LONDON FASHION GUIDE 2015
WHY IS LONDON FASHION JUST THE BEST? There’s no denying it, if you’re looking for the freshest, most creative and talented designers there’s no need to look any further than London. Neatly placed inbetween the fellow fashion capitals, Milan, New York and Paris - with it’s reputation of breaking the mould and nurturing its young creatives, there’s a reason why London stands out from the rest. The London Fashion Guide 2015 is here to give you all the latest info so you can sail around the ol’ fashion week this season and be at the forefront of new trends and talent. Have your coconut water at the ready!
Ellie Burns
LONDON SEPTEMBER 2015 london fashion week
18-22nd September Brewer Street Carpark, soho
vogue/the designer fashion fund NEW GEN 18-22nd September Brewer Street Carpark, Soho
london designers in paris/ny/ milan international fashion showcase 18-22nd September Brewer Street Carpark, Soho
estethica 18-22nd September
fashion east 19th September 12:30-2:30 Old Truman Brewery
fashion scout 18-22nd September Freemasons’ Hall, Cov Garden
lfw weekend 24-27th September Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea
the designer showrooms 18-22nd September Brewer Street Car Park, Soho
A creative industry contributing £21 billion to the UK Economy, the British Fashion Council is commited to growing this sector. Supporting and growing British fashion talent, the coucil’s aim is to promote them to a global audience. Through business, education, investment, reputation, digital and innovation the British Fashion Council will reposition British fashion within the gobal fashion economy.
Founded: 6 January 1983 Somerset House, South Wing, Strand, London WC2R 1LA chaired: Natalie Massenet MBE (@NataPorter) Aiming to promote British fashion globally, the non-profit trade group are key in organising London Fashion Week, London Collection Mens and many other key British fashion events. They also believe in supporting the next generation of designers by supporting Higher Education helping designers from the likes of Henry Holland to Felder Felder. Sponsors also include Topshop, Mercedez-Benz and Toni & Guy. There are 78 shows scheduled this season and many also non scheduled.
House Of Holland Designing with a ‘London-girl’ aesthetic in mind, House of Holland was created by Henry Holland in 2006. Beginning by creating irrelevant slogan tee’s and showing with Fashion East. Now in the brand’s 13th season, they are now supported internationally and have since released their first Menswear collection at LCM in 2015. With their bright colours, funky prints but cool style, House of Holland enables their girl to ‘wear labels without letting them wear her’.
show: 19th September 19:00 www.houseofholland.co.uk press: laura.froud@tcs-uk.net
House Of Holland Belstaff Belstaff is a global British luxury brand founded in 1924 and is well-known for embracing its heritage and spirit for adventure. Combining approachable luxury with a modern lifestyle, the brand is well known for its classic belted, 4 pocket jacket and the innovation of water resistant wax cotton.
show: 21st September 18:30 w w w . b e l s t a f f . c o m press: holly.robinson@belstaff.com
Felder Felder German-born and London based twins Daniela and Annette Felder founded Felder Felder whilst studying at Central Saint Martins in 2006. Since, they have won many awards from New Faces to the British Fashion Awards. Focusing on music, Felder Felder combine fashion, music and art creating an innovative lifestyle portrayed in their garments. Showing many different sides, they are known for creating elegance with an edge a cool and effortless look.
show: 18th September 12:00 www.felderfelder.com press:rose@5thhousepr.com
Bora Aksu Bora Aksu is a London based Turkish designer and graduated from Central St Martin’s in 2002. He has received many awards and sponsorships enabling him to make his first off-schedule show at London Fashion Week in 2003. With his romantic style and a darker twist showing elegance, intrigue and seduction - Bora Aksu has created a signature style.
show: 18th September 13:00 w w w . b o r a a k s u . c o m antony@antwaller.com
Eudon Choi Eudon Choi is a Korean designer working in London after attending the Royal College of Art. With his strong asymmetric style, collared shirts and popular outerwear pieces, it’s clear to see how he believes that clothing is personal architecture with his use of cuts and fabric.
show: 18th September 14:00 w w w . e u d o n c h o i . c o m press:fiona@devetta.com
Launched in September 2008 by BFC Chairman Harold Tillman, the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund provides one British based designer with ÂŁ200,000. Consequently assisting the talent with the potential for commercial growth to make the transition to a global fashion brand. Supported by Burberry, Debenhams, Harrods, Paul Smith, Topshop and Vogue, since beginnning winners include Christopher Kane (2011) and Jonathan Saunders (2012).
