The Body Issue: Plus-Size Women in Fashion Magazines

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The Body Issue

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Plus-Size Women in Fashion Magazines

Kaitlynn E-A Smith


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THE BODY ISSUE: INVESTIGATING ROLES AND REPRESENTATION OF PLUSSIZE WOMEN IN FASHION MAGAZINES

Submitted for consideration of the partial fulfilments of Master of Arts in Fashion and Textile Innovation and New Applications: August 13th 2013 Kaitlynn Elizabeth-Anne Smith, B.A. Heriot Watt University School of Textiles & Design Galashiels, Scotland

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DECLARATION BY CANDIDATE

I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and effort and that it has not been submitted anywhere for any award. Where other sources of information have been used, they have been acknowledged. Signature: __________________ Date: ____________________

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I

would like to thank those who encouraged me to push for success from an abundance of influential teachers in Elementary School, High School and University to friends and family.

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am very appreciative of the teaching staff and technicians at Heriot Watt University who have contributed to the success of my project. I am especially thankful for the MA program team for their guidance to me and my classmates.

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big thanks to my classmates who always laughed at my jokes, especially Clare Clarke, Miira Mero and Steph Laird; all of you kept me sane this year.

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any thanks to my family and friends back home who kept me in the loop from across an ocean. To my brother, Matt for reviewing my work, and for your supportive words of encouragement.

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very special thank you to my Mom, Lynn who is always there for me: you taught me to accept myself and stop caring what others think. I could not have done this, or much else without your love and support.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Abstract...........................................................9 Statistical Evidence .............................................10 Aims .............................................................13 CONTEXT: Literature Review .............................................14-15 Contextual Research ..............................................16 Contextual Distinction ...........................................17 WRITTEN RESEARCH METHODS: Interviews .......................................................18 Surveys ..........................................................19 Postsecret and Anonymity ......................................20-21 PRACTICAL RESEARCH METHODS: Field ............................................................22 Crafting ......................................................23-25 Textiles.......................................................26-29 Photoshoot.....................................................30-33 Aesthetic......................................................34-35 MAGAZINE ARTICLE: What the Plus-Sized Can Learn from Punk .......................36-41 REFERENCES:....................................................42-50 APPENDIX: Appendix 1: Survey 2 “Your Body, Your Feelings”................51-52 Appendix 2: Verbatim Answers from Survey 2 .......................53 Appendix 3: Survey 1 Introduction to Magazines ................54-55

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Abstract T

he plus-sized woman in the world is an ostracized member of society. The physical exterior is a representation of a person based on looks instead of the individual itself. Fat can be gained or shed the same way one changes clothing. The comparison alludes to the plus-size fashion market as populations and the numbers of plus-sized individuals rise. In the plus-size community, a demand for equality and acceptance exists alongside the demand for clothing.

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his thesis aims to discover the role of plus-sized women in fashion magazines using extensive written research paired with practical design work. To analyse the plus-size women’s role in current fashion media outlets, the magazine was chosen as a two dimensional, visual medium that exists in small publications and large brands circulated globally. Emphasis is placed on the ways mass communication and print media echo societal views.

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he study of plus-size women in magazines is a relatively new topic as most research refers to marketing or advertising within its pages. Written research methods include interviews, surveys, articles, publications and internet resources.

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ractical work is mainly comprised of paper crafting. Through digital and hands on work, experimentations were executed through pop-ups, 3D forms, and cover page manipulations.

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he punk aesthetic developed as it became clear the plus-size woman's role in magazines correlates to the punk's role in society: as outcasts. Rough and smooth elements became contrasting symbols for the journey from self-hate to self-love.

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at activism has spawned hope for global acceptance. Empowerment is used as a tool to accept one's body and recognize thoughts and fears. Fat activism does not promote obesity, but a peaceful understanding of all shapes and sizes. Magazines that produce a special plus-size issue or a curvy cover star are small steps towards plus-size amalgamation. Change must be rendered through repetition and innovative thinking.

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Statistical Evidence A •

pproximately 66.3% of the American population is overweight or obese and 48.2% of Canada’s population (Ip, 20011, p.1)

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n the USA more than three-quarters of healthy weight adult women believed they are too fat (Lelwica et. al., 2009, p. 20)

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y 2025 40% of American people will be obese and 35% of the population in the UK (Jobling, 2013, p.1)

inge eating may soon be included on the medical Diagnostic and Statistical Manual (DSM) mental health manual along with existing entries in anorexia and bulimia (Flaskerud, 2010, p. 491)

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n the UK, plus-size womenswear is the fastest growing sector in the apparel industry as 30% of the country are plus-size women (WGSN, 2012, p. 1)

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he UK population spent £4.9 billion in 2011 on plus-sized clothing while the juniors market of youth/teenagers is estimating sales of £6 billion by the year 2015 (WGSN, 2012, p. 1)


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LOVE Magazine manipulation with scalpel

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Aims T

his study aims to examine, explore and answer the large question; what are plus-sized women’s roles in female fashion magazines? While delving into research, additional themes arose throughout with the following questions considered: • Are plus-sized women in magazines considered Others? • Can a magazine include women of all body sizes? • Do plus-sized women in magazines reflect cultural trends in society and media? • How is fat stigma present in magazines?

