Ethical Fashion

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Ethical Fashion

Lesley Hampton

Mic. Carter

Lesley Hampton, an Indigenous artist and fashion designer, shares why slow fashion is so important and what excites her about the future of the fashion industry.

Mic. Carter, a Toronto-based creative and creator of L’Uomo Strano, shares their perspective on non-binary fashion and why it's important for social justice to be a part of fashion industry conversations.

Why is it important for businesses both big and small to integrate slow fashion and sustainability frameworks into their practices?

What inspired you to get started in fashion?

We at LESLEY HAMPTON believe in slow fashion. The majority of our items are made to order. By purchasing made-to-order pieces, you're helping reduce wasteful overproduction while also supporting our Indigenous-owned, women-led, small business. It's important for both big and small brands to integrate slow fashion because as the world transitions to more mindful buying habits to protect the environment, it's imperative that brands develop mindful production to keep in step.

What still needs to change when it comes to proper representation and inclusion in the fashion industry?

Representation is extremely important.

Fashion is something that almost everyone interacts with on a daily basis, and it's often the first daily choice many of us make in the morning while getting dressed. I believe

what you choose to wear on your body can say so much about your values and perspective. A great beginning goal for brands and retail spaces would be to have “plus size” and “straight size” garments integrated on the same rack or same drop-down menu online, or to even offer a wider range of sizes in general. We need the industry to not only welcome but celebrate all bodies equally.

What excites you most about the future of the fashion industry?

I'm excited to see the future of the fashion industry transition to include all bodies. I believe we're transitioning to a movement of body neutrality, to knowing that like having a bad hair day, you can and are allowed to have a bad body image day. I think with the increased awareness of personal health, we'll focus more on caring for the one body we have, and on having fashion and clothing work for us. I think this point of view will influence our fashion choices to be less about trends and more about personal style.

Sage Paul

I was inspired to start L’Uomo Strano after struggling for years to find affirming non-binar y wardrobe staples. Simultaneously, I also desired to co-construct fashion spaces that would encourage dialogue surrounding issues of social justice.

This was done primarily through shows that centered the lives, resilience, and joy of folks whose identities were frequently marginalized within traditional fashion institutions.

When it comes to diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry, what's the biggest change you’d like to see?

and pathways to funding can ensure that the next generation of dynamic creators is able to thrive through every stage of its evolution.

Why is it important to have conversations about gender fluidity and gender-nonconformity in the industry?

Fashion belongs to all. It has the innate power to transform, to empower, and to actualize. For far too long, the industry has relied on and invested in the gender binary, thus reinforcing its societal pervasiveness.

Insisting on including gender-nonconformity in the conversation ensures that the notion of the gender binary is challenged at one of its roots, thereby creating space for a more inclusive sartorial future.

One aspect I’d like to see change is how diversity and inclusion initiatives are made sustainable within the industry, particularly with respect to funding. New labels — many of which are committed to diversity and inclusion work — often struggle navigating the first few years of building their venture,

Body Confidence Canada

Sage Paul, an urban Denesuliné tskwe based in Toronto, an award-winning artist and designer, and the Executive & Artistic Director at Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto shares her thoughts on why accountability and proper representation in the fashion industry are so important.

What actions need to be taken in order for proper inclusion and representation of Indigenous people in the Canadian fashion industry?

What role do fashion brands as well as government and policymakers play in transforming the practices of the fashion industry?

There are many things that need to happen in order for proper inclusion and representation of Indigenous people in the Canadian fashion industry. Most immediately, I would say that anything that is about us needs to be led by us at all levels, including design, marketing, education, manufacturing, and executive leadership. It's also important that companies understand what it means to create more inclusion in their workplaces. It isn't enough to do a marketing campaign about us — Indigenous people (and other diverse people for that matter) need to be invited into leadership roles in mainstream companies. Not only will that support better inclusion and representation of us, it will also allow for the industry to creatively flourish with innovation.