Founded: September 2008 Somerset House, South Wing, Strand, London WC2R 1LA chaired: Alexandra Shulman
Mary Katrantzou THE WINNER
Mary Katrantzou was launched in 2008 and is well known for their use of digital print building a visual language, definining textile innovation. The brand has since grown offering ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewellery and is sold internationally. The strong and appealing identity of her work enabled her to win the prize.
show: 20th September 18:00 www.marykatrantzou.com p r e s s : l u c y . j o n e s @ k a r l a o t t o . c o m
Holly Fulton Holly Fulton is a womenswear and accessories designer living in London. Promoting modern relaxed luxury with an attention to detail embellishments and quirks, she creates strong unified looks. Her first collection was released in February 2009 after gaining a Masters at the Royal College of Art and winning many awards. She combines art deco lines, pop art painting and psychedelic illustration combined for ‘a confident woman, not afraid of adventure, or indeed attention’.
show: 19th September 13:00 www.hollyfulton.com press:carly@wearevillage.com
Michael van der Ham Graduating from Central Saint Martin’s, Dutch born Michael Van Der Ham is inspired by Andy Warhol and known for his multi fabrics and modern shapes. Elegant and delicate, he combines extravagant shaped coats with voluminous sleeves. With the purple and ink shades mainly used in his gowns, devore velvet and printed silk, his signature has been refined.
www.michaelvanderham.com
Emilia Wickstead Emilia Wickstead is a New Zealand born, Central Saint Martin’s graduate. Originally known as a made-tomeasure atelier, she’s now known for her seasonal ready-to-wear collections. Launching her label in 2008, her first season at London Fashion Week in 2012 and has been nominated for many awards. Renowned for her precisely cut coats, sharply pleated dresses and feminine silhouettes - combined with her use of soft colours, her signature is elegant and feminine.
show: 19th September 15:00 www.emiliawickstead.com press:rachel@tcs-uk.net
Mother of Pearl Creative Director Amy Powney has the Mother of Pearl signature refined. Closely collborating with an artist each season to create prints for the collection and using colours that sit perfectly with the collection, a sport-luxe aesthetic has been created inspired by the founders lifestyle. Combined with silhouettes and detailing, the sportswear aesthetic is mixed with luxury fabrics.
show: 19th September 09:00 www.motherofpearl.co.uk p r e s s : f i o n a @ m o t h e r o f p e a r l . c o . u k
Osman Yousefzada Since beginning in 2007,Osman Yousefzada is known for his unique architectural aesthetic and strong sculptural designns. Consequently combining the world of both abstract art and fashion, his flattering designs have established his work. Graduating from Central Saint Martin’s, he went on to launch his own label and has since won many awards thanks to his clean forms and precise tailoring.
show: 21st September 2015 www.osmanstudio.com press:sophie@bpcm.com
Sophia Webster Sophia Webster released her first footwear collection in 2013 after working as a design assistant to Nicholas Kirkwood. Whilst combining commercial with a unique, sophisticated and modern approach, she has been continually applauded winning many awards. With her classic Coco Pump showcasing the flamingo detail at the back of the heel in her SS14 collection, the image is now iconic within the brand.
show: 20th September 12:30-14:30 www.sophiawebster.co.uk press:leigh.brill@ starworksgroup.com
One of the most internationally recognised scheme to showcase and promote new designer talent, New Generation was created in 1993 by the British Fashion Council. Sponsored by Topshop in 2001, NEWGEN offers designers support towards their show costs and presentation funding introducing the new talent to influential press and buyers from around the world Since commencing, NEWGEN has supported the likes of Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff.
