GREECe
T R AV E L i n g , v i s i t i n g , l e a r n i n g , ta s t i n g . . . e n j o y i n g !
Dear readers
a note from the author This book is made for the future foreigners who will settle or travel in Greece. The idea came from my own indecisiveness to choose what to visit among the thousand wonderful places the country has to offer, the difficulties I faced with the means of transportation, the needs I had to be introduced to some nice places in the city, the necessity to learn some basic words…With time it also became a way to promote the hellenic treasures. Greece made itself a special place in my heart and I would like, through this work to give back to a country which brought me a lot. I will try to share what I learned about its rich culture and traditions, to highlight the heartwarming Greek hospitality and to express my love for the local cuisine! Greece is much more than feta, tzatziki, sirtaki and Mykonos. Greece is a way of enjoying life, Greece is an example of the beauty and diversity of the nature, Greece is the cradle of the European civilization, Greece is an history book, Greece is model of ethnic diversity thanks to cultural exchanges through centuries…May this book give you the will to live the Greek way of life, to discover the country further than just the clichés. May this book transmit the beauty of the country from its landscapes, to the kindness of its inhabitants. Visiting Greece is not enough, to make the most of their stays, visitors should live, eat, celebrate, think, drink Greek. Easy to bet they will love it! I came to Greece with the Erasmus+ program, as an European volunteer. It was my first time in the country and it lasted 11 months from October 2017 to August 2018. I was living in Kalamata (Messinia region - Peloponnese). I felt in love with Greece and Greeks. Eleven months were obviously not enough to pretend knowing the country nor to fully visit mainland and islands. What I experienced during this period - and I am sharing in the present guide, could be seen as appetizers… which might give readers the desire to taste the whole dinner. Faithfully, Ophélie Cottier
CONTENT "It is all Greek to me" • Good to know • Basic Greek • Main celebrations in Greece
6 10 12
"Tasting Greece" • Good to know • Introduction to the Greek cuisine • Salty specialties • Sweet specialties • Beverages
19 20 25 35 41
"Kalamatian way of life" • Introduction to Kalamata • Author's favorite places
45 47
"Exploring Greece" • Travelling around Greece • Mainland (Peloponnesse, Athens, Central Greece, Thessaly, Macedonia) • Crete • More amazing places • Useful links
54 55 79 82 83
"It's all Greek to me"
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GOOD TO KNOW Daily life • As an English speaker you will have no difficulty to communicate with locals. Many Greeks are speaking English very well. However it is recommended to learn -at least some- Greek words. Showing interest for the language is truly appreciated. • You will find kiosks (or periptero in Greek) in every street. There, you could buy cigarets, beverages, food, toys…
• You will encounter many scooters and motorbikes, be careful when you are driving or crossing a street: they are driving fast. Most of them are not holding a crash helmet. • You will meet many lonely cats and dogs in the streets. • You will see many abandoned and unfinished buildings all around Greece, from the little villages to the city centers. • It is a common thing to find garbage cans or cars on the middle of footpaths or no footpath at all. • The bicycle paths are also often used by some scooters and cars. • In restaurants and cafes, the chairs are generally not headed for seeing friends but headed to the street/entrance.
• Smoking inside bars, restaurants, taverns is common, even though a law is forbidding it since 2010. • A coffee could be delivered, as well as food. • Greeks are coffee lovers. If you need a proof here is one: every day 1 million plastic coffee cups are used in the country. • Almost every Greek family is producing its own olive oil.
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Religion • The Greek Orthodox religion is very important, you will be able to notice it during main celebrations (Carnival, Easter, Christmas, 15th of August) but also in the daily life. During official events (as openings) priests are invited, Greeks cross themselves when they are passing in front of a church as well as at the beginning of the meals. • The State and the Church are not separated, for instance the Ministry of Education is also the Ministry of Religious Affairs. • When people are mourning a beloved one, they might wear black clothes only for 40 days, 6 months, 1 year or even a lifetime. • Easter is the most important Orthodox celebration. • In the streets or queues you might spot people “playing” with something. This is a rosary named “komboloï”.
Advices • As a pedestrian when you decide to cross a street be patient it might take a while and check very carefully before to go. • Most of the places do not accept credit cards or prefer not to have to do so. Be sure you will always have enough cash with you. • Anticipate withdrawing money. There is always a queue in front of ATM machines and early morning most of them are not working. • During the afternoon, most of the shops are closed, due to the siesta time. The closing time is more or less 14:00 to 18:00. • It is common that some shops are closed Monday and Wednesday afternoons. • Greek pipes are not built to support papers, so all around Greek (hotel included) it is forbidden to throw paper directly into the toilets. You will always find a garbage to get ride of the it. • Never empty a bathtub in a row, as the pipes are too small it will create a flood. • If you need to go to the post-office be aware of the time table: Monday to Friday from 7:30 to 14:30 (except in big cities where it could open longer).
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Moving around • About the buses' schedules, you have the exact hour when the bus leaves the first stop but most of the time you do not have the exact passing time for each bus stops on the way. You will have to calculate it by yourself. • When you are in a gas station, you do not fill it up by yourself, an employee is doing it for you. • If you are in Greece for a long period, do not wait to rent a car and travelling around. The price are getting higher and higher the closer the summer season is. • Driving with high heels or flipflops leads to a 50e fine (plus driving license revocation for 1 month). • Even though the gasoline is expensive in Greece (especially in summer) and you will have to pass many tolls on your way, the car is the best option to travel. Buses do not always have practical time tables and they are not reaching all the places you might be interested in and trains are not existing all over Greece. • In the mainland, when you are calculating the budget for your roadtrip, do not forget to keep in mind extra expenses due to the numerous tolls.
Cultural life Information given on the present article are general, a checking is recommended before to go on each specific site. • The opening hours for the museum and other historical monuments have different time tables depending on the season. From the 1st of November to the 31st of March is it 8:00-15:00. Then, from the 1st of April to the 31st of October it is 8:0020:00. • The free admission days are the 6th of March in the memory of Melina Mercouri, 18th of April, 18th of May, last Saturday of September and 28th of October. In addition to every first Sunday of the month from the 1st of November to the 31st of March. • Museums and historitical sites are closed the 1st of January, 25th of March, 1st of May, Easter Sunday, 25 and 26 of December. • The reduced or free entrance to the cultural and historical places are mostly depending of the cashier. For instance, some will accept all students cards, other only the Greek ones. • In some places, like monasteries, formal clothes are required
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• If you are visiting Athens, it is recommended to keep an eye on your belongings and to avoid the area Metaxourgeio. • The Greek history and the culture have an important place in education and daily life in the country. • Many celebrations are taking roots in Ancient Greece. • The traditional musics and dances are part of every celebrations.Most of the Greeks are dancing the traditional ones. • Greece is celebrating two National Days. The 28th of October, known as “Oxi Day” commemorating the “no” addressed from the Greek Prime Minister to the Italian dictator the 28 October 1940. The latter asked to enter the Greece territory. The "no" led to the entrance of Greece into the World War II. The second one, is the commemoration of the insurrection against the Ottoman Empire dated from the 25th March 1821. The revolution led to the end of 4 centuries under the Ottoman occupation. • Women are keeping their father's family name when they are getting married. • In Greece, especially for adults, the name day is more important than the birthday. • The children are given the name of one of their same gender grandparents. In a family, for instance, two or three cousins and the grandfather might have the same name. • Food and hospitality are important characteristics of the Greek culture. You will be given a lot of food. The roots seem to come from Ancient Greece, strangers were always warmly welcomed because they could be a God dressed up as a human being.
