TRAVEL

Sara Moran

The Parlour is exquisite – the perfect setting for an extravagant yet delicate afternoon tea.

The Great Scotland Yard Hotel itself is scattered with reminders that you are at what was once the great whodunnit focus of many an intriguing novel and the centre of the Metropolitan Police from 1829 until 2016. The building has now been adopted as part of the Unbound Collection by Hyatt, which are all one-of-a-kind hotels with stories at the heart of them.

Fortunately, no detective work is required to enjoy a magnificent afternoon tea at the Parlour – an experience steeped in history, with subtle flavours and delightful pastry work. For this particular tea, the hotel has teamed up with Floris, the oldest English retailer of fragrances and perfumery to the Queen. Floris – established in 1730 – has been making London smell fragrant for longer than the Metropolitan police have existed.

The Parlour is an eccentric yet elegant space in the hotel, with chess-board flooring, wallpaper depicting exotic sepia-toned scenes and a unique, recessed grandfather clock. A fitting space for this seasonal tea, which reflects specifically chosen scents and brings to life the multi-sensory experience. The chosen fragrance for this season’s afternoon tea menu is inspired by Bouquet de la Reine, the perfume created for Queen Victoria’s wedding.

It all starts with some fizz, Ruinart champagne, to be specific, a delicious way to start any venture that taps into all the senses and much better than starting with tea which would have been a scandal worthy of investigation. The choice of teas ranges from green to herbal to the more traditional Earl Grey and English breakfast options. I’d thoroughly recommend the green tea, a light fragrant brew.

The highlight, for me personally, was the exquisite cakes that pastry chef Verónica Garrido Martínez has created. Verónica is a creative with a sweet-tooth clearly, further evidenced by the flavours that have been incorporated into the delightful treats that keep arriving at the table. These morsels include rose-and-pistachio drizzle cake and delicate violet-leaf madeleines alongside the more traditional fare of scones paired with strawberry-and-elderflower jam and lashings of cream. Verónica’s only crime is the fact that she’s added to my ever expanding waistline and for that she must be banished to the kitchen. www.hyattrestaurants.com/en/dining/uk/london/british-restaurant-in-westminster-the-parlour

Tracy Borman

The Italian Greyhound is a popular breed, known to be graceful, sleek and elegant – so it’s the perfect name for this new Marylebone bar and dining room. Although it’s just a stone’s throw from the western end of Oxford Street, it could be a million miles away, thanks to the peace and tranquillity it offers. First impressions are appealing. The décor is stylish and understated, the music mellow and relaxed, and the staff friendly and welcoming. We ate early and had our pick of the tables, but by the time we left there were few to be had. Clearly, word has got around during the three months since this hidden gem opened.

The menus offer fresh, seasonal dishes that claim to be a celebration of Italian dining and drinking: an homage to the neighbourhood bars or ‘bacaros’ of Italy. The menu is cleverly designed to cater for both bar snackers and full diners, with small plates and ‘pizzette,’ through to more substantial pasta, meat and fish dishes.

While trying to decide, we munched our way through a portion of chickpea chips – melt-in-the-mouth saltiness with a hint of sage. These, we washed down with two elegantly presented cocktails: an ‘Amante’ (brandy, Stellacello, orange, walnut and grapefruit) and Watermelon & Basil Collins (gin, watermelon, basil and lime).

After much agonising (I seriously contemplated asking for a little of everything), we plumped for a creamy burrata with tomato and pesto, and smoked yellowfin tuna with coco blanc to start, followed by chalk stream trout with baby beets and dry-aged ribeye with fresh borlotti beans. The accompanying salad was perfectly dressed and seasoned, and the focaccia was soft, salty perfection. Somehow, we found room for dessert (given the options available, it would have been rude not to). The fig and almond tart was encased in the most buttery, crumbly pastry ever created, while the pistachio tiramisu was a heavenly, silky twist on the classic.

The wine list comprises the best regional varieties that Italy can offer. We went for Grillo ‘Il Folle’ – a Sicilian white grape that was light, crisp and perfectly chilled. The list is handily organised by type as well as region, so whether you’re looking for ‘earthy’, ‘aromatic’ or ‘full bodied’, there is something for every palate. There is also an impressive selection of beers, spirits and cocktails.

Although this was a grown-up evening, there is a ‘bambini’ menu and food is served all day. Ultimately, there is much to admire in this new addition to W1: I would encourage any self-respecting diner to make like a greyhound and speed their way there. www.theitaliangreyhound.co.uk

Kate Weir Sid Raghava

One of our favourite Chelsea bars is Callooh Callay, a sort of boozy Narnia that you enter via a wardrobe door. Here the night slips away in eccentrically luxe lounges that nod to geishas and the Jabberwocky amid rounds of drinks with names such as Berry Me and Pinkitty Drinkitty and fusion small plates such as sea-bream ceviche with yuzu kosho and tuna tostadas with matcha sauce. So, when we heard that their sister bar the Duchess of Dalston had opened, we followed the fun east to see what madcap fun owner Richard Wynne continues to cook up.

Slotted in between a newsagents and Chick ‘n’ Sours on Kingsland Road, the Duchess is an unassuming sort whose grandeur boldly folds inwards like a baroque Tardis. A wood-topped bar with kitchen-like cabinetry above runs along the right side, and to the left are banquettes just big enough for date-night tête-à-têtes; but the scene-stealer is the elaborate ceiling, affixed with ornate, effectively mismatched tiles sourced in China.There’s also some animal-roamed wallpapers in the bathrooms and eye-catching art along the walls.

