STAFET BA FASHION SHOW
INTRODUCTION BY LAURA HERTZ KARLSEN This year’s recently graduated fashion designers from Design School Kolding and The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts’s fashion show during Copenhagen Fashion Week 2015 is named STAFET. A baton is used in relay races in which several participants succeed each other to deliver a complete performance; it is a team sport and you must cooperate to get the best possible result. Similarly, fashion is seen as a team sport where the quality of the individual designer’s achievement strengthens the community. Each of the 20 designers’ collections should be seen as a symbol of a relay runner who individually perform his/her best for the benefit of the community. On the runway the 20 designers will display their unique designs, aesthetics and personal views on fashion, which will provide the show with a high sense of diversity. In this catalogue you can explore the designers’ own thoughts on their collections.
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STAFET BA FASHION SHOW 2015 DESIGNERS
CONTACT:
S. 8-9 MARIE SLOTH ROUSING DSKD
s. 10-11 CHRISTINA HAXHOLM DSKD
s. 12-13 MARIE BACH KADK
s. 14-15 TINE HØRUP KADK
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s. 16-17 CAROLINE ANDERSSON KADK
s. 18-19 ROSA KRISTOFFERSEN DSKD
s. 20-21 LINE BERENDT KADK
S. 22-23 OLGA WILLADSEN DSKD
s. 24-25 MICHALA BRÄUNERGRØNKJÆR / KADK
S. 26-27 JULIE THORNBERGTHORSØE / KADK
fashionba15@gmail.com
www.bafashionstafet.com
@FASHIONBA15
S. 30-31 LILI PHAM DSKD
S. 28-29 ANNE LOUISE SCHMIDT DSKD
s. 38-39 FRIDA BARFOD KADK
s. 36-37 KRISITNE BLAD DSKD
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s. 34-35 NYNNE-JOLINE KADK
s. 32-33 JULIE HELLES ERIKSEN DSKD
s. 46-47 LAURA HERTZ KARLSEN KADK
s. 44-45 ALEXANDER MARSTRAND KADK
S. 42-43 BOLETTE SØRENSEN KADK
s. 40-41 CAMILLA GRAVLUND DSKD
COLLECTIONS
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PROCESS
ABSTRACT
STYLES
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MARIE SLOTH ROUSING IN BETWEEN
(DSKD)
Clothing and Room are created by and for humans and can be perceived as shells around us in different scales. In this project I’ve investigated the space In Between. The space in between is not something we give a lot of attention but it’s interesting because it is a big part in the creation of shape. My starting point for the project a curiosity about the meeting between clothing and room. In the project’s development I discovered that my interest was mainly for the gab between the two. Therefore I created five silhouettes and a short film showing the space in-between in the five states. In each state I am describing the space in different ways under the titels: State 1: Disappearance, State 2: Retention, State 3: Capture, State 4: Modulation, State 5: Release. The project is about making something unseen seen, to get people to be curious and discover the excitement of something that we perceive as normal.
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CONTACT:
+45 24910800
marie_sloth@hotmail.com
www.slothrousing.com
@MARIE_ROUSING
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Model: Lin Rosenbeck / Photo: Philipp Schmitt
CHRISTINA HAXHOLM MOTION
(DSKD)
Movement is a medicine for creating a persons physical, emotional and mental state. The purpose is to enhance the joy of moving freely, by extending the natural movements of the body. I have studied the movement of body and clothes when in motion together, to make each garment a translation of one of three selected principles for movement: lag, anticipation or correspondence. I want to connect body and clothes in a way that will improve the wearer’s relation to the garment to ensure long term wear, care and tear. I make garments for use, considered and compared, and I value high quality, handcraft, knowledge and investigation. This project features handmade micro pleats, draping and classic construction, and one handcrafted leather and fur item, which is a personal highpoint of patience, practice and quality.I love what I do when purpose and passion ignite every creation.
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CONTACT:
+45 28402237
christinahaxholm@gmail.com
www.cargocollective.com/christinahaxholm
@CHRISTINAHAXHOLM
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Model: Laura Andersen LE MANAGEMENT / Photo: Thomas Dohn / MUA: Eva Haxholm
MARIE BACH (KADK) THE SILVER CHAIR As the only participant from the KADK textile department, this project differs from the other projects by not being fashion. This is a textile project; designing textile for theater productions. From the C.S. Lewis book, The Silver Chair, I have selected three of the main characters: The Evil Queen of Underland, The Earthmen and The Owl. Based on their personality, behavior and description of appearance, I have experimented with different textile techniques, materials and color combinations. Working with costume design instead of fashion, I have had to take a very different approach. On the theater stage, the most important thing is to communicate the character and its role in the story, and having it visible from a distance of 10 meters. For the Evil Queen to be hypnotic and snake-like, I have worked with graphic print and poisonous green. With the Earthmen I worked with two opposite layers, the earth vs diamond-juice, and the Owl explores tones of white and different surfaces.
