Life in Namibia TRAVEL edition by Karin Retief

Publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s note Welcome to LIN 3!

PUBLISHED BY Shadowlight Publishing P.O. Box 2225 Swakopmund Namibia PUBLISHER Karin Retief karin.r@iafrica.com COPY-EDITOR Maureen Miller GRAPHIC DESIGN Xenia Ivanoff-Erb JOURNALIST Elaine Thompson CONTRIBUTORS Marta Majo Georg Erb Gaby Tirroned Henrichsen

Copies of the magazine you are holding in your hands are on their way to the ITB Berlin Travel and Trade Show in Germany. For this reason we focussed mainly on travel, accommodation, activities and restaurants in the coastal area in particular and the rest of the country in general. I feel proud to showcase what our beautiful country has to offer to international travellers on these pages.

inside EDITORIAL History Uncovered 8 Elephant Human Relationships 10 Wild Freedom & Manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Greed 16 Dream House 38 Venjanguapi 40 Fashion Guru 46 African Vocals 50 Baby Oysters 74 Heidi 78 COPYRIGHT RESERVED Shadowlight Publishing accepts no liability of any nature arising from or in connection with the contents of this magazine. No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without prior written permission from the publisher. 2015 LIN/Shadowlight Publishing http://www.life-in-namibia.com

Our feature pages cover human interest and environmental issues as well as the arts. Enjoy this edition and please contact me with ideas for feature stories or advertising rates. Best wishes Karin

Desert Explorers Plaza Hotel Container Hotel Atlantic Villa & various spots around town.

Mariel Thompson went on a quad biking adventure with Desert Explorers’ guide Ricky van Niekerk, in search of the “little five”.

eople often jokingly refer to the dune belt between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund as the biggest playground in the world. There’s something to that statement, given just how much fun there is to be had there. An activity often associated with Swakopmund and Walvis Bay is quad biking, which affords one the opportunity to go right into the dunes and experience their sweeping and undulating beauty up close. Quad-bike tours are justifiably popular with visitors to Namibia, and there are tours suited to every itinerary or level of comfort. For those visiting Namibia with young children, quad bikes are a great way to spend a couple of hours learning about the Namib’s amazingly adapted fauna. Joining Desert Explorers’ Ricky on an overcast morning for a two-hour Explorer Tour was five-and-a-half-year-old Mariel, who was very keen on seeing the dunes as well as some Namib creepy crawlies. After being fitted with a helmet and snagging Ricky’s jacket because it was a whole lot colder than anticipated, she joined him on his quad and the search for the Little Five began. As the tour wound between the dunes

and a drizzly Swakopmund receded further from view, the first sighting was a rather shy Palmato gecko (Pachydactylus rangei), who clearly would’ve preferred a later start to his day (hardly surprising, given that he’s nocturnal). Eagle-eyed Ricky spotted where the gecko had buried himself in the dune, and after some light digging revealed him and it was time for Mariel to have a good look. Ricky patiently explained how the gecko’s webbed feet made it easy for him to walk across the soft sand, and how he licks his eyelid-less eyes to keep them moist and clean. Mr Palmato gecko turned out to be quite the showboat, and he hung around for a while allowing Ricky and Mariel, the two intrepid Beasty Hunters, to inspect him from many angles before finally allowing him to go back to sleep. A search for the Dancing White Lady spider turned out to be fruitless, and so Number Three on the must-see list turned into the second sighting of the day, although the Shovel-snouted lizard (Meroles anchietae) wasn’t nearly as accommodating as the gecko. Although Mariel got a good look, when put back down on the dune he kept diving into the sand to get away. Funnily 6

enough, his tail was still sticking out, so he wasn’t quite as hidden as he thought he was. After stopping for a quick cooldrink the tour continued to a flat gravel plain hidden among the swirling peaks of sand. Here a challenge was issued: the first person to spot a chameleon would have the honour of crowing about it! Each hardy desert shrub was examined, but the chameleons weren’t playing along. Disappointed, Ricky and Mariel drove off again, only for Ricky to come to a dramatic stop a couple of metres away. He’d spotted something out the corner of his eye, something distinctly chameleon-like. And ta-da, there he was, a swarthy Namaqua chameleon (Chamaeleo namaquensis) creeping over a bush, acting as though he’d just been caught raiding the fridge. He proceeded to eye Mariel and Ricky suspiciously (with both eyes, independently) and tolerated their up-close-and-personal inspection with reasonable grace. Obviously quite a suave number with those red spots and rather dramatic spines, his camouflage was nothing short of breathtaking. Who knows how many other chameleons were hiding on that plain, cleverly evading detection

Web: www.namibiadesertexplorers.com Phone: +264 (0)81 124 1386 Mobile: +264 (0)81 129 2380 E-mail: info@namibiadesertexplorers.com by prying humans? Another interesting sight on the plain was a chameleon skeleton, which someone had circled with stones. As Mariel’s energy was flagging (by then the adventurers had been out for over three hours), it was decided that three sightings out of the Little Five were enough and that Ricky and Mariel would return to base via the “horse graveyard”. These horse skeletons have been the subject of much conjecture among historians and people in the know, and are possibly a somewhat difficult subject to explain to young children, but they are worth seeing nonetheless. Why they are there? Apparently they belonged to the

South African army and were destroyed after an outbreak of a very contagious horse disease in around 1916. The sun has bleached the bones white, making them visible even from the air and the dry climate has preserved them, so that there are hundreds of bones strewn across a relatively large area. A succinct explanation sufficed, and then it was time to head back home. The age-appropriate tour was hugely enjoyable. Ricky was a kind and engaging and incredibly patient guide, and was quite happy to let the budding explorer set the pace. It was great to be out in nature and learning, having loads of fun while doing so.

Good to know Should you have young children in your party, inform the person taking your booking of their ages and discuss what is or is not possible with them or with your guide before heading out. Take it easy with young children and don’t attempt anything too gung-ho; going out into the dunes is physically demanding and safety should always be your first priority. Listen to your guide! Take along sunglasses (the glare in those pale dunes is something else!), sunscreen and a windbreaker; it can get quite cold out there when it’s overcast. Go with an open mind: let the smallest wonders amaze you. The hairnets might not be pretty to look at, but they have a vital function. Grin and bear them!

Story and Photos: Georg Erb

During the first world war the South

African Union Defence force shipped 30 000 horses to South West Africa via Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. They were used during the campaign under General Louis Botha between February and August 1915. Once the German imperial Schutztruppe had capitulated at Otavi in August, the Union forces occupied Windhoek to await the outcome of the war in Europe and in North and East Africa. Since the interior was stricken with drought and there was no grazing, many thousand horses were taken on a 300 km trek to Nonidas near Swakopmund during October and November 1915, where it was easier to feed them with supplies brought in by ship via Walvis Bay harbour. There were huge horse depots at Nonidas and in the area of Rhode Allee in Swakopmund. Farmers at the Swakop smallholdings instantly had a supply of horse manure that would last them into the 1930’s. Swakopmunders suddenly had an enormous problem with flies. Many thousand horses that had been severely stressed were now confined to crowded corrals. The cold foggy breezes at night also did not help conditions, and within weeks 1695 horses and 944 mules were infected with the bacterial disease glanders (“snotsiekte”)(December 1915). Since glanders can also be fatal to humans, all these infected animals were taken into the dune field outside Swakopmund and shot and buried beneath the sand. One cannot imagine what labour it must have had been to dig 2600 animals into the sand!! As decades of wind had swept over the site, the horrific extent of this massacre was almost forgotten. Yet over time, winds swept the sand futher over, exposing a few of the horses’ graves in the past few decades. When a skull is freshly exposed, it might still have traces of hair on the nose

and beneath the jaws. The sand itself is quite sterile and does not hold much in the way of bacteria or organic life. One would find many old pieces of leather straps in the sand, and many of the skull bones had turned green on the sides; discoloration by the brass buckles of the bridles that horses were buried with. The horses did not die of glanders. They were all shot at short range, with a bullet through the forehead - to avoid further spread of the disease. @ LIN

A telegram sent from a veterinarian to Defence Headquarters in Pretoria in May 1916, shedding some light on the “horse cemetery” amid the dunes a few hundred metres south of Swakopmund. 9

here is this romantic idea of wild Africa, where animals roam free and humans live in harmony with nature. Many, if not all, images in coffee table books depicting Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wild animals were in fact taken in protected, fenced off areas like nature reserves. Story and Photos: Karin Retief

Johannes Haasbroek is the founder of Elephant Human Relations (EHRA), a not for profit organisation, to conserve the desert adapted elephants and assist local communities.

fter the wild areas were cut into commercial farms and game parks little remained of what can be called true wilderness areas. In Namibia there are still areas where animals roam free, and in many of these rare places animals have to share their freedom with humans. Sharing an inhospitable environment is vital to survival, and that brings conflict in terms of resources. Animals are shot, stoned, poisoned or trapped and humans suffer property damage; gardens are destroyed and more often than the general public

realises, wild animals kill humans. As a result of these escalating conflicts between communal farmers and desert dwelling elephants in north-west Namibia, in 2001 Johannes Haasbroek, a passionate environmentalist, started to investigate the situation in order to find a solution to the problem. Not just to save the unique desert elephant but also to find ways for the community to protect their property and manage and utilise the natural resources. To protect their wildlife rather than see them as the enemy. Johannes found that the main challenge was the scarcity of water and the 10

destruction of farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; water tanks and gardens by elephants trying to access the available water. In 2003 Johannes registered Elephant Human Relations (EHRA), a not for profit organisation, to conserve the desert adapted elephants and assist local communities.

EHRA is governed by directors, who do not receive ownership or profit, and operates in the northern Erongo and southern Kunene regions with a base camp in the Ugab River.

Johannesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s research concluded that EHRA had to focus on six areas: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Conflict mitigation through the construction of water installation protection walls Education of communal farmers and stakeholders on peaceful co-existence with the elephant population Research of elephant movements and demographics in order to provide the Namibian government with management tools and information Creating international awareness of elephant conservation issues in particular and broader environmental sustainability issues through the volunteer project Providing assistance and training to local schools Providing support to conservancies, including participation in game counts, game guard training and financial planning.