Founded: 1993 Somerset House, South Wing, Strand, London WC2R 1LA chaired: Sarah Mower
1205
After studying womenswear at Central Saint Martins and training as an atelier and working on Savile Row, Paula Gerbase brand was founded in 2010. Focusing on the cut, fabric and proportion, 1205 emphasises traditional craftsmanship whilst being influences by geometry and the elegance of nature.
show: 19th September 17:00 w w w . 1 2 0 5 . e u press:1205@tcs-uk.net
Ashley Williams Based in London, Ashley Williams graduated in 2012 and showed her first collection in February 2013 before presenting her first solo runway show in 2015. Worn by the likes of Georgia May Jagger, Ashley Williams’ 90s graphics are worn by all the cool girls along with fur bucket hats, pvc dresses and slogan jumpers.
show: 22nd September 09:00 www.ashleywilliamslondon.com p r e s s : a s h l e y w i l liams@framenoir.com
Danielle Romeril Graduating from the womenswear course at the Royal College of Art in 2010, Irish designer Danielle Romeril set up her label in 2012. Considered vibrant, youthful yet relaxed with a considered aesthetic,Romeril believes in an innovative and fresh approach to contemporary design using extraordinary fabric combinations and surface details.
show: 20th September 14:30-16:30 www.danielleromeril.com press:stephen@thewolves-london.com-
Faustine Steinmetz After completing her masters at Central Saint Martines and working for the likes of Jeremy Scott and Henrik Vibskov, the Parisian born designer set up her label in 2013. Made in line with her belief in craftsmanship over trends, the brand spin, dye and weave all their own fabrics reproducing handmade iconic pieces.
show: 19th September 10:30-12:30 www.faustinesteinmetz.com press:sabah.khan@purplepr.com
Marta Jakubowski Graduating with an MA from the Royal College of Art in 2014 and working with the likes of Alexander Wang and Jonathan Saunders, Jakubowski then set up her own label.
p r e s s : I N F O @ M A R T A J A K U B O W S K I . C O M
Sadie Williams Known for mixing odd combinations to create modern and playful work, Williams refined her style and aesthetic after graduating in 2013 and after working with the likes of J W Anderson and Marc Jacobs.
p r e s s : o u a r d a @ t o t e m f a s h i o n . c o . u k
Molly Goddard Beginning by specialising in traditional hand-craft techniques from hand pleating, smocking and crocheting, Molly Goddard’s work portrays ideas of nostalgia and coming of age - taking inspiration from party dresses and your best Sunday clothes. Creating clothes that are both delicate and fragile, her designs show a sense of ‘charming awkwardness’ thanks to her silhouettes and fabric combinations
show: 18th September 15:30-17:30 www.mollygoddard.com press:daisy@dh-pr.com
Ryan Lo With romantic fantasy being a theme throughout all of Ryan Lo’s work, drawing inspiration from everything from pop culture to childhood nostalgia, his craft is self taught from watching Youtube Tutorials. His rule breaking style has followed him through to launching his own label. Creating an unexpected modern wardrobe, he combines his love for ‘all things dreamy’ with his unconventiaonal DIY approach.
show: 22nd September 17:00 w w w . r y a n l o . c o . u k press:adam@ryanlo.co.uk
WHICH BRITISH DESIGNERS ARE NOT SHOWING IN LONDON? Titled to
see
‘The why
Great our
British
own
Invasion’,
British
it’s
Designers
easy
are
go-
ing down a storm on the otherside of the globe. Known for our innovation, creativity and original ideas, British designers are like no others.
The
likes
of
J.W.
Anderson
and
Christopher
Kane have already been put on the Eurostar after
LVMH
took
stakes
in
the
designers.
Mean-
while,Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham have made their fashion homes in Paris and New York.
Already this year, Brit menswear designers Astrid Andersen, Bobby Abley and KTZ have crossed the pond to fly the British flag at Milk Studios. Lulu Kennedy, found of Fashion East believes that
‘the British
take is about the future, about what we want to see next’ which is what makes us stand out from others.
But where’s the line between promoting
us around
the world to staying put and bring the buyers/press to London and therefore showcase more of our talent?
