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Spring 2013 | 1
W Wadi Rum, H.K. of Jordan. Photo: Rob Williams
Kayla Hedman
Assiduous Student .tumblr.com
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Publisher / Editor
Kayla M. Hedman ’14 kayla.hedman@mymail.champlain.edu Office: 802.865.5727
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Contributing Writers Abbie Clark ’13 Skyler Veselis ’13 Adam Rowe ’14 Brandon Jones ’14
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Design Nicole Egan ’14
elcome to the inaugural issue of Champlain International! This digital magazine features stories of undergraduate students at Champlain College in Burlington, Vermont as they gain global perspective in part to course curriculum, study abroad experiences in Dublin, Montreal, and the like; as well as leisurely travels, international internships, and service-learning trips. Students are eager to share their stories in relation to Champlain International Education’s three focus points: • Explore • Immerse • Engage When I started this project in late February, I imagined a magazine for students like me last year–interested in traveling, but not sure where to start. I was too nervous to spend an entire semester abroad, and I couldn’t decide where I wanted to go if I overcame my anxiety. My solution? Take a Core-330 class that allowed me to go somewhere I never dreamed of going: Beijing, China. I loved it so much last November, I applied and was accepted to spend the summer in Shanghai for a business internship with 13 other Champlain students, funded by a grant from the Freeman Foundation. The travel bug was making me itch though; I couldn’t wait until summer. I decided to take another Core-330 class in the spring semester. The itinerary for this course featured a trip to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan over spring break. After this trip, I wanted to share a compilation of my classmates’ and my own top revelations–our top takeaways from the trip. One always goes into a journey with certain expectations, stereotypes, and anxieties, but my classmates and I will share how these soon changed upon our arrival. In an effort to produce enough content for my first issue, I called upon the help of the members of Dr. Rob William’s JordanMojo Core-330 course, to publish students’ work about their adventures in Jordan in March. They share their revelations, creative projects, memorabilia, and personal interests with you. They will take us through the Jordanian oriental cuisine, Arabic language, ancient architecture, and introduce us to the Circassians. This Jordan issue is sure to change your perception of the Middle East. You’ll also meet two Champlain students studying abroad this semester: one in London and the second at Champlain’s Dublin campus. With pride, I present the first issue of Champlain International Magazine. Cheers,
Kayla Marie Hedman ’14 Editor-in-cheif
Z Champlain International Magazine is a publication of Assiduous Student Media, combining the creative minds of Champlain students from various areas of the world. Questions and letters to the editor can be submitted to kayla.hedman@mymail.champlain.edu. All submissions must be attributed and may be edited for concision and fluency.
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Contents
Champlain International Magazine | Spring 2013 | Issue 1 p8
p 20
Profile A Semester Abroad Studying in Dublin
8 16
Feature Stories Watch Along Essay Chasing Dream Balloons Top Revelations
12 14 23
Culture Turkish Bath Jordanian Food Circassians Jordan Through Film
9 10 18 20
In Every Issue Travel Notables Social Media en route Photo Essay Movies
4 5 6 17
Contributors
Abbie Clark ’13, Professional Writing Blogger, Travel Writer chasingdreamballoons.com
Jeremy Allmendinger ’14, Professional Writing Blogger, International Correspondent, Dublin pavlovshairconditioner.com
Nicole Egan ’14, Graphic Design Logo design nicoleegan.com Spring 2013 | 3
In Every Issue “I saw my first Flamenco show at La Rocio Flamenco Cave in Granada. All in all, the experience was 10/10. The show was intimate, well done, and totally amazing. You
could see every expression on the dancers’ faces and they were so committed to what they were doing. It was amazing to see such an important part of Andalusian culture performed in such an expressive and intimate way.” -Alaina Cellini ’14, International Business Major, Spain http://alainacellini.wordpress.com/
Travel Notables
Compiled by Kayla Hedman ‘14
“Dublin and Burlington are obviously different.
They are however similar, in one very important way: the sense of community. When
I first came to Dublin, I didn’t know what to expect out of the people. Dublin really does just feel like a bigger Burlington – there’s more stuff to do and see, but the people are just as friendly and willing to help you out.”
“Montreal
is the largest Francophone city in North America. In
addition, it’s the second largest French-speaking city in the world in terms of nativelanguage French-speakers, coming in after Paris. That being said, speaking only -Lydia Hill ’14, Communications Major English in a city like Montreal 4 | Champlain International Magazine
can feel a bit awkward and can have its downfalls. One can get by living here and speaking no French, but it really closes off a lot of opportunities including potential jobs, internships, friendships, relationships, and so on.” -Lindsey DeBerry ’14, Professional Writing and Graphic Design
Gaining Global Perspective
@abigaileclark via Instagram
@drrobwilliams via Instagram
In Every Issue
@adamrowe via Instagram
Social Media en route Before boarding our flight to Amman, Jordan, Professor Rob Williams organized a photo in front of the Jordanian travel banner, holding our “Our Last Best Chance” books, written by King Abdullah II. This simple gesture would end up becoming a Twitter Picture, sent to Abdullah’s wife Queen Rania with the caption, “Here we come from @ChamplainColleg!” Soon after settling in with our host families on the first night, the conversation turned to Facebook. We shared photos of our family and Champlain College, expressed our different tastes in music and pop culture, and quickly became aware of how small the world has become since social media technology contributed to globalization.
“@macklemore Just heard a less edited Thrift Shop in Jordan. Way to go, Macklemore & Ryan Lewis” -@1girlfrommaine
Jordanians Tweet, Instagram and Facebook just as any American would. In late April, Professor Williams and PH International hosted a group of 26 international high school students, educating them about how to use social media for social change. This is proof that social media is becoming a norm worldwide.
While listening to the bus radio on the first day in Amman, Jordan, the ever popular hit “Thrift Shop” came on the radio. We couldn’t help but Tweet him as soon as we got a bit of WiFi.
