Timor – The Fairytale Island

Page 1

“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

Author Jorge Santos

Grand opening 2017.October.01, at 4:00pm

Opening hours Monday to Sunday: 9:00am to 8:00pm

Informations

239 833 617; timorailhafeiticeira@gmail.com

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

1 - “Dawn at the gates of Dili”

The day starts at around 6:00 am. About 10 km east of Dili, Hera immerses us in a stunning landscape of sea, flatland and hills. The mountains are green or red, depending on the rainy or dry season. The sea and sky, usually blue, are painted in various warm colors at sunrise. At the same time, the sea accompanies this dance of colors and life becomes visible, with the departure of the fishermen early risers who, with their rows or rowing engines, try their luck for a good fishing. In the picture: The sky, which began by adopting turquoise and yellow colors, was transformed into various shades of red and orange. And the sun had not yet risen on the horizon. Place and date: Hera, May/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 30 mm; F/11; 1/40 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

2 - “Sunrise with fog”

Gleno is a settlement built during the Indonesian occupation in the valley that gave it its name. It belongs to the district of Ermera and is situated at about 40 km from the capital. On the way to Gleno, we can see the enormous economic potential of the region, thanks to its microclimate. In addition to other quality agricultural products, coffee has a permanent presence. At dawn, as the sun does not warm up and dissipate the humidity of the air, the mist gives a light that allows the passer to live the atmosphere of a dream scenario. There, the shapes emerge and gain form and color as they approach. In the picture: It is Sunday, on a slope covered by the thick layer of fog that still invades the valley and the lower part of the mountains. Place and date: Gleno, May/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 52 mm; F/20; 1/400 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

3 - “Day is born in the Tata Mai Lau mountain range”

Timor-Leste occupies an area of over 15,000 km2. In addition to the lagoons, valleys and flatlands, the great mountainous relief is constant in the Timorese landscape. Throughout the territory, more than 40 peaks with an altitude of over 2,000 meters are identified (Source: peakery.com). In the picture: View from the middle of the slope of Mount Ramelau. Place and date: Hato Builico, November/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 200 mm; F/6.3; 1/2000 seconds; ISO 100. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

4 - “Closer to the sky”

Located in the center of the territory, the Tatamailau mountain range is about 100 km from the capital. It's a 6-hour drive on an all-terrain road that winds its way up the slopes. Arriving in Hato-Builico, district of Ainaro, we settled on one of the existing inns and on the following day we started the climb to Mount Ramelau (Foho Tatamailau), the highest in Timor-Leste. The walking tour lasts almost 3 hours and is led by local guides who, wearing slippers and with no need to drink any water during the climb, travel the trail with great agility and without any manifestation of tiredness. Groceries and field material are transported by the hikers or on a kuda (small native horse) that is possible to rent in the village. At 2986 meters above sea level, Fogo Tatamailau is the highest peak in the territory of Timor-Leste and was once the highest point in the entire "Portuguese empire". In the picture: Moment of rest, contemplation or meditation. At the peak, the achievement of the goal and the grandeur of the landscape allow for a double sensation: insignificance of being and possession of the "world at one’s feet". Place and date: Foho Tatamailau, November/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 63 mm; F/10; 1/320 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

5 - “The green and silver mantle”

Part of the territory of Timor-Leste, Oé-Cusse is an enclave located in the western half of the island, belonging to Indonesia. The first Portuguese to arrive in Timor in 1515 docked his boat in this area, at the beach of Lifau. In the landscape of Oé-Cusse the green of the mountainous wall and the valleys of rice fields and other agricultural plantations predominate, flourishing thanks to the exceptional humidity that remains here, during most of the year. The time needed to reach this territory varies according to the transportation used and the financial availability. By boat, the trip requires more than eight hours, by plane it is possible to travel in half an hour. In the picture: Rice field in a valley in Oecusse. Place and date: Oé-Cusse, February/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 162 mm; F/11; 1/320 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

6 - “Community tourism in the valley”

