The Magazine for Food Professionals
September 2012, Vol. 22 No. 166 $5.00
The largest event in history
to promote Japanese sake held
in the U.S. Midwest
米国中西部で過去最大の日本酒普及イベントを実施
Japan Food Manufacturers Association “Hichimikai”
Summer Seminar & Post Event Mixer
南加日系食品メーカー団体｛七味会｝夏のセミナー＆懇親会 YUZU “Sushi is the best fast-food in the world not available at home” atu A ll N
YUZU
PEP
r al
UCE PER SA
MIYAKO ORIENTAL FOODS INC. customerservice@coldmountainmiso.com Tel. 626-962 9633
寿司は家庭で味わえない 世界最高のファーストフード
Los Angeles, CA Permit No. 32641
PRSRT STD U.S. Postage PAID
September 2012 Vol. 22, No. 166
CONTENTS
SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB
6
8
10
Enjoy food with Japanese sake
料理に日本酒を
Sake Nation 59 Request for aid to support the Tohoku disaster areas via YouTube: Part 3”
酒豪大陸 59 ユーチューブで東北の支援のお願い その3
Kenzo Estate, Napa’s New Jem ナパの新星、ケンゾー・エステート
NEWS / TRENDS 9
12
14
4
Japanese Restaurant News
The largest event in history to promote Japanese sake held in the U.S. Midwest
米国中西部で過去最大の日本酒普及イベントを実施
Japan Food Manufacturers Association "Hichimikai" Summer Seminar & Post Event Mixer
南加日系食品メーカー団体｛七味会｝夏のセミナー＆懇親会
Discover Shochu Episode 16: Creating Menu That Work 焼酎特集 第１６話 メニュー作りのヒント
All Japan News, Inc.
16
Mutual Trading Reps Visit Takara Sierra Nevadas Provide Ideal Fushimi-Like Environment 共同貿易 米国宝酒造見学レポート 京都伏見と変わらぬ理想的な水をシエラネバタ山脈から
222 S. Hewitt St. Suite 10 Los Angeles, CA 90012 Tel: (213) 680-0011 Fax: (213) 680-0020 E-mail: AllJapanNews@gmail.com ©2012 All Japan News Inc. All rights reserved.
Publisher
All Japan News Inc Managing Editor
CULINARY PROFESSIONALS 18
Sushi is the best fast-food in the world not available at home “YUZU”
「寿司は家庭で味わえない世界最高のファーストフード」
22
"Sushi Taro" widely recognized as a top class restaurant in D.C. -Following their major transition from a casual izakaya to an authentic kaiseki restaurant.誰もが認めるD.C. トップクラスの店『寿し Taro』
-カジュアルな居酒屋から正統派会席へ大変革の軌跡-
JAPANESE FOOD HISTORY 26
Chapter 73 Again, a new beginning from here forward
第73章 再び、ここから始まる
David Kudo
Editor-in-Chief
Hiroshi Kawabata Editor
Keiko Azuma Erika Jones Designer
Ritsuko Lynch Contributing Writers
Atsushi Ashizawa Kanako Chitose Noritoshi Kanai Kosuke Kuji Yuji Matsumoto Aya Ota Elli Sekine Izumi Sunaoka Akiko Tagawa Minako Takizawa Special Thanks to
JBA / JETRO / JRA
September 2012 • Vol. 22 • No.166
5
SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB
Noritoshi Kanai
Hiroyuki Enomoto
Honorary Sake Sommelier Honorary Sake Sommelier Chairman, President, Mutual Trading Company Inc. JFC International
Rick Smith & Hiroko Furukawa Honorary Sake Sommelier. Owner “SAKAYA NYC”
Kosuke Kuji
Yuji Matsumoto
Toshio Ueno
Joe Mizuno
Beau Timken
Nanbu Bijin Inc. Fifth Generation Brewery Owner
Master Sake Sommelier Kabuki Restaurant, Beverage Manager
Master Sake Sommelier Vice President, Sake School of America
Head of the “Regional Sake Tasting Club”
Sake Sommelier Owner “True Sake”
Yoshihiro Sako
Koji Aoto
Keita Akaboshi
Toshiyuki Koizumi
Yoshihide Murakami
Manager & Sommelier, Sake Bar “Kirakuya”
Sake Sommelier, Owner “WASAN”
Manager, Smart Assist LLC
Michael John Simkin
Koji Wong
Philip Harper
MJS Sake Selection Owner
Owner Japon Bistro
Tamagawa Hand Made Japanese Sake Master Sake Brewer
Sake Specialist Sake Sommelier, Sake & Owner of M&M Enterprise Wine shop “Corkage”
Rachel Macalisang Chizuko Niikawa-Helton Sake and Wine Sommelier
SAKE SOMMELIER
酒ソムリエ
Kats Miyazato
Sake Sommelier
Sake Sommelier, Savannah Distributing Co.Inc.
Kurtis Wells
Stuart Morris
Mixologist
Sake Sommelier Hana Japanese Restaurant
Yuji Matsumoto Master Sake Sommelier Finalist of the 2nd World Sake Sommelier Competition. Graduated from Keio University Faculty of Law, Department of Political Science. Worked for Nomura Securities for 10 years. Former president of California Sushi Academy Former chief of planning dept. at Mutual Trading. Currently working for Kabuki Restaurant Corp. as a Beverage Manager of Sake.
by Yuji Matsumoto
Enjoy food with Japanese sake
料理に日本酒を
R
ecently, I’m often asked from Americans, “Wine is often used for cooking, can you also use Japanese sake?” Japanese sake is great for cooking, because it contains many umami components for use in various ways.”
Eliminating Odor Sake is useful to eliminate odor from pork, lamb, etc., although this odor may be characteristic for lamb. To flavor food while preparing Japanese cuisine, sprinkle sake over food when the odor is too strong and leave for two minutes to eliminate the odor.
Softens Proteins Placing chicken breast, red beef, and meat for stew into a Ziploc bag with sake the day before use is effective in removing the dryness and making the meat delicious. Sake enhances great flavor to BBQ and yakiniku meat.
6
Japanese Restaurant News
Adds umami flavors The fact that sake is useful for cooking food in soy sauce to various soup dishes are known to many. Surprisingly, sake is also great for preparing western soup dishes, especially when using seafood. Adding sake further enhances flavors. Of course, sake is great for adding flavor to pasta and other dishes, so please give it a try.
Sake is great for cooking! Cooking sake and Junmai sake is great for cooking! Ginjo, Daiginjo is great for enjoyment, but as for suitability for cooking, Junmai is better because of its high content of umami flavors. Furthermore, the prices are high, so it’s a waste to use such expensive sake for cooking.
最「ワインは料理に使うけど日本酒も使え
近、よくアメリカ人から聞かれるのが、
るのか？」ということだ。日本酒には、ワイ ンにない旨み成分がたくさんあるので何でも 使用できるのがうれしい。
臭い消し 豚、ラムなどの匂いを消す効果がある。こ の匂いがあるからこそラム肉かもしれないが、 和風な味つけにするときには、ちょっと匂い が強すぎる時に日本酒をかけ、約 2 分くらい 放置すると臭みも消える。もちろん、魚介類 にも効果がある。
タンパク質柔軟効果 鶏の胸肉や牛の赤身、シチュー用の肉を調 理前日に日本酒を入れたジップロックバック に入れておくとパサパサ感がとれ美味しくな る。バーベキューや焼肉がもっと美味しくな るのだ。
旨味追加 煮付けからどんな汁物まで日本酒は使え るのは皆さんも周知の事実。意外にも洋食の スープ、特にシーフードの入れるもの日本酒を 入れるとさらに美味しくなる。もちろんパス タやその他の料理にも使えるので試していた だきたい。 実はインスタントラーメンに少し入れても美 味しい。
料理に向く日本酒 料理酒や純米酒がよい。吟醸、大吟醸酒 は飲むのには良いが、料理としての効能は旨 みが多い純米酒がベターである。まして、値 段が高いので料理に使うにはもったいない。
オーガニック Using only the premium Californian rice, Hakutsuru Organic Junmai Sake is carefully brewed with sophisticated skills and techniques. Ingredients, brewing process, aging process, and bottling process are all USDA certified organic. Sharp and exhilarating. Dry and light-bodied. Enjoy this Sake in a wide range from cold to warm/hot, and sweet/dry changes can be enjoyed depending on the temperature.