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Basic greek Greeting • Good Morning : kalimera • Good Night: kalinichta • Good Evening: kalispera • Hello or Goodbye: yiasas • Yes: ne • No: ohi • Thank You: efharistoh • Sorry or Excuse me: signomi • Do you speak English? milate aglika • I don’t understand: then katalavenoh • Please or You’re welcome: parakaloh Getting to know someone • Sorry I don't speak Greek: Signomi then milao ellinika • How are you? Ti kaneis OR po isse • What is your name? Pos se lene? • My name is: Me lene... • Where do you come from: Apo pou isse • I come from: Ime apo tin/ton/to.... • Where do you live? Pou menis • I live in: Meno stin/ston/sto... • Shopping • How much does it cost? Posso kani OR Posso kostizi • It costs ... euros: Kanei/ kostizi ... evro • I would like: tha ithelo... • 1kg: ena kilo • 250g: ena tetarto • 500g: misso kilo • 750g: tria tetarto • 2kg: dio kila 10
Eating outside • I would like a table for 2: Tha ithelo ena trapezi yia dio parakaloh • Do you have a reservation? Ehete kani kratissi • Would you like to drink something? Thelete na pite kati • Mineral water: metalliko nero • Fizzy water: afthrakouho nero • Would you like to order? iste etimi na paragilete • Would you like to take a dessert? Tha thelate ena epithorpio • No thanks, just a coffee: Ohi efharistoh, mono enan kafe • And the bill please: kai ton logariosmo parakalo
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CHRISTMAS Christmas season is starting at St.Nicolas’ day (6th of December) and lasts until the 6th of January (Feats of Epiphany). Traditions • Children are going from house to house to sing Christmas carols (kalandas): the morning of Christmas' Eve, at New Year’s Eve and the 5th of January. They might be given money or sweets. • The Greek Santa Claus is called Aghios Vasilis. He might bring few presents on Christmas’ Eve but traditionally he is coming the 1st of January. • Home made decoration is a popular activity during Christmas season. Most of the time, the home made lucky charms have the number of the following year and are kept for the full year. • During the 12 days between Christmas and Epiphany, fires are always burning to keep away the bad spirits (kallikantzaroi). In some areas, the bad spirit is personified by goblins, who are entering the houses through the chimney. • It is common to go to the church on Christmas morning for the religious service. • New Year's Day is also Saint Vasileios' day, which is the Name Day of all of those who haven’t a special name day during the year. • The last event of the Christmas season is January the 6th. All around Greece, waters are blessed and a cross is thrown into the waters by the priest. Brave people are jumping into the freezing waters to retrieve the holy cross. The first one who is reaching it will be lucky all year.
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Food Melomakarona and kourabiedes are the two Very Important Christmas and New Year's Cookies.The latters are normally served on New Year's but many people start to consum them earlier.
Christopsomo is the Christmas’ bread, baked on Christmas Eve and carved with a cross into the crust. On Christmas Day, the head of the house makes the sign of the cross above the bread, cuts it and gives a piece to everyone. The traditional dinner is made of different kind of meat (at least roasted pork or turkey) and many dishes (salads, potatoes…). The Vasilopita is the cake eaten on New Year's Day (and in January). A coin, covered in foil, is hidden into the cake. The year is always written on the top. The sign of the cross is made three times above before to cut the cake. Whatever the number of guests, three pieces of the Vasilopita are always kept: one for the house, one for the Christ and one for the “poor”. The one who is finding the coin in his piece of cake will have luck for the rest of the year.
Merry Christmas is « Kala Christougena » Happy New Year is "Kali Xronia"
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cARNIVAL IN GREECE
Carnival period is important because it comes ahead of the 40 days of Lent, which is mainly kept up in Greece. Those two religious celebrations matter because they are related to Easter, the most important celebration for the Orthodoxs. Carnival, Απόκριες in Greek, means « away from meat ». The celebrations are starting 10 weeks before Eastern and are lasting for 3 weeks. Carnival’s roots come from Ancient Greece with the celebrations in honour of Dionysos (God of vine, wine, madness and immoderation). The first week of Carnival is called « Profoni » which means “announce”. It is a tradition to announce the beginning of the Carnival season from the higher point in each village. The second week is “Kreatini”, the meat-eating week. • The Thursday is Τσικνοπέμπτη or « smoked Thursday ». On that day, everybody is grilling meat, streets are smelling barbecue. • The Sunday is Psihosavato, or All-Soul’s Saturday. On this day, the kollyva, is traditionally eaten. A dish made of boiled whole wheat and kernels, decorated with pomegranate seeds, currants, powdered sugar, walnuts, parsley and cinnamon. It is brought to church and sometimes to the graves as an offering.
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The third week is called “Tyrini”. Eggs and meals with milk are mainly eaten. Tiropita, galatopita, creamy rice pudding, phyllo-wrapped semolina…to name only some of the traditional dishes. This week -and so the Carnival time- are ending with parades, the burning of the Kind of Carnival and the “Sunday of cheese”. The last thing traditionally eaten, on the Sunday, is an egg, which will be the first eaten to break the Lent, 40 days later.
The "Cleaning Monday" named "Kathari Deftera" is an holiday in Greece. On this day, children are playing with flying kites, sellfish and mollusks are consumpted, "lagana" is eaten (unleavened bread) and the common dessert is the macethonikos halvas. In the villages, celebrations are taking place, traditional activities are depending of the area. For instance, in Chios Ottoman soliders are invading villages, gather inhabitants in the central square and collect money (given for a cultural association afterward), in Galaxidi a fight with flour and colourful powder is taking place.
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easter IN greece It essential to highlight that the Greek Orthodox Church is following the Julian calendar, which means Easter might not be at the same time as Easter in countries following the Gregorian one. Easter is the most sacred celebration in the Greek Orthodox faith. The last week of Lent is called the “Holy week” or “Megali Evdomada". This is a week with church services every evening and special opening hours in shops. A week of food preparation, of painting in white outside of the houses and churches as a symbol of purity. A look at the main rituals will be taken, however as every place may have its own, the present article does not pretend to reflect all the Greek traditions. Each day and period has its own wish, but the most common is "kalo paska". The Palm Sunday The first day of the “Holy week”. The Holy/Great Thursday The preparations for the celebration for the Resurrection are starting. The Easter brioche “tsoureki” is baked and eggs are dyed red, which symbolizes the blood of the Christ. According to The Spruce, the first egg might be put at the place where the icons are to ward off devil and, small lamb’s heads and backs might be marked with the red dye for protection. On that day, the mourning period is starting; women might stay into the church during the night to mourn. The Good Friday Day of the culmination of the Passion of Christ is known as the holiest day. Believers are not supposed to work or cook. If they do so, this is boiled beans with oil or thin soup like tahinosoupa. Girls and women decorate the Epitaphs with flowers. The bells of the churches are tolling all the day, Greek flags are lowered to half-mast. During the evening, a funeral service (The Service of Lamentation) is helding to mourn the death of the Christ. At 9:00 p.m the Epitaph Mass takes place. People are joining the procession through the streets of every single village and city, listening singers recite the funeral psalms. 16
The holy Saturday The morning is dedicated to preparations for the festive dinner of the Resurrection named Anastasis. During the day, the “Maghiritsa”, a soup with tripes of the lamb and herbs, is cooked. This dish and the red dyed eggs will be eaten after the service (after midnight) to break the Lent. In the morning, from Jerusalem, the Eternal Flame is arriving in Athens by plane. Many Greeks are watch, the landing on the television. The flame is distributed to Priests, who are in charge to carry it to their local churches. At 11:00 p.m, almost all Greeks are at the church. Few minutes before midnight, lights are turned off and everybody is holding a white candle, called labatha. The Resurrection of Christ is celebrated at 12.00 sharp, when the Priest says “Christós Anésti” (“Christ has risen”). At that moment bells are ringing, ships sound their horns, fireworks light up the night sky and little by little all the candles are lighted. People are exchanging wishes “Christos Anesti” and the response is “Alithos Anesti” ("Truly, he is risen"). Then, people are going back home with the lighted candle, trace the cross three times above the door and place it with the icons. Everybody gathers to break the fast and eat the traditional “maghiritsa”, the red dyed eggs and tsoureki. Before to eat the eggs, there is a tradition called tsougrisma. People have to hold their egg, tap the top against someone else’s egg to try to crack it. The last person with anun-cracked egg is considered the luckiest. Easter Sunday In some places this is a day for family reunion; in others it is a community celebration. For all, it is a time to gather around tables full of food (roasted lamb or goat, kokoretsi, olives, tzatziki, potatoes, pies, salads…) drinks as well as talks and dances. The tsougrisma is taking place again. In southern Messenia, people are going to the main squares to watch the saetapolemos (rockets without sticks) that men hold while the force of the explosions makes them jump as if they were dancing.
