Crochet
Colourful
A collection of 5 easy patterns!
By Julia Crossland
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Hello! Welcome to my Free Crochet Tutorial Book. I thought it would be nice to package up a selection of the tutorials that I’ve created, and to make them easily accessible for you in the form of a little downloadable book! The stitches in the book are all in the USA terminology, but easily adaptable to the British version of crochet stitches (there is a helpful conversion chart below the contents).
Contents: Garden Flower Mobile Phone Pocket
Popcorn Flower Granny Square
Teeny Tiny Heart Bunting
Chunky Little Crocheted Bowl
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Toasty Mitts Arm Warmers
Stitch Conversion: To help those of you that are not familiar with US stitch terminology, I have listed the US names with the British ones alongside to make things easier for you: US
British
Slip Stitch (SS) Single Crochet (SC) Half Double Crochet (HDC) Double Crochet (DC) Triple Crochet(TR) Double Triple Crochet (DTR)
Single Crochet Double Crochet Half Treble Treble Double Treble Treble Treble
I hope you enjoy the patterns! Julia x
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Garden Flower Mobile Phone Pocket
This mobile phone pocket is really easy to make. It's just two stitches ~ chains and single crochet, so if you can do those then you can probably make this in an hour or less.
Choose your yarn. I would suggest something fairly robust like a cotton (I used Rowan Handknit Cotton leftovers) but it's up to you. I used a No. 4 hook and a selection of seven colours which were inspired by my Cath Kidston messenger bag. The phone pocket is made up in stripes which consist of two rows of the same colour yarn in SC stitch.
The Pattern:
1: Measure around your mobile phone. Mine is a HTC and pretty small, so if you have an i-phone you may need extra chains to begin, and extra stripes to fit it height wise. I will be giving the number of stitches that I used for mine, which may suit yours perfectly but do check before you begin. 2: Ch 20 + CH1 3: SC in second stitch from hook. 4: 1SC in each stitch all along the row to the end (20 stitches). Turn for row 2, CH1 then in second stitch from hook, 1SC in each stitch til end of the row. 5: *Finish off and add a new colour yarn 6: Row 3: Hook under 1st stitch of last row, CH1. In same stitch, 1SC then 1SC in each stitch along the row to the end. (20 stitches). Turn crochet piece for row 4, CH1 then 1SC in each stitch along the row to the end (20 stitches)*. Repeat from * (step 5) for the rest of the pocket, until you have a rectangle of stripy crochet that fits just above your mobile phone.
Finish off, sew the edges of the pocket together (right sides facing) with yarn, leaving a space at the top to slide your phone in. Turn the pocket the right way - almost done!
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The flower...you will need to be able to do double crochet clusters (DCC) for this - see below flower tutorial for How To:
To embellish your pocket with a small flower, choose a contrasting yarn. 1: 2: 3: 4:
CH 4 and join with a SS into first stitch *CH3, then 1DCC (see below), then SS into ring*. Repeat from * four more times, and finish off. Sew in ends and then sew the flower to your phone pocket, add buttons to finish.
Double Crochet Cluster stitch: Here is an explanation of how to do this stitch - I hope it makes sense as there aren't any photos!
After doing your CH3, wrap yarn around hook and push hook through ring. Pull yarn through (3 stitches on hook), wrap yarn around hook and pull through 2 stitches (2 stitches left on hook), wrap yarn around hook (3 stitches on hook), push hook through thr ring, wrap yarn around hook and pull through (4 stitches on hook). Wrap yarn around and pull through 2 stitches, wrap yarn around again and pull through remaining 3 stitches on hook. Done.
Popcorn Flower Granny Square
You can use this pattern to make blankets, cushions, bags, scarves...I’ll leave it up to your imagination! Wool used: Rowan pure wool DK
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Hook Size: 4 The Pattern: Ch 4 and join with a SS to make a ring.
Ch 3 1 DC into the ring Ch 1 This is the first cluster. The next cluster stitches are going to be DC2TOG (or sometimes, I think they're called Bobble Stitches) ~ Here is how you do it: Into the ring, do 1 DC as usual, but stop when you have 2 loops left on your hook. Next, yarn over, hook through the ring, pull up another loop (4 loops on the hook), and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook) and then yarn over and pull through remaining 3 loops on hook.