To create funding, a volunteer programme was established to allow EHRA to work towards the six goals, while at the same time creating international conservation awareness through their responsible travel volunteer projects. We asked EHRA administrator and co-founder of the volunteer programme, Rachel Harris to tell us more about their project. We started the volunteer programme in 2003 with the help of seven dedicated Namibian staff. A typical volunteer programme is two weeks, although volunteers can stay longer if they wish.

Rachel Harris, on behalf of EHRA, receives the award for the Best Volunteering Organisation at the prestigious Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Awards ceremony in London in 2012.

The first week sees volunteers doing backbreaking manual labour in the desert, in extreme weather conditions.

elephants but return home with new skills and attitudes, more than what a high-end safari could deliver!

They camp under the stars in the wilderness, near wild animals, with no shower facilities, no cellphone reception.

Where else can you experience a wild elephant metres away from you, as you watch him from the safety of the tree platform or the tracking vehicle, knowing that through your efforts you and he have a connection – you have helped to conserve him and his kind?

Around 1 200 volunteers have come through the volunteer programme, building 147 protection walls and renovating the local school buildings, constructing a new library, computer room, vegetable garden, playground and kindergarten. The solid cement and stone protective wall around a water tank is to stop the elephants causing damage to windmills, as they can use their long trunks to drink water from the tank over the wall. This wall protect against any accidental damage the elephant might have done bumping, leaning or rubbing against the tank or the windmill. In the second week the volunteers join trackers on an elephant GPS patrol trek, mapping elephant movements and helping with game counts for data collection. The volunteers put in hard yet satisfying work, and in exchange experience not only deep insight into the lives of

Volunteers bring their own experiences and expertise to the programme. One made a suggestion of using chilli oil mixed with elephant poop and hung from fences in ladies’ stockings as an elephant deterrent – and it worked!

The protective walls our volunteers are building have effectively taken away the single largest area of conflict between elephants and humans. We have managed to reduce conflict by around 90% in our target area, securing water and livelihoods for approximately 8 000 people. We realise all our efforts will be in vain without the support of the community who, fearing for their lives and property, would not come on board without understanding animal behaviour and how to protect themselves. 12

As a result we have launched the PEACE project, a mobile unit that travels around the area carrying out educational workshops and training with communities, schools, tour guides and operators. The PEACE Project is run by Hendrick Munembome (Community Liaisons Coordinator and tracker) and Dr Betsy Fox, a veterinarian. Since 2012 we have provided training via the PEACE Project to 163 people from the local community, including lodge staff and community game guards. Two schools in the area, A. Gariseb Primary in a small village on the Ugab River and Frans Frederick Primary in Fransfontien each have over 300 children from farms or settlements in the areas affected by elephant movements. The workshops we carry out at these schools are to teach the children the character of elephants, to understand their behaviour patterns and the urgency of protecting them. We have installed a computer room, library, vegetable garden and playground, and have fixed toilets and bathrooms throughout the schools. In total we have contributed over N$200,000. It is important that local community takes ownership of THEIR elephants and finds benefit from live elephants rather than animals shot as trophies.

Volunteers come from all over the world, some in groups, some as individuals. In the past two years, whole families have started volunteering. They experience the magic of nature at its most basic, living in awareness of our connection to nature and the importance of protecting it.

We addressed this by training local

people as game guards, with the skills required to take tourists on elephant drives in a safe manner. Most people do not know what to do when elephants are close and often behave in the wrong way, exacerbating conflict situations. A common complaint is that the elephants are attacking the livestock in the kraals; in fact the kraal is built around a Mopani tree to provide shade for the goats, and the elephant simply wants to eat from the tree.

Another big problem is elephants damaging houses, trying to get to the Ana tree seed pods stored inside. If the storage method is adapted, elephants will have no reason to break down a house.

consultation with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism to help decide where the most urgent needs are. Breeding rates and calf mortality rates are also a good indicator of a decrease in conflict since EHRA started working in the area. In 2012, among the three herds in the area four new calves were born and survived. If you consider that the gestation period for an elephant is two years, and that stress plays a huge role in successful breeding, this is a remarkable number. In Mama Afrikaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s herd, there are four young calves between the ages of one and five. All the other elephants are 15 years and older, which quite clearly shows that

during the 10-year period before EHRA started working in the area, no calves had survived. We have worked quietly for the past nine years to try to provide solutions to elephant/human conflict, thereby conserving the small population of elephants in our area. We are a small team of dedicated, passionate people, working together to try to make a difference where we believe we are able. We believe not just in identifying problems, but providing answers and bringing solutions. Without EHRA the conservation story in this area of Damaraland would be dramatically different, of this I am certain. The population of elephants would be more or less extinct, with little chance of survival. @ LIN

The myth of the dangerous elephant vanishes very quickly when we take community members out to experience the elephants in an up close and personal situation. They see for themselves that being close to elephants can be a safe and peaceful experience if you behave in the correct manner. We record a 100% change in peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception of elephants after they attend a PEACE workshop. The decision where EHRA will help build protective walls is made in

E-mail: info@desertelephant.org Web: www.desertelephant.org FB:www.facebook.com/pages/Elephant-Human-Relations-Aid 14

Story and Photos: Georg Erb The people of the subcontinent in ages gone probably did not use “roads” other than those built by elephant and rhinoceros. Ancient rock engravings in remote desert areas testify that elephant had roamed these parts since time immemorial. The ephemeral Ugab River forms a fine line between the parched, age-old Namib plains and the savannah bushland in the highlands. The Ugab is also the border between the Erongo and the Kunene regions in the ever-arid north-western parts of the Namib desert. Now a mere three hours’ drive from the bustling town of Swakopmund and the port of Walvis Bay, the Ugab forms a somewhat hard-to-explain, squiggly boundary between the world of industry, factories, towns, mines, shopping malls and shining cars – and the archaic pastoral lifestyle in the wilderness of rural Africa. A few hundred people of the Damara and Herero tribes (mostly from the old and the very young generations) live today on communal farmland along this particular section of the Ugab River. The farmland lies north-east of the Brandberg, in and around places called Gomatsarab, Sorris-Sorris, Anichab and Rooipoort, 30 – 40 km north of the old mining town of Uis.

“The African elephant was once the lord of its domain, following its pathways over virtually all of the continent. Few areas did not feel the tread of his great cushioned feet as the grey giant sought out food, water and shade. The paths they followed were used by many generations of elephant and their selection of routes proved to be a boon for early road builders.” Chris Stuart ‘ Africa’s Vanishing Wildlife, 1996 16

Rain showers in the late summer months bring short-lived floods rushing from the faraway interior towards the notoriously desolate Skeleton Coast. Over aeons, such floods carved a deep and wide canyon into this formidable landscape. Subsequently, during very long dry periods, the canyons silted up – to depths of perhaps 20 - 35 metres. These layers of sand soak up and hold vast quantities of subterranean water, giving life to a range of riparian vegetation. Up on the grassy plains we see many thousands of Euphorbia shrubs, large Myrrh trees (Commiphora) and a great number of “fairy circles”. Where the land slopes downwards into the valleys, several Camelthorn tree colonies occur in the sandy substrate. Below, the landscape is dominated by granite intrusions, forming a multitude of spectacular inselberg outcrops, often dotted

with Moringa and Sterculia trees. Rather special here are the many tall and slender Brandberg acacia (hemelbesems). The river bed itself is lined with thousands upon thousands of stately Ana tree acacias.

But without any doubt, it is the groups of desert-dwelling elephant that add an unexpected dimension of grandeur and mysterious excitement to the landscape. During the late 18th and early 19th centuries European hunters had almost wiped out all elephant in this part of Africa. From around 1850 to 1860, ivory traders like Charles Andersson must have killed off many hundred animals during their dubious careers. Around 1900, the German colonial Schutztruppe established outposts at Fransfontein and Sesfontein, expressly to curb elephant poaching by Dorstlandtrek Boers from Angola. From 1907 onwards the

entire north-western parts of Southwest Africa were declared protected nature and wildlife reserves. After the introduction of apartheid policies and the subsequent Odendaal Commission in the early 1960s, land was awarded to the indigenous tribes. The Namibian independence war brought large numbers of soldiers and firearms into the territory. Once again, the wildlife populations were under severe threat. During the 1970s and 1980s ruthless ivory hunting and poaching took place in the northern regions. Very fortunately, after Namibian independence small-scale eco-tourism into these remote parts grew slowly and steadily. Many local people found employment at tourist lodges and safari operations, and started realising again the value of wildlife. A few dozen wild-roaming, desert-adapted elephant returned to this harsh Eden about 20 years ago. As if driven by age-old memories, a young mature bull from a more

northerly population moved to the Ugab River and spent several months exploring the area with its myriad outcrops, ravines and tributaries. The lone bull left, and around the Easter weekend of 1995 he returned with a clan of about 20 animals. This population has grown and remains in the area. These elephants need to drink water about every three days. They feed on the leaves and pods of Ana trees, grasses and sedges, Mopane leaves, the leaves and fruit of wild fig trees, Combretum leadwood and the leaves of the African ebony tree. They can be seen browsing on the Witgat tree (Boscia albitrunca) and, of course, on the lush abundant foliage of the Mustard tree thickets (Salvadora persica). It is a sight to behold to watch an adult elephant headbutting an entire enormous Ana tree, in order to shake the tasty and nutritious protein-rich pods down to the ground, where they might spend several hours gathering and munching them.

Elephants are highly social animals, living in matriarchal clans. As they gather knowledge about their territory, this is taught to younger individuals. Survival tactics and any new lifestyle adaptations are passed on to new generations. The elephants in the arid west are remarkably careful feeders. These thickskinned pachyderms, in a surprisingly sensitive way, might break branches; rarely, if ever, do they fell entire trees. In order to take good care of their food resources and not to put too much pressure on the vegetation, they travel enormous distances, very often in the much cooler moonlit nights, passing quietly over sand, gravel and rock on their large cushioned feet. They use their tusks for stripping bark, digging “gorras” in the sandy riverbeds to have access to clean fresh water. They use their tusks to excavate minerals, but those tusks, so essential for survival, have led to the decline of the magnificent beasts. High end trophy hunting is currently another real threat to their survival. Still these noble animals keep walking a fine line – a symbol of all that is sovereign and free and wild in Africa – or of all that is threatened by man’s greed for material and monetary riches. @ LIN 17

There’s no need to talk up the wonder of the Namib – its unique beauty is evident all around. That said, for those with a thirst to delve deeper and know more, to see and learn about the minutiae knitted together to make the Namib what it is, there’s a tour company that fits the bill perfectly.

