STYLE BOOK - illumist collection - Fall/Winter 2010/2011

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CONTENTS Biography & Design Philosophy................ii PART A : RESEARCH 1.0 Introduction ..........................................2 2.0 Purpose of Study...................................2 3.0 Justification...........................................3 4.0 Methodology.........................................4 5.0 Target Market........................................4

5.1 Demographics...........................5

5.2 Ideal Lifestyle...........................5

5.3 Versatility of Product................5

5.4 Product Performance.................6

5.5 Price Acceptability....................6 6.0 Competitive Analysis............................7

6.1 Competitive Charts ..................7

6.2 Competitive Analysis................8 7.0 Conclusion............................................9 PART B: PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT 8.0 Collection Inspiration..........................11 9.0 Collection Illustrations........................12 10.0 Numbering System............................13 11.0 Summary Line Sheet.........................14 12.0 Technical Drawings...........................15

12.1 - I-OC 1W1V........................16

12.2 - I-LJ V1V5...........................17

12.3 - I-OC 7W5V.........................18

12.4 - I-WD 4S1T.........................19

12.5 - I-KD 7T6C..........................20

12.6 - I-WD 4S3C.........................21

12.7 - I-LS 1C1T...........................22

12.8 - I-LG 5G00 & I-LG 2G00...23 12.9 - I-LS 6C6T & I-LS 3C3T....24

PART C: GARMENT ANALYSIS 13.0 Flow Charts........................................26

13.1 - I-LS 6C6T...........................27

13.2 - I-KD 7T6C..........................28

13.3 - I-OC 7W5V.........................29 14.0 Specifications.....................................30

14.1 - I-LS 6C6T...........................31

14.2 - I-KD 7T6C..........................33

14.3 - I-OC 7W5V.........................35 15.0 Cost Sheets.........................................37

15.1 - I-OC 1W1V.........................38

15.2 - I-LJ V1V5...........................39

15.3 - I-OC 7W5V.........................40

15.4 - I-WD 4S1T.........................41

15.5 - I-KD 7T6C..........................42

15.6 - I-WD 4S3C.........................43

15.7 - I-LS 1C1T..........................44

15.8 - I-LG 5G00 & I-LG 2G00...46

15.9 - I-LS 6C6T & I-LS 3C3T....46 PART D: REFLECTION 16.0 Recommendations for Assembly, 17.0 Recommendations for Change, 18.0 Feasibility for Production............49-51 19.0 Conclusion.......................................52 Works Cited.......................................iii

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Biography :

Living in Ottawa and born to parents from Prague, Czech Republic, Katerina Maly has

become knowledgeable in both North American and European culture. This fuels her creativity which is then directed into her designs. Katerina Maly has been influenced by various artworks from around the world, from Italy, Paris and Spain and has a diploma in Fine Arts after graduating from Canterbury High School. In Ottawa, Katerina Maly has inspired others with her winning designs for the Ottawa Heart Institute Telethon poster as well as organizing and producing various Fashion Shows. To start her career in design, Katerina Maly moved to Toronto and was accepted into Ryerson’s School of Fashion. While residing in Toronto, Katerina Maly has worked with well known womenswear designers Tevrow + Chase and Monica Mei (AIME). Katerina Maly has also assisted in the production of the AIME show for two seasons at Toronto’s LG Fashion Week, and plans on continuing her career in contemporary womenswear design.

Design Philosophy:

Designs by Katerina Maly strive to create beautiful and warm outerwear jackets that can

withstand Canadian winters and promote Canadian fashion. Katerina Maly also focuses on versatile day-to-night dresses, inspired by the technically detailed design features of outerwear jackets.

The inspiration for the illumist collection comes from ‘captured motion’. This describes the fast pace and excitement of light, captured through a camera lens and forever shown as a soft haze of colour and beauty. This theme is conveyed into a versatile womenswear collection which is perfect for the persevering women living the fast pace of everyday life but is still able to be captured with confident femininity and beauty.

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PA R T A : R E S E A R C H

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1.0 Introduction

The capsule collection by Katerina Maly for Fall/Winter 2010 - 2011 is named illumist.

It references the theme ‘captured motion’, in which the key words are speed, surrealism, and sophistication. The illumist collection is a contemporary women’s wear collection targeting young to middle-aged women that work, shop or live in large Metropolitan Areas and have busy, bustling lives. Designers that are similar in target market and style to the collection are Philip Lim, who was praised by Laird Borrelli of Vogue as having “pretty-but-cool clothes that don’t try too hard”(Mayday, 2009, Online), and Alexander Wang who has a “casually cool downtown style”(New York Fashion, 2010, Online). The collection and theme intertwine to create garments that make women feel individual, empowered, and unwavering in their individual and daily life.

The illumist collection focuses on creating garments that are fashionable yet functional for life in dense, crowded and bustling urban centers.

2.0 Purpose of Study

The purpose of the following research study is to identify the aspects of a commercially

successful collection by researching the target market for women’s contemporary high-end outerwear and day-to-night dresses. Studying the needs and wants of the target consumer will strengthen the ideals of the collection and will build on ideas that are still in consideration.

Understanding the specific niche market that the consumer resides in offers valuable insight into the feasibility, design and direction of the collection. The research study will give reference and structure to allow the company to create successful products.