Created of
to
being
celebrate
an
London’s
international
position
fashion
city
and
reputation
and
specialis-
ing in nurturing emerging talent, the International Fashion Showcase was launched by the British Fashion Council.
Taking place during London Fashion Week, this year 110 designers from 24 countries over 4 continents will exhibit.
Next in Line is a new platform introduced national
Fashion
portunity ion
to
showcase
institutions
countries,
Showcase
they
to
giving
their
talent.
represent
will
all
10
be
emerging
for the Inter-
designers Nominated talent
displaying
the
op-
by
fash-
from
their
their
work.
Founded: 2012 Somerset House, South Wing, Strand, London WC2R 1LA chaired: Sarah Mower, Alistair O’Neill, Anders Christian Madsen of iD Magazine.
LENA MARTORELLO ARGENTINA
An embroiderer from Buenos Aires uses ancient Japanese techniques of dying, embroidery and patchwork to create garments made from linen, silk and denim to create different surfaces and recreate paintings.
www.lenamartorello.com
Sid Neigum CANADA
After training in New York, Sid Neigum’s work is stocked all over the world. He believes in creating garments that are both experimental and wearable - from leather dresses to daring silhouettes.
w w w . s i d n e i g u m . c o m
ZURITA DESIGN CHILE
The contemporary Chilean brand believes in being commited to the environment and using traditional craft skills to create new luxury garments. By combining contemporary design with traditional crafts, the brand gives a new meaning to the concept of luxury.
w w w . z u r i t a . c o
LIUCIJA KVASYTE LITHUANIA
With her latest collection raising issues of the relationship between parents and conserving natural heritage, she uses old fabrics from fur to sequin embroidered fabrics. After returning from an internship in Iceland, she has since won many awards for her work.
w w w . l i u c i j a k v a s y t e . b l o g s p o t . c o m
Siham El Amri MOROCCO
Nominated and supported by the Moroccan Association of Fashion Designers, Siham El Amri is a menswear brand created for ‘the modern itellectual dandy’
Anouk Van Klaveren NETHERLANDS
After graduating from the Royal Academy of Arts, The Netherlands in 2013, Klaveren has since created her own label and studio. Portraying a love/hate relationship with beauty in a humorous way, she believes in creating iconic garments that are from an unexpected context.
www.anoukvanklaveren.com
Hamza Bokhari PAKISTAN
Known for combining luxe fur with vibrant ethnic beading, Hamza Bokhari graduated from the Pakistan Institue of Fashion and Design in 2012 and has won many awards for his graduate collection. He is now the creative director of ethnic fashion brand ‘Jeem’.
w w w . h a m z a b o k h a r i . c o m
Rotsaniyom
THAILAND (WHITE LABEL) Rotsaniyom blend cultures, value and understanding in a unique way. Their collections thrive on the freshness of difference and are seen as experimental as they use different materials.
www.rotsaniyom.com
Adrian Foster TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO
A label created to inspire, refine and empower and ‘eclectic generation of women’. Adrian Foster’s women’s resort wear brand was created in 2013. Inspired by rich culture, art and the Caribbean lifestyle, he mixes art and fashion to create a clean, classic, contemporary style.
@officiallyadrianfoster
Established by Lulu Kennedy in The Old Truman Brewery in 2000, the non-profit organisation is designed to nurture and look after emerging young designers in the early stages of their career. Each season, three womenswear and three menswear designers are given the opportunity to present at London Fashion Week to press and buyers. Receiving a bursary, venue and complete catwalk -
this gives them the opportunity to
reach out to the fashion industry and become established.
Carefully selected by a panel of industry experts , the likes of Holly Fulton, Jonathan Saunders, House of Holland and Meadham Kirchhoff have all benefited from the Fashion East organisation.
