Fig 1. Stav Strashko, no date.
Diversity in the Fashion Industry
CONTENTS
Fig 2. Winnie Harlow, 2015
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For years the fashion industry has been under scrutiny for displaying an ideal of beauty that for the most part is unachievable. Models used in fashion brand campaigns tend not be diverse in terms of body shape, beauty and age and often do not display diversity in terms of ethnicity and disability. Both high-street and luxury labels have been scrutinized in the media for lacking diversity in their campaigns.
Fig 3. New York Model, 2015
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AGE Fig 4. Balmain 2016
The average age of a fashion model is 18. However, recently we have begun to see older women being featured more often in fashion campaigns. (Moss, 2016) Balmain used Cindy Crawford (49), Naomi Campbell (45) and Claudia Schiffer (45) in its spring 2016 campaign. (Carlos, 2016), and Giorgio Armani too launched a range named ‘the new normal’, which included models such as Yasmin Le Bon (51), Nadja Auermann (44), Stella Tennant (45) and Eva Herzigová (42) (Phelps, 2016). All Fig 5. Carlos 2016 these brands have used women that in comparison to the regular models would be considered ‘old’.
However, this suggests that the fashion industry has attained a different outlook on what age is considered to be ‘old’. None of the women featured in these campaigns appear old with perfect complexions, healthy hair and youthful bodies.
Joan Didion age 80 became the new face of Celine in 2015 and shortly after Joni Mitchell age 80 modelled for Saint Laurent and Dolce & Gabanna’s Spring 2015 campaign featured three elderly Italian women. As opposed to the older women featured in the previous campaigns mentioned, the women in these campaigns actually do look older. However it does highlight the fashion industry’s obsession with extremes.
Fig 6. Celiene 2015
There appears to be no in between; there is little evidence in the luxury sector of older women used in fashion
Fig 7. Celiene 2015
3 campaigns who give a true representation of an older woman. High street brands appear more capable of using older women in their campaigns to communicate with their target market. Marks and spencer’s spring/ summer 2014 campaign was described to “embody British diversity” (Alexander, 2014). JD Williams set up a photo shoot named ‘fashion begins at fifty’ where everyone involved was over the age of 50, as their research had shown Fig 8. M&S 2014 60% of women over 50 felt unrepresented in the media. (Karpf, 2014) Jacky O'Shaughnessy (62) also featured in American Apparel’s 2014 ad (Chernikoff, 2014).
The use of underage models is also an issue; they are encouraged to maintain tiny physiques and work long hours on low pay. They are susceptible to drug and sexual abuse, with 80% of young models saying they have been exposed to this in their career (Malliaros, 2012). It was reported that Marc Jacobs kept a 14 year old model working past 4.30am. (Avila, 2015) LilyFig 9. Over-50s 2016 Rose Depp (16), became the new face of Chanel, walking on the runway and featuring in the new eye wear campaign and Sofia Mechetner (14) walked in Dior’s Couture Fall 2015 show, causing controversy as she wore a see through dress in which her breasts were visible. It is evident that with the dangers in the industry for young models, it is necessary for regulations to be enforced. If designers followed the guidelines in place, this would mean a safer working environment. However, many disregard the rules; even the president of the CFDA Dian von Furstenburg has cast a 15 year old in her show (Avila, 2015). Fig 10. Lily-Rose Depp 2015
Fig 11.Dior Model 2014
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ETHNICITY A woman of colour in the western world is obliged to admire fashion worn by models of different body shapes and skin tones (2016, Bell,P). The problem is suggested to be surrounding the clients, which links to this being one of the most sensitive debates within the fashion industry. If a client is criticized for having no ethnic diversity of models in their shows, they justify the statement by saying that their collections have been inspired by the brands heritage. The Fashion Spot collected data from 373 shows and 9,926 model appearances across the Spring 2016 runways of New York, London, Paris and Milan. They reported, “77.6 percent of the time models were white.” (Diamond, A 2015).