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CONTACT:
+45 42531848
smilmarie@gmail.com
www.andenogmanden.dk
@ANDENOGMANDEN
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Model: Anette Leegaard / Photo: Marie Bach
TINE HĂ˜RUP (KADK) SEMI-DETACHED FROM THE BODY A conceptual project about developing the way that we carry bags. Bags, unlike other accessories have a somewhat detached relationship with the body. A shoe for example is only functional when on the foot. A bag, on the other hand, still carries all your belongings even though you have placed it on a table. What happens when we change the shape and size of the bags as we know them and replace the on the body?
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CONTACT:
+45 26238069
post@tinehorup.dk
www.tinehorup.dk
@TINEHOERUP
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Models: Mette Aasted, Louise Østerlund / Photo: Tine Hørup
CAROLINE ANDERSSON THE STAGED REALITY
(KADK)
Clothes we wear are connected with potential shame. Garments intended to protect us and create confidence has also great potential to leave us exposed and vulnerable. Imagine you find yourself walking around with toilet paper under your shoe or open zipper. We arrange our clothes to visualize our personality and how we want to be perceived. Our clothes have a mission to help us communicate with the context. What happens when our clothes fails? These feelings of shame connected to clothes we wear has been inspiration for this collection. The collection The Staged Reality celebrates the unexpected and imperfect through garbage bags, coffee stains and clothes with an illusion of misfit. Giving attitude to what is percived as wrong. Mixing contrasting fabrics like plastic with wool and cheap with luxury. This collection brings reality to the catwalk!
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CONTACT:
+46 737025498
carolinebandersson@gmail.com
@ACBAND
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Model: Mathilde Staber LE MANAGEMENT / Photo: Dennis B채rlund
ROSA KRISTOFFERSEN (DSKD) THE TIME STRETCH TRAVELLER Drawing its inspiration from a sensory perception of electronic music, this project aims to encourage the senses by transforming musical effects into fashion garments. In the notion of our post-digital age, this is considered a contrast to the lack of contact with physical garments led by our ‘Internet behaviour’. By working from a designerly translation of an electronic musicians’ creative methods and techniques, the storytelling of THE TIME STRETCH TRAVELLER has been transferred into material and form. It is a story about being intoxicated into nostalgic time travel; yearning for the unlimited youth and being in a natural state of euphoria, feeling intact even though settings are chaotic. It is a collaborative project where transformation is cultivated; audio effects become textile prints, synthesizer circuits become garment paths, a sound becomes a material, intuition become your virtue in demand, failure become aesthetics - and thereby music become fashion.
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CONTACT:
+45 27640986
mail@rosalakris.com
www.rosalakris.com
@ROSALAKRIS
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Model: Sylvester Ulv / Photo: Malou Bumbum
LINE BERENDT (KADK) WAYS OF SEEING REALITY “Perspective centres everything on the eye of the beholder. It is like a beam from a lighthouse, only instead of light travelling outwards, appearances travel in. Our traditions of art called those appearances reality.“ - John Berger Our everyday life is full of digital devices, and we are always online and available on social media. Today the majority of society is sharing almost everything on the internet, so much that many are living a digital life almost as much as a physical life. But when our physical world is transformed into the digital world, some sort of filtration or manipulation takes place. The question is: which changes occur between the reality we each individually perceive and memorize through our eyes, and the reality which a camera can catch and freeze in one simple photograph?
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CONTACT:
+45 28121868
lineberendthansen@gmail.com
@LINEBERENDT
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Model: Amanda Jess LE MANAGEMENT / Photo: Niels Munk Plum / MUA: Amalie Bryde Laursen
OLGA WILLADSEN (DSKD) FEELINGS OF AN (ALMOST) HUMAN NATURE My project “Feelings of an (almost) human nature” is inspired by the film “The Wall”. I was intrigued by the portrait of a young mans psychic breakdown. I find this abstract part of human existence fascinating. I used the story of Pink (main character) as a way to translate human emotion through fashion. Complimentary to fabric I have worked with knitting. Working with knit as a craft allows me to create my own techniques. Here I have done it through simplifying the themes and motives in the film to keywords that translate into shape. F.ex. I tested a lot of techniques that involves holes, since they symbolize ‘broken’ or ‘damaged’, like Pink. My approach to designing based on the movie has been very analytical. Identifying motives and meanings and how they are visualized has been my steppingstone to designing. In this project I have sought to express human complexity through fashion.
