Anthropologie: UK Brand Equity Analysis and Strategic Recommendations

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6) Macro-environmental Analysisxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

6.1) UK Market Overview: A Branding Perspective Despite ending in the last quarter of 2009 (The Economist, 2010), the severe economic downturn and its consequences, both financial and socio-cultural, still strongly impact businesses operating within the UK market: Fig.1) UK Market 2011 Overview

Squeezed household finances due to e.g. budget cuts, tax credit decrease leading to restrained spending habits and consideration of actual necessity and sustainability of the purchase. Heavy price comparison and looking for bargains (Mintel, 2010b)

3-4 years of a week demand for goods and services due to a limited market growth (Mintel, 2010)

Growing consciousness of sustainability and green issues (Mintel, 2010a), leading to a trend for upcycling, nostalgia for vintage within the mass market (Greene, 2008)

Businesses in the UK Market

Weak Sterling attracts foreign customers.

Mobile, online and social media technologies drives businesses to use the Internet not only as a key distribution channel but a key source of information exchange with and between customers (Manccinni, 2010)

As can be clearly seen from the UK market overview, a combination of factors affecting business – especially through impact on customer spending and its patterns – strongly affects fashion retail. Despite 1.4% growth during 2009, customers – predominantly women – are planning spending cuts on clothing in order to deal with an aftermath of the recession, making it the most neglected category on the purchase list (Mintel, 2010a). This also leads to a difficulty in establishing a strong position for new entrants to the market due to low level of customer experimentation with new brands (Mintel, 2010).


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6.2) Key Factors Affecting Premium Mid-Market Women’s Fashion Retail Industry and Their Strategic Implications Despite a general weak spending trend in the clothing sector, the Premium High Street market for Womenswear remains buoyant and more resilient to current economic environment (Mintel, 2010b). Despite cutting spending on apparel, 32% of affluent women between 20’s and mid 40’s – especially in London and the South East – choose premium niche or aspirational lifestyle brands as they look for durability and expression of individual style rather than latest, seasonal fashions (Mintel, 2010c and 2010). However, as women are less influenced by branding and focused on the core product, they mainly focus on purchasing expensive garments for social and professional occasions (Mintel, 2010c). This clearly shows a strong impact of bargaining power of buyers on retailers. Fig.2) Key reason’s for choice of premium brands among UK female shoppers

Innovative product, significantly different to mid-market offer + good value based on quality fabrics, cuts, comfort and expression of individual style rather than the latest trends (Mintel, 2010c; Leroux 2010)

Inspirational and memorable (Mintel, 2010d)

Premium Brand Successful Among UK Female Shoppers

Personalized, feel-good expereince and endorsement via media coverage as long as intial product criteria is fulfiled (Mintel, 2010 c)

Authentic and targeting a specific lifestyle group (Mintel, 2010d)


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The competitive threat for the premium brands on the UK market comes both from the local midmarket, as majority of shoppers admits to trading down, unaffected by branding, if there is little product difference, as well as entrance of a large number of European premium brands (e.g. Zadig & Voltaire, Maje, Loft Design by‌, Pinko) with strong niche target segments and appeal of offering an aesthetic alternative to a quite a homogenous UK high-street. Simultaneously, a high level of competition, for both brand loyalty and increase in market share, occurs between premium brands strongly established on the UK market exercised through: !

Investment in product development and attention to detail expressed in well-edited and clear to understand ranges (e.g. Whistles, Jigsaw)

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Broadening market share through brand extensions (e.g. Jaeger, Hobbs)

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Ensuring media presence and value enhancement through innovative talking points; building online communities around the brand; as well as a strongly integrated marketing mix strengthening expressing the brand identity and the brand equity (e.g. Reiss, Ted Baker)


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

6.3) Anthropologie Relevant Trend Forecasts

6.3a) Aesthetic Trend Forecasts (Trendhunter, 2010) Fig.3) Aesthetic Trends – Anthropologie Relevant

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6.3b) Branding Trend Forecasts (Trendhunter, 2010) !

Augmented Reality Shopping: a growing trend for taking the shopping experience beyond the store environment (e.g. interactive retail websites, packaging as artwork, fitting room simulators, product placement within urban environment, unusual vending machines (e.g. with cosmetics) )

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Minimalistic Branding: customers shying away from visible labels (e.g. no logo products form recognizable brands)

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Brand Lifestyle Enhacing Apps


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7) Anthropologie and Its’ Target Market: Customer Analysisxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

7.1) Anthropologie’s Target Segment Profile Anthropologie, as outlined by the CEO Glen Senk, sees itself as targeting a very niche lifestyle and attitude connected target segment (Table 7.1) – currently best personified by the Julia Roberts character in the movie ‘Eat, Pray, Love’.

KATHERINE ASHBROOKE

Table 7.1 Athropologie’s Target Customer’s Pen Portrait (Labarre, 2002)

28 - 35 years old White Middle class background University educated with a Phd or at least Masters Combining a career as university lecturer with a family life including 2 young children Married and living in a family house in a trendy suburb (in London e.g. Muswell Hill, Putney, Chiswick) Rather affluent with an annual family income of £100,000, however not materialistic With regards to clothing, while she has a strong awareness of trends, she is more likely to make purchases that allow cultivation of her individual style and often ‘bobo’ taste Well-red and deeply interested in culture, she enjoys finding out about exotic cultures/ destinations and is quick to pick up on references to foreign destinations, film, literature and music in brands’ communication While home is her passion, she sees herself as a stylish domestic goddess rather than a suburban housewife; She enjoys wine, cooking and gardening; She sees herself as rather independent and rebellious against the middle class norms and therefore surrounds herself with objects that remind her of exoticism and make everyday life more unusual and express her curiosity in things outside her daily life


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Fig.4) Anthropologies’ Desired Target Customer Visual Pen Portrait

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However, research (Appendix 1) suggests that 2 slightly varied customer profiles emerge on the UK/ European market. In-store observation suggests a much older customer (Fig.2), while online research has a different outcome.

Fig.5) Visual Pen-Portrait of an In-Store Customer


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7.2) Anthropologie – Target Market Analysis As can be seen from Fig.3, current Anthropologie’s UK in-store customer has a similar profile to their perceived target market, however is at a different life-stage and much older than expected, which requires ensuring the right in-store marketing mix for that age group. Fig.6) Implications of targeting over 45’s

Prefer brands that directly communicat e with their age group rather than younger customer (Mintel, 2010d)

Responsive to environmental, cultural and political activism, as well as hedonistic imagery (Kotler et al, 2009)

The most bohemian and relaxed style among UK consumer groups (Mintel, 2010d)

The fastest growing in the UK (Mintel, 2010d)

The Over 45's Market (UK)

Attached to preffered fashion aesthetic, other key consideratio ns are good cut and lasting quality (Mintel, 2010d) 81% active on social networks and use online for both consumer research and purchases (Mintel, 2010d)

A key group among those buying into the premium market and looking for personal indulgences (Mintel, 2010d)

Keen on social life, culture and new expereinces but strongly affected by convenience factor (Mintel, 2010d)


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While this is a profitable market (Mintel, 2010d), due to preference for premium brands and not many UK premium brands catering directly to their needs, the sales potential within it is not enough to ensure Anthropologie’s success. Firstly, it leaves a large age gap in URBN Inc brand portfolio, as Urban Outfitters focuses on the 18-25 age group. Secondly, while the online customers feel that the pen portrait represents them rather well, however often on much lower income and rarely based in London, they can’t afford a true Anthropologie experience either due to Price or Time/ Travel Issues. The urban based age group of 28 – 35, Anthropologie’s desired target market, is the key consumer group to set trends and drive consumption for the new decade (Trendwatching, 2011). They are a steadily growing group, on average wealthier and willing to spend more on aestheticizing their lives (culture, art, fashion, design) (Trendwatching, 2011). The above consumer group is key to Anthropologie as they’re keen to (Trendwatching, 2011): !