As in Callooh Callay, here cocktails are the fuel for what the owner terms ‘serious fun’ – the fun may feel more frivolous and increasingly messy (in the best possible fashion) IRL, but the drinks are serious for sure – we should know – we completed the menu. We started with a Snicker Snack, a hip take on a Pina Colada with roasted pineapple and cola cordial, moving through a Guts & Glory with coconut-washed whisky and pandan-leaf cordial; an Ermine with strawberry and balsamic gin, port and thyme syrup; Dalston Ace with mezcal, watermelon and lime syrup and grapefruit; and – we think, through a haze of merry-making – we finished on an Aunty’s Special, infused with Vietnamese coffee to give you a flavourful pat on the face.

We wouldn’t have been able to complete such a feat of drinking without something to line our stomachs and the Duchess has an excellent selection of taquitos and ceviche. We especially liked the salmon and cucumber salsa cradled in crispy nori shells, and the tempura fish taquitos with wasabi kewpie; but vegetarians fare very well here too: fried banana flowers were a texturally pleasing substitute for fish and the black cauliflower, Chinese treacle and almond matcha salsa taquitos are uniquely delicious. All together, the Duchess offers hedonistic evenings, low-lit trysts and a cocktail menu you’ll want to dip into again and again – and even as we struggle through the hangovers, we’re planning to dive in headfirst once again.

Find the Duchess of Dalston at 392 Kingsland Road, www.duchessofdalston.com Flora Indica is a book which came out in 1855. It was a comprehensive compendium of epic discoveries made by pioneering Scottish botanists in 19th century India. It is a fitting name especially since Flora Indica expertly combines the best of British innovation and India’s historical connection with beneficial use of herbs and plants such as those espoused through the ancient discipline/science of Ayurveda.

As you enter this rather stylish eatery at the corner of Old Brompton Road, you’ll be thrilled by the Victorian steampunk vibes that reverberate within the zinc, copper and brass touches. The food at Flora Indica is an accomplished collaboration of Indian heritage and quality British produce. It is modern and innovative whilst still staying true to classic flavours. There is even a house amber ale brewed locally in Kensington and Chelsea (W10) by Portobello Brewery to complement the wizardry of some rather leftfield small plates, at least by London standards, such as Baby Bitter Gourd and Delica Pumpkin Kadi (the latter being the original Indian pronunciation of curry or curry leaves – the word comes from it). There is also an interesting take on Indian street food with the fabulous Jerusalem Artichoke Papdi Chaat.

As you’d expect at a place with botanical connections, vegans can feel completely at home here with dishes such as the wonderfully balanced Sauteed Zucchini and Carrot laced with coconut, curry leaves and ginger chilli). For meat and game lovers, there is a Venison Biryani is to die for.

For those with a sweet tooth, the Warm Candy Beetroot Halwas served with Amarkhand (a clotted cream flavoured with mangoes) and seasonal berries tops off the thoroughly enjoyable fare at Flora Indica.

All in all, Flora Indica is a class act which delivers on ts wonderfully exquisite concept through immaculate execution and finishing and is indeed a triumph of Indo-British cuisine.

Flora Indica 242 Old Brompton Road, Earls Court, London, SW5 0DE www.flora-indica.com

A Luna Adventure

In search of some peace, serenity and serious R&R, Lisa Curtiss planned a weekend escape in the country that was rather out of this world.

Thankfully finally free of UK Covid travel lockdown limitations, the quest was on for a family getaway, one not too far from home, but a welcome scenic change to enjoy the outdoors, connect with nature and relax. Fancying a change from hotels, and wanting a little more luxury than camping affords, we discovered a place called Luna Domes which looked ideal.

Nestled deep in the picturesque scenery of the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Luna Domes offers short breaks for reflection, relaxation, creativity, connection or recreation. There are three domes available, each tucked away in stunning natural surroundings. Totally private, they allow for peaceful breaks for those of us wanting to get away from normal life and escape to nature any time of the year.

Visually – think a kind of miniature Eden Experience (or a kind of see-through igloo!) The domes’ interiors are gorgeous and have natural wood-burning fires, panoramic views and sumptuously soft furnishings. They manage to combine the best of luxury hotel accommodation with the natureconnection of camping, all with the home comforts you expect. We visited early Autumn but they are perfect for pretty much any time of year. Two of the domes even come with outdoor hot tubs you can enjoy whatever the weather.

The domes have a mini kitchen area, and large spacious decks with a gas BBQ and outdoor seating. You don’t need to bring loads of food as the excellent Falconhurst Farm Shop in Markbeech is just a few minutes away, offering special BBQ packs and all sorts of fruit, veg and other delicious items.

Once settled in at the Domes, if you can tear yourself away from the hot tub, a host of family friendly activities are close by. We thoroughly enjoyed paddleboard lessons, and a ‘Go Ape’ tree top adventure. Beautiful Hever Castle is just a short drive away, and one of the best examples of a moated castle in the UK - which also happens to be the childhood home of Henry VIII’s famous second wife, Anne Boleyn. Chiddingstone Castle is close by also and easy to cycle to.

If you’d rather just relax, this is the perfect place for sunrise yoga or forest bathing. An immersive form of Japanese meditation, it’s believed absorbing the forest through our five senses of sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch provides the perfect antidote to the stresses of everyday life.

