Beauty Basics A Comprehensive Guide for Everyone
Illustrated, photographed and designed by Kari Rozwadowski Type Systems 601 Professor Cobbenhagen Academy of Art University
Dedication This book is dedicated to my family and friends that have helped push me and believed in my dream to go back to school for graphic design.
Contents
CHAPTER 1
08 10
The History of Makeup Time Line
CHAPTER 2
14 20 22
Skin Care Brushes Makeup Care
CHAPTER 3
26 27
Foundation Contouring
CHAPTER 4
30
Lips
Chapter
1
History of Makeup
“Dress like you are going to meet your worst enemy today” – Coco Chanel
The History of Makeup We have come a long way from the days of using toxic and deadly mixtures to enhance our looks. Here is how makeup has evolved and changed throughout the centuries.
COSMETICS IN THE ANCIENT WORLD In 10,000 BCE, men and women in Egypt use scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and mask body odor. Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Oils and creams are used for protection against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds. Myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil provide the basic ingredients of most perfumes that Egyptians use in religious ritual. Around 4,000 BCE, Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition. They employ a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper, different-colored coppers ores, lead, ash, and ochre -together called kohl -to adorn the eyes in an almond shape. Women carry cosmetics to parties in makeup boxes and keep them under their chairs. In 3000 BCE Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg. The colors used represent social class: Chou dynasty royals wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals wearing black or red. Lower classes are forbidden to wear bright colors on their nails. Grecian women paint their faces with white lead and apply crushed mulberries as rouge. The application of fake eyebrows, often made of oxen hair, is also fashionable. By 1500 BCE Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces white. Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth painted gold or black and henna dyes applied to stain hair and faces. In 1000 BCE Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron. 08
EARLY COSMETICS In Rome around 100 AD, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and blood on their fingernails for polish. In addition, mud baths come into vogue, and some Roman men dye their hair blond. By 300-400 AD Henna is used in India as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which complex designs are painted on to the hands and feet, especially before a Hindu wedding. Henna is also used in some North African cultures.
COSMETICS IN THE MIDDLE AGES 1200 AD: As a result of the Crusades, perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East. 1300 AD. In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear egg whites over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Yet, some thought cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore posed a health threat.
RENAISSANCE COSMETICS 1400 - 1500 AD: In Europe, only the aristocracy use cosmetics, with Italy and France emerging as the main centers of cosmetics manufacturing. Arsenic is sometimes used in face powder instead of lead. The modern notion of complex scent-making evolves in France. Early fragrances are amalgams of naturally occurring ingredients. Later, chemical processes for combining and testing scents supersede their arduous and labor-intensive predecessors. 1500-1600 AD: European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products, including white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known user of white lead, with which she created a look known as “the Mask of Youth.� Blonde hair rises in popularity as it is considered angelic. Mixtures of black sulfur, alum, and honey were painted onto the hair and left to work in the sun. 09
Time Line 500,000 BCE
Cave dwellers in Africa and South America cover their bodies with mud applied in decorative patterns. The mud also functions as an insect repellent.
3000 BCE
Egyptians use more than thirty different types of cosmetic balms and ointments made from ingredients such as beeswax, vegetable oil, and animal fat. Moisturizers are considered so essential, they are rou-
2000 BCE
An Egyptian papyrus includes formulas for removing wrinkles, pimples, age spots, and other blemishes. One mixture includes bullock’s bile. Egyptians who want to get rid of wrinkles are told to apply a mixture of incense, olive oil, crushed cyperus, and wax to the face and leave it on for six days.
2500 BCE
Summerians invent the first tweezers to get rid of unwanted hair and use a flat bone to push back cuticles.
1500 BCE
Egyptian women use body oils scented with frankincense and myrrh to moisturize and protect their skin from the dry, dusty climate.
1200 BCE
Egyptians of this era are wearing a full face of cosmetics. They create eye shadows out of malachite, a copper ore that has a greenish tone, to line their bottom lids are darkened with powder made from lead ore.