Following this, Ch 1 DC2TOG, Ch 1*; Repeat from the * 6 more times so you have 8 DC2TOG stitches in the ring. Join with a SS to the 3rd stitch in the first chain to finish. Fasten off.
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Your circle should look something like this, if it does and you are happy with it, count up the stitches round the edge and make sure there are 16 in total. Join your next shade of yarn.
Into the first stitch of the ring, hook under and chain 3.
This next part is the Popcorn Stitch. If you aren't sure how to do it, here is how: In the same stitch, DC4 (the chain counts as the first DC stitch here) Next, pull up a loop on the last DC, and take your hook out...don't panic, this is the fun bit!
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Count back 5 stitches (this should take you to the top of the first chain) and insert your hook under the stitch.
This draws the stitch together, secure it with a chain stitch which will sit nicely just at the back. (We are going to do seven more of these, to make a total of 8 popcorn stitches). So, lets just go through it one more time: Into the next stitch, do 1DC Into the next stitch, do 1 Popcorn = 5 DC into same stitch, pull up a loop on last stitch, hook under 1st DC stitch, collect the loop, pull through and secure with 1 chain stitch. Repeat 6 more times until you have 8 popcorns each seperated by 1 DC. To join, make a SS into the 3rd stitch of the very first chain you made. You will discover this has laid down a bit behind the first popcorn stitch, and may take a bit of hunting out...don't mistake it for the chain stitch you made to secure the popcorn stitch.
The picture above is a rough guide to show you where your 3rd chain stitch will be, can you see it, hidden down the bottom there where my hook is shoved through?!. Fasten off.
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And this is how your Popcorn Flower will be looking now you have fastened off! Attach another shade of yarn. This is the part where we start to turn it all into a granny square. Look for the chain stitch you made to secure the popcorn stitches, it will be laying just behind it and these chain stitches are what we are going to crochet into all around the flower.
Hook under the Chain Stitch (where my hook is pointing), and Ch4
Into the same stitch, 3 DC. Ch1 3 DC into next chain behind next popcorn Ch 1 3 DC into next chain behind next popcorn, Ch 2, 3 DC into SAME chain behind same popcorn to form a corner. This should complete your first side.
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Continue your way around the flower, until you have completed the 4 sides with granny stitches. The last stitch will be 2 DC instead of 3, the first chain you made at the beginning of the round counting as the last DC stitch. Join with a SS into the 3rd stitch of the original chain and fasten off.
We're getting there!! It’s starting to look like a granny!! Hurrah! Attach your next shade of yarn, this bit will be plain sailing for most as its literally a case of granny around as usual, starting with a Ch 4 and 3DC into the first space:
I know many of you are familiar with granny squares, but for those of you who aren't, then you are going to be crocheting into the spaces below that you created on the last round of granny stitches. On each row you simply DC 3 into a space and follow with Ch1...and so on until you reach a corner, where you do 3 DC, Ch2, 3 DC all into the same space, and then continue as before.
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When you have finished the 4 sides, you will make just 2 DC into the last space, and join with a SS into the 3rd stitch of the original chain. Fasten off and attach new yarn colour.
This is the final edging round if you want to add it (or feel free to just granny away and run off and make a blanket at this point).
Push your yarn under the first corner stitch next to your yarn, as shown in the picture. Ch 5 (this counts as 3 + 2 = 1 DC stitch + corner) 1 DC into next stitch*; repeat from * until you reach the next corner.
Ch 2 (to make a corner) 1 DC into next stitch as shown above.
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1 DC in next stitch*; repeat from * until you reach end of row, and continue until the 4 sides are completed. SS into 3rd stitch of original chain to finish, and fasten off.
Sew in your ends. Finished.
Teeny Tiny Heart Bunting
Wool used: Rowan Handknit Cotton DK Hook Used: No. 4
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The Pattern: Round 1: Make 4 Chain stitches and join into first chain with a SS (alternatively, make a sliding loop and then as follows): Next, SC 10 times into the middle of the ring as shown below:
Join with a SS into the top of the first SC stitch to finish the round.