Experiment with new, niche brands, especially ones that clearly reflect their lifestyle and values, are experiential and interactive

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Despite being extremely active online, they appreciate unique real-life experiences (drive in-store traffic)

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Pay premium for products that are eco-friendly, not mass-produced

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Look to pay premium to escape the noise and traffic in unusual urban settings

While the 28-35 age group ought to become a priority focus as a target market, the older customer enjoys lifestyle inspirations from the younger and makes consumer choices ‘ younger’ than her actual age. She’s also a member of a similar lifestyle niche group, therefore with the right brand strategy shouldn’t be alienated.


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There are some key similarities among both customer groups that ought to be taken into consideration. Similarities in behavioural data of majority of both customer groups show the key issues in the brand’s relationship with customers: User rate: Majority makes often visits to Anthropologie, but rarely making purchases due to not finding products that entices them to make a purchase. User occasion: Searching for both fashion and homeware but only purchasing small accessories and small homeware items. Second largest group were the buyers of special occasion garments as luxurious, one-off personal treats. Brand loyalty: None has claimed to make the same amount or more purchases from Anthropologie than from the competitors. Benefits sought: Quality fabric, good fit/ well tailored, comfort, uniqueness/ exclusivity of the garment (non mainstream), expression of individual style through both the garment and brand identity, and unusual shopping experience. The key motivations for shopping at Anthropologie: Need to reinforce an aspirational selfimage/ role-play; personal stimulation and need of experience, and self-reward with a purchase of unique garment.


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8) Anthropologie: Brand Self-Analysisxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

! 8.1) Anthropologie: Performance of the Brand on the UK Market Analysis The UK Anthropologie stores accounted for only 0.3% of the Urban Outfitters Inc. net retail sales for 1st three quarters of 2010 (Anthropologie, 2010a), which at $ 58, 135 is a negligible amount. While other figures are not publicly available, this figure alone indicates that the UK sites are loss making for more significant reasons than competition from small independent boutiques and strong interest in vintage garments in the UK, as suggested by Anthropologie management (Anthropologie, 2010a).


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8.2) Anthropologie: The Brand Identity Make-Up (Desired) Core Identity

Positioning: Anthropologie is an innovative premium women’s lifestyle retailer. User profile: Anthropologie’s customer is a sophisticated, soulful and individualist urban bohemian with passion for finer things in life, art and culture. She dreams of exoticism but appreciates innovation, unique design and sincerity. (Labarre, 2002; Anthropologie, 2010) Enhancing Lives: Anthropologie is a connection to not only customers’ associative lifestyle but offers escapist environment from everyday and inspiration. (Anthropologie, 2010) Product: Anthropologie brings a product – womenswear, accessories, homeware, and concept gifts - driven mainly by the customers lifestyle and preferred aesthetic, with focus on fine-craftsmanship, attention to detail and individualism. The product reflects customers’ desires. (Anthropologie, 2010) Extended Identity

Brand Personality: Anthropologie is sophisticated and charming, exciting in spirited and imaginative manner and always sincere as to them customer are ‘soulmates’. (Manning-Schaffell, 2009) Basis for Relationship: Anthropologie understands the complexities of their customer lifestyle/ personality and always has the customer in mind when building the brand, therefore they are able to offer a connection to the customers ideal world, an escape from everyday. (Anthropologie, 2010) Anthropologie is like a friend to its’ customers. (Manning-Schaffel, 2009) Service Environment: One-of-a-kind, Compelling, Unimagined Experience (Anthropologie, 2010) Organizational Associations: Always trying to understand the customer better and offer a personalized experience. (Anthropologie, 2010) A global brand bringing innovation, culture and art to retail. Corporate Social Responsibility: supporting cultural and environmental activism through ensuring support for causes, artists, independent and local craft, being eco-friendly.


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Value Proposition

Functional Benefits: Quality product made with fine craftsmanship and attention to detail and fit for customer lifestyle and desires. (Anthropologie, 2010) Emotional Benefits: Anthropologie makes the customer feel beautiful, hopeful and connected to their lifestyle and desires, while allowing them to become an explorer and escape the everyday (Anthropologie, 2010). Self-expressive Benefits: The brand is a mirror of their customer – their lifestyle and desires – and therefore an extension of self-image.


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8.3) Comparison of Brand Identity and Brand Image, Awareness and Relationship

8.3a) Brand Image The unique associations with the brand on the UK market strongly reflect the desired brand identity. The brand, when mentioned to customers, has strong associations. It is clearly likeable. However, the brand performance impacts its’ image in a negative manner. Especially apparel design, styling, features and price lead to associations with average perceived quality and being overpriced. This is also induced through problems with adaptability from the US market due to international price transparency. 8.3b) Brand Awareness Awareness of Anthropologie on the UK market remains medium to low. The brand has a poor recall and medium recognition– the brand has not once been named as one of first 3 bohemian women’s lifestyle brands coming first to customer minds, and rarely immediately associated with a brief description of the brand identity. The brand has strong issues with memorability, not as a brand in general but rather as a brand active on the UK market. 8.3c) Brand Relationship While majority of customers know the brand from the US market, they often find it highly meaningful. They have both attitudinal attachement and sense of community with respect to the brand, as majority believes that the brand identity reflects their aspirational lifestyle and ideal selfconcept. The customer’s want to be the Anthropologie girl who lives in Anthropologie world. However, as they claim to be not very aware of the brand’s activity on the UK market, the customer’s are not actively engaded with the brand. They also claim not to have a strong loyalty, making the same amount or less purchases from Anthropologie than from other brands of a similar identity.


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8.4) The Consistency Of The Brand Identity - Management and Generation Through Brand Behaviour and Competencies Analysis

8.4a) The Brand Concept – Metaphors in Visual Communication, Heritage Brand Name Anthropologie, French for the study of humanity, reflects not only sophistication as part of brand personality and links to culture but also brands organizational skill to deeply understand the customer – their lifestyle, motivations and desire.

Brand Logo Fig.7) Anthropologie Logo

While typography reinforces sophistication as brand personality, the doodle-like graphics express the brands capability to create a personal and individual approach to the customer, as well as brand’s offering of craftsmanship rather than mass production.

Heritage Despite its’ American origin the brand doesn’t play up on its heritage in an attempt to be associated with European sophistication. Using a French name and hiring French creative collaborators, Anthropologie attempts to express large affiliation with France.


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Brand Colors While there is a multitude of colors used in brands visual communication in order to express the complexity of the customers’ bohemian and exotic aesthetic, 2 key color palettes are typical to the brand. Dusty Pastels – reinforcing the feminine sophistication and whimsical Fig.8) Anthropologie’s Dusty Pastels

Saturated Yet Muted Earthy Colours – bringing to mind exotic travels, and faded colours of vintage, these reinforce the cultural, bohemian and escapist aspects of the brand. Fig.9) Anthropologie’s Saturated Yet Muted Earthy Colours


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8.4b) Brand Identity -Visual & Sensory Communication Within The 7 P’s Of Marketing Mix Physical Evidence – Service Environment The brands stores are key to generating and managing the brand’s identity. Fig.10) Anthropologie UK Stores – Visual Representation

Brand Identity Communication within non-visual elements of 7 p’s of marketing mix

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Table 8.1) Store Environment Expression of The Brand Identity STORE ENVIRONMENT EXPRESSION OF THE BRAND IDENTITY Positioning:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Specific attention to a large number of visual elements and large retail spaces directly translate to premium market positioning, while unusual features – e.g. green living wall, contemporary art displayed within the merchandise – position company as innovative and differentiate from the competition. Arranging the retail space into different rooms – e.g. bedroom, dining room – with use of sophisticated vintage furniture as fixtures and displays, expresses the women’s lifestyle retailer positioning. Despite such attention to detail with regards to visual merchandising, the in-store presentation of one type merchandise, clothing, seems extremely unattended with regards to this activity. Fig.11) Clothing Presentation Issues (Kings Road Store – Early in the day; Not on a busy day)

Not only lack of attention to detail (e.g. poor steaming, folding, hanging of the garments) acts as a negative differentiator and impacts the perceived quality of the garment and perception of premium positioning, but also whole rails with just basic garments that don’t enjoy the raised perceived