Georg Erb, passionate Namibian, compulsive amateur historian and owner of the Swakop Tour Company, speaks the language of more and more detail, an insatiable quest for information, and never enough of the great adventure that is Namibia. Having grown up along the Swakop River and after a lifetime spent exploring the far reaches of the Swakop and Khan River canyons, familiarising himself with many of the switchbacks, rock arches and caves to be found there, Georg relishes the opportunity to share what he’s discovered.

Always taking care to “tread lightly” during his Klipspringer Tour, which descends into the canyons, Georg regales his guests with information on how the geology of the area has been shaped, how the ecology of the desert has adapted to the climate, and what influence human history has had. His near-encyclopaedic knowledge of the history of Swakopmund and Namibia, and the accessible way in which he is able to illustrate how little changes in the desert over long periods of time, or how quickly and dramatically change can occur when it does, means guests are treated to a broad and vivid description of life in the canyons. 18

They are left hanging on every word. As the tour starts at 14h00 and lasts until around 19h00, guests see the canyons at their best, bathed as they are at that time in the soft, cognac-coloured late afternoon light. A photographer’s dream come true, it’s a just reward for those who choose to see it and to be there.

Advertorial - Swakop Tour Company

Booking a tour Georg offers a range of tours as well as a slightly shorter Dunes of the Namib tour, aimed at those who would like to explore the dune belt along the coast. The Dunes of the Namib tour begins at 16h00 and finishes at 19h00, affording guests ample opportunity to photograph and soak up those inimitable Namibian sunsets. Contact Georg Erb T +264 81 124 2906 E proverb@afol.com.na W www.swakoptour.com www.facebook.com/swakoptour 19

s I walk down the gangway early one

morning and make my way to Laramon’s Libertina catamaran, I’m having quite a stern conversation with myself. Spoiled as we are here in Namibia with our abundant wildlife, and plentiful opportunities to get up and personal with it whether in the bush or out at sea, we’re often tempted to undertake a bush drive or a cruise with a list of “must sees”.

Having previously been on a great cruise off Walvis Bay, which didn’t result in any “big ticket” sightings, this time my internal dialogue is telling me to temper my expectations. No expectations equals no disappointment, right? So I board, determined to be all zen about the trip and to simply enjoy the change from my usual Tuesday routine. Determined as I am simply just to “be” (that is, “be” on a luxurious catamaran, thank you very much, with no ringing telephones or computers to wrestle with), I realise pretty quickly that being zen isn’t going to be easy on a boat full of excitedly chattering tourists. I’m comfortably ensconced on board after having been shuttled to Walvis Bay, and there’s a definite hint of anticipation in the air. To my left sits a slightly blasé group, whose countenance says “Amaze us, why don’t you?” They wear their obvious travel experience well, and seem just a little sceptical as they pass around the flip-file

The chatter and volume goes up a notch as our skipper, Walter, starts powering us out of the harbour area. Skipper’s assistant Jackson whistles and soon there’s much oohing and aahing as a fly-by of pelicans races to catch up with the catamaran and the fish that Jackson is proffering. Suddenly, shrieks sound from the back of the catamaran – a seal has swum up alongside and waddled up the stairs and is now holding court on one of the benches. The tourists are going crazy – there’s

containing information on what we may see.

absolutely nothing nonchalant about

I mentally elbow myself in the ribs and acknowledge that I’m

hitching a ride on our cruise. They’re all

not going to be able to soak up The Experience if I’m busy eavesdropping on tourists …

their reaction to the fact that there’s a seal clamouring to touch him (Sakkie, as this particular seal is known, is pretty laid back

Advertorial - Laramon Tours

and happy to be petted) and the cameras

day to be out on the water: the sun is

are going off on rapid fire. Walter explains

shining, the water is calm and the wind

how seals always swallow fish head first

hasn’t picked up yet. Walter and Jackson

– going so far as to turn them the “right”

answer non-stop questions and tell us

way with their noses before swallowing

about the cruises they’ve done and what

– and how two layers of fur keep the seal

they’ve seen. Suddenly we all cotton

well insulated. Sakkie the Seal loves the

on to the fact that Walter is steering us

attention and is playing the crowd like a

into a particular position on purpose;

seasoned pro.

there are other operators nearby and it’s clear that something big might be

A sighting like this has whet everyone’s

in the offing. Well, with a forceful blow

appetite for more and quite frankly, I’m

and gentle rolling breach a humpback

finding it pretty damn difficult to maintain

whale announces its presence, which is

this zen business. As we head out past

plenty big in my book. At this point I think

the oyster farms towards Pelican Point

most of us would have returned to the

and the lighthouse, everyone seems to

waterfront happy. But no! There was more,

be enjoying the fact that it’s a perfect

so much more!

Advertorial - Laramon Tours

In the space of the next half hour we see dolphins, two mola-molas (sun fish), loads more seals, a lost penguin and another humpback whale. A seal literally surfs the catamaran’s wake as we head back to the waterfront. The excitement levels reach fever pitch and as one formerly nonchalant but now incredulous tourist says to another: “If I didn’t have photos to prove it, no one would believe me if I told them about what we’ve just seen!” The cruise winds up with a delicious spread comprising snacks and fresh Walvis Bay oysters, all washed down with some crisp sparkling wine (necessary to settle those revved-up nerves). Virtuous intentions aside, I don’t think I’d ever thought that ticking off a wish list of everything we saw that day was achievable. But there you go; my nonexistent expectations were far exceeded, and then some! A Tuesday above all Tuesdays! Laramon Tours and Catamaran Cruises Web: www.laramontours.com E-mail: laramontours@iway.na +264 81 124 0635 or +264 81 128 0635 25

With its proximity to the ocean in a quiet area, a two-minute walk to the famous The Wreck Restaurant and a five-minute walk to the new Shopping Mall and Waterfront - Platz Am Meer it has become one of Swakopmundâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accommodation, events and conference jewels. 26

Atlantic Villa Boutique Guesthouse & Conferencing more than you expect

this arch is not freestanding but

presentations. The smaller business

right place at the right time, but in Atlantic

attached to the structure, symbolising

lounge can comfortably host up

Villa’s case it was more “catch the eye of

an African boma. The feeling is that of

to 12 people, the idea being to

Wesley Snipes for accommodation!”

entering a compound, a hub or village.

accommodate small, intimate groups

ometimes you just need to be in the

for business meetings. Two months after the movie star finished

The guesthouse has kept its original

filming in Namibia, the stage was set for

homely feel, but still offers the

this family home to grow into one of the

conventional features of a hotel.

best accommodation and conference offerings at the coast. Owner Gerhard van der Merwe says, “After the great success of hosting the Hollywood crew in my house, I took the opportunity to buy three adjacent properties and revamped my home into a guesthouse.”

It took seven years to finish the Atlantic Villa and the result is nothing short of impressive. Entering the premises, you walk through a towering arch which, with its rounded top and square entablature reminds you of Roman-inspired triumphal arches, such as the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. But unlike the European triumphal arches, build to commemorate war victories,

The calming sound of a water feature greets you in the 24hour reception area, which is lit by a blue neon light for easy spotting at night. Next to reception is the entrance to the lounge, bar and breakfast area. Luxury is the watchword in the lounge area, and guests can relax on stylish leather couches in front of a wood fire, while reading a good book and sipping good coffee. The conference centre is used for executive meetings, teambuilding sessions and as a favourite meeting place for local and foreign businessmen and women alike. State of the art digital equipment is available for multi-media 28

The wine cellar is multifunctional and is often used for wine tasting evenings and social functions; it has the feel of a warm, cosy cave. An impressive wine collection adorns the walls, wine barrels are used as tables, and candles make this cellar a must to visit. The style of this establishment can be described as classic contemporary, with soft traces of nautical elements. The choice of warm colours gives a cosy and luxury feel to the overall look of the guesthouse. True to the concept of a boma, Atlantic Villa offers different outdoor venues for weddings, social functions

ATLANTIC VILLA BOUTIQUE GUESTHOUSE & CONFERENCING

and live entertainment, in the form of a grass terrace as well as two rooftop areas, with a beautiful view over the ocean. The new waterfront development, Platz Am Meer, which is still under construction, is only five minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; walk away and offers shopping mall convenience.

Guests talk about the quiet tranquility they feel when they walk through the arch entrance, a feeling of coming home after a busy day in town or a desert outing. At sunset they stroll along the beach or head towards the popular The Wreck Restaurant for a sundowner, returning later laughing, chatting and holding hands, entering through the arch again to their home away from home. Tel +264 64 46 3511 Mobile +264 81 127 2311 Email ina@atlantic-villa.com Web www.atlantic-villa.com

Architects Michiel Coetzee and KB Designs designed the Atlantic Villa Boutique Guesthouse & Conferencing.

In the centre of Swakopmund, an old and dark

‘80s style building has been transformed into

a superstylish oasis of comfort and calm – the recently completed Swakopmund Luxury Suites. As you enter the building, hot and tired after a long journey, a masterful combination of materials and images transports you to a place of comfort and serenity. The marriage of steel, wood and stone throughout the entrance hall is dappled by light that pours through a skylight, dancing off a glass bottle, suggesting the ocean nearby. The décor is soft and pared down, with a colour palette of white, sea green and shades of brown and blue. Although each room has its own personality, the essence and feel of the building follow a similar theme throughout.

The décor was inspired by nature, the ultimate artist. A pale or monotone minimalist palette can seem very cold, but this was cleverly overcome by combinations of textures like cement, wood, stone, glass and clay, as well as the mix of textiles in each of the rooms.