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3.0 Justification

The collection, illumist, will become commercially successful because of the focal objec-

tives that create the identity ‘Katerina Maly’. These objectives are to create garments that are convenient and effortless, accessibly priced, and fashionably functional.

Convenience and effortlessness is significant in the creation of the illumist collection.

Designer and Creative Director of Toronto based ‘Aime’, Monica Mei believes that dresses are always a key item in a collection; they are fast and easy and take the consumer from day to night by adding or removing jackets or accessories. Mei also suggested the use of “vegan leather” and strong bold jackets with soft feminine dresses and skirts (M. Mei, personal communication, Oct. 2009).

A successful commercial collection carefully determines retail price by assessing the type

of garments for the intended targeted consumer. Elisa Kosonen from Flare magazine writes that “One great outerwear piece is the one thing consumers should splurge on” (Kosonen, E. 2009, pg. 42). However, for a fashion forward garment, if the price is right the garment will be very successful with a fashionable crowd, although, classic styles are more commercially successful in the conservative Canadian market. “Classic coats are usually an investment piece, ranging over $1000.00, however focusing on more accessible price points will widen the availability to the customer. As stated by Monica Mei, “consumers enjoy it when the designer is price-friendly and can help them save money” (M. Mei, personal communication, Oct. 2009). However, a designer also has to consider the value of the garment, such as dresses which are easy to wear, so designers often can charge more money for them.

Fashionability versus functionality is constantly a pressing issue in the fashion market.

Designs by Katerina Maly will most prominently focus on the merging of fashion with function

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rather than fashion against function. The functionality of a garment must be to a degree that a woman is able to go from the car to work or subway to work comfortably. It is important that a designer has a great trademark; designs by Katerina Maly will not only be visually recognizable but also functionally pleasing to the consumer.

4.0 Methodology

Preliminary research done for this study, directed at identifying the commercial success

of the capsule collection illumist, established by designer Katerina Maly, was done using verbal primary sources and samples of written secondary sources. The written sources were selected to verify information from the verbal subjects. The verbal sources were selected by similarity in price points of related products, relativity to target market or product, knowledge on target consumer, and/or experience in field. These verbal sources were also selected from different professions to represent the broad base of the industry and induce a more broad understanding of the fashion industry in metropolitan Canada.

5.0 Target Market

The illumist collection is targeted towards a contemporary woman that works, shops or

lives in a large metropolitan area and has a busy bustling life. She is looking for outerwear that is fashionable but still keeps her warm, dry and protected. She believes that her clothes should work for her with the same perseverance that she has with respect to her life and personal goals.

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5.1 Demographics

The illumist woman, age 25 to 45 years, is estimated to have a $65,000-plus salary and

works in positions related to corporate, entertainment, creative, political, and technology. She may live or work in large metropolitan areas and has a busy bustling life. Consequentially she is looking for garments that are fast and easy to fit her lifestyle, and her outfit must take her from day to night or work to party. The illumist woman is persevering and enduring to the hard and busy motion of life in the city, but at any point in time she is captured looking beautiful, fashionable and sophisticated.

5.2 Ideal Lifestyle

The illumist woman shops or lives in large metropolitan areas. Her clothing is unique and

comfortable for life in dense, crowded and bustling urban centers. The consumer’s knowledge on fashionable attire can range between below-average to vastly superior as long as the clothes make them feel individual, empowered and persevering. She believes in purchasing from Canadian or North American companies and is very environmentally conscious and has a sustainable outlook of life and business.

5.3 Versatility of Product

Versatility is an important aspect of the illumist collection. The illumist woman needs

garments that are comfortable to take her from day to night or work to party. Dresses are fast and easy and take the consumer from day to night by adding or removing jackets or accessories. The ability to have the dress transform to which ever event the customer needs provides them with the value of convenience found in the illumist collection. Another important design feature is comfort followed by practicality, such as crease less fabrics. It is important to the consumer that even though the dress is being worn all day, it can be comfortable, versatile and effortless.

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5.4 Product Performance

Fashionability versus functionality is constantly a pressing issue for the illumist woman.

In Canada she is forced to sacrifice warmth for fashion. Designs by ‘Katerina Maly’ focus on the merging of fashion with function rather than fashion against function. The illumist target market prefers fashion over functionality. Warmth and function is second to the style and look of an outerwear coat. The illumist collection will keep functionality to the degree that the garment must be able to get a woman from the car to work or subway to work without freezing. The target market believes that the most important design features in outerwear coats are design and fit.

The fit is important to the consumer because they need to wear the coat everyday and consumers usually spend more on outerwear than other garments so there is a greater investment in a coat. It is also important to note that consumers prefer to buy outerwear that is black or darker in colour because it has to be versatile and match with a variety of outfits.

5.5 Price Acceptability

Retail price point is one of the most important aspects consumers regard. They must

consider the value of the garment compared to the price. The illumist target market values fashion forward garments and is more likely to purchase a new outerwear coat every season. For this reason it is important that the fashion forward garment does not have a price that is too high.

Most consumers in the intended target market will purchase an outerwear coat between the price ranges of $500.00 - $700.00. However, focusing on more accessible price points will widen the availability and attractiveness to the customer. Further research into the price point of outerwear is conducted in the ‘Competitive Analysis’ section on the next page. The retail price point of the day-to-night dresses ranges between $250.00-$350.00.

