Fashioning Innovation and Leadership – Katarzyna Olivier
Table of Contents: 1) Introduction 2) Localization of The Consumer Sentiment: External Stimuli and Their Strategic Implications 2.1) Localization of The Consumer Sentiment: PESTLE Based External Stimuli Analysis 2.2) Localization of Consumer Sentiment: Brand Strategic Implications 3) Localization and The Fashion Retail 4) Community Brands: Localized Social Media Marketing Communications in Practice 4.1) Absolut: A Global Member of Local Communities 4.2) Frame: From a Fitness Studio to Community Lifestyle Enhancer 5) Fashionising Community Brands: Application of Localized Social Media Communication to Global Fashion Retailers’ Practices 6) Conclusions Bibliography-References Appendix 1 Appendix 2
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Fashioning Innovation and Leadership – Katarzyna Olivier
1) Introduction Innovation, translating new ideas into commercially viable outputs, is the ability to successfully and profitably adapt to the turbulent external environment (Andriopoulos and Dawson, 2006). It is a tool to exploit change, for creating a competitive advantage in the organization and its’ output through an effective pairing of needs and means (Andriopoulos and Dawson, 2006). Focusing on innovation for the fashion industry, a general framework for all consumer business will be utilized, as all are subject to the same broad external forces and similar internal issues. This involves: a supportive overview of external forces, proactive linkages between them; and effective mechanisms for the innovation to operate in them; while building on the analysis to introduce innovation into own organizational context and develop capabilities (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009). This essay will look – focusing on social media marketing communications – at innovation for practices of global mid-market fashion retailers faced with rapid Social and Technological changes. The social and cultural sphere has been identified as a key determinant of the success of introduction and sustainability of change within businesses (Andriopoulos and Dawson, 2006). Further in the essay, PESTLE analysis proves a need for innovation derived from a paradigm discontinuity: a consumer sentiment and behavior shift from global to local. Furthermore, the arrival of The Age of Information Technology is dynamically altering communication process and fragmenting its’ environment (Adriopoulos and Dawson, 2006). Social media communications,
marketing
communications’
based
in
online
interactive
communities, is currently used by majority of brand marketers (Ellerin and Geiss, 2008). A set of technological processes and capabilities, and culture shaping phenomena, only brings value through positive impact on brand and its’ profitability (Level5, 2010). It is often mistaken for building far-off connections, while majority of users have more intense interactions regarding and with their local off-line environment (Euro RSCG World, 2010).
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The focus of this paper will be on global mid-market fashion brands’ opportunities to revolutionize their social-media communications process through its’ localized customization. It is written from the perspective of aiding the practices of marketing practitioners within the customer relationships element of the business model. Identification of best practice is based on the strategies of global Absolut Vodka and local business Frame. The choice of the subjects is based on merging practice from global players with insight into expertise of a brand with a local focus, also as smaller organizations possess innovation advantages – rapid decision making, organizational flexibility, agility, lack of strategic preconceptions – which large players find more difficult to introduce (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009).
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2) Localization of The Consumer Sentiment: External Stimuli and Their Strategic Implications Innovation requires various knowledge and observation for successful configuration of those (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009). A PESTLE framework (Lynch, 2006) identifies stimuli leading to a radical paradigm discontinuity (Fig.1) in consumer sentiment from global to local brands. After three decades of global brand domination, peripheral trends move into the mainstream altering its’ operating rules (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009; Holt, 2004). Fig.1) Consumer Sentiment - A Radical Paradigm Shift Need Driver (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009: 13)
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2.1) Localization of The Consumer Sentiment: PESTLE Based External Stimuli Analysis Business intelligence services name urbanization as leading to the remarkable change in consumer behavior (Trendwatching, 2011; Intebrand, 2011). Half of the world’s population lives in urban areas and the number is growing. Localization is predominantly an urban movement (Hess, 2009). Trendwatching (2011) notes that urban consumers, ought to be a key target market for businesses due to greater wealth and readiness to spend in comparison to their out-of-town counterparts. Open-mindedness makes likely early adopters, easily reached by brands’ message due to keen attitude towards new communication technologies. Capturing this market segment requires a new business model elements through understanding its’ requirements: need for direct communication by brands as urbanites and as city-by-city community members (Trendwatching, 2011). A prominent trend forecaster, Li Edelkoort, claims the source of consumer shift from global to local lies in countering the human fear of unprecedented implications of global financial crisis, urban anonymity and overpowering impact of technology through old values, re-centering on local environment and real relations and community spirit (Wendren, 2009). A consumer study (Kale and Zlatevska, 2009) also names the above and globalization as drivers of the growth of selective localized consumption, which - due to deterretorialization of social, political and cultural practices, increased migration and detachment from traditional family model – becomes a means to restoration of consumer identity previously linked to native places.