It is common knowledge within the fashion world that “finding work for black clients is significantly harder” (White, C. 2008). Modeling agencies such as BMA models became “the first UK agency to book and market models of all nationalities and ethnicities directly to clients” (2016. BMA). Agencies like BMA are a good metric for change, if ethnic diversity begins to change on the catwalk.
Fig 12.Estee Lauder 2016
Fashion is in tune with social change, the internet has enabled the rise of influencers outside of the fashion industry’s traditionally narrow definition of beauty, including bloggers through social media platforms (Wissinger,E. 2016). Designers are beginning to celebrate individuals to carry the brand than rather a ‘type’ of look. The images that designers portray is incredibly powerful, however in the western world it is noticeable that White people dominate advertising campaigns and editorials. Within the luxury markets, there are designers that use a diverse range of models in their Fig 13. Tom Ford 2016 shows, one example is Tom Ford (2016, Hardison,B). There are also top models such as Naomi Campbell, Iman, Tyra Banks and Jourdan Dunn just to name a few, whom are captured in shows, campaigns and editorials, however this does not go as far to making a sustainable change. This year multi-racial design due Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborn of Public School boy won the CFDA Fashion Fund Award.
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Fig 14 Pinko 2016
What is majorly different to the high street brands is the idea that “High-end advertising operates on a principle of not only aspiration, but also on a principle of unattainability — something that is so fantastic and so beautiful that it is damn near impossible to achieve� (2016, Mears). Aesthetic exclusivity, many western designers originated in Italy and have a deep heritage and a history of customers. Their aim is to have a specific customer base to stay loyal to the brand and is not open to inherit other ideas of beauty. For example when the Chinese are buying a Chanel handbag they are buying it from the iconic Paris brand, not a local product
It is incredibly one sided to suggest that the fashion industry shapes a western look. There are many examples of trending subcultures to trickle up, such as urban, hip-hop and safari chic. Due to this being such a deep routed issue, fixing the problem is a lot harder than just promoting the issue. It is our responsibility to advocate openmindedness towards ethnicity in the fashion industry, and lead to a trickledown effect, so in the future brands can cater to all different types of beauty with an accurate inclusive representation.
Fig 15 Creative Directors 2015
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BODY SHAPE Although these issues are strong within the industry, one of the most controversial subjects in the fashion industry is body shape, and the way consumers’ views and opinions have developed and changed over the past two decades. Both luxury and high street brands have continuously come under scrutiny over their portrayal of body shapes and sizes, favoring excessively thin models to market and model their brands. High Street brands have become more lenient in how they portray body shape through advertising and communications, particularly window and store displays, using bigger sized mannequins within stores to create a more diverse image of body shape instead of using one that consumers may think they will only be able to wear particular types of clothing if they’re meeting the body standards of the mannequins. Topshop came under fire in 2015 when a Facebook user created a post slamming Fig 16 Topshop 2015 the unrealistic body shape of their mannequins (figure 16), stating the brand needs to “take responsibility’” as they have a "lack of concern for a generation of extremely body conscious youth" (Berry 2005 cited in Conlon 2015). Topshop then commented back as this saying that they would stop producing the model in question however upon visiting a store, Topshop are still using very thin mannequins. Although this particular high street brand haven’t changed their portrayal in the fashion industry of what they’re communicating to the consumer, other high street brands have took the stand to do so, such as Debenhams who now produce UK size 16 dummies (BBC 2013), however this can be seen as just a marketing ploy to increase profits and reputation by communicating to consumers that they’re about body diversity (figure 17).
