Treme Cookbook - BBQ Shrimp
Pascal’s Manale 100th Anniversary
CULINARY CONCIERGE T h e Wi n e & D i n e M a g a z i n e - NEW ORLEANS -
TO P C H E F New Orleans
Meet the Local Chef’testants
Justin Devillier
Michael Sichel
Sichel’s Seared Scallops with Curry Nage landed his spot on Top Chef via “Padma’s Picks”
F A L L / H O L I D AY 2 0 1 3
plus, Black & Gold Oysters...Beard & Bocuse
Tasteful Travel...Recipes...Menu Pages & More
CULINARY CONCIERGE
The Wine & Dine Magazine - NEW ORLEANS -
13
th
Anniversary
2000 - 2013
Celebrating 13 years of serving up the culinary current Kendall Collins Gensler
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF/PUBLISHER PHOTOGRAPHY Romney Caruso Sara Essex Jose L. Garcia II Eugenia Uhl
GRAPHIC DESIGN ASSISTANT John Schexnaydre Published quarterly by
Culinary Concepts, LLC a culinary consulting and publishing firm 5500 Prytania Street #437 New Orleans, LA 70115
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take a
taste
New Orleans
Fall / Holiday 2013
TABLE OF CONTENTS
5 For Starters
Black & Gold Oysters at Bourbon House
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TOP CH EF:
New Orleans 12 Buy the Book:
Treme: Stories and Recipes from the heart of New Orleans
14 Toast of the Town:
Pascal’s Manale 100th Anniversary
16 18 26
Follow t he Leader:
Barbecue Shrimp
Cooking at the James Beard House Tasteful Tr avel:
Rhône - Alpes
33
“On The Menu” Pages
38
RESTAURANT DIRECTORY & MAPS
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Bourbon House
For Starters
kicks off the 2013-2014 Football Season with Black and Gold Oysters-using local caviar from Cajun Caviar.
Bowfin (black) and catfish (gold) caviars pair perfectly with P & J Gulf oysters. Now through the end of the season, Bourbon House will serve oysters with caviar at $14 per 1/2 dozen or $27 per dozen.
‘Tis the Season!
editor-in-chief CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 |
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TO P C H E F :
New Orleans
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As Seen on TV
Bravo TV’s Emmy and James Beard Awardwinning series, “ T o p C h e f , ” is back and heads to New Orleans for season 11. The season kicked-off with a new pre-premiere digital video series, “ P a d m a ’ s P i c k s , ” sponsored by Cigna and available on BravoTV.com. “Padma’s Picks” gave some of New Orleans’ most talented young chefs the opportunity to cook their way on to the actual show. Host and Judge Padma Lakshmi visited some of The Big Easy’s most celebrated establishments to find 10 of the best and brightest chefs from New Orleans. These chefs then battled in a head-to-head to make it to the “Cigna GO YOU Challenge” finale of “Padma’s Picks” with the ultimate winner earning a coveted spot on this season’s cast.
The 5 “Padma’s Picks” finale competitor’s were M i c h a e l S i c h e l, Executive chef, Galatoire’s/33 Bar and Steak; J u s t i n D e v i l l i e r, Executive chef/owner, La Petite Grocery; T r e s B a r n a r d, Executive chef, We’ve Got Soul Pop-Up; B r a d l e y M c G e h e e , Executive chef, Ye Old College Inn/Rock ‘n’ Bowl; and B e n o i t A n g u l o , Chef/owner, La Cocinita Food Truck. Not one, but two chefs prevailed and nabbed jackets to compete on Top Chef New Orleans as chef’testants: Michael Sichel and Justin Devillier.
Returning to the judges table in NOLA for Top Chef Season 11 are lead judge T o m C o l i c c h i o, G a i l S i m m o n s, H u g h A c h e s o n, and New Orlean’s own E m e r i l L a g a s s e, alongside host P a d m a L a k s h m i.
This season ups the ante against the backdrop of the gastronomically diverse city of New Orleans- and the chefs are tasked with serving up food for top entertainers, culinary stars and celebrity guest judges including: L e a h C h a s e , P a u l P r u d h o m m e , J a c q u e s P e p i n, D a v i d C h a n g, J o h n B e s h, and E d d i e H u a n g as well as local legends K e r m i t R u f f i n s and D r . J o h n. The chef’testants will bring out their knives as they battle for $125,000 furnished by Healthy Choice, a feature in Food & Wine magazine, a showcase at the Annual Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and the title of “ T o p C h e f.””
Additionally, “ T o p C h e f : L a s t C h a n c e K i t c h e n , ” the Emmy-nominated digital video series sponsored by Toyota and hosted by Tom Colicchio, returns for its third season. Each week, two eliminated chef’testants face-off to compete for the ultimate prize-- redemption and a spot in the “Top Chef” finale. Fans can follow the “Top Chef: Last Chance Kitchen” challenges on B rav oTV. co m CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 |
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Michael Sichel
Executive Chef, Galatoire’s & 33 Bar and Steak New Orleans Local Chef’testant
After overcoming cancer at the age of 26, Chef Michel Sichel spent more than 13 years honing his cooking skills in Provence, France and in the kitchens of notable restaurants including Rubicon with Traci des Jardins in San Francisco and Gotham Bar & Grill with Alfred Portale in New York. He moved to New Orleans in 2004 where he had the opportunity to shadow some of the city’s best chefs and is currently Executive Chef at Galatoire’s, a 105 year-old New Orleans landmark and James Beard award-winning restaurant.
Padma’s Pick
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Michael’s Padma’s Picks Finale Winning Dish
Seared Scallops with Curry Nage
Ingredients: 4 ea Sea scallops 1 lb Spinach 1T Curry powder Oil Basil 1c Fume Kalamata olives 1 ea Shallots, minced Caper Lemons Basil
Recipe
method for the curry nage: Simmer fish stock fume with basil stems. Bring a 1/4 cup of oil on the stove up till hot add curry powder and remove from heat. Let steep until cool. Strain oil into fume. Add fresh lemon juice, salt and pepper. Strain again and reserve liquid. method for the spinach purée: Sauté spinach in pan until wilted. While hot, purée in a blenderuntil smooth. Reserve. method for the tapenade: Mix together chopped olives, minced shallots, capers, lemon zest. Add a little olive oil and set aside. to plate: Sauté scallops until golden. Place curry nage in bowl as a light broth, add the spinach purée to the center of the bowl, then add scallops to the plate. Finish by topping each scallop with tapenade and fresh basil. Serve.
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Justin Devillier
Chef / Owner, La Petite Grocery
New Orleans Local Chef’testant
Born in California, Chef Justin Devillier became a “forever” resident of New Orleans when he moved there in 2003. With no formal culinary training, he began working in the kitchens of restaurants such as Bacco, Stella, and Peristyle and joined the staff of La Petite Grocery in 2003. He became Executive Chef in 2007 after helping re-establish the restaurant after Hurricane Katrina and was nominated in 2012 as a finalist by The James Beard Foundation for the Best Chef South Award. Justin has been an avid fisherman since childhood and tries to make it out on the water at least one day a week, chasing salt water game fish.
Padma’s Pick Justin’s Padma’s Picks Finale Winning Dish 10 | CULINARY CONCIERGE | NEW ORLEANS
Corn Soup with Thai Basil
Ingredients: 2 ears shucked corn, remove kernels from the cob 1 ea small yellow onion, diced 2 leaves thai basil salt, to taste white pepper, to taste fresh lemon juice fresh lime juice fennel salad, garnish
Recipe
method for the soup: Place corn kernels, onion and basil in a small saucepan and just cover with water. Cook over high heat for 15-20 minutes. Place the cooked vegetables in a high power blender and add just enough of the cooking liquid to make a smooth purée. Purée for 2 minutes. Season with salt and white pepper, then adjust the acid level with lemon and lime juice. Garnish with fennel salad and thai basil. Serve either hot or cold. This Corn soup recipe is super easy and super tasty. It was created with the importance of health, low calorie and flavor being the focus. Padma referred to it as ”a bowl of sunshine.”