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CONTACT:
+45 27629874
olga.willadsen@gmail.com
www.olgakatarina.dk
@OLGA_WILLADS
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Model: Anna Maegaard / Photo: Anne-Marie Vang / MUA: Amanda Fellov
MICHALA BRÄUNER GRØNKJÆR EAT-UP Within my collection EATup I work with a clash between the natural and unnatural. It is inspired by the use of animals in the food industry where the animal is taken far from its natural element and is turned into a product - packed in plastic. The meat is wrapped in many different kinds of packagings which helps us to create an illusion of what we are eating. it makes us forget about the origin of our food, to forget about the treatment of the animal. The plastic becomes an almost wrapped innocence around our meat product. I am therefore working in my collection with connecting this unnatural material - plastic with more natural and raw materials that together creates the clash between animal and industry.
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(KADK)
CONTACT:
+45 60169057
michalabg@hotmail.com
@MICHALABRAUNER
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Model: Signe Lynge / Photo: Florian Topel
JULIE THORNBERG-THORSØE FAIRY FOR SALE Fairy for sale is a light and playful summer collection. Many of the materials holds a light and weightless expression. The collection plays with a childlike naivety and a bright mind. Despite transparent materials retains the collection an innocent appearance. I find our reality very serious and tragic with predominantly focus on what is bad in the world. Therefore, I have worked with the idea of a daydream that can act as a ‘hide away’ when reality becomes unmanageable and you need a change in mood and positive environment. I want to visualize a place where mind and body can take refuge and find joy and optimism. My message of this project is therefore the antithesis of negative attention on the world. I’m not saying that we should not worry about each other and the earth, but this is just a reminder to notice and appreciate the beautiful and wonderful things in our reality. It’s such a simple thing, but can in practice be so difficult, when the reality paints the everyday gray.
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(KADK)
CONTACT:
+45 42390058
thrnbrgthrs@gmail.com
@THORNBERGTHORSOEE
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Model: Dorte Limkilde / Photo: Kim Wendt / MUA: Mickaela Berman
ANNE LOUISE SCHMIDT (DSKD) THE EXODUS COLLECTION The inspiration to this collection arises from the creation of my persona; a venturous girl pursuing her independence in her search for the perfect moment of emancipation. This emotional search is translated into a fictional journey, which is the fundamental inspiration to the EXODUS collection. The journey starts with “the take off”, continues with “the journey”; searching in different layers to view the road through the horizons - and then, in order to discover the final stage of emancipation; “utopia”. I was inspired by horizons and perspectives, which has been a main principle in the construction of my collection. Asymmetry and 3D details were used as fundamentals in my visualization of the nonlinear landscapes along with the geometric lines as a picture of the road you pass. For the individual garments, I reconstructed old patterns from 1900s horse riding clothes, whichI draped and shaped into new garments to finally com-bine it with the visual language of geometry and contrast.
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CONTACT:
+45 28903071
schmidt.annelouise@gmail.com
www.cargocollective.com/annelou
@ANNELOUISESCHMIDT
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Model: Nina Stybe LE MANAGEMENT / Photo: Kristina Korsager Rosendahl / MUA: Azita Andersen
LILI PHAM (DSKD) THE SURREAL ELEMENT My collection The surreal element is developed through research based on two artworks. The paintings I chose to work with the work of Rene Magritte, Importance of Marvels, and Max Ernsts Oedipus Rex, both artists are a part of the Surrealisms movement in the 20’s. Using their techniques such as automatism, I have through analysis of these two works found two keywords: “collage” and “scale of proportions” and I’ve transformed these techniques into elements that could be implemented into my own design process. One of the design methods I’ve used is “automatic collage” which takes inspiration from the idea of automatism combined with the collage technique. The collection The surreal element takes inspiration from the surrealistic universe, but combined with a more wearable attitude. The collection consists of oversized details and extra small details, playing with different proportions.