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Fig.2) Localization of Consumer Sentiment: PESTLE ANALYSIS
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Fashioning Innovation and Leadership – Katarzyna Olivier
2.2) Localization of Consumer Sentiment: Global Brand Strategic Implications The localized consumption being a means to consumer identity creation, is critical for brands, for which, according to Aaker (2010), their identity – built through product, organizational capabilities, brand personality and symbolism - becoming an extension of consumers’ own is the most valuable form of involving and sustaining customer engagement. While Holt (2004) claims global brands will retain greater loyalty and competitiveness - through being a part of cultural myths, competitive pricing and quality assurance despite increasingly negative consumer perception, he suggests focus on localized marketing strategies. The local focus of global brands ought to be on product and communication customization (Holt, 2004). Global brands; using broad lifestyle identities and attitude branding, targeted to project connection with experiences not ownership (Gupta, 2009) over the past 20 years; require change: fragmentation of communications for ‘community-related branding’. This strategy radically narrows the positioning in consumer minds (Fig.3) through new perception of, according to Kotler et al (2009), outputs of the marketing mix as diffused, tailored and separated. From the perspective of innovation, a competitive advantage lays predominantly in lesser resource constraints for implementation of new strategies in comparison to local competition (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009).
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Fig.3) Radical Perceived Positioning Shift: From Global to Local Focus (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009: 13)
Marketing-communications is, as suggested by Kotler et al (2009), the most effective channel for localization of global brands. Especially the Internet – base for social media communications - introduces the largest scope for process innovation: rich services – deep, specific, highly customized – with high level of fragmentation, yet a global reach (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009). Social media is a tool for driving revenue and competitive advantage (Level5, 2010), therefore needs strategic alliance with consumer preferences. Global brands’ locally tailored communications, competitive against local brands, must account for a shift in mental positioning. Global brand at the centre of its’ community, is a platform of integration and identification between its’ members (Wiegandt, 2009). ‘Community branding’ is, in contrast, based around a central 8
Fashioning Innovation and Leadership – Katarzyna Olivier
existing group with an existing identity (Kapferer, 2004). The brand stops being the environment and becomes a part of the communities’ environment. The brand must ‘put itself at a disposal of the community’ (Kapferer, 2004: 150), and must work to earn its’ place within it (Interbrand, 2011). Social-media tools enable successful paradigm innovation through communities’ direct feedback and involvement throughout the process (Evans and McKee, 2010). Furthermore, certain locations – cities (e.g. London) and neighborhoods (e.g. Notting Hill) – have become distinct, often fashion-associated, brands within their own right, worth co-branding with (Vicari-Haddock, 2010). Brands’ participation in such communities, often only through store placement, is a key to conveying and reinforcing meanings associated with the brand on a local level (Vicari-Haddock, 2010).
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3) Localization and The Fashion Retail According to Bruce, Moore and Birtwistle (2003), international fashion retailers have been acting upon the consumer backlash against ‘faceless’, globalized brand experience and attempting localized customization. The authors showcase that strategy innovation brought significant challenges: consistency of brand positioning and scale economies of customization (ibid.). Product customization is recognized as lacking cost-effectiveness, but adaptive experience and communications singled out as the key differentiator of successful companies of the future (Bruce, Moore, Birtwistle, 2003). The case studies showed that luxury brands with high net margins could afford budgets for local customization. Other global fashion retailers had to standardize to minimize costs and increase profitability (Bruce, Moore, Birtwistle, 2003). Current trend for mass customization of products leads mid-market’s focus to product tailoring to broad local markets such as Asia, Middle East or Eastern Europe or, in marketing communications: local publicity (Saxena, 2009). Otherwise, fashion brands are a group with the highest international strategic focus, looking to access groups of shared lifestyle and attitude independent of the geo-location (Hince and Bruce, 2006; Interbrand, 2011). Facing a consumer sentiment shift, the globalization of fashion brands brings key disadvantages: non-identification with market trends leading to consumer demotivation and lack of commitment (Hince and Bruce, 2006). Therefore, global mid-market fashion brands need to consider strategies providing a platform for a directional shift to community branding, as relating to local knowledge of consumer culture will be one of the decisive elements of a competitive advantage for large retailers, done most cost-effectively through social media technology based strategies (Krafft and Mantrala, 2010, Interbrand, 2011).