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he topic of plus-sized representation in specific forms of media is a relatively new subject to be explored while the realm of fashion magazines spans from small to mass produced accessible beacons for the fashion world. With such a vast array of material to sift through, this investigation is framed around a solid research base. During the previous semester written research was the main focus covering journals, articles, blogs, books, websites, news outlets and magazines. The current semester is exploration through practical work utilizing findings from written research, transforming it into a visual and practical medium to discover new meaning and conclusions.

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he author’s study methodology is based on personal experience, anonymous feedback and a strong research basis combining prior degree education in dramatic arts, history and humanities with practical experience in fashion and design. A personal interest in the subject brings relational familiarity and primary resource knowledge.

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CONTEXT Literature Review I

n the first issue of Fat Body Politics, Jeri Coleman theorizes how fat can evoke a social stigma. If someone perceives her/himself to possess the negative traits associated with fat, they may wrap these negative traits into a neat package labelled “fat” without regard to body size or physical appearance (Coleman, 2012, p. 73). Stigma is not only developed through outsiders, but within the person themselves. The correlation envelops an individual in a liminal space between fat and slim. Fat represents traits they currently associate with themselves with slimness a physical ideal constantly out of reach.

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imilarly, deep issues arise in the article including fat and sex, fat and violence. Fat individuals are denied sexuality by society while rejecting the autonomy of fat individuals and devaluing their bodies, which can result in making light of violence against fat individuals, especially sexual violence (Koppelman, 2004, p. 74). Fat individuals are expected to be grateful for any attention they receive while simultaneously, a person who engages in disordered behaviors like self-starvation, excessive exercise, or general body and self-hatred is not considered worthy of help for their disordered behaviors if they are fat (Coleman, 2012, p. 74).

Insisting that weight implies behaviors like poor diet and lack of exercise insinuates that other physical characteristics can imply related factors, such as genital size implying sexual activity, or nostril size implying how much someone picks their nose

Coleman, 2012, p. 74

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K

jerstin Gruys tackled a plus-sized commercial retail venue from inside. She worked for nearly a year at a large American chain brand store that sells clothing exclusively for size 14+ (referred to for security purposes as “Real Style.” She documents the struggles of plus-size women customers and compares the sizing and effects of mixed size workers. The majority of sales associates are plus-sized, but managerial, stockroom and higher management (regional managers, company executives) are standard sized. The decision making process of standard sized managers did not comply with the company’s brand of inclusive style for larger women.

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he element of fat stigma presented itself daily, “when the top-down corporate culture of Real Style collided with the bottom-up culture of the real world, women had to interactively negotiate these competing cultural repertoires within the constraints of their roles” (Gruys, 2012, p. 482).

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he store provides a sense of security for women as they currently occupy a disadvantaged position in society. This introduced the potential for worker and customer manipulation by corporate policies and pricing, even as marketing tries to parallel a community at ease.

I quickly learned that being even one or two sizes smaller than plus size was very meaningful to customers, who often viewed me as “skinny” and therefore as a distinct “other”

Gruys, 2012, p. 495

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Contextual Research R

esearch on the subject of plus-size women in culture and media come from a large array of cultural outputs. Blogs and social media websites such as Pinterest and Tumblr allow plus-sized consumers a global outlet and audience to express themselves. The bloggers have a positive influence on fashion magazines as plus-sized fashion companies have included them in their design and marketing/advertising campaigns (WGSN, 2011, p. 1). In non-academic sources information is carefully evaluated while removing author bias.

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his introduction of the academic journal Fat Studies: An Interdisciplinary Journal of Body Weight and Society this year brought forth many original articles on the subject of plus-sized women especially in reference to societal and cultural influences. It provides an invaluable insight into the academic study of plus-size.

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owever, the majority of research unearths journal articles from the science field of medicine and mental health (Flaskerud, 2010) (Ben-Tovim et. al., 1990) and consumer research (McFerran et. al. 2010) (Richins, 1991). The area of social work brought forth articles reflecting on fat woman in relation to advertising (Jonston et. al. 2008), stigma (Holland et. al. 2013), cultural consciousness (Barwick et. al. 2011) and fat activism (Gurrieri, 2013). Academic sources were given precedence for factual and statistical evidence because of the use of qualitative and quantitative deduction, references and lack of bias.