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CONTACT:
+45 41989866
liliutp@gmail.com
@LILIPH
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Model: Sigrid bendixen LE MANAGEMENT / Photo: Kristoffer Juul / MUA: Margrethe Yasmin
JULIE HELLES ERIKSEN ABSTRACT_ CUSTOMIZED FASHION
(DSKD)
Express your stories through customized fashion with Abstract_. Customers are involved in the design process by generating patterns from their own personal stories. The web shop analyzes what the customer writes and how it is written and transforms this data into a visual representation of the customer’s story. Abstract_ will transform the customer’s personal pattern into a textile and a unique piece of garment. With Abstract_ we want to connect the customer to the cloth they buy so the customer will keep and care more about the cloth they buy. From the focus on personality in customization the inspiration for the shape is taken in human mistakes and mistakes in production. Mistakes are a sign of personality. The focus for the shape has especially been in twisting of shape and cut. Details in the shape are darts and bias binding on outside and lines that does not meet. We are three Danish designers who created Abstract_; Julie Helles Eriksen – fashion designer (men & women) Kristine Boesen – textile designer Bjørn Karmann – interaction designer
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CONTACT:
+45 28492584
juliehelleseriksen@gmail.com
juliehelleseriksen.com
@J.HELLES
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NYNNE-JOLINE (KADK) A DANCE ON ROSES My collection represent men and women wear (26 styles) where a minor part is presented in this show. The source of the inspiration takes a beginning in my own experiences with self-harming behavior/ cutting. During a design process the inspiration went through work with both the physical and psychological processes that takes place in a period of healing. Despite the gloomy inspiration I wanted from the beginning to work with light instead of darkness. After such a “rollercoaster ride” I am happy for my personal success story which is why I weighted to give the design an expression that does not immediately refer to self-harm/ cutting. Since it is a ready to wear collection with an avantgardistik touch the signal value is important: cutting should not become a trend, but it happens! As an inside experiencer I offer my version through my design and how to carry it on in the feature life. “A dance on roses”-the flowers and thorns both belong, if you absolutely must dance on roses.
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CONTACT:
+45 20666016
nynnejoline@gmail.com
www.nynnejoline.com
@NYNNEJOLINE
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Models: Ann-Christine Vilhelmsen, Magnus Groth / Photo: Nynne-Joline
KRISITNE BLAD DEFINED 8
(DSKD)
This collection interprets the human perception of infinity. Based on the theories of John Locke, defining methods in understanding the complexity of the infinite, it represents the art of transforming abstract into concrete. With inspiration from Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama working with the visualization of the infinite, this collection if defined by a simple language with a little dot-obsession added. The silhouette is classic and represents the tailored suit, a flamboyant ballgown skirt, the classic coat and a general sharpness of the 80’s power woman. This collection curiously explores the artisanal work of construction and tailoring combined with a focus on subtle and surprising details.
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CONTACT:
+45 28578232
kristineblad@hotmail.com
@KRISTINEBLAD
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Model: Evelina Frej LE MANAGEMENT / Photo: Charlotte Ea / MUA: Marie Dausell
FRIDA BARFOD (KADK) THE MESSY SAUSAGE WORKSHOP The Hot Dog has become a part of the Danish cultural history and it’s spreading constantly in new variations. It can taste wonderful, and it can be greasy and messy and difficult to eat. It can be nostalgic or just a quick snack on the way. There is a special atmosphere around a hot dog stand and the hot dog itself, which most Danes could relate to. The project was very visual and translated the hot dog’s simple ingredients to textile techniques. As an example, the roasted onions became the yellow fringe, and the ketchup and mustard became the twisted pattern of bands. My inspiration has taken a form-related expression in the collection, such as the tight sausage and the voluminous bread, which created a contrast in the volume of the silhouettes. In this project I also have worked with the atmosphere and the design of the hot dog stand and a self-created muse. Those two elements gave a contrast to the project in form of colors and textiles.
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CONTACT:
+45 25549707
fridabarfod@hotmail.com
@FRIDABARFOD
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Model: Sigga-Maria Hjalmarsd贸ttir H酶jgaard / Photo: Marie Ravn / MUA: Anika Juul Mistarz
CAMILLA GRAVLUND (DSKD) THE INTOXICATING COLLECTION I’ve made wearable drugs and carpets, here is the story: drugs has actually a beautiful and colorful visual language! The artist Sarah Schoenfeldt makes pictures of the liquid essense of intoxicating drugs. All you can feel is the name of her exhibition. I took inspiration in the pictures made from herion, speed, exctacy, ketamin and LSD. The colors and materials are developed from these pictures. To combine both color, material and shape, I used the tuft tecnique to develop my designs. I focused on balancing color- and material combination together with the 3D shape on the body. You see both handmade tuft and tuft made as a carpet with digitalprint made in collaboration with the danish carpet manufacturer EgetÌpper.