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4) Community Brands: Localized Social Media Marketing Communications in Practice Recently global consumer brands embarked on community branding, focusing on connection
through
urban
geo-locations
(Trendwatching,
2011),
proving
internationalized approach from majority of global fashion brands is a sign of not responding with innovation to stimuli from the market trends. 4.1) Absolut: A Global Member of Local Communities (Appendix 1) Absolut Vodka manages a radical positioning and paradigm change through only ‘first order’ incremental innovation to social media communication process. For strategically and organizationally less flexible global brands, incremental innovation, adaptive movement refining existing structures and processes, often proves easier to implement (Adriopoulos and Dawson, 2006). Absolut has long recognized certain communities, such as New Yorkers, as being a key to its’ success through incorporating the brand into own identity symbols, and simply high sales (Kapferer, 2004). Therefore, in the 80’s and 90’s focused on honoring them by locally named limited edition products such as Absolut Manhattan (Fig.5). The brand putting itself within a local context, facilitated its’ participation within communities through situating its’ advertising and events & expereinces within their communication networks such as cultural events or urban spaces (Rectanus, 2002). These marketing efforts – common brand themes, objectives and associations but individual campaigns - were a key driver for Absolut to become best-selling premium vodka in the U.S (Czinkota and Ronkainen, 2003).
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Fig.5) Absolut Cities Advertising Campaign Images (Czinkota and Ronkainen, 2003: 393)
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Currently, the brand is re-utilizing the Absolut Cities concept to achieve a radical positioning and paradigm innovation (Fig.6): brand as a specific community member rather than just, as in the 00’s, facilitator of a global community of affluent, quirky intellectuals and fans of the underground culture (Rectanus, 2002). An incremental change in product: locally inspired and named flavors instead of re-naming existing flavors; and process innovation: limited-location distribution, were important (Trendwatching, 2011). However, cost-effective tools of social media marketing were key to the project. Utilizing existing social media platforms and strategies, Absolut introduced an incremental change within their communication process: city-specific sub-platforms. Fig.6) Absolut: Incremental Changes, Radical Positioning Change (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009: 13)
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AbsolutBrooklyn Facebook sub-platform (Absolut, 2011) (Fig.7), for instance, apart from focus on the product, merges elements of brand personality with personality of Brooklyn community as a brand. Fig.7) Absolut Brookly Facebook Page (Absolut, 2011)
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Absolut’s brand personality: trendy, off-beat, exciting, cool, adventurous, unique, artistic, independent and innovative (Franzen and Moriarty, 2008), are projected through persons (Spike Lee, Jay-Z), places (famous hang-outs) and phrases (Stoop) of local background, yet global recognition – co-branding with hippest U.S neighborhood, as dubbed by the likes of The Times (Sattin, 2006). This strategy avoids the distortion of the brand’s global image through local customization. Hyperlocal social media communications are also a new key source of profit from urban clusters, where localized knowledge spread through localized parts of social networks brings target’s immediate attention among information clutter (Hess, 2009). Furthermore, local consumers are encouraged to use the platform, alongside the brand’s LovesBrooklyn Twitter and BrooklynStoop blog, to exchange local news, observations, memories, favorite places and other community related issues. Encouraging brand’s consumer co-creation, firmly places the brand as an enhancer of the communities’ lifestyle rather than a purely consumer product brand – a radical mental model innovation (Fig.8). Fig.8) Absolut: Incremental Change, Radical Paradigm Shift (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009: 13)
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This innovative approach to brand - consumer exchange shifts the purpose from traditionally focused on extraction of economic value to co-creation of experiences, improving the quality of the exchange in consumers’ minds (Prahalad and Ramaswamy, 2007). Experience innovation through emotional and intellectual involvement of communities in brand co-creation, using new communication technologies, is more beneficial to brands in the long-term than product or process innovations (Prahalad and Ramaswamy, 2007). Experience innovation introduces issues global brands must tackle. Involving communities in brand communications can shape in unpredictable ways and, therefore, needs brand moderation (Prahalad and Ramaswamy, 2007). It may prove difficult to introduce locally relevant and engaging content from a centralized marketing department as use of any form of technology on its’ own does not guarantee strategic success (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009), and is only an enabler of such targeted communications. Secondly, there is an issue of trust. Consumertargets of experience co-creation are weary of credibility of global giants communication intentions (Prahalad and Ramaswamy, 2007).
