2021
| VOL 77
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ISSUE 4
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KANSASMAG.COM
HIDDEN-GEM HIKES Five Trails to Explore
A L S O I N T H I S I S S U E // Cowboy Polo: A Flint Hills Tradition // A Big 50 for Sedgwick County Zoo The Growing Appetite for Kansas Soy // National Spotlight on Lake Kanopolis // Railroad Adventures Sod Home Histories // Harvey House Heritage // and more!
Chanute
• Martin and Osa Johnson Safari Museum • Chanute Art Gallery • Summit Hill Gardens Soap Shop • Chanute Historical Museum • Wright Brothers-Octave Chanute Memorial Sculpture • Howard’s Toys for Big Boys Automotive Museum • Cardinal Drug Store Old-Fashioned Soda Fountain 21 N. Lincoln ~ 620-431-3350 information@chanutechamber.com www.chanutechamber.com
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WHAT’S IN THESE PAGES
features
38
Hidden Hiking Gems Exploring some of the state’s less-traveled trailways
The Game of Kings (and Cowboys) A Flint Hills ranch keeps a rougher version of polo alive
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KANSAS! MAGAZINE | 2021 ISSUE 4
PHOTOGRAPH Jason Dailey
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Find your
e c u d o r P h s e r F arm
F
at
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WHAT’S IN THESE PAGES
departments
KANSAS DETAILS 10 Cuisine Fine Food and Good Eats
10
12 Heartland People and Places that Define Us
PHOTOGRAPHS (FROM TOP) courtesy Kansas Historical Society, Michael Pearce, courtesy K-State Research & Extension, Reno County
14 Culture Arts and Experiences 16 Kansas Air The Freshness of Outdoor Life
16
18 Kansas Made Must-have Local Items
29 Shared Blooms Kansas demonstration gardens welcome visitors who enjoy seeing and learning about which plants and flowers thrive in each region of the state 32 Taste of Kansas: Soy in the Mix Kansas officials work to promote soy in recipes, exports and more
IN EVERY ISSUE
20 Lens A Conversation with KANSAS! Photographers
7 Extra Details 8 From the Editor 58 KANSAS! Gallery 64 #KansasMag
22 The Kansan Authentic life in the Sunflower State 24 Reasons We Love Kansas Celebrating Unique Attractions 26 Must See Upcoming Events to Enjoy
WIDE OPEN SPACES
29
ON THE COVER Writer Michelle R. Terry explores Lehigh Portland Trails and other hidden hiking gems across Kansas. Photograph by Jonathan Adams.
2021 ISSUE 4 | KANSAS! MAGAZINE
5
ion t a r o m e m m o C h 200 t ta Fe Trail of the San
Kansas Tourism, a division of the Kansas Department of Commerce
Andrea Etzel
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Laura Kelly GOVERNOR
Aug 27 & 28
David Toland
Military on the Santa Fe Trail
Mormon Battalion, 8th Infantry, Buffalo Soldiers
Aug 28
for more details
SantaFeTrail200.com
Grillin' on the Trail
KC sanctioned BBQ contest
sept 4
LT. GOVERNOR & SECRETARY OF COMMERCE
Bridgette Jobe
TOURISM DIRECTOR
541.561.1788 Santafetrail200 on Facebook
DAR Madonna of the Trail Trudge Wear your long dress and boots and experience the trek of long ago
sept 17-19 Rendezvous at Council Grove
• Voices of the Wind People Pageant - 7 p.m. Friday & Saturday nights • Mountain Man Rendezvous - all day Friday & Saturday • Wagon Show - all day Friday and Saturday • Faith on the Santa Fe Trail - Sunday morning
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KANSAS! (ISSN 0022-8435) is published five (5) times per year by the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612; (785) 296-3479; TTY Hearing Impaired: (785) 296-3487. Periodical postage paid at Topeka, KS, and at additional mailing offices. Newsstand price $5 per issue; subscription price $20 per year; $36 for two years. All prices include all applicable sales tax. Please address subscription inquiries to: Toll-free: (800) 678-6424 KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146 Email: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com | Website: www.KansasMag.com POSTMASTER: Send address change to: KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146.
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Please mail all editorial inquiries to: KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612 email: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com The articles and photographs that appear in KANSAS! magazine may not be broadcast, published or otherwise reproduced without the express written consent of Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism or the appropriate copyright owner. Unauthorized use is prohibited. Additional restrictions may apply.
IT’S ALL IN THE “EXTRA”
details
KEEP KIND, KANSAS!
Just as we were preparing to go to press, we learned that Lucas won one of the Top-5 spots in USA Today’s readers’ selections for Best Small Town Arts Scene. Lucas, with a population of approximately 400 people, was the smallest of the Top-5 towns and placed fourth, just behind Gatlinburg, Tennessee, and just ahead of Eureka Springs, Arkansas. Cities up to populations of 30,000 people were eligible for the category. USA Today noted Lucas’ artistic attractions such as the Garden of Eden, Fork Art Park, Bowl Plaza and Miller’s Park, and singled out Lucas Grassroots Arts Center, a one-of-a-kind museum featuring works of self-taught artists. Even if you have been to Lucas before, this summer will be a great opportunity to return as the Lucas Grassroots Arts Center hosts Flying Free, an exhibition celebrating its 25th anniversary and highlighting some of the most intriguing and inspiring works in the museum’s collection. For more information and visiting hours, see grassrootsart.net.
TOP-5 LUCAS!
PHOTOGRAPH courtesy Grassroots Art Center
Even if you have been to Lucas before, this summer will be a great opportunity to return as the Lucas Grassroots Arts Center hosts Flying Free, an exhibition celebrating its 25th anniversary and highlighting some of the most intriguing and inspiring works in the museum’s collection. around the state 26 Stockton 46 Rooks County 10 Florence
15 Osborne County 19 Overbrook 25 Carona
For the first time in over a year, we are preparing an edition of this magazine with optimistic confidence in the fact that planned events will happen on schedule and that most locations featured will be operating at near-full capacity. This past year has been a difficult year for many Kansas towns and Kansas attractions, and we eagerly encourage you to resume exploring the state and enjoying daytrips or longer excursions. Please keep in mind that everyone came through the pandemic with different experiences, and that some areas and people will choose to proceed with caution during these months of transition. Let’s be kind, understanding and respectful of one another, as well as of guests to the state while we open up for summer fun.
POEMS AND BIRDS
Kansas Tourism is proud to be one of the official sponsors of Words of a Feather, a poetry chapbook featuring poems and illustrations about birds and Kansas wildlife. The work, which released in May, was edited by Kansas poet Megan Kaminski and spearheaded by Humanities Kansas. For more information, see humanitieskansas.org.
2021 ISSUE 4 | KANSAS! MAGAZINE
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A hello FROM OUR EDITOR
A Breath of Fresh Air Summer has arrived with the intensity of an afternoon thunderstorm raging across the Kansas prairie. It’s been anything but subtle. Even with the temperatures rising, and the humidity building, I still find myself craving to be outdoors. Opting for early sunrise hikes while the air is still cool. Finding calmness in the morning sounds of nature. Taking in a late-night show of dancing fireflies at the lake. As I began to make my summer plans, one word repeated over and over—connect. Connect with family and friends. Connect with myself. Connect again to the joy I get from traveling. Since May, I’ve spent a good chunk of time on the road exploring our state. And I’m not the only one. Walking down main streets and through downtowns, you’ll notice restaurants and shops are more lively than they’ve been for a good long while. Events are popping up and attractions are welcoming travelers again. If you’re as ready to explore as I am, don’t miss writer Michelle Terry’s story Hidden Hiking Gems (page 38). Michelle provides ready-made hiking adventures from the western High Plains to the sand hills of central Kansas, covering all terrains and fitness levels. Speaking of hidden gems, did you know cowboys played polo (page 48)? If you’re from the Flint Hills or have spent time at the Flying W Ranch, then the answer is probably yes. To all of us who didn’t know, the (not so) secret is out. For the rest of my summer and beyond, my goal is to continue down the path of connecting and exploring. Traveling with purpose, eating delicious food without guilt, meeting others with a smile, and supporting everything local.