ALC.14.5% BY VOL. INGREDIENTS:ORGANIC RICE, RICE KOJI SAKE METER VALUE : ＋5
720ML
300ML
SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB
Kosuke Kuji
SAKE NATION
酒豪大陸
59
by Kosuke Kuji
Request for aid to the Tohoku region through YouTube: Part 3
Fifth Generation Brewery Owner / Nanbu Bijin, Inc. Born May 11, 1972. Entered Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. In 2005 became the youngest person ever to receive the Iwate Prefecture Young Distinguished Technician Award. In 2006 was selected to be a member of the board of trustees of his local alma mater, Fukuoka High School. Currently is featured in a number of media outlets including magazines, radio, and television. *Positions of Public Service: Chairperson, Cassiopeia Corporation Youth Conference; School Board Member, Fukuoka High School, Iwate Prefecture, Vice-Chairman, Technology Committee, Iwate Prefecture Brewers and Distillers’ Association
ユーチューブで東北の支援のお願い その 3
T
hree sake breweries in Iwate prefecture sent out a message via Youtube: “Eat and drink to support the disasterstricken Tohoku region.” Immediately, fellow local breweries in the Tohoku region called and offered, “We’d like to participate as well.” Participation from local breweries led to our “message from all sake breweries in the disasterafflicted Tohoku region.” With the goal to continue this activity long-term, we named the group “HANASAKE Nippon Association,” which started this activity since spring 2011 when the cherry blossoms bloomed and continues to gain momentum today. The Youtube message that initially represented three breweries from Iwate Prefecture now also transmits messages from other Tohoku breweries. Also, sake breweries who can’t send out videos fax us handwritten messages instead for us to upload. Also, the comic duo “Sandwich man,” from the Tohoku region and
supported the local Miyagi prefecture at the time of the Great East Japan Earthquake, and Japanese singer-songwriter Shigeru Izumiya also sent us the message, “Please enjoy local Tohoku specialties to support disaster-afflicted areas,” which came not only from sake breweries, but also from the Japanese entertainment industry, which adds momentum to the activities of us “HANASAKE Nippon” underway. A month after the Great East Japan Earthquake, customers stopped frequenting restaurants in the Ginza district, while other restaurants in the capital region were forced to continue business without knowing when their electricity will go out next, and other restaurants in Kansai had no customers because the customers were voluntarily refraining from indulging at restaurants following the disaster. In the restaurant industry, some restaurants leaped at the opportunity to incorporate food ingredients from the Tohoku region into their
2006
2006
8
2010
Japanese Restaurant News
2010
menus, while other restaurants increased sake selections from the Tohoku region, and others joined in our effort. Tohoku Fairs were held at one department store and restaurant after another, a moment when the tide changed.
「食をユーチューブで岩手の 3 蔵で発信
べて、飲んで、被災地東北の支援」
をさせていただきました。すぐに、同業者の 東北の蔵元から連絡があり、 「ぜひ私たちも 活動に参加させてほしい」という申し出があ り、岩手の 3 蔵から発信したメッセージは、 そういった東北の蔵元が参加することで、 「被 災地東北全体の酒蔵からのメッセージ」に変 わりました。 そして、この活動を、これからも末 永く 行っていくことを目的に、2011 年の春に咲 いた桜の花から始まり、復興の花が咲き乱 れるまで、この活動を行っているグループを 「HANASAKE ニッポンの会」と名付け、活 動を本格化していきました。 http://hana-sake.jp 岩手の 3 蔵のメッセージだけだったユー チューブのメッセージを、ほかの東北の蔵元
のメッセージも随時掲載をしていきました。 さらに、映像を出すことが難しい蔵元は、手 書きの FAX を送っていただき、それを掲載 しました。 さらに、東北出身で、東日本大震災の時に は地元宮城で被災した、お笑いコンビの「サ ンドウィッチマン」さんや、泉谷しげるさんか らも、同じく「東北の物産品を食べて飲んで 支援してほしい」というメッセージをいただ き、酒蔵だけではなく、芸能界も巻き込んで、 HANASAKE ニッポンの活動は活発化してい きました。 東日本大震災が起こり、そこから一か月近 く、お客さんが全く来なくなった銀座のレスト ランや、計画停電でいつ電気が消えるかわか らない状態で営業を続けなければいけなかっ た首都圏のレストラン、そして自粛ムードで全 くお客さんが来なくなった関西のレストランな ど、飲食業界では、いち早くメニューに東北 の食材を使ったり、お酒の品ぞろえを東北の ものを増やしてくれたり、私たちの活動に連 動してすぐに動いてくれました。 東北フェアもデパートやレストランでどんど ん開催されました。風が確実に変わった瞬間 でした。
NEWS/TREND
The largest event in history to promote Japanese sake held in the U.S. Midwest 米国中西部で過去最大の日本酒普及イベントを実施
T
he Consulate General of Japan in Chicago and JETRO Chicago jointly held an event to promote the exportation of Japanese sake, targeting food service professionals in downtown Chicago on June 21. Twenty-five traders including some from breweries in the earthquake disaster areas promoted their boasted Japanese sake to 120 food professionals from restaurants and the wholesale industry.
Various Japanese sake promoted to food professionals This event to promote the exportation of Japanese sake is held annually since 2009 by The Consulate General of Japan in Chicago and JETRO Chicago, timed to the visits of Sake Export Association’s missions to Chicago. This fourth mission was held this year at Kendall College. At the event, 11 sake breweries including some from earthquake afflicted regions such as Iwate and Fukushima prefectures attended, along with 14 U.S. import and
在ゴ 事務所は 6 月 21 日、シカゴダウン
シカゴ日本国総領事館 とジェトロシカ
タウンにおいて、食のプロ向けの日本酒輸出 促進イベントを開催した。被災地の酒蔵を含 む 25 の業者が、レストラン・小売関係者と いった食のプロ 120 名に、自慢の日本酒を PR した。
食のプロに多様な日本酒をアピール 今回の日本酒輸出促進イベントは、在シカ ゴ日本国総領事館とジェトロが 2009 年以 降毎年春に実施しているもので、日本酒輸出 協会によるミッションがシカゴを訪問するタ イミングに合わせて開催されている。 4 回目となる今回は、シカゴの有名料理学 校・ケンドール大学で開催された。イベント では、被災地岩手、福島からの酒蔵を含む 11 の酒蔵、米国の輸入業者・卸売業者 14 社の合計 25 社が 85 種類の商品をサンプル
wholesale companies, totaling 25 companies that provided 85 types of products as samples to promote their products to food professionals such as local restaurants and small retail professionals. Participants commented, “I was surprised by the variety of Japanese sake products,” “There are brands I haven’t heard about from our wholesale sales representative, so I’m looking forward to contacting them for more information about these products,” etc. At the event, John Guanter, known as “Sake Samurai” for his promotion of Japanese sake, gave a practical lecture to restaurant professionals titled, “Recent developments of Japanese sake, and how to serve and create a menu for Japanese sake.” During the lecture, Gaunter explained how to create sake menus by dividing sake categories into Daiginjo, Ginjo, and Junmai; by types of sake: clean, pure, and rich; and by production region.
Chicago’s Japanese sake market presumed to expand further in the future
として提供し、現地レストラン・小売関係者 といった食のプロに自社商品を PR した。参 加者からは、 「日本酒の商品層の厚さに驚い た」、 「卸売業者の営業担当から聞いていない 銘柄も扱っていると知り、早速問い合わせて みたい」との声が挙がった。 また、イベントでは、 「酒・サムライ」とし て日本酒の普及啓発活動に取り組むジョン・ ゴントナー氏が「最近の日本酒の発展、日本 酒の出し方、メニューの作り方」と題して、 レストラン関係者に対して実践的な内容を講 演した。講演では、例えばメニューの作り方 として、特定名称酒（大吟醸、吟醸、純米など） の分類ごとに分ける方法、クリーン、ピュア、 リッチなど味のタイプ別に分ける方法、産地 ごとに分ける方法が紹介された。
から日本人駐在員が減り、現在では日本人駐 在員のほとんどがオヘア空港近くの郊外に住 んでいる。このため、ダウンタウンからは日 本人駐在員を対象とした日本食レストランは ほとんど無くなった。しかし最近、米国人の中・ 高所得者層をターゲットとした、すしや炉端 焼きに日本酒を合わせて提供する日本食レス トランがダウンタウンに開店してきている。 シカゴで日本酒を最も多く取り扱うアル コール類卸売業者、テンジン社のエリック・ スワンソン氏は、 「シカゴでの清酒の売り上げ は、約 500 万ドルで、このうち約 400 万ド ルが米国産清酒、100 万ドルが日本産の日 本酒と考えている。シカゴでは日本産日本酒 に対して注目が高まっており、今後も伸びが 期待できる。業者が横断的に集まって日本産 日本酒を PR し、その存在感を高めることが 重要」と語る。 在シカゴ日本国総領事館の担当者は、 「本 イベントは、日本酒を売り込むビジネス向け
シカゴの日本酒市場は今後も拡大予想 シカゴでは日本のバブル崩壊以降、中心部
After the Japanese economic bubble burst, Japanese expatriates in Chicago declined from the Midwest, with current Japanese business mostly residing in the suburbs near O’Hare International Airport. For this reason, Japanese restaurants targeting Japanese businessmen in the downtown area mostly disappeared. Recently however, restaurants serving sushi and robata with Japanese sake to local mid-to-high income earners are opening in the downtown area. Eric Swanson, the largest alcohol wholesale distributor of Japanese sake in Chicago, commented, “Refined sake sales in Chicago is approximately 5 million dollars, of which approximately 4 million dollars come from refined sake produced in the U.S., and the remaining 1 million dollars from refined sake produced in Japan. In Chicago, Japanese sake from Japan is garnering attention with plenty of growth potential for the future. It’s
important for sake traders to gather from afar to boost the presence of Japanese sake in the market.” A representative from The Consulate General of Japan in Chicago said, “This event was the largest event to sell Japanese sake to businesses in Chicago history. In addition to breweries from Japan, U.S. import professionals and Chicago wholesalers came together to sell Japanese sake, one characteristic of this event. As a place to sell Japanese sake to Chicago food professionals, we look forward to further enhance this event in the future.”