Advertorial - Swakopmund Luxury Suites

Advertorial - Swakopmund Luxury Suites With this combination of textures referencing the surrounding desert and ocean, a stylish and inviting interior has been created. With 12 Standard Suites, three Luxury Suites (of which two are suited to families), and a Honeymoon Suite, Swakopmund Luxury Suites has an option to suit every need. The suites are open plan, with bathrooms demarcated by frosted glass (which echoes the sea glass throughout the suites) and quartz carpeting. The light and fresh décor invites guests to savour the restful atmosphere, and there is a central courtyard deck with comfortable seating for those who would like to soak up the sunshine and peace outside. Added luxuries include quality Swakopmund Luxury Suites-branded toiletries in all the suites, while the Luxury Suites have seating areas and Nespresso coffee machines.

The Honeymoon Suite is spectacular, with a statement bath overlooking the suite’s own Juliet balcony. Perfectly appointed, it is the last word in comfort and style. While there are no restaurant facilities on site, breakfasts are served at Bojo’s Café, a short walk up the road, which is known for its delicious fare. Swakopmund Luxury Suites’ location in the heart of town offers guests the perfect base from which to explore all that Swakopmund has to offer – the beaches, the Swakopmund Museum, Kristal Gallery, the Aquarium, the jetty, the shopping precinct and many excellent restaurants are all within walking distance.

Tel

+264 64 463298

Email info@swakopmundluxurysuites.com Web www.swakopmundluxurysuites.com 35

Echoing the adage that less is more, a note in the guestbook at reception says it all:

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Much appreciated the stylish comfort and tranquility in the heart of townâ&#x20AC;?

This is a story about a house. In fact, it’s the story of a dream house, both for the family living in it and the architect who imagined it into being. Despite the fact that there were some serious obstacles that needed to be overcome, this is the tale of how a professional was provided with a brief that gave him design carte blanche, and how he in turn designed a house for a family that has become their home and their refuge, and which they absolutely love. It’s also a story of friendship, and of being in it for the long run. This is the story of 50 Strand Street, Swakopmund. Architect Erhard Roxin freely admits that 50 Strand Street was the project of a lifetime. “I drive past the house at least

twice a day, as it’s on the same street as my home, and I feel a thrill and deep sense “of satisfaction when I see it. In fact, I feel quite possessive about the house, and it was a little difficult to hand it over when it was finished!” Part of Roxin’s affinity with the house could be attributed to the fact that he was on site daily during its construction and oversaw every stage, but it is also largely because it is the physical manifestation of his design. “My clients on this project really were great: they had a very clear idea of how the house should work for their family, but they gave me free rein with regard to bringing it to life. Their only request was not to disappoint them. This was the design opportunity of a lifetime and simultaneously an enormous responsibility, so I made sure I fulfilled their wishes.” The site had its difficulties: the narrow erf is a corner stand on Swakopmund’s

busy beach road. There were many factors that needed to be considered, and so Roxin spent a weekend there, observing, plotting and visualising. “During the time I was on the site getting a feel for it before commencing drawing, it was as if the site spoke to me. So many things needed to be taken into account – the weather on the beachfront, the prevailing wind direction, how much sun would stream in at different times of the day, how to maximise the site without encroaching on the neighbours, and how busy the roads would be at certain times and how that would affect how the house would ‘live’. Essentially I had to observe the fundamentals and establish what the ‘law’ of the site is and also, most importantly, create an exciting design that would function as a family home.” The end result is spectacular, both as something to look at and something

to live in. Despite the striking design, 50 Strand Street is not a showcase; it’s a home that lives beautifully. With double volume spaces, clean lines and custom fittings and lighting throughout, the house has exceeded both the owners’ and Roxin’s expectations. There’s a touch of visual humour, too: the eye-catching red frame outside is echoed in unexpected places throughout the house.

“The greatest luxury we had was time; we didn’t need to rush this project. The owners didn’t have a deadline for moving in, so we could aim for and achieve the best. I’ll probably never have another project like it.” @ LIN

She was the most beautiful woman I had ever seen, with a mythical energy that drew me into her world. I wanted to sit down and stare at her, but instead tried to busy myself with the task of cooking maize over an open fire.

verything about her was so different from me, and yet so alike. Her skin was shining red and her hair had long beautiful plaits, which would fall over her face with every movement she made. She had a shy smile and inquisitive eyes. She was in the first group of women to visit my campsite. They kept their distance for a couple of days, giggling behind cupped hands. Slowly, day by day, they ventured closer, she always taking the first step. She was the first to try to communicate, and later to take me by the hand and show me her garden. Even in those early days I knew she had the heart of a lion. Her name was Venjanguapi and she lived in the area where I was photographing a documentary on life in the Kunene Region as seen through the eyes and words of the family of Chief Tjihoto. I formed a close relationship with Venjanguapi from that very first day. Our souls found a connection that crossed physical distances and times spent apart in vastly different worlds. We found a connection as sisters and as women – learning from one another’s journeys how to navigate our own. The first time we met, I lived with the family for six weeks. I spent most of my time with the women in their gardens. The family is semi-nomadic, which meant they moved between two areas depending on the season and the rains. That first year the rains had been good and the crops were lush green and standing tall.

She sits back when she sees me, unwraps her baby from her back and we settle under a tree sharing warm, thick milk.

She said, “You must write my story, it is finished. We Himba women are in trouble, you must go back home and tell my story.”

I never thought that a connection between two humans could be so strong

Her father had agreed to a marriage proposal - when she was five years old. He had negotiated for a long time with the family of her future husband - before an agreement was reached.

I would find 17-year-old Venjanguapi, in her garden, her baby boy wrapped firmly on her back, busy grinding an ochre stone into powder. She mixed this with fat to make the characteristic red ointment that covers every Himba’s body and clothes.

without language. Sounds, elaborate gestures and the little bit of her language I was picking up enabled us to gossip for hours or simply sit and enjoy each other’s company in unembarrassed silence.

As she grinds, her body sways to and fro to the rhythm of a murmured melody. Small black lines form down her arms and chest where the sweat has cleared away the ochre from her skin.

Ten years later, she pointed to my unopened notebook and gestured to me to write something down. By then I had a translator travelling with me, and called him over. 42

She knew nothing of this and when her mother told her to get ready for a long journey, she thought they were going to visit family. She was about six years old when she got married to a much older man she had never met. She cannot remember details of the ceremony, only that she was shocked,

Those that were in unhappy marriages had lovers, sometimes with the knowledge and unspoken permission of their husbands. They would have their lovers’ babies, but the children were raised as though they were the husband’s children. This accommodation let me to believe that in some cases marriage was a business agreement or a political decision. Love and sex were not frowned upon and not necessarily part of marriage. Chief Tjihoto had three wives, but his girlfriend Twakoseka was his only true love and he made no secret of it. A young girl, Mukakamunwe (she was about nine when I first met her), was later married to a man who could have been her grandfather. She had a baby when I met up with her a few years later, beaming and definitely not unhappy with her situation. She did not have to sleep with her husband, and had had a lover for many years. She lived in her husband’s homestead and raised her lover’s baby as her husband’s. On my second visit, I found the homestead abandoned. The family had temporarily moved to better grazing fields for their livestock and Venjanguapi was not there. She had just given birth to a daughter and was at her mother’s homestead. Lise, a friend, Ester a translator and I walked the two-hour journey to her.

scared and cried for days. After the ceremony, she was taken back to her family where she lived till the day she got her first period, then her husband came to fetch her and she moved to his family’s homestead.

as his property. Through the years she would tell me how many women had committed suicide since we last saw each other. One reason was abusive husbands, the other rejection from their family when they started going to church.

The abuse started soon after she arrived. Beatings, rape, verbal abuse were many and brutal. He married two more women after her and the three wives bore the brunt of his alcohol-induced rage and short temper.

Venjanguapi said to me, “When a Himba woman is in trouble, the only way out is to hang herself from a tree.”

“He is treating us like slaves,” she would often say. They were trapped, not because divorce is impossible, but because they could not take their children with them if they did – he claimed the children

As in everything in life, there is not just one truth and I spoke to many youngsters in love who had the blessings of their families to marry each other. The women in the family I got to know were by no means the victims of their situations. 43

I was so happy to see her I could not believe she was actually there. She stood tall, with full breasts and a tiny baby in her arms, a broad smile and sparkling eyes. As we settled in her cool hut it felt as though we had not seen each other for an hour, not a whole year. With Ester translating, it was the first time we could use words to communicate. Ester could hardly catch her breath as we sped along, at last we could verbalise everything we had said the previous year. Her baby’s name is Ryakohoka, which means clean. But she said that she would give her another name now that I had come – Karin (pronounced by her as Korenge) in celebration of our friendship. It was a precious gift.

She said she had known I was coming as she had been dreaming about it. I left her feeling that our conversation was not finished but grateful that at least we had had the chance to see each other. A few visits later when she was about 21, she told me she was planning to leave her husband and was strategising about how she would ask her uncle for her own livestock and to live with her sister. She had three children by then. Back home I was having constant dreams about her, worrying when I was awake, worrying when I was asleep. I started a full time job as chief photographer at the Cape Times, but eventually took a month’s unpaid leave to make the trek up north, taking my sister along for company. I just HAD to see if she was ok. When I saw her, my heart ached for her; she was eight months pregnant and in despair. Her husband had refused a divorce and the abuse had become worse. He treated her with disdain and was drinking heavily. Eventually she took her children one night and fled to her father’s homestead. Her husband came to fetch her, and she had no choice but to go back with him. She fell in love with a man shortly after this, fell pregnant with his child and tried to run away again. Her husband caught her and gave her the option to go; however he would not divorce her, and she could not take the three children with her. Fearing for her own and her unborn child’s life, she had to make the unspeakable choice to leave without her children. She described the daily pain as “like a wound that does not stop bleeding, it is cut each day on the same spot.”