ANDREA ETZEL
facebook.com/KansasMagazine
EDITOR, KANSAS! MAGAZINE
KansasMagazine (get spotted; use #kansasmag to tag us)
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KANSAS! MAGAZINE | 2021 ISSUE 4
PHOTOGRAPHS Andrea Etzel
@KANSASMag
From My Travels While visiting Lindsborg last month, I took a morning hike at a favorite spot in Kansas: Buffalo Track Canyon Trail in Kanopolis State Park. While it wasn’t my first visit to the trail, it was, hands-down, one of the best hikes I’ve ever taken. Setting out just after sunrise, the landscape was peaceful. Sounds of nature echoed through the tall grass and trees, and except for two riders working their horses off in the distance, I felt I had the whole trail to myself. The soft morning light created a golden warm hue, enhancing the remarkable color of the sandstone canyon walls. Outside of walking through countless spiderwebs, and encountering one pesky tick and a swarm of thirsty mosquitoes, it was (at the risk of sounding cliché) magical.
Where in Kansas?
KANSAS DETAILS
Florence
The Food Chain
Topeka
Wichita
cuisine
By Cecilia Harris
The first chain restaurants appeared along the railroad lines of Kansas More Wichita
Restaurant Chains Taco Grande: Mike Foley started Taco Grande in 1960 and franchised new locations throughout the country before selling the business in 1982. Some Taco Grandes remain in Kansas. Taco Tico: Dan and Robin Foley opened Taco Tico in 1962 and sold the business in the late 1980s. Taco Tico operates in eight states with numerous locations in Kansas. Big Cheese Pizza: Jim Stevens opened Big Cheese Pizza in 1977 in Wichita and sold the business in 1989. Expanding to eight states in 10 years, Big Cheese Pizza remains in at least three Kansas locations. Spangles: Brothers Dale and Craig Steven opened Spangles in 1978. Known for its steakburgers, the chain continues to operate locations in Kansas and other Midwest states. Freddy’s Frozen Custard and Steakburgers: Named after Colwich native Freddy Simon, Freddy’s was co-founded in 2002 by Wichita restaurateur Scott Redler and Freddy’s sons, Bill and Randy. The restaurant is found throughout the nation.
Wichita Food Chains |
Wichita has produced two national food chain empires: White Castle and Pizza Hut. White Castle, celebrating 100 years in 2021, was founded by E.W. Billy Ingram and Walter Anderson. The original strategy of these two Kansas entrepreneurs included multiple locations, a unified building style, and standardized operations, products and menus. In 1958, brothers Dan and Frank Carney opened Pizza Hut, adding five more locations within a year; the business was sold to PepsiCo in 1977 with thousands of restaurants throughout the world reaching over $400 million in sales. Their original building on Wichita State University’s campus contains a Pizza Hut Museum.
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Opposite The Harvey House railroad restaurant chain had several fully staffed stops in Kansas including at Topeka, Hutchinson, Newton, Syracuse, Wellington and more.
PHOTOGRAPHS courtesy Kansas Historical Society (5)
In the late 1800s, Kansas entrepreneur Fred Harvey established a series of rail station diners that many historians regard as the first American restaurant chain. Known as the Harvey House restaurants, these kitchens represented national standards of fine dining expanding with the American West. “Fred Harvey’s goal was to bring elegance to the western states,” says Iva Britton, a tour guide at the Harvey House Museum in Florence and president of the Florence Historical Society. The restaurants also introduced concepts that would carry over into the modern American food industry. Each location was staffed by trained Harvey House waitresses, dubbed Harvey Girls, who quickly served food to hungry passengers needing to re-board trains. Harvey opened his first location in 1876 as a lunchroom in Topeka’s Santa Fe train station and eventually operated 84 restaurants in 12 states. Many of these locations still stand, such as Florence’s Harvey House Museum, located in the building in which Harvey opened his second restaurant and his first location to offer overnight accommodations. The museum welcomes guests and—with pre-scheduling— will host authentic Harvey House dinners for groups wishing to relive the era. The museum’s five-course meal includes beef au jus and is prepared using original recipes from 1878 to 1900. True to the era, the meal is served by costumed hosts and presented on china and with fine linens. Topeka’s Great Overland Station also offers a Harvey House dining experience where hosts in historical costumes and starched white aprons follow the serving protocols established by the original Harvey House. florenceks.com | (620) 382-5834 parks.snco.us | (785) 251-6945
Where in Kansas?
KANSAS DETAILS
Wichita
Manhattan
Dodge City
heartland
Heritage Zoos By Amber Fraley
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American prairie section that includes grizzly bears, cougars, river otters and bald eagles. In 1981, the zoo became accredited with the AZA—Association of Zoos and Aquariums—and is now in its 40th year of the “gold standard” in zoo accreditation. In 2018, the zoo announced a new mission statement to capture its philosophy: “Inspiring respect and conservation for wild animals and wild places.” The zoo has several projects and events in the works: a new entry complex that opened in May; a new leopard habitat that will allow for the addition of snow leopards; a nighttime lantern festival set to run from October 1 to December 5; construction of a new passenger train route of 1.3 miles that will run around the perimeter of the zoo, set to open by June 2022; and an interactive stingray exhibition set to open April 2022. Located at 5555 W Zoo Blvd in Wichita, the Sedgwick County Zoo has been operating at full capacity since May 2021, but be sure to call or check the zoo’s website before visiting. scz.org | (316) 660-9453
More Kansas Zoos Wright Park Zoo One of the state’s smallest zoos, Dodge City’s Wright Park Zoo opened in 1926 and earned its accreditation with the Zoological Association of America in 2010. Currently, the zoo is home to 126 animals of approximately 30 species, including Siberian tigers, longhorn cattle, bison, black bears, and emu. Wright Park Zoo is located at 71 N 2nd Ave. and is open Monday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Kansas State University Insect Zoo If there are insect lovers in your family, then the Kansas State University Insect Zoo is a must-visit destination. Located in a converted limestone barn, the zoo features a large array of pinned specimens as well as several live insect exhibits. The Insect Zoo is located at 1500 Denison Ave in Manhattan and has been running by appointment only during the pandemic. Be sure to call or check the website for hours, appointment times and admission fees. (785) 380-9139 | k-state.edu/butterfly insect-zoo.appointlet.com
Above Stephanie celebrates her 50th birthday this year. Opposite A group of visitors view the elephant grounds at Sedgwick County Zoo.