If you fancy dining out during your stay, there are several pubs and restaurants in close proximity, including The Little Brown Jug, the Rock Pub, and Fine Wheatsheaf all worth a visit. For finer dining, head to pretty Royal Tunbridge Wells where you’ll find the likes of The Ivy, Coco Retro, Thackeries and The Twenty Six. Our vehicle of choice for this escape was Mazda’s rather excellent CX-5. A spacious, stylish SUV that’s equally great to drive on winding country roads or motorways. It’s an engaging drive and super-comfortable for passengers too - plus the sizable boot can easily accommodate a family’s worth of cases, bags and fitness kit. It also happens to be one of the most attractive SUVs around, is very well built and hugely reliable. Visit: https://lunadomes.com/ and www.mazda.co.uk

From Narva with Love

Narva Castle and Ivangorod Fortress - Tõnu Tunnel courtesy of Station Narva

By Sarah Lavigne. On a summer’s day, Narva’s medieval Hermann Castle flies its Estonian flag against a blue sky, its rectangular white tower overlooking the fast-flowing Narva river. Under the tower’s red roof, a wooden gallery opens narrow windows to the city’s life: to the families walking along the river promenade; to the fishermen almost waist-deep in the water; to the border guards patrolling the concrete Friendship bridge, and, on the opposite riverbank, just over 150m away, to the imposing Ivangorod fortress, another medieval construction, this one on Russian soil.

But tonight, Hermann tower basks in pink spotlights. At its foot, in the castle’s cobbled yard, a tireless festival crowd is dancing to the riotous beats of Drum and Bass pioneer Roni Size. In a shower of coloured lights, strobes and smoke, the iconic Bristol DJ fuses past and future, mixing into his set his seminal Brown Paper Bag, Massive Attack samples, The White Stripes riffs and new material. Roni Size is headlining Station Narva, a cross-genre music festival in Estonia’s easternmost city, where internationally renowned artists share stages with local icons and emerging talent. But Station Narva is more than a music festival: it is a key agent in the wider cultural transformation currently brewing in Estonia’s border city.

A gateway between Russia and the European Union, the city of Narva projects a unique vibe. Home to a large majority (over 95%) of Russian speakers, drafted from Russia, Belarus or Ukraine during Soviet times, it is culturally closer to Russia, its residents catching Russian TV from the other side of the river. At first glance a post-Soviet city, its derelict factories betraying its once thriving industrial past, Narva is on the edge of becoming one of the hotspots of creative life in Estonia.

The collapse of the Soviet Union built an overnight border between Russia and a newly independent Estonia, separating people from their families and places of work. With Estonia’s independence - and the closure of factories - also came social and economic hardships (citizenship hurdles, language barriers and unemployment) that left the Russian-speaking community of Narva feeling somewhat marginalised. In recent years, however, Estonia has made a conscious effort to reach out to its Russian-speaking people - and Narva finds itself at the epicentre of a creative revolution. Station Narva is playing a pivotal role by bringing music to the Russian enclave, encouraging proud voices from local artists and introducing Narva as a true music destination.

And it’s with the sounds of another electronic music pioneer - this time from Estonia - that this 4th edition opened its doors. The dramatic organ chords, sharp rhythmic noises, gongs and melodic synths of Sven Grünberg’s Hingus (Breath) filled the vaulted space of Narva Castle’s refectory. With unflappable concentration, the Ensemble of the Estonian Electronic Music Society recreated Grünberg’s work through an impressive arrangement of keyboards, synths, computers and effects pedals, bringing 1970s sounds to 2021.

The next two days at Narva Castle were filled with an eclectic blend of rock, electro and classical music in a programme carefully crafted to blur cultural boundaries of time and space. The feel-good pop of Estonian legend Vaiko Eplik and supergroup Eliit, the smooth R&B of young vocalist Yasmyn and the melancholic Americana of Holy Motors all provided exciting examples of Estonia’s scene past and present.

Representing Narva itself, rock veterans AveNue filled the main stage with high energy, catchy hooks and definite Russian flavour, complete with accordion and Cossack moves, while up-and-coming outfit Уe played their emotive Russian-language rock songs to an already loyal audience. After hours at Club RoRo – a quirky alternative bar and music venue on the river shore - indie band Pale Alison continued to showcase the Narva scene. Due to Covid, a last-minute programme update brought more UK electronic sounds to the main stage where acid house legend A Guy Called Gerald and talented sound designer Nathan Fake dropped ultra-danceable beats, replacing Iceland’s electronic veterans GusGus.

Ye Dormitorium Stage - Anna Markova courtesy of Station Narva 4+4=infinity exhibition - Anastassia Volkova courtesy of Station Narva

melodic to monotone, emotions ran highest when Estonian musicians Janno Reim and Stanislav Bulgarin played their tribute to Kino, Russia’s most influential 1980s rock band. Cradled by the castle’s stone walls, the intimate courtyard was packed with a nostalgic crowd who joined in the catchy, moody choruses once sung by Viktor Tsoi. Kino’s charismatic leader may have passed away 30 years ago but he remains a true icon in ex-Soviet countries.

Previous editions of Station Narva were partly hosted at the former Kreenholm Textile Factory. A thriving centre of activity since its construction in the mid-19th century, with houses, schools and stores built nearby for workers, the site is now a vast ghost town of brick buildings, hanging industrial lamps and broken windowpanes, overlooking drained riverbeds. Abandoned cabinets and signs in Cyrillic rust in overgrown corners, while old rail tracks lead nowhere, some sections having been sold for scrap metal. In a long room that stretches into darkness, an old weaving machine stands unused, loose thread weeping from its rusty frame. It seems to mourn the rush of its past.

