Drivers Of fashion

Drivers Of Fashion

in the Fig 1. LDFW 2012

th 21

Century

Fig 2 Natalie Dormer 2016

01

03

05

Introduction

World Events

Globalisation

07

09

Society

Sustainability

13

15 Influential

Music, TV & Cinema

17 References

People

19

Figures

11

Technological Developments

16 Conclusion

01 Fig 6. Vogue (no date)

Fig 4. Jessica Alba (2014)

Fig 23 queen of the crop (2001)

Fig 5. Fendi SS/10 (2009)

02

In an era of individualisation and increasing attention to sustainability, fashion is changing and brands are adjusting their practices to meet the consumer demand, driving fashion to continue to change based on not only new values and lifestyles that consumers have now, but

also due to world events, changing demographics and technological advancements.

2000 was the beginning of not only a new century but a

new millennium, and fashion was continuing to be driven from the influence of the late 1990s, featuring box pleated skirts, halter tops, boot cut jeans and belly tops.

The 20th Century was a time of change for fashion, and this was down to the strong drivers that changed

people’s values and views. This continues through the 21st century, and as technology and globalisation rapidly increases so does the accessibility to fashion and new trends.

03

Fig 7. Ebay (2016)

Fig 8. 9/11 (2001)

World Events 04

In 2001 the world was shook by the news of the

September 11th attacks, not only changing the world but also driving fashion. After the attacks, camouflage fabric rapidly increased in clothing, with a military influence becoming popular again since within the 20th century.

After this, as the war in the Middle East continued so did military influences in clothing, with military fashion continuing as a dominant theme even amongst summer 2011’s trends (Dykes, 2011) and we see this from military jackets, trench coats, military style boots and embellishments in both high street and luxury

fashion, being popularised by celebrities.

Fig 9. Military Fashion (2010)

Fig 10. Trench Coats (no date)

05 Since coming into the 21st century, the world has become more accessible and the scale of communication and exchange globally has increased. New technologies and travel have meant that people are able to communicate globally,

providing

people

with

greater

influence from other cultures and societies with instant access to trends and catwalks as well as blogs, TV, films and magazines from their own home. With this companies are now reacting to the globalisation of their brand, mass production and mass manufacturing enables them to branch out, creating a “global style� (Kaiser 1999). Globalisation has meant that now shopping centres can have all these different styles and brands in one place, and like high-tech global bazaars, they cater to consumers of every age, gender, ethnicity, profession, and subculture (Rabine, 2006) Although at first this seems ideal for the consumer,

there

homogenisation,

is

as

also

fashion

a

cultural

culture

and

individuality is now decreasing due to the fact that although fashion is well globalised, trends are still apparent and consumers are still following a certain way of dressing, therefore individual style is diminishing.

Fig 11. Globalisation (no date)

Globalisation 06

Fig 12. Marchesa SS/13 (2012)

As well as this, globalisation can be problematic

as

it

doesn’t

take

into

consideration the differences there are in the demand of local markets in less developed

countries,

therefore

some

brands have struggled for example Marks and Spencer. While most British retailers and clothing manufacturers went global, drawing most of the garments from cheap labour areas, the icon of the High Street stood proudly aloof, resisting all such threats

to

quality

textiles

and

full

employment in Britain (Chapman, 2004 pg. 11). The consumer quickly tired of its 1960s British vibe and left to the globalised high street stores such as H&M and Zara, low cost high trend fashion representing the young market, everything Marks and Spencer isn’t.

Fig 13. Globalisation (2014)

Fig 14. Marks & Spencer (2015)

Fig 15. Kate McKibbin (no date)

Fig 16. Hip hop fashion (no date)

Society 08

07

For the first time in history, technology and social

media has developed that much is has completely

changed how the younger generation act with both society technology. Everything became quicker and easier. Laptops, mp3 players, cameras and phones all became somewhat as an Fig 17. Grunge (no date)

accessory in fashion, and the internet and technology have dramatically been able to speed up realising information and trends in fashion, with the consumer having practically instant updates now. Because of this society has become even more demanding in fashion, with mass production and manufacturing being sped up to meet the consumer demand. Companies now have to keep up to date with what society is doing to see what they’re interests are within social media and the internet to understand trends that are developing online. Society and social movements

Fig 15. Holiday In Emporio (2005)

have shifted through from 2000 to now. In an era of

individualism,

consumers

are

constantly

looking for unique fashion to stand out against others, and this has seen many different genres of fashion becoming into play such as the influence from previous decades such as the revival of the 60s and 70s fashion, ethnic and diverse fashion as well as punk, ’chav’ and hip hop fashion to name a Fig 18. LDFW (2015)

few.