PHOTOGRAPHS (FROM LEFT) Lou Alexander-courtesy Sedgwick County Zoo, Kansas Tourism
Sedgwick County Zoo Celebrates 50 Years In 2021, the Sedgwick County Zoo celebrates its 50th anniversary, welcoming visitors to encounter a range of exhibits and residents—including Stephanie the elephant, who will be celebrating her 50th birthday along with the zoo. Stephanie was one of two elephants who arrived just two years after the zoo opened. Now the matriarch of the zoo’s herd, Stephanie is one of the oldest African elephants in the United States. She’s seen many changes since the Sedgwick Zoo, charging fifty cents for each adult entry, opened as an exhibition of “American and Asian Farms.” “About every year or two something significant was built or developed,” says Jennica King, the zoo’s director of strategic communication. The zoo’s expansions included the Amphibians and Reptiles building, the Indoor Rainforest Habitat, one of the largest outdoor aviaries in the country, orangutans, chimpanzees and lowland gorillas, and an 11-acre North
KANSAS DETAILS
Where in Kansas? Downs
Osborne County
Osborne
Liberal
Independence
culture
Encounters with Homesteading History By Cecilia Harris
Historical markers and tours encourage exploration of Santa Fe Trail history
PHOTOGRAPH courtesy the Kansas Historical Society
In 1871, 17-year-old Rose Ise accompanied her new husband to homestead land in what is now Osborne County. Here they would farm and raise a family despite clouds of grasshoppers nearly destroying their crops and livelihood, and a bull snake dropping through the soil roof of their sod dugout home and falling onto the family dining table. In her later years, Ise related many of these homesteading adventures and daily challenges to one of her sons, John Ise, who made these stories the basis for his classic 1936 nonfiction work, Sod and Stubble.
John Ise, who became a Harvard-educated economics professor at the University of Kansas, would also edit Sod-House Days, a collection of Howard Ruede’s letters to his family in Pennsylvania that chronicled the 22-year-old’s challenging first year (1877–1878) as a Kansas homesteader, also in Osborne County. The stories of these and other Osborne County homesteaders are recounted in Osborne County Kansas Scenic and Heritage Backways by modern regional historian Von Rothenberger. His book provides 11 backroad tours that
Carrie Ingalls’ Birthday Party |
Little House on the Prairie Museum, Independence In her famous Little House on the Prairie series, author Laura Ingalls Wilder tells of her family’s pioneer adventures in southeast Kansas. A modern replica of the Wilder family’s 1870 cabin stands on this homesteading property, where visitors are welcome to visit throughout the year, including on July 31 when volunteers will hold a celebration for Laura’s sister Carrie, the one Ingalls born at this location. littlehouseontheprairiemuseum.com | (620) 289-4238
OPPOSITE Students and teachers assemble before a sod schoolhouse in Osborne County. The photograph is believed to have been taken in 1881.
take visitors to properties, roadside markers and farmland that was part of the county’s homesteading heritage. Portions of this book are also published as separate selfguided auto tours, “Sod and Stubble Country Heritage Backway” and “Rediscovering Sod House Days Heritage Backway,” both available as brochures at the Osborne County Genealogical and Historical Society’s Carnegie Research Library in Osborne, the public library in Downs, as well as other locations in Downs and Osborne. facebook.com/OCGHS (785) 346-9437 or 346-6606
The Dorothy House Dorothy’s House in Liberal is a replication of the Kansas farm home shown in the classic 1939 film The Wizard of Oz. The Land of Oz museum complex provides an animated journey through other locations from the movie. dorothyshouse.com | (620) 624-7624
2021 ISSUE 4 | KANSAS! MAGAZINE
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Where in Kansas?
KANSAS DETAILS
King Kanopolis
Lake Kanopolis
kansas air
By Michael Pearce
Lake Kanopolis, just minutes away from hyperbusy Interstates 70 and 35, has been getting some national love lately. In April, tourism industry giant Condé Nast Traveler named Lake Kanopolis one of America’s top 50 state parks. Last summer, Travel Awaits magazine named the area’s trail system the best amid the 4,000 miles of recognized trails in Kansas. Before that, Active Times magazine ranked Kanopolis State Park at #14 of America’s 7,500-plus state parks for scenic beauty. That’s within the top one-half of one percent in the nation! To see the park is to understand why. Famed Trails The Horsethief Canyon trail system winds back and forth across several streams where they enter the lake. Trails trace the top of the canyons and split the tall rock formations as they follow the flowing waters. In all, there are more than 28 miles of extraordinary landscape to roam. Most of these trails are open to horses, so equestrians can experience the country as famed explorer Kit Carson did long ago. But the trails can be equally enjoyed on foot.
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The Buffalo Tracks Canyon Nature Trail gives a condensed version of all that makes the Horsethief Canyon system so special. This trail is less than a mile each way as it passes below tall cliffs, uses stepping stones to cross Bison Creek and then ascends to probably the most photographed and famed cave in Kansas. It’s called Oven Cave because native people used it to prepare and smoke fresh meat from buffalo they’d stampeded over nearby canyon cliffs. True to its name, there is an unmistakable place where the hooves of bison carved steps into the soft red rock through the ages. Camping, fishing and more Kanopolis State Park offers more than just the many miles of great trails. Camping options include tent sites where you’ll sleep listening to waves softly rolling ashore a few yards away. There are also camper hookups with full utilities as well as six cabins, each within easy walking distance to park activities and with a lakeside view from their porch. The park’s Rockin’ K Horse Campground is one of the nation’s top “horse hotels,” with full
facilities to accommodate horses and the people who bring them. The park also offers great views of the lake. A tall rock outcrop, accessible by foot or car, near the northern-most boat ramp of the Horsethief area may be the most romantic place in Kansas to watch a sunset. Wildlife abounds, including an active nest of bald eagles clearly seen from a road. Dozens of deer come from the brushy creases in the landscape to browse in the open at dusk. Birdwatching brings a nice blend of prairie and woodland species. Kanopolis Reservoir is one of Kansas’ most consistent fisheries for channel catfish, crappie, saugeye and white bass. There are wadable points to help shore-bound anglers cast to where the big ones swim. There are many arms of the lake and feeder streams where kayak anglers can paddle in smooth, peaceful waters. Many eventually end up doing a slow paddle when casting becomes secondary to sightseeing as they pass beneath the rising, ragged bluffs and miles of unbroken prairie. Almost all are glad they did.
Opposite (Clockwise from left) A hiker stands on the bluffs overlooking Lake Kanopolis. Riders enjoy the park’s horse trails. Wildlife are abundant on the park’s grounds.
PHOTOGRAPHS Michael Pearce
Believe the hype—Lake Kanopolis receives much-deserved national attention
KANSAS DETAILS
Where in Kansas? Overbrook
Benton Wichita
kansas made
Color and Light By Lisa Waterman Gray
Kansas stained glass artists bring beauty into homes
PHOTOGRAPHS Bill Stephens
For most of his life, David E. Anderson drew up plans for customized homes in eastern Kansas. That changed in the early 2000s when he suffered a head injury and went through over a year’s recovery at age 63. Unable to work at that point, found himself returning to an old hobby—glass work—and wanting to return to a slower lifestyle. “I grew up east of Ottawa, went to school in a little schoolhouse, Briles Schoolhouse,” he says. “I always considered myself a farm and ranch cowboy, so I like being in the country and the country atmosphere.”
So in 2004 Anderson picked up stakes and moved to an area east of Overbrook, where he bought a 1930s stone building, a former grocery store and gas station that had been built on the property of a Santa Fe Trail trading post. “I bought it knowing I was going to put my studio here,” Anderson says. “I’m in the only stone-glass building within 8 miles. It’s such a unique setting.” After about 9 years of living and working at the studio, Anderson was joined by his son, Steven, a retired Marine who now works alongside him six days a week. “We’ve got works displayed in 37 states and four other countries,”
says Anderson, who also teaches all-day classes in small sizes of 3 to 4 students at a time. When he isn’t teaching others to create their own art, Anderson says he enjoys bringing customers into the process. “I like when people come in with a thought in their mind or a picture, then I’ll draw a design to their size and they get a custommade piece,” Anderson says. “The customer can say, ‘I went out and talked to this guy and helped design this glass work.’ That’s fulfilling for me.” (785) 665-0110 facebook.com/deander99
Infinity Art Glass Studio & Gallery
Rayer’s Bearden Stained Glass
Benton Art inspired Scott Hartley from a young age. As an adult he left teaching to create handblown glass décor. Today, Hartley’s work appears in more than 90 galleries across the nation and the globe. Illuminated Art Glass is a thriving family business, and Hartley relishes working with his customers. (316) 778-2115 | infinityartglass.com
Wichita One of the region’s largest sources for stained glass supplies is a great place to take public classes, too. In-house artists create gorgeous custom residential and commercial windows, reflecting Frank Lloyd Wright and Prairie Style to Abstract or Art Nouveau design. (316) 942-2929 | rayersinc.com
David E. Anderson creates stained glass art from his home studio in Overbrook.