Founded: 2000 91 brick lane, london, e1 6ql chaired: The Old Truman Brewery w
w
w
.
f
a
s
h
i
o
n
e
a
s
t
.
c
o
.
u
k
CAITLIN PRICE A Central Saint Martins’ MA graduate known for the luxe satin tracksuits she combines luxury with sportswear.
www.caitlin-price.co.uk p r e s s : p r e s s @ c a i t l i n - p r i c e . c o . u k
Richard Malone After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2014, he has since won many awards. Known for up-cycling fabrics that have then been hand draped, cut and sewn - he weaves directionality and sustainability into his label.
w w w . n o t j u s t a l a b e l . c o m / d esigner/richard-malone
This Is The Uniform Exploring rules of dress, stereotype, perception and context - the collection draws attention to our relationship with clothing. Although conceptual, the quality and functionality of the garment is still valued.
www.thisistheuniform.com p r e s s : p r e s s @ t h i s i s t h e u n i f o r m . c o m
The largest independent showcase in the UK for supporting emerging and established design talent during London Fashion Week, Fashion Scout is now celebrating its 19th year.
Responsible
for
supporting
Eudon Choi, Pam Hogg
the
likes
of
Felder
Felder,
and Craig Lawrence - the organisa-
tion now provide platforms to promote in Paris and Kiev. Love
by
top
influences
and
buyers
from
Anna
Wintour
to
Suzy Menkes, Fashion Scout is recognised globally and has a reputation of leading the up and coming fashion scene.
Founded: 1996 Freemasons’ Hall, 60 Great Queen Street, London, WC2B 5AZ
w
w
w
.
f
a
s
h
i
o
n
s
c
o
u
t
.
c
o
M
Anita Hirlekar
The designer born in Iceland recently graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA Textiles course. After having her MA collection shown at London Fashion Week in AW 2014, her ‘artistic glamour’ whilst combining ‘modern craft’ is what makes her stand out. Her work has been featured in Vogue, Elle and iD.
www.anitahirlekar.tumblr.com
J S Shin
Known for combining creativity with wearability, he creates contemporary womenswear clothing. From experimenting with fabrics and silhouettes, he graduated from the London College of Fashion this year.
www.notjustalabel. com/designer/j-s-shin
Leaf Xia
Based in New York, the young Chinese fashion designer studied in Parson, New School of Design. Known for her focus on colours, prints and silhouettes she uses collage to create her unique designs.
www.leafxiastudio.com
Typical Freaks
The bold, colourful conceptual brand is designed by 2 fashion graduates. Mixing humour with craftsmanship, their fashion statement draws on diverse thematic inspiration. Celebrating creativity, many of their garments are painted and printed by hand.
w w w . t y p i c a l freaks.bigcartel.com
F R I D AY 1 8 T H – T U E S D SEPTEMBER 2015 PROVISIONAL SCH E DU LE
LO N D O N FA S H I O N W
T H U R S D AY 1 7 T H
S AT U R D AY 1 9 T H
18:30 21:30
10.00 11.00
YO UJ IA J I N
11.30
SABINNA
F R I D AY 1 8 T H
12.30
ROHMIR
12:30
JAMIE WEI HUANG
13.30
J U DY W U
13.30
ANGEL CHEN
14.30
JAMES KELL
14.30
GYO Y U N I K I M C H O E
16.30
SWEDISH SC
15.30
ROBERTS | WOOD
1 7. 3 0
M AYA - HOU
16.30
LULU LIU
18:30
CCUOCO
1 7. 3 0
ASHLEY ISHAM
19.30
ZEYNEP KA
18.30
O N E S T O WAT C H : A N I TA H I R L E K A R JS SHIN LEAF XIA TYPICAL FREAKS
19.30
PA M H O G G
ART & MAKEUP - THE SHOW
EXHIBITION DESIGNERS
W W W. FA S H I O N - S C O U T. C O . U K
ALEXANDRA NAM A N I TA H I R L E K A R C AITLI N C H A R LE S -J O N E S G F H AW T H O R N E J AY B R I G G S
@ FA S H I O N S CO U T
JS SHIN K AT I E R O B E R T S - W O O D K R A S I M I R A S T OY N E VA LEAF XIA NICOL A BRINDLE
@ FA S H I O N S CO U T LO N D O
D AY 2 2 N D
EEK
FA S H I O N S CO U T FREEMASONS’ HALL 6 0 G R E AT Q U E E N S T R E E T WC2B 5AZ
S U N D AY 2 0 T H 11.30
APU JAN
12.00 1 7. 0 0
G R A D U AT E S H O W C A S E
12.30
N I R O WA N G
15.30
MINNAN HUI
LY
18.30
T E R E S I TA O R I L L A C
CHOOL OF TEXTILES
19.30
M I N P I K I TA
USE OF MIDDLE EAST & ASIA
M O N D AY 2 1 S T R TA L
16.30
L’ A M I T I E
18.37
C J YA O
T U E S D AY 2 2 N D
MEHLE SIRIPIRUN TYPICAL FREAKS VEK TOR BERLIN
ON
# FA S H I O N S CO U T S S 1 6
14.30
M A R K O M I TA N O V S K I
16.30
B E L G R A D E FA S H I O N W E E K S H O W C A S E
19.00
FA D
F R I D AY 1 8 T H - S U N D AY 2 0 T H 10.00 - 19.00
A retail focused, luxury fashion event taking place as soon as the official London Fashion Week is over, the event gives the public the chance to explore the life of the fashion insider.