Japan America Society of Chicago held an event for customers On the night of June 21, the Japan America Society of Chicago welcomed breweries from Sake Export Association to hold a tasting event for consumers at Restaurant Japonais in downtown Chicago. This event was held with over 100 participants, many from the Japan America Society of Chicago.
イベントとしてはシカゴでは過去最大となっ ており、日本からの蔵元に加えて、米国の輸 入業者やシカゴの卸業者も一体となって日本 酒を売り込むことが特徴となっている。日本 酒をシカゴの食関係者に売り込む場として、 今後ともさらにイベントを充実させていきた い」と語った。
シカゴ日米協会が消費者向けの イベントを開催
6 月 21 日の夜には、シカゴ日米協会が、 日本酒輸出協会の酒蔵を迎え、消費者向け のテースティングイベントを、シカゴダウンタ ウンのレストラン・ジャポネで行った。同イベ ントは、日米協会の会員を中心に 100 名以 上が集まり、大盛況となった。
September 2012 • Vol. 22 • No.166
9
SAKE SOMMELIER CLUB
Alice Hama Certified Wine Expert in Japan, US, and Spain US Ambassador for Nippon Wine Lover Association Board Member of West Coast Wine Community Graduate of UCLA Wine Program and Academie du Vin Tokyo CEO of Real Planning and Management.
3 Kenzo Estate, Napa’s New Jem
ナパの新星、ケンゾー・エステート
S
ince its opening in 2010, Kenzo Estate has become one of the most wellknown Californian wineries among wine enthusiasts locally and in Japan. Often referred to as “the next Opus One”, the winery produces wines that are promising and unique in style which captures and expresses New World fruits but with the Old World complexity. Kenzo Estate was founded by the Founder and Chairman of Capcom, the video game pioneer, Kenzo Tsujimoto, who bought the estate property in 1990. Kenzo Estate is located on Mt. George in Napa Valley at an elevation of 1,550 feet and covers approximately 4,000 acres. 70 acres are planted to vineyards. The estate benefits from the cooling fog in the morning during the growing season, and this provides a suitable temperature control creating an environment that offers grapes structure and elegance. With the dream winemaking team led by the wine maker Heidi Peterson Barrett and the vineyard manager David Abreu, Kenzo Estate produces high quality reds and one white. Heidi, “the Wine Diva”, had worked with big names such as Silver Oak Cellars, Rubicon, and David Arthur, and arguably became the top of the power list in the wine making industry after she scored Robert Parker 100 points for her work at Dalla Valle Vineyards and again at Screaming Eagle. Her wines are famed for their layered aromas and unique complexity in addition to its classic elegance and beauty. David is also a wellknown viticulturist with the career background in top wineries such as Inglenook and Caymus vineyards. His commitment in producing top quality grapes has been the important wheel of the winery. The estate’s flagship wines include following five brands: Rindo, meaning the gentian in Japanese, is a red Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. This is a beautifully balanced wine with layered aromas of ripe red and black forest fruits
10
Japanese Restaurant News
Kenzo Estate http://www.kenzoestate.com/ 3200 Monticello Road Napa, CA 94558 (707) 254-7572 commingled with soft and comfortable spices. Murasaki, meaning the color purple in Japanese, is also a Bordeaux blend. In addition to the luxurious fruits aroma, it bears very silky sensation on the palate. Both wines remind of high quality Right Bank Bordeaux wines especially they share similar characteristics with those wines from Saint-Émilion AOC. Ai, meaning indigo in Japanese, on the other hand, is more of the true expression of classic style of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays warm climate fruits with earthy tone with a hint of smokiness. Yui, meaning the unity in Japanese, is a rose wine made with red Bordeaux blend. It has a beautiful citrus fruits and rose water aroma, followed by strawberries and red cherries. Asatsuyu, meaning morning dew in Japanese, is a white wine made with Sauvignon Blanc. Wonderfully balanced wine with citrus aromas, followed by white flowers bouquet with exotic perfume. Rich and soft touch on the tongue is very enchanting.
2
010 年、ナパにオープンした新星ワイナ リー、ケンゾー・エステート。大手ゲー ム会社カプコンの CEO、辻本憲三氏がオー ナーであるこのワイナリーが生み出すワイン は、その洗練されたスタイルから、業界内外 からも高い評価を受け、今やオーパスワンを 超える次世代カルトワインとも囁かれている。 ケンゾー・エステートは、ナパのワイルドホー ス・ヴァレーに位置しており、4,000 エーカー の広大な土地のうち 70 エーカーに葡萄が栽 培されている。標高 1,550 フィートの山上で あるため、春から秋にかけては早朝に霧が降 り、この霧が優良な葡萄の栽培に好ましい寒 暖の差を生み出している。醸造チームは、ハ イジ・バレットとディビット・アブリューで構 成される。ハイジは「ワインの女神」と称さ れるカリスマ醸造家で、これまでシルバーオー ク、ルビコン、ダラヴァレ、スクリーミング・イー グルなどの有名ワイナリーで経験を積んでき た。ダラヴァレで担当した「マヤ」は、1992 年ビンテージで、ロバートパーカーから「パー フェクト」の 100 ポイントの評価を受け、そ の後、スクリーミング・イーグルにおいても 1997 年ビンテージで再び 100 ポイントを獲 得するという偉業を成し遂げている。一方、 ディビットもイングルヌック、ケイマスなどの 大手有名先でのキャリアを有し、常に、最高 品質の葡萄の栽培への追求を惜しまない。ケ ンゾー・エステートでの仕事の話を受けた時、 より良いワインの生産のため、当時既に植え られていた全ての葡萄樹を引き抜き、一から
畑を作り直すことを雇用の条件としたことは 有名な話である。 このエリート醸造チームが作る現在の主なラ インアップは、以下 5 種類： 紫鈴 は、カベルネ・ソーヴィニョン、メルロー、 カベルネ・フラン、プティ・ベルド、マルベッ クの赤のボルドーブレンドで、熟した赤と黒 の果実と、柔らかく温かいスパイスとハーブ が層を成し、美しいバランスが魅力的。紫 は、 同じく上記の葡萄で構成される赤のボルドー ブレンドであるが、より厳選された葡萄を使 用し、複雑味と絹のような滑らかなフィニッ シュが特徴的。上記 2 種とも、フランス・ボ ルドー右岸の AOC サンテミリオンの優良ワ インを彷彿とさせるエレガントで高貴な印象 を有している。藍は、カベルネ・ソーヴィニョ ン主体の赤ワインで、上記に比べると、より パワフルで伝統的なナパのスタイル。熟した 果実のアロマの他、土のニュアンス、スモー クのヒントが感じられる。結は、赤のボルドー ブレンドで作られるロゼワインで、優しく華 やかなローズウォーターやサクラのアロマに、 イチゴやチェリー、オレンジのヒントが感じら れる。軽やかなスタイルながら、美しい奥行 きが特徴的。あさつゆは、ソーヴィニョン・ ブランの白ワインで、シトラスのアロマに、白 の花のブーケ、またエキゾチックなパフュー ム香が続く美しく艶やかなワイン。まろやか でリッチな印象があり、余韻の長も楽しめる。
Text & Photo: Kats Miyazato
NEWS/TREND
Japan Food Manufacturers Association “Hichimikai” Summer Seminar & Post Event Mixer 南加日系食品メーカー団体｛七味会｝夏のセミナー＆懇親会
Hiroyuki Amano, Consul, Consulate General of Japan
Lecture
T
he “Hichimikai” (under Association President Hirochika Tsuido, President of Takaokaya USA, Inc.), consisting of 57 Japaneseaffiliated food manufacturers active in Southern California, held a summer seminar and funfest at Double Tree Hotel in Torrance on July 13, attended by 59 participants.
The MC of the event was Kats Miyazato in charge of planning the event (owner of M&M Enterprise). Titled “U.S. Food Safety Modernization Act” (FSMA), a lecture was given by Daisuke Kojo, Director, Agriculture, JETRO Chicago Office. The lecture was about regulations related to the FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration), inevitable to get past for Hichimikai members who import, export, and sell food products to and from Japan and other countries, with participants listening intently during this study meeting. Part II started with a toast, followed by speeches from Hiroyuki Amano, Consul of the Consulate General of Japan and Sachiko Yoshimura, Chief Executive Director of JETRO Los Angeles; followed by dinner, information exchange and networking to deepen friendships. After the Hichimikai members were pounded the latest FSMA that gets stricter by the year, the event ended with members stating in unison, “we have to support these regulations with a positive outlook.”