2021 ISSUE 4 | KANSAS! MAGAZINE
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KANSAS DETAILS
lens
Cody Tracy A conversation with KANSAS! photographers about their lives in photography Kansas native Cody Tracy has always had a love for nature. Born and raised in Rose Hill, Kansas, Tracy grew up a committed bow-hunter. However, after life-altering events forced Tracy to reexamine his hunting methods, he found a new way to show his appreciation for the outdoors through photography … What was the moment you wanted to become a photographer? What interested me to finally grab a camera was my lifetime love of bowhunting, especially on the Rogler Ranch in Matfield Green. I like to be settled by the time nature awakes, so I’d sneak into the woods with a tree stand on my back and tree steps in my pocket. I’d clip a bowstring to my bag and put steps in pre-taped holes. Every time I was ready like this, it was magic. Then, my method of hunting had to change drastically after a spinal cord injury left me paralyzed with partial use of both arms and no finger function. Many people were offering new hunting methods, but it just wasn’t me. I had to adapt. This is when I turned to photography to highlight my love for nature. I learned how to hunt on the ground in a ghillie suit (an outfit designed to camouflage hunters) using the elements.
What was your first camera? My first camera was a Canon t4i with an 18-135mm lens. Great camera! It lasted me a while and taught me very quickly. What are some objects you like to photograph that are not common in other works? I enjoy shooting in bulb mode because it is a rare and engaging way to shoot. Lightning storms are a favorite for me. Knowing the camera’s field of view, I set the camera to manual while having a remote trigger and watching the sky. I hold the shutter open to collect enough light … then you get that “boomer” that blows out the exposure. I also have a lightning trigger. Combining this method with a manual lens and lens filters provides a fun and engaging way to photograph. Bulb shooting is essentially long-exposure shooting, which is another favorite of mine. Most of the time, I shoot at night when it takes seconds to collect enough light. I like to layer glass in front of my lenses in all sorts of fashions—dark, polarized and gradient darknesses. Long-exposure shooting blurs motion, which is especially fun in land and cityscapes. By blocking light during the day, I am allowing myself more time to collect light.
Tell us about your best chance photo taken in Kansas. This waterfall image is a prime daytime long exposure example. I set the aperture at f22, ISO at 50, a circular landscape polarizer, and a 0.9 neutral density soft gradient. I put the rest of the camera in a manual program for this lens filter combination. With the camera secured on a tripod, the shutter speed was only a second long. The uniqueness of this image lies in the fact that my friend Michelle Terry crawled down to the falls while I stayed above her connected to my camera through Wi-Fi. She aimed and focused my camera as I directed with manual settings I controlled from my vantage point. We took several images, and what is shown here was our first attempt. She wandered and crawled around the falls while I tried to yell instructions. It was comical to anyone watching—a girl with a camera yelling back and forth over a waterfall at a guy in a wheelchair perched at the edge of a bluff. But we made it work. These dual effort shoots where I have to surrender composition and the other person surrenders camera settings are extremely rare. It is a collaborative but wild way to shoot, and the success is shared.
Never give up on a Kansas sunset. Put your camera away last because I have learned that the hard way too many times! –Cody Tracy 2021 ISSUE 4 | KANSAS! MAGAZINE
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THE
kansan
“I first got into reenacting out of an interest in learning about history in a deeper way. It’s one thing to read about something; it’s another to experience it for yourself. Living history is more than wearing clothing of a different time period; it involves research into history, culture and people, and portraying that to the public. I hope that our efforts help future generations understand our complex world and gain a greater appreciation of our shared past.” Nichols first moved to Fort Riley, Kansas, after he was assigned to the 1st Infantry Division in 2015. It was during his time here he met Holly Higgs, a Topeka native and Kansas State University grad who is now his wife. He was then accepted into the School of Advanced Military Studies at Fort Leavenworth and graduated in 2019. Nichols is now stationed in Poland at NATO Multinational Corps Northeast.
PHOTOGRAPH Justin Lister
–JARED NICHOLS, ON HOW HISTORICAL REENACTMENTS HELP US CONNECT TO OUR PAST
Where in Kansas?
KANSAS DETAILS
Carona
Atchison
Topeka
Abilene
Phillipsburg
Ellis
reasons
Reasons
We Love Kansas By Cecilia Harris
IN THIS ISSUE
All Aboard!
ATCHISON RAIL MUSEUM | Atchison During summer weekends, young visitors can ride the Atchison and Western Railroad train, a 12” gauge railroad train at the Atchison Rail Museum next to the historic Santa Fe Depot. The museum’s grounds also include a steam locomotive, a post and baggage car, a dining car and several cabooses.
Facebook: Atchison Train Club – North East Kansas | Railroadersatchisontrainclub@gmail.com
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KANSAS DETAILS
reasons AND SMOKY VALLEY RAILROAD | Abilene 1 ABILENE The state’s only operating steam engine pulls the Abilene and Smoky Valley Railroad excursion train as it takes visitors through farmland and scenic Smoky Hill River countryside between Abilene and Enterprise. A vintage diesel electric locomotive hauls the train on most runs, but the state’s only operating steam engine pulls the passenger train on designated weekends. Visitors can also explore a museum of train memorabilia and a model train in the historic Abilene depot and visit the Hoffman Grist Mill during the train’s layover in Enterprise. Special rides and dinner trains also are offered. PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY (CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE) Atchison Rail Museum, Abilene and Smoky Valley Railroad, C&R Railroad Museum, Heart of Hearts Museum Complex
asvrr.org | (785) 263-0118 or (888) 426-6689
C&R RAILROAD MUSEUM | Phillipsburg 2 Five animated O-scale trains chug through a 57-foot-long model mountain range, wind through tunnels, travel past a waterfall and cross bridges at the quarter-mile miniature train track of the C&R Railroad Museum in Phillipsburg’s Huck Boyd Community Center. The display includes 94 engines, 170 cars, 34 cabooses, and 137 railroad lanterns in a room featuring special lighting for daytime and nighttime effects.
1 2
Facebook: Huck Boyd Community Center | (785) 543-5535
HEART OF THE HEARTLANDS MUSEUM COMPLEX | Carona 3 Two restored depots, railroad locomotives (including a steam engine), passenger cars, a refrigerated box car, a hopper car, and several cabooses line an outdoor pathway at the Heart of the Heartlands Museum Complex in Carona. The museum’s Rail Heritage and Education Center houses artifacts relating to regional railroad history, a collection of hand-carved wooden model steam locomotives, a library, and a media center. heartlandstrainclub.org | (620) 396-8594
RAILROAD MUSEUM AND DOLL DISPLAY | Ellis 4 ELLIS Passengers can ride an approximately one-third scale model of the 1955 GM Aerotrain at the Ellis Railroad Museum and Doll Display. The Aerotrain’s outdoor tracks pass by a Union Pacific caboose and the restored Penokee, Kansas, depot. Inside the museum, visitors can see four model railroad displays, timetables, station signs, and other rail memorabilia, including photos of early Ellis, which was laid out by the Kansas Pacific in 1873 when it built a depot, crew hotel, and car shops.