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quality of being displayed with better and best garments. Also, while some focus has been given to highlighting the key merchandise, such a broad product scope introduces visual clutter leading to a possibility of overlooking sought after garments. User Profile:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx The eclectic mixture of art objects, beautiful objects of everyday use, fabrics and decorations of various textures, cultural origin (e.g. France, India, China) and time origin (e.g. 50’s inspired, 19th century inspired), create an environment fit for relating to all aspects of the complex user profile. Enhancing Lives:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Turning window displays and in-store displays into art installations rather than pure product showcase well fits with the inspirational part of the brand identity, while the free-flowing store layout introduces and exploratory, escapist experience rather than just a shopping trip. Brand Personality:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sophistication is expressed mainly in feminine elements of the décor such as macaroons, use of dark wood and lace, vintage French display cabinets and hat stands as fixtures, as well as use of both contemporary and antique artworks within the store environment. Anthropologie shows itself as exciting and imaginative through creating a polysensual experience, impacting the customer not only visually but also through exotic smells, tranquil feminine and nonchart jazz music, and impacting on touch mixing various textures within one part of the display (e.g. sanded wood, shantung fabric, glass beads). The brands sincerity is translated through creating a homely environment – with the use of sofas, beds – as if the customer was invited to someone’s home. Basis for Relationship:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Personalized experience occurs on the basis of entering a very directional sensory world targeted specifically at the chosen lifestyle group, which is reinforced by the visual elements suggesting visiting a home of someone who embodies that lifestyle. While in reality customer is never surrounded by just their aesthetic in reality, the environment becomes an escapist oasis for those looking to connect with their inner self. Organizational Associations:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx As outlined above the store environment conveys deep understanding of targeted lifestyle group, while the overall combination of visual elements portraits the brand as innovative and differentiates it from other premium retailers. Emotional Benefits:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx The eclectic, feminine and slightly surreal – through innovative elements of the décor – environment creates both an escapist environment, as well as offers a taste of customer ideal lifestyle, connecting them to their closest associative group.


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Self-expressive Benefits:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx The applied aesthetic is well suited to mirror customers inclination towards ‘bohemian yet innovative’ self-image. The same principles, as in the store environment, of creating visual expression of the brand have been applied to the brand’s second sales channel: the catalogue, making it a crucial source of expressing the brands visual identity. However, low availability in the UK is a key issue in reinforcing the brand identity. Fig.12) Anthropologie Catalogue’s Visual Representation


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The third sales channel – the UK website – despite being clear and easy to use doesn’t, does not visually convey the individualistic, eclectic, culture-led, escapist, bohemian yet innovative imagery crucial to the brand identity. The subtle photography and illustration express the brand’s feminine sophistication and premium lifestyle positioning, while certain element of graphic design and typography become an equivalent of the bohemian nostalgia created by the vintage furniture instore. The visual format of the website, as well as lack of interactive features – such as videos, look books, fails to translate the exploratory, escapist, polysensual Anthropologie experience. Fig.13) Anthropologie UK Website Visual Representation


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Product The visual aspect of the core product, within the best price range, often communicates the brand identity, points of differentiation and upmarket positioning well. This can be observed not only in innovative design and bohemian aesthetic, but also unusual product design features, material quality and fine craftsmanship, which are created to make the customer feel beautiful yet individual. Fig.14) Visual Examples of Core Product Within The Best Price Range

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However, these products, often placed with beyond premium mid-market price range (e.g. bracelet £328, dress £350), might force customers looking to buy into premium ranges to focus mainly on better and basic price range. While the better and basic level garments create an eclectic mix and carry the bohemian aesthetic, due to similarity – or in fact in some cases being the same product – to mid-market high street offer available at lower prices, they defy the concept of individualism, sophistication and design innovation, as well as prevent the brand from being seen as sincere in creating of-of-a-kind experience for the customer. Simultaneously, visible poor quality of fabrics and lack of finish quality (e.g. loose buttons, fraying fabrics) on these non-best products, especially with regards to clothing and accessories, lower the premium positioning of the brand. Fig.15) Visual Examples of Core Product Within Better and Basic Price Range


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Fig.16) Examples of Comparison of Anthropologie Better And Best Product With Mid-Market Retailers’ Product

The visual communication of the augumented product is mainly communicated through packaging, which is a point of parity with majority of premium retailers, differentiated only by a placement of the brand logo as only expression of brand identity as premium, feminine, sophisticated and individualist. Fig.17) Anthropologie Packaging


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Promotion The brands visual promotion communication relays on the catalogue and look books, available in print and via Facebook page, which all use a mixture of photography, graphic design and typography. Similarly to the store environment, these communicate all aspects of brand identity: create an impression of an escapist yet urban bohemian lifestyle the target market aspires to, using exiting innovative concepts of product showcasing, inspiring to visit new places and discover new artists and appearing as sincerely creating a personal dialogue with the customer through hand-written messages. Fig.18) Look Books’ Visual Representation


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In addition, if only rarely, Anthropologie uses videos – placed on the Facebook Fan Page – presenting the process of the brand’s collaboration with niche artist (e.g. Nathalie Lete) and brands (e.g. Le Labo) and reinforcing the concept of a brand supporting individualism, fine craftsmanship, innovation and cultural sophistication. Fig.19) Anthropologie’s Collaboration Videos Visual Representation

Additional visual promotional materials include personalised birthday cards, reinforcing the concept of a bohemian brand-friend. Fig.20) Anthropologie Personalised Birthday Card


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8.4c) The Brand Identity Expression In Non-Visual Elements Of The 7 P’s Of The Marketing Mix Price Table 8.2) Strenghts and Weaknesses of The Price In Communicating The Brand Identity STRENGHTS AND WEAKNESSES OF THE PRICE IN COMMUNICATING THE BRAND IDENTITY Strengths:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx !

Psychological Pricing Strategy positioning the brand within the UK premium market and adding value without incurring additional production costs, also expresses the brand’s sophistication and exclusivity to a certain lifestyle group the brand targets

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Cost Difference Pricing for the same type of garment, allowing customers with different spending habits to buy into the brand, shows the brand sincerity and looking towards culture and lifestyle enhacement rather than just selling product

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Maintaining the premium positioning through creating image of exclusivity by not discounting more than once and only up-to 50%

Weaknesses:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx !

International price transparency and exceeding UK premium mid market price-points, where e.g. most clutch bags retail for on average £ 100 and at Antropologie around £158. Due to this, the brand may appear as insincere and not understanding of their customer and real spending power.

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Feature Evaluation Pricing confusing the customer. While applied to some merchandise by justifying price points by e.g. higher level of detailing, a mixed message send to customer when a basic item appears in the better price range - the brand appears as insincere. Fig. 21) Feature Evaluation Pricing Comparison

Both Cotton Tee and Detailed Organza Top: £ 58 !

Maintaining constant sales areas in-store and online, leading to depreciation of perceived quality of the brand.


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Place

Table 8.3) Strengths and Weaknesses of Place In Communicating The Brand Identity

STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF THE PRICE IN COMMUNICATING THE BRAND IDENTITY Strengths:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Trading through stores, catalogue and online, allowing those not able to reach the only 2 stores an opportunity to buy into the brand. Reaching customers with different shopping habits, and showing the understanding of customers’ lifestyle. Multichannel availability also expresses the innovative scope of the brand.

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The 2 only stores located in very prestigious spots within popular shopping destinations – London: Regent’s St and Kings Road. A new store opening is planned for Edinburgh’s George Street (Retail Week, 2010). This reinforces the premium positioning of the brand.

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Inventory includes a mixture of premium, vintage and independent brand merchandise from womenswear, accessories, homeware and concept gifts. This expresses not only the premium positioning and sophistication but also lifestyle and customer-focused brand identity and through becoming a one stop shop for their target lifestyle market.

Weaknesses:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Small coverage, while the existing locations are more mainstream than premium niche choices, compared to the UK premium market. It does not translate well from the brand attempting to stand for individualism, escapism, inspiration and excitement.

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Most garments are 3rd party designed and often manufactured in China, which often delays replenishment of sought after best-sellers (e.g. Silver Wool Bolero), as well as due to manufacturing location lowers perceived quality and stands against the concept of fine craftsmanship as opposed to mass production.


