Destination • Philippines
A
The island land world
Explore the rich climes of one of the Philippines’ lushest island chains, Palawan, where life is intertwined with nature
From left to right: Tagbanua boy searches for fish in the shallows; Cuyonon children play bamboo tipano flutes at Baragatan Festival
s we sit on the beach on an island night listening to the waves gently lapping the shore, the ground suddenly stirs beside us. A flashlight beam reveals hundreds of tiny green sea turtles hatching and emerging from their nests in the sand. Guided by the moon’s watery reflection, they courageously flop towards the sea, their wobbly legs sometimes giving way beneath them. Only one or two of them will survive until adulthood when, as generations have
the volcanic depths of the Sulu Sea forming coral beds in the bright shallows, wide lagoons where turtles graze on seagrasses and steep walls drop off to the open sea. The reefs cover around 81,000 acres and lie at the heart of the coral triangle, and the centre of global coral diversity. Since it was declared a national park in the late 1980s, making any kind of fishing illegal, Tubbataha has come closer and closer to its pristine natural state. Visitors to the park stay on liveaboard
done before them, they will swim hundreds of miles back here to lay their eggs in the sand where they were born. Palawan, the Philippines’ westernmost province, is a haven for wildlife. It is home to at least 35 endemic and near endemic species of mammals and birds including the Palawan bearcat, Palawan peacock pheasant and Philippine mouse deer, the world’s smallest hoofed animal. Made up of over 1,700 islands scattered between the Sulu and South China Seas, Palawan – also the name of the largest of these islands – could be considered a world in itself; a real-life Narnia. The Tubbataha Reefs are considered by many to be the jewels in Palawan’s crown. Lying around 90 nautical miles east of the main island, these huge coral atolls rise from
boats from which they dive up to three times a day, often including once at night. In Tubbataha’s tranquil mornings, the dawn ripples through lucid water as parrotfish, batfish and small reef sharks meander through the shallows. There are few places in the world where nature is so untouched; every dive is an extraordinary experience. Multi-coloured reef fish dart around corals near the surface while manta and eagle rays glide over the drop-off and strangely graceful hammerhead sharks haunt deeper waters. When the sea lies flat in the late afternoon, spinner dolphins jump and play in the fading light. We move from underwater to underground; Palawan is the location of the world’s longest subterranean river. A short hike from the town of Sabang on Palawan’s west coast lies the mouth of the river, an eight-kilometre channel flowing through a mysterious cave network. The limestone rock formations have been sculpted by water, in some places carving huge, imposing chambers while in others, cavities too small to pass through by boat. Bats and swiftlets occupy these caves and can be heard navigating the darkness using “echolocation” – their calls bouncing off the walls telling them where they are.
WORDS + IMAGES • KATHERINE JACK
To the melodic tunes of bamboo flutes, the Palawans act out tales from their rich history of tribal battles, princesses and fearsome raids by Sulu Sea pirates 90 Etihad Inflight January 2008
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Destination • Philippines
From the underground river, a jungle trail leads back to Sabang. Prehistoric-looking monitor lizards are a common sight along the path that winds its way through the virgin forests. A wander down Sabang’s shoreline brings you to an age-old mangrove swamp. Huge trees tower here, their tangled roots lifting out of the water like the stilts of the fishermen’s houses nearby. Oysters, sea stars, cowries and young fish live among the giant roots and the only sounds disturbing the stillness are the calls of monkeys and birds. Palawan’s wildlife is so captivating that many visitors never notice that the cultures of these islands are equally astonishing.
Palaweños are innately friendly, and their smiles are quick to rub off on those who visit. Their lives are not easy – most earn a meagre living from fishing or subsistence farming – but on the whole people are genuinely happy with the gentle pace of life that the islands offer. Many live scattered in far-flung places but every year at the end of summer, people of all cultures, Muslims and Christians, migrants and indigenous people, travel to Puerto Princesa to join in the Baragatan, the “coming together” festival. This lively celebration encompasses a host of activities from fanciful float parades and beauty contests to painting and photography exhibitions. Pista Y Ang Kageban is a tree-planting festival in the city’s
charcoal dust. To the melodic tunes of bamboo flutes, they act out historic tales tribal battles, princesses and fearsome raids by Sulu Sea pirates. Sometimes the dances tell modern stories such as the plight of
watershed, also held at this time. At Baragatan you can buy native products – intricately woven baskets, colourful floor mats and textiles from nearby islands. There are bountiful supplies of exotic fruits including delectable mangos, wild honey and cashew nuts. The fiesta’s highlight is on the last day when dancers cavort through the streets, their bodies painted indigo or blackened with
are assured a hearty welcome, not to mention a healthy covering of blue powder. Palawan’s minority indigenous groups – the
the Palawan hornbill, an endemic species threatened by habitat loss and hunting. This fiesta tradition emanates from Cuyo, a remote island in the Sulu Sea, where during the last week of August the people colour themselves blue and dance through the town to pay tribute to their patron saint, Augustine. At this time, the usually tranquil island erupts into a vibrant celebration. Cuyo’s isolated location means that it receives few visitors, so those who make the journey to join the fiesta
Batak, Tagbanua and Pala’wan – have their own traditions and celebrations. They are generally shy people living in remote areas so visitors are unlikely to meet with them unless they make special arrangements. They have lived in Palawan for thousands of years
These huge coral atolls rise from the volcanic depths of the Sulu Sea forming coral beds in the bright shallows, wide lagoons where turtles graze on seagrasses, and steep walls drop off to the open sea and their way of life is connected closely to their natural surroundings. Over the centuries, they have accumulated a unique knowledge of medicinal plants and, because of their animistic beliefs, they have a special respect for Palawan’s flora and fauna. As dusk falls on central Palawan’s remote hillsides, you may hear Chinese gongs sounding through the valley. These antiques have been passed down through generations of Tagbanuas, coming long ago from their trade with Chinese junks when they bartered the gongs for sea cucumbers, honey and birds’ nests. These days, the tribal people still scale the islands’ craggy cliffs for the swiftlets’ nests, sold for a fortune to be made into birds’ nest soup, a Chinese delicacy. The Tagbanuas’ intimate local knowledge extends underwater; they are expert fishermen skilled at catching lobsters and octopuses.