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Magazine Cover manipulation using small and large silhouettes with postsecret and survey quotations


Contextual Distinction T here is a lack of academic articles that specifically target plus-sized women and fashion magazines. Articles that reference fashion magazines do so while referring to advertising or marketing campaigns (Kargbo, 2013 and Millard, 2011). The plus-size fashion market is growing internationally and producers gain customers as business grows into broader marketing and development. Business will generate money which can pay for future growth and expansion into different media markets including magazines.

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he magazine market has steadily grown and generates greater readership through digital means communication with mobile phone and tablet applications. Modern approach means possible endeavours between magazines and plus-sizes are interminable. This study is unique because of creative synthesis between two concepts. Combining two separate areas creates characteristic comparisons and contrasts, further helping understand relationship distinctly and to each other. Information is formulated through written research and investigated during practical work. This additional twofold method generates a thorough understanding and full exploration.

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he study draws from the North American and European magazine markets respectively. The international perspective allows a cross-continent critique on the magazine as well as its relationship to international viewers with the publication country’s societal and cultural views. Mass market magazines offer interesting viewpoints as brands exists in several countries at once. For example, ELLE Magazine has a Mexican, American, Canadian and French-Canadian edition in North America alone. Although due to time and circulation restrictions, focus is placed on American, Canadian and British editions.

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WRITTEN RESEARCH METHODS T

he previous semester’s work was almost exclusively written research. The first task in magazine research was compiling lists of printed magazines; independent and mass market, fashion, art, plus size, and Canadian. The lists gave perspective on which areas are currently targeted, and which audiences were missing. Investigation into the meaning of the Other focused on the postmodern theory of a cultural outsider in Hegeman, 2003 and McFerran et. al., 2010. Internet blogs and websites made by or devoted to plus-size fashion helped root theory in the area. A variety of articles from newspapers, journals and online news outlets from Europe and North America were sourced. A variety of relating topics were referenced including Others in culture and media, youth suicide as a result of body bullying, mental health and physical appearance, the plus size modelling industry and digital manipulation in magazines.

Interviews I

nterviews provided primary resources and qualitative data from a variety of individuals. These were conducted with the following • Editor in Chief, Manik Magazine • Creator/Photographer, The Adipositivity Project • Photographer, Haley Morris-Cafiero • Actor/Comedian, Carly Heffernan

Q

uestions about fashion, body image, plus-size motives and cultural influence were asked to each individual who are involved in the plus size movement in separate forms. There is a prevalent theme throughout that stigma towards larger individuals is uncalled for. Questionnaires revealed dissatisfaction in mass market magazines for continual portrayal of slim women. One interviewee regarded women are portrayed, “like no one else in the real world” (Morris-Cafiero, 2013, p. 1). The consensus aligns with previous research in the field and concluded individuals share the same moral efficacy.

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There is a war on the “plus size” period. It’s almost the last form of racism that’s acceptable. Whenever you see a plus size woman in film she is always pigeon holed to particular roles, rarely is she seen desirable, wanted, or beautiful. In fashion, plus size women are mistreated

Coleman, 2012, p. 74

Surveys T

o add a rounded research base, surveys were conducted to gain information from a large demographic. A survey on general magazine usage was conducted first semester with 53 participants (Appendix 3). An additional survey was conducted 23 May 2013 (Appendix 1) on body image and appearance. This longer and detailed survey generated to women with 20 participants completing it. Participants were asked to describe their body, any negative comments they have received and an open ended question on the topic of body image. These comments (Appendix 2) were vital to the practical work that followed. Answers varied from having no negative thoughts about their body to worrying about appearance daily. The variance reflected answers from the demographic: not all women associate bodies negatively.

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Photos via Postsecret.com

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I would rather be FAT than be dead

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Anonymous, Postsecret 2012

Postsecret & Anonymity P

ostsecret is a community art project where people mail their secrets anonymously on a postcard. Postcards are received by Frank Warren, who posts twenty on the website each Sunday. Body image, eating disorders and weight are common subject matter. Through archives, a list was compiled of any secrets relating to these topics. The list of secrets was used in addition to quotes from surveys to ascertain individual values from a large, anonymous demographic.

Photos via Postsecret.com

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PRACTICAL RESEARCH METHODS Field T •

he Vogue Festival April 27-28, 2013 in London. Panel discussion “Too Fat, Too Thin” with model David Gandy, Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, journalist Christa D’Souza, model Daisy Lowe, Patsy Kensit and Vogue editor in chief Fiona Golfar. A discussion touched on aspects of body issues in fashion and fashion retailing

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&A Museum, London ational Gallery, London

cottish National Gallery of Modern Art

Vogue Festival 2013, Vogue.co.uk

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Crafting A

large portion of practical work is manipulation using paper. The paper magazine form is a constant as work progressed around the material. Sketchbooks are designated for specific ideas and areas for development. However, the paper for 3D work changed as the medium presented limitations.