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Product Table. 8.4) Strengths and Weaknesses of Product In Communicating The Brand Identity STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF PRODUCT IN COMMUNICATING THE BRAND IDENTITY Strengths:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Product scope much broader than most premium retailers including Clothing, Accessories, Furniture and Homeware, and Gifts allowing it to be a one stop shop for its’ target market’s lifestyle needs and the brand express its customer-centric focus.

Brand Portfolio, including Made in Heaven, Splendid, Fallen Snow, as well as designer collaborations (e.g. with Anna Sui), make the brand a key one stop destination for garments made by niche yet recognizable brands with limited availability in the UK. The brand manages to express its bohemian yet individual aesthetic, innovativeness and differentiate itself by bringing excitement though niche product.

A number of merchandise boasting ‘hand-made’ tags shows brand as sophisticated to exclusivity of the product, and focused of fine craftsmanship.

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Returns policies matching those of other premium retailers (e.g. refund/ exchange up to 14 days), as well as additional benefits such as online returns might be made in-store and manufacturer faults will be exchanged/ refunded for up to 1 year instead of just during the season (Anthropologie, 2010b). Showing the brand as sincere in guaranteeing quality of the product and interest in consumer satisfaction

Weaknesses:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Quality of clothing garments mostly below a premium standard, which can be seen in lack of use of high quality fabrics (e.g. silk, cashmere) and poor finish of the garments (e.g. loose buttons, frayed stitching). Lack of attention to detail depreciates perceived quality, and brings into question sincerity of the brand claiming to focus on quality and fine craftsmanship.

Only 20% of merchandise sourced specifically for the UK (Retail Week, 2010b), leading to issues with the product reflecting local customer-specific focus of the brand. It also leads to dicrepancies between product reflecting European take on Urban Bohemian aesthetic and styling – especially with regards to fashion apparel.

With regards to clothing assortment, the large depth and breadth causes the collection to appear not well edited and therefore doesn’t convey the sophistication of the brand.

Heavy use of design features on each garment of clothing, while differentiates the product and promotes individualism, might appear as too different for customer lifestyle and associations (Business Week, 2006). Therefore difficult to create whole outfits/ multiple purchases.

Despite offering unique and attractive gift packaging, unlike at most premium retailers it is


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not free which impacts its’ premium identity. Promotion

Table 8.5) Strengths and Weaknesses Of Promotion In Communicating Brand Identity

STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF PROMOTION IN COMMUNICATING BRAND IDENTITY Strengths:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

15% Birthday Discount for registered customer reinforces the customer-centric brand-friend identity

The brand doesn’t advertise (Business Week, 2008), which reinforces the premium niche positioning and deep focus on target market rather than attempting a broad appeal

A great amount of publicity upon the entrance to the UK market in national monthly (e.g. Vogue) and daily broadsheets (Guardian, 2009), praising the brands innovative retail format, brand culture. Strategic placement of press coverage portraits the brand as premium and sophisticated.

In-store art gallery, collaborations with artists on elements of store décor. Product collaborations with niche designers such as Eley Kishimoto, create a publicity portraying the brand as culturally sophisticated, imaginative and innovative, telling stories about the brand rather than directly selling the product, as well as offering one of a kind personalized experience for its’ art passionate target market.

Organising charitable and cultural events in-store (Anthropologie, 2010c) reinforces the sophisticated, exciting and culturally aware brand identity, while fullfiling the promise to create a connection for the customers with their lifestyle group and make them feel hopefull.

European transactional website provides links to brands Facebook and Twitter, encouraging the friendship relationship with the customers and builiding a community around the brand.

Direct communication/ marketing occurs via a multichannel format: E-mail, Facebook and Twitter reinforcing the innovative scope of the brand.

Twitter marketing skilfully mixes information about the brand, cultural events, inspirational travel destinations, lifestyle tips, design and art innovation, not only showcasing the brand as exciting, sophisticated and innovative but also working towards enhancing customers lives and understanding their interests, passions and desires.

Facebook marketing led by the European team for the UK portraits the brand as customer centric, establishing a local emotional relationship with the customers.


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The fan page includes photographs and videos from buying trips, store events and lifestyle photo shoots, allowing the brand to been seen as open and sincere about its organizational process, while at the same time bringing excitement and inspiration to customers. Weaknesses:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Lack of ongoing press coverage, product placement, brand mention in the UK press post opening fails to portray the brand as exciting.

Negative publicity with regards to destroying unsold merchandise instead of donating to charity (Alternet, 2010), creates an impression of insincerity with regards to the brand being interested in humanity and culturally aware.

E-mail marketing focuses only on new product arrival conveying an image of direct selling rather than friendship relationship with the customer, as well as doesn’t offer the Inspirational Anthropologie Expereince with e.g. Magazine Like Features, Lifestyle related tips, etc.

Twitter marketing led by the U.S operations and therefore relating to events and products non-relevant to the UK customer and doesn’t create an emotional relationship on the local level.

Unlike Twitter the Facebook fan page does not create an impression of attempting to enhance customer lifestyle and being culturally aware, as majority of the updates from the brand are brand-centric and don’t show the brands interest in local (European) cultural scene beyond their chosen collaborators.

Social networking marketing poorly expresses the polysensual, inspiring Anthropologie experience, relying mainly on images rather than videos and sound as well.

Facebook marketing is weak in creating a friendship/ soul mate relationship with customers, as doesn’t update statuses expressing interest in customers opinion, desires etc. and only replies to customer posts regarding specific product/ service queries, no replies to customer-started threads in Discussion tab.

Lack of community building features and lack of relying on customers opinion within the transactional website (e.g. share with friends features, opinion exchange features/ forums for sharing ideas of how to wear/ style product, links to members of the community blogs, etc.). Lack of the above features doesn’t express the brands claim to be innovative and exciting,


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Physical Evidence

Table 8.6. Strengths and Weaknesses Of Physical Evidence In Communicating Brand Identity STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF PHYSICAL EVIDENCE IN COMMUNICATING BRAND IDENTITY Strengths:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Customer Service options and order provided by phone and e-mail, while all the product and service queries placed on social networking sites replied to in a timely and efficient manner, showcasing the brand as innovative and customer centric.

Clear and easy to use transactional website expresses the innovative and customer focused identity of the brand looking to enhance customers’ lives.

Premium level space functionality and allowance (e.g. spacious fitting rooms and walkways, rest areas) expressing the brand’s desired positioning and customer focused identity.

Weaknesses:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Poor in-store service evidence, as customers greeted but never approached by staff. While knowledge of the product and offered services is not broad, making it difficult for customers to get query response. This not only affects the premium identity of the brand but also strongly impacts the brand-friend identity expression.

Lack of search related recommendations on the website leading to poor translation of exploratory in-store experience. Lack of innovative, lifestyle features on the website, which are available on the U.S website (e.g. create an outfit application, create a self-representative virtual mannequin application) (ZPryme, 2010), and therefore not portraying the innovative, providing compelling personalised shopping experience part of brand identity.

Lack of clearly visible signage indicating fitting rooms/ sales area taking away from the premium level positioning and compelling customer focused identity.

Each member of staff with a headset makes the service come across as less approachable and therefore does not convey the sincere brand-friend identity.


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People

Table 8.7) Strengths and Weaknesses Of People In Communicating Brand Identity STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF PEOPLE IN COMMUNICATING BRAND IDENTITY Strengths:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

The C.E.O of the company, Glen Senk, often quoted as driven by culture, innovation, creativity and need for deep understanding of customer lifestyle and desires (WWD, 2008), which well reflects the key elements of the brand identity.

Upon the brand’s arrival in the UK, Glen Senk, quoted as ‘Anglophile’ (NY Times, 2009) which well reflects brand’s customer-centric identity on a local level.

Heavy featuring of Keith Johnson, the head buyer, in brands promotional features/ publicity about his travelling the globe to source the most unique, eclectic product relevant to the customers’ desires and aesthetic (Business Week, 2006). This represents the brand-friend identity through personification of the corporate activity, showcases the brand’s deep cultural awareness, sophistication and excitement. His journeys also showcase brands interest in fine craftsmanship and brand’s concern in supporting artisans and local cultures.

The brand identity expressed through co-creation/ collaborations by niche specialists (e.g. Le Labo), artists (e.g. Natalie Lete), non mainstream designers (e.g. Eley Kishimoto), which shows the focus on fine craftsmanship, cultural awareness and sophistication, premium positioning and introduces an element of excitement into brand’s identity.