Easter Monday This is a national holiday, a day to rest. 17
TASTING GREECE
"I felt once more how simple and frugal a thing is happiness: a glass of wine, a roast chestnut, a wretched little brazier, the sound of the sea. Nothing else.� Kazantzakis
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GOOD TO KNOW • If you want to eat traditional Greek food ,taverns, ouzeri, mezedopolio or tsipouradiko are highly recommended. You will find explanations about these places in the next article. • The simplest taverns or ouzeris are -most of the time -the best. The same goes for the dishes: no need to be fancy as long as it is tasty!.
• As far as the author experienced, ouzeri-mezedopolio-tsipouradiko are places to drink and eventually eat mezes; taverns are places to eat and eventually drink. • Most of the time, Greeks are not using knives, bread could remplace some of their duties. • All around Greece, the international "fast food" (McDonald, Burger Kind,…) are not easy to find, they never managed to be as popular as in the others countries. The favorite fast-food in the country is the local one: souvlaki and gyros pita. • At bars and cafes, first a glass of water will be given to customers. There is also the habit of giving -for free - something to eat (potato chips, olives,…), an example among many others of the Greek hospitality. In restaurants and taverns sometimes a free dessert or fruits (watermelon for instance) might be given but it is not as usual as the “little something to eat” in cafes. • Bars and restaurants are closing when the last customers is leaving. Nobody will never be asked to leave. • Is it possible to stay for hours in a coffee places with only one beverage, nobody will be asked to leave neither. • Most of the time, when people are eating out, bread will be dropped off the table and charged without asking first. • Kafenio are (most of the time) men-only coffee places, where friends are gathering for hours to eat meze, drink and play backgammon. They could be found everywhere.
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Introduction to the Greek cuisine
The introduction to the Greek culture couldn’t be done without speaking about food. With the help of the knowledge acquired during the Kalamata Food Tour by Food Philosophy and the writer’s own journey through the local cuisine, this article will introduce the Greek cuisine. Hopefully, as a “starter” it will give the desire to taste and discover more.
Let’s immerge into the Greek way of eating During centuries the country has been in contact (through commercial exchanges but also domination) with many cultures, so the Greek cuisine might be seen as an historical book. Before bringing the food on the table, the Greek’s eating schedule needs to be explained. Everything concerning the meals is said to be late (by the Greek themselves). “The day starts with a cigarette and a coffee” is not just a joke. The breakfast (as the first meal included food) is usually taken at 9:00am or 10:00am dues to the late dinner. Three hours seems to be the key to catch the Greek rhythm: at 12:00 it is healthy snack (pasteli, bread, fruit…), at 3:00 it is lunch time, at 6:00 snack again and at 9:00 (or later) dinner time. During the weekend or retirement, snacks around 12:00 might also be metze with some alcohol and friends in an ouzeri. 20
Food is part of the culture, as well as a complete part of the Orthodox religion, which is also an important part of the Greek culture. Baptism, funeral, wedding, day of the church’s celebration, Christmas, Eastern…a special dish will always be shared for the occasion and/or a whole meal at the end. To name only few: dipples (typical fried sweets with honey and walnuts on top) are eaten during weddings, kokoretsi and magiritsa (both with inside parts of lambs) are eaten for Easter… Bread is an essential part of the Greek cuisine. Many choices are available: paximathia, Koulouri, brown bread, kristinia, breads for special days (as lagana for clean Monday), pita… To the author's point of view, the most Greeker ways to eat bread are puting some olive oil on it and to do “papara” (taking the sauce directly from the plates with bread). Bread could also be eaten with Greek dips as olive paste or tzatziki. The longer preservation of fried products -in comparaison to others products- made them popular before the fridges'era. If the salt is a good way, the olive oil has been the favorite one in Greece. Indeed olives (and their oil) are the Hellenic treasure: 3rd worldwide producer of olive oil and 1st consumer with 13kg per year per person! Kalamata could not be mentioned without speaking about its famous olives: a protected name which guarante the best quality thanks to the collection by hands! Feta cheese is a strong cliché abroad about Greece, but as well as Greeks do not dance sirtaki every morning, they do not eat only feta. Sfela and Graviera could be tested, they are two typical cheeses from the Kalamata’s area, both made from goat and sheep milk. Halloumi, Saganaki, Kefalotyri, anthotyro, mizithra are also kind of cheeses discovered by the author during her stay in Greece. The Greek yogurt has to be tasted during the Hellenic food journey. Some products could be added to the yogurt: the food of Gods aka honey, the symbol of Greek hospitality aka “spoon fruits” or the "energy giver "since Ancient Greece aka figs.
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Fruits and vegetables are part of the Greek cuisine. Thanks to its climate, Greece is producing many fruits and vegetables which can be bought fresh. Every season new products could be found, which is making the cuisine diversified. The author envisaged Greek cuisine -before to come- only about three main ingredients: tomato, olive and cucumber. The Greek salad is -of course - unmissable but, the Greek cuisine is much more: spinach, vlita (kind of spinach from the Taygetos mountain), all kind of beans (Fasolakia,mavromatika…), wine leaves, lentil, lemon, orange, mousmoula, figs… (the list is obviously uncomplete but the space is restricted!).
No one could pretend knowing the Greek cuisine without having tasted the sweets! For unregular customers, Greek pastries might seem really sweets due to an important use of sugar and/or honey and the taste of olive oil in some pastries might be surprising. However, new tastes does not mean untasty! The Turkish and Middle East influences are important among the Greek sweets: Baklava, kenafeh, loukoum, basboussa, halva… The phyllo pasta is mainly used for pastries and salty pies. Readers are challenged to find a bakery in Greece, which is not selling spanakotyropita or tiropita! Every bakery and area have their traditional pies (salty or sweet) made from phyllo pasta and olive oil and special ingredients. Each religious time has its special sweets, to name only few: Kourabiedes and melomacaronia mostly during Christmas time, Koulourakia and tsoureki (Greek brioche) for Eastern, etc... Individual portions of stuffed chocolate are a popular gift among Greece when someone is celebrating his/her Name Day.
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Could we speak about Greek culinary traditions without mentioning the Greek coffee? The author was used to filter coffee or “French coffee” as it is called in Greece. The preparation is a always the same: one teaspoon of coffee and then water have to be poured into the briki (the special pot to do a Greek coffee), stiring only once and heating slowly. When it is rising it is ready! Four types are existing: “sketos” without sugar the stronger and bitter, with one teaspoon of sugar the “metrios”, with 2 the “glykos” and with 3 the “vary glykos”. At the end, grounds will stay in the cup; it cannot be drank but dried it might say the fortune! Sitting for hours with one cup of coffee is part of the Greek way of enjoying life. Coffee is so important that a coffee could be delivered everywhere! If coffee is not your cup of tea, a warm local beverage could be drank loudly and slowly as well with friends and family! It is a “mountain tea” from Taygetos mount, which is said to care the cold, to relax and to help to digest. Speaking about plants, the Hellenic ground is giving many herbs and spices which are in the heart of the cuisine!
Visitors must forget about their own plate and the struggle when a “friend” ordered a salad and is taking the others' French fries! The custom in Greece -in ouzeri and taverns- is to order meze which are many dishes to share. Everybody is taking "a little bit of this and a little bit of that". Sharing is in the heart of family or friends' gathering around a table. Meze means "taste" or "a bite" as it is small plates of hot and warm dishes. Fried vegetables or fish; vegetable or cheese balls, dips, cooked vegetable, dishes with meat or fish... The list of meze is endless as it varies from the season and regions. It depends of the place but most of the time, it is possible to drink and eat enough for less than 10 euros! Ouzo, tsipouro and raki are perfectly going along with metze, as well as white (lefko) or red (kokino) wines. The meze table's spirit is about being together and enjoying the compagny, the food is the cherry on the topof the cake. 23
Tsipouradika in the area of Volos have the same spirit as ouzeri: sharing food in good compagny. However, in some of them the habit is to just order drinks and then, plates will be brought until the customer says stop. Clients do not choose what they will eat but they will taste Greek dishes they might not have choose on the menu! Experiencing a Greek buffet is something visitors have to do! During summer months, panigiri are organized in villages. These traditional festivals are celebrating the main Saint of the village. Taking part of it will allow guests to experience a religious celebration and the Greek way of enjoying together with music, dances, local wine and plenty of food.