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ift up flaps and Pop-up Experimentation in sketchbooks

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ut and paste methodology is used to combine text and images. Current magazine covers are printed as a base and text from surveys (Appendix 1-3) and Postsecrets (Page 20-21) contrasted the image headlines forming a collaged cover.

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Textiles T

he process continued into textiles. Text and image are digitally separated and text is transfered onto fabric. Plain crew neck, white T-shirts were used for simplicity in cut and style. The design is transformed and designed from the initial collage cover to represent the meaning of the text. This shows the possibilities into fashion textiles using that could include silk screening, digital printing or knitting. Layout from the text can also be inspiration for silhouettes in design. Small

Small

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Large


Medium

Medium

Large

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X-Large

X-Large

XX-Large

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XX-Large

XXX-Large

XXX-Large

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Photoshoot M P H S

odels: Stephanie Laird (22, Scotland) and Miira Mero (31, Finland)

hotographer: Kaitlynn E-A Smith air & Makeup: The model’s own everyday look is used to show fluid representation of individualism.

et up: A black background is used to contrast the white shirts and place emphasis on the designs and text. Colored boxes added a geometric and colorful element. The dress form to the right of center is a visual reminder of the average fashion model’s size and emphasized the individualism of the shirt’s text as well as the sizing and fit on the body.

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rocess: Models tried on each of the 12 T-shirts in order from largest size (XXX-Large) to smallest size (Small). The expressions and movements are captured in response to questioning about size, fit, emotional connection and wearability.

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igital Processing: Files are uploaded to the computer, cropped and straightened using Adobe Photoshop. Photos were not retouched and left in their snapshot state.

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God Save The Queen Flag: Promotional Poster, 1977

Charlie Anderson, 2013

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Punk Art Catalogue front cover: Miller, Ringma & Hoppe, "Smashed Mona," 1978


Aesthetic T

he combination rough and smooth aesthetic developed quickly during practical work. The transition was representational, echoing the journey from body betrayal to self-love. The purposeful cut and paste, disheveled look shows elements of a punk framework that demonstrates defiance to ordinary and a clash of ideas. It takes what is traditionally ugly and steeps it in shock value and visual over-stimulation to provoke and promote social change.

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he correlation between punk’s aesthetic and the current climate for plus-size women is evident as fat women take their place in the background of society, shunned because of physical appearance. The plus-sized women’s place in society is constantly changing. Their creation is through culture, which evolves constantly from societal influences. Individual empowerment fades when masses push for ‘fat is bad’ civilization. A magazine producing one plus-size issue or plus-sized cover star is insufficient and does not lead to unified humanity. Magazines are only a portion of the media and their disregard for plus-size women’s amalgamation as a body type is a reminder that progress is not transformation.

…A relation to fatness that does not smoothly transition from bodily alienation to fat acceptance or “fat positivity,” but instead highlights the hidden gaps, ambivalences, and ellipses of claiming a fat identity

Kargbo, 2013, p. 162

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‘Skinny VS Curvy’ V Magazine: J. Jablonski & C. Renn, Jan. 2009

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MAGAZINE ARTICLE T

he magazine component of the study brought a unique challenge to write an article encompassing aspects of the research. This written work is a magazine or newspaper article aimed at the general public that can reach an audience who knows a lot about the subject, or is a casual reader.

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t is written in the opinion-editorial style in second person tense. The text in two columns, and headline with photo are prevalent layout features in general, arts-friendly print editions or website versions of magazines such as The Huffington Post or in fashion, music and lifestyle publications such as Vanity Fair, Rolling Stone, or Vogue. These magazines usually feature two to three opinion pieces per issue that are easily readable in 600-800 words. The article needs a provocative idea or new concept to grab reader attention, especially in a fashion magazine that is inundated with visuals.

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t can resonate for readers interested in music or fashion and especially individuals in the plus-size community. The article’s information translates in any English-speaking country and reflects the research in the North American and United Kingdom’s print publications.

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t is newsworthy because it acknowledges opposing viewpoints and promotes reasoning with tangible ideas for

change.

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WHAT THE PLUS-SIZED CAN LEARN FROM PUNK The unlikely connection between two cultural identities and how adapting punk ideals can benefit the plus sized person BY KAITLYNN E-A SMITH