ellisrailroadmuseum.com | (785) 726-4493
OVERLAND STATION | Topeka 5 GREAT Kids can enjoy a variety of hands-on exhibitions, including a train engine stimulator and a child-sized caboose at the beautifully restored former Union Pacific station. Costumed docents, interactive displays, historic photographs and exhibitions also introduce visitors of all ages to the area’s railroad heritage. parks.snco.us | (785) 251-6945
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KANSAS DETAILS
must see
May–September 15 Wyandotte County Museum Remember the 1951 Flood at Wyandotte County Museum with an exhibition highlighting those who survived the tragedy and the preventative measures taken in response to the flood. wycokck.org/wycomuseum/ Exhibits.aspx
Richard Marquis: Keepers June 12–September 5 Wichita Art Museum In collaboration with the Museum of Glass in Tacoma, Washington, Wichita Art Museum presents Richard Marquis: Keepers. The exhibition highlights more than 100 favorite creations of artist Richard Marquis. wichitaartmuseum.org/whats-on/ exhibitions/richard-marquis-keepers/
Tuesday Tootle
Barton County Fair
Rooks County Free Fair
July 7–11 | Barton
August 8–14 | Stockton
This year’s annual Barton County Fair will take place at the Great Bend Expo Center and will feature 4-H and FFA exhibits, livestock shows, music, carnival rides and more. bartoncountyfair.com
Head on down to the Rooks County Fair for some good oldfashioned family fun. Events take place throughout the week featuring Christian music, livestock shows, carnival rides, a demoderby and more. rookscountyfreefair.com/ schedule-of-events
Theatre Under the Stars July 16, 17, 23 and 24 | Lindsborg Join Broadway RFD under the stars for performances of its summer musical Mamma Mia. All shows begin at 8:30 p.m. at Swensson Park. broadwayrfd.org
All Shook Up August 1 | Leavenworth The River City Community Players presents All Shook Up, a play inspired by and featuring the songs of Elvis Presley. Visit the website to view additional dates in July as well. rccplv.com
July 6–August 16 | Winfield Every Tuesday at 6 p.m., riders meet at the Walnut Valley Outpost for an evening bike ride. Riders will need a bike and a helmet. travelks.com/event/tuesdaytootle/23542/
Scott Bean Photography K A N S A S L A N D S CA P E A N D N AT U R E P H OTO G R A P H S
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Back to School Blast! August 14 | Salina Enjoy some of the last days of summer at the Rolling Hills Zoo. The day will include half-priced admission, bounce houses, animal meet-and-greets and more. rollinghillszoo.org/news/back-toschool-blast
Sunflower Festival August 21–September 11 | Buhler Grab your camera, venture out to the country and walk through more than 16 acres of sunflower fields. kansasmaze.com/events
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY Kansas Maze
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Shared Blooms Kansas demonstration gardens welcome visitors who enjoy seeing and learning about which plants and flowers thrive in each region of the state Photography by Kansas State Research & Extension, Reno County
K
ansas’ network of demonstration gardens is a treasure of location-specific resources for gardeners across the state. Overseen by the regional offices of the Kansas State Research and Extension specialists, the range of gardens includes a woodland along the Lake Shawnee Trail in Topeka, a cactus and succulent garden within the Sedgwick County Extension Arboretum in Wichita, a herb and wildflower garden in Beloit, as well as vegetable, flower, and pollinator gardens on the grounds of the National Agricultural Center and Hall of Fame in Bonner Springs. K-State horticultural agents partner with volunteers in the master gardeners program to create many of these demonstration gardens. Often these gardens are on extension office land, but sometimes partnerships have been created to bring green designs to public spaces. The Reno County Master Gardeners, for example, partnered with Hutchinson Community College to create a demo garden in the middle of campus. The garden has several beds with different ornamental flowers, plants and vegetables, each of which are clearly labeled for passersby to read. Reno County horticulture agent Pam Paulsen says that she and the volunteers who maintain this garden have responded to community queries and interest. “A lot of people started vegetable gardens last year when we were all shut down, so there has been interest in that and we added more vegetables,” Paulsen says. After staff and volunteers noticed that children from a local YMCA program often walked by the gardens, they decided to add some cotton plants. “We added the cotton to show something a bit different to the kids as they walk by,” Paulsen explains. “They can enjoy it and see where clothes come from. Cotton is somewhat ornamental; it is a pretty plant and it is tough—it takes our conditions well.”
Top Pollinators gather on an echinacea bloom. Above Schubertii allium, the tumbleweed onion, blooms at a K-State research garden.
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This historic iris is an example of an ornamental flower that grows well in local conditions.
Master gardeners from Ellis County planted a bed outside the Cottonwood Extension District office on Main Street in downtown Hays in 2019. They use the garden to demonstrate how to grow drought-tolerant plants in difficult environments with little watering. The garden’s more than 75 plants have flourished in some 80 feet of urban space and rely almost solely on a 500-gallon rain barrel for water as the garden continues to expand. “We’ve added Taylor junipers and some planters this year,” says Lauren Fick, horticultural agent for the Cottonwood District, which includes Barton and Ellis counties. “My office has a window that looks out on the garden, and I notice that many people stop and look. There are college students who are out walking a dog, young couples with a child in a stroller and also some of our experienced gardeners who stop by and check up on a favorite plant, such as our hibiscus, to see if it is blooming.” Exploring demo gardens across the state makes for great road trips and can provide inspiration for your own garden. To get details about extension demo gardens in your area, check with your local horticulture agent; there’s a list of county and district offices at ksre.k-state.edu.
ip tr d a o r a g in n n a l P or a getaway? rience able lodging expe inn for a memor Choose a KBBA
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The prairie smoke is a native flower that remains ornamental after its petals drop.
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Soy in the Mix Kansas officials work to promote soy in recipes, exports and more Story by Meta Newell West Photography by Nick Krug
T
he “joy of soy” is more than a catchy phrase for Charlene Patton, the consumer media specialist for the Kansas Soybean Commission. She regularly touts the benefits of soy, explaining that it’s a nutrient-rich food containing all the essential amino acids needed to make it a complete protein, a source of healthy fats of the omega-3 and omega-6 variety, and that it contains fiber, isoflavones, vitamins, and minerals. Patton then translates these nutritional benefits to the frying pan, so to speak, as she appears in person and on television shows to offer innovative ways to serve soy.
Above Soy oil is used to brush the meat of this pork loin roast. Left This black bean corn salad features 15 ounces of black soybeans.
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Chris Fisher, a producer and anchor at Topeka’s WIBW TV, is amazed by Patton’s dedication and enthusiasm for soy. He points out, “Soy is anything but flashy. Nowhere in any song is there mention of Kansas’ non-amber waves of broadleaves, and people don’t flock to soybean fields in the fall to take selfies for social media and family photos, but Charlene does an amazing job shining a spotlight on the importance of soy and soy producers in a state where it might easily be lost in the shuffle.” Patton enjoys creating or adapting recipes such as the soy flour blend that she uses when a recipe calls for all-purpose flour. While wheat flour provides the gluten needed for structure, the soy flour adds protein, boosts browning, helps with
moisture retention, tenderizes baked goods and extends their shelf life. During public appearances Charlene often quizzes her audience about their soy consumption. “There are a lot of people who don’t realize soybean oil is the primary ingredient in most vegetable oils, or that the protein in their favorite energy bars comes from soy,” she says, encouraging people to check ingredient lists on food labels as soy is included in packaged foods ranging from breakfast dishes to bedtime snacks. The mix of soy in other ingredients come into play as Patton collaborates with the Kansas Wheat Commission and Home Baking Association to promote baking. Since animals consume 97% of the 2021 ISSUE 4 | KANSAS! MAGAZINE
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spaces In her role, Patton represents over 16,000 soybean farmers who are associated with the Kansas Soybean Commission. This farmer-driven organization, established in 1977, includes 9 volunteer farmer-commissioners from across the state who are nominated and elected by their peers. Keith Miller, who represents the central part of the state, explains a few of the specific aspects of the group’s work. “Commissioners have traveled to places like Vietnam, the Philippines, Japan, Korea, and Nigeria, opening up new international markets for Kansas soybeans.” They also provide educational programs for farmers and FFA chapters and are constantly seeking and supporting the The Kansas Department of Agriculture provides this information regarding development of new uses the role of soybeans in the state’s farming industry. for their crops—from • Kansas soybean and other oilseed industry has a direct input of over $1.8 food products to printer billion and provides 1,958 jobs in Kansas. inks, crayons, candles, • About half of soybeans planted in the U.S. is destined for export plastics and clean-burning • In 2020, Kansas produced some 190 million bushels of soybeans from over biodiesel fuels. 4.7 million acres, making the state the 10th-largest producer of soybeans in The commission the United States also supports research, a project that has had a direct impact on Miller’s Barton County farm. “I started growing soybeans about 20 years ago, but they actually became a viable crop in the last 15 years after a droughtresistant variety was developed at Kansas State University,” he said. “K-State is constantly working on new varieties including soybeans that are pest and disease resistant. Kansas University and Pittsburg State are also doing some work, as are seed companies,” he adds.