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CONTACT:
+45 27518563
gravlundcamilla@gmail.com
www.camillagravlund.dk
@CAMILLA_GRAVLUND
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Model: Regitze Rotfoff LE MANAGEMENT / Photo: Sofie Barfoed / MUA: Vivi Søderholm
BOLETTE SØRENSEN (KADK) KONTROLLERET KAOS I mit projekt her jeg arbejdet med kaos. Et kaos er en tilstand af uorden eller forvirring. Jeg er meget optaget af det ustrukturerede, upræcise og skæve udtryk, og derfor har jeg arbejdet med et kaos der udtrykker dette. Ved hjælp af en matematisk formel, har jeg opsat et område at arbejde inde for. Denne formel skulle udvælge en række elementer ved tilfældighed, som var så mit arbejdsområde, og det at det var tilfældigt udvalgt understøttede derfor mit emne kaos. Derudover har jeg også arbejde med skellet mellem det kiksede og det tjekkede udtryk. Ved hjælp af forskellige kombinationer af mønstrede materialer og broderi modsat det formmæssige nutidige udtryk, prøvede jeg at få dette kiksede vs. tjekkede udtryk frem. Derforuden er det er ikke det skandinaviske udtryk jeg har arbejdet med. Det er en kollektion der er anderledes, og tør at skille sig ud fra mængden, som ses ved det ‘kiksede vs. tjekkede udtryk’ og det sprælske der heri opstår.
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CONTACT:
+45 28184785
bolettes92@gmail.com
@BOEGUL
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Model: Cathrine Søgaard Mogensen / Photo: Mia Zander Olesen / MUA: Betina Sørensen
ALEXANDER MARSTRAND RE-OPENING THE BAKERY
(KADK)
In this project I have chosen to start with my own personal history. I represent the youngest generation of the Marstrand family. I’ve used my family to work with the concept heritage. Contemporary artist Tal R describes his fascination with the French fashion brand Hermès furthermore: ”Hermès uses visual codes that the general public don’t know or understand.” ”Hermès speak a language through its Heritage-references, and thus rises above everything average and normal.” ”Heritage is usually to highlight themselves by bathing in the magnificence of the past and role in society.” I chose to base my collection on a more common historic character, which in this case is my ancestor Jacob Marstrand. Jacob Marstrand was a baker and Mayor of Copenhagen, and inventor the classic pastry: Mayor rod – “Borgmesterstang”. Marstrand’s Bakery has unfortunately been closed since 2010, therefore the name of the project: RE-Opening the Bakery.
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CONTACT:
+45 30133118
almar@edu.kadk.dk
@ALEJANDROMARSTRANOVICH
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Model: Julie Silvander / Photo: Kasper Harup-Hansen
LAURA HERTZ KARLSEN KØNT
(KADK)
Working with gender stereotypes is about norms; what’s socially acceptable and what’s not. Norms are socially constructed and is ever changing. It’s influenced by politics, culture, literature and countless factors which are close to impossible to predict, and not always immediately apparent. The study of gender and stereotypes is portrayed in my collection where I seek to create a snapshot of the gender and equality issues in clothing and fashion, which favours women. Since forever, women have adopted menswear and with time made it their own. However, men do not have the liberty to wear a woman’s dress without being stigmatized as anything other than masculine. My collection is built on socially constructed norms of what is considered masculine or feminine - it does not provide a definitive answer on how the future will be like, but may be a glimpse of what it could be. Through my collection I encourage you to debate - and why not start off the debate with men in masculine wedding dresses?
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CONTACT:
+45 31320886
laurahertzkarlsen@gmail.com
www.laurahertzkarlsen.dk
@LAURAHERTZKARLSEN
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Models: Kasper Aavad, Mikkel Radicke, Mathias Brochorst / Photo: Ditte Katrine KjĂŚr Weber / Light design: Mathias Hersland
THANK YOU!
CATWALK MODELS
Tak til alle som har været med til at få dette show til
Ann-Christine Vilhelmsen
at lykkes!
Caroline Shashika Faurby Stycke Celina Anna Hansen
Thanks to everyone who’s
Deliane Jacobine Lefevre
participated and made this
Fie Rose Lindegaard
show possible!
Helene Hylling Julie Vera Laura Hvalsøe Schou Bynge Leonora Frydensberg Sepstrup Maty Sall Monica Hougaard Jacobsen Natasha Lindahl Sandra Røbel Erik Lindkvist Jens Von Vingaard skal Mikkel Radicke Ras Simeon Graham Eichel Simen Løberg Lierhagen
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GRAPHIC FORM: www.majahaak.se
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STAFET BA FASHION SHOW 2015