Licking your lips at the prospect of tasting everything? It is time for you to try by yourself the Greek cuisine, adding your own discoveries to the unfinished list you just read! Would you be able to find your favorite Greek dish? This is a challenge the author failed to accomplish as the list her of favorite dishes is getting bigger and bigger‌ Would we dare to blame the Greek cuisine to be too good? It would be a shame! Now, "kali orexi" (enjoy your meal) and as the Greeks say and do, never forget to: "Eat as there is no tomorrow!" “ 24
The Greek cuisine oNE LEGEND Salty specialities FROM YOUR COUNTRY Gyros/γύρος is the Greek fast food. The main ingredient is meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Pork, chicken, or lamb traditionally but also chicken wrapped in bacon, veal beef... It is served wrapped in flatbread named "pita bread", with tomatoes, onions, tzatziki sauce, and sometimes french fries Souvlaki/σουβλάκι. This is the second version of the Greek fast food. Small pieces of meat and sometimes vegetables grilled on a skewer. Served in a plate with tzatziki and pita bread.
Kipriaki pita/κυπριακη πιτα (pita pocket bread), Cypriote pita bread open in the middle and stuffed with salad, sauce, tomatoes and french fries.
Pikilia/ποικιλία is one of the most popular dish in taverns. This is a variety of grilled and fried appetizers. In Kalamata, during summer season the one with meat, fish and French fries is on every table.
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*Speciality of Messinia region* Lalaggia/Λαλάγγια fried bread usually paired with feta cheese, meat but also delicious by itself. Two kind could be found: the hard one (see picture) and the soft one. Available all year in every messionian bakery. The most popular Greek snacks: • Koulouri/Κουλούρι(sesame bagels) • Kritsinia/Κριτσίνια (breadsticks)
Paximathia/παξιμάδι (rusk) is a twice baked bread. It could be eaten with dip or olive paste. Really hard, it should be humidified before to bite into. This is the first ingredient of Dakos.
Pita yia souvlaki/ Πίτα για σουβλάκι also called pita bread, it is used for gyros pita and also served with tzatziki and other dips.
Two Greek habits including bread: Toasting it and adding olive oil and herbs on it. "Papara/Παπάρα" is dunking it into sauce directly from the common plate.
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Spanakotiropita/ σπανακοτυρόπιτα is a pie made with spinach, feta, olive oil, salt and phyllo pasta.
Tiropita/ τυρόπιτα is a pie made of cheese, mostly feta cheese and phyllo pasta.
Depending of the region and the season, many different kind of pies could be found in the Greek bakeries. Pies for Greece are pizzas for Italy. To name few vegetarian more: patatopita/ πατατόπιτα, (potatoes pie), kolokithopita/ κολοκυθόπιτα (zuchini pie),... Meat pies could also be found. Among others: kreatopita/κρεατόπιτα (meat pie made with beef) and kotopita/ κοτόπιτα (chicken pie).
The little pies are called pitakia/ πιτάκια.
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Dakos/ντάκος is a dish made with wet Paximathia, tomatoes, feta cheese and herbs.
Horiatiki (Xoriatiki)/ Χωριατικη. (also known as the "Greek salad"). It is made of juicy tomatoes, fresh cucumbers, creamy feta cheese, virgin olive oil and black olives.
Lahanosalata/λάχανο σαλάτα is a traditional winter salad. It is going very well with roasted lamb or as a dish by itself. It is made of cabbage, carrots, olives, feta cheese and dressed with olive oil, lemon juice or red vinegar.
Bamies/μπάμιες (known as okras in English). They could be eaten as a salad with tomatoes, warm or with garlic sauce and bread.
Avgolemono/αυγολέμονο. The egg-lemon soup is, as it sounds, made with egg yolk and lemon juice. It ould be served with rice, vegetables, meat apart or added into.
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Kolokythokeftedes/Kολοκυθοκεφτεδες are zuchini and herbs fritters. Feta might also be added into the mix. Tzatziki or fava are really tasty alongside. They are sometimes called pumkin balls in menus, because they are smelling like the "cousin' vegetable. Domatokeftedes/τοματοκεφτέδες , the tomatoes fritters are also part of the Greek cuisine. Kolokythakia tiganita/ κολοκυθακια τηγανιτα are fried zuchini in batter. They are served with a dip (tzatziki, yogurt and cheese, tomato sauce...).
Fakes soupa /φακές σούπα is a lentils soup with onions, garlic, bay leaves, olive oil and red wine vinegar.
Fasolada/φασολάδα (picture) is a bean soup with vegetable and tomatoes. Fasolakia/ φασολακια green beans and potatoes braised in olive oil and tomatoes.
Fasolia mavramatika me spanaki/Φασόλια μαυρομάτικα με σπανάκι are black eyed peas stewed with spinach.
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*Speciality of Messinia region* Gournopoulo/ γουρνοπούλο is pork served with potatoes. Baked in the oven, the skin is crispky and the meat is melting into the mouth. Its name on English menu is "pork in the oven".
*Specialities of Messinia region* Loukanika me portokali/ λουκάνικα με πορτοκάλι are sausages with oranges and cumin. Siglino / Σύγκλινο is smoked pork with herbs from the mountains and salt.
Strapastada/ στραπατσάδα or also called kagianas/ Καγιανάς are scramble eggs with fresh tomatoes and feta.
Fish grilled with latholemono/ λαδολέμονο, a lemon and oil dressing, is a typical Greek way to enjoy fishes. Tiganita psaria/ τηγανητά ψάρια. Fried fishes are also popular. Kalamarakia tiganita/ Καλαμαράκια τηγανητά are fried squids.
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Pastitsio/παστίτσιο is made with ziti pasta, ground meat, spices, béchamel sauce and cheese.
Gemista/Γεμιστά are stuffed tomatoes and pepper with rice and accompagnied with feta cheese.
Kofto makaronaki me chtapothi/ Κόφτο μακαρονάκι με χταπόδι. Brased octopus with kofto pasta and tomato sauce.
Dolmades/ντολμάδες are stuffed vine/cabbage leaves with rice and sometimes meat. They are generally served cold with a garlic-yogurt sauce.
Moussaka/Μουσακάς is a baked dish made of juicy beef minced, eggplants, potatoes and creamy béchamel sauce
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Tzatziki/τζατζίκι refreshing sauce made of cucumber, creamy Greek yogurt and lemon juice.
Fava/φάβα is a purée of yellow split peas.
Melitzanosalata/Μελιτζανοσαλάτα is a dip of roasted eggplants, lemon juice, garlic and olive oil.
Pasta elias apo prasines elies/παστα ελιας από πράσινες ελιές. Paste made from green olives. Pasta elias apo elies pikilias kalamon/παστα ελιας από ελιές ποικιλίας Καλαμών. Paste made from Kalamatian olives. Speaking about the Greek cuisine without mentioning the olive oil would be like speaking about the history of Democracy without mentionning Ancient Greece. Elaiolatho/ελαιόλαδο. Olive oil is used to cook, to fry, to dress... 32
Feta kafteri/φετα καυτερή. Hot feta (or other cheese) baked with herbs, tomatoes and pepper.
Feta me phyllo/φετα με φύλλο is feta wrapped in phyllo dough, drizzled with honey, sesame seeds and baked until it gets soft inside and crunchy outside.
Tyrokroketes/τυροκροκέτες. Cheese croquettes are appreciated as appetizer with eventually a dip.
Saganaki/σαγανάκι is fried cheeses (from sheep or goats or both) served hot, juicy, crunchy outside and melting inside.
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The Greek cuisine oNE LEGEND Dishes for SPECIAL FROM YOUR OCCASIONS COUNTRY LENT Lagana/λαγάνα is bread without yeast made for Clean Monday.
EASTER Kokina avra/κόκκινα αυγά are red dyed eggs. They are used to play tsougrima at the beginning of the Holy Saturday and Easter Sunday's meals.
EASTER Magiritsa/μαγειρίτσα is a soup of lamb offals with eggs, lettuce leaves, onion, rice and lemon. Eaten the Holy Saturday.
EASTER Kokoretsi/Κοκορέτσι a dish made up of skewering seasoned lamb or goat offals, wrapped in intestines. It is roasted for hours before to be eaten on the Easter Sunday's lunch.
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The Greek cuisine oNE LEGEND Sweet specialities FROM YOUR COUNTRY Koulourakia/κουλουράκια are traditional butter cookies made with olive oil, scented with orange zest and sometimes topped with sesame seeds. Many shapes could be found: braid, rolling pin, fancy...