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6.0 Competitive Analysis

6.1 Competitive Chart: Outerwear

Competitors

Price Range

Fabric

Style & Functionality

Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC)

$100.00-$180.00

Down Coats

Simple Designs/ High Functionality

Wool/ Pleather Coats

Trend Orientated Designs / Low functionality

Urban Outfitters

$138.00-$200.00

Aritzia/ TNA

$300.00-$500.00

Wool/ Pleather Coats

Simple Designs/ Medium Functionality

Canada Goose

$300.00-$600.00

Down Coats

Simple Designs/ High Functionality Classic Intricate Designs / low-Medium Functionality Classic Simple Designs/ Medium Functionality

KATERINA MALY

$500.00-$700.00

Wool/ Pleather Coats

APC

$600.00-$700.00

Wool Coats

$500.00-$800.00

Wool/ leather/ Down Coats

Intricate Designs/ Medium Functionality

Wool Coats

Classic & Intricate Designs/ Medium Functionality

Wool/ Down Coats

Classic Designs/ Medium to High Functionality

Rudsak

3.1 Phillip Lim

Burburry

$900.00-$1500.00

$900.00-$1500.00

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Competitive Chart: Day-to-Night Dresses Style & Functionality Low Innovative Designs / Medium Versatility

Competitors

Price Range

Versatility

Urban Outfitters

$48.00-80.00

Casual Dresses / Dayto-Night Dresses

$98.00-$120.00

Casual Dresses / Dayto-Night Dresses

Low Innovative Designs / Medium Versatility

$230.00-$300.00

Formal/Casual Dresses

Innovative Intricate Designs / Low Versatility

GUESS by Marciano

David Dixon

KATERINA MALY

$250.00-$350.00

Day-to-Night Dresses

Innovative Intricate Designs / High Versatility

3.1 Phillip Lim

$325.00-$600.00

Day-to-Night Dresses

Casual Designs / High Versatility

$380.00-$700.00

Day-to-Night Dresses

Casual Intricate Designs / High Versatility

$1000.00 +

Formal/Casual Dresses

Innovative Intricate Designs / High Versatility

Alexander Wang

Jeremy Laing

6.2 Competitive Analysis

Understanding competition is important to help position ones company into the market-

place. It is also important to know where ones company stands compared to other companies in the industry. Competitive Analysis allows one to see places of overlapping products or where there might be holes in the market place where there is an area of need. The illumist collection

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will be placed in the market by comparing its self to other labels, retailers, and designers in the area of outerwear and ready to wear dresses. Using a Chart format eight competitors have been categorized for outerwear and six for dresses by retail price point, fabric and style/functionality.

The collection illumist by ‘Katerina Maly’ is positioned in a higher price range than trend

orientated companies such as Urban Outfitters and Aritzia because the collection offers fashionable pieces that are not only classic and more intricately made but also have a uniqueness factor that neither of the brand names have. It is also placed lower than many of the high-end designers because assessable price point is very important to the consumer and to a startup company. Studding the previous charts one can conclude that there are selling opportunities for the illumist collection in the mid-price range section of the market, where most of the designers have medium to high functionality and simple designs.

6.0 Conclusion

The illumist collection is offering Classic yet Intricate Designs with low to medium

warmth functionality at an accessible retail price point of $500.00-$700.00 per coat. The illumist collection by ‘Katerina Maly’ is placed at the most accessible price point for an outerwear coat designer with intricate designs. This can be achieving by using information found by the target market analysis which indicated that the illumist consumer prefers fashion to function. Resources can be put into making the outerwear more fashion forward at accessible prices. Understanding not only the consumers need for great design, price accessibility, and fashionably, but also the competitors hold in the marketplace, the illumist collection by designer ‘Katerina Maly’ will be a successful line among the analyzed target market.

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PA R T B : P R O D U C T D E V E L O P M E N T

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8.0 Collection Inspiration

The inspiration for the illumist collection comes from ‘captured motion’. This describes

the fast pace and excitement of light, captured through a camera lens and forever shown as a soft haze of colour and beauty. Bellow is an image of blurred lights in motion and the colours that are associated with them. This theme is conveyed into a versatile womenswear collection through fabrication and conceptually. It is perfect for the persevering women living the fast pace of everyday life but is still able to be captured with confident femininity and beauty.

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9.0 Collection Illustrations

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10.0 Numbering System

I-OC 7W5V Collection Type

Garment Type ur

in

Ma

Garment Type OC LJ

Outerwear Coats Long Sleeve Jackets

lo Co

Fa

Fabrication

y

dar

n eco

S

ur

n

tio

ca bri

lo Co

y dar n n o co Se ricati c Fa

Main Colour

Secondary colour

W

Wool

1000

Black

10

Black

V

Vegan Leather

2000

Charcoal

20

Charcoal

WD

Woven Dresses

S

Satin Polyester

3000

Electric Purple

30

Electric Purple

KD

Knit Dresses

C

Chiffon Silk

4000

Electric Pattern

40

Electric Pattern

T

Tencil Knit

5000

Eggplant Purple

50

Eggplant Purple

G

Legging Fabric

6000

Soft Pink

60

Soft Pink

7000

Beige

70

Beige

00

No Contrast

LS SS LG

Long Sleeve Shirts Short Sleeve Shirts Leggings

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11.0 Summery Line Sheet

Style #: I-OC 1W1V $630.00

Style #:I-LJ V1V5

$350.00

Style #: I-OC 7W5V $580.00

Style #: I-WD 4S1T $530.00

Style #: I-KD 7T6C

$260.00

Style #: I-WD 4S3C

$540.00

Style #: I-LS 1C1T

Style #: I-LG 5G00

$130.00

Style #:I-LS 6C6T

$215.00

$220.00

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12.0 Technical Drawings

Overview:

12.1 - I-OC 1W1V

12.2 - I-LJ V1V5

12.3 - I-OC 7W5V

12.4 - I-WD 4S1T

12.5 - I-KD 7T6C

12.6 - I-WD 4S3C

12.7 - I-LS 1C1T

12.8 - I-LG 5G00 & I-LG 2G00

12.9 - I-LS 6C6T & I-LS 3C3T

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Technical Drawing : 12.1 - I-OC 1W1V

Self

Contrast

Lining

Inter-Lining

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Technical Drawing : 12.2 - I-LJ V1V5

Self

Contrast

Lining

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Technical Drawing : 12.3 - I-OC 7W5V

Self

Contrast

Lining

Inter-Lining

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Technical Drawing : 12.4 - I-WD 4S1T

Self

Contrast

Contrast 2

Lining

20

Technical Drawing : 12.5 - I-KD 7T6C

Self

Contrast

21

Technical Drawing : 12.6 - I-WD 4S3C

Self

Contrast

Lining

22

Technical Drawing : 12.7 - I-LS 1C1T

Self

Contrast

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Technical Drawing : 12.8 - I-LG 5G00 & I-LG 2G00

Self

24

Technical Drawing : 12.9 - I-LS 6C6T & I-LS 3C3T

Self

Contrast

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PA R T C : G A R M E N T A N A LY S I S

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13.0 Flow Charts

Overview:

13.1 - I-LG 5G00 & I-LG 2G00

13.2 - I-KD 7T6C

13.3 - I-OC 7W5V

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Flow Chart : 13.1 - I-LG 5G00 or I-LG 2G00

Pre-Pressing

Sewing

Press the

Waistband in half lengthwise

Sew the inseams of the front pant to the inseam

Cut elastic to 19.5"

Sew the inseam of the BK pant to the in-seam panel at ¼" S.A.

Sew the crotch seam of left side to right side from FR to BK at ¼" S.A.

Cover Seaming

Serging

Waistband

Finishing

Cover seam the FR inseam from the left bottom pant to the crotch and down to the right bottom pant with S.A facing towards the inseam with needles ¼" apart Repeat with the BK

Place the care/content label in the S.S.

Cover seam the crotch seamwith the S.A. facing to the right at

Sew & Serge S.S. with R.S. together at ¼"

Sew & Serge the WB to the body with R.S. together at ¼" S.A.

Sew in the logo& size at the BK of the Fold the WB down & cover seam with needles ¼" apart

Cover seam the pant hems Get Professional Press

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Flow Chart : 13.2 - I-KD 7T6C

Pre-Work

Neck Piece

Torso

Skirt

Serge the Side

Sew the the neck pieces together at CF with a ¼" French Seam.

Press.

Sew the CB together at ¼" S.A. of the Self Torso and the

Tack down Pleats on the S.S. of the self

Serge the self skirt (FR & BK) at the S.S. Repeat with the lining skirt (FR & BK)

Tack 5 button loops into the CB facing of the neck piece 7/8" apart.

Sew facing onto CB neckpiece at

Sew the Neckpiece into the self bodice and lining bodice at ¼" S.A. finishing with a clean finish (follow notches). Press.

Gather under the bust of the self torso pieces; gather Serge Waistline seam of the torso to the torso lining

With R.S. together sew the torso to the elastic WB at ¼"

Skirt Lining

Finishing

With R.S. together sew the S.S. of the FR & BK together at ¼" S.A. Press.

With R.S. together sew SideSKpanel to the skirt ¼"

Edge stitch inside of the SideSKpanel at ⅛" With R.S. together sew the CB seams together at ¼" S.A. & Press.

With R.S. together sew the CB seams of the skirt lining at ¼" S.A.

With R.S. together sew S.S. of the FR & BK lining together at ¼" S.A. Press

Cover seam the armholes with needles ⅛ apart

Cover seam hem of the self skirt with needles ⅛ Serge the waistline seam of apart the skirt to the Repeat with the skirt lining.

Hem of the skirt With R.S. together sew the Sew on Buttons skirt to the elastic WB at ¼" Get Professionally Pressed

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Pre-Work Serge all pieces

Fuse all pieces Fold up cuff on

Tack all lambs wool pieces onto lining

Flow Chart : 13.3 - I-OC 7W5V Pockets

Skirt

Torso

Sew pocket bag to Side Skirt panel at ½ S.A. edge-stitch at ¼".

Sew other pocket bag to pocket facing at ½ S.A. edgeSew pocket bags together together at ½ S.A. Sew pocket facing to FR and side Skirt to BK. Press.

Body

Lining&Finishing

Sew darts on CB Sew CB seams together at ½

Sew CF Panel to Side Panel at ½ S.A. Sew CB Panel together at ½ Sew CB Panel to side Panel at ½ S.A. After pocket is sewn in sew S.S. together at ½

Tack pleats down on Side

Sew Side Panel to CB panel and CF panel. Top Stitch at ¼".