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erhaps it is the MET’s recent costume institute exhibition Punk: From Chaos to Culture that brought a resurgence of punk aesthetic into mainstream media. But the modern revival has brought back ideals of the punk movement that began in the early 1970s. This period rebelled against conformity while revelling in individualism and direct action to change. The new attitude was political and often used shock/ awe methods to provoke or stun the viewer to question beliefs. The plussize community, women in particular, have also seen a rise in media representation. Society is divided in a spectrum with a middle line constantly moving. The fat left is activists who applaud body acceptance and taking the negative connotations away from fat. Moving slightly are those who believe fat should be accepted and regarded as a body type like any other to be included in television, films and magazines. The middle is undecided while the right side are those who oppose plus-sized

bodies as unhealthy, wrong or against normal. Likewise, the far right are extremists who regard fat with disgust and people who possess it unworthy of love, sex or happiness. A plus-sized punk woman is not unusual in a music world familiar with Beth Ditto. So what do these two ideas have in common? Both are members of society who are criticized because of physical appearance. However, punks embody a careless attitude whereas many plus-sized individuals shy away from embodiment. A very small number of plussized women say their body is beautiful. Activists for the fat acceptance movement have taken back the word fat, a word previously used to insult and shame. In a study by Jeannine Gailey entitled ‘Fat Shame to Fat Pride: Fat Women's Sexual and Dating Experience’ participants were asked about personal history and feelings about their body. A shocking 94% of participants indicated they experience ridicule, shame and attempts to lose weight in daily life. Fat women feel like

The roughness and imperfections in the punk attitude echo the transition of body acceptance and the bumps from shame to self-love

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second class citizens, undeserving of happiness and respect. It is no wonder the mass correlation between obesity and depression. Standard sized individuals were also surveyed in Gailey’s survey about their

viewpoint is inaccurate although many women feel similarly. Why is society so harsh to people who look different? The more relevant question remains; how is change sparked?

A selection of magazine covers featuring lead singer Beth Ditto of the punk band, ‘Gossip’

perceptions of fat females. Males’ generally agreed fat women were “easy” because they are desperate for attention or insecure. This

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The first step to societal change is personal change. Plussized individuals need to adopt a punk attitude. This does not mean an embellished leather jacket and safety pins,


but an internalized personal acceptance. Personifying a plus-size identity is subversive and a form of political resistance. Acts of subversion and resistance to dominant social forces can become empowering. Gailey suggests women who embody, or are working to embody, fat pride, can move beyond trying to change their bodies and focus on developing satisfying relationships with themselves and others. A punk attitude embodies political action and rejecting injustice. Be strong and reject what society says about a fat body being ugly. If someone is healthy in their size, they need begin believing they are equal and deserve respect. Individual freedom is just that; freedom to be an individual. Individuality is being proud that you are one unique and one of a kind. Too often the word fat is used to sum up an entire population of people without regard for individuals while provoking societal stigma. Punks revel in individualism and standing out from the crowd as witnessed by their clothing and look. Being different is not a curse, but proudly representing a nonconformist look.

The plus-sized can learn from anti-authority behaviour. Retailers often exclude larger sizes while exclusively plussize retailers often take advantage of their specialty size status. Take a cue from the DIY punk aesthetic and try altering or constructing garments to fit shape and size. The punk theology of rejecting traditional gender norms resonates within the plus-size. Similar to a transgendered person transitioning, large people often feel trapped in the wrong body. Individuals feel like fat is a suit they want to take off. The roughness and imperfections in the punk attitude echo the transition of body acceptance and the bumps from shame to self-love as if straddling a liminal space between disgust and empowerment. Learning society does not need to dictate individual feelings can empower and dissolve self-stigma. Everyone is deserving of a full life of happiness and love, physical appearance aside. A change in outward attitude can become a declaration.

Being different is not a curse, but proudly representing a nonconformist look

Photographs from The Sex Pistols 1977, NME Magazine, LOVE Magazine and Rolling Stone Magazine.

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M-R. and Falissard, B. (2011) ‘Association between Body Mass Index and Depression: the “Fat and Jolly” Hypothesis for Adolescents Girls,’ BMC Public Health, vol.11, no. 649, pp. 1-7. Richins, M. (1991) ‘Social Comparison and the Idealized Images of Advertising,’ Journal of Consumer Research, vol. 18, no. 1, pp 71—83. Rutledge Shields, V., and Heinecken, D. (2002) ‘Measuring Up: How Advertising Affects Self-Image,’ University of Pennsylvania Press. Saguy, A. and Almeling, R. (2008) ‘Fat in the Fire? Science, the News Media, and the ‘Obesity Epidemic.’ Sociological Forum, vol.23, no.1, pp. 53-83. Saguy, A.C. and K.V. Riley (2005) ‘Weighing Both Sides: Morality, Mortality, and Framing Contests Over Obesity,’ Journal of Health Politics, Policy and Law vol. 30, pp. 869–921. Sauers, J. (2011) ‘Plus-Size Models Wear Body Padding To Please Certain Clients, And Other Modeling Non-Secrets.’ Jezebel [online] Available at: http://jezebel.com/5824896/plus+size-models-wear-body-padding-to-pleasecertain-clients-and-other-modeling-non+secrets Accessed 4 June 2013. Style It Online, [online] Available at: http://styleitonline.com/ Accessed 4 June 2013. Styles, R. (2013) 'Fashion magazines are written BY slim women FOR slim women, don’t read them if you are fat': Plus-size bloggers bite back as they star in new designer shoot for Evans,' Available at: http://www. dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2317589/Plus-size-bloggers-hit-skinnyfashion-magazines-star-Clements-Ribeiro-shoot-Evans.html Accessed 3 May 2013. The Curvy Fashionista, [online] Available at: http:// thecurvyfashionista.mariedenee.com/ Accessed 4 June 2013. The Sex Pistols, (2013) ‘The Sex Pistols,’ [online] Available at: www. sexpistolsofficial.com Accessed 6 July 2013. Thompson, C. J., Hirschman, E. C. (1995) ‘Understanding the Socialized Body: A Poststructuralist Analysis of Consumers’ Self-Conceptions, Body Images, and Self-Care Practices.’ Journal of Consumer Research, vol. 22, no. 2, pp 139-153. Vanity Fair, (2008) ‘Queens of Comedy,’ Vanity Fair. Versus. (2010) ‘V Magazine’s Plus-Size Issue Preview.’ Skinny vs. Curvy.