Make sure you have 10 stitches to work into for the next round:
Round 2: Next, you are going to do 5 DC into the first stitch, this is going to be the first top curve of your heart and it will look something like this:
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In the following 3 stitches, you need to do 1 DC into each. This is followed by a TR, the bit that will form the pointy part of the heart. For those of you not sure how to do a Treble Crochet, here is a little explanation: Wrap your yarn around your hook Wrap your yarn around your hook Wrap your yarn around your hook Wrap your yarn around your hook Crochet Stitch!! :D
twice and push your hook under the stitch. and pull back through (4 loops on the hook). and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook) again and pull through the remaining 3 loops ~ Voila!! A Treble
By now, your heart should be looking a bit like this:
Into the next 3 stitches, you need to do 1 DC into each. Then work 5 DC together into the following stitch. This makes the second curvy top of the heart. You will see a stitch space (as shown below, where I'm pointing the tip of the hook)...you need to do a SS into this to finish off the heart before securing with a knot.
Round 3: Join your second colour by knotting your new yarn onto the first colour neatly. Start by making 1 CH into the last SS of the previous round.
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To continue with your edging, do 1 Sc into the next stitch. The next 3 stitches all need 2 SC into EACH stitch. Into the next 4 stitches make 1 SC into each.
Then do 3 SC into the following stitch which is the tip of the heart, the 3 SC's will help to make it more pointy shaped.
Working up the opposite side, its a case of reversing the stitch pattern that we've just done. So after doing the 3 SC into the tip of the heart, we need to do do 1SC into the next 4 stitches. Then do 2SC into each of the next 3 stitches. Into the next to last stitch, do 1 SC. The last stitch just requires a little SS to finish, and a wee knot to secure. Be sure to weave in any loose ends at the back! Here is a brief run down of the stitches for you: Round 1: Ch 4, SS to join into 1st chain stitch. 10 SC into centre of ring SS to join into 1st SC stitch. Round 2:
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5 DC into first stitch 1 DC into next 3 stitches 1 TR 1 DC into next 3 stitches 5 DC into next stitch SS to finish into last stitch Round 3: 1 CH into cleavage of heart 1 SC into next stitch 2 SC into each of the next 3 stitches 1 SC into next 4 stitches 3SC into bottom point of heart stitch 1 SC into next 4 stitches 2 SC into each of the next 3 stitches 1 SC into next stitch. Finish by SS into next stitch and secure with a knot.
Making your hearts into Bunting This is really quite easy, and of course the exciting bit that turns all your colourful hearts into actual bunting. All you need to do is know how to chain stitch and slip stitch, and Im guessing if you have got this far with me, then yes, of course you can!! :D I started my chain off with 15 CH stitches, this is the part you can use to tie or attach your bunting to something with. Find the topmost stitch on your heart, and simply SS into it. You might find it a little bit fiddly at first, but you'll soon get the hang of joining the heart to the hanging chain. Here's what it looks like:
Next, CH 4 across and work a SS into the next topmost stitch of the opposite heart top.
I then went on to crochet 7 CH stitches between each heart, but of course you could do more or less depending on the look you want for your bunting.
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And here it is, all finished!
Chunky Little Crocheted Bowl
Wool Used: Sublime Cashmere Merino Silk DK (one ball, 50g approx 86 metres) Hook Used: No.4 and No.10
The Pattern: Round 1: Using the chained yarn as you would ordinary yarn, CH2 and then do 6SC in the second chain from the hook. SS to join (6 stitches) Round 2: 2SC in each stitch around, SS to join (12 stitches)
Round 3: *1SC in SC stitch followed by 2SC in next SC stitch* repeat this 6 times and SS to join (18 stitches)
Round 4: *2SC, followed by 2SC in next SC stitch* repeat this 6 times and SS to join (24 stitches)
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Round 5: *3SC, followed by 2SC in next SC stitch* repeat 6 times and SS to join (30 stitches) Round 6 - 10: 1SC all around in each stitch (30 stitches) SS to join.
Almost finished!! Of course, you can make your bowl smaller by starting to build up the sides from Round 3 or 4 if you prefer. This size fits nicely in the palm of your hand:
The edging: Tie on a contrasting piece of yarn (I used a spare bit of Rowan Handknit DK in white and a No.4 hook).