Moustokouloura/μουστοκούλουρα: grape must cookies.
Paximadia portokaliou/ παξιμάδια πορτοκαλιού are orange and olive oil scented biscuits.
Amigthalota/αμυγδαλωτά are almond sweets covered with powdered sugar. They could have pear shape or round with a full almond on the top.
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Mosaiko/μωσαικο or Kormos sokolata/κορμός σοκολάτας is a soft-crunchy dessert made of chocolate and biscuit chunks.
Croissant/κρουασάν are popular in Greece, especially the stuffed ones with chocolate.
Halvas/χαλβάς Σιμιγδαλένιος is a semolina pudding with raisins, orange, cinnamon...
Halvas me tahini/χαλβάς με ταχίνι or macethonikos halvas/μακεδονικός χαλβάς is a dessert made of sesame seeds tahini which could be flavored with pistachio, cocoa, nuts...
Pasteli/Παστέλι is a honey sesame bar, known as an healthy and nutritious snack since Ancient Greece. It could be enliven with oranges, nuts or dried fruits. Two versions are existing: strong (picture) or soft.
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Baklava/μπακλαβα is layers of phyllo pasta filled with honey, walnuts and sometimes pistachios. It could be a pie (picture) or in cylindric shape. In some places, the cylindric ones are filled with chocolate.
Kataïfi/καταϊφι is a cousin of Baklava: almond and walnut pastery in syrup with “shredded phyllo".
Galaktoboúreko/Γαλακτομπούρεκο is a pie with phyllo pasta and filled with a mix of milk, semolina and vanilla. The pie is drenched into syrup.
Bougatsa/μπουγατσα is a baked creamy custard pie.
Portokalopita/πορτοκαλοπιτα is a cake made of Greek yogurt, orange and cinnamon, drenched into syrup. Lemonopita/λεμονοπιτα is the same kind of cake but made of lemons. 37
Loukoumades/λουκουμάδες are made of fried dough and then dizzeled with honey or chocolate. They are also called Greek donuts or Greek honey puffs.
Touloubakia/Τουλουμπάκια are capsule-shaped pieces of dough deep fried, and then, dipped in a sweet syrup.
Diplota/διπλωτα. These wrapped sweets are common in Greece. Most of the time, could be found inside stuffed chocolate (with almond, nuts) or biscuits topped with chocolate. They usually are brough as a gift when Greeks are visiting someone, or bought for the Name Day. Moustalevria/μουσταλευριά is a pudding made of grape must, mixed with flour and cinnamon.
Tahini/ταχίνι is a dip made from sesame seeds. It could be used for salty or sweets dishes. Tahini with honey and tahini with cocoa are usually spread on bread.
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The Greek yogurt (Yaourti/γιαούρτι) is ticker than regular ones. It also has the double of protein, three time the satured fat, the half sodium and the half carbohydrate. Yaourti me Meli/ γιαούρτι με μέλι (with honey) and yaourti me frouta/ γιαουρτι με φρουτα (with fruits) are typical breakfasts and snacks. Siko/Σύκο is an emblematic fruit of Greece, reknown since Ancient Greece for its qualities as energyzer. Greeks are eating figs fresh or dried. Dried ones are usually eaten with walnut inside.
Fragkosiko/φραγκόσυκο (or prickly pear in English) are very common fruit. Delicious as long you know how to peel it without getting spines.
Mousmoulo/μούσμουλο (loquat in English) could be found in Greece.
Gliko tou koutaliou/Γλυκό του κουταλιού. The "spoon sweets" are the symbol of the Greek hospitality ("filoxenia" in Greek). All fruits and vegetables (eggplant, fig, raisin, quince, tomato...) could be preserved in think syrup and be served all year round. They perfectly go alongside Greek coffee, ice cream or with Greek yogurt. 39
The Greek cuisine oNE LEGEND Sweets forFROM SPECIAL YOUR OCCASIONS COUNTRY CHRISTMAS Melomakarona/Μελομακάρονα are honey walnut cookies made of cinnamon and cloves, soaked in honey-orange syrup and topped with brown sugar and walnuts CHRISTMAS Kourabies/κουραμπιές, or kourabiedes/ κουραμπιέδες are almond and butter cookies, sometimes stuffed with toasted almonds. Easy to spot, they are covered with plenty of icing sugar.. 1ST OF JANUARY Vasilopita/Βασιλόπιτα is a cake flavored with different scents depending of the region (orange, vanilla, mastic...). The person who is finding the hidden coin is told to be lucky all the new year around. WEDDING *Specialty of Messinia region* Diples/Δίπλες is dough rolled into long, thin strips fried in hot oil. Sugar or honey syrup and walnuts are topping it. EASTER Tsoureki/τσουρέκι is a sweet bread, flavored with mastic and mahlab.
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The Greek cuisine oNE LEGEND FROM YOUR COUNTRY Beverages Lefko krasi/λευκο κρασι is the name of white wine in Greece. It could be sold in glass or plastic bottles.
Kokkino krasi/ κόκκινο κρασί is the name for red wine in Greece. As the white one, it could be sold in plastic bottle in the farmer market.
Roze/ ροζέ is the Greek for rosé wine.
Inomelo/ οινόμελο or krasomelo/ Κρασομελο is the Greek mulled wine flavored with cinnamon, cloves and honey.
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Tsikoudia/τσικουδιά or raki/ρακί is a pomace (residue of the wine press) brandy typical of Crete. It is commonly offered as a digestive in the cretan tavernas. The pourcentage of alcohol by volume is between 25 and 35. The yeni raki (new raki) could have up to 45% of alcohol per volume. It is not similar to the Turkish raki. Rakomelo/ρακόμελο is mulled wine made with raki, honey and spices (cinnamon and cloves).
Tsipouro/τσίπουρο is a pomace brandy from the Greek mainland. The strongly distilled is at about 36-45% of alcohol per volume. The anis flavored tsipouro is not ouzo. The difference between tsipouro and raki is the place of production.
Ouzo/ούξο is made from white alcohol, mixed with herbs and spices (especially anis) and then distilled. The pourcentage of alcohol is between 38 and 50. It is served with ice and water and go perfectly alongside fishes.
Mastíkha/μαστίχα is a sticky liqueur seasoned with mastic (resin from the mastic tree of the Chios island).
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Metaxa/Μεταξά is a spirit, made of wine 2 times distilled. After the distillation, aged muscat wine is added and then, everything is infused with herbs and rose petals.
Elinikis cafe/ελληνικος καφε is unfiltered and strong coffee, prepared into a briki and served with foam on the top and grounds on the bottom of the cup. The most sugar ones is called "glyko", then comes the "metrio". Without sugar is the "sketo" and with milk it is "me gala". Nescafé Frappé Coffee: iced coffee made from instant coffee. Espresso freddo :iced espresso Cappuccino freddo: coffee with plenty of ice, topped with frothy cold milk
*Specialty of Kalamata area* Tsai tou vounou/τσάϊ του βουνού is a mountain tea from (the mountain) Taygetos. Boiled and drank warm with honey is said to heal the cold, to help to relax and to digest.
Xymos portokaliou/χυμος πορτοκαλιου is the fresh orange juice Portokalatha/Πορτοκαλάδα is a soda with orange flavour. Loux is one of the most popular brand.
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kalamatian way of life
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INTRODUCTIon to kalamata The town itself Kalamata is a medium size city between Taygetos mount and the mediteranean sea, located into the Messinian bay. Second city of Peloponnese with more than 59.000 inhabitants, Kalamata is hosting an hospital, an airport and a national/regional/local bus station. The beaches are at about 25 minutes by walking from the city center and easily reached by bus. Two bus lines are covering the whole city. Every Wednesday and Saturday the farmers market is taking place, it is an unmissable rendezvous for local fruits and vegetable lovers! In Kalamata, plenty of places could be found to eat traditional Greek/Messinian food, to taste the famous and delicious kalamatian olives, to listen traditional Greek music, to live the Greek way of enjoying life! Dance is in the heart of the city, not only for the reknown “Kalamata Dance Festival� but also with the numerous dance schools and organizations, events in bars and clubs... Traditional Greek dances are danced at every events or even in tavernas or bars when traditional Greek music is played. Themost typical of the area is "Vassiliki". In summer, the heart of the city is moving from the city center to the beach side. Many events are taking place around the city all year.