Sew shoulders together at ½ S.A. Sew side sleeve panel to sleeve at ½ S.A. then sew S.S. of Sleeve together

Tack kick pleats together on lining Sew CB seams together at ½ S.A.

Sew Sleeve into Sew underSew S.S. of FR & the body at ½ placket to top BK together at ½ S.A. placket at ¼" S.A. topstitch Sew lining to Sew torso to Facing Pieces at Sew Zipper into WB at ¼" S.A. ½ S.A. placket Sew skirt to WB at ¼" S.A. Sew Lining and Sew Placket and topstitch at Facing to Body Collar to Body ¼"Sew torso to WB at ¼" Finish Hem S.A. Sew skirt Get Professionally Pressed

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14.0 Specifications

Overview:

14.1 - I-LG 5G00 & I-LG 2G00

14.2 - I-KD 7T6C

14.3 - I-OC 7W5V

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Specifications : 14.1 - I-LG 5G00 or I-LG 2G00

Fabrication: Self

Weave Fibre Content Thread Count Fabric Weight Fabric Finish

Knit Weave 67% Acrilic, 33% Wool 110 x 80 Medium none

Cutting Instructions -All components must be cut form the same dye lot -All other pieces cut with the warp running up and down

Fabrication: Contrast Sewing Needle Type Ball Point, Size 10 Inseam, CB & CF> Straight Stitch Inseam, Seam & Stitch CB, CF, Waist> Cover Seam with 2 Type

N/A

needles 1/4" apart S.S.> Safety Serge

Seam and Stitching Thread Serging Thread Buttons Zippers Snaps Elastic/Tape Other

Sketch/Detail

100% polyester 100% polyester N/A N/A N/A 21" long, ½" wide N/A

Fusing -N/A

N/A Lining/Interlining -N/A

10-12 SPI

SPI

Trims/Notions

Front

Back

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Specifications : 14.1 - I-LG 5G00 or I-LG 2G00

I J

SCALE OF MEASUERMENTS A B

Location Inseam S.S. Length

Inches 31½" 42"

C

Waist- Circumference

22¼"

D E

Knee High Hip

4½" 8"

F G H

Low Hip Calf Ankle - Circumference

8¼" 5" 6"

Tol.

Crotch Length:FR-BK

22½"

K L M

FINISHING / SHIPPING Label & Size / Care : CB Waistband / Right S.S. Hanger : Black Pant Hanger Shipping : Folded in half with S.S. Together

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Specifications : 14.2 - I-KD 7T6C

Fabrication: Self

Weave Fibre Content Thread Count Fabric Weight Fabric Finish

1x1 Slub Knit Weave 65% Polester, 35% Rayon 180 x 180 Light-Medium none

Cutting Instructions -All components must be cut form the same dye lot -All pieces cut with the warp running up and down

Fabrication: Contrast Weave Fibre Content Thread Count Fabric Weight Fabric Finish

Sewing

1x1 Plain Weave 100% Silk 180 x 180 Very Light none

10-12 SPI

SPI

Trims/Notions Seam and Stitching Thread Serging Thread Buttons Zippers Snaps Elastic/Tape Other

Needle Type Ball Point, Size 10 All> Straight Stitch Seam & Stitch Armhole, Hem> Cover Seam 1/8" Type Neckline> 1/4 turn turn

Sketch/Detail

100% polyester 100% polyester 5 covered 1/4" wide N/A N/A 37" long, 3" wide N/A

Fusing -N/A

N/A Lining/Interlining -All lining peices are cut with self fabric with warp running up and down

Front

Back

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Specifications : 14.2 - I-KD 7T6C

SCALE OF MEASUERMENTS

I J

Length (CB) Gathered Length(Bust)

K L M

Pleat Placement

39" 1½"

½" ⅛" ⅛" ⅛" ⅛"

A B

Location Bust Waist

Inches 8½" 14"

Tol. ¼" ¼"

C

Hip

18½"

½"

D E

Across Back Yoke Length

12" 9¼"

¼" ¼"

FINISHING / SHIPPING

F G H

Armhole Circumference Length (HSP) Sweep (Relaxed)

18" 36½" 15"

½" ½" ¾"

Label & Size / Care : CB Neck Facing / Right S.S. Hanger : Black Hanger Shipping : Place in Plastic Covering

Cowl Length(Extended)

Neck Width

K.1:

1"K.2:2"

16" 11¾"

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Specifications : 14.3 - I-OC 7W5V

Fabrication: Self

Weave Fibre Content Thread Count Fabric Weight Fabric Finish

1x1 Plain Weave 86% Wool, 14% Cashmere 180 x 180 Heavy none

Fabrication: Contrast Weave Fibre Content Thread Count Fabric Weight Fabric Finish

-All components must be cut form the same dye lot -All Self Pieces must me cut with ONE-WAY fabrication in mind -All other pieces cut with the warp running up and down Sewing

Knit back with PVC face 95% Polyeurothen, 5% polyester N/A Heavy Shine-free, Wrinkled

Seam and Stitching Thread Serging Thread Buttons Zippers Snaps Elastic/Tape Wigan

Needle Type Cloth Point, Size 12 S.S., CB, HEM, > Safety Serge Seam & Stitch Pocket, Yoke> Topstitch 1/4" Type All> Straight Stitch 10-12 SPI

SPI

Trims/Notions

Sketch/Detail

100% polyester 100% polyester N/A Metal Two-Way 26" 1(1") & 4(½") 50" leather tape 0.25 yards