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4.2) Frame: From a Fitness Studio to Community Lifestyle Enhancer (Appendix 2) Frame, a local dance and fitness studio from London’s Shoreditch, makes being part of the community – ‘greatest little suburb in the entire world’ (Frame, 2011) – into a large part of its’ brand identity. Frame shifted its’ mental business model from a fitness studio to community lifestyle enhancer, through using social media platforms to talk about community related topics (Fig.9). Fig.9) Frame Blog (Frame, 2011a)
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This radical paradigm shift was achieved through an incremental change in the social media communications process (Fig.10). Instead of just the marketing team communicating with the customers via social media platforms, management involved the on-site staff (receptionists, instructors) in creating and posting locally relevant talking points and news. Fig.10) Frame’s Innovation Model
Involving the on-site staff, brought social media talking points combining top-down marketing strategy with relevant local content derived from staff’s first-hand observation of the local environment (e.g. new gallery spotted on their lunchbreak), and co-created by customers through direct feeding of the local news during interactions with the staff, are achieved. Another benefit of staff’s direct involvement in interactive online communications is introduction of benefits of personal selling. While personal selling is an individually
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tailored person-to-person persuasive communication process (Koekemoer and Bird, 2004), it can be argued that staff’s personal relations with customers has a similar impact. Koekemoer and Bird’s (2004) list of benefits involves several of them. Firstly, the talking points on social media are a Tailored Message, where a specific customer group is informed about issues relevant to them, as based around staff’s previous communication with them and geo-location. Secondly, staff – customer personal relation leads to Obligation Through Relationship Building, where communication targets pay increased attention and credibility rate to being communicated to by someone they had a repetitive face-to-face interaction with. This counters the issue of lack of consumer trust in ‘faceless’ organization to customer communication and experience co-creation. This strategy is also used by large brands, like Whole Foods, enabling store specific Twitter profiles for staff to communicate on a local level (Ellerin and Geiss, 2009).
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5) Fashionising Community Brands: Application of Localized Social Media Communications to Global Mid-Market Fashion Retailers’ Practices Strategies for global mid-market fashion retailers facing localization of consumer sentiment do not need to differ from those of other consumer brands; it is the message’s content that needs only partial fashionising (Fig.10). Many non-fashion brands took on characteristics pioneered by fashion brands as an alternative reach to customers: anchoring communication topics across non-product-related lifestyle aspects (Tungate, 2005). Using incremental innovation to their strategies for social media communications, global fashion retailers should aim to radically shift perceived positioning from global to local; and brand mental model from brand as community creator to brand as an existing communities’ lifestyle enhancer. Fig.10) Localized Lifestyle Community Branding Example – Tory Burch City Guides (Tory Burch, 2011)
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Despite high social media activity, global mid-market fashion retailers (e.g. Gap, Zara, Topshop) devote the highest volume of social media talking points to product and price promotion (Attentio, 2010), while social media accounts need to offer content different to transactional websites to attract customers (Mintel, 2011). Targeting urban clusters to reach customers closest local online loop is, for all retailers, becoming co-citizens (Interbrand, 2011a), using social media to share not sell (Interbrand, 2011). Fashion’s difference lays in profitability’s higher direct correlation with perceived social acceptance of brand associations (Weimann, 1994). In order to exemplify introduction of the innovation process to social media communication strategies, a mock marketing communications idea boards were prepared for Gap London(Fig.12 - 15). The brand choice is based on its’ already existing interest in city-specific social media communications (Gap, 2011). Introduction of key-city-specific Facebook sub-platforms is a means to achieving the objective, initially – in a testing phase - targeting only the largest, most profitable, fashion-associated cities per country (e.g. London, New York, Paris) (Fig.11). These urban giants are key drivers of consumer spending (Trendwatching, 2011). By analyzing specific brand identity elements, communicated in the brand message, equivalents in the city’s environment, from places/ events and influential persons to music/ films (Fig.10), fashion brands could enable localized social media talking points leading to non-direct sales. 42% of Facebook users pay attention to newsrelated posts, as opposed to 13% looking for brand/ product offers (Mintel, 2011).