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Available at: http://skinnyvscurvy.com/hot-models/magazines-plus-sizeissue-preview.html Accessed 17 November 2012. Warren, F. (2013) Postsecret, [online] Available at: http://www. postsecret.com/ Accessed 12 May 2013. Watkins, P. (2012) ‘Teaching Fat Studies: From Conception to Reception,’ Oregon State University. Weakes, S. (2013) Plus Size Questionnaire. Interviewed by Kaitlynn Smith. [email]. Weiss, L. (2012) ‘Who is Too Fat to Fly? Airlines are Working it Out’. Huffington Post, US News Travel Blog [online] Available at: http:// www.huffingtonpost.com/us-news-travel/too-fat-to-fly_b_2101347. html?ncid=edlinkusaolp00000003 Accessed 17 November 2012. WGSN Newsteam. (2009) Retailers Drop Plus-Size Fashion to Cut Costs, WGSN. Available at: www.wgsn.com Accessed 5 November 2012. WGSN Newsteam. (2010) ‘New York Fashion Week to Feature First Plus-Size Runway Show,’ Available at: www.wgsn.com Accessed 5 November 2012. WGSN Newsteam. (2011) ‘Independent Retailers Plug Plus-Size Gap in Canada.’ Available at: www.wgsn.com Accessed 5 November 2012. WGSN Newsteam. (2011). Plus-Sized US Retailers Join Forces with “Fatshon” Bloggers to Boost Sales. Available at: www.wgsn.com. Accessed 29th June 2011. WGSN Newsteam. (2012) ‘Plus-Size Womenswear Offer “Biggest Opportunity” For US Retail Industry says Report.’ Available at: www.wgsn.com Accessed 5 November 2012. WGSN Newsteam. (2012) ‘UK’s Growing Plus-Size Market to be Worth 4.9 Billion This Year says Report.’ Available at: www.wgsn.com Accessed 5 November 2012. WGSN Womenswear Team. (2013) ‘Flirtatious Fifties: A/W 13/14 Women’s Plus-Size Capsule Trend. Available at: www.wgsn.com Accessed 29th June 2011. WGSN Womenswear Team. (2013) ‘Plus-Size Sweater: S/S 14 Commercial Update,’ Available at: www.wgsn.com. Accessed 29th June 2011.

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APPENDIX Appendix 1: Survey 2 “Your Body, Your Feelings” (distributed 23 May 2013) Survey Title: Your Body, Your Feelings Start Date: 23-May-13 End Date: 18-Jul-13 Invitations Sent: 2 Delivered: 2 Bounced: 0 Completed Responses: 20 Unique Access Response Rate: 0.00% Incomplete Responses: 0 Q2. How well do you agree with the statement “I love my body.” Responses Count % Percentage of total respondents Strongly Disagree 1 5.00% Disagree 9 45.00% Neutral 3 15.00% Agree 6 30.00% Strongly Agree 1 5.00% Other (please specify) 0 0% (Did not answer) 0 0% Total Responses 20 20% 40% 60% 80%

100%

Q3. How do you feel your body compares to other females? Responses Count % Percentage of total respondents Larger 3 15.00% Slightly Larger 8 40.00% Similar Sized 6 30.00% Slightly Smaller 3 15.00% Smaller 0 0% Other (please specify) 0 0% (Did not answer) 0 0% Total Responses 20 20% 40% 60% 80%

100%

Q4. Do friends or family comment on your body image? Responses Count % Percentage of total respondents Never 2 10.00% Almost Never 0 0% Sometimes 16 80.00% Very Often 2 10.00% Always 0 0% (Did not answer) 0 0% Total Responses 20 20% 40% 60% 80%

100%

Q5. After reading a magazine, do you feel more self-conscious about your body? Responses Count % Percentage of total respondents Never 3 15.00% Almost Never 5 25.00% Sometimes 9 45.00% Very Often 2 10.00% Always 1 5.00% (Did not answer) 0 0% Total Responses 20 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%