600 BCE Makeup and lavish clothing is worn by all Babylonians of rank. An ambitious warrior named Parsondes was said to have complained to King Nebuchadnezzar about the governor, Nanarus focus on beauty rather than on the government.
400 BCE Women from various cultures use powders made from crushed minerals, such as ocher, hematite, and white lead, to color their skin. 10
1370 Charles V of France receives a gift of Hungary water, a body rub made of an alcohol base with rosemary, cedar, and turpentine. Soap is a luxury, but the use of these waters sweetens the smell of the body.
1400 Cosmetics, including a white paste made of flour to cover the face, become increasingly popular among the French aristocracy.
1500 Renaissance women use a mixture of honey and egg whites to condition their skin. White lead is applied to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Mercuric sulphide is used for rouge. To keep complexions clear, some wash their faces in urine or a mixture of rose water and win. To reduce the ruddiness. raw veal soaked in
1600’s A doll-like look with pure white face and scarlet cheeks is all the rage. A foundation of white cerruse, which contains lead, is mixed on a palette with water or egg white and applied to the skin. Rouge is commonly applied by running a piece of Spanish felt of wool that has been dyed scarlet onto dampened cheeks
1700’s Silk taffeta or thin leather patches in shapes like flowers, stars and moons become a popular product to temporarily conceal small pox scars on the face. More than just cover ups, however, the patches signal a womens availability if placed near the lips. Engaged women wear them on the left cheek and switch to the right after marriage. Small scenes are sometimes pasted over an eyebrow.
1830 Women put a few drops of belladonna into their eyes to dilate the pupils, creating a dreamy look. Belladonna is plant extract used since ancient times as a poison.
1886 Avon, the door-to-door cosmetics line, is founded by David Hall McConnel, a former door-to-door salesman. 11
Skin Care & Tools
“Beauty starts with smooth, healthy, glowing skin.” – Bobbie Brown
Chapter
2
Basic Skin Care STEP 1 CLEANSING The purpose of cleansing is to remove bacteria, makeup, and the dirt, sweat, and oil build up on the skin each day. At least once a day, the skin needs to be cleaned with a formula that does not strip the skin of all its natural oils. Soap will deeply clean the skin and leave it feeling thoroughly cleansed and refreshed. Look for glycerin or cold cream soaps formulated specifically for the face. Glycerin creates a moisture cushion on the skin and a soft feel. Soap is best for oily skin types. Do not use body of bath soaps, especially antibacterial soap. Gel Cleanser typically foam or lather during use. These cleaners are formulated to dissolve oil buildup and fight blemish-causing bacteria without stripping the skin. They are best for oily to combination skin types that are prone to breakouts. Cream Cleanser are lightweight, water-based formulas that clean without leaving residue. These products contain oils and emollients along with cleansing ingredients and are recommended for normal to dry skin types. TIP Use a face mask every week to help restore and rejuvenate skin. Oily and blemish prone skin will benefit from the application of a clay mask, which helps draw out impurities, reduce blackheads and dry up excess oil. Dry skin, or any skin type can benefit from a creamy hydrating mask.
Balm Cleansers condition and moisturize the skin while cleansing. They leave a moisturizing cushion on the skin and are suitable for all skin types except oily. Exfoliating Cleansers sometimes contain alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic or salicylic acid, and can be used several times a week to encourage cell turnover and dead skin removal. These products are gentle enough for all skin types. Some exfoliating cleansers contain beads or grains that loosen dead surface skin cells. 14
DIY FACE MASKS After cleansing its a good idea to apply a face mask once a week to help replenish skin cells, provide moisture, and repair damaged skin cells. OATMEAL MASK Gather 1/3 cup of instant oatmeal, 1/2 cup of hot water, 1 TBSP of honey and 1 TBSP of unsweetened yogurt. Combine the hot water and oatmeal until soft, then add the honey and yogurt. Apply to face and let sit for 10 mins, rinse off with warm water.