Fusing -All fused pieces shall show no separation between the lamination after 40 launderings Waistband Top Placket Under Placket Cuff Pocket Facing FR&BK Facing

Cutting Instructions

Woven Horse Hair Fusible Woven Soft Black Fusible Woven Soft Black Fusible Woven Horse Hair Fusible Woven Soft Black Fusible Woven Horse Hair Fusible

Lining/Interlining -All lining peices are to be sewn together with 100% lamps wool interlining

Front

Back

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Specifications : 14.3 - I-OC 7W5V

SCALE OF MEASUERMENTS

I J

Sleeve length Neck Width

24½" 10¾"

¼" ⅛"

K L M

Collar Height

3½" 52" 18"

¼" ¾" ½"

A B

Location Length from HPS Bust

Inches 37" 9¼"

Tol. ¼" ¼"

C

Waist

7½"

¼"

D E

Hip Across Back

10" 7"

½" ¼"

FINISHING / SHIPPING

F G H

Dart Depth Zipper length Pocket Depth

⅛" ⅛" ¼"

Label & Size / Care : CB Neck Facing / Right S.S. Hanger : Black Coat Hanger Shipping : Place in Plastic Covering

F.1:

1¼"F.2:2½"

26" 6"

Sweep (Circumference) Armhole Circumference

37

15.0 Cost Sheets

Overview:

15.1 - I-OC 1W1V

15.2 - I-LJ V1V5

15.3 - I-OC 7W5V

15.4 - I-WD 4S1T

15.5 - I-KD 7T6C

15.6 - I-WD 4S3C

15.7 - I-LS 1C1T

15.8 - I-LG 5G00 & I-LG 2G00

15.9 - I-LS 6C6T & I-LS 3C3T

38

Cost Sheet : 15.1 - I-OC 1W1V

PIECE GOODS

quantity

Wool Fabric

Width Fiber Content

$34.99

56"

100% Merino Wool

3/4 m

$4.00 /m

$3.00

56"

95% Polyurethane 5%Polyester

yd

$3.50 /yd

$3.50

60"

50% Wool, 30%Polyester, 20% Rayon King Textiles

1/2 yd

$5.50 /yd

$2.75

24"

80% Polyester & 20% Horse Hair Neveren's Sewing Supplies

m

$2.50 /m

$2.50

58"

100% Polyester

Horse Hair Fusable

1

Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

Total $4.50

Horn Button

1

$4.50 /unit

$4.50

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Wigan

1

$0.25 yd

$0.25

quantity

price

Labor Charges

5 1/2 h

Button Holes

7

holes

$9.95

Total $15.00 /hour

$82.50

$1.50 /hole

$10.50

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

King Textiles

Neveren's Sewing Supplies

SKETCH

$0.75 /unit

subtotal

&

$51.84

6

yd

The Wool House

$5.11

Marblized Buttons

CONSIGNMENT

Source

$14.00 /yd

1

Interlining

Total

2 1/2 yd

Pleather

Kasha Lining

price

$93.00

$1.54 $156.33

$157.50

WHOLESALE PRICE

$315.00

RETAIL PRICE

$630.00

Front

Back

39

Cost Sheet : 15.2 - I-LJ V1V5

PIECE GOODS

quantity

price

Total

Width Fiber Content

Source

Black Pleather

$4.00 /m

$5.00

56"

95% Polyurethane 5%Polyester

&

1 1/4 m

Purple Pleather

$4.00 /m

$2.00

56"

95% Polyurethane 5%Polyester

&

1/2 m

yd

$3.50 /yd

$3.50

60"

50% Wool, 30%Polyester, 20% Rayon King Textiles

1/4 yd

$5.50 /yd

$1.38

24"

80% Polyester & 20% Horse Hair Neveren's Sewing Supplies

Kasha Lining

1

Soft Fusable

Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

$5.11 $16.98

Total

SKETCH

13" Zipper - Two Way

1

$1.75 /unit

$1.75

Slide Closures

2

$0.50 /unit

$1.00

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Belt Buckle

1

$1.75 /unit

$1.75

Gromets

3

$0.25 /unit

$0.75

subtotal

CONSIGNMENT

quantity

price

Labor Charges

4

h

Gromets

3

units

Front

$5.95

Total $15.00 /hour

$60.00

$0.50 /unit

$1.50

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

$61.50

$0.84 $85.27

$87.50

WHOLESALE PRICE

$175.00

RETAIL PRICE

$350.00

Back

King Textiles

King Textiles

40

Cost Sheet : 15.3 - I-OC 7W5V

PIECE GOODS

quantity

price

Width Fiber Content

$24.99

56"

86% Wool, 14% Cashmere King Textiles

m

$4.00 /m

$4.00

56"

95% Polyurethane 5%Polyester

1

yd

$3.50 /yd

$3.50

60"

50% Wool, 30%Polyester, 20% Rayon King Textiles

1

yd

$5.50 /yd

$5.50

24"

80% Polyester & 20% Horse Hair Neveren's Sewing Supplies

3/4 m

$2.50 /m

$1.88

58"

100% Polyester&Adhesive Neveren's Sewing Supplies

m

$2.50 /m

$2.50

56"

