THE AUTOCHTHONOUS ZEST OF LIFE Katherine Marotta
THE AUTOCHTHONOUS ZEST OF LIFE Katherine Marotta
Sardinia has a geographical variety in its environment. As a matter of fact, the island is characterised by wide hills, rocky mountains and plains.
To gain an understanding of the socio-economic landscape of Sardinia, it is essential to consider the role of land distribution. The land is divided up into portions with some inhabitants living in areas close to or within a productive plot of land, and consequently they will be able to cultivate the land more effectively than those who have to travel to plots of land which are located at a distance from their home. Even with the addition of farm machinery and modern cultivation techniques the benefits of living close to the land you cultivate is far preferable both in terms of yield and in quality of life.
Sardinia is the region of Italy with the highest percentage of grassland pastures and permanent pastures. No correspondence between meadows and pastures (as it exists in almost all other regions) makes the breeding in a rational way impossible to develop, and it abandons the fate of the livestock to the trend of the agricultural year and the luck of rainfall.
The preservation of the rural areas and the storage of fodder during climatically unfavourable times are gaining an increasing importance in the economy of the island. This would meet the rising food needs while being an essential element of the autochthonous profile of the hinterland areas.
Despite the prevailing luxurious lifestyle along the eastern coasts of Sardinia, the inner areas of the island evoke ancient memories, scents and habits that survive carved in time, and they reach out to us unaltered. We find this strong identity in the interpersonal relationships, ancient rituals and in the dietary traditions that the hinterland inhabitants continue to protect with rigorous loyalty.
For centuries, the hinterland of this region has found itself in a situation of isolation compared to all the other Italian regions. As a matter of fact, many areas have undergone the absence of main centres of local life that acted as peripheral redistributors of the central cultural life. Moreover, the strongseclusion of local life within the problems of each village hasrepresented elements of a symbiosis between man- environmentmutual respect and shared values. These features can be a great teaching sourcefor nowadays modern and rush societies.
People born in the hinterland areas of Sardinia often grow up with the idea that the professional and economic prospects are not particularly rosy. In fact, it is thought that sooner or later it is necessary to move out in cities. However, for the older generations the attitude was quite different, that is staying in their own plot of land and adapt. This has generated great socio-cultural values. Grandparents are the living demonstration of the importance of the countryside and the role of farms, both for the lifestyle and production of healthy and wholesome food.
Simple country houses are a great proof of the respect and preserve of ancient local traditions from one generation to another. They can often be decorated with wall paintings depicting daily life activities in the fields and farms.
The Phoenicians brought in Sardinia their peculiar traditions including the culinary and cooking methods. Big fire pots with their lids in several shapes and types were used to prepare a wide range of meals especially on ceremonial occasions. For cooking meat, it was expected to use cauldrons once made of bronze, and now of modern steel. This switch has been done for compliance with sanitary laws.
The autochthonous hinterland areas of Sardinia consist on self-sufficiency; people have developed specific tasks such asmaking available stone mills for the local communities. As a matter of fact, developing a durum wheat supply chain is necessary. It brings some benefits such as the preservation ofthe genuineness. The local wheat is ground and processed immediately after being picked-up in autumn. In this way, it keeps its properties unaltered, enhancing its scent and flavour.‘Brundu’is a wheat supply chain coming from a rural area of the island known for its peculiar type of wheat called ‘monococcus’.
Cultivating ancient wheats (especially monococcus), is something that few can do because it requires specific knowledge. The land where the wheat is cultivated plays a fundamental role in the working process. The more the land is pure, the better the product is in terms of quality. Moreover, thanks to the stone grinding, these products keep their characteristics of the raw material. During the year the wheat is safely kept in dry places, such as small Nuraghe, another witness of the ancient civilizations.
A good way to optimize the limited food supply is by recycling stale bread with cheese and meat broth. This old recipe known as “Zuppa Gallurese” (Gallura’s area soup) is the basis of the autochthons diet. Sausages are also prepared and left to dry off in order to be stored and used during the year.
Almost 4 million sheep live in Sardinia, almost half of the entire national heritage. This makes the island one of the world’s areas with the highest sheep density along with some areas of England and Wales. Sardinian countryside areas have been specializing for thousand years in sheep breeding. A large variety of cheese is produced from the obtained milk. Half of the sheep’s milk produced in Italy comes from the hinterland areas of Sardinia.
A millennial old practice is represented by the so called ‘transumanza’ (sheep seasonal migration). Indeed, unlike what is normally done in all intensive breeding systems, this Neolitical nomadic practice (6000 b. C) is still happening nowadays. During the following nuragic civilization (1800-238 b. C) the sheep migration practice further developed by creating resting areas that became the prototype of the first villages. The sheep breeding and migration have been the economy backbone of the most archaic Sardinia. They have maintained some typical features until nowadays in some vanishing areas. The sheep migration phenomenon follows the seasons and the temperature. In the event of an extremely hot summer, as during my stay, the herds are moved towards higher altitudes along rocky uneven paths down to plains in fall.