soybeans produced in the state, she also works with the Kansas beef and pork councils. It’s a win-win situation that helps promotes agricultural offerings from across the state. Patton also develops resources, activities and recipes for family consumer science teachers to implement in their classrooms. Teachers can apply for funding that helps pay for those labs. “It’s a chance for our future consumers and cooks to become acquainted with the nutritional qualities, uses and the taste of soy foods,” Patton says.
Soy’s Economic Role in Kansas
Charlene Patton creates soy recipes in her role with the Kansas Soybean Commission.
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Rotisserie
Pork Loin Roast Yield: 8 servings
Ingredients
Directions
•
1. Pat roast with paper towel to remove moisture. Use butcher string to tie if needed. Place meat on rotisserie spit rod and secure with skewers. 2. In small bowl combine brown sugar, soy flour blend, cumin, smoked paprika, kosher salt and cinnamon. 3. Brush meat with vegetable (soy) oil and rub with spice mixture to cover meat on all sides. Place rod in motor over indirect heat with coals on each side. A drip pan in center will catch juices. Roast for 30 to 60 minutes depending on temperature of coals. Check for doneness with a meat thermometer with 145°F for medium. 4. When done remove roast from grill and remove rotisserie spit rod; cover roast with foil; let roast rest for 15 minutes. Carve into slices.
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• • • • •
4-pound boneless pork loin roast 2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed 1 tablespoon soy flour blend (soy flour blend is a ratio of 7 cups allpurpose flour combined with 1 cup soy flour) 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 2 teaspoons kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons vegetable (soy) oil
Nutritional Information per serving: one serving (237 g) Calories 370; Total Fat 22g (9 g sat fat); Cholesterol 120 mg; Sodium 1,142 mg; Total Carbs 5 g; Protein 42 g; Fiber 1 g
Black Bean Corn Salad with Citrus Dressing
PHOTOGRAPH Shutterstock
Yield: 8 servings
Ingredients
Directions
•
1. Combine in mixing bowl black soybeans, corn, edamame, bell pepper, onion and cilantro. 2. For dressing, grate peel of orange and lime and place zest in container that has a tight-fitting lid. Add orange juice, lime juice, vegetable (soy) oil and salt; close with lid and shake to mix. 3. Pour dressing as desired over vegetable mixture; refrigerate to chill.
• • • • • • • • • • •
1 can (15 ounces) black soybeans, drained and rinsed 1 cup frozen corn, thawed ½ cup shelled edamame, cooked ½ cup chopped red bell pepper ½ cup chopped red onion ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon orange zest 1 teaspoon lime zest ½ cup orange juice 1 tablespoon lime juice ¼ cup vegetable (soy) oil ¼ teaspoon salt
Nutritional Information per serving: one serving (125 g) Calories 152; Total Fat 10g (1g sat fat); Cholesterol 0 mg; Sodium 93 mg; Total Carbs 12 g; Protein 6g; Fiber 4 g
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Kansas Companies Producing Soyfoods
Soybeans have a long, rich history in our state. The progression of that history and predictions for their future are chronicled in an Agricultural Experiment Station publication by Kansas State Agriculture College (now K-State), dated February 1930. It states, “While it [soybeans] constitutes a crop of only minor importance in Kansas at the present time, indications are that it will become more important within the next few years, especially in the eastern three or four tiers of counties. Drought and rabbits are the principal hindrances to growing it farther west.” It seems those predictions were on target. According to the Kansas Department of Agriculture, soybeans ranked 5th in Kansas agriculture production with 190 million bushels produced over 4.7 million acres in 2020. And, due to decades of research and development, soybeans are now grown throughout the state.
Kansas Protein Foods This Hutchison-based business produces textured soy protein made from 50% protein soy flour. Their consumer product line is called Kansas Kitchen and they offer 1-pound pouches of plant-based protein. Their product offerings include unflavored crumbles, chicken strips, sausage crumbles, and taco crumbles. Order directly from the company at thekansaskitchen.com Central Soyfoods Original firm, hickory smoked and hot chili are the three varieties of tofu available through this Lawrence-based company. They produce about 100,000 pounds of tofu per year using organic soybeans. Orders are accepted directly from the company website, centralsoytofu.com
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Soybean Farming Keith Miller of the Kansas Soybean Commission shares these details of farming and harvesting soy in Barton County, Kansas. • • •
•
• •
Beans are generally planted from the last of April through the end of June. Harvest time varies from the first of September through the first of November. Combines, fitted with flex head cutters, are used to harvest crops. The special header adjusts so it can cut as close to the ground as possible. Plant height can range from 3 inches to 3 or 4 feet tall depending on moisture from either rain or irrigation. Soybeans are alternated with wheat, corn and milo. This practice of crop rotation provides needed ground cover and helps control disease and weeds. Because soybeans collect nitrogen from the air, they add vital nutrients to the soil. More information on Kansas soybean farming can be found at kansassoybeans.org
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H H G
HIDDEN HIKING GEMS
Exploring some of the state’s less-traveled trailways Story by
Michelle R. Terry
Photography by
Cody Tracy, Jonathan Adams and Michelle Terry
For years, I have enjoyed hiking the Kansas outdoors.