But, like Narva, the factory that once employed over 10,000 workers is being given a new life, reimagined as a creative hotspot within the shell of its former glory. Narva is facing further challenges as more factories – which run on fossil fuels – are due to close under new EU legislation, igniting a need to transition and diversify its economy. So, alongside the music, Station Narva held a 2-day conference where business collided with culture, and industry professionals unpicked the city’s current issues and reimagined its creative future.

Presentations in Russian and Estonian took place at Objekt, a hip coworking and digital media hub in a former military factory complex. Next door, the building’s industrial past is celebrated in a vast exhibition space: crumbling plaster, concrete floor and exposed bricks were a fittingly austere backdrop to the 4+4= infinity exhibition. Uniting four artists from the Narva region and four more from the rest of Estonia, the striking collection of black and white photographs distorted and blurred nature or human form between past and future, fusing old and new media. Also housed in this post-industrial complex are the Vaba Lava performance arts centre, an association supporting independent theatre companies, and Kohvik No2, a hip spot for coffee and light bites.

Most of Narva was destroyed in the Second World War, but inside Hermann Castle, also the Narva Museum, its history comes alive though photographs, maquettes, artifacts and, in the old storehouse, sculptures and paintings. From the tower’s gallery, a few memories of old Narva peek from among trees and grey Soviet buildings: the red brick and slate-grey domes of the Neo-Byzantine Lord Resurrection Cathedral, built for the orthodox workers of the Kreenholm factory, and the pastel-blue bell tower of the Neo-Gothic Alexander Cathedral, this one built for the Lutheran employees. On the northern side appears the Town Hall, an imposing Baroque house built under Swedish rule. The adjacent stock exchange, however, was razed during the bombing. Only its underground vaults remain and are now part of the Narva Campus of Tartu University; however, its beautiful Baroque façade was recreated at the front of the University’s modernist building, honouring the city’s heritage.

Narva is a city in transition. From behind its post-industrial facades is emerging a edgy cultural scene that puts the city on the destination map. Some challenges persist, and not all are sold on the cultural revolution, instead longing for the stability of its industrial history. While some hang on to Narva’s past; others look to its future. But tonight, we’re stomping the worn cobbles of the medieval castle, flooded in spotlights and dazed by Roni Size’s jungle beats: we’re living in the moment, immersed only in Narva’s present.

Fact Box

Stay:

Meresuu Spa Hotel. https://www.meresuu.ee/en/spa-hotel-ida-virumaa/ Tulivee Villa http://www.tulivee.ee/en/tulivee/accommodations/

Dine:

Kohvik Muna https://www.kohvikmuna.ee/en/ Rondeel at Narva Castle https://rondeel.ee

Great Autumn British Road Trips

This season’s a wonderful time to escape the grey of the city and head out to our countryside in all its golden Autumn glory. Here are a few suggestions where the views are particularly spectacular.

Route 1. Kendal to Keswick

Enjoy the best of the Lake District in one 38-mile drive via the A591, which runs along the banks of Windermere and Thirlmere, then the cloud-grazing Lakeland fells, through countryside that has inspired artists and writers. The village of Grasmere is perfect for a pit stop.

Route 2. Cheddar Gorge

See Cheddar’s soaring limestone cliffs along the twists and turns of the B3135. This 18-mile route will take you past craggy bluffs from Bridgwater to the Cheddar Gorge. Take the A372 east from Bridgwater, then the A361 north-east, before joining the B3131 and on to the B3135.

Route 3. Ribblehead Viaduct

Enjoy the beautiful Yorkshire Dales from the village of Hornby to the Ribblehead Viaduct, along the A683, A687 and B6255, encompassing wild woodlands, pitted peaks and lush, grassy valleys. This 15-mile trip ends beneath the famous 400-metre-high viaduct, which first carried locomotives in 1875. If you continue for another six miles on the Buttertubs Pass between Thwaite and Hawes you’ll encounter thrilling descents and hairpins.

Route 4. Snow Roads Scenic Route

You’ll see some of the Highlands’ most beautiful scenery along the A93 from Blairgowrie, which is Britain’s highest public road. Drive northwards, taking the A939 from Ballater, passing towns, crumbling castles and the Cairnwell chairlift (open all year, for skiers and hikers alike). You’ll finish this 89-mile route in charming Grantown-on-Spey.

Route 5. The Atlantic Highway

One of England’s greatest coastal routes runs between Barnstaple (Devon) and Newquay (Cornwall) along the A39 and A3059, covering 75 miles of glorious beaches, dramatic clifftops and rolling surf. From Newquay you can extend the trip for a further 41 miles by following the A3075 and A30 to Land’s End, the most westerly tip of mainland Britain.

Route 6. The Coastal Way

The Coastal Way is 180 miles long, stretching the entire length of Cardigan Bay. You’ll encounter empty beaches and traffic-free roads with edge-of-the-world views. There are plenty of interesting stop-off opportunities, where you can join dolphin safaris, forest foraging tours, and kayaking. Interesting towns and villages along the way include Cardigan, Aberaeron, Aberystwyth and Aberdovey, reached via the A487

Route 7. North Coast 500

Start this circular route in Inverness and drive clockwise heading for northern Scotland’s coast, through Muir of Ord, Applecross, Ullapool, John O’Groats, Wick, Dunrobin Castle and Dingwall, before returning to Inverness. The 515-mile official route includes winding lanes, spectacular beaches, and remote rural communities. A trip to the Isle of Skye is highly recommended, to see the famous Storr rocks.