100% Polyester

1 1/4 yd

Pleather

1

Kasha Lining Horse Hair Fusable

Soft Fusing

1

Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

$5.11 $47.47

Total

SKETCH

Snap

1

$1.00 /unit

$1.00

Zipper

1

$4.00 /unit

$4.00

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Wigan

1 1/4 in

$0.25 yd

$0.31

subtotal

CONSIGNMENT

quantity

Labor Charges

Source

$20.00 /yd

Wool Fabric

Interlining

Total

6

price h

Front

$6.01

Total $15.00 /hour

$90.00 $0.00

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

$90.00

$1.48 $144.96

$145.00

WHOLESALE PRICE

$290.00

RETAIL PRICE

$580.00

Back

& King Textiles

Neveren's Sewing Supplies

41

Cost Sheet : 15.4 - I-WD 4S1T

PIECE GOODS

quantity

price

Total

Width Fiber Content

Source

M

$6.00 /M

$6.00

60"

93% Polyester, 3% Latex

Downtown Fabrics

Purple Silk

3/4 M

$9.00 /M

$6.75

54"

100% Silk

Shu Shang Textiles

Soft Fusing

1/4 M

$2.50 /M

$0.62

yd

$3.50 /yd

$3.50

Pattern

1

Lining

1

Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

SKETCH

1

$0.75 /unit

$0.75

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Bra Cups

1

$1.50 /unit

$1.50

quantity

Labor Charges

4

price hours

$2.95

Total $15.00 /hour

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

60% Rayon, 30%Bamboo World Sewing

$19.03

Zipper

CONSIGNMENT

60"

$2.16

Total

subtotal

100% Polyester&Adhesive Neveren's Sewing Supplies

58"

$60.00

$60.00

$0.82 $82.80

$85.00

WHOLESALE PRICE

$170.00

RETAIL PRICE

$340.00

Front

Back

42

Cost Sheet : 15.5 - I-KD 7T6C

PIECE GOODS

quantity

Knit Fabric

Total

Width Fiber Content

Source

yd

$5.00 /yd

$10.00

56"

65% Polyester,35% Rayon Fabricland

1/4 m

$9.00 /m

$2.25

56"

100% Silk

2

Chiffon

price

Chu Shang Textiles

$0.00

$0.00

$0.00

$0.00 Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

Elastic

price

27 1/2 /in

$1.03 $13.28

Total

SKETCH

$0.08 /in

$2.29

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Buttons

5

$0.50 /unit

$2.50

subtotal

CONSIGNMENT

quantity

Labor Charges

3

price h

$5.49

Total $15.00 /hour

$45.00 $0.00

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

$45.00

$0.64 $64.41

$65.00

WHOLESALE PRICE

$130.00

RETAIL PRICE

$260.00

Front

Back

43

Cost Sheet : 15.6 - I-WD 4S3C

PIECE GOODS

quantity

price

Total

Width Fiber Content

Source

M

$6.00 /M

$6.00

60"

93% Polyester, 3% Latex

Downtown Fabrics

Purple Silk

3/4 M

$9.00 /M

$6.75

54"

100% Silk

Shu Shang Textiles

Soft Fusing

1/4 M

$2.50 /M

$0.62

58"

100% Polyester&Adhesive Neveren's Sewing Supplies

yd

$3.50 /yd

$3.50

60"

60% Rayon, 30%Bamboo World Sewing

Pattern

1

Lining

1

Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

$2.16 $19.03

Total

SKETCH

Zipper

1

$0.75 /unit

$0.75

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Bra Cups

1

$1.50 /unit

$1.50

subtotal

CONSIGNMENT

quantity

Labor Charges

4

price hours

$2.95

Total $15.00 /hour

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

$60.00

$60.00

$0.82 $82.80

$85.00

WHOLESALE PRICE

$170.00

RETAIL PRICE

$340.00

Front

Back

44

Cost Sheet : 15.7 - I-LS 1C1T

PIECE GOODS

quantity

Knit Fabric

Chiffon

price

Total

Width Fiber Content

1/4 yd

$4.00 /yd

$1.00

56"

100% Tencil Rayon

Chu Shang Textiles

yd

$9.00 /yd

$18.00

56"

100% Silk

Chu Shang Textiles

2

$0.00

$0.00

$0.00

$0.00 Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

$1.03 $20.03

Total

SKETCH

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Buttons

5

$0.50 /unit

$2.50

subtotal

CONSIGNMENT

quantity

Labor Charges

2

Source

price h

Front

$3.20

Total $15.00 /hour

$30.00 $0.00

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

$30.00

$0.53 $53.76

$55.00

WHOLESALE PRICE

$110.00

RETAIL PRICE

$220.00

Back

45

Cost Sheet : 15.8 - I-LG 5G00 & (I-LG 2G00)

PIECE GOODS

quantity

Black Knit

1

price

yd

Total

Width Fiber Content

$7.50 /yd

$7.50

56"

67% Acrilic, 33% Wool

Source

King Textiles

$0.00

$0.00

$0.00

$0.00

Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

20 inches

Elastic

$0.75 $8.24

Total

SKETCH

$0.25 /yd

$0.25

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50 $0.00 $0.00

subtotal

CONSIGNMENT

quantity

Labor Charges

price

1 1/2 h

$0.95

Total $15.00 /hour

$22.50 $0.00

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

WHOLESALE PRICE RETAIL PRICE

$22.50

$0.24 $31.94

$32.50 $65.00 $130.00

Front

Back

46

Cost Sheet : 15.9 - I-LS 6C6T & (I-LS 3C3T)