Read more about how Teens learn to use social media for a good cause in the Burlington Free Press article.
Spring 2013 | 5
In Every Issue
6 | Champlain International Magazine
Photo
Essay
Ancient columns stand at attention like old military colonials. For over 6,500 years these columns have gained wrinkles, creating cracks that go deeper than the surface. Parts of the columns have fallen away, but the ruins of Jerash still stand. Conquered by the Romans in 63 BC, Gerasa, now Jerash became a haven away from home for the Italians. With amphitheaters, temples, public squares, baths and even fountains, Jerash became a Roman sanctuary in the Jordanian deserts. The city was abandoned during the Crusades and covered in sand over time. Excavations are still taking place as teams of archaeologists slowly dig up these ancient ruins. Many ruins have already been uncovered, including the unfinished Hadrian’s Arch, the Oval Plaza, the North and South Theaters, the Nymphaeum (an ornamented fountain dedicated to the Nymphs) and the Hippodrome. As part of their tourism and restoration efforts, the Jerash Heritage Company hosts a Roman Army and Chariot Experience daily in the hippodrome. Gladiators “fight to the death” as they show off ancient battle techniques. A year ago I spent my spring break in Italy, seeing the Pantheon, the Colosseum and random ruins have are scattered through Rome’s urbanized streets. Almost to the day that I left for Italy, I arrived in Jordan. Jerash is my Roman oasis in the Middle East. Z Abbie Clark
Spring 2013 | 7
Profile
Third-party study abroad experience
1. Favorite landscape: The Gullfoss waterfall was by far the best form of landscape I have ever seen. I couldn’t stop taking pictures of it! (Iceland)
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2. Best thing that happened: Getting proposed to on the tower bridge! 3. Favorite breakfast restaurant: This was one of the most beautiful looking breakfasts I have ever been served. The scrambled eggs looked like soft delicate ribbon. (at Granger & Co., London)
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4. Something I’ll never forget: Seeing the northern lights, definitely a once in a lifetime opportunity.
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Jess Hopkins How London Changed Her Life
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5. Most amazing art to see in person: I have been lucky to see many amazing pieces of art, but Monet always blows me away. (at The National Gallery, London) 6. New friends: This is my friend Emily and me. She is the most amazing person and the greatest friend I have made while in London. We do everything together. It’s weird and kind of sad to think that once we leave we don’t know the next time we’ll be able to see each other again. The picture on the left is of us at one of our favorite bars, and the one on the right is of us at Borough Market eating the best cheese sandwiches, ever! 7. Biggest accomplishment: Finally seeing Jim Morrison’s grave and giving him a flower. (in France)
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6 Follow Champlain’s study abroad pinboard on Pinterest | pinterest.com/champlainnews/
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Culture
T
he faucet is leaking. There is a constant dribble of droplets falling into the overflowing sink near the opened door. I could go back in the steam room and sit on the bench with my back against the condensationed tiles, but I was overheating in there. Sweat was pouring down my face and collecting on my arms and legs; after 20 minutes, my body couldn’t handle it anymore so I sat in what I could only assume was a renovated locker room posing as a waiting room. Up the street from Petra, in Wadi Musa, was the Amra Palace Hotel. I had been exploring “Little Petra” all day, and in a constant mode of travel for the last four. It was time to treat myself to some ancient pampering. Originating in the Middle East, Turkish baths combine “exposure to warm air, steam immersion, massage, and a cold bath or shower.” My experience was adapted slightly. The bathhouse was short staffed with only one woman on-duty and there were four of us waiting eagerly. Admitted in twos, we were first sent into the steam room. The steam is so thick, it’s hard to see. I try to talk to my friend, Kayla, sitting beside me but there’s a sharp pain in the back of my throat. The air is heavy and it’s hard to breathe, but it gets easier when the fog dissipates. There is only so long one can sit and feel the water evaporate from every pore in their body, so we move to the waiting room. The steam from the sauna seeps into the big tiled room, but the opened door sends in a steady stream of cold air. The room is lined with the same wooden benches that were inside the sauna. They are so deep I can sit with my back against the cool tiles and my feet just barely reach the end of the bench. A short, petite woman in a long black dress with threequarter length sleeves and matching hijab brings Kayla to the readied room. I sit and wait while Kayla is splashed, scrubbed, and rubbed for my turn. This same woman comes in to get me when it’s my turn, bringing me to another tiled room across the hall.
Splashed,
Scrubbed,
& Rubbed
The Intimate Story of a Turkish Bath
“Off, please,” she says, motioning towards my one-piece.
“Off, like completely?” I say incredulously. What have I gotten myself into? She lets me get away with pushing it down as if it’s just a bottom and has me sit down on another wooden bench. She turns on a faucet for a sink that looks just like the one in the waiting room, and dips the metal bowl into it. Before I could think anything of it, the water is poured over me. This is the scrubbing room. Bowl after bowl is poured over my arms, my legs, my back, my head. She starts scrubbing off the layers of dead skin from the soles of my feet, the palms of my hands. She scrubs every part of my body. I could tell, though, that the woman was frustrated with my bathing suit. Before we move to the next room, she throws more water on me and asks for me to remove my bathing suit completely. I will clarify that if you are wearing a two-piece, this wouldn’t happen. For a woman’s privacy, women are allowed to keep their bottoms on, but there is a massage involved, and the bulky fabric of a one piece makes that very hard to do. I comply and wrap the thin towel around my body. The next room has a long wooden table that she lays my towel down on. “Lie down like this, please,” motioning to cross my arms. More water is poured on my body and it is time for the massage. With a soapy cloth, she washes and massages my calves and back. She has me turn over and it feels as though this woman is trying to sculpt my hips in such a way that
my love handles disappear. Entwining her fingers between my toes, she rotates my foot; I feel it crack every time it makes a complete circle. She does the same to my hand and pulls it above my head, rotating it in its socket. She digs in to the pressure points in my neck, temporarily relieving the stress from carrying
my backpack around. More warm water is poured over me to wash away the suds. It’s over sooner than I want and I’m brought to an actual waiting room that feels air conditioned compared to where I’ve been for the last hour and a half. She brings me traditional Turkish tea and tells me to take my time and revel in my relaxation. I am in southern Jordan near the desert. I have just had a Turkish massage. Now all I want is to compare this experience to the real deal in Turkey, to see how much this strays from the true ancient bath.