Route 8. South West Coastal 300

This 299-mile loop starts in Dumfries and features spectacular sea views, medieval castles and plenty of activities to try, from angling to horse riding. The driving is spectacular, including coastal curves and wide-angle stretches. The route can easily be reached via the M74 and M77 motorways and takes in Mull of Galloway, the most southerly point in Scotland, as well as passing through Wanlockhead in the Lowther Hills.

Images:

1.. Kendal to Keswisk (Lexus.co.uk) 2. Cheddar Gorge (Visit Britain/Stephen Spraggon) 3. Ribblehead Viaduct (Visit Britain/Colin Barker) 4. Snow Roads Scenic Route (Visit Scotland) 5. Atlantic Way, Cornwall (Visit Britain/Adam Burton) 6. Pembrokeshire Coast (Visit Wales) 7. North Coast 500 (Visit Scotland) 8. South Coast 300 at Mennock (Visit Scotland)

Idyllic Greek Island Autumn Adventure

Lisa Curtiss enjoys the delights of a wonderful long luxury weekend escape to the beautiful islands of Mykonos and Paros, staying in two incredible villas.

absolutely trust any villa I book with them would be first class. The only challenge is which from their expansive collection to choose?

Ocean views for days, cicada song, hummingbird moths’ lavender dancing and the heady evening scent of sun-baked native herbs – balm to sooth any work-weary soul. Remembering blissful times relaxing with a glass or two of excellent Greek wine on the terrace of my old-stone but allluxury villa perched high on a headland in Mykonos, watching the sun rise and set in a daily blaze of amber glory.

Villa Lopez, from The Greek Villas collection, is everything you’d wish for – luxurious, perfectly positioned away from the Mykonos tourist and party-going crowds, yet still within reach of the many excellent beaches, quite coves and best restaurants. More of an estate – it actually has one large central house, with several satellite villas each offering privacy yet proximity – perfect for extended family stays or special celebration beak with friends.

The main villa is stunning – boasts its own cinema, gym and basketball court, plus a stunning outdoor dining, relaxing and pool area with spectacular views across the headland to the sparkling teal-blue sea beyond. The main guest villa is super stylish, spacious and has its own lovely private terrace. All villas are perched on the gentle slopes of a hillside with uninterrupted sea views.

We enjoyed wonderful dining experiences thanks to a private chef coming in to the villa to create delicious breakfasts and memorably special authentic Greek island dinners – using the freshest local produce paired with fantastic wines.

During our days there, we took a fantastic boat trip out to explore the nearby islands of Delos and Rhenia, walking amongst incredible ancient ruins and cooling down with dips from our boat into the sea in a turquoise and crystal clear sheltered cove. With an amazing picnic lunch of course! We also enjoyed excellent lunches and dinners at a couple of the best seafood restaurants back on Mykonos.

Reluctant to leave Mykonos but excited for the next part of our journey, we took the ferry to the quieter island of Paros. Here we stayed at another wonderful The Greek Villas’ property – Villa Sienna – a white-washed very pretty property nestled in olive groves above a small cove.

With a dining terrace to die for, and infinity pool with views out across the small valley to the sea beyond, it’s such an enchanting place to stay. There are numerous bedrooms making it ideal for a group of friends or family breaks. Again we were treated to private chefs to create incredible meals and had fun learning how to cook some Greek favourites ourselves too.

Lazy, days spent exploring, swimming, and relaxing by the pool were the perfect antidote to hectic city life. Can’t wait to stay in another villa or three from The Greek Villas collection as having experienced first-hand how fantastic their properties and hosts out there are, and how professional the company is, I know I can Being a Gerald Durrell fan since a child, Corfu is beckoning… so maybe the spectacularly-positioned Villa Adriana with its huge infinity pool, or Villa Donatella nestled amongst lush greenery just metres away from a pretty cove…. Decisions.. decisions.. Visit www.thegreekvillas.com

A beautiful state of mind

Perched on a sheltered corner of northern Italy’s Lake Como, Villa d’Este has been enticing the rich and famous for nearly 150-years of leisure. KCR’s Andrew Coles is fortunate to check in, and discovers more than a mere hotel.

As the heavy cast bronze key is handed across the desk with a warm smile, I take pause to consider who else has been fortunate enough to check in at Villa d’ Este over the last 149 years. Among their numbers are royalty, movie stars, musicians, celebrities, titans of politics, captains of industry, and now, a humble writer from London.

The most famous villa in the world sits on the south-eastern shore of Lake Como, at Cernobbio, and has been the holiday destination of the paparazzied glitterati since long before the jet set was a thing. They came in the 19th century for the same reasons that they do today – unparalleled luxury, the finest dining and drinking, the warm northern Italian weather, and complete privacy and seclusion offered by the 26 hectares of private gardens.

But Villa d’ Este is somehow more than that, and has attained a place in the global cultural zeitgeist that transcends its function as a mere play place for the blessed. Similar to how the Mona Lisa is more than just a painting, and the Beatles are bigger than any single band, Villa d’ Este has come to represent everything that’s right about style and grace. In the minds of millions of people around the world, just the idea that something so perfect exists inspires, and the dream of sipping a summertime Bellini on its mosaiced terrace is proof that there remains a shred of civilisation in this world.