09 As globalisation and mass production has been highlighted across the previous decade, so has the increasing attention to issues of sustainability, green or ecofashion

and

ethical

production.

As

consumers are more interested in health and wellbeing, sustainable and ethical fashion has become a main consumer trend, particularly in Europe. With an increase in awareness of the reuse of fibres and how ethical companies are, this has already led to change such as H&M conscious, who claim they’re committed to provide fashion to conscious customers, being

ethical,

reducing,

reusing

and

recycling, as well as using natural resources responsibly. In their 2014 sustainability

report

they

state

that

every

single

interaction should be guided by mutual respect,

integrity,

transparency

and

honesty, wanting to set a good example in

Fig 19. Lemuria (2012)

all operations (H&M 2014).

Fig 20. H&M (2012)

Sustainability 10

Not all companies take into consideration what’s going on in the rest of the supply chain, and consumers have become

more concerned about not knowing the whole process such as child and slave labour and for working conditions, which has led to boycotts of companies such as Primark following the collapse of a factory in 2013 leading to the death of more than 1100 people (Francis, 2014). Buzzwords such as Fairtrade and organic in fashion are attracting more consumers, and this has drove fashion to change to meet the

consumer demand. This has also lead to companies using sustainability to market themselves to consumers who care about sustainability and the environment.

Fig 21. Organic Cotton Fraud (2010)

Fig 22. Factory Collapse (2013)

11

Technological

As it is usually a common driver of change in fashion, technology produces new fabric that provides benefits to fashion. With new technology brings new research

and development of what are named ‘intelligent textiles’, materials that can provide benefits to clothing such as adapting to body temperature, monitoring health conditions and offering better protective capabilities. In 2015 Nike introduced Aeroreact, a line of clothing with a new fabric that adapts to changes in runners body temperatures. AeroReact is the result of several years of research and trials, with the textile’s bi-component yarn sensing moisture vapour and opening its structure to maximize breathability (Miess, 2015). Before that in 2014 at the US tennis open Ralph Lauren debuted his Polo Tech shirt, a compression shirt with

biometric sensors knitted into the core which included accelerometer, gyroscope, and heartbeat monitor (Kooser, 2014). In addition to this now all sports wear use wicking fabrics which are made from high tech polyester, drawing moisture from the body, as well as fabrics in general now being developed for easy finishing processes such as softer fabrics and easy care for them. 3D printing has been introduced in the past decade, creating virtually no material waste, as well as laser cutting which was first used in fashion by luxury brands, such as Giles Deacon and Givenchy.

Fig 23. LDFW A/W 2016 (2016)

Developments The

relationship

between

fashion

12 and

technology has led to a complete transformation in fashion goods. Technology is not only about manufacturing fabrics but also is used as a big inspiration and driver of fashion. In the beginning of the 21st Century, fashion was

strongly influenced by not only celebrities and previous decade’s fashion, but also influenced by the growing interest of technology. This was called “Y2K fashion” and it was made for clothing to be dark, sexy and technological. In an article from Entertainment Weekly, celebrity stylist Ricci DeMartino said “for the millennium,

there was a futuristic vibe in fashion”. Metallic, PVC black and thick greys became integrated in fashion, as well as straps and buckles. Combined Fig 24. 3D Printed Fashion (2012)

with the electronic pop music, silver and black were largely popular, with Balenciaga and Calvin Klein doing almost entirely black collections for AW01 (Brillson 2013).

Fig 25. Nike (2016)

Fig 26. An Odyessy (2012)

13

Fig 27. Youtube (2014)

Music,

Fig 28. Clueless (1995)

Fig 29. Spectre (2015)

Fig 30. Downton Abbey (2015)

Fig 31. ADTR (2016)

Fig 32. Pretty Little Liars (2015)

Cinema & TV

14

Regardless of whether we are aware, our large and constant consumption of celebrity pop culture has a large influence on the way we decide to express ourselves through clothing (Mauwerik 2013). As well as this, the fashion cycle has gone round again and in the 21st century there is a lot of clothing inspiration taken from different decades of the 20th century. Because of the ability to see what pop stars and TV stars are doing through Fig 33. Flashback Fashion (no date)

technology, this makes them instant influential drivers in fashion. The symbiotic relationship of pop stars and fashion has always give the industry new trends (Fibre2Fashion date unknown). In the beginning of the 21 century, fashion was strongly influences by late 90s pop stars such as Britney Spears and Christina Aguilera. Music videos produced thin women with miniskirts, cargo pants (Skinner 2004) belly tops and muscly men in denim jeans and baseball caps.