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Abbie Clark
Spring 2013 | 9
Culture
Jordan’s Edible Wonders
Jordanian Chinese There were people everywhere. I felt like a celebrity with a hundred or so faces staring at me. Some had cameras, others had signs; most just craned their necks searching for their families, or were there for sport. Before I could ask about the crowd, we were thrown into the sunshine. The air felt hazy and full of cigarette smoke, not thick and foggy like China, but as if there was a light misting of ash floating in the air. When we left New York, the stars had already been in the sky for four hours; fourteen hours later, my group of ten Americans had landed safely in Amman, Jordan. >> 10 | Champlain International Magazine
Hustled on to a bus with the sun quickly falling behind us, we drove to Raghda Quandour’s apartment. Raghda was a petite Circassian with a two-story apartment that would become our basecamp. As soon as we arrived, our home stays slowly poured in. I was nervous to meet who I would be spending four days with. I had been in contact with my host family, the Abazas, before my arrival. I knew that there were four children: Lima, Liza, Renata, and Raued. I knew that Raued was in Russia studying computer engineering, and that was about it. Two of the Abaza girls walked in. With their dark wash skinny jeans and ballet flats, I felt at home. If there were two things I could connect with them on, it was fashion and our age. Before I could meet the other host families, it was time to leave. Dinner was waiting. In the car was Mamma Maissa, one of the kindest women I have ever met. After brief introductions, she said, “Were there girls who didn’t have a homestay?” I explained that one of the students, Kayla didn’t have a homestay, and due to a medical emergency at her homestay, Miriam Horne, one of the professors, was short a bed as well. We were halfway home, but Lima quickly got on the phone, asking to host Kayla as well. I looked out the window trying to see if retracing our steps looked familiar, but every building looked the same: undecorated cement buildings, some with porches, most with grid-lined windows. Most of the streets were unnamed and seemed to loop in circles around blocks. Gathering Kayla and her belongings, we were quickly back on track for dinner. “Are you hungry?” Mamma Maissa asked. “Yes!” we said in unison. “Well, I made Chinese food. Jordanian Chinese food,” Mamma Maissa said. I imagined being close to China that Jordanian Chinese food would at least be healthier than the gelatinous food we call “cuisine” back home. Higher on sodium, the food was salty, but
full of carrots, corn, peppers, green beans, onions, and spices. The white rice that the spiced vegetables rested on had sweet roasted almonds. “Is it too spicy? Salty? What kind of oriental food do you prefer? Anything specific you’d like for dinner tomorrow?” Most of the dinner discussion revolved around food, what we’d like for breakfast and the traditional meals of the area. They went on and on about Knafeh, a traditional Jordanian dish, mouths watering while they talked. We ended the night on a sweet note: flan or crème caramel as they called it, and a cup of chamomile tea. Pulling out photos of their childhood and asking to see ours, I looked forward to making lasting memories of my own here.
Eating with my Hands It was pitch black. The clock read 6:30, but it was an hour and a half off. This was the first and only morning I heard the 5am call to prayer. I tried to fall back asleep, but it was time to give up. Unfortunately, I woke Kayla up in the process. “Would you like tea or coffee, earlybird?” Redwan, the head of the Abaza household made us tea and explained the morning prayers. Redwan left for the mosque, while Liza sat at the table journeling. Her script was so beautiful and flowed elegantly together. “Could you teach me?” I begged. She taught me how to write the alphabet, my name and a few words in Arabic. The sun started to rise so we gathered our jackets and went to watch from the roof. It was chilly, and the landscape looked like it would be dry and arid; it felt the exact opposite. Haze and other buildings blocked the view to Mecca and East Jerusalem, but the sun rose over the closest blue dome and
turrets of the neighborhood mosque. Prayers ended and the men walked out of the mosque. Soon Redwan joined us, showing us his city. Coming downstairs, the sun created condensation on all of the windows. We spoke of family, past and present. One of Redwan’s grandparents lived to be 120 years old. He said many family members died in their 100’s and 90’s. “The secret is olive oil and red wine.” My family doesn’t have a history of longevity, but maybe I could change that. I wanted to learn and implement their diet. While Kayla and I spoke with Redwan, Liza and Mamma Maissa set the table for breakfast. There was a bowl of olives, green and brown, round and oblong, pitted. There was a bowl of “milk cream,” which basically tasted like whipped cream, and a dipping plate of jelly. The pita bread looked like giant tortillas and the hummus had a pool of olive oil at the center. There was what can only be described as pico de gallo with beans, a bowl of tabouli, and a plate of fried eggs. The only thing missing was the silverware and plates. “Here, we eat with our hands,” Redwan said. Picking up a pita, I tried to grab some eggs, but couldn’t rip a piece off. I thought scooping t h i n g s may be easier and I reached for the bean dip. Oil dribbled down my hand and on to the table. I thought when in Jordan, do what Jordanians do, but that was easier said than done. It wasn’t until breakfast the next morning that I really got a hang of eating meals like Jordanians.
Z Abbie Clark Spring 2013 | 11
Feature Story
This interactive section of the magazine will bring you to digital filmmaking major Brandon Jones ‘14 Vimeo page.