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Buy the Book Stuffed Mirliton
8 ea
3/ 4 lb 1t 1/ 2 t 1/ 2 c
Recipe
medium mirlitons
medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/ 4 c minced fresh flat-leaf parsley Basic Creole Seasoning Blend 3T finely chopped green onions, cayenne pepper white and tender green parts unsalted butter (1stick), 2 1/ 2 T finely chopped garlic plus about 5 tablespoons 1/ 2 c very fine dried bread crumbs, 1 ea yellow onion, chopped plus about 5 tablespoons 2 ea celery stalks with leaves, finely diced 1t salt 1/ 4 large green bell pepper, 1/ 2 t freshly ground pepper seeded and chopped 1 ea large egg, lightly beaten Preheat the oven to 350째F. method for the mirliton: Put the mirlitons in a large stockpot, and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover the pot and continue boiling, just until the mirlitons are fork tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer the mirlitons to a colander to drain and cool. Once cool enough to handle, place the mirlitons on a cutting board. Cut them in half lengthwise. With a paring knife, shallowly trim away any spiny or blemished spots from the skin, and tough pulp from the end nearest to the seed. Remove and discard the seed and use a small spoon to carefully remove the pulp from the inside of each half, leaving a 1/2 inch-thick shell. Drain the mirliton pulp in a colander, lightly squeezing it to release excess moisture, then chop the pulp. Set aside the pulp and shells. method for the stuffing: Season the shrimp with Creole seasoning and cayenne, mixing well. Set aside. In a heavy 5quart saucepan over low heat, melt the 1/2 c of butter. Add the onions and cook until they start to soften, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the celery, bell pepper, parsley, green onions, and garlic, cook and stir for 2 minutes. Add the reserved mirliton pulp and cook for 6 minutes. Put 1/2 c of the bread crumbs into a small bowl. Once the mirliton pulp mixture has cooked for 6 minutes, add 2 T of the reserved bread crumbs, mixing thoroughly, then continue adding 2 T at a time until you have added all of them, stirring thoroughly between additions. Cook the mixture over low heat, until it is noticeably dryer but still moist, about 3 minutes, stirring as needed. Next, add the seasoned shrimp, salt, and pepper. Continue cooking until the shrimp turn pink, about 1 minute more, stirring almost constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the egg, blending well. Mound the stuffing in the 16 mirliton shells. Place the stuffed shells in a baking pan, that will hold the shells in a single layer touching each other lightly to help support their shapes as they cook. Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon more bread crumbs evenly over the top of each stuffed shell and center a scant teaspoon of butter on the top of each. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake in the hot oven for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking until the tops are browned, about 1 hour more. Serve at once.
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Treme Stories and Recipes from the Heart of New Orleans By Lolis Eric Elie
Foreword by Anthony Bourdain Preface by David Simon Recipe Photographs by Ed Anderson ISBN 978-1-4521-0969-5| $29.95
Ask the characters of HBO’s Treme™ what New Orleans cuisine means to them and you will get as many different answers as there are versions of the city’s famous Creole gumbo. Trumpet-playing native Delmond Lambreaux says it best: “You don’t have to tell people where you’re from; you just start telling them what you eat and they know.”
Whether it’s rising-star chef Janette Desautel’s own Crawfish Ravioli, LaDonna Batiste-Williams’s Smothered Turnip Soup, the Slow-Roasted Duck from beloved Gabrielle, the Sweet Potato Turnovers from La Spiga, or the city’s finest Sazerac, New Orleans’ cuisine is both new and old, genteel and down-home, with a mélange of influences from Creole to Vietnamese, and, in the words of Toni Bernette, “seasoned with delicious nostalgia.”
Treme, with more than 100 heritage and contemporary recipes, is a celebration of the eclectic and inventive culinary spirit of post-Katrina New Orleans, including contributions from such legendary restaurants as Brigtsen’s, Upperline, and Commander’s Palace plus original recipes from many of the renowned chefs who have made guest appearances on Treme. “There’s a here, here,” says the quixotic Davis McAlary of his indescribable, multifaceted city. The surest way to get there, to the true flavor of Treme, is through its vibrant cooking.
Lolis Eric Elie is a New Orleans native and an award-winning staff writer and story editor for the HBO series Treme. Formerly a columnist for New Orleans’ Times-Picayune, he is the author of Smokestack Lightning: Adventures in the Heart of Barbeque Country, and the editor of Cornbread Nation 2: The United States of Barbeque. His work has appeared in the Washington Post, Saveur, Gourmet, and Bon Appetit, and he is a contributing writer to Oxford American. He lives in New Orleans and Los Angeles. .
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Pascal’s Manale marks a milestone
In 1913, Frank Manale bought a corner grocery store at Napoleon Avenue and Dryades to open Manale’s Restaurant. From the beginning, Manale’s was a family affair. The original crew included Frank’s nephew’s and his son. Pascal Radosta was behind the bar and his brother Jake was in the kitchen. When Frank Manale died in 1937, Pascal took over sole management of Manale’s Restaurant. Many years later, Pascal wanted to add his name to the restaurant. To honor his uncle, he kept “Manale” and the restaurant became known as Pascal’s Manale Restaurant. The 1940s brought citywide recognition to Manale’s for their O y s t e r s R o c k e f e l l e r, which Manale’s still serves by the dozen with the option of 1/2 & 1/2 O y s t e r s B i e n v i l l e, an equal contender to the oyster lovers palate.
The 1950s brought the famous B B Q S h r i m p to Pascal’s Manale. A good friend of then owner Pascal Radosta, Vincent Sutro was a frequent visitor to New Orleans to play the horses and eat at Pascal’s. He came in one night raving about a dish he had eaten in Chicago. He explained it to Jake, Jake recreated this dish with his Louisiana spin and put it in front of Vincent to try. When asked if it was the same, Vincent said NO, it is better. Pas loved it so much, he immediately put it on the menu. The rest is history! The original BBQ Shrimp is the restaurants lasting contribution to local cuisine. It is this dish that has brought worldwide notoriety to the restaurant. It is this dish that tourists and locals alike pour in night after night to eat.
All of Pascal’s children owned and managed the restaurant at one time or another since his death. His two daughters ran the restaurant during the 70s and 80s. In 1988, Virginia DeFelice, Pas’ youngest daughter, and her family purchased Pascal’s Manale back from her sister Frances. That was 25 years ago. The DeFelice family still own and manage the 100 year old restaurant. Currently in the fourth generation of ownership, the restaurant sits sits on the quiet corner of Napoleon Avenue and Dryades Street just steps from the St. Charles Avenue streetcar reminding its neighbors of a quieter time in New Orleans’ history. For one century, Pascal’s Manale Restaurant, has specialized in seafood, traditional Italian dishes and thick, juicy steaks. All these New Orleans specialities can be found at Manale’s Monday through Saturday for dinner. Manales also opens for lunch Monday through Friday and serves a delicious BBQ Shrimp poboy made by hollowing out the end of a French bread loaf and pouring in peeled shrimp and that addicting sauce. Be sure to check out the Bread Pudding, as well.
Pascal’s Manale Restaurant 1838 Napoleon Avenue 504.895.4877
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100th Anniversary Celebration
Toast of the Town Fourth generation proprietors of Pascal’s Manale Restaurant: (seated) Bob DeFelice, Ginny DeFelice, (standing) Sandy DeFelice and Chef Mark DeFelice
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Follow the Leader:
Barbecued Shrimp kendall gensler dips into the saucy dish
Mr. B’s Bistro Chef Michelle McRaney
New Orleans Barbecued Shrimp
serves 2 as an entrée or 4 as an appetizer
The biggest trick to making this taste like Mr. B’s is to not hold back on the butter. The three sticks called for are enough to scare you into cholesterol shock, but are key to the flavor and consistency of the sauce. Another tip to keep in mind: to emulsify the sauce, be sure to add a little butter at a time while stirring rapidly. And don’t overcook the shrimp or they’ll become tough and hard to peel. 16 1/2 c 2T 2t 2t 2t 1t 1 1/2 c
jumbo shrimp with heads and unpeeled Worcestershire sauce fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons) ground black pepper cracked black pepper Creole seasoning minced garlic cold unsalted butter, cubed French bread as accompaniment
method: In a large skillet combine shrimp, Worcestershire, lemon juice, black peppers, Creole seasoning, and garlic and cook over moderately high heat until shrimp turn pink, about 1 minute on each side. Reduce heat to moderate and stir in butter, a few cubes at a time, stirring constantly and adding more only when butter is melted. Remove skillet from heat. Place shrimp in a bowl and pour sauce over top. Serve with French bread for dipping.