The most irreplicable element is its history, which is linked to the foundation of Italy itself and permeates every corner of its being. Next year sees the 150th anniversary of the Villa d’Este as a hotel, but the villa itself was constructed by famous architect Pellegrino Pellegrini for the wealthy merchant-cum-Cardinal of Como (a title awarded by Pope Pius IV himself) in 1568. Over the centuries it changed hands several times, was a hotbed of dissent and Italian nationalism during Austrian rule, and one owner was even Caroline of Brunswick, Princess of Wales, and Queen of England for a short time. The Princess was famous for her outlandish parties and the indulgent company she kept here, much to the chagrin of King George IV, and she is responsible for many of the gardens and interiors we see today.

A decade after her death, an 1872 bid by a consortium of Milanese industrialists to transform the villa into a five-star resort to secure its future continues today, and Villa d’ Este remains one of few grand hotels still in family ownership. To stay here is to feel as if you are a visiting guest of one of those industrialists, and there is a sincerity and integrity that the gin palaces of the Middle East can only dream of. You

are transported into the noble world of Caroline of Brunswick, going about your hedonistic leisure immersed in this epic collection of art and statuary, making your way to the bar amid antique furniture and frescoed ceilings and traversing marble staircases.

Our suite is on the third-floor corner, one window with a commanding vista across the lake and floating pontoon pool (the first on Lake Como), and the other over the gardens, with a prime view of the 16th century mosaic nymphaeum and up to the cypress flight of steps and the Hercules Fountain beyond. Our bathroom is marble and its toiletries are bespoke. The house champagne is Ruinart and the minibar is amply stocked with it. We sip and gaze to the original portrait of a woman of nobility hanging in our room, musing over who she was, and who painted her. She looks oddly familiar.

As the afternoon sun strikes the shore opposite us, we ready ourselves for dinner (an almost-forgotten ritual we relish after lockdown), and take aperitives under the horse chestnut trees at the terrace bar, with live piano in the background as iconic wooden Riva runabouts dock to our side.

Dinner in the fine-dining La Veranda restaurant is a jacket and tie treat, as swarms of camerieri, sommeliers, and an all-knowing maître d’ supervise the distribution of head chef Michele Zambanini’s gastronomic creations. The wine list alone runs to 34-pages, and the menu is comprised of international and local Italian fare, with six different choices for each of the five courses, plus desert. The ratio of staff to guests nears fifty-fifty, and watching them go about their duties is akin to enjoying a performance art. No detail is overlooked, no request is too much trouble. The depth of knowledge held by the servers and somms is impressive, and they are able to articulately communicate specifics relating to terroir in a way that leaves you feeling as if you’ve learnt something about the region.

We dine in the main restaurant, which with its large plate-glass windows framing the gardens and lake views is an easy choice, but I’d heard about the private Napoleon Room and had to take a look. Decorated with deep blues and blondes through its carpets and tapestries, with rich gilded highlights and marble statuary, the intimate space was commissioned in the 18th century by former La Scala ballerina Vittoria Peluso for an anticipated visit by Napoleon Bonaparte. The Emperor was side-tracked by war and never reached the villa, but today the room is available for private functions, so long as guests don’t suffer the same fate. The hotel also offers another two dining options – the outdoor Sundeck is the place for a lakeside club sandwich and accompanying Aperol, and The Grill is a favourite of George Clooney.

Managing Director Danilo Zucchetti, a 16-year veteran of his role, perhaps summarises best when he says that the ‘Villa d’ Este is a state of mind.’ Perhaps you’ll find your solace in activity (there are indoor and outdoor pools, eight tennis courts, a large gym and mountainous hiking trails through the gardens), maybe you’ll find it dining, reading a novel in your suite, or perhaps in just escaping the world to somewhere so beautiful. For nearly 150-years this villa has inspired, and long will it continue to do so.

5 Eco-Conscious Resorts with Marine Conservation Programmes

From educational marine research initiatives to exciting diving experiences, each of the following properties have created a range of unique hands on activities inviting guests to learn about the importance of the ocean during their visits to some of the world’s most beautiful far-flung island destinations.

1.Turtle tagging and monitoring at and Beyond Mnemba Island. Zanzibar, Tanzania.

Situated on an exclusive island off the northeastern coast of Zanzibar, the private paradise with just 12 luxury beach bandas, boasts some of Africa’s most magnificent coral reefs. Home to one of only two protected nesting sites in Zanzibar for the endangered green sea turtle, the property launched a turtle tagging and monitoring programme in collaboration with its Oceans Without Borders marine conservation initiative. During their stay, guests can join daily turtle conservation patrols along the beach to monitor and record activity, and also help escort hatchlings to the sea.

2.Humpback whale conservation at Islas Secas. Panama. 4.Local community support at Miavana by Time + Tide. Nosy Ankao Island, Madagascar.

Ringed by flourishing coral reefs, the tropical island escape is home to 14 luxurious beachfront villas and is committed to sustaining and protecting the surrounding land and sea ecosystems. In keeping with the company ethos of giving back to people and the planet, the Time + Tide Foundation works with the local community to support education opportunities for girls and women, while also providing additional initiatives for economic empowerment. Environmental preservation is also a key component of the foundation’s efforts, including hands on wildlife conservation such as monitoring of nesting sea turtles, marine and terrestrial biodiversity surveys, and active support for the Crowned Lemur Conservation programme.