Essay
Watch Along By Brandon Jones
As I studied the directions for our final paper, I realized I hit a partial wall. Our focus was to be on one specific thing, but my whole project in Jordan was to capture video. I got a lot of it, too. So much so, that I was left short clips of so many elements of Jordan that I couldn’t pick just one. So now I present, the world’s first (possibly) watchalong essay on the many aspect’s of the amazing country.
Visit: http://vimeo.com/64918128 0:14 The minarets, or mosque towers, were scattered all throughout the country. I expected to see some, don’t get me wrong, but I was amazed at the amount. From the large elaborate minaret in the heart of Amman, to the small metal minarets in the countryside, I was always impressed. I was also floored when I heard the calls to prayer. They were so unexpected, and I was amazed that the prayers could be heard from just about anywhere in the country. 0:18 Many of the gas stations in Jordan struck a peculiar chord for me. Several of the gas stations were incredibly “flashy”. They had flashing lights and music pumping out of their speakers. This was such a contrast in comparison to the sometimes desolate view of the desert landscape. I asked someone about them, and they merely told me that “gas is important.” 0:21 At several points in the video, I have shots of brands that have made the global market. They are common in the West, and they are common here. This is attributed to Jordan’s culture and its relationship with the West, but it was still eye opening nonetheless. 0:32 The refugee villages were jaw droppers. The amount of buildings that were packed into the hillside was unbelievable. Our tour guide mentioned that some of the best education comes out of the refugee areas, due to their want to be successful. 0:48 The ruins throughout Jordan are quite the sight. Jordan has done such a fine job at restoring and maintaining the sites, so it was a pleasure to see structures and art almost exactly how it was all those years ago. This particular shot of the stone hand and the buildings behind it really struck me. 1:02 In the word’s of Adam, “Jordan is safe!” Before the trip, Dr. Williams had eased my worries for my safety. Of course, being an American, I had some fears that I would be targeted in some sense. I never once felt unsafe in Jordan. Our security guard served more as a translator than anything, and most Jordanians were just interested in meeting us. 1:04 The market place was a great look at some of the culture in Jordan. Markets like the one we were in are by no only exist in Jordan, but the hustle and bustle style of it is what got me. There was plenty of shouting and hundreds if not thousands of foods to
12 | Champlain International Magazine
buy in a such a small area. 1:22 One of a few shots of food from my video. I must say, I’ve never eaten so good in one week before. Any place that serves pita and hummus for every meal gets an A++ in my book. Middle Eastern cuisine is now one of my favorite types of food to eat. Everything from appetizers to desserts was delectable. 1:36 Animals in Jordan were abundant. If camels are not the animal kings of Jordan, stray cats are. There was everything from lizards in the desert to chicken coop store fronts in the cities. 1:42 Art in Jordan, and the Middle East, is extremely important. It has such a unique and distinct style. One of my favorite encounters with art on the trip are these shots from the mosaic shop. The detail and craftsmanship in every piece was immaculate to say the least. It was simply raw art. These were my favorite shots from the trip. 2:03 The landscapes in jordan were captivating. There were so many different types of them on our trip from the north to the south. Forests, valleys, deserts and fields. 2:13 Tea and coffee are extremely common in Jordan. Almost every shopkeeper had some sort of drink on hand ready for customers. The tea was always so delectably sweet, and the coffee’s syrup was always such an interesting touch. It jumpstarted my tea kick for the last few weeks. 2:32 Petra is absolutely amazing. Period. 3:04 The bedouins were such a pleasant group of people to meet. They are a people who enjoy staying true to many of their old traditions. Even the ones who had shops in the heart of Petra would have a conversation with you before they tried to sell you something. Most would keep a smile on their face if you politely declined any purchases. 3:08 Wadi Rum is also absolutely amazing. Also period. 3:24 Camels were not nearly as frequent as I expected, but there were plenty of them. Luckily I had the chance to ride on for a bit. After learning about their role in travel, I understood why they were used so much. They were some of the most sturdy feeling animals, and my goodness were they tall. They were an amazing animals to be able to interact with.
Spring 2013 | 13
Feature Story One woman’s journey through her bucket list
Chasing Dream Balloons Blog post response: expectations vs. reality
Before: A lot of people asked me “why Jordan?” My answer: why not? I want to go to as many countries as possible in my lifetime, and why wouldn’t you want to go to one of the most ancient civilizations on Earth? Jordan is home to UNESCO World Heritage sites, has sites voted on National Geographic’s “28 Places to See Before You Die,” and has a monarch that showed the world his country in a Discovery Channel special. I have dreamed of floating in the Dead Sea, of riding a camel, of sleeping under the stars in the desert, which is why I jumped at the chance to travel to Jordan for 10 days through my college. As part of a mobile journalism course, Champlain College offers facultyled trips where a small group of students gets to travel abroad during Spring Break or Thanksgiving. Two years ago, I traveled to China with one of these classes and this week I will be heading to Jordan. The last two months I’ve been learning about the country, tourist sites and its neighboring countries. We’ve watched documentaries and brief Youtube clips, and read A History of Jordan by Philip Robins. I will explore the bazaars of Amman, walk the ancient cities of Petra (more can be read about my excitement in my blog post “Rockin’ the Lost City”), Karak and Jerash, float in the Dead Sea (“I Wanna Float Like Jesus”), and hike through Wadi Moujib and Wadi Rum. What I’m really excited about is tasting my way through the Middle Eastern culture. I want to find the best falafel and maybe, I’ll even get a recipe or two.
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“Would you like to ride a camel?” The Bedouin man was cloaked in what appeared to be heavy burlap material. The tob, or thobe, is a traditional “dress” made out of cotton. “No, thank you,” I said, looking down and trying to do anything but make awkward eye contact. “We rode them five hours ago.” For the last few days, I was one of eight students and two teachers traveling through Jordan. We were in the southern part of the country at the biggest tourist attraction: Petra. This UNESCO world heritage site is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, and the lost city of the Nabateans, later used by the Crusaders. The sun was starting to set and the long walk back from Al Dier (the Monastery) had staggered our group. One of the professors on the trip, Miriam Horne; Kayla Hedman; and I were leading the way.