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Recipe
The Original One of the most popular and famous shrimp dishes in New Orleans is Barbecue Shrimp. Created by Jake Radosta ( Pascal’s brother) at P a s c a l ' s M a n a l e restaurant on Napoleon Avenue, the saucy dish has been satisfying locals and visitors alike for over half a century. The key to the luscious sauce is that the shrimp are cooked in their shells with the heads on-- lending stock-y goodness. B u t , t h e r e c i p e r e m a i n s a s e c r e t. At Manale's, the Barbecue Shrimp is served in its' original presentation to peel and eat, then sop up the sauce with hot French bread. Pascal's descendants have added two other ways to enjoy the shrimp to the menu-- my personal favorite, V e a l G a m b e r o, in which the Barbecue Shrimp are peeled and served with the rich sauce for dipping alongside breaded veal cutlets; and the lunchtime offering of the B a r b e c u e S h r i m p p o - b o y in which the shrimp are stuffed into French bread and doused with a generous amount of the sauce. The Offspring It seems that the popularity of the dish has spawned many variations at other restaurants across the city, too. Barbecue Shrimp has become a staple on the menu at M r . B ' s B i s t r o (recipe at left)-- their version features an emulsified sauce with tons of butter. E m e r i l accompanies his version with rosemary biscuits instead of the traditional French bread. Chef Gus Martin at M u r i e l ' s J a c k s o n S q u a r e serves up his barbecue shrimp in a spicy butter sauce infused with fresh rosemary and laced with Abita Amber beer. R e d F i s h G r i l l offers their take on a Barbecue Shrimp po-boy incorporating a "Buffalo" flair-- frying the shrimp first, then glazing them with the New Orleans-style barbecue sauce, adding a crumble of bleu cheese and red onion on traditional French bread. Red Fish Grill Barbecue Shrimp Po-Boy
Pascal’s Manale Barbecue Shrimp and Veal Gambero
Muriel’s Barbecue Shrimp
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Cooking at the James Beard House
New Orleans restaurants receive coveted invitations This Fall, two New Orleans restaurant groups have been invited to cook at the esteemed James Beard House in New York City. Dickie Brennan traveled to the Big Apple with the chefs from each of his 4 restaurants: Palace Café, Bourbon House, Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse and Tableau to put on an Evolution of Creole Cuisine Dinner on October 3. While Chef Phillip Lopez of Root and the soon to open Square Root prepares to showcase Modern New Orleans Culinary Tradition on November 20. James Beard was an American chef and food writer. The central figure in the story of the establishment of a gourmet American food identity, Beard was an eccentric personality who brought French cooking to the American middle and upper classes in the 1950s. In 1955, he established The James Beard Cooking School. He continued to teach cooking to men and women for the next 30 years, both at his own schools (in New York City and Seaside, Oregon), and around the country at women's clubs, other cooking schools, and civic groups. According to Julia Child, Beard was on the culinary road map in 1940 with the publication of his first book, Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapés. Beard started out with a catering business in New York, followed by lecturing, teaching, and writing both books and articles. Child states, “Through the years he gradually became not only the leading culinary figure in the country, but 'The Dean of American Cuisine'.” He was a tireless traveler, bringing his message of good food, honestly prepared with fresh, wholesome, American ingredients, to a country just becoming aware of its own culinary heritage.” His legacy lives on in twenty books, numerous writings, his own foundation, and his foundation's annual Beard awards in various culinary genres. After Beard's death in 1985, Julia Child had the idea to preserve his home in New York City as the gathering place it was throughout his life. Peter Kump, a former student of Beard's and the founder of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), spearheaded the effort to
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James Beard House
Adjacent Left: Entrance to the James Beard Townhouse on W. 12th Street in Greenwich Village. Top Left: James Beard in his kitchen. Top Right: 2nd floor Dining room at James Beard House. Bottom Right: Menu at place setting under portrait of James Beard. Bottom left: Hors d’oeuvres reception on the first floor and garden area of the James Beard House.
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Dickie Brennan Restaurants
Top Left: Partners Steve Pettus, Lauren Brennan Brower of Dickie Brennan Company. Top Right: Chef Ben Thibodeaux’s Barbecued Lamb Chops with Braised Greens, Stone-Ground Goat Cheese Grits, and Bruléed Lemon. Bottom Left: Chef Alfred Singleton’s Cast Iron-Seared Strip Steak with Sweet Potatoes, Bacon, & Blue Cheese. Bottom Right: Pineapple - Rum Upside Down Cake with Lime Snowball.
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The Evolution of Creole Cuisine October 3, 2013
Host Dickie Brennan Bourbon House, Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse, Palace Café, and Tableau, New Orleans Chef Brandon Muetzel Palace Café, New Orleans Chef Darin Nesbit Bourbon House, New Orleans Chef Alfred Singleton Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse, New Orleans Chef Ben Thibodeaux Tableau, New Orleans Pastry Chef Stephanie Bernard Tableau, New Orleans Beverage Director Barry Himel Tableau, New Orleans Lauded New Orleans restaurateur Dickie Brennan comes from restaurant royalty-- the Brennan family owns the beloved Crescent City institutions Commander's Palace and Mr. B's Bistro. He is now the commander of his own empire, which includes his latest venture, Tableau, where he continues the tradition of celebrating the spirit and soul of the city.
continued from page 18 purchase the house and create the James Beard Foundation. The James Beard Foundation was set up in Beard's honor to provide scholarships to aspiring food professionals and to champion the American culinary tradition-- which Beard helped create. Since 2001, the Beard Foundation has awarded several millions of dollars in scholarships and tuition waivers to young culinarians and career changers pursuing culinary studies. The James Beard Foundation offers a variety of events designed to educate, inspire, entertain, and foster an appreciation of American cuisine. These events are all held at the historic James Beard House at 167 West 12th Street (between 6th and 7th Avenues), in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village. The Beard House is the former residence of the man considered to be the father of American gastronomy, James Beard. It is North America's only historical culinary center. Today, The Beard House serves as a performance space for visiting chefs and offers
Jame s Bea rd Menu Hors d'Oeuvres
Plateau de Fruits de Mer and Gulf Oysters with Louisiana Caviar Grilled Chapeau Steak on Sugarcane Skewers Bacon-Wrapped Duck Liver with Pepper Jelly on Cornbread Crostini Lamb Pies with Creole Cream Dressing Miniature Croque Madames with Chisesi Brothers Ham and Fried Quail Eggs Artichokes with Jumbo Lump Crabmeat, Green Onions, Garlic, Lemon, and Panko Steak Tartare on Crispy Fingerling Potatoes with Creole Mustard, Crème Fraîche, and Grilled Scallions Demitasse Blue Crab Gumbo with Crab-Infused Popcorn Rice, Jumbo Lump Crab, and Deviled Crab Chops Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Isabel Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Deep Rosé 2012 Dinner
Gulf Oyster Trio Oyster Spaghetti Carbonara, Oyster en Brochette, and Oyster Loaf Isabel Mondavi Chardonnay 2011 Andouille-Crusted and Crab-Boiled Mozzarella with Grilled Green Tomatoes, Sun-Dried Tomato-Pecan Pesto, and Sugarcane Gastrique Isabel Mondavi Pinot Noir 2010 Barbecued Lamb Chops with Beer and Andouille-Braised Greens, Stone-Ground Goat Cheese Grits, and Bruléed Lemon Emblem Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Cast Iron-Seared Strip Steak with Sweet Potatoes, Bacon, Blue Cheese, and Bourbon-Peppercorn Cream M by Michael Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Dessert
Crème Brûlée with Popcorn Rice Calas, Pineapple-Rum Cake with Lime Snowball, Mississippi Mud Praline Parfait, Bananas Foster Profiterole, and Bourbon Milk Punch Oberon Moscato 2011
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Root
Top Left: Chef Phillip Lopez and Partner Max Ortiz at Root. Top Right: Black-Lacquered Duck Tortellini with Vanilla-Fennel Tapioca, Sichuan-Cured Beef Tendon, Black Duck-Tea Broth. Bottom Left: Sous Vide Lamb Loin with Peach Pit-Roasted Wheat-Berry Oatmeal, Celery Root Bark, Roasted Chicory, and Charred Saba Miso Bottom Right: Sablefish Véronique with Toasted Marcona Almond Purée
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Modern New Orleans Tradition November 20, 2013 Chef Phillip Lopez Root, New Orleans Following stints with industry icons Michel Richard and John Besh, chef Phillip Lopez opened his own New Orleans restaurant, Root. Since then, Lopez has been a progressive force for redefining preparation, techniques, and flavors in the Big Easy’s culinary landscape, earning Root a coveted spot on Bon Appétit’s 50 Best New Restaurants list.