Now in its 30th year, the event collaborates with 150
brands.
Featuring
an
exclusive
catwalk
over
featur-
ing London Fashion Week designers and many trend presentations ion
Weekend
and
industry is
the
discussions,
ultimate
fashion
London
Fash-
lover’s
event.
Organised by the British Fashion Council and attracting 32,000 visitors a year, a bridge is built between highend designer and it’s consumers. Attendees are able to shop designer for exclusive prices . Sponsorships include Marks & Spencer, Toni & Guy, Maybelline and
Sunglass Hut.
24-27 September 2015 saatchi gallery, london w w w . l o n d o n f a s h i o n w e e k e n d . c o . u k
With over 180 designers showcasing their SS16 collections, a floor of Brewer Street Car Park enables them to promote their designs. From Ready-To-Wear, shoes, bags and accessories, buyers and press are able to easily browse new collections This year, the showrooms will feature John Smedley , Rejina Pyo, Self Portrait and Zandra Rhodes for the first time along side Holly Fulton, Jamie Wei Huang and Georgie Hardinge. NEWGEN
will
be
supporting
whilst
Headonism
2015,
the
emerging BFC’s
talent
initiative
millinery
initiative
will present Emma Yeo, Harvy Santos, Keely Hunter and Sophie Beale. Rock Vault, supporting fine jewellers
will
present
MBE.
This ed
in
a
season, with
lowing
space
London
womenswear
buyers
co-curated
and
Fashion trade
press
by
Stephen
Week
show, access
have
Scoop to
Webster
colaboratLondon,
both
al-
showrooms.
18-22 September 2015 Brewer Street Car Park, Soho, London www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/Designer-Showrooms w w w . l o n d o n f a s h i o n w e e k . c o m / e v e n t s
LFW STRE
EETSTYLE
On the 18th and 19th of September I spent 2 days working
for
City.
They
a
London were
based
looking
Creative for
a
Agency,
runner
for
ion Week and so I took up for the role. was
My
Beautiful
London
Fash-
Turns out I
a runner for Versus Versace’s first ever runway show.
Taking place in the Bloomsbury Ballroom of Victoria House, over the two days I watched a blank space be completely transformed into a runway and afterparty fit for a Fashion House.
I watched models
flying in from New York for
casting and fittings, seamstresses working over night with rolls of fabric doing alterations, make up artists and hair stylists come in with suitcases full of kit and the Versace team glide in
dressed in head-to-toe black and leather.
Although my role was mainly working on the front desk assigning accreditation to crew, moments before the show I manage to wander backstage. On one side – flashing lights and photographers everywhere, fashion illustrators capturing the moment, last minute touches to make up, seamstresses doing the final stitches and behind me? Donatella Versace just walks past. Insane.
Ashish
Clio Peppiatt
MY FAVOURI Ryan Lo
Mary Benson
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
ITE SHOWS Mary Katrantzou
Molly Goddard
J.W.ANDERSON
MY FAVOURI Gareth Pugh
Topshop Unique
Simone Rocha
ITE SHOWS Thomas Tait
AW16 LONDON FASHION WEEK
19TH-
23RD FEBRUARY 2016