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Q6. Are you considered “plus-size” by fashion and model standards; a UK size 14 or US size 10 and up? Responses Count % Percentage of total respondents Yes 11 55.00% No 9 45.00% (Did not answer) 0 0% Total Responses 20 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% Q7. Have you ever been ridiculed or bullied because of your body? Responses Count % Percentage of total respondents Yes 10 50.00% No 10 50.00% (Did not answer) 0 0% Total Responses 20 20% 40% 60% 80%

100%

Q9. Have negative comments about your body changed the way you dressed? Responses Count % Percentage of total respondents Never 3 15.00% Almost Never 5 25.00% Sometimes 9 45.00% Very Often 2 10.00% Always 1 5.00% (Did not answer) 0 0% Total Responses 20 20% 40% 60% 80%

100%

Q10. Do you feel your wardrobe is empowering? Responsesv Count Yes 5 Sometimes 9 No 6 (Did not answer) 0 Total Responses 20

100%

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% Percentage of total respondents 25.00% 45.00% 30.00% 0% 20% 40% 60% 80%


Appendix 2:

Verbatim Answers from Survey 2

Response No : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Response Text

... I have large breasts so ppl would call me Pamela Anderson or they would ask me how I’m not falling over because of the I ever weight. I was also told that I have a flubbery belly No . when I was high school, greatly didn’t like when the male classmate just look at my body and compare with the other female classmate and scoring for the girl who had beautiful body. “Pig” “Fat” something like that, I can not remember the exact words. I have never been ridiculed or bullied because of my body. I said no to previous question. beached whale, fat bitch, trout puss Answer “No” . Wow you’re fat! One day I was at wonderland and got kicked of a ride because they said I was too fat. Most embarrassing moment of my life! That makes you look fatter. You shouldn’t wear that. You have big boobs. no I answered no. As a child I was called “Fatso & tub-of-lard” (Fatso fatso two by-four can’t get through the Kitchen door- was said to me over and over and over) and many more names which hurt me really really bad. On looking at old pictures of me as a child I really was NOT fat, just not skinny like my Brother and Sisters....it has made me conscious of my body all my life. Every day I feel sad and I do know that in reality I am not huge, just pudgy around the middle.... None No people have laughed and snickered as I walk by. People have not hired me because of my weight.People have not dated me because I am overweight. I’m quite short, so I would sometimes here negative comments about that in school (people calling me midget etc). A lot of people think that to be beautiful you have to be tall. I don’t really mind being short anymore, but I still feel uncomfortable going out to a parties without heels.

Response Response Text No : 1 2 I wish that ppl would accept the average woman size as beautiful. Being stick thin is not beauty. A woman who is confident about themselves and their body image is true beauty. 3 4 5 6 7 It is interesting to see that the female body ideal constantly changes. Which will be the ideal female body in 50 years? 8 9 sometimes i wished i was wearing a fat suit that i could just take off 10 11 It is everywhere- and drilled into us, either negatively or positively from a young age. It encompasses lots of thingsfrom health to how males view or admire a female. Body image (negative) will never go away, more people simply have to accept a healthier lifestyle which will make them feel good from the inside and show on the outside. The extremes of body image are obviously present from anorexia to obesity and ‘body image’ is often to do with the mind, not simply the size on the outside. Hope that makes sense?! 12 Being larger all my life it took one embarrassing moment to give me a boost to want to lost the wait. I used to hate my body and just feel so uncomfortable in my skin. I am now beginning to love myself again. It takes a lot of change in the mind to realize I am not that plus size girl anymore. 13 I feel we need to encourage children to participate in being more active. Parents far too often do not set a good example of being active or healthy eating. We need to let everyone know that you can be overweight and still be healthy. I really like the Dove campaign and how they are encouraging self-esteem and positive body image. Nike also has a campaign about ecouraging parents to let girls participate in sport and how this promotes positive self-esteem. Negative body image has a huge impact on todays society from eating disorders, drug use, alcohol abuse, self abuse such as cutting, and withdrawal from social activities. 14 15 I think the more we see our bodies in relation to created design and embrace the fact that we are all fearfully and wonderfully made, the less consumed we become in terms of what others think about us. Ultimately we know when we are unhealthy and overweight and when we simply have a different shape because of how we were designed. It is unacceptable to stay in a body that is unhealthy because of the garbage we put in, however, we need to work hard to accept and love the body we are given if we truely are eating healthy. Over the past little while I have come to love my body more not because I am not “small” but because I know I am filling it with good things and see that Gods hand was in ever detail of my being, and that is more than reason to celebrate and embrace it. 16 It would be nice at 69 years of age to leave it alone and just “be who I am” and stop fussing about weight. 17 18 No 19 People think that a persons fat is because they gorge themselves with bon bons etc but maybe it is a underlying health issue like diabetes or thyroid etc. 20