the general dining public an opportunity to enjoy exquisite dinners prepared by some of the country’s top chefs, among them: Wolfgang Puck, Charlie Trotter, David Bouley, Michael Mina and Marcus Samuelsson. Proceeds from the dinners support the mission of the James Beard Foundation--to celebrate, nurture, and honor America’s diverse culinary heritage. Multi-course meals, complemented by wine pairings, prepared by guest chefs from around the world. Dinners may highlight individual chefs or chefs from more than one restaurant. Chefs may cook their own signature cuisine, or cook around a particular theme, such as a specific ingredient or holiday. When attending a dinner, guests are first invited to walk through the Beard House kitchen to meet the night’s chef and observe the event team at work. They then enjoy a canapé reception, which takes place throughout the ground floor and in the garden (weather permitting). Diners then climb to the second-floor dining room, where they enjoy a five- to six-course tasting menu with wine pairings. The evening concludes with a question-and-answer session with the chef in the dining room. "The James Beard House is very proud to recognize and celebrate the country's greatest emerging and established culinary talents,” states Izabela Wojcik, Director of House Programming at The James Beard Foundation. "In keeping with our mission to tell important food stories and highlight American regional cuisines - not to mention all the unique ethnic, cultural, geographic and anthropological influences that implies. There is no better and richer story than that of New Orleans and its’ evolution.” - k.g.
Ja mes Be ard Menu Hors d’Oeuvres
Puffed Lobster Crackers with Tarragon Caviar, Lobster-Bergamot Mousse and Wild Herbs Black Tea-Smoked Scallop Crudo with Satsuma Pearls and Pecan Leather Pizzette di Nduja Sausage with Pumpkin Seed Ricotta, Za’atar Naan Crisps, and Pumpkin Preserves Grilled Duck’s Hearts with Roasted Anticucho Sauce, Charred Onions, Compressed Melon, and Crispy Funyuns Stuffed Aloo Poori with Toasted Garam Masala, Sweet Potatoes, and Indian Lime Pickles Velenosi Passerina Brut NV Dinner
Smoked Oyster with Charentais Melon Mignonette, Buttermilk-Horseradish Ice, and Oyster Leaf Peter Jakob Kühn Riesling Sekt Brut NV The Incredible Edible Egg Marbled Rye-Pine Nut Picada with Warm Egg Yolk, Cauliflower Soubise, Crispy Pancetta Chip, and Wildflowers COS Ramí 2011 Monkfish Liver Parfait with Lychee Gelée, Young Coconut Snow, Truffled Green Peaches, and Pickled Sea Beans Weingut Lagler Steinborz Grüner Veltliner 2011 Black-Lacquered Duck Tortellini with Vanilla-Fennel Tapioca, Sichuan-Cured Beef Tendon, Black Duck-Tea Broth, and Charred Onion Ash Purée Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barbera d'Alba 2011 Sablefish Véronique with Toasted Marcona Almond Purée, Compressed Celery, Pickled Grapes, Baby Fennel, and Grape Yeast Foam J. Hofstätter Meczan Pinot Noir 2012 Sous Vide Lamb Loin with Peach PitRoasted Wheat-Berry Oatmeal, Celery Root Bark, Roasted Chicory, and Charred Saba Miso Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso 2011 Dessert
Indian Falooda with Louisiana Citrus, Nitro-Pineapple, Blueberry Vermicelli, Puffed Rice, Rehydrated Basil Seeds, Wildflowers, and Geranium-Rose Milk Ansgar Clüsserath Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett 2011 CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 |
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Pineapple - Rum Upside Down Cake
For the cake: 2 cups sugar 1 cup soybean salad oil 1 1/2 tap vanilla 4 large eggs, room temp 2 1/2 cup cake flour 2 tap baking powder 1/2 tap salt 3/4 cup whole milk 4 TBS sour cream method for the cake batter: Method: In an electric mixer, beat the oil, sugar, an vanilla until well combined. Add eggs one at a time until each is mixed into the batter. Combine all dry ingredients into a bowl. Add drys in thirds alternating with the milk and sour cream mixture.
rum syrup: 6 oz unsalted butter 1 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup water 1/4 tsp salt 1/2 cup rum
topping: 1 can chopped pineapple 1 1/2 cups light brown sugar 9 oz unsalted butter
method for topping: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a 9x13 pan. In a method for syrup: Melt butter in a pot, melt the butter and brown sugar saucepan over medium heat. Once until combined. Pour mixture into melted, add the sugar and the water sprayed pan. Lay the pineapple on top and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes. of the brown sugar butter mixture. Place Turn off the heat and add the rum. cake batter on top of the pineapple. Once added, return back to the heat for Bake for 25 minutes or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Once the a few seconds. cake is out of the oven, add the rum syrup in thirds to give it time to moisten the cake.
Pastry Chef
Stephanie Bernard Tableau
24
Recipe
| CULINARY CONCIERGE | NEW ORLEANS
This Rum Upside Down Cake was topped with a lime “snowball” when served at the Dickie Brennan Company James Beard Dinner on October 3 in New York City. It was one of five “Dickie Brennan” desserts showcased that evening.
Directory New York City
James Beard House J ames Beard Foundation 167 W. 12th Street Phone: 212.675.4984
New Orleans
Dickie Brennan Restaurants: Bourbon House 144 Bourbon Street Phone: 504.522.0111
Dickie Brenn an ’s Steakhouse 716 Iberville Street Phone: 504.522.2467
P alace Café 605 Canal Street Phone: 504.523.1661
Tableau 616 St. Peter Street Phone: 504.934.3463
Root 200 Julia Street Phone: 504.252.9480
Square Root 1800 Magazine Street ( Opening Late December 2013) CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 | 25
26 | CULINARY CONCIERGE | NEW ORLEANS
Tasteful Travel:
Rhône -Alpes kendall gensler
takes a taste of the region
Located in the South Eastern part of France, Rhône-Alpes is just one of the twenty-six provinces that make up France. The region gets its name from two geographical landmarks that have contributed to making it: the Rhône River and the Alps mountain range. Rhône-Alpes is also home to the city of Lyon, which is the largest metropolitan city in France next to the cosmopolitan city of Paris. Connoisseurs of good food and wine are enchanted by the range of local At Left: Mont Blanc, as seen from the town of Chamonix. Below top: Paul Bocuse in his kitchen. Below bottom: A composed plate of seared scallops presents a simple, yet sophisticated dish indicative of the high-end cuisine in Rhône-Alpes.
CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 | 27
Top left: Chestnuts from Ardeche. Top Right: Beaujolais wines are a feature of the region. Middle Right: Mushrooms and other fresh produce is bountiful in the region. Bottom Left: C么tes du Rhone wines are produced in the Rh么ne Valley in the region. Bottom Right: Nougat de Montelimar (which is white nougat made with sugar, honey, white of egg, vanilla, almonds, pistachio nuts or crystallized fruit).