12
Japanese Restaurant News
南組織する親睦団体「七味会」( 会長＝築道寛親・ カルフォルニアで活動する日系食品会社５７社で
高岡屋 USA 社長）は７月１３日、トーレスのダブルツ リー・ヒルトンホテルで夏のセミナーと親睦会が参加 者５９名により開催された。
Lecture by Daiki Kojo
セミナーは企画担当の宮里勝吉（M&M エンタープ ライズ・オーナー）の司会で進行、 「米国食品安全強 化法について」と題して、JETRO シカゴ事務所・古 城大亮氏（調査・農業担当デイレクター・NY 州弁護士） による講演が行われた。 日本その他の国から食料品を輸出入、販売してい る七味会 会員には避けて通れない FDA（米国食品 医薬局）関連法規に関する講演内容で、参加者は真 剣な眼差しの勉強会であった。二部は、乾杯で始ま り、在ロサンゼルス日本国総領事館の天野宏之領事、 JETRO ロサンゼルスの吉村佐知子所長による挨拶が おこなわれ、引き続き夕食を共にしながら情報を交換 し、親交を深めた。 年々厳しくなる安全強化法を叩き込まれた七味会メ ンバーは、 ｛これから前向きに対応しなければななら ない｝と、異口同音に唱えながら閉会した。
七味会のホームページ：
www.hichimikai-usa.com
Lecturer Daiki Kojo (right) and Kats Miyazato, Owner, M&M Enterprise
カリフォルニア州シエラネバダ山脈の麓に広がる豊かな 大地で、おおらかに育まれたお米です。ほんのりと甘みを おびた、つややかでみずみずしい「天恵」は、お寿司をはじめ どんな日本料理にもよく合うおいしい最高級中粒米です。
シエラネバダの天の恵み。
最高級特撰中粒米﹁天恵︵てんけい︶ ﹂
最高級特撰米「天恵 (てんけい)」は、世界有数の米どころ
おおらかなお米﹁天恵﹂、誕生。
40 LBS JFC#21698
The name Tenkei ("gift from Mother Nature") reflects the natural bounty of the world's most renowned rice-growing area, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains in California. With its full aroma, refreshing sweetness and delicately smooth and chewy texture, this rich-tasting premium medium-grain rice is perfect for sushi and goes well with all traditional Japanese dishes.
DISCOVER SHOCHU
Episode 16: Creating Menu That Work
焼酎特集 第１６話：メニュー作りのヒント A menu that’s concise and straightforward is effective in enticing more Shochu drinkers. To start, the first and extremely important step is to evaluate the restaurant surroundings, configuration and the main characteristics that define its key positioning. Also, design an all-inclusive alcoholic beverage menu, together with Sake and beer. The final step is to meld these points into a harmonized, complete menu listing.
and menu communication.
The following is a time-saving summary on creating a basic Shochu menu. It provides a good starting point that can be extended and customized for each individual food establishment’s needs.
Tasting: Understanding each Shochu takes training. The practice of tasting them and noting the flavors down from time to time, leads to the creation of unique and original tasting notes.
Overall Considerations
Motivating the Customers
Local Characteristics: Once again, defining the restaurant’s unique and area characteristic is very important. Investigate the surroundings, analyze how the area offerings and demographics affect the food business, and identify the visitors who would come eat and drink. This study is a necessity in order to set the framework on the number of products, price bracket, and frequency of menu renewals.
Make it Attractive: Shochu as a unique Japanese spirit has not yet reached common recognition among Americans. Therefore, to familiarize the category, what better way is there than to include simple explanation right on the menu: what is it and how to enjoy it best?
Target Group: What group of customers would be the main focus of Shochu sales? Japanese or Americans? Men or women? What age range? Identifying a clear demographic target will define their general lifestyle, likes and dislikes, thus help make decisions on product selection, serving styles, 焼酎をより多くのお客様に飲んでもらうに は、お客様にとって分かり易い魅力的なメニ ューが必要なツールとなる。前回はメニュー に書き入れる焼酎の表現をどのようにしたら 良いかを紹介したので、今回は実際にメニュ ーを作る時に参考にしてもらいたい要点をま とめました。
Product Descriptions and Photos: Using all resources including the breweries, gather as many flavor descriptions and photos of the products. Most often, copywork styles and photography angles would vary from one brewery to the next, therefore, time for editing and reformatting for menu use is required.
Menu layout in a succinct and informative manner would relay an image of a restaurant providing intangible services to benefit the customer. These may include information on Shochu ingredients, brewery origin, and serving sizes by the ounce ( for bottle, carafe, glass ). Further, explanation on the Warizai, or mixers, can be creative: with fresh fruit, juices, teas, and tonics, all with clearly marked corresponding prices. や具材の種類・メニューの表現方法等を決め ていくのに必要。
•写真：フレーバー等の情報：メーカーや
自店の商圏・店舗形態・特徴は何なのか等を 再確認するプロセスを踏みながら、日本酒・ ワイン等のアルコール飲料とのメニュー共存 を図り、統一性を持たせたメニュー作りを進 めてもらいたい。
卸業者から商品の写真やフレーバー情報等の 情報を出来るかぎり取寄せておく。お客様が 一目で見て分かる商品の写真と正確な情報は 出来る限り多く収集し、その中から統一性の 有る情報をメニューに書き入れるようにして いく。メーカーや卸業者によって写真の取り 方や情報の構成の仕方が異なるので、写真撮 りや情報の書き直しはどうしても必要になる 場合が多い。
メニューを作る前の準備
•試飲：自店で取扱おうと考えいる焼酎を
•地域性：ビジネス街なのか、行楽地なの
試飲して、メニューに独自の説明を加えるこ とが出来るように自分の感じた風味を書き残 しておく。
か。都市なのか、田舎なのか。日本食レスト ランが立ち並び、競合店が多い地域なのか等 々の自店が置かれている地域性を洗い出し、 その地域性がどの様に飲食に影響を及ぼすの かを書き出しておく。品数・予算・新商品の 投入頻度等を決めていくのに必要。
•ターゲット客は誰か：来店している客層 の中のどこに焦点を絞って焼酎を売るのか。 日本人なのか米国人なのか、男性なのか、女 性なのか、年齢は、どんなライフスタイルの 客なのか等を決めておく。商品の選択・割材
顧客ニーズへの対応 •アピール度：そもそも、米国では焼酎と いう日本産蒸留酒のことを知っている人は少 ない。焼酎とは何なのか、飲み方はどうした ら良いかなどの説明をメニューに簡単に書き 入れることが必要である。また、焼酎の割材 や具材の価格、サービングサイズもボトル・ カラフェ・グラスをオンス表示で明記するこ も必要となる。そして、試飲を通して感じ取
Shochu Health Benefits: Although a numbers of medical research in Japan have substantiated many health benefits of Shochu, that claim cannot be transferred for use in the US. However, the low-calorie claim that Shochu contains the enzyme Urokinase that help break up blood clots, is a fact which many alcohol consumers would be interested in. Suitable Price Setting: In today’s tough economic times, the dining public have become highly price conscious. Therefore, in order to accommodate, dining establishments cannot afford the old trade practice of simply doubling or tripling the cost to set menu prices. Rather, careful calculation based on profit margins, especially on expensive brews, would help reach a pricing point more attractive to today’s diners. Buying Motivation: Using key words that clearly describe and differentiate one product from another, encourages drinkers to explore multiple styles of Shochu. For instance, “Real/Honkaku” (the traditional single distillation Shochu), versus catchy contemporary phrases as “world renown” and “popular”, describe products from different time periods. A guest may want to compare both in one sitting. Quality Choices: A restaurant diner likes to be offered choices, and wants to drink good quality liquor. Offering a good range of Shochu quality, from high to low, would appease the guest who’d to see the entire quality offering before making the selection. った焼酎の特徴を分かり易い独自の表現で書 き入れることで「ひと手間を掛けている店」 という良いイメージをお客様に与えるような 工夫もしてもらいたい。
Food Pairing: Since Shochu pairs well with a variety of foods, menu recommendations such as “XX Shochu goes well with XX dish” or “We recommend XX Shochu with XX” are extremely helpful. This leads to an improved dining experience, and a very happy customer. Variety: In today’s tech-savvy world, more of the drinking and eating public is exploring various kinds of Shochu. Appealing to their intellect is another good tactic: arranging products by location, ingredient, particular distillation method, aging period. The curious customer may be motivated to delve into one type, or try a variety. Nevertheless, providing the catalyst to prompt curiosity and interest will expand Shochu sales. This also includes adding new products to manage these curiosity seekers. Reflecting the Seasons: Japanese culture and the four seasons are closely weaved in, and thus their cuisine takes great effort in highlighting them. In America, however, that sentiment is not as strong. Therefore, providing that seasonal connection, in food and its complementary Shochu, would greatly advance the culinary offering, even in “season-less” area as Southern California. Association to holidays, festivals, and the seasons can strike at the gentle sentiment of the dining guest.
•料理との融合：焼酎は料理との相性の良 いことに優れているので、メニューの中に 「XXX料理にはXXX焼酎」や「このXXX焼酎は XXX料理と合わせたい」というようなメッセ ージを書き入れるようにする。
•健康面のアピール：焼酎の「カロリーが 低い」点、焼酎に含まれる酵素が「血栓を防 ぐ」などの体に優しいことをアピールする。
•景気に合わせた価格帯：不況の中、お 客様の価格に対しての意識がシビアーになる 中、価格の高い商品の品揃えの幅は狭まれて いる。仕入れ価格が高い商品の値入は利益額 でいくら取るかで決めるようにして、仕入れ 価格の何倍という掛け算方式では値入しない ようにすることが求められている。
•購買動機：「本格」・「伝統」というよ うな本物志向的なコダワリを打ち出したり、 「注目の」・「人気の」というような新しい 話題性を謳い文句にして、メニュー上の商品 に時間的な変化（旧・新）を持たせて演出 する。
•品質重視：やはり、品質の良い酒を誰で も飲みたい。安価で低い品質の商品だけで品 揃えするのではなく、品質の高い商品も必ず 入れるようにする。
•バラエティー：お客様は色々な焼酎を飲 んで経験し、情報化時代の中で知識レベルも 高まっている。地域・原料・蒸留方法・熟成 期間で分けて品揃えするようにして、購買動 機を促し、来店頻度を高めるようにする。更 に、お客様に飽きられないように、常に新し い商品を投入していく。
•季節感：米国では日本のように季節・旬 によって食材が大きく変わることは無いにせ よ、季節・気候による温暖の差や各季節ごと の催事・イベントに合わせてメニューに変化 をつけることも取り入れてもらいたい。 メニュー作成時に考慮しなければならない点 は上記以外にも有ると思いますが、皆様の考 える時間を少しでもセーブする為のヒントに なればとの思いで簡単にまとめました。メニ ュー全体を完全なものに仕上げるよりも、自 店に取り入れることが出来る内容から始めて みて下さい。
Los Angeles 213.626.9458 • New York 201.933.9555 • Phoenix 602.455.8000 • Boston 617.469.8312
ShoChu eduCation SaMple What is Shochu?