Everyone plays a part in transforming the practices of the fashion industry. There needs to be accountability at all levels that acknowledges this through action. While industry practices won't change overnight, I think a good place to start is by encouraging corporate values to evolve to benefit collective well-being and guide how decisions are made. I believe those values should focus on fostering local designers, working with local creators and manufacturers and paying them properly, and stewardship of the earth.

If those three pillars were enforced for decision-making and business practice in the fashion industry in Canada, I think things would be very different for the better.

Co-founders of Body Confidence Canada, Aisha Fairclough and Jill Andrew, share their insight on why fashion is deeply political and how all brands must ensure clothing is inclusive to the diverse bodies that they serve.

Why is it important for fashion brands to recognize inclusivity of all shapes and sizes?

All bodies, regardless of shape, size, weight, height, gender identity or expression, and ability, have a right to style! How we fashion our bodies serves as a second skin in society. Our sartorial choices help us move in the world with confidence as we navigate relationships along the way. Not only is it the socially responsible thing for fashion brands to do but it also makes economic sense. Everyone shops — everyone participates in the fashion economy. It's in brands' best interest to read the room and ensure their lines fit and flatter the diverse bodies they serve.

What change would you like to see in the fashion industry?

Representation! We can never get enough of that. We need to continually promote local designers, and locally-sourced materials, and

shop local when we can. The fashion industry is integral to our identity, culture, and heritage and it can only get better if we amplify it and help it become more sustainable.

What excites you about the future of fashion?

Fashion scholars and students, designers, and consumers are engaging in deeper conversations on the history of fashion. Many in the fashion industry are no longer shying away from the need to decolonize fashion.

Instead, they're demanding the exploration of uncomfortable connections between fashion and truth and reconciliation, colonialism, racism, labour relations, and the environment, for instance. Fashion is personal but it's also deeply political, as we've seen both historically and more recently through movements such as Black Lives Matter where clothing, accessories, and design have literally helped fashion the resistance.

Strategic Account Manager: Anna Sibiga Strategic Account Director: Jessica Golyatov Country Manager: Nina Theodorlis Content and Production Manager: Raymond Fan Designer: Lauren Livingston Web Editor: Karthik Talwar All images are from Getty Images unless otherwise credited. This section was created by Mediaplanet and did not involve National Post or its editorial departments. Send all inquiries to ca.editorial@mediaplanet.com.

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Q&A

Understanding Sustainability Is Essential for Today's Fashion Students

Kelly Drennan, Founding Executive Director of Fashion Takes Action, shares her insights on what it takes for fashion companies to be more sustainable and ethical.

Seneca’s School of Fashion has woven sustainability through its entire curriculum, creating highly sought-after graduates in this evolving industry.

Tania Amardeil

D

What are the biggest barriers fashion brands are currently facing that are inhibiting them from integrating sustainable frameworks into their business practices?

Kelly Drennan Founding Executive Director, Fashion Takes Action

For many brands the biggest challenge is that they lack both the knowledge and a strategy to implement sustainable actions. Some were quick to get on the sustainability bandwagon but had a poor strategy to execute, and then ultimately failed. This leads to lack of motivation to give it another go.

Another challenge is deciding where to start. There are so many problems facing the industry, from water use and pollution, waste, and labour, to carbon emissions and toxic chemicals. It’s impossible to do everything at once and there’s an overwhelming number of resources available. Brands really need to assess where they're at and what their greatest risks are, and then prioritize.

Mark Joseph O'Connell Professor in the School of Fashion, Seneca College & Former Clothing Line Owner

Why is it important for sustainability to be incorporated into all elements of the fashion industry?

Be inspired by industry-leading research and expert faculty

We really have no choice. This industry is one of the world's largest polluters and the fashion supply chain is global. This makes it challenging for brand owners because so much of their supply chain isn't visible. Traceability and transparency are key to the industry being able to level up and reverse the damage it has caused to the environment.