Sixty Camels & A Wonder of the World
sury, we knew we were almost to the entry in Wadi Musa. “Miss, miss, why do you look Arab?” “Umm…. I don’t know,” I answered nervously. “Miss, you are beautiful. She is beautiful, right?” He asked Miriam. “What’s her name?” “Abbie,” said Miriam. “Abbie, will you stay with me here? You are very beautiful. I will give you 50, no, 60 camels,” he gestured to Miriam, “and you will get to stay here, in one of the Wonders of the World. Please, miss. How could you pass up this Wonder? Just imagine waking up to this,” he gestured towards the Treasury.
We passed a line of camels sitting in the shade, tired of walking in circles all morning. We felt sweaty from the 376 steps up to the Monastery and the hundred or so steps up another cliff to get a better view. We felt sticky from the breeze blowing through our shirts. Our feet hurt from trudging through the sand and ruined cobbled Roman roads. Seeing the Trea-
Crusader Castle
I turned as red as the thread in my keffiyeh. All I wanted was to get to the bus and empty my shoes of sand. The last few hours had been spent riding camels in front of the Treasury; traversing through the desert with the Jordanian sun beating down on us, burning my nose; and drinking Turkish tea with sage leaves. My knee hurt from climbing up a mountain side and walking into the tombs of the ancient lost city of Petra. I was dumbfounded by the Bedouin man, shocked that he found me beautiful when I knew I was sweaty with hair sticking everywhere, kohl dripping down my face, and out of breath. I still think he was just trying to get us to give him money for his shower of compliments. This man would not be the last Bedouin we would see, but who knew when I would get to see the place where all Jews are supposed to go to be saved from Armageddon. The sun cast the Treasury half in shadows, playing with the sandstone. Part of me wanted to walk around the Treasury again on a camel, but I would have another chance to ride one later. The camel looked bored, carrying the colorful, heavy rugs with pride; maybe, my extra load would make his time pass, or maybe, we should just let the camels get back to the herd. But, the group starts to move and we walk the last couple miles to the entrance. I take one last long look...
Crawling Around a
It felt as though we were the first people to traverse the 375 steps down into the mountain. Dust had piled up for over 300 years. It coated the floors, ceilings and walls. The dust was so thick that any tourist that walked down before us left no trace. The steps were steep and slip-
pery, worn down from hundreds of years of soldiers’ feet. There was no hand rail as the guide brought the eight of us down into the dark depths of the catacombs. I didn’t think the catacomb would end. Maybe it’s because, I didn’t want it to. Eventually though, we found a metal ladder emerging onto the side of the road, below the castle. Shobak Castle, also called Montreal, or “Royal Mountain,” is a Crusader ruin dating back to 1115 AD. The tunnel we took was essential to the castle’s survival while it was inhibited. Soldiers would use this pass down to a spring as not only an escape route, but as a way to surprise their enemies. In 1189, the castle fell to Saladin, after an 18-month siege. Later,
Shobak fell to the Mamluk Empire in 1250. Above this tunnel, were rooms filled with rocks, crumbling stairs, and stray cats. We explored every inch of Shobak castle, climbing up the turrets, exposing our bodies to the blistering wind. I watched as my friends’ hair blew into their face, limiting their view. I wore my recently purchased Keffiyeh to keep my hair under control. This thin barrier kept me warm as I found as many crooks and crannies as possible to crawl around.
Z Abbie Clark ‘13
Read more at chasingdreamballoons.com Business contact info
Spring 2013 | 15
Profile
Champlain’s Dublin Campus : Local Culture
Profile
Abroad
Walking from the apartments to the Academic Centre takes about half an hour. It’s a nice walk past antiques shops and small cafés, government buildings and historic churches. There is also a lot of graffiti. Now, I’m from a small town in Maine. The most impressive graffiti we have is a rock that gets painted to advertise school plays. So I don’t have huge amounts of experience with graffiti in the States. But Dublin’s graffiti never ceases to fascinate me. That said, I should clarify that neither Champlain College nor myself expresses a position, implied or otherwise, on the following content. It is presented solely for the purpose of education. As I said, I don’t know much about graffiti back home. But here it ranges from the charmingly absurd... (left)
This is either an artistic political statement on the scourge of capitalism, or someone just really hates Monopoly. …to the jarringly meaningful. (right) These graffiti artists really don’t hesitate to tell you exactly how they feel. Of course, Belfast and other areas of Northern Ireland are incredibly famous for their murals, which are often classified as “graffiti.” While the art of the North is incredibly provocative – indeed, much of it is expressly designed to incite strong emotion – Dublin’s graffiti is noteworthy in its own right. And these are just the ones I pass on my way to class.
This one is behind a security gate, and while I’m dedicated to providing you with superior content, getting arrested is not my favorite thing to do.