Shochu is distilled sake, a colorless Japanese spirit made from high starch grains and vegetables such as barley, sweet potato, rice, molasses and buckwheat. While Jizake brewing thrives in colder environments, Southern Japan is much too hot. Rather, the South has its own liquor, Shochu, the “Fiery Spirit”.
Shochu Types
Barley Shochu Barley Shochu stands distinct, with a well-rounded and sweet flavor of barley. The aged variety which has similarities to the full flavored single malt whiskey, is highly popular in Japan. Sweet Potato Shochu Sweet potato Shochu has mellow, rich flavors and a well rounded natural sweetness. Depending on the Koji used, it may be fruity, while another can be reminiscent of herbs. Rice Shochu Rice Shochu has elegant, rice grain flavor that’s satisfying, with lingering traces of sweetness which resembles fine Jizake.
Menu SaMple 1 CaSual Style priCe range $ - $$ メニューサンプル例１
How to Enjoy Shochu Straight - The old school way of drinking Shochu. The best to enjoy the pure and undiluted flavor of traditional Honakaku Shochu. On the Rocks - One of the most popular way of enjoying Shochu. The subtle nuances of flavors unfolds with each sip. Mizuwari - Shochu mixed with water is a great way to enjoy throughout the meal. Oyuwari - Shochu mixed with warm water highlights aromas and yields smoother flavor. Okan (Warmed) - Enjoy the best of both worlds - undiluted and warmed. A full flavor, gentle aroma, subtle sweetness. Creating Your Own: Add fresh fruits herbs, mix with juice, soda or tea.
Menu SaMple 2 elegant Style priCe range $$$ - $$$$ メニューサンプル例２
SHOCHU
Shochu Menu
iichiko Seirin 20% Barley $35 / Bottle $4 / Glass (3oz)
Hakutake Shiro 24% Rice $40 / Bottle $5 / Glass (3oz)
～ Make It Special ～
Satsuma Shiranami 24% Sweet Potato $45 / Bottle $5.5 / Glass (3oz)
Yokaichi Mugi 24% Barley $30 / Bottle $3.50 / Glass (3oz)
Ume Plum $0.50 / piece Lemon Slices $1.00 / 6 slices Cucumber Slices $1.00 / 3 slices Shiso Leaves $2.00 / 3 pieces Oolong Tea $2.00 / glass Grape Juice $2.00 / glass
Ikkomon 25% Very special Shochu made with sweet potato Koji. $65 / Bottle $8 / Glass (3oz)
25% A unique Shochu distilled only from Soba. $60 / Bottle $7 / Glass (3oz)
Satsuma Otome
Make It Special!
20% In unique pink bottle. Shochu made with sweet potatoes! $55 / Bottle $7 / Glass (3oz)
Ume Plum Lemon Slices Calpico Oolong Tea
Satsuma Kuro Shiranami
$0.50 / piece $1.00 / 6 slices $2.00 / glass $2.00 / glass
Towari
24% Black-Koji based Shochu. Enjoy the mild sweetness of sweet potato. $45 / Bottle $6 / Glass (3oz)
Hakutake Shiro 25% The best selling rice Shochu! $50 / Bottle $6 / Glass (3oz)
iichiko Silhouette 25% The best selling barley Shochu! $45 / Bottle $5.5 / Glass (3oz)
Note: Above Prices Listed as Examples
Washington D.C. 301.927.2061 • Las Vegas 702.216.2715 • San Diego 858.748.9458 • Honolulu 808.422.6555 • Tokyo September 2012 • Vol. 22 • No.166
15
TAKARA SAKE USA INC. TURNS 30 米国宝酒造（株）創業30周年
Mutual Trading Reps Visit Takara Sierra Nevadas Provide Ideal Fushimi-Like Environment
共同貿易 米国宝酒造見学レポート 京都伏見と変わらぬ理想的な水をシエラネバダ山脈から
R
ecently, more than sixty Mutual Trading sales reps visited Takara Sake USA Inc. The trip was planned for the reps to further extend expertise on Sake brewing through a guided tour of the newly expanded plant. The group held forums on product development and on lively exchange of marketing ideas. Thirty years ago was the start of Takara Sake USA Inc. as the third Sake brewery to establish production of Japanese Sake on American soil. What originally started at a 1,100 kilo-liters capacity, after the latest $10MM major plant expansion, now can produce 7,500 kilo-liters annually, to become the largest producer in the US. And in relative comparison to the 1,302 Sake breweries in all of Japan, Takara Sake USA’s current output volume would rank within the top 20. But at Takara Sake USA, it’s not at all about volume, but rather, it’s everything got to do with quality. Research, development, and quality control are the company’s top priority that helps elevate quality standards reaching levels produced in Fushimi, renowned to produce some of the best brews. The US production team brings the brewing art experience that no high tech advancement can provide. With the latest facility improvement, Takara can now create
#1 Selling Sake in the US!
very premium brews is small lots, separate from the flagship Shochikubai Sake.
perature hovering just under 60 degrees F, naturally, while the Sake matures quietly.
QUALITY #1, INSURED BY MOTHER NATURE
ACHIEVING #1 & AIMING EVEN HIGHER
What makes Takara Sake USA highly unique is the very location of the plant in Berkeley, California. Here, the plant receives waters collected from the winter’s snow of the Sierra Nevada’s that’s hardly affected by human activity, melting in springtime and slowly seeping into the bedrocks deep down. For the record, water from this area is deemed one of the best in the country, along with Seattle, San Francisco, Oakland, and Chicago.
In America, Shochikubai Sake is The #1 selling Sake. And at the 2011 U.S. National Sake Appraisal, Shochikubai was awarded a gold medal. Among all the gold medal awardees, Shochikubai was the only winner, brewed outside of Japan.
Trailing water, the next main ingredient used in Sake is rice. And the Takara plant is in very close proximity to the Sacramento Valley where rice is harvested. Great large bags of the rice ingredient, each weighing two tons each, arrive at the Takara plant every week, all freshly milled to order. And what Fushimi cannot offer, but is abundant at Takara USA is the brisk breeze that creates the optimal environment to cool down the towering stainless aging tanks that gleam brightly under the California sunshine. In the summertime, the Pacific Ocean pushes cool breeze inland, and in winter, the Sierra Nevada ranges rushes cooler air in the opposite direction. With this continuous circulation of cool air, the tanks can maintain an optimal tem-
Gold Medal Winner 2011 US National Sake Appraisal
Takara Tasting Room and Sake Museum
Los Angeles 213.626.9458 • New York 201.933.9555 • Phoenix 602.455.8000 • Boston 617.469.8312
先
日、共同貿易営業員が米国宝酒造を訪問した。新し く拡張された工場の見学を通して、酒造りの専門知 識をより高め、製品開発やマーケティングアイデア 等活発な意見を交換して来た。
ラネバダ山脈の冬の雪が人の手に触れる事なく春に溶け、ゆっ くりと地面奥深くの岩盤に浸透し流れ出る水を得る事が出来 る。酒造に用いられるこの地域の水は、シアトル、サンフラン シスコ、オークランド、シカゴと並んで最高の水質である。
今から30年前、米国宝酒造が第三の醸造所としてアメリカの地 に日本酒工場を設立した。当初は年間生産量（原酒ベース） 1,100キロリットルであったが、現在では設備増設に約1,000万 ドルの投資を行い、米国では最大の年間生産量である7500キロ リットルに達している。また、この年間生産量は、日本国内に ある1,302の全ての酒蔵と比較してもトップ20に入る生産量を誇 っている。
酒造りにおいて水の次に大切なものは米である。米はサクラメ ントバレー地域近隣から収穫され、毎週宝酒造に一袋2トン入っ た精米したての酒米が配送される。
しかし、生産量だけが全てではない。注目して欲しい点はその 素晴らしい品質にある。最高級品と呼ばれる伏見産の日本酒と 同レベルまで引き上げる為の品質管理投資も行われている。 米国生産チームは最先端の設備だけでは得る事の出来ない酒造 りの技法をアメリカで実践する事に成功している。そして、新 たな設備の増設により、主力商品の松竹梅に加えて、少量で造 られる高品質な酒も生産することが出来るようになった。
母なる自然に見守られ、品質第一を基本に！ ～理想的な環境の中で
また、涼しくて風通しが良いので、熟成タンクを冷却するのに 最適な環境が備わっているのである。カリフォルニアの強い日 差しの下で明るく輝くステンレス製の熟成タンクを冷却するの に、夏は、太平洋からの冷たい季節風が内陸に注ぎ込み、冬は シエラネバダ山脈からの冷気が下降してくる。1年を通じて冷気 Inside a Koji producing chamber. の連続循環により、貯蔵タンクの酒が自然に適温の華氏60度（ 16℃）以下を維持することができ、その間、酒は静かに熟成さ れるのである。これは京都の伏見には無い事である。
酒コンテストで1位を受賞！さらに目標は高く！ さらに上を目指して！ 松竹梅は米国で売上げナンバーワンの酒である。2011年全米酒 歓評会で金メダルを受賞。全ての金メダル受賞酒の内、松竹梅 は日本国外で製造された唯一の製品である。
カリフォルニア州バークレー市に位置する米国宝酒造の一番の 特徴は工場が建てられた「地の利」にある。この地域ではシエ
Freshly milled rice arrive in two ton bags.