Fig 34. Tumblr (no date)

Influential People From

2010

onwards

fashion

has

been

influenced by indie pop music, as well as

celebrities such as Kate Middleton, Kylie Jenner Fig 35. Kylie Jenner Talks Bullies (no date)

and Jennifer Lawrence. However on a closer look it’s not about exactly what they’re wearing, and are about what the person is representing which makes people influenced and interested in an outfit or trend. Kate Middleton acts as a representative of a lifestyle of beauty and feminine empowerment (Mauwerik 2013) and consumer look at her in the position she is in, linking it to class and elegance which is what they’re striving to be when copying her style.

Fig 36. Voogue (2016)

Fig 37. The 1975 Brasil (no date)

There has been many different drivers of fashion from 2000 – present. The access to social media has gave celebrities and music a higher position in the influence of fashion,

creating a big impact on society and how different generations are looking towards fashion. With the younger generation having more disposable incomes they’re shopping more at luxury brands, striving for brands that influential people are buying from to be able to buy the same things as them, ideally to give of the same expression and representation as their ‘idols’. This era, also known as the digital era is growing in how close we are as a society to technology, and with the increase in social media users and fashion bloggers you are never more than 5 minutes away from finding the newest

trend, or what a celebrity is wearing. Everything is now quicker, including consumer demand.

Technological developments have completely revolutionised sportswear,

putting fabrics into clothing to extend and create comfortable athletic clothing, such as Nike’s Aeroreact, that helps people to perform longer and potentially better. For the first time sustainability has become a large driver for fashion and how consumers view a brand, creating buying decisions. This is still continuing to push fashion companies through the pressure from consumer demand on sustainable products and ethical brands, including all aspects of their supply chain.

Fig 38. Fashion Leaflets (2015)

17

References

• Dykes, Daniel P. 2011. Men’s military trend comes full circle. Fashionising. [Online] [Date Accessed 28 March 2016] Available from: http://www.fashionising.com/trends/b--Armedforces-fashion-for-men-comes-full-circle-7075.html • Entertainment Weekly Staff. DeMartin, Ricci. 2000. The Hottest trends of 2000 from Burberry plaid too distressed jeans, this year’s fashion don’ts. [Online] [Date Accessed 28 March 2016] Available from: http://www.ew.com/article/2000/12/22/hottest-trends-2000 • Kaiser, Susan. "Identity, Postmodernity, and the Global Apparel Marketplace." In Meanings of Dress, edited by M. L. Damhorst, K. Miller, and S. Michelman. New York: Fairchild, 1999.

• Rabine, L.W. (2006) Globalization and the fashion industry. [Online] [Date accessed 29 March 2016] Available from: http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-clothingindustry/globalization-fashion-industry • Chapman, Stanley. 2004. Socially Responsible Supply Chains: Mars & Spencer in Historic Perspective. Nottingham University Business School. Research Paper Series ICCSR. Page 11.

• H&M Concious, 2014. H&M Conscious Actions: Sustainability Report 2014. [Online] [Date Accessed 29 March 2016] Available from: http://sustainability.hm.com/en/sustainability.html#cm-menu •

Francis, Alannah. 2014. I boycotted Primark after the tragedy of Rana Plaza for a more ethical wardrobe. The Guardian [Online] [Date accessed 30 March 2016] Available from: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2014/apr/24/boycotted-primark-rana-plazaethical-wardrobe

18 • Miess, Ashley. 2015. Nike introduces fabric that adapts to changes in runner’s temperature. [Online] [Date Accessed 31 March 2016] Available from: http://runhaven.com/2015/09/28/nike-introducesfabric-adapts-changes-runners-temperature/ • Kooser, Amanda. 2014. Ralph Lauren biometric smart shirt debuts as US Open. [Online] {Date Accessed 31 March 2016] Available from: http://www.cnet.com/uk/news/ralph-lauren-high-tech-biometric-shirtdebuts-at-us-open/ • Brillson, Leila. 2013. From Uggs To Y2K, What The ‘00s Meant To Us. [Online] [Date Accessed 28 March 2016] Available from:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140328105310/http://www.refinery29.com/millennial-trends • UN Department of Economic and Social Affairs, Population Division, 2007. World Population Prospects: The 2006 Revision, Highlights. Working Paper No. ESA/P/WP.202 • The National Archives: Office for National Statistics, 2013. Middle Income Households, 1977-2010/11 [Online] [Date Accessed 31 March 2016] Available from: http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/20160105160709/http://www.ons.gov.uk/ons/dcp171776_30 3386.pdf • Mouwerik, Jesse Van. 2013. From LA to London: Celebrity Influence on Fashion Today. [Online] [Date