Fig 17 Debenhams 2014
Fig 18 Tess Holliday 2015
7 Fig 19 YSL Banned Ad 2015
Luxury designer brands however continuously use stick thin models on catwalks, with some promoting the body shape and size, with Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld saying that they’re not actually as skinny as people make out, and that “It is not acceptable for people to be overweight” (Lagerfeld 2012 cited in London et al 2012). With many luxury designers refusing to back down on the use of such petite models and also small sizing of clothes, they’re communicating that the only acceptable body shape to be is thin, and although the issue isn’t with what size they are in comparison to having a bigger range of sizes, the thought process is that being skinny is the only option to be. Marketing their products on catwalks has the same recurring pattern since the 90s, which has only saw models and clothing get smaller and smaller through the 21st century. In 2015 the Advertising Standards Authority had to ban an Yves Saint Laurent advert (figure 19) featuring an 18 year old model, over concerns of how thin she was stating the advertisement was irresponsible and promoting anorexia chic (Advertising Standards Authority 2015 cited in Pearson 2015). It’s clear there is a difference between the luxury and high street fashion brands in the way they portray body shape and size within the fashion industry, however it’s also interesting to how accessible luxury and high street brands are to a middle class consumer. High street brands such as Topshop and H&M are at the forefront of being face by consumer critique to make a change, as they’re more involved with what the consumer thinks and how they’re represented, whereas luxury brands are seen as more exclusive and are more interested in how the product will sell and how easy it is to market their clothing on a skinny model without curves, as well as the fact that they have that much money and power that they don’t need to make a Fig 20 Ready For Change 2015 difference in their clothing or model size.
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BEAUTY Whilst flicking through famous fashion magazines such as Vogue and Elle, readers are bombarded with images of ‘beautiful women’. These models tend to be thin, flawless skin with faces described as having “The Golden Ratio” (Meisner. G. 2014). Fashion brands use these models to attract us to the campaign and create desire to look like the model. Many luxury brands featured in the Vogue September 2000 such as Chloe, Valentino and Donna Karan use models that fit an ideal that for the most part is unachievable for the general public. In that particular issue the only luxury Fig 21 D&G Campaign 2016 campaign that was strikingly different was Ralph Lauren who used a celebrity model. Penelope Cruz was used in Lauren’s campaign and her olive skin and short stature goes against the ideals presented in other campaigns. However, it can be argued that both high street and luxury brands only use celebrity models in order to further publicise their brand and not to diversify away from the Caucasian, thin, fair model that one often sees.
It tends to be the case that high-street fashion brands use models with a more relaxed ideal of beauty, for example, Gap. In 2000 Gap released a campaign using an un-retouched mixedrace model sporting her natural afro hair and the natural and relaxed nature of the campaign meant it felt a world away from the clinical luxury campaigns. These campaigns create a better relationship with the mass-market and break down the ideals put forward by conventional fashion. Throughout Dolce & Gabbana’s campaigns we see a variety of people in a community-based scene but it is only the models that are actually wearing the brand. This then portrays exclusivity, the idea that the fashion industry does not successfully diversify their beauty ideals
Male models in Valentino and DKNY adverts are both tanned, muscular with a strong jawline. For both men and women it then sets the tone that men that don’t fit the male beauty ideal are automatically undesirable. However, saying this, in Elle 2016 magazine male models appearing in the Gucci campaign were pale, thin and effeminate; the polar opposite of Vogue 2000. Although this shows a male not appearing strong or powerful I think it is a one-off since leading models in 2016 include Lucky Blue Smith and Dudley O'Shaughnessy who still come under the ‘strong’ male stereotype.
Fig 22 Candice Swanepoel 2016
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Luxury brands are always trying to display elitism and exclusivity through their products and their ad campaigns, but Topshop is a high-street chain and repeat offender of a lack of diversity. They promote this ideal to the massmarket that to be considered beautiful you need to be ‘pretty, skinny, cool, stylish’ and by using celebrity models such as Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Kate Moss they promote to a young audience that in order to succeed you need to meet this ideal of beauty (Stavvers. 2011). This can also be said with the Victoria Secret Angels as they unintentionally promote the idea that to be successful you need to fit the beauty mould, with a strong push on ‘becoming an angel’ (CBS. 2010). Fig 23 Winnie Harlow 2015
It isn’t just brands changing the way we perceive beauty, but models such as Winnie Harlow and Stav Strashko are fore frontal in breaking these walls down. Harlow is “the model changing the face of fashion” (Sowray. B. 2015) and suffers from the skin condition, vitiligo, representing Desigual and Diesel in their campaigns. Strashko, on the other hand, is a male model who identifies as female and was featured in Diesel’s “its complicated” campaign. This campaign is striking and not only breaks down beauty ideals but promotes the idea of beauty within the transgender community (Press. V. S. 2016).