SS to start, 1SC and 1DC in next stitch followed by *1SS, 1SC, 1DC* in following stitch, repeat around and SS to join when finished.
Toasty Mitts Arm Warmers
Wool Used: Sublime Cashmere Merino Silk DK Hook Used: No.4
The Pattern: First of all, measure your forearm roughly half way up. Mine measured 24cm and you will need to keep a note of this so that you can create a cuff that fits snug (without being too loose) to this length. Make Your Cuff: Chain 10 + 1 (11)
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Push your hook under the 2nd Ch from the hook and single crochet into each stitch along the row until you reach the end (this is a fiddly bit, yes). Ch 1 for turning chain, and turn your crochet around to work the next row. On this row, you are going to crochet a SC into the BACK LOOP of the stitch only. Here is my hook, going under the back loop to show you:
Do a SC into the back loop of each remaining stitch on the row. Ch 1, turn your work and continue, SC into the back loop of each stitch. As your rows grow, you will notice a pretty rib pattern emerging:
When you have crocheted enough rows to meet your arm measurement, you need to join the cuff to form a ring. Turn your crochet work around so that the rows are vertical when you look at them, and push your hook into the topmost corner stitch at the other end of your crochet work to form a ring:
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Join with a SS. Next, we are going to work around the long edge of the cuff with DC stitches. These need to be evenly spaced, and if you study your work you will see a space at the top of each rib indentation, and a stitch roughly at the top of each rib protrusion (if that makes sense, oh I hope it does!) First of all, push your hook under the first stitch on the cuff...
...and Ch3...
DC into the next stitch:
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Continue around the long edge of the cuff, until you reach the end of your piece. (here the hook is showing you roughly where to be looking for your stitch to DC into).
When you reach the last stitch space, DC into it and then join with a SS to the 3rd Ch of the first chain you made. Fasten off, and tie/add another colour. Hook under 1st stitch, Ch3, then DC around the row, SS to join into 3rd stitch of first Chain. (it may be a good idea to have a stitch count, to make sure you are keeping each row the same length). Work this way until you have approximately 14 rows (feel free to add more if you want them longer though).
Now its time to make the thumb holes:
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Now this is where the arm warmers differ slightly, and is the only difference in the pattern that you need to take note of. To keep the seam running inside the glove (ie, palm side) we do our thumb holes in different places on the two gloves. For the RIGHT HAND WARMER: Hook under 1st stitch, Ch3 and DC around. When you have 7 stitches left at the end of the row, it is time to create your first thumb hole. Do 1DC (6 stitches left) CH 4 Count (and miss out) 4 stitches and DC into the 5th stitch. DC into the 6th stitch and SS to join to the 3rd stitch of the first chain. Fasten off, tie in your new colour and as before, hook under 1st stitch, Ch3, then DC all the way around, simply DC into the 4 Chain stitches you used to make the top of the thumb hole as normal. For the LEFT HAND WARMER: Hook under 1st stitch, Ch 3 and do 1 DC into next 2 stitches. Count 4 stitches and Chain 4, DC into the 5th stitch and carry on with 1DC in each stitch until you have completed the round. Fasten off, tie in your new colour and carry on, as before. You will need to crochet 3 or 4 more rounds of DC, depending on where you want the arm warmer to finish on your hand. To finish the arm warmer, the last two rows are both SC done into the BACK LOOP of each stitch: *Attach new colour wool. Hook under 1st stitch, Ch1 SC into BACK LOOP of each stitch to complete round. SS to join into the 1st chain you made, fasten off. Repeat from * for the second round.
You will now need to join together the edges of your cuff - there are a couple of ways to do it: Turn your arm warmer inside out. You can simply sew the two edges together with the same colour wool, or you can SC them. To SC the edges, hold the two edges together and push your hook through the two outside loops of each stitch. SC down the edges until you reach the end, finish off. All that remains to do now is that nasty job of sewing in all the ends - just turn your arm warmers inside out, get a big pile of biscuits and a cuppa (always helps at these crucial mundane moments to have something nice to take our minds off it I think) and get busy!
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ŠJulia Crossland 2011
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