Sommelier Talk 25 — Sake Brewed in America — ソムリエトーク 第25話 － 米国での酒造り－
Toshio Ueno Vice President Sake School of America Master Sake Sommelier, SSI Advanced Wine Sommelier Shochu Adviser, SSI Beer Adviser, FBO Co, Japan
The primary difference between US and Japanese production is the rice ingredient. Most Sake makers on the American West Coast use rice from the Sacramento Valley grown for food consumption. In comparison, Japanese breweries use Sake rice specifically bred for Sake brewing. Most significant is the starch core “Shinpaku,” that affects the delicate and aromatic elements, which is larger and more concentrated with Sake rice. The contrast of the starch composition drastically affects Koji growth, leading to taste and quality differences. The two rice types also affect the basic brewing process. Since American rice do not contain Shimpaku, brewers must make adjustments to control the growth of Aspergillus Oryzae Koji mold onto steamed rice. In a series of inter-connected chain of events, saccharification, malting,
and fermentation, are all affected. Brewers using American rice must make extra effort to create the ideal conditions for malting to compensate for the lack of Shimpaku to reach at the comparable quality of a Japan brewed Sake. How to apply steam, the steam temperature, humidity level, and the temperature of the Koji room, must all be adjusted. Also, water properties dramatically alter the taste and texture of the Sake. Ideally, breweries should use quality water from as close to the natural source as possible. For example, Takara Sake USA Inc. is situated where an abundance of natural soft waters are piped in from the Sierra Nevada’s. Soft water helps Sake attain the delicate feel and texture, as well as a refined finish. Considering that the volume ratio of water required to brew Sake into a finished product, versus
the volume of the rice ingredient, is 30 parts to 1. Moreover, 80% of the finished product comprises of water. These two facts sum up how crucial quality water plays into the creation of fine Sake. There are currently ten companies producing Sake in North America: seven in U.S. and three in Canada. Just recently, there’s been a noticeable increase of Americans starting their own pop-up breweries using locally grown rice to brew Sake that suits their local dishes. Similar to the trend in the American craft beer industry where the public is calling local brews with recognition by name, a day when Americans would brew their own local craft Jizake, may actually not be too far out in the future.
日本酒を米国で造る場合、大きな違いとして最初に挙げら れるのは「米」である。米国内の殆んどの酒造メーカーは 西海岸に所在し、酒造用の米はカリフォルニア州サクラメ ントバレー産の食用米を使用している。日本で醸造用専門 の米として使われている「酒米」とは異なり、米粒の中心 に見られる「心白」という白い澱粉質の集中している部分 が無く、麹菌が育つ環境が「酒米」とは大きく異なる。
発酵状態が変わり、最終的な酒の風味や品質を左右するの だ。その為に米国の各酒造メーカーは米麹を理想的な状態 にするように工夫を凝らしている。米を蒸す時の蒸気の温 度・蒸気の加え方、麹室の湿度・温度を調整する等が必要 になるのである。
り、製造段階での水の使用量は原料となる米の３０倍以上 になるので、良質な水の確保は日本酒製造に不可欠なので ある。
その米の違いは当然最終製品として風味・品質に関わるの だが、実はその製造工程にも影響を及ぼすのである。蒸米 に麹菌の胞子をいかにつけるかで、米の糖化・溶け具合・
次に「水」の違いが酒の飲み口やテクスチャーに影響を与 える。米国宝酒造のようにシエラネバダ山脈を水源として 良質な超軟水が確保できれていることが理想的である。軟 水で仕込んだ酒は柔らかい飲み口・テクスチャーになり上 品な酒に仕上がるからである。日本酒の約８０％は水であ
現在、酒を製造している会社が北米に１０社（米国７社、 カナダ３社）ほど存在する。最近ではアメリカ人による地 酒が造られるようにもなって来ている。その土地で収穫さ れた米を使って、その地域の料理に合う酒を造ろうとして いる。将来、アメリカ人によって造られた地酒が今の米国 内の地ビールのようにお客様に支持されるようになる日が いつかは来るであろう。
Washington D.C. 301.927.2061 • Las Vegas 702.216.2715 • San Diego 858.748.9458 • Honolulu 808.422.6555 • Tokyo September 2012 • Vol. 22 • No.166
17
CULINARY PROFESSIONALS
San Mateo, SF/Bay Area
Yuzu Sushi & Grill
Text & Photo : Elli Sekine 54 W. 37th Ave., San Mateo, CA 94403 650-358-0298 Hours: Mon-Thu 11:30am-2pm, Mon-Sun 5:30pm-10pm, Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Sat 12pm-2:30pm
Sushi is the best fast-food in the world not available at home 寿司は家庭で味わえない世界最高のファーストフード
寿司ネタは、他では味わえない珍しい魚や 世界各地の魚、また日本から上質の魚を豊富 に揃えている。ネタ以外にクオリティーに差 が出るのは、やはりシェフの料理に対する心 構えが違うのだろう。たとえばシャリ、米、 使う酢、温度の管理など、細部にこだわる事 で大きな差が生じる。もちろん、ネタも世界 の魚を品質別、仕入れ値に対し段階別に値 段を表示し、客がそれに価値をつけるので、 期待通りの満足感を得られる。もしもっと安 い寿司を食べたいなら、この町には沢山の選 択肢がある。寿司屋の経営は、最近のやきと りやラーメンのブームから比べると、寿司ネ タの単価が高いだけに経営も難しい。それに、 「ＹＵＺＵ」のように場所が辺鄙であれば客 はつきにくい。そんな条件の中、経営を黒字 にするには 3 年の苦労があったという。
S
an Mateo where many Japanese residents reside is a community with the highest number of sushi restaurants. Sushi continues to be popular, with the differentiation of customers continuing due to the unique characteristics of the restaurant. Recent trends show that due to the branding of specialty cuisine, various types of restaurants consisting of the owner and customer values are incre asing. Celebrating their eighth year in business, “YUZU” is a casual-style authentic sushi and izakaya-type restaurant with mostly local customers who come to enjoy sushi. Despite the restaurant’s casual style, the sushi price is not cheap, yet repeat customers thoroughly understand the value of YUZU’s sushi. What’s considered authentic is their products and service. Sushi in the U.S. reflects various values. Recently, reasonably-priced and quick “revolving sushi bar” mainly serving “American sushi” rolls, buffetstyle or delivered, etc., varies. While
18
Japanese Restaurant News
there are very few authentic sushi restaurants in the Bay Area, “YUZU” is an old-fashioned restaurant managed by a Japanese owner. Persisting on customer service and products similar to Japan is the formula to acquire quality customers who understand the value of quality. Sushi ingredients consists of various rare fish from worldwide not offered elsewhere and an abundance of quality fish from Japan. Aside from the sushi ingredients, another area where difference in quality is apparent is the chef’s values about food preparation. For example, sushi rice, rice, vinegar used to prepare sushi rice, temperature management, and the more the chef persists in these details, the greater the difference in overall quality. Of course, sushi ingredients from worldwide by quality, purchase price, etc., by grade and price are listed as preferred by customers to ensure the satisfaction they expect. For more reasonably-priced sushi, there are plenty of options in this town. The management (Continued on page 20)
日テオは、ベイエリアで寿司屋が最も多 本人が多い居住区として知られるサンマ
いコミュニティーである。寿司人気は依然と してブームだが、その店の特徴で客層の差別 化が進んでいる。最近の傾向としては、専門 食のブランディング化により、経営者とお客 との価値観で成り立つ、様々なタイプのレス トランが増えている。 開業 8 年目になる「ＹＵＺＵ」はカジュア ルなスタイルながら本格的な寿司と居酒屋タ イプのレストラン。お客のほとんどはローカル で、彼らはここに寿司を食べにくる。カジュ アルと言っても寿司の単価は決して安くはな いが、常連客達は充分その価値を知ってい る。何を本格的とするかと言えば、その商品 とサービスである。 アメリカでは寿司の価値観はそれぞれ。最 近では、安く、早い、 「回転すし」、ロールを 中心にした “アメリカン寿司”、バッフェスタイ ル、デリバリー中心の店などその用途も様々。 本格派と言える寿司屋はベイエリアには数少 ない中、 「ＹＵＺＵ」は日本人経営のオールド ファッションなレストラン。日本で味わえるよ うなサービス、商品にこだわるからこそ、そ の価値が分かる上質の客が付くという定義に なる。
お客が欲しがるものをすぐその場で出す― ―家庭では味わえないダイニング 同店では、毎夜常連客が寿司カウンターを 埋める。 彼らはマネージャー、有馬洋一氏 の寿司を食べにくる。 「寿司屋とは本来、一 番新鮮で美味しい魚をシェフが選んでサービ スするもの。そんなダイニングは寿司屋以外 では会席料理くらいしか経験できない。今日 は入った魚が目の前にある、食べたいものを その場でシェフがサービスする、これは家庭 では味わえない、寿司屋の醍醐味じゃないか な」と語る有馬氏は、お客の前でサービスで きる寿司カウンターでの仕事が楽しいという。 彼のリップサービスはユニークで、エンタ― テイ二ングなサービスやメニューにはない、 シェフの “Omakase” を楽しみにしている客 が多いのも日本では当たり前だが、アメリカ では珍しい光景だ。 長い料理人としての経験を持つ有馬氏は 寿司のみでなく、一品料理のメニューも独自 に創作している。中でも人気なのは牛タンシ チュー ($10.95)、つくね、スパイシーポーク ベリーサラダ、ひつま蒸し（$23）で、キッチ ンとのコミュニケーションも良く、コンスタン （20 ページへ続く）
of sushi restaurant is difficult considering the high price of sushi ingredients compared to the recent yakitori and ramen boom. Also, because “YUZU” is in a remote location, customers are difficult to attract. With these conditions, there were 3 years of challenges to make the business profitable.