Fig 24 Diesel “It’s Complicated” 2016
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DISABILITY Although the fashion industry is seen generically to be very glamourous in the media, the majority of catwalk models are expected to look, act and think certain way whilst on the catwalk. However this is beginning to evolve. Both Luxury and high-street market are hiring or considering to use models with physical disabilities. This is a huge change for the fashion industry as the ‘perfect look’ they attempt to portray to the general public is changing.
In the luxury market sector, some of the models who are being hired have appeared on television in popular programs such as Jamie Brewer in American Horror story. Following from this, Breaking Bad star RJ Mitte who suffers from cerebral palsy walked the catwalk for Vivienne Westwood in June 2015 (Marriott, H; 2015). Additionally, Jillian Mercado has muscular dystrophy was signed to IMG models and featured in a Diesel campaign (Marriott, H; 2015). Fig 25 RJ Mitte 2016
Fig 26 NYFW 2016
11 Fig 27 Kylie Jenner 2016
Reality television star Kylie Jenner recently did a cover shoot for interview magazine, showing her posing in a wheelchair when she has no disabilities. This created an uproar from many disabled models, accusing interview magazine of ‘ableism’ (Saul, H; 2015). Although interview magazine defended Kylie Jenner and themselves, disabled model Gemma Flanagan posed as Kylie mocking the offensive shoot she did for interview magazine (Daily Mail, 2015).
In the high-street market/mid-market sector there was a controversial up rise from the pubic story the press released on Riam Dean, a twenty-two year old law student who sued Abercrombie and Fitch for discrimination of her disability (Pidd, H; 2009). She accused them of hiding her in the stockroom when she refused to take her cardigan off to reveal her prosthetic arm. She felt that Abercrombie and Fitch felt her prosthetic arm did not fit into their ‘looks policy’. Dean felt that the manager of the Savile row store she worked at in London asked her to remove her cardigan as it goes against the ‘looks policy’ as a way of covering that actually it was her prosthetic arm that was the problem (Pidd, H; 2009).
Fig 28 Student Awarded 2009 2016
12 In summary it’s clear that the fashion industry still does not fully diversify their ideals in terms of beauty, age, ethnicity, body shape or disability. Readers are continuously bombarded with an ideal image that consumers must adhere to, even though luxury and high street brands are beginning to break the ideals set in place by the fashion industry. Models like Harlow and Strashko are praised for their alternative beauty, however this diversity is only a minute percentage of the fashion industry and its unachieved standards. Luxury markets have few popular brands using disabled models in campaigns, promoting that our idea of beauty is unrealistic, however it’s clear that there is more discrimination than promotion of disabled models particularly in high street markets. These issues extend to body shape, a controversial subject that has been a core subject around the fashion industry. Although there is more diversity in the industry than previous years regarding body shape, there are still strong views that only thin is the ideal standard in fashion, and this is evident through both high street and luxury markets. This danger not only involves size and shape but also age, ranging from 14- 80, which has led to over worked models, particularly 14 year olds having to work till 4:30am. Although the age range has extended and signifies diversification in the fashion industry, luxury markets are modelling youthful bodied, fair skinned women with no wrinkles, although within luxury markets the women look more their age than half their age, making the conclusion there is more diversity concerning age in the high street than luxury companies who are still looking for a young image. Luxury and high street brands are extending this image continuously, in terms of ethnicity fixing the issue is a lot harder than just promoting it. It’s one sided to suggest the fashion industry shapes a western look, as there are subcultures trending such as urban, hip-hop and safari chic, however in both luxury and high street campaigns its clearly subjugated by Caucasian models. All these issues within the industry are slowly changing how we perceive the ideal standard but it is still not a diverse industry, with the typical image still dominating both the Luxury and high street markets in today’s society.