Polite, well-spoken in-store staff showcasing the brands sophistication and premium positioning.

In-store staff not pushy in selling garments, which aids the provision of customer led compelling shopping experience part of the brand identity, as well as reinforces the concept of the brand as a friend rather than commercial organization.

Area managers invited on Keith Johnson’s buying trips in order to assess product suitability for the specific local market (Business Week, 2006), which reinforces the image of a global brand focused on customers’ local/ more personal needs.

Customer to customer conversation on Facebook page creates translates into an image of an exciting and inspirational brand understanding the customers’ desires (e.g. ‘Will be hinting ….. to Santa’; ‘The…. Reminds me of when I went to….’; ‘I want to travel with Keith, I want to have his job’).

Fans of the brand often featuring the product/ interior pictures on their personal/ hobby blogs: Anthropologie as exciting, aspirational and inspirational brand in posts on how to make Anthropologie inspired items and clothing garments (e.g. Splitz Hems Blog) and posts on


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how well the brand represents their lifestyle (e.g.Generally Gemma Blog, Hot On The Highstreet Blog) Anthropologie as sophisticated and feminine brand bringing finer things in to the mundane everyday (e.g. Nest Goodies Blog) Weaknesses:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Lack of European top-tier executives: John Bidwell’s (European MD) position made redundant (Business Week, 2010), as well as the role of European buying director, which was taken over by the U.S based co-presidents: Wendy McDevitt and Wendy Wurzberrger, who are now responsible for the support of the UK team (Retail Week, 2010a). While the management situation reflects the global identity of the brand, it does not reflect the customer-centric identity with regards to try to adjust the brand’s offering on a local level.

In-store staff doesn’t approach the customer – even if trying on garments on the shop floor, walking around with garments in hand -, is not keen to engage in a conversation, does not seem excited about the product which is a poor showcase of the exciting brand-friend identity and premium level service.

UK website outsourced to a third party management and host (Kiss, 2010), leading to discrepancies with regards to expression of brand identity with regards to the website compared with other sales channels (e.g. stores)

Fans of the brand often portraying the brand as overpriced on their personal/ hobby blogs and sharing tips where to find Anthropologie product for less (e.g. Nest Goodies Blog), which reinforces the problems with perceived quality affecting the perception of premium positioning of the brand.


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Process

Table 8.7) Strengths and Weaknesses Of Process In Communicating Brand Identity STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES OF PROCESS IN COMMUNICATING BRAND IDENTITY Strengths:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

As outlined by one of the store managers, changes to parts of visual merchandising introduced on a weekly basis, which promotes inspirational and exciting identity.

Strict corporate guidelines for in-store staff behaviour: an employee can be made redundant if: it’s obvious in the behaviour that he/she is transparently selling the product rather than helping the customer to achieve the optimum benefits from the shopping experience (Marketing M.O, 2009), as well as does not endeavour to treat customer as a friend, does not come across as passionate and fun to spend time with (Maltoni, 2007). This showcase the brand as focused on customers benefits on all levels of the brand.

• Weaknesses:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx •

Poor execution of the staff behaviour guidelines in the UK stores, exposes lack of strong management of staff training and motivation with regards to understanding the brand identity.

Online Service Provision and Service Technologies have been analyzed with the Physical Evidence (Table 6.8)


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9) Anthropologie Key UK Competitor’s Analysis Due to being a lifestyle brand with a broad product scope, Anthropologie’s specific competitive market is not easily identifiable. The concept of Anthropologie’s brand identiy within the premium mid-market, especially with regards to feminine whimsical culture driven aspect, is quite unique on the UK market, however customers’ preference for buying into other brands is driven by several factors. While the management suggests that the key competition for the brand are independent multibrand and multi-product boutiques due to personalized experience and unique stock (Anthropologie, 2010a), it transpires that this factor is strongly combined with competition from the mid-market. Good examples of offering a similar merchandise at a lower price are boutiques in trendy urban areas (e.g. Graham and Green), as well as small chain mid-market retailers such as Olivier Bonas. Fig.22) Example of Lack of Product Differentiation and Excessive Mark Up by Anthropologie


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With regards to targeting the 28-35 age group within their lifestyle market, one of Anthropologie’s key competitor’s emerges to be their sister brand Urban Outfitters. Targeting the 18 -25 age bracket of the Hip Urban Bohemian lifestyle segment, U.O might be cannibalising Anthropologie’s sales among the slightly older customer group due to currently youth lifestyle being often carried over well into consumers’ 30’s. Urban Outfitters is, as well, a premium lifestyle brand with a broad product scope (e.g. fashion apparel, homeware, gifts) however its’ brand positioning and price mix is more relevant to a slightly more edgy concept of European New Urban Bohemian. While having a distinctly less feminine and romantic brand concept it gains superiority among the 28-35 age bracket through: !

Delivering a niche label product differentiated from the high-street yet at competitive prices to independent boutiques (e.g. a limited edition Fade + Shade Dress £65)

!

Delivering a fashion product more relevant to target market aesthetic (Fig.23)

Fig. 23) European New Urban Bohemian in her 30’s (U.O outfit) vs. Anthropologie Urban Bohemian

!

Having a marketing communications strategy specific to target market lifestyle: publicity in both popular women’s magazines like Elle as well as more niche lifestyle magazines; Website featuring music, lifestyle tips and videos, as well as interviews with niche endorsers such as Uffie (a mum and a musician), as well as specific City Pages with information about interesting places, events, etc.


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With regards to the older customer segment, within brands of a similar market and brand positioning, Jigsaw is the most direct competitor due to targeting similar lifestyle group with a preference for bohemian aesthetic. It is also relevant to the younger segment, as it has engaded in activities to entice a broader, age varied market share. Upon Anthropologie’s launch into the UK market, a spoke person has revealed that they will be closely looking at Jigsaw brand as one of the key competitors (Mesure, 2008). Jigsaw, a premium British womenswer retailer, offers classic upmarket apparel yet always referring to the bohemian aesthetic preferred by the lifestyle target market of Anthropologie. Jigsaw, was also often named in the top three premium retailers fitting the description of Anthropologie’s brand identity, as well as top 3 UK premium women’s lifestyle brands. Jigsaw’s core identity is based around individualistic high quality product inspired by the customer lifestyle sold in one-o-a-kind, inspiring environment, as well as creativity and brand-friend relationship to the customers (Jigsaw, 2010).


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Fig.21) Jigsaw and Anthropologie Points of Parity Within 7 P’s of Marketing Mix in Creating Brand Equity

Jigsaw &

Anthropologie

Points of Parity

Place: Price: Justyfiying premium level pricing through elements of marketing activities

Promotion: Focus on cause and event marketing, artist collaborations and social media marketing Process: Multichannel customer service options Multichannel sales

Broadening potential market share and introducing innovation through multichannel distribution Physical Evidence: Visual Merchandising strongly indicating bohemian element of the brand identity Focus on visual merchandising, instore decor and frequently changing window displays in conveying the message of brand identity

Product: Introducing Vintage and 3rd Party designed product selection in response to creating a more unique, personalized shopping offer

People: Collaboration with artist and architects on creating visual identity of the brand


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Fig. 22) Jigsaw’s Points of Branding Superiority over Anthropologie Within 7 P’s of Marketing Mix

Price

Place

Product

•!Price Points clearly indicating premium positioning without exceeding UK premium midmarket bracketts •!Maintaining the perception of exclusivity and premium positioning through lack of discounting activities between seasonal sales, apart from 15% discretionary discount for loyal customers •!Key stores located in exclusive but know for bein creative niche brands hub areas (e.g. Dover Street) •!Smaller Boutiques in majority of affluent but slightly bohemian areas (e.g. Notting Hill, Spital Fields Market, Islington), as well as affluent small towns (e.g. Cheshire) - key to convenience of their target market •!A combination of premium market positioning and upmarket bohemian aesthetic of brand posiioing reflected through attention to detail and design features in majority of better and basic womeswear (e.g. unusual lining or trim, vintage on-of-a-kind buttons) •!A broad product variety in womenwear (e.g. workwear, casualwear, eveningwear, accessories), while maintaining exclusivity through, well-edited, downsized collections, as well as homeware and childrenswear – which considering the target market’s family lifestage is a crucial component in order to create a shopping experience centred around the needs of customers •!Use of high quality fabrics throughout the collection (e.g. cashmere, Persian lambs wool, fine wool and silk) •!Collections reflecting wardrobe needs of the target market – a mixture of classic wardrobe staples with key fashion pieces kept in the upmarket bohemian aesthetic. To appeal to both the customer in their 30's and the over 45's. •!A large portfolio of after sale services (e.g. alterations, free delivery of product purchased in store) •!Packaging offering a beyond premium shopping experience – carrier bags and tissues each season designed by a different graphic designer.