Accessed 6 April 2016] Available from: http://upstreamideas.org/from-la-to-london-celebrity-influenceon-fashion-today/ • Fibre2Fashion, Date Unknown. Pop Stars Influencing Fashion Trends. Fibre2fashion.com. [Online] [Date Accessed 4 April 2016] Available from: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6988/pop-starsinfluencing-fashion-trends?page=2 • Skinner, Majorie. 2004. The Most Okay Fashions of 2003; Portland Mercury. [Online] [Date Accessed 4 April 2016] Available from: http://www.portlandmercury.com/portland/the-most-okay-fashions-of2003/Content?oid=30480

19

Figures

• Figure 1. Williams, N. 2012. How To Shoot London Fashion Weekend. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://www.wexphotographic.com/blog/how-to-shoot-london-fashion-weekend • Figure 2: Iannaggi, E. 2016. Fashion Magazine February 2016 Cover: Natalie Dormer. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://www.fashionmagazine.com/fashion/2016/01/04/fashion-magazinefebruary-2016-cover-natalie-dormer/ • Figure 3. Smeal, J. 2001. Queen of the Crop: Stefani’s Ultimate Ad-Baring Looks. [Online] [Date Accessed 22 April 2016] Available from: http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/photogallery/32017060/image/32017083/She-mixed-trends-2001-Teen-Choice-Awards • Figure 4. Parker, A, J. 2014. Jessica Alba: Celebrity Style Evolution. [Online] [Date Accessed 22 April 2016] Available from: http://www.fashionnstyle.com/articles/19612/20140513/jessica-alba-celebrity-styleevolution.htm • Figure 5. First Class Fashion (Photographer Unknown). 2009. Fendi Sprring/Summer 2010 Collection: Milan Fashion Week. [Online] [Date Accessed 22 April 2016] Available from: http://www.firstclassfashionista.com/archives/15451 • Figure 6. Vogue: Styledmonde. (date unknown). The Best Street Style Pics From Fashion Week Russia.

[Online] [Date Accessed 22 2016] Available from: http://www.vogue.com/slideshow/13363264/russiafashion-week-street-style/#20 • Figure 7. Ebay, 2016. A4 Army Green Camouflage Print Icing Sheet Cake Topper Edible Decoration.

[Online] [Date Accessed 22 April 2016] Available from: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A4-Army-Green-

Camouflage-Print-Icing-Sheet-Cake-Topper-Edible-Decoration-/271083157313 • Figure 8. Reuters, (image taken) 2001. 9/11 Attacks In Photos 2015: 15 Iconic Images From Septmber 11, 2001 And Its Aftermath 14 Years Later. [Online] [Date Accessed 22 April 2016] Available from http://www.ibtimes.com/911-attacks-photos-2015-15-iconic-images-september-11-2001-its-aftermath14-years-2091600 • Figure 9. Davin, 2010. Men’s Military Fashion Trend 2010. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: https://devin18.wordpress.com/2010/10/06/mens-military-fashion-trend-2010/ • Figure 10. Fashion Chip (date unknown) Latest Winter Trench Coat Fashion For Women 2014-2015.

[Online] [Date Accessed 22 April 2016] Available from: http://www.fashionchip.com/women-wintertrench-coats-collection/

• Figure 11. Monda (no date). Globalisation: Introduction. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016]

Available from: http://monda.eu/en/modules/globalisation/1 • Figure 12. Didi’s Wardrobe, 2012. Marchesa Spring 2013 Indian Inspired Fashion Show. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.didiswardrobe.com/blog/marchesa-spring-2013indian-inspired-fashion-show/ • Figure 13. Daniielleelias, 2014. Globalisation in the Fashion Industry. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: https://daniielleelias1302468year2.wordpress.com/2014/12/16/globalisationin-the-fashion-industry/