To provide what the customer wants on the spot: cuisine not typically available at home At Yuzu, repeat customers line the sushi counter nightly for Manager Yoichi
20
Japanese Restaurant News
Arima’s sushi. “Conventionally, the chef chooses and serves the most freshest and delicious fish to his customers. This dining style can only be experienced today during kaiseki courses outside of sushi restaurants. Fish purchased that day is lined right in front of the customers to choose from and the chef to prepare and serve on the spot. This dining style can’t be enjoyed at home, and what I consider to be the epitome of enjoying sushi at a sushi restaurant,” said manager Yoichi Arima, who enjoys serving sushi to customers from behind the sushi counter. Conversations with him are unique. While many customers in Japan enjoy “Omakase” course that isn’t entertaining or listed in the menu, but customers who enjoy this style of service in the U.S. are rare. Chef Arima who is a long-time chef not only prepares sushi, but also his original a la carte menu items. Among them, the most popular are “Beef Tongue Stew” ($10.95), “Meatball,” “Spicy Pork Belly Salad,” “Stone Bowl Crispy Seafood Rice” ($23), prepared while maintaining good communication with the kitchen and served with consistency in flavor, what Chef Arima calls his “preparation method.” Because sushi is mainly served, other menu items prepared in the kitchen must be manualized. For example, using coals is the most delicious way to serve meatballs; however, the idea derived from pot dishes is utilized to grill the meatballs so that the inside is moist and soft, while the outside is crispy and aromatic. Restaurant owner Hiromitsu Endo’s
first restaurant “Sakae Sushi” opened 18 years ago. While sushi restaurants become more casual, Endo didn’t relax his basic stance, which made him the only high-end sushi restaurant in the peninsula. Eight years ago, “Yuzu” was opened to differentiate from “local, casual” sushi restaurants. “Yuzu” is located behind Hillsdale blvd., not visible at first glance, but stress the location is a place where diners can walk in casually. Their concept of sushi is similar to “Sakae Sushi.” However, “Yuzu” is characteristic for being a more compact restaurant closely tied to the local community. Manager Arima in charge of the general operation said, “I was always conscious of our aim to be ‘a delicious but casual sushi restaurant and izakaya.’ This year, we celebrate our eighth year in business, and we’ve continued to have a full house every night. Before, we never got reviews on Yelp, and our ads through Japanese media yielded few customers.
Suddenly, a local newspaper gave us a review for their column, and suddenly we attained a good reputation. Recently, our customers advertise for us through wordof-mouth. We see it as positive feedback we earned for taking our business seriously.” “Yuzu” is also persistent in offering premium Japanese sake, a place for diners to enjoy conventional Japanese cuisine consisting of sake with appetizers. The types of Japanese sake offered varies with some high-end sake costing over $250 a bottle, ordered by customers who understand the value of “keeping” these bottles under their names. Yuzu’s Japanese-style service of bottle-keeping is another draw that attracts sake fans. In the future, sushi chefs may further decline in numbers. While conventional sushi is losing ground to more casual styles of sushi, the presence of authentic sushi restaurants are becoming even more treasured.
トな味を提供する。それを有馬氏は “料理法” だと語る。寿司が中心だけに、キッチンで作 る料理をマニュアル化する必要がある。例え ばつくねを美味しく出すには、炭焼が一番だ けど、あえて鍋料理のアイディアを用い、中 をしっとり柔らか、外側をカリッと香ばしくグ リルして仕上げるといった法である。 同レストランのオーナー、遠藤博光氏が第 一号店、 「Sakae Sushi」をオープンしたの は 18 年前。寿司屋がカジュアル化する中で、 現在に至るまで基本を崩さない、ペニンシュ ラでは唯一ハイエンドの寿司屋でもある。そ して 8 年前、 「ローカル、カジュアル」の差 別化を図りオープンさせたのが、 「Yuzu」。ヒ ルスデ―ルの裏手通りにある「YUZU」は、 目立たない場所に位置するが、その点、入り やすさを強調している。 「Sakae Sushi」と 寿司のコンセプトは似ている。しかしここは、 もっとこじんまり、ローカルに密着しているの が特徴だ。この店全般を切り盛りしている有 馬氏は、 「寿司、居酒屋で美味しく気軽な店」 を意識していた。オープン 8 年目の今年になっ て、毎日ほとんどフルハウスが続いている。 「前は Yelp などの書き込みもなかったし、日 本のメディアに宣伝してもお客は少なかった。 でもある時、米系新聞のコラムに掲載されて 以来、評価がぐっとあがりました。最近では、 書き込みでお客が宣伝をしてくれています。 真面目に商売をしている証だと受け止めてい ます」。 同店は、プレミアム酒を揃えているのもこ だわりの一つ。まさに日本酒と肴といった本 来の日本食が楽しめる。酒の種類も豊富で、 ＄250 以上もするハイエンドの酒まであるの だが、それをキープする価値を分かる常連客 がいる。ボトルをキープできるサービスも日 本的で、酒ファンを惹きつけている。 これから将来、寿司職人はますます減るか
もしれない。寿司離れ、カジュアル化される なか、本格派の寿司屋の存在が貴重になって いる。
1. Average Price / 客単価 Lunch: $13 - $15 Dinner: $35 - $40
2. Daily Sales / 一日売上平均 N/A
3. Food Cost Percentage (%) フードコスト
N/A
4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales Percentage (%) 売上に対するアルコール比率
20~25%
5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 )
Beer, sake
6. Target Customer / 客層
Businessmen on their way home from work, locals
7. Featured Menu / メニューの特徴 Sushi, sashimi, a la carte menu selections
8. Food Supplier / 仕入れ先
JFC, Nishimoto, NASales, IMP
9. Number of Staff / 従業員数 10
10. Number of Seats / 席数 26 seats, 7 counter seats
11. Opening Date / 開店年月 May 2004
12. Varieties of Sake in Store
取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋
Types of Japanese sake offered and sales trends: Okunomatsu, Esshu
INTERNATIONAL MARINE PRODUCTS, INC.
A Full Service Provider of Food Products From The World Comprehensive Consulting 路 Quality Management 路 Innovative Menu Creation
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2011_Sept_IMP_Ad_Final.indd 1
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10/4/11 11:23 AM
CULINARY PROFESSIONALS
Washington, D.C.
Sushi Taro
Text & Photo : Aya Ota (www.bioartsnyc.com) 1503 17th Street, NW, Washington, D.C. 20036 Tel: 202-462-8999 Lunch 11:30 - 2:00 Mon - Fri, Dinner 5:30 - 10:00 Mon - Sat, Closed on Sunday
“Sushi Taro” widely recognized as a top class restaurant in D.C.