Another traditional product derived from durum wheat is pasta, the great protagonist on Sardinian tables. There is a wide range of types depending on the shape.
Among the best known are the Malloreddus which are visibly recognizable by their characteristic appearance of a small shell. They are rigorously made by hand with semolina and slightly salted warm water.
Simple but time time-consuming dishes, typical of a poor cuisine made of what was available in the genuine diet.
Besides a genuine diet, living well in these regions with a high autochthonous attitude depends on several elements: the environment, clean air, and psycho-social aspects, such as living within communities that do not marginalize the elderly. On the contrary, they are respected for their rich life experience.
A characteristic element of the nuragic civilization were stone houses used for cooking and browning the meat. These processes were accompanied by sacred rituals before sharing the food.
The myrtle is an evergreen plant that grows wild in a flourishing way in Sardinia with small oval and pointed green leaves. This plant was known by the most ancient civilizations for its extraordinary properties. Moreover, every single partof the plant can be used: myrtle flowers are great for skin care, the berries are the basis of homemade liquors, the leaves are used for infusions and when they dry off they.
Nowadays, the typical Sardinian piglet is considered one of the symbolic dishes of the island. However, until fifty years ago it was a luxury food that only few people could afford. In fact, families who owned pigs at home never killed suckling pigs, as it would mean losing a potential future wealth. Before the arrival of the electric roasting machinery, the traditional cooking of the piglet took place in front of a fire. Dry twigs and fine wood were used to light up the fire. Then more wood was added. Halfway through the cooking, salt was added.
Sardinia has a strong link with the olive tree, traditionally cultivated since remote times. The olives were widely used for the extraction of oil. This product contains excellent characteristics, such as a high concentration of polyphenols and essential fatty acids. These elements are extremely important for a healthy life, therefore they are largely used by the countryside inhabitants.
Wine seems to be an essential ingredient to be consumed in a moderate but constant way in the diet observed by the Sardinian hinterland populations. Consuming the typical red wine known as Cannonau is great for a healthy life. As a matter of fact, it has been demonstrated that this type of wine has a quantity of polyphenols, that is natural antioxidants, between 5 and 10 times greater than in other parts of the world.
According to the Sardinian tradition, the ancient art of confectionary has always been addressed to women. Cakes and pastries marked festive occasions. Sardinia warm climate has resulted in abundance of nectar-producing plant species. The hinterland areas are in fact an ideal place for bees. Thus, it can be considered the Italian region with the highest vocation for high-quality honey production. Honey is largely consumed to make several typical desserts, such as ‘seadas’.
Sardinian hinterland areas, with their cultural richness, challenge the globalization. The rural men work marks the lands’ transformation, stressing their identity and peculiarity. In an era where consumerism pushes towards industrial products, all similar one to another in shape, colour and flavour, this island keeps making local and homemade products. Confectionary skills become art in the most rigorous and accurate respect of tradition. Among them there are monofloral honeys, cerimonial and artistic pies, artisanal pastries and traditional desserts.
Grandparents also play a fundamental role for the new generations to whom they transmit in first person all the culinary traditions, as well as the passion for the land.
Living in a healthy and welcoming environment, characterized by a diet based on local food and by socialization and daily participation in the life of the community where everyone knows and supports each other, contributes to the longevity of the hinterland population.
The “happy ageing� of these hinterland populations can be found in the spiritual field and in the religious faith. This is something that helps and supports the elders. Indeed, faith helps them to be more resilient, emotionally and physically stronger and able to overcome difficult times.
Thanks to the autochthonous lifestyle aspects just analysed, I had the chance to meet and photograph this healthy 100-year-old woman. She is a witness of 4 generations which she has been living with in a cluster of houses in the Sardinian rural countryside. She has been working in the fields since young age. Because of the authenticity of her life based on socialization, local food and Christian faith she has never felt alone.
It is really important to understand that the authentic Sardinia is defined by the working class. It is crucial to overcome the temptation of Sardinian mass media appeal and look deep at the roots of its traditions: aspects and expressions of an historical condition. In Sardinia, this consists both on of isolation and strong bonds with the Mediterranean culture. It is a mix of foreign influences that keeps a specific physiognomy. Sardinia has in fact its own ways of living, characterized by a discontinuity in the outside relationships and in the participation in some European cultural revolutions. This has generated a self-sufficient country worldly known for its autochthonous zest of life.