Palaweños are innately friendly, and their smiles are quick to rub off on those who visit
From left to right: A baby turtle makes it to the water; Filipino outrigger canoes; Cuyonon boys at fiesta time; Kayangan Lake Following page: Tabon Cave Complex at Quezon in southern Palawan
THE LAST FRONTIER Until about 50 years ago, Palawan was a heavily forested and little known frontier with a tiny population mostly consisting of nomadic indigenous people living in relative harmony with the environment. However, in the years that followed, mining and timber companies arrived, bringing floods of migrant workers and putting considerable pressure on the island group’s land, forests and seas. These developments were recieved with grave concern by local and international environmentalists who determinedly set about saving Palawan from destruction. In 1991, the United Nations declared Palawan a “Biosphere Reserve”, a model of how man should live with nature. The next year, an all-encompassing environmental plan was laid out and laws were introduced to ban logging on the islands entirely. Palawan is now heavily armoured with environmental laws but sometimes even these are not enough to protect it from continuing illegal exploitation. For example, Tubbataha is a national marine park as well as being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it is still threatened by illegal fishermen who persistently adapt their techniques in order to elude the park’s rangers. “It’s an ongoing battle,” says Angelique Songco, Tubbataha’s park manager. “People nowadays seem more and more willing to take risks to get their hands on our precious marine resources.”
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Destination • Philippines Those who are perhaps not prepared for a long hike into the islands’ hills and forests can also experience Palawan’s indigenous cultures at the Pagdiwata Arts Festival, held around Easter every year at Kamarikutan café and gallery in Puerto Princesa City. This weeklong event involves music workshops, performance and visual arts during the day and concerts in the evenings. Around Puerto Princesa itself, tribal products are sold in great variety from ubiquitous rattan weavings to traditional blowguns, still used for hunting. “It’s fantastic when visitors to Palawan are able to absorb the islands’ culture as well as communing with nature,” says Bong Romero, manager of Club Noah, an inspired resort and
underwater rock formations are matched above as forested hillsides rise steeply from the lakeside. Nearby is Barracuda Lake, so named for the resident 1.5 metre fish. The lake is a favourite with divers for its dramatic thermoclines – its fresh and salt water layers are clearly visible, and their temperatures fluctuate between 28 and 38°C. Coron Bay is also well known for its wreck diving. In 1944, American aircraft attacked a Japanese fleet at anchor at the bay. Eighteen vessels were
nature sanctuary in northern Palawan. Their “kelang-banwa” is a new building dedicated to tribal artefacts and indigenous traditions. At Palawan’s northern tip lie the Calamianes – scattered jade islands in a blue topaz sea. Coron Island, a short boat ride from the main town (also called Coron) is the ancestral domain of seafaring Tagbanuas, and it is they who allow visitors access their sacred lakes. Kayangan Lake’s waters are impossibly clear and seem to descend forever. Fantastic
sunk, nine of which have been discovered; these eerie wrecks are now inhabited by fish and corals and offer a truly extraordinary diving experience. Palawan is unforgettable. With striking natural beauty and unique cultures, visitors return over and over again. Only time will tell if the delicate reationship between people and nature can continue on Palawan but, as the young turtles launch themselves into the water for the first time, one can surely hope.
The limestone rock formations have been sculpted by water, in some places carving huge, imposing chambers and in others, cavities too small to navigate by boat
EXPERIENCE PALAWAN FOR SLEEPING: Club Noah Resort Isabelle True to its name, Club Noah is a haven for many kinds of exotic and rare wildlife. Nestled in a beautiful bay on Apulit Island in the north eastern municipality of Taytay, this secluded and luxurious resort is the perfect place to unwind. www.clubnoah.com.ph
FOR NATURE: Tubbataha Reefs National Marine Park The dive season in Tubbataha usually runs from March until June when the sky tends to be clear, the sea flat and underwater visibility between 30 and 45 metres. Visitors stay on liveaboard dive boats for around a week and pay a park conservation fee (around $60) which goes towards protecting the reefs. www.tubbatahareef.org
FOR CULTURE: Culion Island Once upon a time, Culion Island was home to the world’s largest leper colony. Now a lively and pretty island, Culion is the place where doctors developed a cure for the stigmatized disease. A new museum charts the fascinating history of the Culion leper colony and the inspiring and remarkable story of the development of the cure of the disease, with photographs and intriguing mementos. www.culiontourism.com
FOR HISTORY: Tabon Cave At Lipuun Point in southern Palawan, archaeologists discovered what is thought to be the oldest remains of human habitation in Southeast Asia. Their excavations revealed around 55,000 years of Philippine prehistory including ancient burial jars and human fossils. Although most of the artefacts are now at the National Museum in Manila, these caves – scattered high on rocky crags overlooking the sea – are well worth exploring. http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/1860 E T I H A D A I R W AY S F L I E S B E T W E E N A B U D H A B I A N D M A N I L A D A I LY
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