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specialties available to taste along with a Beaujolais or a Côtes du Rhône, and by the sheer number of famous restaurants (with Paul Bocuse at the top of the list) in the region. If Paris has been considered as the fashion capital of France, Lyon in Rhône-Alpes is considered as the country’s gastronomic center. Indeed, this destination is a haven for foodie travellers who are able to learn more about a place through their stomachs and taste buds rather than their eyes. Because Rhône-Alpes shares its borders with the countries of Switzerland and Italy, it is not surprising that these countries have influenced the variety of food that one can sample while visiting Rhône-Alpes. From cured meats to cheese fondue, the locals here provide travellers a sample of these well-loved dishes by contributing their own unique twist to them, and making them uniquely French. In the east of the region the food has an Alpine flavor with dishes such as fondue, raclette common, gratin dauphinois and gratin savoyard. The region is also famous for its Bresse poultry and the many varieties of cheese including Tomme de Savoie, Bleu de Bresse, Reblochon, SaintMarcellin and Vacherin. For several centuries Lyon, capital of RhôneAlpes, has been known as the French capital of gastronomy, due, in part, to the presence of many of France's finest chefs in the city and its surroundings (e.g. Paul Bocuse). This reputation also comes from the fact that two of France's best known wine-growing regions are located near Lyon: the Beaujolais to the North, and the Côtes du Rhône to the South. Beaujolais wine is very popular in Lyon and remains the most common table wine served with local dishes. Lyonnaise cuisine refers to cooking traditions and practices centering on the area around the French city of Lyon and the historical culinary traditions Lyonnais. In the sixteenth century Catherine de Medici, brought cooks from Florence to her court and they prepared dishes from the agricultural products from the regions of France. This was revolutionary, as it combined the fresh, diverse, and indigenous nature of regional produce with the knowhow of Florentine cooks. The result was that regional specialities became elevated in status among royalty and nobility. Lyonnaise cuisine became a crossroads of many regional culinary traditions. A surprising variety of ingredients from many nearby places emerged: summer vegetables from farms in Bresse and Charolais, game from the Dombes, lake fish from Savoy, spring fruits and vegetables from Drôme and Ardèche, and, of course, wines from Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley. In 1935, the famed food critic Curnonsky did not hesitate to describe the city of Lyon as the “world
Paul Bocuse
is a French chef based in Lyon who is famous for the high quality of his restaurants and his innovative approaches to cuisine. He is one of the most prominent chefs associated with the nouvelle cuisine, which is less opulent and calorific than the traditional cuisine classique, and stresses the importance of fresh ingredients of the highest quality. Paul Bocuse claimed that Henri Gault first used the term, nouvelle cuisine, to describe food prepared by Bocuse and other top chefs for the maiden flight of the Concorde airliner in 1969. Bocuse is considered an ambassador of modern French Cuisine. He was honored in 1961 with the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France. Bocuse has made many contributions to French gastronomy both directly and indirectly, because he has had numerous students, many of whom have become famous chefs themselves. One of his students was Austrian Eckart Witzigmann, one of four Chefs of the Century and the first Germanspeaking and the third non-French-speaking chef to receive three Michelin stars. Since 1987, the Bocuse d'Or has been regarded as the most prestigious award for chefs in the world (at least when French food is considered), and is sometimes seen as the unofficial world championship for chefs. Paul Bocuse has received numerous awards throughout his career, including the medal of Commandeur de la Légion d'honneur. Bocuse's main restaurant is the luxury restaurant l'Auberge du Pont de Collonges, near Lyon, which has been serving a traditional menu for decades. It is one of a small number of restaurants in France to receive the coveted three-star rating by the Michelin Guide. In 1975, he created the world famous soupe aux truffes (truffle soup) for a presidential dinner at the Elysée Palace. Since then, the soup has been served in Bocuse's restaurant near Lyon as Soupe V.G.E., V.G.E. being the initials of former president of France Valéry Giscard d'Estaing. He also operates a chain of brasseries in Lyon, named Le Nord, l'Est, Le Sud and l'Ouest, each of which specializes in a different aspect of French cuisine. The Institute Paul Bocuse Worldwide Alliance brings together 10 universities in the United States, Peru, Brazil, Canada, Japan, Taiwan, Greece, Singapore, China and Finland. Each university selects its best students to follow a four-month intensive training at the Institut Paul Bocuse in subjects such as: French Regional Cuisine; the arts de la table; wine selection; cheeses; French cooking terminology; pastry techniques.
The only culinary Institute in the United States with an agreement with Institut Paul Bocuse is the Chef John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls State University in Louisiana. CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 |
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Chestnut Mousse
Recipe
ingredients: 6 ea egg yolks 1/2 c sugar 1c chestnut purée 2T Cognac 1t grated orange zest 1c heavy cream method: Beat yolks until thick and pale yellow. Beat in sugar until thick ribbons form, about 7–10 minutes. Add chestnut purée and cognac and mix well. In clean bowl, whip cream to soft peaks. Spoon into dessert glasses, top with orange zest. Can be topped with whipped cream, grated chocolate, or fresh berries. Serves 6. pictured: marrons glacés(candied chestnuts)
capital of gastronomy”. In the twenty-first century, Lyon's cuisine is defined by simplicity and quality, and is exported to other parts of France and abroad. With more than a thousand eateries, the city of Lyon has one of the highest concentrations of restaurants per capita in France. The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called “bouchons;” the origin of the word is unclear (it literally means “cork”). They appeared at the end of the 19th century and flourished in the 1930s, when the economic crisis forced wealthy families to fire their cooks, who opened their own restaurants for a working-class clientele. These women are referred to as mères (mothers); the most famous of them, Eugénie Brazier, became one of the first chefs to be awarded three stars (the highest ranking) by the famous Michelin gastronomic guide. She also had a young apprentice named Paul Bocuse. Eating in a good bouchon is certainly a must-do. A bouchon serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, duck pâté or roast pork. Compared to other forms of French cooking such as nouvelle cuisine, the dishes are quite fatty and heavily oriented around meat. These dishes are very tasty. They were originally workers' food, so they are generally heavy and the portions are usually quite big. Typically, the emphasis in a bouchon is not on haute cuisine but, rather, a convivial atmosphere and a personal relationship with the owner.
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Typical local dishes served in a bouchon are: salade lyonnaise: green salad with bacon cubes, croutons, mustard dressing and a poached egg; saucisson chaud: a hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine (saucisson beaujolais) or in a bun (saucisson brioché); quenelle de broche: dumplings made of flour and egg with pike fish and served with a crawfish sauce (Nantua sauce); tablier de sapeur: marinated tripe coated with breadcrumbs then fried--even locals often hesitate before trying it; andouillette: sausage made with chopped tripe, usually served with a mustard sauce; boudin noir: blood sausage traditionally served with warm apples gratin dauphinois: the traditional side dish, oven-cooked sliced potatoes with cream; rognons de veau à la moutarde: veal kidneys in a mustard sauce. Delicious and textural experience. coq au vin: chicken cooked with wine, lardons, mushrooms, and optionally garlic.
Le B e au jolais N ou ve au e st Ar rivé !
As the clock strikes midnight on the third Thursday of November, the new vintage of Beaujolais, Beaujolais Nouveau, is released to the world! Over 60 million bottles make the trek to Paris for worldwide distribution. This is a young wine (only 6 weeks old), grown from the Gamay grape, and is very fruity, light-bodied, and virtually tanninfree making for an extremely easy-to-drink red wine. It is best served chilled to really bring the fruit forward and is a popular complement to Thanksgiving dinners, in part due to its annual release date and in part due to its foodfriendliness. According to a French law passed in 1985, Beaujolais Nouveau may not be released earlier than the third Thursday of November. As a result, tradition and custom have set in to make the annual release race of this much loved wine a fun-filled event. Starting with the hand-picking of the grapes in the Beaujolais growing region (part of the Rhône-Alpes Region), followed by carbonic maceration, pressing, and fermentation and on to speedy bottling all to culminate for the release in November. Beaujolais Nouveau is typically meant to be consumed within the first year of release, certainly not a wine that is intended for aging.