Jeremy Allmendinger 16 | Champlain International Magazine
Professional Writing ’14 Read more at http://pavlovshairconditioner.com/
In Every Issue
Movies of Jordan Did you know that Jordan’s movie industry is huge, and it’s only getting bigger? In 2003, Jordan developed the Royal Film Commission of Jordan to encourage filmmaking in the country and to train Jordanian filmmakers in the art of making cinema. Films by the Amman Filmmakers Cooperative have been well received internationally and won numerous awards. Here’s a list of movies either filmed in Jordan, or with accurate portrayals of Arab culture: • Hurt Locker (2008) - American war film about a three-man Explosive Ordnance Disposal (bomb disposal) team during the Iraq War. The film was shot in Jordan, within miles of the Iraqi border, to achieve Director Kathryn Bigelow’s goal of authenticity. The producer Greg Shapiro spoke about security concerns of filming in Jordan, “It was interesting telling people we were going to make the movie in Jordan because the first question everybody asked was about the security situation here.” Bigelow’s choice to film in the Kingdom met some resistance. In discussion, she found that her cast and crew shared stereotypes of the region from American culture. “Sadly people in America and Los Angeles have these perceptions,” she said. “But once you get off the plane you realize it’s like Manhattan without the trees,” she continued. As Iraq dominates discourse in America and across the world, Bigelow believes filmmakers will continue to explore the conflict, making Jordan the natural place to film. • Transformers: Rise of the Fallen (2009) - Four days of filming were spent in Jordan; the Royal Jordanian Air Force aided in filming at Petra, Wadi Rum and Salt because King Abdullah II is a big fan of science fiction movies. • Syriana (2005) - The film focuses on petroleum politics, and the global influence of the oil industry, whose political, economic, legal, and social effects are experienced by a Central Intelligence Agency operative (George Clooney), an energy analyst (Matt Damon), a Washington, D.C. attorney (Jeffrey Wright), and a young unemployed Pakistani migrant worker (Mazhar Munir) in an Arab state in the Persian Gulf. • Kingdom of Heaven (2005) - An epic action film set during the Crusades of the 12th century. A French village blacksmith goes to aid the Kingdom of Jerusalem in its defence against the Ayyubid Muslim sultan Saladin, who is battling to reclaim the city from the Christians leading to the Battle of Hattin. • Three Kings (1999) - A satirical war film written and directed by David O. Russell from a story by John Ridley about a gold heist that takes place during the 1991 Iraqi uprising against Saddam Hussein following the end of the first Gulf War. The film stars George Clooney, Mark Wahlberg, Ice Cube, and Spike Jonze. Boss. • Lawrence of Arabia (1961) - The film depicts Lawrence’s experiences in Arabia during World War I, in particular his attacks on Aqaba and Damascus and his involvement in the Arab National Council. The desert scenes were shot in Jordan, among other locations. The government of King Hussein was extremely helpful in providing logistical assistance, location scouting, transportation, and extras; Hussein himself visited the set several times during production and maintained cordial relationships with cast and crew. During the production of the film, Hussein met and married Toni Gardner, who was working as a switchboard operator in Aqaba. • Battle for Haditha (2007) - Shot in Jerash, Jordan, the film uses former U.S. Military personnel and Iraqi refugees to play many of the roles. • Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (1989) - Filming took place in the ancient city of Petra, Jordan, which stood in for the temple housing the Grail. The cast and crew became guests of King Hussein and Queen Noor after shooting. • Fair Game (2010) - A biographical film drama starring Naomi Watts and Sean Penn, based on Valerie Plame’s memoir, Fair Game: My Life as a Spy, My Betrayal by the White House, and Joseph C. Wilson’s memoir, The Politics of Truth: Inside the Lies that Led to War and Betrayed My Wife’s CIA Identity: A Diplomat’s Memoir.
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Culture
A Jordanian minority made a major impact on our trip.
Circassians
I
must admit, I hesitated to tell my parents that I was going to Jordan until a few months before. Prior to going I organized all of my paperwork and documents at home, cleaned my room, and connected with some old friends. At JFK airport I scanned the line as we waited to get checked in. On the plane I had trouble sleeping. But once we landed in Jordan, I knew there was no turning back. I was assured by many that it was a very safe country but thanks to US media I had a different image in my mind. As we sat at the gate I wrote in my journal saying, “I have to keep my mind open and live everyday of this trip to the fullest.” My concerns for my safety were largely based upon images and the reputation US media has built of the Middle East. For a large part of my life that region has been a war zone and the home to terrorists. We as Americans stereotype and it is something that I tried my hardest not to do on the trip. Besides my concerns on safety, I was extremely nervous
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about the individual home-stays that we were promised for the first two nights in the capital city of Amman. I had no clue what I was going into and of course could only imagine the worst. Reflecting back, my home stay was the best part of my trip and provided me with insight on a culture that I did not even know existed.
Meeting My Host Family
My host for my home-stay was Mohammad Quardan and his family. I knew the second he started singing “Call Me Maybe” that this was going to be a great trip. He picked me up from our group meeting location and we traveled across Amman to his house. It was quite the adventure as people drive like crazy in Jordan; however our bond was started during that ride. We made our quick introductions and figured out that we have many of the same interests and share a lot of the same ideals. As we pulled
Listen and learn, then join the discussion.
The Circassians
Although Mohammad has an Arab name, he, his family, and most of his friends are not really Arab. Yes, they speak Arabic and are Muslim, but culturally they are Circassian. Prior to my trip to Jordan I had never heard of the Circassian people. After looking into the culture one will find out that they were originally from the mountainous Caucasus’ that are now part of modern Russia. The Circassians were subject to an ethnic cleanse, and as a result are now scattered throughout the world. It just so happens however that many ended up leaving their homeland and settling in the Middle East including Jordan. Today they tend to be the upper class of Jordanian society and despite living in an Arab world they have managed to preserve their culture and the Circassians continue to thrive. Interestingly enough, our entire group stayed with Circassians. It is something that really positively impacted our time in Jordan. By the end of the trip I can honestly say that I felt like a part of Mohammad’s family and I am sure that my fellow classmates would agree with their respective host families. We were all treated so well and it definitely helped ease my safety fears. It was fascinating to hear about the culture of the Circassians from young Jordanians as well as from their parents and older relatives. It is easy to see how the culture has sustained for so long, despite not having a modern-day country.