PIECE GOODS

quantity

Silk Chiffon

price

Total

Width Fiber Content

1 1/2 yd

$9.00 /yd

$13.50

56"

100% Silk

Chu Shang Textiles

1/2 yd

$7.50 /yd

$3.75

58"

100% Tencil Rayon

Chu Shang Textiles

Tencil Knit

$0.00

$0.00

$0.00

Allowance (+10% of piece goods) subtotal

ACCESSORIES

quantity

price

$1.73 $18.98

Total

SKETCH

Buttons

5

$0.50 /unit

$2.50

Care/ Size Label

2

$0.10 /unit

$0.20

LOGO Label

1

$0.50 /unit

$0.50

Front

$0.00 $0.00

subtotal

CONSIGNMENT

quantity

Labor Charges

Source

2

price h

$3.20

Total $15.00 /hour

$30.00 $0.00 Back

subtotal

TOTAL MANUFACTURING COST

Sample Cost

Subtotal ( All Costs) (rounded)

$30.00

$0.52 $52.70

$53.75

WHOLESALE PRICE

$107.50

RETAIL PRICE

$215.00

47

PA R T D : R E F L E C T I O N

48

16.0 Recommendations for Assembly

17.0 Feasibility for Production

18.0 Recommendations for Change

49

I-OC 7W5V

I-LJ 1V5V

I-OC 1W1V

Style Number

Sketch

Recommendations for Assembly • Use a needle for heavy weight fabrics •Note: that the pleather cannot be ironed on directly, use overlaying cloth •For mass production the assebly will be the same

Feasibility of Designs for Production •WB button is expensive, find similar button in bulk or a less expensive copy.

•All Fabrication and Notions will be less expensive during production.

Recommendations for Change •Add waistband to lining pieces.

•Find better buttonhole machine •Remove Last button or add kick pleats

•Note: that the pleather cannot be ironed on directly, use overlaying cloth •Use leather tape to open and lay the seams flat.

•For mass production the assebly will be the same

•All Fabrication and Notions will be less expensive during production •Feasibility of the design is ready for Production

•No Changes Recomended

•Note: that the pleather cannot be ironed on directly, use overlaying cloth •For mass production snaps will be attached to the garment rather than hand sewn on

•All Fabrication and Notions will be less expensive during production •Use leather tape to open and lay the seams flat.

•Offer in a Black Version

•Zipper will be sewn ontop of the underplacket rather than sewn into the underplacket •Snaps should be attached not hand sewn

50

I- WD 4S3C

I-KD 7T6C

I- WD 4S1T

Style Number

Sketch

Recommendations for Assembly •Use the sausaging techinque to clean finish the blouse from the inside •French Seams can be replaced with serging during production

Feasibility of Designs for Production •All Fabrication and Notions will be less expensive during production •Offer in a Black Version

Recommendations for Change •Too many different types of fabrics are in the design, remove the tencil knit and replace with black satin

•French Seams can be replaced with serging during production

•All Fabrication and Notions will be less expensive during production •Offer in a Black Version

•The black elastic is odd with the beige dress, self cover the elastic for theis version and keep the actually elastic for the black version.

•For mass production the lining will be simpler and the cup insets will be tacked inside rather than sewn in as sperate peices

•All Fabrication and Notions will be less expensive during production •Offer in a Black Version

•The bust lining and cup inseats will be made simpler •The fit of the neckline can be fixed • Tape can be used in the bias seams for more suport

51

I-SL 4C4T & I-SL 6C6T I-LG 2G00 & I-LG 5G00

I- LS 1C1T

Style Number

Sketch

Recommendations for Assembly • Use as few seams as possible to cut down the costs of the french seams

Feasibility of Designs Recommendations for Production for Change • Offer in a variety of • Clean Finish the silk colours belt attachment • Offer in full knit version

• Add elastic into the waistband through a small slit in the CB waistband and sew in back up when applying the label

•All Fabrication and Notions will be less expensive during production •Feasibility of the design is ready for Production

• Use as few seams as possible to cut down the costs of the french seams in the silk chiffon

• Offer in a variety of • Continue the shoulder yoke in the colours • Offer in full knit back as well version

• Better research for the fabrication is required, change the self fabric.

52

19.0 Conclusion

The illumist collection, by Katerina Maly, will be commercially successful in aspects of

design, performance and price. The garments in the collection have proven themselves to be acceptable for the target market and only require changes such as, to be available to buyers in more classic colours such as black and to be produced in more versatile fabrics such as knits. However the current garments are perfect for marketing and media expose because they have been photographed and placed in the industry/media show of ‘In Bloom’, the Mass Exoduses show for 2010. Overall the consumer of garments by Katerina Maly will find that they offer outstanding design and function, they prove to be versatile in all aspects of daily life, and most importantly, will fit into the consumer budget making them love the style and the brand.

iii

Works Cited

Mayday. (2009). Phillip Lim Store Opening. Trend Mill, Events. Retrieved

from http://trendmill.com/editorials/1318-phillip-lim-store-opening

New York Media LLC. (2010). Alexander Wang. New York Media LLC, Label

Overview. Retrieved from http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/

designers/bios/alexanderwang/

Kosonen, E. (2009). Fashion News. Flare. Toronto: Vol. 31, Iss. 12; p. 42