Growing up listening to my mum’s favourite artists such as Billy Idol, David Bowie and Siouxsie and The Banshee’s, it’s no surprise that I became the shameless 80’s lover that I am today. (Even if I am a 90’s kid.) The fashion and lifestyle has always fascinated me. And I will admit I am known to play some old school tunes by Blondie or The Smiths every now and again. Is it possible to be stuck in an era before my time? The thing I find hard to accept with my generation and today’s views on fashion is that everyone seems to be so obsessed with social media and money and who can be the coolest with their latest smart phone or designer bag. I think we have lost sight of what it means to be part of a community. We’re surrounded by so
much negative competition that it has become socially acceptable to judge people on anything and everything. The fashion industry, particularly magazines, has played a big part in influencing the opinions of young people, from their own body image to how they view other people. Fashion used to express young people’s viewsand passion, rather than being used as a negative tool to rank peoples status in society. It doesn’t help that we are in a generation of ‘fast fashion’. High street stores are spouting out line after line of cheaply manufactured, generic clothing. And how could we resist? Most of us aren’t in the financial position to turn our noses up to such good a bargain. So maybe that explains our lack of care of individuality and imagination when it comes to our clothing.
What happened to having fun? Dressing up in crazy outfits just because we want to? Making a statement? Before the fast paced and high demand lifestyles of today, young people used fashion to show their support or opposition to a cause or movement. Nowadays fashion and all of those wrapped up in it (myself included) seem to have far more shallow values. People don’t seem to care about what’s going on in the world and cover up issues with materialistic items. Great for the retail industry but is this really how we want to allow future generations to grow up? Fashion and similar industries aren’t the only ones to blame for young people’s views and outlook on life. However, if people in the fashion industry send out a positive message
to young people and use their power to create a statement or change, the masses of fashion lovers and loyal followers would surely begin to see there is more than just money and status behind it all. A few months ago I visited the Club to Catwalk exhibition, which has been held at the V&A since the 10th July 2013-16th February. Needless to say I wasn’t disappointed. My first thought was where have these clothes come from and why aren’t we seeing more of them around now? The over the top jackets, eye-catching slogan t-shirts and oversized jumpers worn with dresses. It captured everything I loved about fashion and the whole atmosphere of the event made me even more nostalgic.
Katharine Hamnett, whose work was featured in the exhibition, is possibly one of the most well-known and influential designers of the 1980’s, most credited for her political slogan t-shirts and ethical design philosophy. “Everything has to have a reason for being, everything has to have a story. The objective is to produce product which is the best in the world: best supply chain, best social, environmental, cultural impact, and for the good of all living things.”
Early 80’s attitude was about doing what you wanted and not caring about the consequences, the more shocking the better. Back then there was a sense of fun to fashion; it was something new and exciting. It gave people something to look forward to and young people wanted to work hard to save. Boys could look like girls, girls could look like boys. Anything was both acceptable and possible.
One key factor that affected young people’s attitude to fashion in the 80’s was that unemployment was high, peo-Katharine Hamnett ple were angry. People were rebellious. The ‘skinhead’ look was the definition ‘Using fashion to make a better of this. The Doc Martens, rolled up world.’ jeans and Ben Sherman shirts. It can be perceived as quite an intimidating She introduced ‘new fashion trends, look, even 30 years on. But it was effeccreating new fabrics and inventing new tive and they made a statement. They technical pro- cesses, as well as using weren’t happy with how things were excess media attention to campaign being run and wanted to rebel; they did on political, environmental and social this through their attitude, behaviour issues.’ and more importantly-fashion. This is brilliantly portrayed in the film This is There was an element of idealism in the England, created by Shane Meadows. 80’s and I applaud Katharine Hamnett Don’t get me wrong I’m not suggesting for using her talent and power in the we all go rioting and fighting in the industry to try and create a positive streets, but why not get out of this bubchange. The concept behind her work ble we’re all living in where everyone is inspiring and one that appears to is following the crowd and buying the be lacking in the modern day fashion latest piece of clothing they have just industry. spotted on Instagram. A little imagination never hurt anyone.
Ironically, I’m not the most ‘out-there’ person with my fashion choices, but I think it’s the message behind the clothes that matters the most. You can put on the most simplistic of outfits that still have a voice, which is the message that Katharine Hamnett was also trying to get across. Fashion has and always will play a huge part in society. Different people use it for different reasons, some use it as a way to express their personalities, or wear them as a mask to hide their true self or enhance it or they can be used to send a message of rebellion, which is great as long as we’re using it to say something. There was a change in attitude in the 80’s which has progressed in today’s society. People were determined to get where and what they wanted in life in whatever way was necessary. People
began to take out mortgages, and cars on finance. Everything was possible on credit. In hindsight maybe this wasn’t the best way to go about it and perhaps this triggered a phenomenon of splashing out on unnecessary materialistic products. This had caused a change in the working environment too. Work clothing was all about power dressing, smart suits for men and women. Gone were the days of women in corsets and petticoats. If they could do a man’s job they could sure wear men’s clothes too (and far more fashionably in some cases) Women wore trouser suits with ties as well and it was expected and accepted that people wore them out after work too, it was the era of the wine bar.
Fashion had to an extent caused more equality between men and women, at work and outside of it. We have seen elements of this reappear in more recent years with high end designers using androgynous looking men and women to model their clothing at catwalk shows and in magazines. Maybe the 80’s is making a revival after all? As much as I have put down today’s society and the fashion industry, I have to contradict myself and admit there is no denying I still am and always will be obsessed with clothes, new or old. But I am hopeful that
one day fashion will once again be celebrated for having substance and meaning as well as being completely amazing and of course completely necessary to us all, whether we like to admit it or not. Let’s not try to BE something, let us just BE.
Bibliography D. Scott-Stewart (1980)
http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/444105/dick-scott-stewart-a-group-of-skinheads-c-1980 http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/444103/dick-scott-stewart-a-man-and-two-women-in-a-club-dressed-as-new-romantics-c-1980 http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/444105/dick-scott-stewart-a-group-of-skinheads-c-1980
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http://mynxiiwhite.buzznet.com/photos/editavilkeviciuteroc/?id=68500085
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http://www.vintageheirloom.com/blog/2013/10/influential-80s-fashion-designers/