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Promotion

Physical Evidence

Process

•!Publicity speaking directly to the over 45 market: not only through product placement in publications such as Red or Easy Living, but also through using Belle Robinson, owner’s wife, as a poster girl for the brand and a personification of core customer profile. Often profiled in daily and women’s lifestyle press features on: successful over 45’s and their lifestyle, culture and art, popular social events (e.g. Chelsea Flower Show, Cartier Polo), exotic travel and inspirations. •!Using key fashion pieces’ placement in upmarket weeklies (e.g. Grazia) and monthlies (e.g. Vogue, Marie Claire) to entice the younger more fashion orientated market. •!Engagement with green issues through closely working with British Soil Association •!Brand blog, Inside Jigsaw, not only updating the followers on new product, brand publicity, etc. but also quoting customer feedback, which shows the brand a truly customer centric

•!Contemporary store environment with vintage touches (e.g. artwork, some furniture, cushions, restored building’s original staircase) showcase a combination of sophistication and eclectic bohemian identity, while making the product clearly displayed, well arranged in visual terms (e.g. sections represent collection themes with a mixture of all levels of merchanise) with focus on highlighting the key merchandise of the season. •!Staff strategically positioned around the store and always acknowledging the customer. Always a member of staff available to collect garments and move them to the fitting room; fitting room attendants to pin clothing requiring alterations/ exchange sizes; most stores with dedicated store receptionist dealing with enquiries, requests, etc. The service gives a premium mid-market brand a very exclusive yet welcoming feel. •!Clear layout of the stores and signage makes it easy to find desired garments, find fitting rooms. •!Customers encouraged to feel the fabrics of the garments – raising perceived quality through poly sensual experience and reinforcing the reputation for standing for quality and attention to detail.

•!Staff strategically positioned around the store and always acknowledging the customer. Always a member of staff available to collect garments and move them to the fitting room; fitting room attendants to pin clothing requiring alterations/ exchange sizes •!Helpful, well-trained sales force: knowledgeable about the collection and the

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People

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•!Belle and John Robinson, the owners of the brand, focusing strategy directly on satisfying wellunderstood target market, and not afraid to change management if current direction doesn’t translate into sales (e.g. Louise Trotter, the new creative director, brought in to disassociate the brand from ‘frumpiness’) (Armstrong, 2008) •!An upper management team created from professionals with great experience of understanding the UK market and specific lifestyle target market: Des Swan, the M.D, a former M.D of Thomas Pink (Thomson,2010), •!Helpful, well-trained sales force: knowledgeable about the collection and the brand, offering personal shopping services, not pushy but keen to offer alternatives


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10) Brand Equity Analysis and Improvement Recommendationsxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx After establishing key problems within elements of brand equity valuation, it is crucial to establish amended brand strategy for the next 24 months– followed by action and control – in order to enable bulding brand equity leading to fulfilling key objectives of: !

Increasing Sales Revenue and Profitability on the UK Market through product and promotion improvements for stronger relevance to the UK target market by mid 2012

!

Anthropologie ought to strive for grow its’ current market share to command a combined market share of 2 independent premium lifestyle retailers of similar brand positioning by the end of 2012 through the broad product portfolio beyond fashion apparel and 2 various lifestyle stages of the target market

!

Improving key weaknesses of the marketing mix in order to meet customer expectations, raise perceived quality, express points of parity with the competition by mid-2012

!

Anthropologie ought to focus on increasing visibility and salience to a relatively – for a new comer to the UK market- high level, as compared to key brands within its’ brand positioning segment, by the end of 2011

!

Anthropologie ought to strive for at least 40% footfall into sales conversion and 60% repetitive purchase customers, returing at least every 3 months, by mid 2012 through key adjustments within the marketing mix portfolio


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10.1) Brand Equity Valuation

Score

Category

Table 10.1) Anthropologie Brand Equity Score Card Valuation

Comments

The overall concept for brand identity strongly resonates with the target market, they see a reflection of ideal self-concept in the brand identity. Especially the in-store environment, as well as visual branding, introduces the interactive and experiential aspect expected by the target market. Exclusivity and Uniqeuness are well expressed through: exclusive collaborations with niche designers, craftsman and artist; a number of hand-made and found

However: For the overall lifestyle market expectations, at lower price points (basic and better) the brand fails to deliver enough quality and product differentiation points from the

Lower Medium

Delivers Benefits Customers Desire

products, and product assortment within the best price range.

mid-market to entice them as they expect exclusivity and individuality. Brand’s promotional activities do not clearly reflect their lifestyle and UK specific focus. The online sphere, both with regards to visual communication and strategy fails to deliver the interactive and experiental element desired from the premium lifestyle experience. With regards to the over 45 market the brand doesn’t make any effort to speak to them directly as expected by that target segment. While both age groups among the target market enjoy brands that reflect their values and are active on cultural, eco, political front, Anthropologie fails to strongly act upon this expectation. Apart from eco solutions in-store (green living wall), and some cause activism (fundraising events), the brand gets bad publicity for anti-eco actions and financial support of right wing politicians.


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The brand shows understanding of the growing influence and consumer potential of the urban customer, and their preference for unique individualistic styling, bohemian flair, slightly DIY aesthetic. However: The brand fails to adapt the target market understanding to the European aesthetic. While other product assortment visual styling (e.g. furniture) fits with the local taste, the representation of fashion apparel in e.g. look books make it irrelevant to local uderstanding of current take on bohemian fashion within Europe: ‘boho-tech’ where soft feminine bohemian aesthetic is juxtaposed with masculine, industrial elements. The brand fails to express in their visual communication that it is a lifestyle brand, encompassing both the younger customer and the over 45’s, who share an aesthetic and attitude rather than a specific age (Fig.23).

Higher Low

Relevance

Fig.23) Missoni and Comptoir des Cottoniers – LifestyleAttitude and Aesthetic not Age and LifeStage


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brand acting as their ideal self-concept representation and unique shopping experience.

Medium Low

Price Based on Consumer Perception of Brand Value

Customers are willing to pay premium for the Anthropologie product due to the

However: Customers see the brand as overpriced due not only international price transparency but also the brand’s move to exceed other niche premium mid-market brands. They also see it as overpriced due to perceived low quality of the core product and lack of its’ differentiation from cheaper retailers. There is lack of feature evaluation pricing therefore difficult to understand basic / better range division. PREMIUM MARKET POSITIONING Premium lifestyle niche market remains buoyant despite the economic downturn, especially among the brand’s target market. However: Lack of integrated marketing makes this positioning unclear: originally the brand

Lower Medium

Positioning

(US) was only slightly upscale, it claims to be premium however some marketing moves suggest lack of points of parity with the UK premium market; while price points suggest entering lower levels of the designer market. BRAND POSITIONING Niche lifestyle brands targeting specific consumer tribes, especially the affluent urban trendsetting customer are said to be tapping into one of the trends with a strongest growth and profitability potential. The escapist, inspirational feminine bohemian brand concept is close to target market’s self concept. However: The brand’s integrated marketing strategy fails to clearly define their actual target market (aesthetic and attitude) rather than specific lifestyle, as well as grasp and translate the meaning of that specific identity within the European sphere.


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VISUAL COMMUNICATION Consistent visual communication along most channels, however the website does not fully convey the brand’s identity and one of a kind experience promise. against premium positioning, as well as – especially with regards to fashion apparel – introduces a visual clutter. Offering more instead of offering different, prevents customers from making purchases and therefore impacts profitability.