CUCUMBER MASK Gather 1/2 a cucumber peeled and chopped, 1 TBSP of Greek Yogurt. Use a food processor to blend the cucumber into a pulp and then add the yogurt. Apply to face and let sit for 10-15 mins, rinse off with warm water.
COCOA AND COFFEE Gather 2 TBSP of ground coffee, 2 TBSP of cocoa powder, 1 TBSP of honey, 3 TBSP of yogurt. Blend together. Apply to face and let sit for 10 mins, rinse off with water.
EGG WHITE MASK Gather 2 egg whites and 2 TBSP of plain yogurt. Mix in a bowl and apply to face. Let mask sit for 10 mins, wash off. 15
Basic Skin Care
STEP 2 MOISTURIZING
Moisturizing is an essential step in good skin care if not the most important. Skin’s tone and flexibility depends on the presence of water in the underlying tissues- water drawn from humidity in the air and moisture added to the skins surface. A good moisturizer can stop the dry skin cycle from spiraling into cracked, thick, flaky skin. A Oil is the skins natural protectant, preventing moisture from leaving the skin. Oil in the skin functions as a defensive barrier. Dry Skin a heavier, oil based moisturizer that will absorb completely into the skin, leaving it feeling soft and supple. Oils are more effective than creams at preventing water evaporation. Look for the ingredients urea or proplyene glycol, chemicals that keep skin moist. Normal Skin has a healthy moisture balance. Water based moisturizers containing light weight oils such as acetylene alcohol, or silicone-derived ingredients, will help maintain healthy normal skin. Oily and Combination Skin types benefit most from an oil free, water based moisturizer. Oil-free products are made from synthetic chemicals and contain little to no oils or animal fats. If you have oily skin, use all moisturizers sparingly. Look for products labeled “noncomedogenic� which means they are formulated to prevent clogged pores. Test moisturizers to find one that leaves a matte finish to the skin. This will minimize the shine and the appearance of large pores. Sensitive Skin needs a moisturizer that does not contain fragrances or dyes and is designed for this skin type. Extra Dry and Mature Skin requires more moisture. Nourishing oils, dense creams and balms are specifically for both these skin types. 16
TIP Use a fast-absorbing eye cream under concealer to help skin look smooth. The skin around the eyes is more delicate than the rest of the face. For puffiness and wrinkles around the eye, try using a richer formula containing shea butter or beeswax at night.
Basic Skin Care
STEP 3 SUNSCREEN The final step in a good skin care program is using sunscreen, but it’s the most forgotten. It’s easy to tell if your skin is dirty or dry, requiring a good washing or some added moisture. We can see or feel that our skin needs some extra care. Unfortunately, most of the damage to the skin from UV radiation is beneath the surface and happens so slowly that we don’t realize how much damage is being done. Most people know that exposure to UV radiation can cause sun damage to the skin, including sunburn, photo-aging, and increased risk of skin cancer. But did you know this damage also occurs when you walk from your house to your car or sit next to a window during the day? Even those little bits of exposure add up over the years. UVA Rays have the longest wavelength and remain high in intensity all day. They penetrate through the epidermis and deep into the dermis, damaging newer cells. UVA rays are very dangerous and can cause cancers and sensitivity reactions. UVB Rays have a midrange wavelength, and like UVA rays penetrate the epidermis and continue into the dermis. These rays break down the organization of skin cells, causing wrinkles, and broken skin vessels. They are highest in intensity from 10am to 2pm and near the equator. Glass protects skins from UVB rays. UVC Rays have the shortest wavelength and are usually absorbed by the ozone layer. They are absorbed by the epidermis and can be very dangerous in large amounts. As the ozone layer things, attention will need to be paid to UVC rays. 1. Apply sunscreen at least once a day. 2. Clean the skin before application. 3. Apply to cool dry skin twenty to thirty minutes before exposure. 17
TIP Use the equivalent of a shot glass of sunscreen that’s two tablespoons- to cover skin from head to toe. If you have oily skin, try using an oil-control lotion on the forehead and nose to tone down shine. Oil-free formulas hydrate while helping to control overactive oil glands. Foundation applied over the lotion will old better too.