After being asked to create a selection of some of the state’s lesser-known hiking trail gems, I set off on a thousand-mile journey of love, exploring and revisiting paths across Kansas. Often, I would drive or detour for a good part of the day, enjoy the trail, and then perch near sunset at the Kansas treasure I had newly discovered or was appreciating once more. For me, these memories and views were gifts more striking than words or photos can convey. The timeless scenery was a humble reminder that my visitation was only surface-level, brushing across decades and centuries of human footprints and stories before me, and these nestled on the longer geological imprint of time. I wish you the same experience, and here are my suggestions for five less-visited trails that may give you a similar experience. BIG BASIN PRAIRIE PRESERVE If you’ve been here, you know. If you haven’t, make it a priority. With sweeping grasslands and endless skies, Big Basin Prairie Preserve is more than 1,800 acres of roadtrip-worthy beauty. It has natural attractions—bison—that can be seen throughout the year, and a scenic trail allows you to access and appreciate the landscape’s most spectacular views. The preserve lies in the Red Hills region of Kansas, also known as the Gyp Hills, an oxidized, gypsum-rock landscape with rolling hills, scalable canyons and intermittent water sources. One mile across and 100 feet deep, Big Basin is a bowl-shaped expanse of rock sediment, native grass, and shallow pools. Canyon walls rise straight from the basin and are tufted with yucca, native wildflowers, gypsum, and limestone sediments. The basin was formed by a geologic process that caused a gradual, gentle sinking of the land’s surface. In this process, surface water leaked into the ground and dissolved gypsum, limestone, and salt formations. Minerals filled in the vacated spots, creating a unique geologic landscape of buttes and plateaus. ST. JACOB’S WELL St. Jacob’s Well sits just west of Big Basin in an area known as the Little Basin, a natural sink some 300 yards in diameter that drops 35 feet to a pool of water surrounded by stark white rock formations and cottonwood trees. Ashland native Michael Gillaspie shares a childhood experience during a Cub Scout expedition. “We hiked down to St. Jacob’s Well and saw a place that seemed like an oasis. Our 7-yearold imaginations went wild when we heard about the legends.” These local legends spin that the strikingly indigo pool is bottomless and filled with blind fish. Other sources claim that a spectral cowboy haunts this land and that the site has never gone dry, so settlers were always able to graze and water their
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BIG BASIN / LITTLE BASIN AND ST. JACOB’S WELL
Quick Facts LOCATION Ashland/Englewood region of Clark County TRAIL DISTANCE (BIG BASIN) 1.7 miles from the highway to crest; out and back RATING Moderate to difficult TERRAIN Coarse gravel SURROUNDING ATTRACTIONS Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway; Dodge City Clark County State Fishing Lake HUNTING No FACILITIES No CAMPING No
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horses. According to other stories, divers have tried—and failed—to reach the bottom. Gillaspie adds, “I came back to see it thirty years later, and the kid in me still wants to know—has anyone seen the bottom of Jacob’s Well?” Scientific data indicates that the funnel-shaped pool is approximately 58 feet deep, but the precision of the measurement does nothing to dampen the mysterious beauty of the scene. GETTING THERE Big Basin Prairie Preserve is in Clark County in southwest Kansas, some fifteen miles south of Mineola, tucked off Highway 283/US-160, but it’s not readily visible from the road. Because the Big Basin Prairie Preserve can easily elude passersby, be sure to turn on the GPS, or go oldschool with a paper map to find the short gravel turn-off and, for the love of Kansas, stop! Once you have parked off the road, look for the trail. Although it is not identified on many trail locator apps, the rugged gravel path starts at the historical marker near the highway and winds for 1.7 miles through prairie expanse and endless sky to the summit.
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To get to St. Jacob’s Well, go south from the Big Basin turnoff along 283/160 for approximately a mile then turn west on the parallel road, which will run back north and take you to a cattle guard and a gravel road that runs just over 3 miles to Little Basin and the well. Managed by the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks, both areas are open all year to respectful visitors. Vehicles are allowed on the gravel trail. Foot traffic is welcomed and encouraged on the path, and visitors who make the slow climb will often be rewarded with sightings of the free-roaming bison herd off in the distance on either side. Of course, if traveling inside a vehicle or by foot, follow sensible precautions not to agitate or interact with the bison. I recommend driving to the summit and then parking there for further exploration by hiking, running, or walking. Avid trail runners should consider running down and back to the highway for a rise over 2,300 feet. Whichever mode you choose, plan on spending several hours to appreciate the opportunity for reflection and scenic photography. If you spend the day at the Basin, you might want to consider overnight lodging in Dodge City, which is only 40 minutes to the north.
LEHIGH PORTLAND TRAILS Running alongside water and prairie vistas, wildlife, native grass, and wildflowers, the Lehigh Portland Trails provide a free and travel-worthy place to hike, mountain bike, or walk with dogs. The more than 13mile network of interconnecting trails provides routes for all ability levels. The abundance of wildlife, biologic and geologic ecosystems provide a natural classroom for curious students. Opened to the public since 2016, the trails follow routes of various difficulty levels around and between Lake Lehigh and Elm Creek, near Iola in Allen County. Formerly property of the Lehigh Portland Cement Company, the trail features prominent limestone formations and natural caves accessible to visitors. Maintained by a group of volunteers, along with Thrive Allen County, a nonprofit organization that won the 2017 Culture of Health Award from the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation, the trails have been developed in various sections over the years. Original developer and Thrive member Randy Rasa works with a core of volunteers to maintain the pathways. “Right now, we are restoring grasslands that have been overtaken by cedars and elms,” Rasa explains. That means a lot of burning, clearing, and native grass and wildflower seeding, all part of Thrive’s mission to create a native landscape while taking advantage of some of the vistas made possible by the former quarry. For example, the quarry cliff vantage point overlooks Lehigh Quarry Lake and provides an epic view of over 300 acres of trees, brushwood, and water features. Jonathan Adams, a photographer and Iola resident, has served as one of the trail’s unofficial tour guides. “I love the diversity,” he says. “So many different ecosystems inside one set of trails.” As an example of this diversity, Adams points to the trails running along the lake’s south side and through a more arid landscape with succulents and yucca plants. “I even saw a scorpion once,” he adds. In contrast, on the opposite side of the lake in the north, the Creekside trails run sometimes tight and twisted over various terrain, past cedar trees, tall cottonwoods, and along rocky ravine passages. Then, there are the eastside cave trails area, where John Brown’s Cave has a walkable entrance, and an experienced caver can traverse the entire length of nearly 300 feet. This route also includes two short sections of the Katy Trail from the abandoned Missouri-Kansas-Texas and Mo-Pac railroad lines. This portion of the trail rises to 121 feet elevation and is labeled moderate for hiking and biking. GETTING THERE Trailhead parking is on the east side of the lake and can be approached from Iola, either south along 1700 Street from east Iola, or west along Montana Road, and then into 1650 Street from central/ west Iola. Before visiting, be sure to check out the trail site’s official website at lehightrails.com to choose your trailhead based on which route you want to concentrate on.
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LEHIGH PORTLAND TRAILS
Quick Facts LOCATION Iola region of Allen County TRAIL DISTANCE Over 13 miles of trails RATING Easy to difficult TERRAIN gravel trails, single track and wide singletrack SURROUNDING ATTRACTIONS Bowlus Fine Arts Center in Iola, Fort Scott cultural attractions and Neosha Falls HUNTING No FACILITIES No CAMPING No, but proposals are being reviewed for the future
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THREE OTHER LESSER-KNOWN GEMS Sand Hills Loop Trail
1
LOCATION Near Hutchinson, Reno County TRAIL DISTANCE 7.7-mile loop-style
Coyote Trail at 2 Lemon Park 3 Webster State Lake Nature Trails LOCATION Webster State Lake, Rooks County TRAIL DISTANCE 2.9-mile loop-style
RATING Easy to moderate
LOCATION Pratt, Pratt County TRAIL DISTANCE 1.4-mile loop-style RATING Easy
1
RATING Easy to moderate TERRAIN Sand
TERRAIN Paved and natural TERRAIN Mowed grassland
SURROUNDING ATTRACTIONS Coronado Heights Park Trail and Dillon Nature Trails HUNTING By limited permit
SURROUNDING ATTRACTIONS Nicodemus National History Museum and walking tour trails
FACILITIES Yes
HUNTING Yes
SURROUNDING ATTRACTIONS Located inside the Pratt city limits, this stop is perfect for families traveling in Kansas’ southern region. The handdug well and museum are in nearby Greensburg.
CAMPING Yes, at Sand Hills State Park
FACILITIES Yes
HUNTING No
CAMPING Yes
FACILITIES Yes
HOW TO ACCESS State Park permit or access fee is required, but plenty of trailhead parking is available.