In between the cities of Díli and Aileu, a secondary road leads to a village raised around a valley. The color variation that occurs in this space throughout the year is reason enough to visit more than once. Here we can find buffaloes and horses, birds of prey and other webbed birds, in a lush or totally arid landscape. A small puddle, in the dry season, becomes, in the rainy season, an enormous lake surrounded by a huge rice field. On one of the slopes, a small complex was built for community-based tourism. The accommodation is intended for a segment of tourists who wish to rest in contact with nature and be involved in the agricultural activity that develops in this region. In the picture: Small part of the landscape that can be seen, from the Seloi community tourism enterprise. Place and date: Seloi Kraik, June/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 16 mm; F/11; 1/800 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

7 - “Coffee”

A product recognized for its quality throughout the world, the coffee of Timor has an important economic role for a substantial part of the Timorese population. The coffee plant grows on the slopes in the shade of the Madre del Cacao and helps prevent the erosion of the land. The fruit is harvested, peeled and dried by the community, and then sold to those who will roast, pack and put it on the market. In 2012, the genetic identification of the original plant species of the coffee of Timor was found. Initially green, the coffee fruit adopts shades of purple, red and orange. The dry grain is yellowish in tone. The known colors of the grain, brown or black, are obtained after roasting. In the picture: The coffee, still green fruit. Place and date: Gleno, April/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 300 mm; F/6.3; 1/40 seconds; ISO 400. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

8 - “Lafaek, the grandfather”

Legend has it that the island of Timor was born of the deth, by fatigue, of a giant crocodile. Some clippings of the landscape of the country, similar to the head of the reptile, seem to prove this narrative. For the people, the Lafaek (crocodile, in Tetum) is the grandfather, respected for his longevity, who only gathers life to those who have disturbed the balance of things. The Lafaek is, thus, the mythical figure of reference of Timorese culture. The increase in the number of sightings in more densely populated areas and the growing number of specimens of a non-autochthonous species originating in Australia are of growing concern. In the picture: A wild crocodile strolls in front of the Government Palace in Dili. Place and date: Díli, December/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 173 mm; F/7.1; 1/320 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

9 - “The pelicans flight”

Tasi Tolu, at the gates of Dili, on the western side, owes its name to the fact that they are three (tolu) lagoons (tasi). During the rainy season, the three unite and form a single one. The interest of this place has playful, natural and historical reasons. This is one of the favorite areas for the population to do their shopping and stroll during weekends. It is one of the places where you can watch the concentration of diverse birds in search of the food that abounds in these waters and in the sea, less than 100 meters from there. It is also a place of remembrance of those who witnessed cruel times, but nourished the hope of peace, during the visit of Pope John Paul II to the territory. In Timor-Leste, places like this are the tomb of many anonymous dead at the hands of the Indonesian occupier. A few miles away, on the way to Maubara, another lake still holds, in its mantle, an indeterminate number of bodies launched in after the executions of civilians.

In the picture: The flight of a flock of pelicans in Tasi Tolu, at the gates of Dili. Place and date: Tasi Tolu, December/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 238 mm; F/8; 1/1250 seconds; ISO 400. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

10 - “The dance of the ancestors”

Timorese traditional culture has animistic references that are revealed in community activities and the social roles of individuals. It is also seen in the various dances performed by all the kingdoms that constitute the ethnic and cultural mosaic of the country. As for the costume, tais mane (men) and tais feto (women) predominate. In traditional ceremonies, it is often seen that men wear the kaibauk, a metal moon over a headscarf. The largest and most ornate moon belongs to the traditional liurai or king. In addition, they wield the surik (sword) and the chest sport the belak (metallic disc). Around the arm, they wear a metal bracelet, a lokum, and a salenda on the shoulder. Women wear kaibauk (adornment representative of the moon), sasuit (wide-toothed comb), mortene (collar) to the chest, kelui (metal bracelet) on the forearm, a white cloth at the waist and a salenda on their shoulders. In the picture: Traditional dance at the Xanana Gusmão Cultural Center in Dili. Place and date: Díli, June/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; Canon EF90-300mm F/4.5-5.6 USM; 90 mm; F/4.5; 1/125 seconds; ISO 100. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