Visit www.staybeyondgreen.com

Located in the Gulf of Chiriquí off the coast of Panama, the private owned 14-island archipelago is a remote eco-paradise with sustainable tourism and marine preservation at its core. The surrounding waters are teeming with marine life, and the retreat features both a learning and dive centre, encouraging guests to participate in research and conservation efforts including observing the migrating humpback whales. The resort is powered entirely by solar energy, purifies and reuses all its wastewater for irrigation, recycles 100% of its food waste, and supports conservation and community projects both locally and nationally.

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3.Eco diving experience at Turtle Inn. Placencia, Belize

Nestled between the jungle and the longest coral reef in the Western hemisphere, the oceanfront retreat is one of two Family Coppola Hideaways in the Caribbean and home to 25 thatched beach huts on Belize’s southern coast. To help handle the growing environmental issue of the non-native lionfish population destroying the barrier reef, the resort offers guests a unique diving experience to catch and cook the fish using traditional eco methods. The hotel’s on-site green team also organise regular staff education sessions, beach clean-up campaigns, and help fund local marine conservation.

4.Coral reef regeneration program at Intercontinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa. Bora Bora, French Polynesia.

Set on an idyllic white sand beach overlooking the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean in Bora Bora, the floating resort features 84 overwater villas and is home to a protected natural marine lagoon that serves as a research project for coral reef regeneration. Marine biologists visit weekly to research and maintain the lagoon and coral nursery, and guests are invited to join regular visits to learn more about the local sea life conservation that is implemented.

5.

Berlin Rising

By Sarah Rodrigues. The easing of Covid restrictions in the German capital sees the return of the biennial Grand Show - and the message behind its sequinned, feathered magnificence is more timely than ever.

After the ‘unprecedented’ events of the past 18 months, there will be few among us who have not ruminated on the need to grasp opportunities; to make the most of the time that we have; to see friends; hug family; smile at strangers; take chances, and live life to the fullest. We missed retail therapy, dining out, seeing bands, watching theatre, browsing galleries - and while many sectors made valiant attempts to ‘pivot’ to online offerings, there was no denying that it just wasn’t the same.

In Berlin, a city hosting one of the highest per-capita rates of theatres and performance spaces in Europe, the loss was felt keenly: not only financially (the city’s Gorky Theatre, for instance, saw its box office takings plummet from €1.7 million to €500,000 between 2019 and 2020) but also by theatre goers craving the occasion and enrichment offered by a night of live escapism. For proof, one only needs to consider the fact that when tickets for a show at Berliner Ensemble went on sale in March, after five months of lowered curtains, they sold out in a mere four minutes.

That the country has a fondness for theatrical extravagance - for the over-the-top flamboyance that one might more readily associate with a Vegas than with a country whose relatively recent political history has been so brutal and divisive - is evidenced by the enduring popularity of roller-fest Starlight Express, which has been running in a purpose built ‘ Starlighthalle’ in Bochum for more than thirty years. (itself home to the world’s largest theatre stage) is so eagerly anticipated, even before pandemic conditions darkened stage lights and lowered curtains - and the return of the show, in its current incarnation of ‘ARISE’, is every bit as dazzling as you’d expect; perhaps the more so with the foil of 17 months of closure against against which to contrast it.

Revival is nothing new to the Palast. First opened as the Großes Schauspielhaus in 1919, it staged revues that characterised Berlin’s Golden Twenties, and was, after a four year closure due to structural issues, reopened in 1984: the German Democratic Republic’s final large-scale construction project. With audiences dwindling, the theatre had experienced a €4 million loss in 2007, when current general director, Dr Berndt Schmidt, was appointed to the role that he has now held for nearly fourteen years: it is the way in which he has fused traditional revue-style elements with eye-popping spectacle that’s largely credited with the Palast’s reversal of fortune - a reversal to a box office tune of €25.3 million in 2017-2018.

Significant investment has been required to stage these visual sensations: from 2008’s ‘Qi’, which cost €4.5 million to develop, the cost of ‘ARISE’ is in the region of €11 million. In order to comply with social distancing guidelines, the theatre is currently operating at just two-thirds of its 1895-seat capacity - and with tickets deliberately priced to be accessible to all (they start at €24.90, going up to €269.90 for Sky Lounge access) it’s apparent that love, not profit, is at the heart of the Palast vision, a fact of which Schmidt is demonstrably proud.

Indeed, as the tagline “Love is Stronger Than Time” makes apparent, it’s love that forms the crux of this new production, even if Time is embodied in an actual character, played by Olivier Erie St. Louis, alongside around 100 other performers

from 26 nations. The story follows photographer Cameron, as he loses his creative spark and goes in search of his muse: it has been, says St. Louis, thought-provoking to play an entity that “so many people see as the enemy. They see time as something that slips away from them, that denies them the opportunity to act upon their intentions - yet it is up to us to make use of our time; to see it as our friend rather than foe.” ARISE is, adds Schmidt, the most emotionally stirring Grand Show yet, set to leave post-pandemic audiences with a sense of despair, struggle and, ultimately, hope.

That said, the story, such as it is, is very much secondary to the spectacle - something that stems, in part, from a desire to attract international audiences. Unlike shows that tour the world, or that have concurrent runs in multiple destinations, the Grand Show may only be seen in Berlin, so it’s the visual elements, rather than language, that convey meaning. Or not, as the case may be: at times during the performance, I found my mind joyfully blank, lost in whirl of movement, colour and energy; of scissor-sharp kicklines; of heart-in-mouth acrobatics; of achingly beautiful aerial dance, and of a splendid joie-de-vivre which, oh yes, that’s right, was something to do with a photographer.