The quality is variable since the bouchons are one of the main tourist attractions of the city. In tourist areas, most notably Rue St Jean, pay extra care and stick to trustworthy recommendations if possible. And if someone on the street tries to get you into a restaurant, run. A good bouchon, however, offers very good value for money. Since 1997, Pierre Grison and his organization, L'Association de défense des bouchons lyonnais (The Association for the Preservation of Lyonnais Bouchons), bestow annual certifications to restaurants as “authentic” bouchons. These restaurants receive the title Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnais and are identified with a sticker showing the marionette Gnafron, a Lyonnais symbol of the pleasures of dining, with a glass of wine in one hand and a napkin bearing the Lyon crest in the other. The following is a list of Michelin guide recommended bouchons: La Meunière; Daniel et Denise, La Tête de Lard, Café des Fédérations, Au Petit Bouchon ‘Chez Georges’, Chez Hugon, Cafe du Jura, La Mère Jean, Le Musée, and Le Garet. From a gastronomic standpoint, the Rhône - Alpes region of France is the epicenter. Simply sampling the bounty of ingredients and products from the region -- either in a bouchon, at a Michelin-starred property like Paul Bocuse or in an open air marché Rhône - Alpes is worth the visit. - k.g.
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on the menu a showcase of seasonal menus
p. 34
Criollo at the Monteleone Hotel
p. 36
MiLa Restaurant
p. 35 p. 37 p. 38
Martinique Bistro Dickie Brennan’s
Tableau
Restaurant Directory
on the menu
Modern Creole Criollo Restaurant
214 Royal Street In Hotel Monteleone New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 681-4444 www.criollonola.com
Hours: Open 7 Days a Week Breakfast: 6:30am – 11:00am Lunch: 11:30am – 2:30pm Dinner: 5:30pm – 10:00pm (Sunday – Thursday) 5:30pm – 11:00pm (Friday and Saturday) Fashioned with Louisiana and the Gulf South region’s abundant bounty of fresh, home grown products from land and sea, Criollo Restaurant's ingredient-driven seasonal menu is designed to offer creative dishes inspired by culinary traditions and an appreciation of today's contemporary tastes. Criollo, the Spanish word for Creole, represents the amalgam of cultures reflected in our cooking and the unique tastes that comprise Louisiana cuisine.
APPETIZER
SHRIMP, BLUE CRAB & AVOCADO Chilled Shellfish, Guacamole, Spicy Tomato Coulis
OYSTERS & PEARLS Jumbo Lump CrabMirliton Salad, Crystal Tapioca
SEARED FOIE GRAS Candied Stone Fruit, Verjus, Grilled Brioche
“BARBEQUE” SHRIMP & BOUDIN Creole Dry Rub, Hedgehog Mushroom, Grape Tomato, Shoepeg Corn, Field Peas
CRAWFISH & POLENTA Louisiana Crawfish, Flint Corn Polenta, Eggplant Caviar, Etouffee Sauce
SOUP
CORN & TASSO SOUP Preserved Shrimp
NEW ORLEANS TURTLE SOUP Finished with Oloroso Sherry
SEAFOOD GUMBO Gulf Shrimp & Crawfish
CREOLE TOMATO & BURATTA Prosciutto Rossa, Spring Peas FORAGER Little Gem Lettuce, Shaved Local Beet, Quail Egg, Watermelon Radish, Humboldt Fog Cheese
SEASONAL SALAD Petite Lettuce, Papaya, Sweet Plantain, Hearts of Palm, Peppered Pecans, Medjool Dates, Mango, Feta Cheese, White Honey Dressing
PERDIDO PASS SNAPPER Jumbo Lump Crab, Orange & Fennel Slaw, Roasted Sweet Pepper, Ancho-Lime Butter
SHELLFISH “POT-AU-FEU” Grilled Grouper, Gulf Coast Shrimp, Louisiana Blue Crab, Diver Scallop, Braised Fennel, Citrus Linguini
SALAD
ENTRÉE
GRILLED GROUPER & BUTTER POACHED SHRIMP Roasted Asparagus, Citrus Beurre Blanc
GRILLED POMPANO BARIGOULE Jumbo Lump Crab, Braised Artichoke, Sweet Vermouth PECAN SPECKLED TROUT Crisp Pancetta, Herb Roasted Tomato, Baby Spinach, Fresh Shaved Horseradish, Lemon-Brown Butter
PAN ROASTED MAGRET DUCK Duck Leg Confit, Candied Spring Vegetable, Sun-Dried Cherry Gastrique PORCINI CRUSTED BEEF FILET Twice Baked Yukon Gold Potato,Summer Truffle Butter, Ox-Tail Ragout
CANE MARINATED PORK TENDERLOIN Sweet Potato & Chorizo Hash, Rainbow Chard, AppleTamarind Chipotle Sauce
CHEF DE CUISINE JOSEPH MAYNARD Menu selections subject to change
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CULINARY CONCIERGE | NEW ORLEANS
on the menu
MARTINIQUE B. I.S .T .R .O Sou ps & St arte rs
orange scented pumpkin bisque saffron, parsley oil
charred eggplant & shrimp soup tomato, cumin, toasted fennel seed
wild mushroom beignets
roasted oyster mushrooms, scarlet frill, truffled lemon brown butter
roasted autumn squash & field pea hummus spicy louisiana red beans, cilantro-garlic oil, crispy pepita-pecorino flatbread
escargot nicoise
Tropical French This Uptown eatery has been celebrated by neighborhood diners for 17 years - noted as an “absolute favorite” by all!
Executive Chef Eric LaBouchere and Sous Chef Nat Carrier, pride themselves in preparing dishes with local ingredients, produce, & seafoods procured from area farmers and fishermen.
Martinique is known for fine dining in a sophisticated yet charming, casual atmosphere with a French / Mediterranean eclectic style. Al Fresco dining in a private, open-air courtyard is simply alluring - Come see what all the “hype” is about.
Dinner
fines herbes shell, tomato-garlic fondue, nicoise olive tapenade
Tuesday - Sunday 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.
seared foie gras
Lunch / Brunch
pecan brioche, smoky muscadine gastrique
Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11:00 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
chicken & dumplings
roasted chicken jus, mirepoix, herbs, buttermilk gnocchi a la parisienne
5908 Magazine Street 504.891.8495
Sa lads pistachio crusted goat cheese
Courtyard Dining
locally farmed lettuces, hibiscus-white balsamic vinaigrette
Private Parties
crispy pork belly
martiniquebistro.com
butter lettuce, maytag, tabasco-bacon vinaigrette
burrata
arugula, ashby micro basil, truffled crouton, extra virgin olive oil, roasted tomato reduction
Entre es rosemary butter poached gulf shrimp smoked cheddar-stone ground grit “calas”, crystal-canebrake beurre blanc
pan roasted gulf fish
scallion rice, maine lobster, shaved fennel, roasted tomato-sweet corn court bouillion
seared sea scallops
lemon-edamame coulis, pecorino romano, crispy potato ribbons, absinthe cured pancetta aioli
prince edward isle mussels basquaise
spanish chorizo, feta valbreso, gremolata crouton, red chili-red wine broth
sautéed medallions of pork tenderloin pancetta-potato croquette, wilted greens, blue crab piccata
sesame-black pepper crusted flat iron steak scallion-mushroom pancake, roasted oyster mushrooms, korean pear-shoyu glaze
sweet tea brined oven roasted duck breast tabasco-cracklin’ brittle, chappapeela duck-smoked sweet corn boudin, black strap bourbon jus
braised veal shanks
sage gnocchi, pearl onions, braised mustard greens, roasted tomato-madeira jus
Executive Chef Eric LaBouchere / Sous Chef Nat Carrier
CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 | 35
Modern Southern
36 |
CULINARY CONCIERGE | NEW ORLEANS
on the menu
on the menu
French Creole Revisited TABLEAU
LUNCH MENU
Monday-Saturday 11:30am to 2:30pm
Sandwiches & Po-Boys All served with Pommes Frites TABLEAU TRIPLE CHEESEBURGER (3) 2 oz beef patties, topped with American cheese, housemade pickles, and sliced onion on an egg & onion bun. Served with housemade ketchup and Crystal aioli CRABMEAT RAVIGOTE Jumbo lump crabmeat in a lemon-green onion aioli with chiffonade iceberg lettuce on housemade ciabatta FRIED OYSTER ROCKEFELLER PO-BOY Cornmeal dusted P&J oysters, fried, shaved red onion and lemon aioli served on French bread with creamed spinach and fresh spinach FRIED SHRIMP PO-BOY Louisiana shrimp fried golden brown, with iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato, shaved red onion, and housemade pickle served on French bread with Crystal aioli PANEED VEAL SANDWICH Breaded veal cutlets, pan-fried, with fresh spinach and shaved red onion - served on housemade ciabatta with St. Agur bleu cheese BLACKENED CHICKEN SANDWICH Dressed with gruyere, fresh spinach, shaved onion on a egg and onion bun Entrée Salads served with half cup of Turtle Soup or French Onion Soup BLEU CHEESE SALAD Spinach, celery, pecans, shaved red onions, and seasonal fruit tossed with a sherry-cane vinaigrette and set aside a square of St. Agur bleu cheese SEAFOOD & ASPARAGUS Chilled asparagus topped with jumbo lump crabmeat ravigote, boiled shrimp and sliced tomato, dressed with a lemon-tarragon Dijon vinaigrette GRILLED CHICKEN MAISON Sliced chicken breast atop romaine and iceberg lettuce with tomato, red onion, hearts of palm, and cucumber, drizzled with a lemon-tarragon Dijon vinaigrette FRIED OYSTER SALAD Over spinach with pecans, shaved red onions, sherry cane vinaigrette and goat cheese
616 St. Peter Street New Orleans, LA 70116 Phone: 504.934.3463 Monday - Thursday 11:30AM - 10:00PM Friday 11:30AM - 11:00PM Saturday 11:30AM - 11:00PM Sunday 10:00AM - 10:00PM Brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays. Located on picturesque Jackson Square at Le Petit Theatre, Tableau is Dickie Brennan’s newest restaurant. The menu, developed by Chef Ben Thibodeaux, showcases regional ingredients and revisits classic French Creole dishes. The cuisine is sophisticated, yet true to tradition, with great depth of flavor. Guests enjoy a front row seat to the culinary action beside the open kitchen in the restaurant’s main dining room. Make sure to check out the Courtyard; as well as, the balcony with a birds eye view of Jackson Square.