Listen and Learn
I feel like we learned the most on our tour bus. Not only did we have a great tour guide, but when we were in the surrounding areas of Amman, Mohammad and the other hosts came along with us on our trips. I specifically recall one of our conversations when we were headed to Jerash on our last day in Jordan. We were talking about the Circassians (of course) and the topic of marriage came up. Three out of the four girls undoubtedly said they would marry a Circassian man, and Mohammad, who is free to marry whomever, also agreed that he would like a Circassian wife. For such a small culture they are dead set on seeing it survive, so much so that they try to ensure that they keep the pure Circassian lines going. It was so interesting to hear this since in the US we really do not have
this sense of cultural preservation through marriage, at least for the most part.
Photo: Rob Williams
into his driveway my nerves returned but were quickly relieved when I met his family who were some of the most hospitable people I have met. It was not until we sat down to talk with his family that I became aware of the Circassian people.
On our last night it was arranged for us to go to the Circassian social club right near our common meeting spot. I was a bit weary on doing this because I wanted to spend the night either out in Amman or with my new family at their home. I made sure that Mohammad came with us, which proved to be a funny experience. If you did not know, the Circassians are known for their beautiful women. This was proven true as we walked into the club for our farewell celebration. I suppose Mohammad knew there were going to be a lot of beautiful young girls so he got a bit more dressed up and was much shyer than he was at any other point in the trip. I thought it was comical but to him one of them could be his future spouse. Earlier in the week I had tried these amazing Circassian desserts and I was extremely happy to see them brought out to us at the club. Upon enjoying an assortment of Circassian desserts and treats, the company exposed us to traditional Circassian dance. Although I was hesitant to try with an audience, it was a great experience and their dance is fascinating. After a few of us in the group tried the dance, the celebration came to an end and we departed for downtown for one last hurrah with the group, both American and Jordanian. Our trip would not have been the same if it weren’t for our Circassian hosts. They play an integral part in modern Jordanian society while maintaining their culture and traditions. They are a proud people and have good reason to be. Their resilience shows and their hospitality is top notch. They Circassians are loyal, enough so that they actually serve as the royal guards in Jordan. They have blended into the Arab world and have integrated into a country that is not their own. I was supposed to do a project on the royal family of Jordan, but the royal family had no direct impact on my time in Jordan, whereas the Circassians definitely did. I now have a new Circassian brother and Circassian friends who live half a world away. We are friends on Facebook and Instagram and continue to communicate. Before my trip to Jordan I organized my life to prepare for my death. Looking back I laugh at my actions. I wish I could be back in Jordan today and hope to be able to return in the near future. This trip changed my view on the world and provided insight that I would have not gotten anywhere else. At this point all I can say is, shukran.
Z Adam Rowe ’14, Marketing Spring 2013 | 19
Culture
Jordan Thro
The Hills The hills of Jordan are just as important as the buildings that they were built on. Jordan has some of the most beautiful landscapes I have seen. Most if not all the cities seem to be based on hills, from Petra to Wadi Musa and Amman. Each of these photos documents the type of landscapes and buildings that exist within each.
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The Forums These Amphitheaters are both build in the middle of a city. One is slow modernizing and has made sure to keep its ancient gifts intact. The other lies deep in the mountainous desert and hasn’t had a real occupant for hundreds of years. In both cities the space must have been a public place for those to hang out and perform. Both cities did not sacrifice their public forums for space and conquering peoples from the Turks to the Brits agreed that it was worthy of preservation.
ough Film This compilation of images is supposed to demonstrate and support that Jordan is striving to maintain their cultural heritage, against modernization, pressure for desirable living space, and against anyone who would take it from them. Jordan is a land rich in history and to have anything but reverence for their traditions would be folly. Each of these photos demonstrates that for every development or change in Jordan the traditional way of doing things remains preserved. Why? Because it is still useful and the people of Jordan have realized that. As Americans we constantly throw away skills and items that are much more valuable than what they were replaced with.
Z Skyler Veselis ’13, Public Relations
The Streets The streets of ancient cities must have been awe inspiring. It seems that the roads of the old world still seem quite similar to their predecessors. Nearly every building has a bottom floor of stores and each manage to sell all of the exact same thing with small variation. Seeing how compact the streets are it makes me wonder if the streets of Jerash were full of various merchants trying to sell various goods from dawn until dusk.
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Culture
The Commons All civilization has to have room for its under and middle class. The first picture is of the Palestinian refugee camp in Amman. The second is of a whole cliff side of obviously carved out caves in Petra. Were these caves where the unwanted visitors had to stay, were they just storage, or perhaps this was an ancient barracks where soldiers rested between shifts.
The Wheels The need for transportation is as old as civilization; the first picture is of one of the trucks the Bedouin drive to get around Wadi Rum. The second image is surely as old as the Bedouin people, the Camel. The Bedouin have not forsaken their ancient friends and they still serve a valuable purpose.
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Feature Story
TOP REVELATIONS As if someone could compile an entire 10-day cultural immersion experience into a few revelations. The number of things each student on the spring break 2013 Jordan Mojo class will take away culturally and personally, in addition to the memories, new friendships, and souvenirs, is enough to write an entire novel about. But here are the top ‘lucky number seven’ observations that our class had about Jordan and the Middle East that we felt were most important. By Jordan Mojo Class Compiled by Kayla Hedman
Final assignment. Find more at http://champlainjordanmojo2013.blogspot.com/
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Photo: Skyler Veselis
Feature Story
Takeaways
1.
Touring Jordan Safe & Sound. “Prior to our trip I was initially concerned about safety while traveling to Jordan and safety while on the ground in Jordan,” said Adam Rowe ’14. “After safely arriving back in the United States I can say that Jordan is a very safe and stable country and at no point was I every nervous about safety and security.”
Looking around at every stop along the way, we were always treated as tourists whether we were offered sweet tea or persuaded into buying souvenirs we didn’t want (my personal favorite was the 10-year-old postcard-peddling Bedouin girl at Petra who tricked me into buying what she said was a “gift” for the pretty American).