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Fig.11) Gap Brand Identity Communication Topics Equivalents in London Examples
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Fig.12) Gap-City Facebook Sub-Platfroms: London vs. New York (Sample)
This could be done through store staff involvement. Setting up an idea generation brand internal blog, a social media tool, where local employees share their local and customer knowledge, would enrich and simplify the research for innovation process. Social media connects peoples’ knowledge to create an innovation from an idea (Kelley, 2010), effective team involvement is a key component of innovative organization (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009). 23
Fashioning Innovation and Leadership – Katarzyna Olivier
The brand could curate the content, prior to passing onto social media followers, ensuring leveraging right brand associations of broad perceived social acceptance and placing it within a brand/fashion-related context (Fig.12). Fig.13) Gap-London Facebook Platfrom Sample Curated Content
Simultaneously, a curated consumer co-creation on the sub-platforms should be encouraged (Fig.13). Social media engagement is about dialogue and selfexpression for external admiration (Euro RSCG World, 2010). Competitions allowing representation of branded fashion within city-specific styling context or mapping
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brand personality related fashionable urban journeys could allow editing of usergenerated content in order to avoid brand associations distortion. Fig.14) Gap-London Sample Curated Customer Co-Creation of Facebook Platform
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Additionally, store-staff involvement should be exercised through introducing storespecific Twitter profiles (Fig.16). Localized communication of new product arrivals, instore rebates, staff’s styling tips would gain more attention, some of the benefits of personal selling and drive in-store traffic. Fig.15) Sample Gap-Store Twitter Profile
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The implementation of the discussed innovation by any global mid-market fashion brand ought to follow the following steps of integrated innovation (Table 5.1): Table 5.1) Integrated Innovation Steps for Localizing Social Media Marketing Communications Integrated Innovation Steps Planning
Pipeline
Strategic Issues Which cities and stores to target first? Resource allocation: is the innovation to be likely to be sustainable long-term or is it just a PR exercise? ! How to ensure control over a local content’s alignment with global brand identity and communications guidelines? ! How to implement staff knowledge about the brand? ! Are there enough human and IT resources on a national and store level to implement the innovation? City Facebook/ Blog Sub-platform Delivery: ! !
Golbal Mar-Comm HQ -> National Marcom/ PR Dept -> Public National Mar-Comm/ PR <-> Local Employees/ Staff Store Twitter Profiles Delivery: Golbal Mar-Comm HQ -> National Marcom/ PR Dept -> Store Staff -> Public Process
Global Marketing Communication Department: ! !
! 27
Decide which cities and stores will be the first to implement and test the social media localization Provide National Marketing Communications/ PR Departments with visual specifications of for the localized communication platforms and general talking points guidelines that ought to be put within the local context Provide enough financial resources for enough
Fashioning Innovation and Leadership â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Katarzyna Olivier
employees and IT equipment, as well as staff training National Marketing Communications: ! ! ! ! Platform
!
Design local communication platforms Set-up and audit a local content idea generation blog co-created by store-staff Choose locally relevant talking points following the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s global agenda, identity, etc. Store Manager training in running Twitter profiles, brand associations and content creation City-Specific Facebook Sub-platform or Blog linked to the transactional website
! People
Performance
Global Marketing Communications Head Office ought to consider involvement of local Marketing Communications department/ PR department in running the social media sub-platforms, while all employee (including store staff) training/ memoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s should be implemented regarding the brad identity and associations regarding both internal idea generation blog and store-specific Twitter profiles. Performance of the implemented innovation ought to be measured in several ways: ! ! !
28
Store-specific Twitter Profiles
Changes to social media platform traffic and level of customer activity on those Measuring sales in cities targeted by the new communications PR value of the new social media communications
Fashioning Innovation and Leadership â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Katarzyna Olivier
6) Conclusions The pace of change within and outside organizations is constantly growing, making innovation key to market leadership in increasingly competitive environment (Bessant, Pavitt and Tidd, 2009). Brands evolving with their customer in the age of interactive media channels (social netowrks, blogs) are likely to be the leaders of the future (Sitati, 2009), while others are putting their organizational survival at stake. A mid-market global fashion retailer adopting the discussed ways of incremental process innovation to social media communications, in order to achieve a radical positioning and paradigm innovation, would gain a competitive advantage over immediate â&#x20AC;&#x201C; both local and global - competition and several key benefits on the local level: !
Increased profitability through leveraging relevance to new consumer sentiment and sustaining customer engagement
!
Maintaining scale economies of standardization, while delivering a rich, tailored service through the most cost-effective of the marketing mix elements with regards to customization
!
Improvement of perception of brand-customer exchange through encouraging locally relevant co-creation and dialogue instead of direct selling
!
Cutting through media noise by grabbing customer attention through locally relevant, non-directly sales-related message
!
Bringing benefits of Personal Selling into online communications via Twitter
!
Increasing perceived quality through value-added activities previously specific to high-end fashion brands
!
Translation and reinforcement of brand associations on a local level through city co-branding
Mid-market of the fashion industry once delivered to full extent of customer expectations through productsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; low prices and fast trend turnover (Bruce, Moore and Birtwistle, 2003), however for those to succeed in the marketplace innovation of symbolic meaning is required: compatible with new consumer habits. Experience innovation is the one to drive sales at the moment. 29
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