The Parlour
The Italian Greyhound
Sara Moran
Tracy Borman
The Parlour is exquisite – the perfect setting for an extravagant yet delicate afternoon tea. The Great Scotland Yard Hotel itself is scattered with reminders that you are at what was once the great whodunnit focus of many an intriguing novel and the centre of the Metropolitan Police from 1829 until 2016. The building has now been adopted as part of the Unbound Collection by Hyatt, which are all one-of-a-kind hotels with stories at the heart of them. Fortunately, no detective work is required to enjoy a magnificent afternoon tea at the Parlour – an experience steeped in history, with subtle flavours and delightful pastry work. For this particular tea, the hotel has teamed up with Floris, the oldest English retailer of fragrances and perfumery to the Queen. Floris – established in 1730 – has been making London smell fragrant for longer than the Metropolitan police have existed. The Parlour is an eccentric yet elegant space in the hotel, with chess-board flooring, wallpaper depicting exotic sepia-toned scenes and a unique, recessed grandfather clock. A fitting space for this seasonal tea, which reflects specifically chosen scents and brings to life the multi-sensory experience. The chosen fragrance for this season’s afternoon tea menu is inspired by Bouquet de la Reine, the perfume created for Queen Victoria’s wedding. It all starts with some fizz, Ruinart champagne, to be specific, a delicious way to start any venture that taps into all the senses and much better than starting with tea which would have been a scandal worthy of investigation. The choice of teas ranges from green to herbal to the more traditional Earl Grey and English breakfast options. I’d thoroughly recommend the green tea, a light fragrant brew. The highlight, for me personally, was the exquisite cakes that pastry chef Verónica Garrido Martínez has created. Verónica is a creative with a sweet-tooth clearly, further evidenced by the flavours that have been incorporated into the delightful treats that keep arriving at the table. These morsels include rose-and-pistachio drizzle cake and delicate violet-leaf madeleines alongside the more traditional fare of scones paired with strawberry-and-elderflower jam and lashings of cream. Verónica’s only crime is the fact that she’s added to my ever expanding waistline and for that she must be banished to the kitchen. www.hyattrestaurants.com/en/dining/uk/london/british-restaurant-in-westminster-the-parlour
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
The Italian Greyhound is a popular breed, known to be graceful, sleek and elegant – so it’s the perfect name for this new Marylebone bar and dining room. Although it’s just a stone’s throw from the western end of Oxford Street, it could be a million miles away, thanks to the peace and tranquillity it offers. First impressions are appealing. The décor is stylish and understated, the music mellow and relaxed, and the staff friendly and welcoming. We ate early and had our pick of the tables, but by the time we left there were few to be had. Clearly, word has got around during the three months since this hidden gem opened. The menus offer fresh, seasonal dishes that claim to be a celebration of Italian dining and drinking: an homage to the neighbourhood bars or ‘bacaros’ of Italy. The menu is cleverly designed to cater for both bar snackers and full diners, with small plates and ‘pizzette,’ through to more substantial pasta, meat and fish dishes. While trying to decide, we munched our way through a portion of chickpea chips – melt-in-the-mouth saltiness with a hint of sage. These, we washed down with two elegantly presented cocktails: an ‘Amante’ (brandy, Stellacello, orange, walnut and grapefruit) and Watermelon & Basil Collins (gin, watermelon, basil and lime). After much agonising (I seriously contemplated asking for a little of everything), we plumped for a creamy burrata with tomato and pesto, and smoked yellowfin tuna with coco blanc to start, followed by chalk stream trout with baby beets and dry-aged ribeye with fresh borlotti beans. The accompanying salad was perfectly dressed and seasoned, and the focaccia was soft, salty perfection. Somehow, we found room for dessert (given the options available, it would have been rude not to). The fig and almond tart was encased in the most buttery, crumbly pastry ever created, while the pistachio tiramisu was a heavenly, silky twist on the classic. The wine list comprises the best regional varieties that Italy can offer. We went for Grillo ‘Il Folle’ – a Sicilian white grape that was light, crisp and perfectly chilled. The list is handily organised by type as well as region, so whether you’re looking for ‘earthy’, ‘aromatic’ or ‘full bodied’, there is something for every palate. There is also an impressive selection of beers, spirits and cocktails. Although this was a grown-up evening, there is a ‘bambini’ menu and food is served all day. Ultimately, there is much to admire in this new addition to W1: I would encourage any self-respecting diner to make like a greyhound and speed their way there. www.theitaliangreyhound.co.uk
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