And it was not just emotional pain she was suffering; she had such severe abdominal pain she could hardly walk, and believed it was her husband’s family who had put a curse on her for running away. It would be four years before I could make it back to her. I was freelancing again and brought my husband and son to meet her. My son turned one on the day we met up with her and the family. It was raining and we spent most of the time in our tent, with other women and all our children, talking through a translator. They were happy that I had become so beautifully fat and at last had a child. The women could never understand why I did not have any children at my age, often asking to see my breasts as proof. They gave my son a name, Rakotoko, meaning “free”. The family wanted to slaughter a goat for a naming ceremony, but we could not stay long as we were worried about the rain and the possibility of fast-flowing rivers on our journey back. Venjanguapi was happy. Her husband had finally agreed to a divorce. She showed me a picture of the man she loved, carefully handling it not to stain it red when she placed it back in a plastic sleeve. He is a policeman, living in a town far away, and visits her sporadically. She is living with her sister and mother, raising her lover’s two children. The children will, however, go and live with her soon to be ex-husband, when the youngest turns three. Even if she married her lover, her five children belong to her husband and will be raised by his family. But, she lived close enough to visit them often. @LIN

She is free for the first time in her life. 45

“When I am being photographed I like my pictures to tell a story, you will see that in most of my images. The garments that I design and wear are made with a mood board for concept and have a theme for a story. As part of your discovering process, you can express yourself in fashion when you do not quite know who you are.” Loux is inspired by Zarno Skorzch designs, because they reflect a legendary vintage era. But, he says, “African prints are currently dominating the fashion world. I have seen them being showcased in both Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. Indeed, there are African fashion designers enjoying international success, such as David Tlale from South Africa. His designs are elegant and challenge the clichéd and predictable.” Our very own Namibian fashion designer and stylist is not far behind and is on his way to showcase at Berlin Fashion Week, as well as being part of Pitti Uomo – the Contemporary Global Lifestyle event in Italy from 16 to 19 June this year. Despite his busy life as designer, he collaborates with the Khumbula group, whose mission is close to his heart. “It is very important to me that we show the world another side of Africa. Together as African artists, photographers and fashion designers we are sharing our collective creative energy with the rest of the world. Africa is Love. The rest I leave to God to lead the journey.” @LIN

Photo: Harness Hamese

loux.gebhardt@yahoo.com

Lourens Loux Gebhardt, better known as Loux the Vintage Guru, is known not only as one of Namibia’s rising fashion designers, but just as much for his dress code: vintage. Loux left a promising career as an auditor to follow his dream of fashion design. “I had a very spiritual youth while growing up in Windhoek. My late grandfather and father were my role models, maybe they are the reason I choose to wear clothing from the 1950s to 1980s!” When Loux finished school, he worked for Namibia Catholic Bishops Conference

and then for a mining company as an accountant/internal auditor. At the same time he studied Auditing and Accounting at the Institute of Internal Auditors SA and at the Polytechnic of Namibia. While attending a short course in internal auditing in Johannesburg in 2013, Loux was inspired by friends wearing vintage clothing. “They looked so cool! So I decided to transform my style into vintage, I was 29 years old at the time.” Now his heart was pulling in a different direction, and shortly after the Joburg visit he started full time fashion design. “What I love about fashion is that we all have different tastes in what we wear, and what we wear defines our personality. 46

Photo: TanyaDavidow

“Hamese is a soft-spoken gentleman with an effortless command of sartorial super powers. I was instantly drawn to his style on first meet, his style is refreshingly old, classic and timeless with a subtle touch of edge that in my opinion represents the signature look of the modern gentleman.” – Allen A. Coleman of Fresh Wall Street Harness Hamese is a South African photographer and is responsible for the iconic photos of Loux the Vintage Guru, the Namibian fashion sensation. They met through “Khumbula”, a collective group of young African photographers who are passionate about telling African stories from their own experience. “We grew tired of how the media portrayed a onesided version of Africa and we decided with the aid of the Internet to show it the way we live it. We aim to connect with other Africans to spread goodwill among the many different nations. We have taken on that responsibility because we as Khumbula believe that ‘Love is African’.”

and my surroundings. What triggered the interest in conceptual/ fine art photography were the magazines I stumbled across at a local newsagent. I would sit for hours, paging through photo magazines that contained unreal and beautiful images of travel, portraits, micro-photography of insects and dream-like wedding photography. I was blown away!” He has a unique and original style to his photo-making process, which is cinematic storytelling. “I love the idea of isolating complementary objects that revolve around my subject matter. I believe that’s effective in transporting the viewer right into the image. I am in love with fashion photography. There are many that inspire and influence my work in different ways. Koto Bolofo, a Vogue fashion photographer, is one of them. He is basically living my dream. At this very moment though, I can’t keep my eyes off Jim Naughten’s work, his tones – oh my! I can’t explain.” @LIN Follow our work and be part of our experience. Facebook: Khumbula Instagram // Tumblr: @harnesshamese Twitter: @HarnessHamese Email: harnesshamese@gmail.com

Harness’s childhood can be described as urban nomadic, as his mother moved her family frequently. From this exposure to different surroundings, he developed a keen sense of interest in the world, later to be captured through photography. “While growing up I was an avid underground hip hop collector and fascinated by RZA from the American hip hop group, the Wu-Tang Clan. He always appeared as being comically epic in his lyrics, and his production of beats managed to knock me into a trance. I not only wanted to be like him; according to me, I was a part of the Wu-Tang Clan as Axis the Swordsman!” Underground hip hop challenged him to read books on psychology, because the objective of the music was to elevate the mind. He considered studying psychology, but at the same time wanted to be a Rapper and a B-boy! Luckily for the photography world, his interest in the medium was sparked one day when he picked up an old family album. “My interest in photography started in 2007 when I came across my family album and realised the only pictures I had of myself and my family were from when I was about seven years old. I bought a Kodak M1063 camera, which was all I could afford (not that I knew anything about cameras at that time), and set about photographing family, friends

Photo: Harness Hamese 47

The desert night is bright, clear and starlit. I’m a tour operator, and as my clients and I take our seats to wait for a choir to perform, I start planning my escape route – I am not going to sit through another tourist-orientated performance. But this time I am glued to my seat. When the a cappella group, “African Vocals” gets going, I am in awe. These youngsters radiate inner happiness. Their energy moves into the rhythm of the African drum as they sing, dance, rejoice, shout, scream, ululate, trrrrriiii, shshshshe, shake, whistle, drum and clap … their trembling feet kick the sand to dust, the smoke of the camp fire carries their sound of music into the Namib desert. The audience’s attention is riveted by the seven young men. Uninhibited, without blinking an eye, we jerk, twitch and convulse to the African rhythm of their flowing melodies, the beautiful clear tremolo voices and their unpretentious charm. I am interested in finding out more about who these young men are, so I meet up with them several days later.

Pursuing a music career is tough for these young men; only two of them have “day jobs”, but they are very committed and believe they will make a success of their careers.

Their introduction to choir singing was in various church choirs, which most of them were forced into by their parents. Joseph says, “My dad was not that much into music, but mom was.

They all sang in the Mascato Youth Choir, the music school started by Ena Venter, a retired music teacher with a passion to uplift disadvantaged children through music, song and dance.

“She was a leader in her church choir and dragged me to church, where I had to sing, squeezed in between two huge sweating women, me the only child in the choir.

Joel Nambuli is the group leader and says by using the choir as an example they want to promote peace and understanding among people from different backgrounds. Between them they speak six different Namibian languages: Herero, Afrikaans, English, Damara, Oshivambo and even the click-sounding !Xu language of the San people (or Bushmen, as they prefer to be called).

“My dad was into soccer and wanted me to join him on Sundays on the field, which I did whenever he could convince mom. I guess my mother ‘won’ in the end, as I grew to enjoy singing in church and love the message from God.”

This diversity of cultures, in unity as Namibians, is something they are proud of. Joel says, “We want to make it as musicians not just for ourselves, but for other Namibian kids who have big dreams but do not always have the opportunities. The messages in our songs are those of hope.”

Denzel says, “In the beginning my family did not believe this could be a career for me, but now, especially since we went to Germany in 2014, they’ve been taking it seriously and supporting me.” As for Ricky, whose father is a town councillor, he started singing when the family moved to Swakopmund. “I grew up on a farm east of Mariental and after Grade 8 we moved to Swakopmund, where I met the other choir members and started singing. I thought my father would want me to study something academic after school, but he said as long as I am happy with what I am doing, I must do it.”

The group are slowly but surely establishing themselves, planning a visit to Germany in 2016 to sing in the Africa Festival in Wurzburg. This is the biggest showcase of African music and culture in Europe, where 100 000 people attend and 250 musicians and dancers perform across four stages in circus tents all along the river Main. During this festival the choir will be both ambassadors for Namibia and a wonderful example of how different tribes and backgrounds can come together in union. @ LIN Joel Nambuli can be contacted on Tel +264 814217546 Email joelnambuli@gmail.com Web www.african-vocals.com 50

Advertorial - Swakopmund Container Hotel

As you exit Swakopmund on beach road, just before the bridge, a strange-looking structure catches your eye â&#x20AC;&#x201C; colourfully painted shipping containers, stacked on top of each other. On closer inspection you see windows and doorframes, and when you look inside you are amazed to find a high-end hotel room, complete with 100% cotton sheets and stylish bathroom. Shipping containers, usually boring and rusting away in harbours, can look pretty amazing with a bit of imagination. Container living is taking the world by storm as they are cost effective and mobile. In Europe skyscraper hotels have mushroomed all over, and single cabin containers are just as popular as holiday homes. The tourism hub envisaged for the area where you now find Desert Explorers will be a one-stop shop for all tourist needs. The planned Information Center for booking activities, craft shops, quad biking, camel rides, restaurants and internet lounge would not be complete without accommodation. As the land is not owned by the developers, Gerhard van der Merwe came up with the idea of a container hotel, which offered a perfect solution. NAMSPACE took on the challenge to custom build them, taking into consideration hot weather and insulation for cold evenings. The results are funky looking container hotel rooms, perfectly placed in the tourism hub of Swakopmund.

Oipuka travel consultants will organise a truly, intimate and personalized African bush experience. Small things make the difference. Fly in safaris, exclusive private trips, mobile tented camps, cycling trips, anything you dream, it will be beyond your expectations.

OIPUKA TRAVEL CONSULTANTS E-mail: info@oipuka.com . Web: www.oipuka.com . Mobile: + 26 481 128 7468

hen Alexandra Schimanski talks

was a celebration for many months. We

about top-up, it has nothing to do with a

also opened our house and had three

drink. In fact, she is describing travelling!

people from East Berlin staying with us

LIN meets up with Travel Smart owner

for a couple of weeks before they got themselves sorted.