CAMPING No
SUMMARY Coyote Trail offers diverse terrain and scenery in a small series of loops and crossover trails. The trails take hikers by a lake, limestone cliffs, and near an eagle nesting area. Most portions of the trail are well-marked, and the trail loops all the way around the lake, making it easy to keep your starting point in view.
SUMMARY Lemon Park Nature Trails provides a scenic walking tour along the Ninnescah River. Featured inside this family-friendly venue are both paved and natural trails with plenty of opportunities to see wildlife, native plants, and waterfalls. Popular with hikers and runners, the park provides plenty of shade and windbreaks.
HOW TO ACCESS State Park permit required, but there is ample trailhead parking from the main entrance off N K-61 Highway north of Hutchinson. SUMMARY The Sand Hills Loop Trail is one of five trails in the Sand Hills State Park. Thick, roving marshland grass and sloping hills showcase native Kansas wildflowers, expansive skies, and trees. The soft path is excellent for all skill levels of runners, hikers, or nature seekers. The trail is maintained but not well-marked, so review maps before hiking. Because of the marsh characteristics, consider using the trails April through October.
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HOW TO ACCESS Free parking throughout the park
2
3
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Game Kings the
A Flint Hills ranch keeps a rougher version of polo alive Story by Amber Fraley Photography by Jason Dailey
of
(and cowboys)
olo is one of the world’s oldest sports, believed to originate in the 6th century BCE among the nomadic tribes of the area that is modern Iran. Over time, the sport became associated with royalty and the upper class, in part due to the expense of keeping horses. But other people have horses—ranchers and cowboys, for example. And it turns out that their less glamorous working attire substitutes well for the whitestarched finery of regal rivals. Like polo boots, cowboy boots are tall to shield the shins. “We wear our chaps, too, which “In cowboy polo, a lot of work very well for protection. Cowboy gear works great for polo,” comments times people ride smack rancher and cowboy Josh Hoy. right into you and steal the Hoy, along with his cousin Warren Kruse, owns the 7,000-acre Flying W ball. It’s just a little rougher.” Ranch in Cedar Point, a working ranch — JOSH HOY with about 400 cow-calf pairs and 1,600 yearlings. In his free time, Hoy, his family and friends also keep the sport of cowboy polo alive. It’s a Kansas tradition dating back to at least the 1920s and 1930s—and they have the photos to prove it.
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Flying W Ranch
In 2020 the Flying W Ranch was the recipient of the Leopold Conservation Award, which “recognizes agricultural landowners actively committed to a land ethic.” It’s given to private landowners who have made a commitment to land conservation. Aldo Leopold was a revolutionary conservationist in Sauk County, Wisconsin, who wrote A Sand County Almanac in 1949. The book is a sort of philosophical treatise of essays and sketches about the ethics of protecting the natural environment as a steward of the land. “He’s one of the first people that really brought around the idea that conservation of wild lands needs to include agriculture and human beings because most land is used for agriculture and privately owned by individuals,” explains Josh. “Getting people engaged in appreciating their environment landscape is a lot more powerful conservation tool than anything else.” Josh first read A Sand County Almanac as a sixth grader, and the book had a profound impact on him, so winning the award was particularly poignant. “He’s been a big influence in my life.” The Hoys have committed themselves to ethical ranching that protects the remaining tall grass prairies of the Flint Hills by grazing ruminant animals just as the bison grazed the Flint Hills for tens of thousands of years prior.
Josh’s dad, rancher and retired Emporia State University English professor Jim Hoy, has memorialized one particular historic match that took place in Cassoday in his nonfiction book Flint Hills Cowboys: Tales from the Tallgrass Prairie, available through the University Press of Kansas. The legendary polo games between Cassoday and Wichita were part of a community celebration that included dances, a rodeo, and a barbeque. “They were celebrating the railroad coming through. It didn’t come through the central Flint Hills until 1923,” explains Jim Hoy. The polo matches took place over two days, between the “real” polo team from Wichita and the cowboy team of Cassoday, a team Jim’s dad William Hoy and his uncle Marshall Hoy played on. “The Wichita team won the first day because their horses followed the ball and the cowboys’ horses were kind of trained to not get run over by another horse, and
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they’d veer off,” says Jim. “The cowboys got together that night and decided the next day they were staying on the ball no matter what—and they did—and things got pretty rough. Two people hit the ground, I guess, from collisions, but none of them were cowboys. The Cassoday team won the second match, and the story I heard was when they suggested playing another game to break the tie, the Wichita team declined.” Growing up, Jim’s dad and uncle played cowboy polo with other cowboys in the area on the family’s original homestead, the Flying H Ranch near Cassoday. It was this tradition that inspired Jim’s son Josh to bring back cowboy polo in the early 1990s. “We just used brooms and soccer balls for a while, until we made our own mallets,” he laughs. “Eventually I found some actual mallets and polo balls to play with.” Josh and his friends played casually for a couple of years
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until they’d built their skills enough to have some tournaments with area cowboys from Matfield Green and Cedar Point. The Matfield Green versus Cassoday game, Josh says, “was pretty wild.” “There was a lot of blood spilt upon the field,” he recalls, “but also there were some good times.” Cassoday’s team is known as the Coyne Creek Polo Club, named for the creek that runs through the middle of Flying W Ranch. Josh explained the differences between traditional and cowboy polo. “In real polo you always hit the ball forward and if you miss, you ride off—you turn and get out of the way so that someone behind you can get it—so you’re always moving forward. If the ball gets stolen, you reverse and go back while the other team takes it the other way. In cowboy polo, a lot of times people ride smack right into you and steal the ball. It’s just a little rougher.” And, of course, there are the hats. Polo clubs tend to wear protective caps with short Kansas I 70 Ad - Kansas Magazine Half Page Horizontal 2 - Outlines.pdf 1 6/8/2021 6:34:17 AM
visors. Cowboy polo players tend to wear— you guessed it—cowboy hats. Otherwise, the rules are largely the same. Polo games are timed, and the team that scores the most points wins. “It’s divided into what are called ‘chukkers,’ and generally we play four chukkers of four minutes apiece, with four-person teams,” Josh explains. “The four-person team should include a striver—someone looking to score a goal—two people playing defense, and one person who can do both.” By the early 2000s, Josh had gotten out of the habit of playing polo. But when he made friends with a young man from Essex who was volunteering with foster youths at nearby YMCA Camp Wood, Josh knew he had to bring the game back again. “We call him Ollie the Englishman,” Josh says. “He’s a passionate polo player.” Ollie Williams returned to England and then moved to live and work in San Francisco, but he’s kept in touch with the KS MAGAZINE SUMMER.qxp_Layout 1 6/17/21 10:41 AM Page 1
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Fairfield Polo Club
A member of the United States Polo Association, the Fairfield Polo Club in Haysville (just south of Wichita) has organized matches and training since 1931. The club’s sport field offers polo lessons and will hold a series of tournament games open to the public throughout the summer of 2021. For more information, go online at wichitapoloclub.com.
Hoys and tries to make it back to Kansas when he can. Ironically, Camp Wood was where Ollie Williams learned to ride horses, and the Flying W was where he learned to play polo. “I ended up going back to England and pursuing polo on the side,” he says. Today, the Flying W keeps a mowed polo field of 150 yards by 100 yards and uses traffic cones to mark off the goals. While real polo fields are immaculate, “Ours is a little rough,” Josh admits. “It’s got some mole hills and gopher holes in it.” Tentatively, the Fairfield polo club south of Wichita has agreed to send an exhibition team to Cassoday in 2023 to play on the hundredth anniversary of the Cassoday cowboys versus Wichita, and as before, at least one Hoy will be in the game. Josh is sure to play, but Jim still plays cowboy polo, and now, Josh’s daughter Josie has learned to play, ensuring another generation of cowboy polo in the Flint Hills.
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