The approach seems slowly to be having an impact: from just 3 percent of audience members being non-German in 2007, the last Grand Show, VIVID, which launched in 2018, saw these figures swell to around 20 percent. As travel opens up and people act upon that post-pandemic, carpe diem feeling, taking advantage of short-haul destinations for weekend trips and potentially viewing Berlin as a theatre-break destination, it’s hoped that these numbers will rise even further.

As well as being suitable for audiences of all backgrounds, ARISE is allegedly intended to be suitable for those aged eight and upwards; Schmidt tells us that school groups are frequent attendees at performances. Thanks to some highly sexual language and simulation, it’s hard to fathom those of such tender years in attendance but, according to Schmidt, “the revue genre is supposed to be sexy; whether this is considered appropriate for children will depend on cultural background and context.” In Germany, it seems, such prudish reticence is negligible.

This open approach extends far beyond what people may deem family friendly, however - in ARISE, as with all of the Grand Shows produced under Schmidt, there is a theme of acceptance, tolerance and respect. This is made all the more extraordinary by the fact that the Palast is entirely state-owned - yet it is partly the fact of state-funding (over €10 million is contributed annually by the State of Berlin) that keeps ticket prices democratically low. Even so, such shamelessly joyful embracing of outward difference and inherent sameness has undoubtedly rattled a few right-leaning cages, with a number of bomb threats, one requiring evacuation, made in recent years.

Ultimately, says Schmidt, Berlin has an inescapably troubled past that must be recognised; indeed, the Palast’s original founders suffered under Nazism and on the theatre’s 200-year anniversary in 2019, a flag bearing the Star of David and the words “Jewish Roots since 1919” was raised outside it. This is, he says, the city’s legacy - and one that demonstrates just how precious freedoms, of all kinds, are. Yes, ‘love is stronger than time’ - and even if time cannot erase this past then perhaps love, eventually, can.

Tickets for ARISE may be booked at palast.berlin Stay at the nearby Motel One Berlin-Hauptbahnhof from £79 per night. Image credits: Left: Ralph Larmann. Right: Nady el Tounsey

Private Island Perfection

By Lisa Curtiss. Just a speedboat ride from the bustle of the international airport, yet way out into the peaceful blue, Naladhu, Maldives is renowned for its exclusivity, privacy and being the quintessential luxury Maldivian escape.

Frequented by royalty, the rich and the ultra-wealthy, this simply gorgeous island is home to 20 large, spacious and luxuriously appointed villas – some with wonderful ocean views, others nestled in their own private gardens with direct access to beautiful beaches. All have their own butler at your service 24 hours a day.

Each villa has its own pool – large and deep enough to actually swim in, unlike most of those you find in other Maldives’ resorts. What’s also special is their position – conveniently directly adjoining the villas’ huge open bathrooms, with features like glass sided sunken baths the attentive staff will fill and decorate with tropical flowers for you, The pools in the Ocean Villas have amazing views across the large deck areas to the turquoise sea beyond – perfect for a dawn dip with the sun rising on the horizon and the sky alight with molten amber and gold.

The villas offer complete privacy too and are perfect havens to unwind, relax and feel restored. Their design is incredibly practical as well as decorative. Inside, in addition to the fantastic bathrooms, each has a dressing area, hallway with wine fridge, Nespresso machine and so on, leading to a large, high ceilinged bedroom opening out to a very large deck, with gazebo eating area and spacious roofed section with double-bed swing where you can relax in the shade during the heat of the day. The pool can be accessed from the deck too. Having large outdoor covered areas is such a benefit in the Maldives. Many resorts’ villas just don’t have enough, and means there’s no respite from searing sun or occasional tropical downpours unless you stay inside. If you can pull yourself away from your villa, Naladhu has a lovely main pool area, gym and excellent restaurant ‘The Living Room’ with beach and lagoon views, and half way around the island are gorgeous powder-soft white sand beaches. The island’s interior is very pretty too – sandy paths take you through frangipani and jasmine scented gardens full of all kinds of tropical flowers.

Although a private island, there is a gated walkway which takes you over lagoon to the neighbouring Anatara Veli resort popular with honeymooners. Only Naladhu guests can return through the gate to their resort though. This walkway is a great place to watch the stars at night, and rainbow coloured parrot and other reef fish swim by during the day.

Dining wise, half way across the walkway is a fantastic Thai restaurant. Here you can sit in the moonlight and watch fish, and listen to the sounds of the reef. The dishes are delicious and generous and there’s a great choice. You can also head on to Veli and Anantara Dighu too, and enjoy their culinary , entertainment, sports, excursions and spa offerings also, and of course experience romantic destination dining, or enjoy delicious cuisine in the privacy and comfort of your own villa.

This most gorgeous place is such a Maldivian treasure and firm, firm favourite of ours. Do consider combining it with a stay at sister-resort Anantara Kihavah too. This stunning luxury resort is located in the Baa Atoll, a sea plane ride away from the international airport. The villas there are based on the same design as those in Naladhu, and they have over water ones also.

It is possible for you to book Naladhu for your exclusive use – to mark those extra special occasions, where you want to enjoy very best in luxury and privacy with family, friends or colleagues. www.anantara.com/en/naladhu-maldives/.