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The Kalamatians Kalamata is a family friendly and touristic city. Depending of the places you will go out you will meet students (the city is hosting an University), young workers, young adults, families, older people… Up to you to find places where the people you prefer to hang out with are. During the summer season Kalamata is attracting many tourists. Kalamatians are generally very helpful and you will have the opportunity to experience the Greek hospitality. As it is a touristic place, many people are speaking very well English and most of the people are speaking at least some words. It is, however, really appreciated when foreigners are trying to speak Greek –at least some words-.
The weather The warm season is starting from May/June to September/October. The hottest months are July and August with temperature higher than 30°C. Precautions are needed to avoid sunburns and sunstrokes. Kalamata is also known for its high level of humidity. During summer air conditioning is essential. From October to April, the average outside temperatures are between 9 and 18°C. There are often storms and rain might be really intense. Even if the outside temperatures are medium, the inside ones might be surprisingly cold. In fact, houses are mostly made to keep the fresh air, not the warm. Moreover, heating systems are really expensive in Greece. Even if it is difficult to believe it but rain coat, warm winter clothes (jacket but mostly inside warm clothes as sweaters, long-sleeves tops, waterproof shoes…) are needed. Snow might also be experienced (every 3-4 years) as well as sand storms from Africa. However, as the climate changes it is difficult to predict the weather for the next seasons.
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A U t h o r ' s fav o r i t e p l a c e s TAVERNA and Estiatorio (restaurants) PLATANOS/ ΠΛΆΤΑΝΟΣ Street: Artemidos 84 In this ouzeri/kafenio, every Monday and Friday nights you could enjoy traditional Greek music while eating delicious dishes. Don't forget to try: Pork in the oven/Gournopoulo KRINI / ΚΡΗΝΗ Street: Evaggelistrias 40 In this taverna you will enjoy the Greek way of enjoying tasty traditional food. Don't forget to try: the fried zuchini/ τηγανιτα κολοκυθακια tiganita kolokithakia I MOURIA / Η ΜΟΥΡΙΑ Street: Καλιπολεως 10 Kalipoleos One of the most renowned fish taverna! To find a place to sit and enjoy your lunch, you should arrive early because the place is very famous. Don't forget to try: the fried squids/ Kalamarakia tiganita O TZIMIS / Ο ΤΖΙΜΗΣ Plateia Eikostis Tritis Martiou In the heart of the old town, this grill house is renowned for (one of) the best gyros pita in town for 2,2e. Don't forget to try: the gyros pita with all the traditional ingredients. 47
TA ROLLA / ΤΑ ΡΟΛΛΑ Street: Spartis 53 In this taverna-restaurant you can enjoy traditional homemade food. Don't forget to try: the okra salad / bamies salad PERASMA / ΠΕΡΑΣΜΑ Street: 57 Nedontos Street There you could try traditional homemade food. You will see all the dishes in front of you, the most difficult will be to choose... hopefully you could mix. Don't forget to try: the moussaka LADOLEMONO / ΛΑΔΟΛΕΜΟΝΟ Street: , Ipapantis 3 Restaurant located in the old town where you could try burgers, falafels, salads... Don't forget to try: the falafel with zuchini sauce VIETNAM / ΒΙΕΤΝΑΜ Street: Poliviou 9 Here you can enjoy delicous street food (falafels, burgers, fish & chips... ) and a friendly atmosphere. Don't forget to try: the amazing falafels LIOPITA / ΛΙΟΠΙΤΑ Street: Iatropoulou 12A A numerous choice of pies made only to please your taste buds. It is better to go there as soon as possible during the morning, otherwise you will not have choice anymore. Don't forget to try: all of them 48
AUthor's favorite pastries and bakeries Zacharoplastiki and fournos LAMPO / LABOU / ΛΑΜΠΟΥ Street: Methonis 36 // Vasileos Georgiou 3 // Stadiou 3 All around the city you will find bakeries of the brand. It has been recommended by locals to the author. Don't forget to try: Lalagia and pasteli CHRYSANTI/ ΧΡΥΣΑΝΘΗ Street: Ithomis 8 The delicious smell will guide you directly into the bakery... There, you will have the opportunity to taste home made sweets (mostly) and salty pies. Don't forget to try: tsoureki or croissant with chocolate MELTINOS / ΜΕΛΤΙΝΟΣ Street : Aristodimou 55 If you come early you will have plenty of choices of salty pies and koulouri (chocolate, cheese...) for friendly prices! Don't forget to try: the chocolate stuffed koulouri FOURNOS / ΦΟΥΡΝΟΣ Street : junction of mpenaki 16 and Agiou Ioannou In the heart of the old town, you will find this bakery. Good luck to resist to the temptation of trying everything! Don't forget to try: the donuts (or soft lalagia topped with sugar). 49
AUthor's favorite places to ch i ll CAFE SANTE Street: Othonos square THE (author's favorite) spot in town. A friendly, cozy, pleasant, welcoming place, perfect to enjoy the Greek way of life. The owner, Fotis is amazing! Don't forget to try: The burger, for 3,5e, is the best the author ever tried! CHAI Bio Coffee & Tea Bar Street : Kolokotroni 7 Custumers are immersed in a relaxing atmosphere, welcomed by the friendly owner. Beverages and food pleased taste buds while the decoration brings inner peace. Don't forget to try: all the teas. MAMRA/ ΜΑΜΡΑ Street: Psaron & Ipirou 2 Good music, tasty food, nice beverages, Mamra is a great place to spend your nights out. Groups are often invited to play. Don't forget to try: the rakomelo. TRICKY Street : Navarinou 161 Foots in the sand, the melody of the sea in the ears and a cocktail in the hand... Perfect combo for a perfect summer day or night. Don't forget to try: the home made lemonade. 50
BLOSSOM OWL Street: Valaoritou 7 Always busy, Blossom Owl is renowned. Sweet or salty foodies will be pleased...on the condition they are able to read Greek on the menu.. Don't forget to try: the hot chocolate with cinnamon and pepper. STOLIDI ENA / ΣΤΟΛΙΔΙ ΕΝΑ Street: Aristodimou 97 A peaceful tea house to spend an afternoon in good compagny (but a bit more expensive than the others places mentionned). Do not forget to try: the club sandwich with the salad (green salad, figs, pomegranade...) APOLAISI/ ΑΠΟΛΑΥΣΗ Street: Kritis 22 This cake shop is famous for its ice creams. For 1,30e customers could choose 1 ice-cream cone with one flavour (or 2 little spons of 2 different flavours) plus topping. Delicious and cheap, this is the perfect deal. GELATO FOLLIA Street: Navarinou 121 Eating a pistaccio ice cream by walking next to the sea is an unmissable! Other flavours are available but the pistaccio one is particularly tasty!
ATHANASIOU / ΑΘΑΝΑΣΙΟΥ Street: Navarinou 45 All around the city, you could find this cake shop and café brand. As in all the Greek patisseries little ice-creams could be bought. In the shop located on the seaside, big tasty ice-creams could be bought as well., 51
AUthor's others favorite places MASSAGGIO Street: Christou Koumantou 8 A perfect deal to relax by spending few money: 10euros for 45mn of massage! m.u Messinia Union Street : Iatropoulou 10 The shop of the Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Messinia. Olive oil, pasteli, olives, alcohol, shampoo, shower gel, creams... many products with local ingredients. CHRISTOPOULOS/ΧΡΙΣΤΟΠΟΥΛΟΣ Street: Formionos 5 This distillery has been recommended by local. In glass or plastic bottle, Greek alcohol could be bought, as well as local products. KOSTEAS /ΚΟΣΤΕΑΣ Street : Nikitara 6 Kosteas' products (ouzo, tsipouro, masticha...) could be found all around Kalamata but the shop of the brand is at this adress.