• Figure 14. Bloomberg News, 2015. Marks & Spencer to close five China stores as it reshapes Asian strategy. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/11444219/Marks-andSpencer-to-close-five-China-stores-as-it-reshapes-Asian-strategy.html • Figure 15. McKibbin, K, no date. Kate McKibbin Blogger Interview. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://kaleidoscopedesignstudio.net/kate-mckibbin-blogger-interview/ • Figure 16. America pink (no date). Hip hop fashion: Late 1970s to mid-1980s. [Online] [Date Accessed

23 April 2016] Available from: http://america.pink/hip-hop-fashion_1961544.html • Figure 17. Pinterest, (no date) Simple Grunge Outfit. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/332633122449349312/ • Figure 18. Linleigh. 2015. London Fashion Week’s Social Media Takeover. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://wersm.com/london-fashion-weeks-social-media-takeover/ • Figure 19. Lemuria. 2012. Ethical Design. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.ecofashiontalk.com/2012/01/lemuria/ • Figure 20. Katie. 2012. H&M Sustainability Report. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from> http://timeforheroesdesignmustgogreen.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/h-sustainability-report.html • Figure 21. Chua, J. M. 2010. H&M, Other Brands Guily of “Organic Cotton Fraud”? [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.ecouterre.com/hm-other-brands-guilty-oforganic-cotton-fraud/

21

• Figure 22. Blake, M. 2013. Last survivor of Primark factory collapse in Bangladesh burns to death after rescuers sparked fire with power tools they were using to save her. DailyMail. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2316426/Bangladesh-buildingcollapse-Last-survivor-Primark-factory-collapse-burns-death-rescuers-spark-power-tools-using-saveher.html • Figure 23. Lasercut Works. 2016. Lasercut Pieces from London Fashion Week A/W 2016. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.lasercutworks.com/lasercut-london-fashionweek-2016/ • Figure 24. Mendoza. H. R. 2014, Noa Raviv Shows Off Her Amazing 3D Printed Fashion. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: https://3dprint.com/12682/3d-printing-fashion/

• Figure 25. Nike, 2016. Nike DF Aeroreact Half Zip – Black/Reflective Silver. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.prodirectrunning.com/products/Nike-DF-Aeroreact-Half-ZipMens-Clothing-Black-Reflective-Silver-114770.aspx • Figure 26. Jaclyn. 2012. 2001: A Niki Takesh Odyssey. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://blog.nastygal.com/people/guest-edit/2012/08/2001-a-niki-takesh-odyssey/ • Figure 27. Toriboo151, 2014. Best 90’s/00’s R&B & Hip-Hop Music Videos (Hype Williams). [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5KndLd21mk

• Figure 28. IMBD, 1995. Clueless Film Poster. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0112697/ • Figure 29. British GQ, 2015. Daniel Craig Suits Up As James Bond In ‘Spectre’. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://www.thefashionisto.com/daniel-craig-suits-up-as-james-bond-in-spectre/ • Figure 30. Furness, H. 2015. Downton Abbey code of social conduct inspired by Julian Fellowes’ strict upbringing. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/tvandradio/downton-abbey/12009649/Downton-Abbey-code-of-

social-conduct-inspired-by-Julian-Fellowes-strict-upbringing.html • Figure 31. Elmakias, A. 2016. A Day To Remember’s Self Help Festival Promises. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://radio.com/2016/03/16/self-help-festival-jeremy-mckinnon-a-day-toremember-interview/ • Figure 32. Haberman, L. 2015. Pretty Little Liars Reveals A. [Online] [Accessed 4 May 2016] Available from: http://www.thewrap.com/pretty-little-liars-thewraps-live-blog/

22 • Figure 33. Buzznet (no date). Flashback Fashion: Pop Stars In The 90s. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/562879653399590580/ • Figure 34. Tumblr: Legendtina (no date). 15 Day Xtina Challenge: Day 05. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://mrsqueenxtina.tumblr.com/post/96405136415/15-day-xtinachallenge-day-05-favorite-song • Figure 35. Lehigh University (no date) Kylie Jenner talks bullies on Snapchat. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://vergecampus.com/2015/06/kylie-jenner-talks-bullies-on-snapchat/ • Figure 36. Vogue. 2016. Happy Birthday, Kate Middleton! 9 Gifts for the Duchess of Cambridge. [Online]

[Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.vogue.com/13385603/kate-middletonbirthday-gifts/ • Figure 37. Tumblr (no date) The 1975 Brasil. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://the1975brasil.tumblr.com/ • Figure 38. Martineau, D. 2015. How to Design Fashion Leaflets. [Online] [Date Accessed 23 April 2016] Available from: http://www.kudos-clothing.co.uk/how-to-design-fashion-leaflets/

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