Alexandra for a coffee at Café Anton one late afternoon.

“My mother was a travel agent and we travelled a lot in my youth; I guess it

Alex strikes you as reserved, even shy, but

was just a natural thing for me to

when she starts talking about her work

follow in her footsteps.

as a travel agent her face beams with enthusiasm and friendliness.

“I learned from her that a travel agent has a huge responsibility. I am passionate

“My work is my passion!” her eyes

about my clients and it breaks my heart

sparkle, “for me it’s more than a job, it’s

if I hear of instances where travel agents,

a responsibility and a great privilege

through their own incapability or lack

and what I love most is to tailor-make a

of interest, were the cause of someone’s

holiday for someone. People describe me

disaster holiday.”

as a control freak, but I see it as an asset because it’s my responsibility to

To get back to the “topping up” mentioned

ensure the client is offered the

earlier, this is what Alex means when she

best deal and best service.

talks about her passion for tailor-made

Alex was in the top three of her class when

vacations. “I’ve come to realise that some

she studied tourism in Germany. “I went

“After all, it is usually a much-needed

tourists come to Namibia and after 10 days

through harsh training conditions that

holiday, sometimes saved for and planned

of camping or two weeks on a self-drive

were not easy, but it was all worth it. This is

for months. The client trusts me to get

safari, they feel like something totally

more than work for me, it’s my calling!”

the job done, to do it right and to think it

different, like relaxing for a while on a

through. I care about my customers.

tropical beach. So I suggest to them a top-

After college, she came to Namibia to

up, like adding a trip to the Seychelles to

visit her grandmother. “I did not want

their itinerary.

to leave! So I got myself a job at a local

“It’s not just about selling a ticket, but about giving them the best customer

tour operator. During this time I gained

service I can – if I don’t know something

“Through the years I’ve managed to

enormous experience and knowledge

I will find out. My goal is to be a valuable

establish a great network to access special

about Namibian tourism specifically and

asset in that person’s travel plans.”

deals. For example, in topping up a trip to

international travel in general. After three

Seychelles, I can offer a reasonably priced

years I made the decision to establish my

Alexandra grew up in West Germany, but

private boat that will take you exploring

own business, Travel Smart.”

her great-grandparents came from East

all around the coast.

Germany. “I was a child when the wall

She sits back and takes what seems like the

came down, and we were living right

“I do not put people in boxes, but rather

first breath since we sat down an hour ago.

there! I remember people running down

try to get to know them during our

Her eyes still sparkle with such enthusiasm

the streets hugging each other, crying and

discussion so that I can suggest the best

that all I want is to rush home and dust off

laughing at the same time.

possible package for them. What sounds

my faithful backpack!

like chit chat to others is actually a way for “Every house took people in off the

me to figure out what it is that this family

street to give them accommodation

wants or needs from their holiday and

and food. Everybody was so happy – it

what will suit these needs.” 54

Alexandra Schimanski Mobile + 264 81 4780680 E-mail travelsmart@iway.na

Advertorial - Hafeni Tours and Travel

s a teenager Heinrich Hafeni watched a documentary on Aristotle Onassis, the Greek shipping magnate who started off as a telephone operator and became one of the richest men in the world in his lifetime. He found in Onassis’ story the inspiration to believe that he too could one day build a successful business. “I grew up in Mondesa without a father. My mother, a domestic worker, and my grandmother, a cleaner, had to support five children and we sometimes did not have enough money for food. “Some days we would have food only because my mother brought leftovers home from the household where she worked as a domestic worker. I was the oldest and the head of the household, and felt a great responsibility not only to support my family but to better our lives. “That documentary showed me that no matter what hand life deals you, it is up to you to make a success.”

Hafeni Cultural Tours & Transfers

OUR CULTURE OUR PRIDE Mobile: +264 81 2773074

Hafeni got his first job as a dishwasher at Hotel Gruner Kranz and two years later was promoted to waiter. During this time he studied after hours to complete Grade 12. He was fascinated by the overland trucks he saw in town and started speaking to tour operators and tour guides, excited about their work, the places they visited and people they met. “In 2005 I got the opportunity to join Acacia Namibia, a travel company, and before long found myself looking after 24 clients, guiding them through Uganda, Malawi and Zambia. I had been searching for something to better myself, and found it in tourism.” What surprised Hafeni was that tourists, when they stopped to camp, more often than not wanted to visit a village to learn more about the culture of the people of the country they were travelling through. He approached the chiefs of the areas and received permission from them to organise visits to their homesteads.

at the age of 28 I started my own business” Now, five years into running his own business, Hafeni has firmly established himself in the tourism industry, supplying work to others and supporting his family. He is adamant that what he shows tourists in Mondesa is real life and not the living museums he had seen in other African countries. “I want tourists to see and experience life in Mondesa as we know it. “It’s important that I tell them our history and explain social issues like the informal settlements and the migrant life, as things are not always as they seem. “They might look at a child standing in front of a traditional hut and feel sorry for him, but what they don’t realise is that that child is well taken care of and lives a healthy, happy life. Riches are not calculated in what you own but in how you take care of your elders, your respect for your parents and responsibility to your community. Wealth is measured in family.”

“When we arrived in Namibia, the travellers would ask me to show them where I grew up. I started taking them to my grandmother’s house, where my mother would cook us a meal and we enjoyed their company.

During his township tour, he takes his clients to his grandmother’s home in Mondesa where his mother cooks traditional Oshivambo food for his clients. “These two women are the inspiration to me to become an exemplary son of my generation.”

“I thought, this is the culture I know, I’ve been taking tourists all over Africa but this is my village. I was caught up in the ease of earning a salary, so it was a hard decision to make; I was a grown man and needed to start my own business. I resigned my safari job in December of 2010 and the next year

Introducing the different cultures of Namibia to visitors is something close to his heart and he is planning a Cultural Center at the entrance to Mondesa, where many different cultures will be represented in music, dance, art and food.

Sport and youth development in Namibia are at the heart of the new Swakopmund Indoor Sport Centre (SISC). This N$100 million building project is the brainchild of developers Horst Fritze and Paul vanBiljon, both prominent Swakopmund businessmen. Michiel Coetzee, also from Swakopmund, is the architect.

The SISC consists of a commercial hub, with businesses such as clothing, health and beauty shops, restaurants, offices, with accommodation, wellness center, VIP lounge and conference rooms to be operational in the near future. The massive dome behind it covers the biggest hall in Africa, which through its sheer size can accommodate almost any sporting, entertainment or commercial event.

Advertorial - SISC

Swakopmund Indoor Sport Centre

This scale of investment into sport and youth development is a first for Namibia and a labour of love for the two developers. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not capital gain that motivates these two investors, but a firm belief that sport plays a vital role in the holistic development of healthy future generations.

We asked Horst Fritze and Paul van Biljon for a bit more background on this iconic development. Why a new sport center and why this size? It started when we as parents of children playing inline hockey realised they could not compete internationally on par with other clubs, as our indoor sport center here in Swakop was too small, it was not Olympic size. While looking into the possibility of a new sport facility we also had to make it commercially viable, as weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen how the world cup soccer stadiums in South Africa are just not making enough revenue to sustain themselves. So it grew from the need for a bigger inline hockey field to the idea of incorporating other sport. The dome had to be big enough to host a variety of Olympic sports; the connected commercial building has a symbiotic relationship with the dome, making the SISC a hub, a one stop center if you like, all under one roof. And that is important; everything is indoors, no weather conditions need to be taken into account.

How does the commercial building fit into the theme of sport? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen sport tourism taking off all over the world. The business district offers tour companies, travel agencies and accommodation. For example, after a sporting event teams or individuals can stay on for an outing to the desert, perhaps for team building. It offers various functions. It is convenient for a mother to drop her child at gymnastics and do her shopping while she waits for the child to finish. For athletes there are health shops, sport nutrition shops and upon completion of the centre in the latter half of 2015 also physiotherapists, sport shops, sport rehabilitation, gym, and a wellness center. The dome is multi-functional and does not only cater for sport. It is available for events like concerts, festivals, seminars, anything really. The commercial side links perfectly with it, and will upon completion during 2015 offer various types of business orientated facilities like conference rooms and internet access, and media needs will also be met with state of the art technology. 58

And, of course, accommodation, which will be very convenient for either sport, leisure or business folk using the dome. At the 2014 Namibian Annual Music Awards, we had an influx of 4 000 people over two days; that type of injection into the local economy is a drop in the ocean when you start thinking about big sporting events. What were your thoughts behind the tent structure for the dome? We wanted to accommodate Olympic sports like karate, boxing, tennis, soccer, indoor equestrian events, etc, and found the solution at a Norwegian manufacturing company called Norwegian Weather Protection, which we saw at a building show in Germany. Their domes allow you a wide span without compromising the space with inside structures like pillars to support the roof. They offer custom-made sizes with widths of up to 85 metres, and we needed 65 metres. The height is not a problem; you can go as high as you want to accommodate sport like rhythmic gymnastics or trapeze artists. This type of structure was a solution to all our needs, without any compromises on quality and

Advertorial - SISC

safety. Our dome was custom made – 95m x 65m with a clear opening of 90m x 60m.

You can create as much or as little wind as you need by importing or extracting air through opening portals.

And the dome itself, please tell us more about the manufacturing process?

Why did you choose Swakopmund?

Made at Ferrari in France, the same material was used for the Olympic structures in London recently. This high quality material has a lifespan of 20 years, although we’ve seen similar structures lasting 30 years if looked after. The canvas is easily replaced, without moving any of the structure. In fact the steel structure, which was galvanised inside and out in Poland, is of such high quality that the frame will still be standing here in 100 years!

Swakopmund has a thriving tourism industry and is the perfect place for a facility like this to incorporate the industry. The SISC provides activities such as a sporting/tourism package, entertainment/ tourism package and business/tourism package, to mention just a few. When you host or attend an event, you think, what can I combine with it? It’s like a huge puzzle being put together, and functions as one unit.