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Appendix 3:

Survey 1- Introduction to Magazines (distributed 31 January 2013)

1. Are you male or female?

Response Response Percent Count Male 13.2% 7 Female 86.8% 46 2. In what year were you born? (enter 4-digit birth year; for example, 1976) 1944 1961 (3) 1967 1985 (2) 1989 (10) 1955 1962 (2) 1982 1986 1990 (4) 1957 (2) 1963 1983 (2) 1987 (2) 1991 1959 (2) 1966 1984 1988 (7) 1992 (3) 1994 (2) 3. What is the highest level of education you have completed? Response Response Percent Count 2nd grade 1.9% 1 3rd grade 1.9% 1 10th grade 1.9% 1 Graduated from high school 13.0% 7 1 year of college 11.1% 6 2 years of college 1.9% 1 3 years of college 5.6% 3 Graduated from college 33.3% 18 Some graduate school 11.1% 6 Completed graduate school 18.5% 10 4. Which of the following best describes your current occupation? 7 Management Occupations 13.2% 1 Computer and Mathematical Occupations 1.9% 1 Legal Occupations 1.9% 3 Education, Training, and Library Occupations 5.7% 11 Arts, Design, Entertainment, Sports, and Media Occupations 20.8% 1 Food Preparation and Serving Related Occupations 1.9% 5 Office and Administrative Support Occupations 9.4% 1 Construction and Extraction Occupations 1.9% 20 Other (please specify) 37.7% 11 Student 1 Retired 1 Clerical 1 Unemployed 1 Cashier 1 Purchasing Agent 1 Postal Worker 1 Tech Support 1 Nanny 1 5. Do you consider yourself to be heterosexual, homosexual, bisexual, asexual, pansexual, or something else? Response Percent Responses Count Heterosexual 92.6% 50 Homosexual 0 0 Bisexual 5.6% 3 6. Do you consider yourself Christian, Jewish, Buddhist, Muslim, Hindu, a follower of some other religion, or not religious? Response Percent Responses Count Christian 42.6% 23 Jewish 0 0 Buddhist 3.7% 2 Not religious 53.7% 29

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7. How often do you read magazines? Extremely often Very often Moderately often Slightly often Not at all often 8. Which type of magazine do you read most often? News and Current Events Hobby Sports Interiors Music Health and Fitness Fashion Gossip/Celebrity Culture Trade 9. How do you usually receive or purchase magazines? Paid Subscription Purchase a Single copy Library Given by family or friend Online Mobile version

Response Percent 5.9% 11.8% 25.5% 37.3% 19.6%

Response Count

Response Percent 27.5% 9.8% 7.8% 9.8% 7.8% 17.6% 54.9% 33.3% 5.9%

Response Count

Response Percent 4.0% 62.0% 4.0% 8.0% 18.0% 4.0%

Response Count

3 6 13 19 10 14 5 4 5 4 9 28 17 3 2 31 2 4 9 2

10. Which magazines do you read most often? (List as many as you can think of) Vogue- 18 Elle- 13 People- 6 In Style- 2 Grazia- 2 Glamour- 5 ANSWERS VERBATIM: Vogue, vogue, knitting international, ok, elle decoration, homes and interiors, (craft magazines), men’s health, sports illustrated, macleans, national geographic, vogue, elle, instyle, vogue, nylon, elle, wallpaper, grazia, glamour, ok, grazia, cosmopolitan, healthy, le monde (french news), news week, hello canada, readers digest, women’s world, country weekly, newsweek. Time, People us, cosmopolitan, glamour, pick me up, look, dogs in canada, sports illistrated, best health, prevention, weight watchers, “o,” good housekeeping, people, people, people, woman’s world, life, new, vogue, elle, the economist, women’s world, canadian living, glamour, people, star, cosmo, sports illustrated, diy, canadian art, artinfo canada, artinfo, Canadian running, canadian cycling, runners world, canadian living house and gardens food, vouge, elle, canadian living, cottage life, photo life chateline, cosmo, kicker, gala, bild, sport, gq, menshealth, vogue, tmz, vogue, entertainment weekly, macleans, time, reader’s digest, vogue, elle, instyle, glamour, cottage life ,fishing magazines, harpers bazar, vanity fair, vogue, outdoor canada, i.D, elle, harpers bizzare, vogue; elle, more, company, glamour, i-d, dazed, vogue, elle, times, magazines are dead, most famous fashion magazine in the own country, womens magazines, vogue, elle, harpers bazzar, selvedge, craft, vogue, elle, dazed, oyster, pop, tatler, bazaar, id, pop, wonderland, vogue, usbek and rica time le monde, elle,vogue, pop, dazed and confused, elle, vouge, german vogue, alternative press, canadian dj, cosmo, in touch, people.

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Kaitlynn E-A Smith, 2013 Š


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