DAILY BAR SPECIALS ~ 3 PM – 7 PM $5 Classic Cocktails, Wines by the Glass, $3.50 Draft Pints $7 Beer & “Uh” Pour Local Beers Expertly Paired with Spirits over Ice BAR SNACKS Pommes Frites with Housemade Ketchup & Crystal Aioli Poutine Pommes Frites with French Onion and Gruyere Housemade Creole Cream Cheese with Pepper Jelly & Toast Points Truffled White Bean Puree served with Toast Points CULINARY CONCIERGE | FALL / HOLIDAY 2013 | 37
RESTAURANT
DIRECTORY
Acme Oyster House 724 Iberville Street - French Quarter
504.522.5973
New Orleans Seafood No Reservations Average Entrée: $15; All Major Credit Cards acmeoyster.com Sunday -Thursday: 11AM -10PM; Friday-Saturday: 11AM-11PM Raw Oysters; Char-Grilled Oysters; Oyster Shooters; Gumbo; Oyster Rockefeller Soup; Jambalaya; Red Beans& Rice; Po-Boys
1 Antoine’s French Creole
713 St. Louis Street - French Quarter
504.581.4422
Reservations Recommended antoines.com
Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards Lunch Served Friday, Dinner Mon. & Thurs. - Sat., Sun. Brunch Escargots a la Bourguignonne, Pompano Pontchartrain, Cotelettes d'agneau Grillées, Chateaubriand, Omelette Alaska Antoine
Arnaud’s
813 Bienville Street - French Quarter
504.523.5433
Classic Creole Average Entrée: $25; All Major Credit Cards Dinner Nightly, Jazz Brunch Sun., Jazz Nightly in Jazz Bistro Shrimp Arnaud, Turtle Soup, Trout Meunière, Soufflé Potatoes with Béarnaise Sauce
Restaurant August
Reservations Recommended arnauds.com
301 Tchoupitoulas Street - CBD
504.299.9777
Contemporary French Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards rest-august.com Lunch Monday - Friday, Dinner 7 Days a Week Hand-Made Potato Gnocchi tossed with Crabmeat & Truffle, Roasted Rack and Braised Shoulder of Lamb with Lamb Sweetbread Ragôut
House 2 Bourbon New Orleans Seafood
144 Bourbon Street - French Quarter
504.522.0111
Reservations Not Required bourbonhouse.com
Average Entrée: $21; All Major Credit Cards Lunch & Dinner Served Daily Plateaux de Fruits de Mer, Redfish on the Half Shell, Deviled Stuffed Crab
Broussard’s
819 Rue Conti - French Quarter
504.581.3866
Continental Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $29; All Major Credit Cards broussards.com Dinner Monday - Sunday 5:30 pm - 10:00 pm Turtle Soup au Sherry, Wild Gulf Shrimp Herbsaint, Creole Spice-Crusted Aged Ribeye, Tournedos La Louisiane, Delice Madame P for Two
Café Adelaide
300 Poydras Street - CBD
504.595.3305
Contemporary Creole Average Entrée: $29; All Major Credit Cards Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Mon. - Sat. BBQ Shrimp Shortcake, Shrimp and Grits, Old Fashioned Duck Breast and Crispy Oysters
Cochon
Reservations Recommended cafeadelaide.com
930 Tchoupitoulas Street - Warehouse District
504.588.2123
Cajun and Southern Cuisine Reservations Available Average Entrée: $20; All Major Credit Cards cochonrestaurant.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Mon. - Sat. “Link” Sausage with Stone Ground Grits, Louisiana Cochon du Lait, Rabbit & Dumplings, Oyster & Bacon Sandwich, Catfish Sauce Piquante
Commander’s Palace
1403 Washington Avenue - Garden District
504.899.8221
Contemporary Creole Reservations Required Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards commanderspalace.com Lunch & Dinner Served Mon. - Fri., Brunch Sat. & Sun. Gulf Hake Ceviche, Gumbo, Turtle Soup au Sherry, Black Skillet Seared Muscovy Duck Breast, Onion-Crusted Gulf Snapper
in the Monteleone Hotel 214 Royal Street - French Quarter 3 Criollo Spanish, French, African and Caribbean Cuisine
MENU p. 34 504.681.4444
Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $16; All Major Credit Cards hotelmonteleone.com/criollo Breakfast: 6:30 a.m. - 11:00 a.m. Lunch: 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Dinner: 5:30 - until Country Style Heirloom Tomato Galette, Grilled Shellfish Panzanella Salad, Softshell Crab “BLT”; Pan Seared Diver Scallops & Short Rib
Brennan’s Steakhouse 4 Dickie Prime Steaks
716 Iberville Street - French Quarter
504.522.2467
Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $31; All Major Credit Cards dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Nightly Barbeque Rib-Eye topped with Abita beer Barbque Shrimp, Tomato-Bleu Cheese Napoleon, Bananas Foster Bread Pudding
Domenica
123 Baronne Street - CBD
504.648.6020
Italian Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: Under $30 ; All Major Credit Cards chefjohnbesh.com Lunch and Dinner served Daily Housemade Salumi with Torta Fritta; Octopus Carpaccio; Squash Blossoms with Goat Cheese; Lasagne Bolognese; Gianduja Budino
Drago’s
Two Poydras Street, Hilton Hotel - CBD; 3232 North Arnoult Road
Emeril’s
800 Tchoupitoulas Street, New Orleans - Warehouse District
Seafood Average Entrée: $20; All Major Credit Cards Lunch & Dinner Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Served Sat. Charbroiled Oysters, Mama Ruth’s Gumbo, Lobster, Crescent City Shrimp, Seafood Platters
504.888.9254
Reservations not Taken dragosrestaurant.com
504.528.9393
Creole, Seafood Reservations Required Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards emerils.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri. Dinner Served Nightly New Orleans Barbecue Shrimp Served with Rosemary Biscuits, Banana Cream Pie with Banana Crust, Caramel Sauce and Chocolate Shavings
Galatoire’s
209 Bourbon Street - French Quarter
French Creole Average Entrée: $22; All Major Credit Cards Lunch & Dinner Served Tues. - Sun. Shrimp Rémoulade, Oysters Rockefeller, Trout Amandine, Crabmeat Maison, Chicken Clemenceau
The Grill Room at the Windsor Court Hotel
300 Gravier - CBD
504.525.2021
Reservations Available galatoires.com
504.523.6000 ext.7098
Contemporary American Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $32; All Major Credit Cards windsorcourthotel.com Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Served Daily Grill Room Oysters, Gulf Seafood Stew, Basil-Fed Snails with Herb Butter, Grass Fed Veal Porterhouse, Grilled Black Hog Pork Chop
GW Fins
808 Bienville Street - French Quarter
504.581.FINS
Global Seafood Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards gwfins.com Dinner Served Nightly until 11pm Crab Potstickers with Pea Shoot Butter, Louisiana Stone Crab Claws, Cashew-Peppercorn Crusted Swordfish, Wood Grilled Sea Scallops