The Norwegian manufacturer, NWP, has an excellent track record for building these structures all over the world, and in places with extreme weather conditions like Dubai. They have a proven track record and we decided to go for the best.

You talk about youth development – what does this actually mean?

We’ve managed to make the SISC as green as possible, with solar panels and LED lighting. The dome lets in enough light so that you do not have to switch on electricity during the day, and we invested in the latest technology for energy saving. The building “breathes” on its own through a smart system that ventilates it naturally.

Youth development is more than good education. For the child to develop in mind, body and soul they need facilities and a safe environment to develop as healthy human beings, whether in sport, educational shows or entertainment. We offer that space, where parents can get their kids off the streets and into healthy activities and invest in building a healthy society. This past December we hosted the Zip Zap Circus from Cape Town, entertaining 7 500 (mostly kids) over four 59

days. It was such a huge success they’ve booked the venue again and later in the year, Shotokan Karate World Championship is scheduled for the dome. Apart from the youth development in such an event, the influx of people will have an economic benefit for Namibia as a whole. What do you offer investors apart from the facility? Good governance, good administration, an open book policy with accountability to investors. We have structures in place to make sure money gets to the athletes. We are businessmen after all, and it’s in our interests that the SISC is accountable to its investors. Our goal is for this whole area, including the swimming pool next door and the sport fields, to be a hub for sport and youth development. We are not in competition, but feed off each other. It’s important to our own growth that the areas around us grow with us. The public might see the swimming pool at the moment as a separate entity to the SISC, but it’s because they don’t see the bigger picture yet. We are working towards the symbolic umbrella, where the whole area functions as a unit; everything around us is part of the bigger picture.

How would you describe the building from an architectural point of view? The look of the structure was determined by the shape of the dome, and on the commercial side we wanted a functional building with many levels. The brief to the architect was to make this functional building as presentable as possible. He was thrown in at the deep end … we gave him an engineer’s building, which he had to make into something appealing. The building took on a character of its own as we chopped and changed during the process; it created its own identity. For instance we had two more floors at the top, which we took out. The darker colour choices for the deeper sections of the façade help towards making the building seem three- dimensional, as it creates the illusion of shadows. As architect on this project, Michiel Coetzee, what would you say was the most difficult part of designing the building and what was your solution? The most difficult part of designing such a huge functional structure was to make the building seem less overpowering, less solid. For this I treated the design in a pattern language by breaking down volumes and scale with textures and repetitive elements which stand away from the main structure. The dominant towers bind the two half circles of the hall and mark the main entrance. This then provides a scale and reference to the sport hall. For the dome, it was a matter of “form follows function”, as the enclosure of such a huge volume of space, was determined by the manufacturer in Norway.

From the beginning our mission has been to get people together so that we can grow as a community through sport and youth development. The reward for us is to hear the children laugh and play and enjoy themselves in the centre, which is the heart-warming sound of the future of our beloved country. www.swakopindoorsport.com adminsisc@iway.na

In Windhoek crazyballoondecor@gmail.com

Welwitschia Street, Swakopmund, Namibia Tel: +264 64 400 301

On the Coast info@sanmilari.com

You can find us in the Swakopmund Indoor Sport Centre - Welwitschia Street - Swakopmund

Any last thoughts from the developers? We’ve been humbled by overwhelmingly positive response from the local and international public alike. We see an average of 700 people walking through the doors every day and we envisage 2 500 to 3 000 people per day towards the end of the year. We invite sponsors, national and international private or business sector … Here are the structure, coaches, equipment and eager kids … invest in our children. The economic benefit is untapped. Locals are embracing the building as their own.

different cheeses of the world * fresh farm produce * freshly baked artisan breads daily * home made cakes & cookies * italian kimbo coffee * specilised meats You can find us in the Swakopmund Indoor Sport Centre - Welwitschia Street - Swakopmund

Just imagine this: quirky green artificial grass on the floor as you enter. Minimalist warm-toned executive décor, inviting you into a relaxed, homely atmosphere. A dash of madness in the mix – the focal point an art decor chair re-upholstered in bright Indian sari textiles, lit by an ultramodern stainless steel lamp. It’s not the world Alice discovered down a rabbit hole, but the new premises of West Coast FM 107.7 in the Swakopmund Indoor Sport Centre. Humanitarian and spiritual healer Clinton Lang is part owner of the station and

Clinton Lang is part owner of West Coast FM 107.7 and believes the station has a social responsibility.

emphasises, “Although we are serious about running the station as a successful

shares in the company, it was not a difficult

how much goodwill is out there, and

business, there is no reason why you

decision to make. Due in no small part to

the radio is a perfect medium to

cannot enjoy your work and have fun at

Clinton’s life motto “How can I help you to

connect the dots.”

the same time!

help me help the community”, the station

“Adults should never stop playing; humour

has created its own poverty relief and skills

West Coast FM 107.7 extends through

development programmes.

the whole central coastal region, from Swakopmund to Walvis Bay, Arandis and

is what makes us happy, after all.” “I think of the station as a portal, a

Henties Bay, with plans to expand to the

Clinton dabbled in radio broadcasting four

central point from where we can address

entire Erongo Region in the future.

years ago, co-hosting a programme once a

important social issues. With their snazzy new premises, the

week at West Coast FM107.7. “We connect people, even act as a

station now boasts a production studio for

He realised the power of radio can involve

facilitator sometimes, and give a voice to

the use of recording artists and creators of

a community in goodwill and good deeds,

people who would otherwise never have

radio advertisements.

so when owner Scharl Möller offered him

a chance to tell their stories. It’s amazing West Coast FM 107.7 has come full circle since its humble beginnings eight years ago, when Scharl Möller, as part of his retirement plan, used his garage to launch a small coastal radio service. The station has become the voice of the coastal area – the “go to station” for information on things happening in the area, interesting talks, debates, and their preferred format of adult contemporary music, always eclectic.

Introducing the strong team of individuals stearing West Coast FM 107.7. The station’s stand on breaking stereotypes, ant-discrimination, supporting and creating social upliftment project as well as promoting family values, mixed with a good dose of local and international music has been a winning combination for the last eight years. 61

Tel

+264 64 464048

Email westcoastfm@iway.na Web

www.westcoastfmnamibia.com

Advertorial - Beach Hotel Swakopmund

Whether you are on a business trip, visiting our charming town Swakopmund, having a conference, a romantic weekend or a vacation, Beach Hotel Swakopmund is a perfect place to stay and to feel comfortable. The ideal location of Beach Hotel Swakopmund, just 50m from the Atlantic Ocean and within walking distance to the centre of Swakopmund, allows you to experience the flavour of our charming town, while providing you the opportunity to explore the surrounding areas. Our friendly staff will always be happy to provide additional information on local services, shopping, activities and nearby attractions at your request.

Beach Hotel Swakopmund cc

peter@beach-hotel-swakopmund.com

johan@beach-hotel-swakopmund.com www.beach-hotel-swakopmund.com 64

Advertorial - Beach Hotel Swakopmund

Swakopmund

SWAKOPMUND PLAZA HOTEL – Your

Swakopmund town centre. The developers

The success of accommodation

business and holiday destination

are determined not just to uplift the area,

development is never a given, and the

but also to preserve its heritage.

developers needed a business plan to

The new Swakopmund Plaza Hotel, is part

When the group bought four properties,

make the Plaza sustainable. Through

of a development in the conservation area

on one of which an old building still stood,

market research they realised that

of town, with it’s unique spirit that makes

they decided to pay homage to the old

upmarket accommodation for business

Swakopmund a holiday and business

colonial building by re constructing the

people and bigger apartments for short

favourite.

exact façade of the old building into the

term accommodation were the two areas

new façade.

not fully catered for along the coast; in fact

A group of developers, whose interests

When the new Swakopmund Plaza Hotel

these were only offered by Beach Hotel

extend beyond the boundaries of business

opens its doors, a small piece of history

Swakopmund.

opportunities, is passionate about

will be incorporated into

the renewal and improvement of the

a new era.

They approached the owners of Beach Hotel Swakopmund and asked them to

Part of the original brewery also remained

come on board – the synergy of these two

on one of the four properties, but that

groups now provides the only business-

was unfortunately pulled down before the

related tourism and short term rental

group could purchase the land.

apartments along the coast. The owners of Beach Hotel Swakopmund

Advertorial - The Plaza Hotel

bought the hotel component of the

land or renovate an old building, I love

the need for short term apartment

Development. From what they’ve

the way all the puzzle pieces have to fit

accommodation has grown tenfold.

experienced at Beach Hotel Swakopmund

together, where every component has a

Sporting events like the World Karate

they realised the demand for conference

role to play. When I eventually pull all the

Championships, scheduled for later this

and event facilities, when business

parts together and see the whole picture,

year, will have teams and their entourages

accommodation is required, and so

it is very rewarding.”

looking for two and three bedroom short

they negotiated with the developers to

The interior of the Swakopmund Plaza

term rental space with all the offerings of

rent some space on the ground floor

Hotel is modern classic and on a par with

a hotel and Swakopmund Plaza Hotel will

for this purpose. The conference space

European standards, based on the success

support this market.

will be multi-functional and offer social

of Beach Hotel Swakopmund, where co-

upliftment initiatives like cooking and

owners Peter and Julie Weichhart have

dance classes as well.

established a secure foothold in the

Johan Kok co-owner of Beach Hotel

European market, particularly in Germany.

Swakopmund, an entrepreneur who with

Beach Hotel Swakopmund’s winning

a partner bought his first apartment when

recipe will now extend to Swakopmund

he was 21, renovated it and sold it at a

Plaza Hotel as well.

profit, still enjoys the thrill of creating something out of nothing. “Whether you

New developments like the Swakopmund

build something on an empty piece of

Indoor Sport Centre have meant that 67

Swakopmund Plaza Hotel CC E-mail: johan@plaza.na Web: www.plaza.na OPERATED BY

a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye

view

bush bird

flying safari Our aircraft of choice is the Cessna 210, which has the best safety record in its class. The high wing configuration allows passengers in every seat unobstructed views of the land below. We require not only flying experience, but also life experience from our German, English and French-speaking commercial pilots. We expect them be responsible, reliable, punctual, helpful and sociable.