Photo: Rob Williams
Tourism is one of, if not the biggest industry in Jordan. A push for tourism in Jordan began in the 1960s as part of a the three-part plan to better the economy. I noticed this in several ways: everything is in both Arabic and English – even the spoken presentation at Petra’s Night Tour. Signs for restaurants read “Tourist Restaurant” and there were a great deal of hotels. Second, occupations such as tourist police were created to help the unemployment crisis, as well as to protect tourists in groups of five or more. This adds a sense of security. The current King, Abdullah II, believes that “the only thing that can bring lasting prosperity to our region, is replacing bombs and bullets with tourists and entrepreneurs.”
2.
Photo: Adam Rowe
Keys to the Kingdom. Jordan is one of the few countries left in the world ruled by an absolute monarch and it is not hard to figure out who that is. King Abdullah II is everywhere. Wherever you turn there is his portrait in various settings. People seem to really have a liking for their king. Author Philip Robins talks about how smooth the transition was between Hussein and Abdullah in his book A History of Jordan, saying that one of the reasons was due to the fact that “ ..the succession of King Abdullah II was widely viewed as being legitimate.” Abdullah was meant to be king and since taking the throne he has continued much of his father’s work and continues to put his country first. King Abdullah II described his personal transition by saying, “The night before [my father’s] funeral I went to bed with a family of four, and I woke up the next morning with a family of five million.” The ‘Little Known’ Circassian People. The first night we got to Amman and met our Circassian host families, our host-poppa nicknamed “Red Wine” asked us what we knew about Circassians. Abbie and I looked at each other with fear in our eyes for lack of a better answer than, “We read a little about them in our book.”
3.
Photo: Rob Williams
After the introduction of the refugees from the expansion of the Russian Empire in the Transcaucasus, communities of Ciscassians were ‘planted’ in Transjordan from 1878 onwards in a handful of sites, predominantly in the capital of Amman. Amman was still a settlement dominated by Ciscassians in 1903, and in 1920 the community was asked to join forces with the British to raise a Mobile Force in Transjordan. On this occasion, the Circassian community declined, concerned that their small size and perennial association with external state force could leave them exposed. Today, with only sixmillion Circassians internationally, they face a mix of discrimination as a people and respect for their exuberant pride. As non-Arab Muslims, they are some of the most Westernized people in Jordanian society and have an interesting culture; we loved learning the basics of their traditional folk dance.
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Photo: Kayla Hedman
4.
Bedouins. “Like the Circassians, I felt I knew nothing about the Bedouins before going to Jordan,” said Abbie Clark ’13. We had read in our course texts that the Bedouins were nomadic tribes of people. Various students in the class have compared the Bedouin people to Native Americans in the United States, but in history they have faced much less discrimination. Photo: Kayla Hedman
Although many stick to their traditional roots, migrating with livestock and living in desert tents, the Bedouin definitely have a place among modern Jordan. It would be a real challenge to control these people, so rather than being subjugated and destroyed they were given work and integrated into life in the country. “Maybe it is because they are so pervasive in the overall structure of the Middle East or because they have such a strong root to the land,” said Skyler Veselis ’13.
The only forced movement of Bedouin tribes was from Petra and other tourist attractions that are UNESCO World Heritage sites. In an act of preservation they were moved to a settlement just outside of Petra. The Bedouins have been able to adapt to society by using their culture as a way to promote Jordanian tourism, like the Rahayeb Desert Camp. Artisan Bedouin people sell their goods at tourist sites like Petra and Jerash, and were passing out tea almost everywhere we went.
5.
History Runs Deep. Jordan has such a depth of history. Although the country itself is 90 years young, the geographical region has history of civilization far greater than the United States. Witnessing local children play in ruins thousands of years old, Bedouin men scaling the Monastery at Petra with a camera and jumping from peak to peak, and being able to touch and mess with columns that once supported the roof of the Temple of Artemis was a real eye opener. Undoubtedly if these relics were in the United States we certainly would not be able to just walk around and touch whatever we wanted to. The only place where we were told to stop was at Petra well, not we, Skyler. For him, the highlight of the trip was being able to satisfy the climbing compulsion he seems to have.
6. Photo: Kayla Hedman
Photo: Rob Williams
Traditional and functional. What Jordanians would consider beauty and fashion is both traditional and functional. The two most prominent traditional wares were the checkered head scarves (Keffiyeh) and eye kohl. Although the effectiveness of the eye kohl to reflect sunlight and make eyelashes grow longer and thicker to protect eyes from the sand is still unknown, we did learn that the Keffiyeh and burkas are not religiously affiliated. Head scarves are much more for protection from sun and sand than anything else. In Jordan, animals are also traditionally essential to everyday life. There were countless stories told about camels throughout the week - from women being called camel, jemel, in Arabic if they were attractive, camels stomachs being cut open if Bedouins needed drinking water, or just their general stamina and ability to go long periods of time without drinking (5 days in the summer, over a month in the winter). We saw countless donkeys, sheep, goats, and camels in both urban and rural settings. The tour guide Abdullah mentioned how expensive goats were for providing milk, and how camels were worth $5,000 after Professor Miriam Horne was offered 60 camels in exchange for Abbie.
7.
The melting pot of the Middle East. With the massive influx of refugees from Palestine, Iraq, and now Syria, Jordan is being pushed close to the edge. No country can really be prepared for to take such an extremely large load of refugees. However, some good has come from this influx of foreigners. “A Moroccan is quite different from a Jordanian or a Yemeni. Even though most Arab countries share a common religion, Islam, and a common language, Arabic, there are important cultural and historical differences between them...”Jordan has become this place where the cultures of different nations meet and intermingle. Being able to see the and interact with people that are Palestinian, Jordanian, Circassian, all united by one supreme factor…their faith. Spring 2013 | 25
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