Brushes & Maintenance
“The right tools are just as important as the makeup – Bobbie Brown
Brushes 1. FLAT FOUNDATION BRUSH Your most important brush of all. Use this brush to apply liquid foundation to your face. Hold it like a pencil for the sturdiest grip. For a natural look, apply foundation at the center of your face and extend toward your hairline. Use long, sweeping strokes to evenly distribute foundation. Make sure to apply foundation to your neck.
2. ANGLED BRUSH This brush can be used for a variety of things. It can be used to apply blush or can be used as contour brush when using a powder contour kit.
3. POWDER BRUSH Use this brush to apply translucent powder to your face after applying liquid foundation. Simply pick up your powder with the brush, tap off extra and dab the brush on your face to prevent a cakey look. 20
4. FOUNDATION BRUSH Use this brush to apply liquid foundation to your face, this brush more hygienic because it doesn’t pick up and hold foundation deep inside. Hold it like a pencil for the sturdiest grip. Use long, sweeping strokes to evenly distribute foundation. Make sure to apply foundation to your neck.
5. EYELASH BRUSH The soft bristle part (Top) can be used to remove excess powder from eyebrows and to help shape them. The bottom portion of the brush helps remove clumps from eyelashes. The other half of the brush can be used to apply eyebrow powder or eyeliner.
6. CONCEALER BRUSH This brush should have soft bristles since it will be used for under the eyes. The end of the bristles should be rounded to help get into hard to reach areas.
7. BEAUTY BLENDER This can be used to apply liquid foundation or also for high-lightening when contouring. For hygienic purposes its better to use a brush when applying liquid foundation instead of using a beauty blender. 21
Makeup Care
WHEN TO GET RID OF MAKEUP
Examine the contents of your makeup bag and drawer. Take out anything that’s in a broken container or missing a cap. You can pour liquid foundation into a fresh bottle, scoop out creams and lipsticks and transfer them to small containers or palettes, and place cap less pencils in zip-top plastic bags. Broken powder blushes and pressed compacts are irreparable and should be tossed. Weekly maintenance is far easier than semiannual overhauls. 2 years 2 years 2 years 6 month 12 to 18 months 12 to 18 months 2 years 2 years 2 years 2 years 6 months 2 years 2 years
Liquid and Cream Foundation Concealer Powder Mascara Lipstick Lip and Eye Pencils Eye Shadow Powder Blush Cream Blush Moisturizer Eye Cream Sunscreen Face Cream
12 TIP If you don’t know when the makeup expires, look for this symbol on the back of the container. The expiration date starts as soon as the product is opened not when its bought.
22
Cleaning Brushes & Tools CLEANING BRUSHES
You should deep clean your brushes at least twice a month and routinely clean them with a brush spray every couple of uses. DEEP CLEANING BRUSHES
ROUTINE CLEANING
STEP 1
STEP 1
Run brushes under lukewarm water angling the brush downward to avoid the metal part of the brush. Run the brushes under the water until it runs clear.
Spray bristles with a daily cleaning spray and brush them back and forth on a clean towel to remove any makeup. You can purchase a daily cleaning spray at Sephora, Ulta or even Target.
STEP 2 Fill a small bowl with lukewarm water and place 1 teaspoon of baby shampoo into the bowl and swirl to combine. You can use any type of shampoo or special brush cleaning solution if you have it. Avoid the metal part of the brushes. STEP 3 After cleaning the brushes gently rub the bristles back and forth on the towel to help dry them. STEP 4
TIP Always leave brushes to dry hanging off the edge of a towel as brushes can grow mildew is not properly dried.