What is the biggest misconception surrounding sustainable and ethical manufacturing?

First, I think the words sustainable and ethical are confusing to many. They can mean so many things, including reduced emissions, using less water, zero waste, organic, fair trade, and so on. Brands need to get more specific about what they're doing and not just hide behind these blanket terms. This is where transparency is key!

I also think there's a misconception that perfection exists. Nobody can achieve perfection. Instead we need to celebrate the progress that's being made and applaud those in the industry for the changes that are being made, (while at the same time holding them accountable — particularly regarding public-facing targets or goals).

o you hear “fashion” and think of trends, runways, and red carpets? What about globalization, mass production, and ethical, environmentally-conscious products? The world of fashion is changing, and today, one of fashion’s hottest topics is sustainability.

For fashion lovers and students seeking to find their place in the industry, Seneca is the place to be. Seneca’s School of Fashion teaches fashion arts, fashion business management, visual merchandising, and fashion studies. Sustainability is a common thread throughout these programs.

Sabine Weber Professor in the School of Fashion, Seneca College & Co-Founder Ontario Textile Diversion Collaborative

How can consumers ensure they're making informed decisions when it comes to purchasing clothing?

Buy less and buy used — these are the most important things to remember (reduce and reuse). If you have to buy something new then read the label, do your research (which isn’t that onerous given we all have smartphones), and visit the brand's website. If they don’t mention sustainability or if they do but it sounds like fluffy greenwashing, then don’t buy it. And look for third-party certification to verify claims that are being made. If it says “organic,” see if they carry an organic certification.

Seneca’s passionate professors are demonstrating leadership through research designed to solve some of the industry’s most integral issues. Students at Seneca get hands-on experience working on projects that make a difference.

Mark Joseph O’Connell, a professor in the School of Fashion and former clothing line owner, focuses on Canadian fashion systems in the global market, and has conducted field research on First Nations weaving in Mexico and fashion upcycling in Cuba.

“Students who are thinking sustainably are the ones who are going to make a positive change,” says O’Connell.

Sabine Weber, also a professor in the School of Fashion and co-founder of the Ontario Textile Diversion Collaborative, focuses on textile waste. “There’s no data on textile waste in Canada,” she says. To close this data gap, Weber undertook a research project with Seneca students to analyze how many textiles end up in the garbage.

With professors committed to sustainability blazing the way, it’s no surprise that Seneca’s students are galvanized to take on their own big projects.

To learn more about Seneca’s School of Fashion, visit senecacollege.ca/ school-of-fashion.

This article was sponsored by

Building a Greener Future Through Youth Climate Education and Action

Dr. Bonnie Schmidt President & Founder, Let's Talk Science

The fashion industry is responsible for approximately 10 percent of annual global carbon emissions, (and fashion-related emissions are expected to grow by more than 50% by 2030). The clothing industry impacts our water, soil, and a variety of ecosystems.

Learning about climate change can feel overwhelming. Focusing on clothing offers youth an engaging and empowering entry point to learn about this global problem.

“Youth who understand climate science will understand the causes and effects of climate change more easily, and may be more likely to take individual action to reduce their own impact and make positive change,” says Let’s Talk Science president and founder Dr. Bonnie Schmidt.

Climate project empowers youth to take action Let’s Talk Science, in partnership with the Royal Society of Canada (RSC), is launching a national climate science initiative called Clothing4Climate that will help youth develop a fundamental understanding of climate science. The project encourages them to explore the environmental impacts of clothing and to take action through meaningful and sustainable clothing choices to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

“This is an amazing opportunity for the RSC community to connect with youth across Canada, sharing knowledge and expertise across disciplines and generations,” says RSC President Dr. Jeremy McNeil. “Together, we

can build a better country and future through education and action.”

The Clothing4Climate project will also be supported by the Toronto-based education organization Fashion Takes Action, which will be providing access to industry experts and a network of youth ambassadors who are passionate about sustainable fashion.

