KATY BETH P o r t f o l i o
C O N T E N T S
By a
Thread
H&M DIFFUSION Sail Back To Me AUSTEN As One
By a Thread Autumn 16
“By a thread” explores the creative yet frustrating practice of fine art by entering the mind of an artist in their studio. With direct emphasis on the emotions and mental illness that comes with the whole production of that piece of art, I have created an A/W 16 collection, which tells the story of this process. Many artists suffer with depression, bipolar disorder, anxiety and drug abuse. Therefore their art is a façade, it is a way for them to release all these feelings but also a way to hide them away. With particular focus of the frustration of creating that final masterpiece, I’ve looked at ways of portraying exasperation into fashion. Deconstruction techniques of fraying, ripping away at the seams and cutouts are ways to convey this idea of losing your mind and deterioration of sense, as well as “Holding on by a thread” The colour palette consists of primary colours, which have been plagued by darkness however the collection showcases brighter hues byhand-painting onto the garments themselves as they act as a blank canvas for the artist to work upon. Using silhouettes and fabrics that replicate that of an artist comfortable within their studio, the collection becomes contemporary with details and print to target towards an independent mid level market. This collection embodies the whole idea of the art studio. Everything is done by hand; hand painted which I feel gives the collection a personal sense and as though you are actually wearing a unique piece of art.
I put my heart a work and have los proc
and soul into my st my mind in the cess
VINCENT VAN GOGH
By A Thread
H&M Diffusion Autumn 16
Taking my main grauate collection ‘By a Thread’, I have diffused it in collaboration with H&M A/ W 16/17. The aim of ‘By a thread’ is to comunicate the emotions of an artist in their studio while going through the creative process. My main collection was aimed at a higher market level than H&M therefore I was able to focus on creating bespoke pieces for individuals. Due to H&M being a high street level market, my screen printing technique became too time consuming and unappropriate for the fast fashion level. Thus I researched into the artwork of Jackson Pollock who uses action painting to create something really unique. The idea behind the action still follows the concept yet reaches a more masculine target market . The faggoting also had to be taken out of the collection as it is not suitable for this target market. Silhouettes have mostly stayed the same yet transformed into menswear. I thought that this would be an interesting view to explore as it is not your typical diffusion and it gives the oppertunity to delve into menswear. There is still the dominating idea of workwear, teamed with comfort to create a unique, fun collection which would sell at this level. The colour palette also goes down the same route as I feel it is suitable for both genders. The fabrics have similar qualities and good value for money but due to market and for menswear, the mohair knit has been taken out as it would not sell.
“THE MODERN ARTIST IS WORKING WITH SPACE AND TIME, AND EXPRESSING HIS FEELINGS
”
RATHER THAN ILLUSTRATING.
JACKSON POLLOCK
OUTFIT 1 & 2
OUTFIT 3 & 4
OUTFIT 5
OUTFIT 6
Sail Back To Me Dover Street Market Autumn 16
Sail Back To Me is a A/ W 16 womenswear collection aimed at a high end level for Dover Street Market in London. The overarching theme explores a sailor’s wife waiting on his return after a stormy night at sea as she is warned by the red sky of morning and rough waves crashing against the rocks. This collection takes inspiration from Lewis Carroll’s poem of Sailor’s wife which engages discussion of romance and wonder if he will ever return. “Familiar tones are in the gale: They ring upon her startled dear; And quick and low she pants the tale That tells of agony and Fear: Still that phantom ship is neigh With an vexed and life like motion, All beneth an angry sky, Rocking on an angry ocean” Rich colours of that red sky of warning reflect upon the sea creating a warm colour palette yet with hints of ocean blue anf bottle green give a cold reminder of the events that passed that night. The garments are inspired by the amourous replationship the couple have and cast off their desire for one another however with that in mind, fashion wraps up warm, protected from the elements. Waxed cottons, treated wools and natural performance fabrics offer great defence, providing sheild and shelter from the wind and rain.
RED SKY AT NIGHT SAILORS DELIGHT, RED SKY IN THE MORNING SAILORS WARNING
Austen
Using commercial trend information, this collection is designed for the mid level high street brand, All Saints. Focusing specifically on the use of colour and print, this collection is for spring Summer 16 is inspired by the story of Pride & Prejudice by the novelist Jane Austen. The themes within this novel, extend love and judgement, there is strong theme of gender injustices present in the 19th century, with particular emphasis on the institution of marriage. In Pride and Prejudice, many women must marry for the sake of financial security and men to produce heirs to their estates. However the main character, Elizabeth Bennet goes against all tradition and rebels against these boundaries for women and insists she will not marry until she finds love. Therefore this collection takes on the views of Elizabeth Bennett and is defiant against stereotypical 19th century expectations for women. Silhouettes are influenced by the costume used in the 2005 film adaptation, which shows the boyish, flat figure of the main character yet contemporised for the consumer of All Saints. Elizabeth appreciates the outdoors, thus the silhouettes express fluidity and voulume with a minimalist quality. All Saints expresses individuality and attitude with an overall dark edge to its clothing and so I feel this collection can run with the these themes of rebellion to a level that entirely conflicts with the traditions and sell to the consumer. I pulled my colour palette from a scene within the film adaptation that shows the realisation of love between Bennet and Darcy as it is a pivital moment within the story. The dark tones of green and blue teamed with hazy neutrals work well together and are cohesive with the theme of the collection The print is derived from the idea of ripping up the marriage proposal and love letters and tearing away from the stereotype therefore becoming an independant woman to find her own love. Fabric choices are derived from what would sell at All Saints, as they have a certain atmosphere within their brand. Leather is very prominent along with cotton, jersey and silks, which also suit the concept.
‘I
am perfectly serious in my refusal. -- You could not make me happy, and I am convinced that I am the last woman in the world who would make you so’
As one
“As one� is a collaboration project with Adidas, campaigning for Sirens of the sea which is a charity compromising of a team of scientists contributing their time and skills to the greater good. Each member specialises in worldwide oceanic and environmental issues, in order to create awareness and to educate the population and raise funds to make our planet a better place but in particular in protecting the Great Barrier Reef. The collection is swimwear designed specifically for the sport of free diving, which urges the importance of eco-friendly materials within the ocean. This idea is generated by the use of Japanese Neoprene, which is a fabric with advanced manufacturing techniques making limestone-based neoprene as opposed to petroleum. Limestone based neoprene is the best eco-friendly option of the 21st Century in terms of wetsuit material. It has superior qualities than normal neoprene, such as ultra low resistance, enhanced comfort, high heat retention, lightweight and high durability. Using Eco friendly printing onto this fabric will furthermore enhance the importance of this message. The print encapsulates the enormity of the Great Barrier Reef by using an aerial image from space that emphasises how essential it is to protect this ecosystem. The goal for the collaboration is to accommodate the demand for a sport garment that will be able to remain durable in the water through active lifestyles, yet still be fashionable bringing function and fashion together. In addition this collection makes a point of protecting the reef and it gives the ocean a voice and on this high platform of Adidas, that voice will not go unheard.
IN COLLABORATION
OUTFITS 1 - 3
OUTFITS 4 - 6
H00124024