337 Chartres St. - French Quarter 5 Kingfish Savour. Sip. Social.
504.598.5005
Reservations Accepted Average Entrée: $22; All Major Credit Cards kingfishneworleans.com Lunch Served Mon. - Sun. 11:30 - 2:30 pm, Dinner Sun. - Thurs. 5:30 - 10:00 pm; Fri. - Sat. 5:30 - 11:00 pm Oysters Thermidor, Shrimp Gaufre, Smoked Rabbit Gumbo,"Every Man a King" Fish, "Junky Chick" Rotisserie, Saratoga Steak Frites
La Petite Grocery
4238 Magazine St. - Uptown
504.891.3377
Contemporary Southern Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $26; All Major Credit Cards lapetitegrocery.com Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thu 5:30-9:30; Fri-Sat 5:30 - 10:30; Brunch: Sun 10:30-2:30 Crab Beignets with malt vinegar aioli; Ricotta Dumplings with lobster, field peas & oregano; Gulf Shrimp and Grits, Alabama Peach Upside-Down Cake
Luke 333 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans - Central Business District
504.378.2840
Marriott 5 Fifty 5
504.553.5638
Brasserie Fare Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $20; All Major Credit Cards chefjohnbesh.com Open Daily, 7 a.m. - 11 p.m. - Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Pate of Louisiana Rabbit and Duck Livers, Moules and Frites, Grilled Paillard of Organic Chicken, Jumbo Louisiana Shrimp “En Cocotte”
555 Canal Street - French Quarter
Contemporary American Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards marriott.com Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Served Daily. Seared Jumbo Scallops, Crispy Duck Leg Confit with Citrus Jus, Creole Mustard Glazed Niman Ranch Prok Tenderloin, Roasted Free-Range Chicken
Bistro 6 Martinique Tropical French
5908 Magazine Street - Uptown
MENU p. 35
504.891.8495
Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $20; All Major Credit Cards martiniquebistro.com Lunch Served Thur. - Sat., Dinner Served Tues. - Sun., Brunch Served Sunday Grilled New Zealand Venison, Molasses Cured Oven Roasted Duck Breast & Confit Leq Quarter, Housemade Sorbets and Ice Creams
M Bistro Ritz-Carlton Hotel - 921 Canal Street - French Quarter
504.524.1331
Brasserie Fare Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $25; All Major Credit Cards ritzcarlton.com Open Daily, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner New Orleans BBQ “Shrimp & Grits”; Muffaletta Panzanella Salad, Filet of Beef with Blue Crab Bearnaise, Mini Beignet Bites
Restaurant 7 MiLA Seasonal Southern Fare
817 Common Street - New Orleans
MENU p. 36
504.412.2580
Reservations Available Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards milaneworleans.com Lunch: Monday - Friday, 11:30 am - 2:30 pm Dinner: Monday - Saturday 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm Oyster Rockefeller "Deconstructed"; Pan-Roasted Sweetbreads with Creamy Black Truffle GritsSweet Tea Brined Rotisserie Duck
1403 St. Charles Avenue - New Orleans 8 Miyako Japanese Seafood & Steak House
504.410.9997
Reservations Available japanesebistro.com
Average Entrée: $15 Average Sushi Rolls: $5; All Major Credit Cards Lunch & Dinner Served Daily Sushi, Sashimi, Miyako Rolls, Hibachi Lobster Tail, Filet, Steak, Shrimp, Scallops, Calamari
Jackson Square 9 Muriel’s Contemporary Creole Dining
801 Chartres Street - French Quarter
504.568.1885
Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $20; All Major Credit Cards muriels.com Lunch and Dinner Served 7 Days, Sunday Jazz Brunch Turtle Soup, Wood-Grilled BBQ Shrimp, Pecan-Crusted Drum with Crabmeat Relish, Wood Grilled Rib-Eye; Wood Grilled Gulf Fish
Café 605 Canal Street - CBD/French Quarter 10 Palace Contemporary Creole
Average Entrée: $21; All Major Credit Cards Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Mon. - Sat., Brunch Sunday Crabmeat Cheesecake, Pepper-Crusted Duck with Seared Foie Gras, White Chocolate Bread Pudding
Ralph’s on the Park
900 City Park Avenue - Mid-City
504.523.1661
Reservations Recommended palacecafe.com
504.488.1000
Globally Inspired Local Menu Reservations Reccomended Average Entrée: $23; All Major Credit Cards ralphsonthepark.com Dinner: Monday - Sunday: 5:30 pm – 9 pm; Friday Lunch 11:30 - 2 pm; Sunday Brunch 11 am - 2 pm Wild Mushroom Ravioli with Garlic Boursin Cheese, Sweet Vermouth Sauce & Crispy Leeks; Painted Hills Hanger Steak with pommes frites
Rene Bistrot
700 Tchoupitoulas - Warehouse District
504.613.2350
Contemporary French Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $23; All Major Credit Cards renebistrotneworleans.com Lunch 11:30 - 2:30 pm, Dinner: Monday - Saturday 6 - 10 pm; Sunday 6 - 9 pm Sunday Brunch 11:30 - 2:30 pm Onion Soup "René", Tarte Flambeé Traditional Alsatian Tart, Pot of Mussels; Roasted Belle Rouge Half Chicken; Seared Lantern Scallops
R’evolution in the Royal Sonesta Hotel 777 Bienville St. - French Quarter 11 Restaurant Imaginative Reinterpretations of Classic Cajun and Creole cuisine
504.553.2277
Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $32; All Major Credit Cards revolutionnola.com Dinner: Sunday-Thursday 5 -10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 -11 p.m. Death by Gumbo, Creole Louisiana Snapping Turtle Soup, Crabmeat-stuffed Louisiana Frog Legs, Panéed Veal Chop with Truffle Aïoli
Rib Room at The Royal Orleans Hotel
621 St. Louis - French Quarter
504.529.7046
Prime Rib/ French Rotisserie/Modern American Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards ribroomneworleans.com Open Daily 6:30 a.m. - 10 pm Warm Shrimp “Remoulade Style”, Roasted Prime Rib of Beef, Cast Iron Seared Filet Mignon with Southern Comfort - Cane Syrup Reduction
SoBou 310 Rue Chartres- French Quarter
504.552.4095
Stella!
504.587.0091
Spirits and Small Plates Reservations Available Average Entrée: $17; Small Plates: $7-$12 All Major Credit Cards sobounola.com Open Daily serving Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Brunch Duck Debris and Butternut Beignets; Crispy Oyster Tacos; French Market Veal Sandwich; Crispy Boudin Balls; Chocolate Coma Bar
1032 Chartres Street, Hotel Provincial - French Quarter
Contemporary New Orleans Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $36; All Major Credit Cards restaurantstella.com Dinner Served Nightly Pan-Seared Dry Pack Scallops and Jumbo Gulf Shrimp with Truffle Andouille New Potato Hash and Caviar Butter; Chef’s Tasting Menu
12 Tableau
616 St. Peter Street at Jackson Square - French Quarter
MENU p. 37
504.934.3463
French Creole Cuisine with a Twist Reservations Accepted Average Entrée: $22; All Major Credit Cards tableaufrenchquareter.com Monday -Thursday 11:30 am-10pm; Fri - Sat 11:30 am - 11:00 pm; Sunday 10:00 am - 10:00 pm Shrimp Rémoulade, Oysters en Brochette, Crabmeat Ravigote, Truffled Crab Fingers, Creole French Onion Soup, Tournedos Rossini Moderne
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