Use your fingers to straighten the bristles back into their original shape & let them air dry. 23
Chapter
3
Foundation & Contouring “Foundation is like the Spanx for the face”
– Lynnette Cole
Foundation MATCHING SHADES OF MAKEUP
A good rule to pick the right shade of foundation is to match it to your jawline. Place a couple options on your jawline and leave it for a few minutes. After a minute of two look at your face again and pick the shade you don’t notice is visible anymore. You can also go to stores like Sephora where they use a machine to color match you with foundation. Your skin tone will most likely change from summer to winter, meaning you might have a darker shade for summer and a lighter one for winter. You can mix those two shades together for in between the two seasons.
SELECT YOUR COVERAGE Do you want full, medium, partial or sheer coverage? How much of your natural skin do you want to show through your foundation? You’ll find foundation colors in all different types of coverage, so decide what finish you like best.
1. This shade is to dark for her skin color. 2. This shade matches her skin color perfectly, aim for this when picking out a foundation. 3. This shade is to light for her skin color.
3 2 1
26
Contouring
Contouring is a technique that gives shape to an area of the face and enhances the facial structure through makeup. It’s not supposed to be noticeable, just a slight definition.
1
TOOLS NEEDED Beauty Blender, Powder Brush, Angled Brush, Contouring Kit, and Blush
2
STEP 1 FOUNDATION First make sure you have a good base with foundation and finish it off by adding translucent powder before you contour your face.
STEP 2 HIGHLIGHT With your beauty blender pick up a numerous amount of highlighter and place on areas as shown below. Let the highlighter sit for about 5-10 minutes to soak into your skin. Then take your powder brush and blend the highlighter in.
3
STEP 3 BRONZER Next take your angled brush and pick up a medium to dark bronzer color. Place it the areas as seen in the picture below. When applying the bronzer use a 3 shape motion to swipe it on the right side of your face and an E shape motion for your left side of your face. STEP 4 BLUSH Wipe off excess makeup from your powder brush and pick up some blush. Apply it to the apples of your cheeks as seen in the image. 27
4
Lips
“If you’re sad, add more lipstick, and attack” – Coco Chanel
Chapter
4
Lips
Applying lip color is one of the simplest of all makeup steps and is a great way to instantly change a look. The right shade works with the skin tone and complements the natural color of the lips. FINDING THE PERFECT SHADE To find the best shade for your skin tone start by removing all makeup, the one that will look the best on you is the one that looks best on a natural face. You know you have found the right shade when it enhances the skin tone, makes the eyes look brighter, and gives the face a lift.
DIFFERENT FORMULAS Matte Products are dense and last longer. They contain less moisture than other products, so they adhere to the lips and don’t fade as quickly. Semi-matte Products are less dry than matte products and don’t last as long. They work best on textured or dry lips and give off a soft sheen. Stains provide long-lasting, highly pigmented color. Gloss Sticks are hybrids, between sheer lipstick and gloss. They add a bit more pigment than lip gloss but both are see through and moist. Lip Glosses Provide hydration, sun protection, and sheen. This formula is great for making the lips look fuller and for layering on top of other lip colors. Lip Liners define the lips and keep lipstick on longer when used on the entire lip area.
30
TIP When you find the right shade, you can move onto choosing a more daring or dramatic color.
Works Cited Page 1.
Catherin Winter. Web. 26 February 2015. http://inhabitat.com/
2.
Julyne Derrick Web. 2016. http://beauty.about.com/
3.
Brown, Bobbi. Makeup Manual. New York, NY. 2008
4.
A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Times. Web. http://www. cosmeticsinfo.org/
5.
Skin Care 101. Web. https://www.verywell.com/skin-care-09 Sept 2016.
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Applying makeup doesn’t have to be hard and once you know the basics to makeup you can achieve any look you want. With this book you can learn the history of where makeup came from and how it got started, basic skin care which is so important to having healthy looking skin, the necessary tools to create the look you want, and more beauty tips. Applying makeup can be fun and drastically change your appearance, learn how by reading each chapter.