11 - “The monkey and its owner”

Along with a great variety and wealth of trees and plants, Timorese fauna is also diverse and of great beauty. The extent of its variety is not yet fully known. More than two hundred species of birds are identified, most of which are resident. Buffaloes, deer, monkeys, crocodiles, tokens, snakes and bats are just a few examples of what we can also find on land. On the sea, it is not difficult to spot whales, dolphins, fish of various colors, sizes and shapes, corals and algae of different types. The proximity of some of these animals to humans is frequent and can be seen with the frequency with which we can see, for example, crocodiles, deer and monkeys in their wild state or in captivity. The animist tradition has helped respect and protect nature in this country and recently an area of Ataúro was considered by the scientific community as the place where Earth's greatest biodiversity is concentrated. In the picture: Initially aggressive to the photographer, he showed, then, on the owner's lap, complete indifference. Place and date: Díli, April/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; Canon S18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 IS STM; 44 mm; F/8; 1/200 seconds; ISO 400. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

12 - “Feto”

Tradition determined that only men had access to the statute of power. Women (“feto”, in tetum) belonged to the man who had paid for her the barlaque demanded by her family. Women was responsible for taking care of their children and dealing with household chores. At the end of the 20th century, women appeared in the markets where they marketed their agricultural products. Even today, this is still happening in some regions of the country and in some segments of the population. However, change is occurring in society, with girls' almost universal access to education, the sharing of roles within families, the reduction of the number of children per couple, etc. Nowadays, we often find women working in commerce, crafts, police, armed forces, domestic services, politics, the government... In the picture: Female seller in Taibessi. Place and date: Taibessi, May/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; Canon EF90-300mm F/4.5-5.6 USM; 155 mm; F/5; 1/200 seconds; ISO 640. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

13 - “The fish boy”

Timorese children have, from an early age, responsibilities within the family: to fetch water, to clean the house, to take care of the clothes, to take care of the youngest children, to participate in family activities... these are tasks that belong to them in pair with the school life. However, despite the many responsibilities, each of these children have, their smiles are constant and contagious. In the picture: Boy of Manatuto, during preparation of freshly arrived fish from the sea. Place and date: Manatuto, December/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 141 mm; F/6.3; 1/25 seconds; ISO 100. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

14 - “The bridge is a passage…”

The current roads and bridges in Timor-Leste already allow comfortable and relatively fast travel between various parts of the country. The days when roads were only used by jeeps and motorbikes is, day after day, a situation of the past. In the picture: The usual traffic of a bridge in Maliana, where it is frequent to see people and vehicles crossing. Place and date: Maliana, January/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 300 mm; F/11; 1/320 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

15 - “Jaco”

Some people consider this the most beautiful beach in the world. It is a place of extreme beauty, clear and warm waters, white sand, silence, peace. The fauna and flora, easily visible to anyone in these waters, also make the island of Jaco a place to visit. Only the children of this region can stay overnight, a tradition that the fishermen responsible for the transport of the visitors enforce.

In the picture: Just arrived in Jaco, on the boat that returns to Tutuala. Place and date: Jaco, May/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 17 mm; F/13; 1/500 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

16 - “Starfish”

The warm and calm waters of the north coast of Timor-Leste reveal to us all its wealth during one’s first steps in, even before the first dive. Equipped with a wide area of coral, transparent waters allow us to observe the enormous biodiversity in plants and animals. Walking from the beach until the bottom of the sea, everything is possible to observe: pigs, goats, cows and buffalos, birds of various species, crustaceans, colorful fishes, sea stars, octopuses, turtles... In the picture: One of the numerous species of starfish that can be found in Timor-Leste. Place and date: One dollar beach, February/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 63 mm; F/11; 1/250 seconds; ISO 100. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

17 - “Fishing at sunset”