KALAMATA FOOD TOUR by Food Philosophy https://kalamata.tours/ Long or short versions of the Food Tour will give participants the occasion to discover (and taste) the Greek cuisine and to learn about traditions thanks to a amazing guide. Κέντρο Νέων Καλαμάτας /Youth Centre of Kalamata Street: Plateia Othonos A friendly place to learn, to discover, to share, to party, to meet people... The place where everything is possible. 52
exploring GREECE
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tRAVELLI N G AROU N D GREECE Means of transportation Car, bus, motorbike, hitchhiking, plane, train, ferry boat... they are many choices to travel in Greece, depending on the budget and the driving licence's ownership or not. The easiest way to travel is the car, even though- as it was told before- the price of the rent, the tolls and the gasoline (especially during the summer season) might be high. The second mean of transportation used by the author, during her stay, was the bus. This is the most popular way of travelling across the country. KTEL is the compagny, which is connecting towns through Greece. It is important to know that rentng a car from the center of Athens is more expensive than renting one from the aiport.
The author's travels during her stay Even though, for economical and organizational reasons it is not always easy to travel around the country, it is a "thing to do" during your stay! If an advices could be given: no need to go to the most famous places, all parts of the country are wonderful and do not wait (spring, summer) before to travel. The next articles will be about the authors' destinations during her 11 Greek months.Pictures, some informations will be given, as well as -when it will be relevant and/or possible - the price, and the mean of transportation from Kalamata. The main accomodations were at friends', couchsurfing, airbnb and hotels. 54
MAINLAND
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Peloponnese
Ο Πελοπόννησος
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Vo i do ki lia beach Η
Παραλια βοιδοκοιλια
Description At 10km from Pylos could be found Voidokilia, the beach in the shape of the Greek letter "omega". It is interesting to first reach the Palaiokastro to have a wonderful view on the beach and then, going down to the beach by passing in Nestor's Cave. Behind Voidokilia is the Gialova Lagoon, a protected area which is hosting many birds.
From Kalamata 56,6km - 1H09 by car
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PYLOS To Πύλο From Kalamata 55,2km By car 1h
Description A place you could stop for a drink before/ after a trip in Voidokilia or Methoni.
M ETH ON I Η Μεθώνη Description The venetian fortress is the place to see in Methoni. The entrance is 2e without student card and it is closed on Mondays.
From Kalamata 62,9km By bus 1h40 - 6,70e one way. Be aware of a possible 1h30 stop in Pylos in the way MethoniKalamata 58
Mystras
Ο Μυστράς NOT TO BE MISSED
Description The old town of Mystras, built in 1249 is hosting a Byzantine castle and Byzantine churches. Visitors are invited to walk around the place until they reach the top and admire the view. Known as the most important Byzantine monument in Greece, Mystras could be also seen as an History book about Greece with its marks of the Venitians, Franks, Savs, Turks, Albanian occupations.
From Kalamata 51km by mountain road 98km by highway From Sparta 2,6km 59
Elafonisos
Ο Ελαφόνησος
Description This small island, 10 mn from the coast with ferry boat is known for the turquoise waters, the sandy beaches and the fishes. Simos beach (Σίμος Παραλία) -located in the island- is one of the most beautiful around Greece. From Kalamata 156km by mountain road 208km by highway. The author went with Trigilidas Travel Agency 60
MONEMVASIA
Η Μονεμβασιά NOT TO BE MISSED
From Kalamata 139km by mountain road 185km by highway The author went with Trigilidas Travel Agency
Description The Castle town of Monemvasia is located in a huge sea rock. The name means "single passage" because it is connected to the mainland by one path. Walking into the village and its small streets and going up to the church Agia Sofia (at the top of the rock) is giving unforgettable memories. 61
EPI DAVROS TH EATRe
Ο Επίδαυρος From Kalamata 166km From Nafplio 23,4km by car or by bus
Description The theatre of Epidavros is reknown for its acoustic and preservation. It was located in the sanctuary of Asclepius, the God of medecine. It is highly recommended to go to the site to see a theater play.
Nafpli o
Το Ναύπλιο
Description Capital of Greece from1823 to 1894, Nafplio is today one of the most romantic city in Greece.
From Kalamata 145km by car or with a KTEL bus. 62
POLYLIMNIO WATERFALLS
Καταράκτες Πολυλίμνιο
From Kalamata Located at Charavgi, 32.4km from Kalamata, it could be reached by car in about 50 minutes and then, from the parking to the first lake it is 10 minutes of walking. By bus, ask at the KTEL bus station which bus is stopping at "Kazarma" (καζαρμα) and at what time are passing the buses to come back. From"Kazarma" to the first lake, it is 55 minutes of walking (without shadows). In Spring 2018 it costed in total 6,60.
NOT TO BE MISSED Description A hidden turquoise paradise classified by "outdoor-activities.gr", in the top 11 of the best waterfalls around Greece. As the Greek translation means, "many lakes" will be seen. Some are easily accessible, some others need to be more sportive. Before to go: -checking the weather, -taking good shoes (no flipflops) -having enough water and food. 63
TEMPLE OF APOLLO EPICURIUS
Ο ναός Επικουριος Απολλων Βασσαι Description A temple dedicated to the God of healing located in the mountains. The temple itself and the view are breathtaking. A sacred place with a mystic atmosphere. Before to go it should be known the temple is covered by a white tent to protect it from the elements.
From Kalamata Oichalia and the archeological site of Bassae are at 89km.
Neda WATERFALLS
ΟιΚαταρράκτεςΤηςΝέδας Description Neda is a river, which is passing through gorges where people could swin in fresh and blue waters, in the heart of nature. They are also classified by "outdoor-activities.gr" into the best waterfalls in Greece. From Kalamata 70,7km From the temple of Apollo Epikourius 23,5km The author went with a kalamatian hiking club 64
Athens
Η Αθήνα
Neighbourhoods From Kalamata 239km By bus: 24,30e, it is recommended to take the "express" and to buy both ways together to have a little reduction. Two stops are possible: Kifissos bus station (practical to take the bus to the airport) or Eleonas metro station (except for the last bus which is not stopping there.). Car and plane are also possible transportations to reach Athens from Kalamata. 65
ACROPOLIS
Η Ακρόπολη
The New Acropolis museum and then the Acropolis itself are unmissable. The first is a perfect way to understand the latter, its glory, its purpose, its history. The view on the Acropolis from the museum is unforgettable. After, inside the "holy rock" visitors could feel the power of the place in Ancient Greece and listen to the stories it has to tell about all the previous centuries. Just next to the upper entrance to the archeological site, the rock called Areopagus, is giving breathtaking view on Athens. A nice spot to see sunrise and sunset. The Acropoli metro station is offering surprising pictures of the objects found during the building of the athenian's metro.
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PLAKA Η Πλάκα
This neighbourhood is located under the Acropolis. The narrow streets, the ruins, the colors are offering a charming atmosphere. The rich history of Athens could be seen while walking in Plaka: Roman Agora, Byzantine churches and the view on the Ancient Agora. During the visit of the area, a place has been tested and approved by the author: Yiasemi cafe-bistrot (Mnisikleous 23). A cosy place to enjoy Greek food and chill in the heart of Athens. If the visitor dare to lost her/himself in the little streets and going up randomnly, s/ he might enter into Anafiotika Αναφιώτικα. This neighbourhood inside Plaka is the replica of Anafi, an Aegan island. During the 19th century, islanders came in Athens to work. They settled in the cheapest rocky area where they built houses as they were used to...which created a small island down to the Acropolis. From the Roman agora, visitors are invited to follow Aiolou, a commercial street full of food, souvenirs and clothes.
NOT TO BE MISSED
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MONASTIRAKI
Το Μοναστηράκι Old neigbourhood of Athens with a view on the Acropolis, reknown for its Flea markets.
PSYRI Η Ψυρρή
Popular area of Athens, located in the old city, Psyri (or Psyrri, Psiri, Psirri) became recently a famous neighbourhood to go out.
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SYNTAGMA
Το Σύνταγμα
The metro station is the first point of interest in the area. The wall with all the strates into Athens' floor, the objets and the mosaic exhibit are showing the huge city's history. One exit of the station is the busy Syntagma square, the other (at the opposite side of the road) are the Greek Parliement (Old Royal Palace) and the National Garden. The main attraction in the area is the "change of the national guard" every day, at every hour sharp. The most important change is taking place on Sundays at 11:00am. The Evzone unit is guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The traditional clothes including the skirt of 400 folds related to the 400 years under the Ottoman's domination are worn.
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m OU NT lYCABETTUS
Ο Λυκαβηττός
Description The 277m hill, in the middle of the city is a perfect spot to watch the sunrise and the sunset on the capital of Greece.