Fig 29 Debenhams 2015
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CREDIT Age Ethnicity Body Shape Beauty Disability Visual Presentation
Beth Church Bella Bond Kate Edwards Josie Clarke Chloe Bradley Kate Edwards & Josie Clarke
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15 Freeman, H. 2015. Why black models are rarely in fashion. [Online] [25 April 2016] Available from http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2014/feb/18/black-models-fashion-magazinescatwalks Webster, G. 2015. Race and fashion: still an issue?. [Online] [25 April 2016]. Available from: http://edition.cnn.com/2011/10/07/living/fashion-industry-race/ BMA models.com. 2016. About Us. [Online] [Accessed 25 April 2015]. Available from: http://www.bmamodels.com/about_us.php Bell, P. 2015. Addressing Fashion Week’s Race Problem: Talking About It Is Like Farting Loudly During A Karl Lagerfeld Show [Online] [Accessed 25 April 2016] Available from: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2015/10/22/why-no-models-diversity-fashion-week-blackmodels_n_8345074.html Conlon, S. 2015. Topshop Responds To Mannequin Storm. Vogue News. [Online]. [No volume] [No pagination] [Accessed 9 March 2016]. Available from:http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2015/07/28/topshop-pledges- to-stop- ordering-unrealisticallythin-mannequins BBC News, 2013. Debenhams Introduces Plus Sized Mannequins. [Online] [Accessed 9 March 2016] Available from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-24831824 London, B. Johnson, S. 2012. Models are not that skinny: Karl Lagerfeld faces new eating disorder storm just months after branding Adele too fat. Daily Mail. [Online] [Accessed 9 March 2016] Available from: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2216847/Models- skinny-Karl- Lagerfeldfaces-new- eating-disorder- storm-just- months-branding- Adele-fat.html Pearson, R. 2015. YSL ad ban. Scarily thin models are indefensible, even to ambitions models like me. The Telegraph. [Online] [Assessed 10 March 2016] Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/womens-life/11648251/YSL- fashion-ban- Scarily-thin- womenare-indefensible- to-models- like-me.html Franklin. C. 2011. Fashion Can Promote Broader Body and Beauty Ideals [Online] [Accessed 11 February 2016] Available from: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/caryn-franklin/fashion-canpromote-broad_b_889651.html Horton. H. 2015. Can you spot this Victoria’s Secret Photoshop fail? [Online] [Accessed 11th February 2016] Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/11919718/victorias-secret-lingeriefacebook-photoshop-fail.html Meisner. G. 2014. Facial Analysis and the Beauty Mask [Online] [Accessed 27th February 2016] Available from: http://www.goldennumber.net/beauty/ Press. V. S. 2016. Diesel taps Israeli model Stav Strashko for global campaign. [Online [] [Accessed 27 February 2016] Available from: http://www.israel21c.org/diesel-taps-israeli-model-stav-strashkofor-global-campaign/
16 Sowray. B. 2015. Winnie Harlow, the model changing the face of fashion [Online] [Accessed 10th February 2016] Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/people/winnie-harlow-modelwith-vitiligo/ Stavvers. 2011. Reasons to hate Topshop [Online] [Accessed 22 February 2016] Available from: https://stavvers.wordpress.com/2011/07/12/reasons-to-hate-topshop/ CBS. 2010. Victoria’s Secret: Making of an Angel. [Online] [Accessed 11 February 2016] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQw6k-S4v7A Elle Magazine. 2016. February Issue. United Kingdom:Hearst Vogue Magazine. 2000. September Issue. New York:Condé Nast Daily Mail. 2015. Disabled model poses in a PVC corset in response to Kylie Jenner’s wheelchair shoot. [Online] [Accessed 12 April 2016]. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article3362220/Disabled-model-poses- PVC-corset- response-Kylie- Jenner-s- hypocritical-wheelchairshoot.html Marriott, H. 2015. The Guardian. Fashion has to do much more if it is serious about catwalk diversity. [Online] [Accessed 12 April 2016] Available from:http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/aug/29/fashion-industry- diversity-modelsdisabilities-jillian- mercado-jamie- brewer O’Hagan, E. 2015. The Sun. ‘Kylie Jenners wheelchair shoot was so offensive’: meet the models smashing fashions final taboo. [Online]. [Accessed 12 April 2016]. Available at: http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/fabulous/6940509/Kylie-Jenners- wheelchair-shoot-wasso- offensive-Meet- the-models- smashing-fashions- final-frontier.html Pidd, H. 2009. The Guardian. Disabled student sues Abercrombie and Fitch for discrimination. [Online] [Accessed 12 April 2016]. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/money/2009/jun/24/abercrombie-fitch- tribunal-riam- dean Saul, H. 2015. The Independent. Kylie Jenner: interview magazine defends her controversial shoot. [Online]. [Accessed 12 April 2016]. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/kyliejenner-interview- magazine-defends- controversial-wheelchair- photoshoot-a6756906.html
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FIGURES Figure 1. Stav Strashko, no date. Stav Strashko. [Online] [Date Accessed 3 May 2016] Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/443182419555325355 Figure 2. Mail Online, 2015. Model cruelly labelled ‘cow’ for having Michael Jackson’s skin condition prove doubters wrong as the star of a glamorous new shoot. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] available from: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3003867/Model-cruelly-labelled-cowhaving-Michael-Jackson-s-skin-condition-proves-doubters-wrong-star-glamorous-new-shoot.html Figure 3. Tempesta, E. 2015. Actress makes history as the first ever model with Down syndrome to walk the runway at New York Fashion Week. [Online] [Date Accessed 3 May 2016] Available from: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2950916/Actress-makes-history-model-syndrome-walkrunway-New-York-Fashion-Week.html Figure 4. Steven Klein, 2016. Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer star in Balmain campaign. [Online] [Date Accessed 25 April 2016] Available from: http://my.asiatatler.com/fashionbeauty/fashion/naomi-campbell-cindy-crawford-claudia-schiffer-star-balmain-SS16-campaign Figure 5 Carlos, M. 2016. How Zoë Kravitz and Lisa Bonet nailed Mommy-and-Me style before it was even a thing. [Online]. [Accessed: 25 April 2016]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/13388108/lisa-bonet-zoe-kravitz-mother-daughter-calvin-klein-red-carpet/ Figure 6. Marriott, H. 2015. Joan Didion and Céline: Why old age is having a fashion moment. [Online]. [Accessed: 21 April 2016]. Available from: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/shortcuts/2015/jan/07/joan-didion-and-celine-why-old-ageis-having-a-fashion-moment Figure 7. Marriott, H. 2015. Joan Didion and Céline: Why old age is having a fashion moment. [Online]. [Accessed: 21 April 2016]. Available from: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/shortcuts/2015/jan/07/joan-didion-and-celine-why-old-ageis-having-a-fashion-moment Figure 8. Alexander, E. 2014. M&S leading ladies campaign revealed. [Online]. [Accessed: 21 April 2016]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2014/03/24/marks--spencer-new-campaign--doreen-lawrence-emma-thompson-and-annie-lennox Figure 9. Cherrington, R. 2016. This over-50 fashion campaign just made history. [Online]. [Accessed: 21 April 2016]. Available from: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2016/01/18/jd-williams-fashionbegins-at-50_n_9009266.html Figure 10. Allwood, E. H. 2015. Largerfeld’s new Chanel muse? Lily- Rose Depp. [Online] [Accessed 21 April 2016] Available from: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25505/1/lagerfeld-s-newchanel-muse-lily-rose-depp Figure 11. Montag, I. 2015. Sofia Mechetner, The 14-year-old Dior model with her very own Cinderella story. [Online] [Accessed 21 April 2016] Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/people/sofia-mechetner-the-14-year-old-dior-model-with-hervery-own-cinderella-story/