Small-scale fishing is, for many families, an important source of income. As a result, boulders and other fishing boats can be seen along the coast and on the sands of Timor-Leste's beaches. The sale of the fish is done in places intended for this purpose, but also near the beaches, exposing the fish or carrying it hanging on the shoulder on wooden supports. In the picture: Fishermen prepare to start their turn of artisanal fishing. Place and date: Metiaut, July/2016. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 133 mm; F/11; 1/60 seconds; ISO 100. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

18 - “Flaming end of day”

In Timor-Leste, the day comes to an end at around 6:30 p.m. The sun departs in a variety of colors and designs. And every day the show is different. Next to the bay of Dili, there is always someone resting before returning home after a day of work. In the picture: The sky ripples in tones of fire, as if radiating from the mountains of Ataúro. Place and date: Díli, july/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; Canon S18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 IS STM; 18 mm; F/6.3; 1/30 seconds; ISO 200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

19 - “Dusk in the Areia Branca (White Sand)”

The Areia Branca Beach is located a few kilometers from the center of Díli. A place to stroll, to meet family and friends, to party and to rest, it is through Areia Branca that one arrives at Cristo Rei. The homecoming is gradually done by those who have chosen the sun and the sea as the destination of one’s day of leisure. Therefore, the sunset happens in silence, only accompanied by the sound of the sea and the refreshing taste of coconut water. In the picture: View of a sunset under a cloud ceiling at the Areia Branca Beach. Place and date: Areia Branca, May/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; Canon S18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 IS STM; 26 mm; F/25; 1/30 seconds; ISO 400. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

20 - “For the dead that were set free”

On November 12, 1991, a peaceful courtroom honoring a young man shot down two weeks earlier in a contest against the Indonesian occupation is barbarously stopped in front of the Santa Cruz Cemetery. The images taken by the British journalist, Max Stahl, showed the violence of the military and the panic of the survivors inside the cemetery where they had taken refuge. Days later, these images clandestinely left the territory and awakened the world to the reality lived in Timor-Leste, in the decade and a half of Indonesian occupation. It is estimated that about 300 people have died and that many have been injured. The number of missing people was also around three hundred. On this date, Timor-Leste annually honors the victims of the massacre and commemorates its National Youth Day. In the picture: Candles lit all night long, in honor of the victims of Santa Cruz. Place and date: Díli, November/2015. Technical specifications: Canon EOS 700D; TAMRON 16-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD B016; 24 mm; F/4; 1/40 seconds; ISO 3200. Source page: Timor – a ilha feiticeira Author: Jorge Santos (JrgSnts.com)

Copyright © 2017, Jorge Santos, All rights reserved.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


“TIMOR – THE FAIRYTALE ISLAND” (photographic exhibition)

The author

Foto de João Paulo Redondo

Jorge Santos was born in Lisbon in 1964. In 1967, he traveled with his mother to Timor, where his father was serving in the military. He remained in Dili until 1969, the year his family moved to the interior, where the father, newly admitted in the cadres of the Portuguese colonial administration, was placed. Of all the presence in Timor, the author kept in his memory his experiences, people, spaces, cultural references and contact with nature. When, in 1973, he moved with his family to Mozambique, the strong connection to Timor intensified with the great desire of returning to the island of his childhood, his brother's birthplace. In 1974 he returned to Portugal where he lived until 2015, the year he returned to Timor, his "land of soul", after accepting an invitation to teach at the Portuguese School Ruy Cinatti. The author's interest in photography is attributed by him to what he saw his father do in the years during which he accompanied him in Timor and Mozambique. Considered by itself as a simple hobby, images of it were recently published in Lusa (Portuguese news agency), SAPO Timor Leste and AICEP articles. His love for image, communication and his lifelong passion for Timor led him to create the "Timor – a ilha feiticeira" page, a virtual space where he often shares some of the thousands of moments he has registered under the name 'Jrgsnts photo'.

Café Santa Cruz 1 – 29 october Coimbra, 2017


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