The strength of our company lies in showing clientele from all over Europe a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of this beautiful country.

Through what we have learned over the years regarding the needs and expectations of our clients, we have created a product called Sossusfly, which has become our trademark. Our carefully planned 2.2 hour scenic flight will take you over some of the most spectacular scenery in the world and to some of the remotest wilderness areas â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Kuiseb Canyon, the Namib desert via Sossusvlei, the Skeleton Cost, Conception Bay and the visible shipwreck, seal colonies, Sandwich Harbour, Saltpans, Walvis Bay and return to Swakopmund. The flight covers a distance of about 600+ kilometres, of which less than 20% are accessible by road. As we fly along 70

Advertorial - Bush Bird

the sculpted coastline, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll encounter spectacular views over the seven different kinds of dunes and the fierce southern Skeleton Coast. Our experienced commercial pilots will give you an insight into the history of the relics along the coast while you enjoy an unparalleled photographic vantage point from your seat. Aviation is all about safety, and we are proud to say we are on par with the big commercial airlines as we adhere to the same rules and regulations that govern them. Most of our clients are from Europe; as we hail from Switzerland, we are fully aware of the high standard they expect, especially with regard to their safety. We import all our aviation equipment from the USA and have a 100% accident-free record. 71

Bush Bird is a fully licensed Charter Company approved and licensed by the Namibian Civil Aviation Authority.

Reservations Cell: +264 81 250 7171 www.sossusfly.com reservations@sossusfly.com

What makes a winning dining destination? A masterful chef working his magic in the kitchen? A location that leaves you scrambling for superlatives? Maybe an impressive wine collection is what speaks to you? How about a dash of the unexpected? They’re all enticing qualities, worth seeking out in their own right. Is it then too much to hope that one venue could boast all of these, and more? Fortunately – thankfully! - the answer is no, because perched on the edge of the wild Atlantic Ocean, overlooking Swakopmund’s famous jetty, is The Tug Restaurant. Established in 1993 and ingeniously converted out of the old steam harbour tug “Danie Hugo”, the restaurant has deservedly become a “must visit” dining destination for local patrons and overseas visitors alike. With spectacular views both from inside the restaurant as well as the recently enlarged deck terrace outside, it’s just the place for a celebratory meal or well-earned sundowner.

In fact, with a cocktail menu, a selection of 140 South African wines and a choice of French champagnes, sundowners are a serious business at The Tug. In charge of the kitchen is Head Chef Uwe Hanssen, who combines sourcing the best fresh produce possible with innovative recipes to create an evolving menu to satisfy every palate. For those wanting to enjoy what Namibia’s ocean bounty has to offer, there’s Kabeljou, Kingklip, John Dory, Angelfish, Sole, oysters and Lobsters. A popular accompaniment is fresh green asparagus, grown locally in the Swakop valley, and harvested almost all your round. International dishes also featuring on the menu include stuffed Patagonian squid, prawns, Norwegian salmon and Sashimi tuna. Meat lovers aren’t neglected in the least: well-aged beef, tender lamb and melt-in-the-mouth venison dishes, such as Oryx carpaccio and steaks feature on the menu. A cracker surf-and-turf will satisfy those in the market for a taste of both fish and meat. Vegetarians need not fear, they 73

haven’t been forgotten either. In fact, quite the opposite: The Tug’s signature Spanakopita heads up a comprehensive list of vegetarian dishes on offer. It’s so good, that even determined meat eaters have been known to be swayed! Owners George Hopking and Brett Southworth know that a stellar dining experience includes not only great food and wine, but also competent, friendly service. Their well-trained, motivated staff do justice to Chef Hanssen’s food, and help make every visit to the Tug a pleasant and relaxing experience. With The Tug team’s efforts being rewarded with a full reservations book, it’s best to make bookings in good time. Tel +264 64 402 356 Email reservations@the-tug.com Web www.the-tug.com Reservations can be made directly from our website booking page.

Oyster farming in Namibia starts with the cultivation of larvae the size of a speck of dust. Who could imagine that these tiny specks grow into some of the world’s best oysters?

The Namibian coast is not a natural

habitat for oysters, and in the early days of commercial farming, baby oysters had to be imported. Now it’s much easier, as these diminutive oysters are hand reared by Manuel Romero just north of Mile 4 in Swakopmund. Like any loving father, Manuel watches over his millions of new-borns, making sure all the intricate steps are carefully followed to allow the larvae or “spat” to grow into baby oysters. Oysters are “protandrous alternating hermaphrodites”, which means an oyster is both male and female, but not at the same time. The first year they spawn as males and release sperm into the water. As they grow older they become female and release eggs. A single female oyster can produce up to 100 million eggs annually. Manuel says in order to cultivate baby oysters commercially the sex of an adult

oyster is established by drilling a small hole in its shell. Males and females are then separated into tanks and paired off for spawning later. After spawning, the eggs develop into minute larvae and two weeks later metamorphose into baby oysters. As Manuel scoops water from a big tank where the two-week-old babies are kept, he says, “They are so tiny that when you filter the water you think it is ‘dust’ left behind in the plastic cup, but they are in fact the little oysters.” When studied under a microscope these minute particles reveal themselves to be myriad little balls, swimming around like crazy. From this “dust-like” state they are put into long, thin, upside down bottles. The babies feed by pumping water through a filter in their gill-chamber, thereby collecting the algae in the water as food. Six weeks later they are ready to be sold to oyster farmers in Namibia and South Africa. Interestingly they are sold per oyster, which means each minute oyster must be painstakingly counted, one by one. The baby oysters can survive for close to a week out of water if the shipment is packed carefully in foam lite and with iced water bottles. A crucial addition to the commercial cultivation of baby oysters is the algae on which the larvae feed. Manuel says different species of algae are imported from England and the United States. These arrive in test tubes containing what looks like clear water, as the algae are only visible under a microscope. With a lot of patience and dedication Manuel cultivates the algae with nutrients, the correct water temperature, enough light (needed for photosynthesis) and rotation of fresh water. All these factors are essential for the food to be just right for his babies, and as they grow so does the size of the containers they call home. From long thin bottles and test tubes, they graduate to five-litre containers and finally 300-litre containers. When they are finally ready to be shipped to all parts of the world, the circle of life is complete and the whole process starts again. @ LIN 75

LUXURY SEAFRONT LIVING FOR THE DISCERNING INVESTOR Â A new landmark arising on the coastline of Namibia, offering luxury seafront apartments, high-end restaurants and a select variety of food and fashion retailers. Enjoy seafront living from classy apartments nestled next to meandering walkways, pristine beaches and lifestyle retailing in the quaint town of Swakopmund. Known as a year round destination with its desert adventures, pristine beaches and an exclusive coastline this picturesque town has a growing reputation as both a holiday destination and permanent residence while ever retaining its character and charm as the gem of Namibia.Â This new development is designed in harmony with the environment and offers 38 luxury apartments linked to classy shopping with beachfront views, meandering walkways, and child-friendly play areas. Apartments are finished elegantly with an open plan design, a light and spacious feel with floor to ceiling windows and spectacular ocean views. The high specification and superior fittings provide sophistication while luxurious finishes, modern elements and attractive designs offer the best in interior comfort. Make a lifetime investment in elegance and comfort on the desired Namibian coastline.

For more information contact: Email info@safari-retail.com Tel 77

+27 12Â 365 1889

I fell in love with painting when I was a child growing up in Windhoek. I love acryl, as I guess I don’t have the patients for oils! I paint what I see … interesting things around me ... usually I see the difference in light and shadow, the shape it creates or contrasting colours and the language it speaks. I find messages in the simplest things, as if it is saying something to me. So in the end I would say I am inspired by a feeling, a focus. Unexpected colours also inspire me, like the colour and feel of burned out wood, colours that change something ordinary into what for me is a piece of art. I think an artist should not be influenced by others’ opinions, which is your worst drawback for developing your own unique style or language. It is art after all and there is a fine line (if at all) to what is perceived to be right and wrong. How can you teach someone to view life in the “correct way”? Each person has a perception of what they see ... and they should explore that.

“Most people do not listen with the intent to understand; they listen with the intent to reply.” -Stephen R. Covey.

lose your eyes, take a deep breath and tell me: what do you hear right now? New worlds open when I prompt your brain to take control of the sensory experience – and make you listen, rather than just hear. The difference between the sense of hearing and the skill of listening is attention. Research on listening indicates that we spend about 80% of our waking hours communicating: writing 9%, reading 16%, speaking 30%; and 45 to 50% of our day is engaged in listening to people, music, TV, radio, etc. There is no place in the universe that is totally silent; we just don’t always hear. The art of listening is an acquired skill; you have to focus very hard because there are ancient pathways in your brain that are waiting to interrupt your focus, to warn you of any potential dangers. So it is hard to listen when potential distractions are leaping into your ears every fifty-thousandth of a second.

Effective listening also relies on nonverbal communication and aphorisms. So listening is both an art and a skill that requires work and self-discipline. We tend to think of the world as we see it, interacting with things and people based on how it or they look. Conscious thought takes place at about the same rate as visual recognition, requiring a fraction of a second per event. But few know that hearing is a much faster sense, at least 10 times faster. Being attuned to the nonvisual world fine-tunes our intellectual sharpness. It is through “listening” that we align our brain to the patterns of our environment, much faster than with any other sense. Listening is a thus a choice, although we are often completely unaware that we are making that choice. It is because hearing has evolved over millennia as a protective alarm system, and even operates out of line of sight and while you are asleep. It has a unique automatic “volume control” to 80

keep most sounds off your cognitive radar unless they might be of use as a warning signal. We dare not lose the wonderful protective mechanism in a world of digital distraction and information overload. When it comes to living with depth and compassion, we all eventually learn that the art of communication springs as much from knowing when to listen as it does from knowing what to say. This way we not only learn to enjoy the sound and words, but also discover hidden emotions carried in the harmonics around us. The nostalgic poet Leonard Cohen advises that we must take it slow; it gives you more of a chance to get things close to right. Listening is far more than hearing words; it is an art. As an art, it becomes a way of being. Bibliography: Seth S. Horowitz “The Universal Sense: How Hearing Shapes the Mind.”