Offered at no cost in English and French, the project takes an action-oriented approach to learning that is relevant, powerful, and engaging, teaching youth how to ask meaningful questions, use scientific approaches to gather data, and create change based on their evidence.

Our clothing system is impacting the environment

It’s time to take action! letstalkscience.ca/clothing4climate

Learn more about Clothing4Climate at letstalkscience.ca/ clothing4climate.

This article was sponsored by Let's Talk Science.

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It's Time to Confront the Canadian Fashion Industry's Startling Secret Oxfam Canada’s What She Makes campaign is tackling inequality in the fashion industry and urging Canadian brands to pay workers living wages.

Tania Amardeil

Tackling inequality in the Canadian fashion industry

Amanda Gomm Campaigner, Oxfam Canada

This article was sponsored by Oxfam Canada.

“What She Makes is a newly-launched campaign from Oxfam Canada that’s seeking to change the practices of big Canadian fashion brands,” says Amanda Gomm, a What She Makes campaigner at Oxfam Canada, one of 21 Standing up for organizations worldwide Canadian clothing that make up Oxfam without poverty Systemic exploitation and International. Together woven into its fabric widespread poverty wages they work in more than With their influencing in the fashion industry are 90 countries to fight power in the garment denying the women who inequality. “Systemic i n d u s t r y ’s b u y e r ’s make our clothes basic exploitation and widema rket, Ca nadia n human rights and decent fashion brands have a spread poverty wages in lives, and Canadian brands the fashion industry are responsibility to make are part of this problem. denying the women who a change. We must supmake our clothes basic port ethical fashion human rights and decent — and consumers have a role to play in this, too. When consumers lives, and Canadian brands are part of this problem," says Gomm. speak up and let their favourite brands know Oxfam Canada believes that Canadian that responsible consumerism matters to fashion brands have the potential to be a catathem, these companies will be encouraged to change their practices. lyst for good, and the organization is urging The cost shouldn’t be put on consumers, five companies — Joe Fresh, Roots, lululemon, Herschel Supply Co., and Aritzia — to make a either. Gomm notes that they believe the cost commitment to pay the women who make our of paying a living wage can be absorbed in the supply chain. clothing a living wage.

“Even if we’re able to get one or two major The fashion industry’s gender fashion retailers to commit, this could affect imbalance the lives of potentially hundreds of thouWomen are the threads that hold the garsands of women and their families,” she adds. ment industry together. Approximately 80

FASHIO DIAN NC A N EO A C

$18,562/day

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To get involved and make a change, visit oxfam.ca/ campaign/wsm to sign Oxfam’s pledge demanding brands pay a living wage and use the hashtag #WhatSheMakes on social media.

percent of garment workers are women.

Unfortunately, these women are an especially vulnerable group. They often come from poverty and lack basic education, having done low-skilled work since they were children. The pandemic has only worsened their situation.

“Before the pandemic, I used to get $154,” says 35-year-old garment worker Reshma.

“Prices of daily groceries and everything have increased. The money I receive isn’t sufficient to run my family.”

“I feel tired all the time,” says Taslima, 21. “As I cannot afford proper food with my wages, I’m becoming weak. Everything is expensive now, including vegetables and potatoes. Some days I just eat rice with salt.”

Oxfam focuses on promoting the rights of women and girls in its mission to build lasting solutions to poverty and injustice, understanding that ending global poverty begins with women’s rights.

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n today’s world, would you be able to live on $0.60 an hour? No? Neither can the Bangladeshi women who are making the clothes you’re wearing. Imagine trying to feed yourself or your family on so little. And yet, in stark contrast, it would take just over four days for a top fashion CEO to earn what a Bangladeshi woman working in the garment industry would earn in her entire lifetime.

There’s deep inequality in the fashion industry, and many Canadians are shocked to find out that while companies profit, the workers who make their clothes aren’t paid anything close to a living wage.

Average Salary on 6 Days a Week, 8 Hours a Day

$5/day