Lower Medium

Consistency of Communications

Moreover, the visual communication with regards to in-store environment works

Also, the basic and better product is not consistent with key points of brand identity and market positioning. OTHER COMMUNICATION While the brand attempts to build communication via integrated platforms, both printed and online, it fails to deliver a message consistent with its’ identity and market positioning. Firstly, the online sphere – website + social media platforms – fail to convey the lifestyle attitude aspect of the brand and don’t portray the brand as a soulmate but are rather all about the product (hard sell). Secondly poor catalogue/ look book circulation and US relevant Twitter, don’t showcase the brand as desirably ‘glocal’.


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While the Parent Company URBN Inc claims each of its’ brands (Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie in the UK) choose a different customer segment but are all linked by love of creativity and bohemian inclination. The brand description of Anthropologie’s customer is that of an Urban Outfitters fan who has now grown up, is more romantic and sophisticated. However, the brand execution always seem to deliver a wrong representation of that customer in right surroundings (interior design).

Higher Low

Fits Into Brand Portfolio

Fig. 24) Urban Outfitters to Anthropologie – A Customer Style Evolution

Both age groups Anthropologie counts within its’ customer base, share similarities with regards to their aesthetic. While an allover hip edgy bohemian look is to young, they choose classic pieces with directional detailing and mix with accessories expressing their creative flair. In this case Boutique Brands within Urban Outfitters (e.g. See by Chloe, Vanessa Bruno, Surface to Air) are more fit to their aesthetic than ‘frumpy’ And ‘suburban’ Styling of Anthropologie’s take on majority bohemian looks.


Medium Strategy

Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

Marketing

Integrated

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As outlined in part 8.4c, there are key issues with consistency of the marketing strategy across the 7 P’s of the marketing mix.

Low

brand meanings relevant to the UK market.

Managers

Meaningful to

Lack of top tier UK exectutives leads to a failure of of consistency of expressing

It is visible in poor integration of outsourced operations (e.g. website) with the brand identity and concept, as well as lack of understanding how the visual (e.g. product, styling) and non-visual aspects (e.g. price) have to be adapted to suit the expectations of the UK market, market and brand positioning. It also impacts lower management and staff performance/ behaviour. building strategy specific to the UK market.

Low

Sustained Support

Lack of top tier UK executives translates into lack of coordinated brand awareness

There is no consistency in creating talking points for the UK operations for brand in order to enable wide publicity in sources specific to the target market. The brand also fails to engage in dialogue with the only publicity they currently receive – the blogosphere.


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Table 10.2) Key Strategy, Action and Control to Improve Anthropologie’s UK Brand Equity

KEY STRATEGY TO IMPROVE ANTHROPOLOGIE’S UK BRAND EQUITY Strategy for Delivering Key Beneftis For The Customer Group: Improve the perception of individuality and exclusivity through introducing more sophisticated product ranges highly differentiated from the mid-market, as well as better edited with regards to breadth of each product type by A/W 11. Ensuring introducing a more UK centric strategy with regards to both marketing communications (with immediate effect), as well as visual aesthetic of the fashion apparel by A/W 11.

Translate the exciting, interactive and inspirational shopping experience beyond the in-store environment with a specific focus on the transactional website (to be launched by Christmas 2011) and possibly engaging urban environment. Ensuring a specific focus on a strong common element between all age groups of the target segment (eco, cultural and political activism) and encompassing it within their promotional activities. Ensuring a clear message within marketing communications – both visual and non-visual - about being a brand that ‘want’s to be a freind’ to the over 45’s. Strategy for Becoming Relevant to the Desired Consumer Group on the UK market:

Ensuring all brand communications, both non-visual and visual, suggest a shift from targeting an attitude lifestyle connected group rather than lifestage lifestyle connected group with an immediate effect. Ensuring that both product aesthetic and selection– especially fashion apparel – and styling in e.g. look books is reflective of European understanding of urban bohemian aesthetic and various age groups take on it. Strategy for Improving Customer Perception of Brand Value:

Ensuring a revision and implementation of a New Pricing Strategy by A/W 11

Ensuring revision of buying strategies for A/W 11 to introduce core product of a visibly better


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quality, highly relevant to the target market and design differentiated from the mid-market

Ensuring reinforcing the concept of firmly premium positioning and specific lifestyle relevance not just through the above but an increased number of promotional activity with immediate effect. Strategy for Improving Brand and Market Positioning:

Ensure firm market positioning within the women’s premium market through: !

Adjusting price points to match and not exceed UK Premium Mid-Market Price Points, as well as express a better Feature Evaluation Pricing by A/W 11

!

Ensuring strong product differentiation from the mid-market within the better and basic ranges by A/W 11 to include not only aesthetic differentiation but also focus on premium fabrics (e.g.silk not polyester) and garment quality

!

Ensuring better exposure of fashion apparel through elimination of visual clutter within the actual product ranges through editing and downsizing and in-store visual merchandising by A/W 11. A focus should also be put on constant maintenance of visual merchandising of fashion apparel to the premium level.

!

Ensuring building a strategy and ongoing implementation of expression of points of parity with the UK Premium Market with immediate effect, especially with regards to: levels of customer service, after-sale services,

!

If new locations are planned at any point – less main-stream and more nche and prestigious ought to be chosen

Ensure firm brand positioning within the niche women’s lifestyle market through: !

Focus on redefining their lifestyle niche within the UK market immediate effect

!

Building a new communication strategy to express affiliation with the specific customer group with immediate effect from finalizing the redefinition

!

Adjusting the fashion apparel ranges to suit the target market’s preferred aesthetic and expectations of premium brand input into their wardrobe (e.g. key statement pieces, personal treats) by A/W 11

!

Redefining brand portfolio within fashion apparel offer to enjoy associations with brands targeting that lifestyle niche by A/W 11


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Strategy for Improving Consistent Communications: Introduce changes to the transactional website enabling a stronger expression of all aspects of the brand identity to be launched by A/W 11. Ensuring planning and changes to the visual merchandising of the fashion apparel in-store with immediate effect, while focusing on it’s expression of premium positioning and balance between eclectic and visual clutter. Ensuring changes to the buying strategy of fashion apparel in the run up to A/W 11 to ensure strong visual differentiation from the mid-market and relevance of the ranges to visual brand identity as expected within the UK market. Ensuring changes to marketing communications to be implemented by A/W 11 focusing on: !

Broadening the lifestyle aspect of the online brand sales and communication channels through introducing a more interactive and UK specific approach

!

Improving the catalogue/ look books availability and circulation in the UK with immediate efffect

!

Ensuring a change in approach of online communications through shifting the priamary focus to bulding a lifestyle-friend relationship with the customer, while making the product a background/ secondary focus of the communications with immediate effect

Strategy for Improving Fitting Into URBN Brand Portfolio:

Ensuring understanding of key similarities of the Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters Customers: eventhough older, more sophistcated and slightly more romatic, she is still an urban bohemian and has matured from a similar style direction, as well as has interest in not just escapism but urban lifestyle, as well. This ought to be reflected in buying of fashion ranges and creating promotional strategies for A/W 11. Strategy for Improving Consistency of Overall Marketing Strategy:

Ensuring eliminating key weaknesess of the brand strategy (see part 8.4c) in reflecting all levels and aspects of the brand identity focusing on the most important in building awareness, loyalty and sailence among the target market with immediate effect and by A/W 11, while leaving others for further inspection.


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Strategy for Ensuring the Brand Is Meaningful to Managers:

Ensuring assigning at least 1 UK based top tier executive with an immediate effect. Ensuring that managers of all key outsourced operations (e.g. website) are briefed on the full extent of brand identity overhauled to fit the UK market with immediate effect, in order to be able to adjust their output to the needs of branding strategy. Ensuring UK management and in-store staff training preparation and delivery with immediate effect in order to build a better understanding of: brand identity reflective required customer approach and customer service levels. Strategy for Ensuring Sustained Brand Support: Introduce ongoing amendments to Marketing Promotion strategies and introduce Core Product – especially within fashion apparel - relevant to UK aesthetic by A/W 11. Use the above amendments in order to induce Press interest and build sustainable and favourable press relations – expressed in highly increased number of brand mention, profile and product placement – with both key print and online publications popular among the target market, as well as the blogosphere, with immediate effect.