M OU NT PARN ITHA
Η Πάρνηθα
Description A natural reserve with the higher elevation of 1,413 at about 45mn from the center of Athens. The Bafi/Mpafi (Μπαφι) refuge located in the mountain is a haven of peace.
NOT TO BE MISSED
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CENTRAL GREECE
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nafpaktos
Ο Ναύπακτος
Description Described by "visitgreece.gr" as one of the most romantic destination around Greece, it is reknown for its venetian port and castle.
From Kalamata 241km By bus : -Kalamata-Patras -Patras-Nafpaktos
GALAXI D I Το Γαλαξίδι Description A second romantic Greek town according to "visitgreece.gr", Galaxidi used to be a naval town. The author went there for the traditional "colored flour fight" or "alevromoutzouromata" on Clean Monday.
From Kalamata 311km From Nafpaktos 66km From Delphi 31,8km 72
D ELPH I Οι Δελφοί
Description The sanctuary of Delphi, located in Mount Parnassus, was the center of the world. The breathtaking view and the mystical atmosphere will take visitors back to the glory time of the site. The visit of the museum is helping to better understand the sanctuary itself.
NOT TO BE MISSED
From Kalamata 354km By bus: -Kalamata-Patras -Patras Delphi or -Kalamata Athens -Athens Delphi From Athens: 184km
LIVAD EIA ΗΛιβαδειά Description Crossed by the Erkynas river, the center of the city is a peaceful place to enjoy the Greek way of life. The mountainous area is offering green landscapes. The city is located in the center of many beautiful places. From Kalamata 309km To Athens: 141km To Delphi : 45,8km To Meteora: 235km 73
THESSALY
Οι Θεσσαλοί 74
ORLIAS WATERFALLS
Καταρράχτες Ορλιάς
Located in the down part of the Mount Olympus (after the village of Dion), the orlias waterfalls are classified in the top 11 of the best waterfalls in Greece by "outdooractivities.gr". A magical place to swin in fresh waters, said to be Zeus' baths. The Mount Olympus, home of the 12 Greek Gods is also a perfect place to hike. A visit at the Olympus National Park Information Center is highly recommended, the exhibition which is taking place is letting visitors amazed.
NOT TO BE MISSED From Kalamata 579km From Athens 353km From Thessaloniki 90km 75
METEORA Τα Μετέωρα The Meteora are both a rock formation which seems to have felt from the sky and an ensemble of Orthodox monasteries. The breathtaking site (close to the village of Kastraki) is on the World-Heritage list. The author visited 3 of the 6 most important monasteries and recommends the biggest: The Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron and one of the tinest: The Holy Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas. Visitors should wear appropriate clothes (Monks and Sisters are still living in -separate- monasteries) and good shoes to climb all the stairs.
NOT TO BE MISSED
From Kalamata 577km From Athens 439 or 358km From Thessaloniki 238km Easiest way to reach it, is by car
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MACEDONIA
Η Μακεδονία 77
thessaloniki
Η Θεσσαλονίκη THE city recommended to the author by Greeks! Walking in the streets, chilling in the seaside path, admiring the monuments on the way, enjoying the nightlife's atmosphere...many pleasant things to do in Thessaloniki! There are also many things to eat as it is considered as the gastronomic capital of Greece. To name only few places (the most recommended by Greeks): the bakery Terkenlis (τερκενλης) for the trigona panoramatos (Τριγωνα Πανοράματος) phyllo pasta triangles filled with custard or the tsoureki filled with chocolate or chestnut (Τσουρεκι με σοκολατα ή καστανο). The taverna Tsir Tsir Meze (26 Ermou) has been tested and approuved!
From Kalamata: 662km By car, plane or bus From Athens 437 or 418km By car, plane, bus or train 78
CRETE The biggest greek island
Η Κρήτη
NOT TO BE MISSED From Athens By plane (possibility to find cheap flights) or ferry boat. 79
CHAN IA Τα Χανιά Description The venitian harbour, the narrow colorful streets, the weather, the charming old town....will make visitors falling in love.
BALOS Lagoon
Ο Μπάλος
Description 56km from Chania (near Kissamos), the lagoon is wonderful with its fifty shades of blue. Visitors will be speachless. Balos could be reached by car, however tourists must be aware of the 30 minutes roadtrip without asphalt. From the parking there is still a long way to walk (with ups and downs). Boats are a another way to reach this blue heaven.
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ELAFO N ISI BEACH
Η παραλία Ελαφονησί
Description As it is one of the 25 best beaches in the world, according to "Tripadvisor," Elafonisi is an highly touristic place. Elafonisi is both an island and a beach on the main island of Crete. The pink and soft sand is making the site magical. It is located at 75km from Chania, near Inachori.
KED RO DASOS BEACH
Η παραλία Κεδρόδασος Description Close to Elafonisi (2,7km) Kedrodasos (located in Pelekanos) is a haven of peace. Still wild, visitors will have to take a road without asphalte to reach the parking and then walk.
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more amazing places Eleven months were not enough to visit all the recommended places in Greece. The readers will find, gathered in this page, others sites the author would have liked to visit during her stay. This list is obviously unfinished and need to be completed. Peloponesse • Ancient Messinia/Η Αρχαία Μεσσήνη • Caves of Diros /Το Σπήλαια Διρού • Mani Peninsula /Η Μάνη (roadtrip highly recommended) • Olympie /Αρχαιολογικός Χώρος Ολυμπίας Ionian Islands • Lefkada /Η Λευκάδα • Ithaki /Η Ιθάκη • Zakynthos /Ο Ζάκυνθος Epirus • Ioannina /Η Ιωάννινα Macedonia • Halkidiki /Η Χαλκιδική, more precisely Sarti beach/παραλιες σαρτη at Sithonia Attica • Sounion /Το Σούνιο • Hydra /Η Ύδρα Islands of the Aegan sea • The Cyclades • The Dodecanese Islands • The North Aegan Islands • The Saronic Islands • The Sporades 82
Useful links About Greece http://www.visitgreece.gr/ https://www.discovergreece.com/en http://greekreporter.com/ About food http://cookmegreek.blogspot.com http://www.mygreekdish.com/ http://www.thegreekglutton.com/ Kalamata food tour: https://kalamata.tours/ About traveling in Greece Travel Agency based in Kalamata Free walking tours in Athens KTEL bus Messinia The subjets have been choosen by the author herself according to her experiences. She did not receive anything from the compagnies quoted. The contents have been mainly writen from the author's knowledges, some extra informations have been taken mainly from visitgreece, wikipedia. or the other websites quoted. The pictures belong to the author's except: p.7 culturetaste/p.11
tMedCalc/ p.18 Caudron/p.20 wikipedia/ p.25 google image, takeaway.com, cutterlight / p.26 discovergreece, googleimage, eatyourslefgreek/ p.27chefkoch.de, pinterest, sintayes.gr, socraticfood, geniuskitchen/p.28 realgreekrecipes, tripadvisor, akispetretzikis/p.29 Caudron, socraticfood, pinterest/p.30 mylittleexpatkitchen/ p.31 recipegirl, pintinterest, syntages.me, google image/ p.32thewanderlustkitchen, verygoodrecipes, greektasteonline/ p.34 the greekway/p.35 chefsimon, fillepatissiere/ p.36 pinterest, frdreamstime, pinterest, boro, google image/ p.37 geniuskitchen, Caudron, wholesale.hellenicgrocery, freshharvest / p.38 medlabgr, mygreekdish, amazon, pinterest, we-love-crete/ p.39 ecocook, google image, zitronenundolivenoel/ p.40 dimitrisskarmoutsos, pinterest/ p.41 apollowineandspirits, botswanayouth, drinks.seriouseats, greece-is / p.42 rentalcenter-crete, mylittlegreekfoodbook, ouzovillas, google image/ p.43 drinksupermarket, chowhound, en-wikipedia, mynutrihealth / p.48 kalamatain /p.50 facebook/ p.51 archilovers/ p.52 kalamata. tours/ p.64 and 73 visitgreece + all the maps are coming from google image.
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Personal project EVS 2017/201 8
The volunteer responsible for this publication is hosted in Greece in the framework of the European Erasmus+ programme, KA1/ youth - European Voluntary Service. This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.