18 Figure 12. Liya Kebed for Estee Lauder. [Online] [Accessed 25 April 2016]. Available from: http://www.breakingtravelnews.com/news/article/btn2000630/ Figure 13. Tom Ford, 2013. Tom Ford F/W Ready to Wear and Eyewear Campaign.. [Online] [Accessed 25 April 2016] Available from: https://models.com/work/tom-ford-tom-ford-fw-13-readyto-wear-and-eyewear-campaign Figure 14. Duella, D and Henzi, I. Naomi Campbell In Pinko Capaign. [Online] [Accessed 25 April 2016]. Available from: https://audrina1759.wordpress.com/tag/naomi-campbell/ Figure 15. Dao-yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. 2015.. Dao-Yi + Maxwell Osbourne Tapped As DKNY Creative Directors. [Online] [Accessed 25 April 2016]. Available form: http://www.thefashionisto.com/dao-yi-chow-maxwell-osborne-tapped-as-dkny-creative-directors/ Figure 16. Berry, L. K. 2015. Dear Topshop. [Online] [Accessed 07 April 2016] Available from: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=392076674326665&set=o.59672929326&typ e=3 Figure 17. Hoskins, R. 2014. Debehams unveils size 16 mannequins that reflect the average woman’s body – and say other retailers should follow suit. [Online] [Date Accessed 7 April 2016] Available from: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2488259/Debenhams- unveils-size-16mannequins-reflect- average-woman.html Figure 18. Donovan, L. 2015. Plus Size Model Tess Holliday Just Spoke The Truth To Her Critics. [Online] [Date Accessed 28 April 2016] Available from: http://www.attn.com/stories/2394/plus-sizemodel-tess- holliday-breaking- barriers-women Figure 19. Elle Magazine UK. 2015. Yves Saint Laurent. [Online] [Date Accessed 7 Aprril 2016] {Available from: http://www.theguardian.com/media/2015/jun/03/yves-saint- laurent-ad- banunderweight-model Figure 20. Monique, 2015. Are We Ready For Change In The Plus Size Fashion Industry?. [Online] [Date Accessed 28 April 2016] Available from: http://curvesandchaos.com/2015/10/are-we- readyfor-change- in-the- plus-size- fashion-industry.html Figure 21: Fashion Gone Rogue. 2016. Dolce & Gabbana Celebrate the Italian Life With Spring 2016 Ads. [Online] [Accessed 28 February 2016] Available from: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/dolce-gabbana-spring-2016-campaign/ Figure 22. Listal. 2016. Candice Swanepoel. [Online] [Accessed 27 April 2016] Available from: http://www.listal.com/viewimage/2273659h Figure 23. Irish Examiner, 2015. See Winnie Harlow – the model with Vitiligo – in gorgeous new pics for Desigual. [Online] [Accessed 28 February 2016] Available from: http://www.irishexaminer.com/examviral/real-life/see-winnie-harlow--the-model-with-vitiligo--ingorgeous-new-pics-for-desigual-310269.html Figure 24. Diesel. 2016. Diesel: “It’s Complicated” Spring/Summer 16 Campaign. [Online][Accessed 28 February 2016] Available from: http://www.coloribus.com/adsarchive/prints/diesel-itscomplicated-20922905/
19 Figure 25. The Fashionisto. 2016. RJ Mitte Walks in Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2016 Show.[Online] [Accessed 03 May 2016]. Available at: http://www.thefashionisto.com/rj-mittewalks-in- vivienne-westwoods-springsummer-2016- show/ Figure 26. Mail Online. 2016. American Horror Story’s Jamie Brewer is first with Down syndrome towalk at NYFW [Online] [Accessed 03 May 2016]. Available at:http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2950916/Actress- makes-history- model-syndromewalk-runway- New-York- Fashion-Week.html. Figure 27. The Independent. 2016. Kylie Jenner: Interview magazine defends the controversial wheelchair photoshoot. [Online] [Accessed 03 May 2016]. Available at:http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/kylie-jenner- interview-magazine- defendscontroversial-wheelchair- photoshoot-a6756906.html#gallery. Figure 28. Mail Online, 2009. Student With Prostetic Arm Awarded £9,000. [Online] [Accessed 3 May 2016] Available form: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1206332/Disabled- student-winsAbercombie- Fitch-case- store-banished- stockroom.html Figure 29. Debenhams 2015. Debenhams shows divert in fashion. [Online] [Accessed 3 May 2016] Available from: http://blog.debenhams.com/news/debenhams-shows-diversity-in-fashion/
Word Count: 3046 Fashion in Context Kate Edwards Josie Clarke Isabella Bond Beth Church Chloe Bradley