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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ACTION AND CONTROL FOR IMPROVING ANTHROPOLOGIE UK BRAND EQUITY MARKET SEGMENT STRATEGY MARKET TARGETING, PARITY POSITIONING AND DIFFERENTIATION Price Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Adjust prices of better and basic product to the UK premium level (reach parity with Jigsaw, Whistles, Zadig & Voltaire) by A/W 11, which while still higher than the original will act as firming the desired market positioning of Anthropologie. Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Cost of the strategy monitoring prior to introduction, sales monitoring via all distribution channnels on a weekly basis. Monitoring of online and in-store traffic changes on a weekly basis. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To strengthen the perception of the exclusivity of the brand remove, between official sales periods, sales areas from the stores and official website by early 2012. Instead use the strategy introduced by niche premium retailers (e.g. Aubin & Will) and create an invite only online outlet available only to registered customers (e.g. those who have shared their details signing up for loyalty scheme/ newsletter). Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Cost of strategy implementation monitoring. Customer surveys testing their perception of the brand and willingness to pay a premium for product after at least a season from introducing the outlet.


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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Place Action: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Changes in visual merchandising of the core product to reflect premium positioning of the brand. Staff to be briefed on standards of maintenance: steaming, folding, tidying of the shop floor, with immediate effect. Each fixture to be created around a specific look in order to encourage multiple puchases, while having various levels of merchandise (basic, better, best) in order to raise the perceived quality of the cheaper items. This strategy to be implemented with immediate effect. Better editing of the number of garments of one type of product (e.g. yellow top just 1 of each size) to remove the visual clutter and introduce more exclusive feeling to the store. To be implemented with immediate effect. Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Internally: Daily checks from in-store management and visual merchandisers, weekly spotchecks from area managers. Externally: Customer surveys testing their perception of the brand and willingness to pay a premium for product after at least a season from strategy implementation. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Introducing a new visual direction for the UK website to be launched the latest in 2012. This should be focused making the online experience more unusual and interactive than average premium transactional website. The Explore Section, currently basic shopping look book, to be transformed into an interactive fortnightly shopping magazine (Fig.25), where each theme (e.g. Unearthed) would be explored through editorial features, interviews, music videos, inspirational reading and art slideshows – all of which would offer links to related products.


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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Fig.25) Example of Shopping Editorial Page

Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Weekly monitoring of website traffic to online sales conversion. Weekly monitoring the changes to newsletter and social media content subscribers. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Improving catalogue circulation in the UK with immediate effect, ensuring an instant availability for each postage request. Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Monthly monitoring of catalogue request to sales conversion.


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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Product Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx While the homeware pieces well reflect the target market aesthetic, widely available pieces ought to be eliminated from the collection. With regards to fashion apparel (to be implemented by A/W 11 or S/S 12): Eliminate majority of basics and mid-market available/ similar product. Keeping in mind that the customer comes to Anthropologie for one-off statement pieces and accessories, focus on delivering this type of merchandise in smaller better edited collections. Fig.26) Key Product Amendments Concept


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Monitor the success of the new core product through weekly sales figures, consumer surveys after 1 season, press and blogosphere responses/ reviews, customer social media responses. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Up UK specfic product sourcing to 40% byA/W11 - S/S 12 in order to become more relevant to the local aesthetic and desired product benefits. Focus on the review of brand portfolio to choose niche labels more reflective of customer aesthetic and more recognizable by target market (e.g.: Vanessa Bruno Athe, Monica Viander, Elisabeth & James, Designer Remix, Tibi) Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Monitor the success of the new core product through weekly sales figures, consumer surveys after 1 season, press and blogosphere responses/ reviews, customer social media responses. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Introduce the U.S available eco-conscious loyalty scheme of foregoing packaging with the in-store purchase/ or choosing eco-basic home-delivery packaging in return for points to be exchanged for gift vouchers from A/W 11 in order to encourage customers to share their details and therefore be exposed to brand communications (e.g. newsletter). Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Monitoring the numbers of scheme involved customers and their tendency to repeat purchases/ loyalty. Monitoring the PR value of this scheme.


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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Promotion Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx In visual representation of the ‘Anthropologie woman’ (e.g. look books, videos, photoshoots) use images of women of all ages (e.g. 30 – 40 – 50 - 60) sharing the same outlook on life and experiences. Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx In-store observation of customer age spectrum, monitoring age of social media followers on bi-monthly basis, as well as customer surveys testing the perception of relevance of the brand among various age groups. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Integration of all social media platforms and the newsletter with an immediate effect. All to deliver a UK specific message with a shift of focus from core product to customer lifestyle. Using US marketing as a template all should deliver lifestyle tips (e.g.10 best organic groceries in London, best rural retreats in the city), talk about events (e.g. upcoming exhibitions, intimate concerts, unusual happenings in the urban sphere like pop up restaurants, installations), as well as brand’s inspirations in art, literature or music (e.g. Anthropologie could share a daily song with it’s followers). The written message of the social media should also engage followers in a dialogue: ‘Today we’re mostly wiggling to Florrie’s ‘Call of the Wild’ – what’s your music inspiration for today?’ Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Weekly measuring the number of newsletter and social media subscribers, and conversion of views followed by redirection to the transactional website and actual purchase. Action: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From A/W 11 engage in innovative promotional activities (talking points) extending the brand into the urban sphere and allowing to alter it to customers’ expectations(e.g.): !

Facebook Places: 5 check-ins at Anthropologie can be converted into loyalty points or a Tea and Cake at Primrose Bakery.

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Anthropologie curated pop-up urban retreat pod’s in locations popular with the


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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target market (e.g.Spitalfields Market, Notting Hill, Serpentine in Hyde Park) offering unusual interior, music and an element of surprise !

Anthropologie curated outdoor film screenings in unusual urban locations

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Anthropologie free phone app ‘Woman’s Guide To:’ – highlighting quirky, niche places of interest in key UK and European city’s relevant to their target market

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Introduce a new loyalty scheme where by volunteering with Anthropologie endorsed charities customers can earn loyalty points/ gift vouchers

Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx While cost monitoring is crucial prior to deciding the order of implementation, this will allow increase and monitoring of: social media followers, press coverage. After each activity surveys ought to be carried out to test brand awareness, perception of identiy, willingness to pay a premium for product (perceived quality). Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Introduce a community part within the transactional website ready for the launch of the new visual direction, where the customers can create virtual outfits and interiors, share their Anthropologie looks, become a guest blogger showing a week in life of an Anthropologie customer (expression of variety of ages, lifestages). Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Monitoring of sales of community recommended products. Monitoring potential increase of ratio of online traffic to online purchases. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Increasing Press Office activity with immediate effect. Building positive relationships with journalists from consumer press (fashion, interior, lifestyle, culture, travel both printed and online; other press such as daily broadsheets and weekend supplements, as well as key UK bloggers (topics as consumer press + green issues) with immediate effect. Prior to final implementation of talking points, product and promotional strategies increase press communications and afterwards maintain a steady level of at least 35 press mentions a month. This should not only include brand mention, product placement but also customer lifestyle profiles and behind the scenes of Anthropologie features. Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Constant monitoring of PR value of each of press mentions and trying to exceed last


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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months.

Physical Evidence Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx US management to train and brief UK management on Customer Service levels and guidelines – this later to be filtered to UK in-store staff – with immediate effect: !

Workshops on engaging the customer in a friendly conversation not just about product

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Workshops on skillful introducing the customer to the brand concept, talking about aspects of brand they can’t see in-store

Headsets available just for stockroom runners. Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx In-store sales monitoring on a weekly basis. Mystery shopper monitoring of staff executions of the new guidelines.

People Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Introducing the positions of European M.D and Buying Director back into the UK team with immediate effect in order to overlook the strategy overhaul, while ensuring that both have strong career background specific to European/ UK lifestyle market. Control: Monthly monitoring of cost, efficiency and success of strategy implementation by U.S top tier executives. Action:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Bringing the website hosting and managemnt back from 3rd party to internally managed. Control:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx As suggested in website related actions.

Process

No Recommendations.


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Anthropologie – Brand Equity Analysis and Problem Solutions

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