-Following their major transition from a casual izakaya to an authentic kaiseki restaurant.誰もが認める D.C. トップクラスの店『寿し Taro』
- カジュアルな居酒屋から正統派会席へ大変革の軌跡 -
Owner and chef Nobuhiro Yamazaki
Left: Sweet Fish Mustard Vinegar Miso / Right: Goma Tofu
H
ailed by various media outlets for being “selected as one of the top 10 restaurants by the Washington Post,” “ranking 36 nationwide as one of the 100 Best U.S. Restaurant 2012 by Forbes Magazine,” etc., “Sushi Taro” is recognized by all as the “top Japanese restaurant in Washington, D.C.,” renowned for their authentic kaiseki courses and sushi. Inside the restaurant with a refined atmosphere is filled with customers at all times, seemingly stable in their success. However, their path to success today was not as smooth as it may seem. We interviewed owner and chef Nobuhiro Yamazaki about his path to success today. Sushi Taro opened 26 years ago; a long-established Japanese restaurant opened by the father of the current owners, the Yamazaki brothers. The previous restaurant “Sushi Taro” was a casual izakaya-style restaurant with average customer spending of approximately $35. The restaurant, renowned for their “reasonable and delicious” cuisine, was so busy past 7:00PM with customers lining up daily that reservations were not necessary. A line of customers leading
22
Japanese Restaurant News
up the stairs to the second-floor restaurant is a regional specialty restaurant. It’s common to wait for a long time from lining up to getting seated. Still, “inside the restaurant that seats 120 to capacity, we had 3 rotations of customers every night,” without a doubt a top-class restaurant in Washington, D.C. This highly successful izakaya changed directions approximately three years ago and transformed into a high-end Japanese restaurant that serves authentic kaiseki courses and sushi. This transition was made in 2008, approximately six years after Nobuhiro Yamazaki took over the business as owner. At the time, despite the fact the restaurant was successful, Yamazaki followed his strong conviction to “attain the restaurant I truly want,” and underwent a truly drastic change. The seat capacity was changed to 80 seats, two-thirds of the previous capacity, and the inside renovated to offer high-end spacious dining space. A policy requiring advanced reservations were implemented and the renowned long lines of customers disappeared. The menu consists mainly of the traditional kaiseki course ($80) (Continued on page 24)
「ワに選出」「Forbs Magazine の 100
シントンポストでトップ 10 レストラン
Best U.S. Restaurant, 2012 で 全 米 36 位に選出」―数々のメディアから称賛され、 誰もが「ワシントン D.C.でトップの日本食店」 と認める店がある。正統派会席と寿司で定 評のある『寿しＴａｒｏ』だ。洗練された雰囲 気の店内には常に客があふれ、一見、安定し て繁盛し続けてきたかのように見える同店だ が、 これまでの道のりは決して平坦ではなかっ た。オーナーシェフの山﨑信博氏に、現在の 成功に至る軌跡を語ってもらった。 同店の創業は 26 年前。現在オーナーを務 める山﨑兄弟の父親の代から続く、老舗の日 本食店だ。以前の『寿司太郎』は居酒屋ス タイルのカジュアルな店で、ディナーの平均 客単価は約 35 ドル。 「安くて美味しい」と評 判の同店では、午後 7 時以降は予約を取る 必要もないほど連日行列ができた。ビルの 2 階に位置する同店へ続く階段での行列は、こ の地域の名物で、並んでから席に着くまで長 時間待つのは当たり前。それでも、 「120 席 ある店内で、毎晩客が 3 回転した」といい、 間違いなく、ワシントン D.C. でトップクラス の繁盛店だったのだ。 この大繁盛していた居酒屋を、正統派会席 と寿司を提供する高級日本食店へ大きく方向 転換したのは約 3 年前。山﨑信博氏が社長 として店を継いで約 6 年経った 2008 年の
Executive chef Masaya Kitayama
ことだった。当時、十分儲かっていたにも関 わらず、 「自分が本当にやりたい店を実現した い」という強い信念に従って、大胆な改革を 敢行したのだ。席数は３分の２の 80 席にし、 高級感ある広々とした空間に改装。事前予約 制が導入され、名物だった行列は消えた。メ ニューの中心は、伝統的な会席コース（80 ド ル）や寿司会席コース（75 ドル）になり、平 均客単価は約 2 倍に跳ね上がった。 常連客からの反発は相当なものだった。こ れまで、気楽な服装でふらりと立ち寄ってい た店で、突然、ドレスコードや事前予約を求 められたのだ、当然のことだろう。悪い噂も 立ち、インターネットのレビューサイトでも酷 評された。リーマンショック後の経済不況も 直撃した。さらに不運なことに、東海岸一体 を歴史的な寒波が襲い、客足はぱったり途絶 （2 ４ページへ続く）
Green Tea Ice Cream Served over an Assortment of Mochi, Red Bean, and Flavored Jelly Cubes, topped with Dark Syrup
1. Average Price / 客単価 Lunch $25, Dinner $65
2. Monthly Sales / 月間売上平均 $200,000 / Month
3. Food Cost Percentage (%) フードコスト
35%
4. Alcoholic Beverage Sales Percentage (%) 売上に対するアルコール比率
20%
Soft Shell Crab Coal Tempura
5. Alcoholic Beverage Sales by Type アルコール売上高 ( 種類別 )
and kaiseki sushi course ($75), and the average customer spending jumped approximately two-fold. Backlash was considerable from repeat customers, accustomed until then to walk-in dressed in casual clothing, suddenly asked to adhere to a dress code and to make reservations in advance. Bad rumors started and bad reviews emerged on internet restaurant review sites, followed by the recession from the Lehman Shock. Furthermore, the entire East Coast was gripped by historic cold weather, and customer traffic came to a halt. “I believed in myself, so I stuck it out and survived it,” said owner Yamazaki, looking back. In the center stage of international politics populated by many government officials used to foreign travels, the restaurant insisted on serving authentic kaiseki and sushi courses. While pursuing authenticity on one hand, efforts were continued to add widely popular menu selections to invite a wider range of customers to stop by casually. These consistent efforts paid off, and a new customer base was obtained with more support from former repeat customers who grew accustomed to the new concept. “Sushi Taro” achieved “Number 1 in Washington, D.C.” in a different way from before. The appeal of this restaurant is their “Omakase” course, a high-end course served only to two groups of customers a day. Starring in the Counter next to owner and chef Nobuhiro Yamazaki is executive chef Masaya Kitayama. The omakase course, prepared from fresh ingredients purchased from the market
24
Japanese Restaurant News
with their individual touches added, consists of approximately 40 different food items. One chef prepares a course per couple, with chef Yamazaki and executive chef Kitayama sometimes creating very different cuisines respectively. Surprisingly, the chefs record each dish served to never serve the same dish to the same customer again, very thorough in their policies. Also, customers wishing to reserve a counter seat must directly email or call their chef of choice. This specialty treatment must be the secret to attract one customer after another. The various dishes introduced for this issue are served in the kaiseki course. The restaurant’s signature dish is “Goma Tofu, Sesame Seed Tofu,” followed by “Sweet Fish Mustard Vinegar Miso,” “Nigiri Sushi,” “Soft Shell Crab Coal Tempura,” and “Green Tea Ice Cream Served over an Assortment of Mochi, Red Bean, and Flavored Jelly Cubes, topped with Dark Syrup” for dessert. Each dish is so unique and breathtaking; the beautiful seasonal presentation is surprising to see in the U.S. “Just serving the food is boring. We serve authentic dishes, but use locally produced ingredients with a touch of playfulness,” said executive chef Masaya Kitayama. Ready-made food is hardly used with plenty of time allocated to food preparation to win over one customer at a time. Quality of food no different from Japan, served with pleasant surprises and moving experiences unique to this restaurant. “Sushi Taro” is a highly recommended restaurant for anyone to stop by when visiting Washington, D.C.!
えてしまったのだ。 「自分を信じて、何とか辛抱して乗りきっ た。」と山﨑社長は当時を振り返る。世界の 政治の中心地であり、海外慣れした政府関 係者の多い地域だからこそ、本格的な会席・ 寿司にこだわって作り続けた。正統派を追求 する一方で、柔軟に間口を広げ、より多くの 客に親しんでもらえるメニューを増やす工夫 も重ねた。そうした地道な努力が実を結び、 新しい客層を掴み、かつての常連客で新しい コンセプトに馴染んでくれた人も増えた。そ して『寿しＴａｒｏ』は、以前とは違う意味で の「ワシントン D.C. でナンバー 1」の名声を 獲得したのだ。 同店の醍醐味はカウンター席での「おまか せ」だ。1 日に 2 組しか客を取らない贅沢な 舞台で、山﨑社長と競演するのは北山勝也 料理長。市場から入る食材とそれぞれの感性 で創り出されるおまかせ料理は、品数にして 約 40 種類にも及ぶ。ひとりのシェフが一組 の客につく形式だが、山﨑社長と北山料理長 が全く違う料理を展開することも多いという。 驚いたことに、客に出した料理はすべて記録 し、同じ客に同じ料理は二度と出さないとい う徹底ぶり。また、客がカウンター席の予約 を取るには、ごひいきのシェフに直接メール か電話をすることになっている。この特別感 が次々と客を呼び寄せる秘訣なのだろう。 今回紹介してもらった料理は、会席コース に登場する品々。店のシグネチャー・ディッ シュの「胡麻豆腐」にはじまり、 「鮎の辛子酢 味噌」、 「寿司」、 「ソフトシェルクラブの黒天 ぷら」、デザートの「抹茶クリーム餡蜜」 。ど れも、出てきた瞬間にはっと息をのむような 斬新なプレゼンテーション、そして、とても アメリカで表現しているとは思えない美しい 季節感に驚かされる。 「ただ普通に出すだけ ではおもしろくない。正統派だが、地元の素 材を使った遊び心のある料理を心がけてい る」と北山料理長。既製品はほとんど使わず 仕込みにも十分手間暇をかけた料理で、ひと
N/A
6. Target Customer / 客層
Approximately 10% Japanese, a wide range of customers (embassy staff, White House staff, attorneys, lobbyists, senior government officials, Japanese-affiliated corporations, customers affiliated with Japanese culture and fans of Japanese cuisine).
7. Featured Menu / メニューの特徴 See article
8. Food Supplier / 仕入れ先
Mutual Trading, Daiei, Nishimoto Trading, Samuel & Son Seafood Co., True World Foods DC, LLC., Suzuki Farms, LLC., Yama Seafood, Inc.
9. Number of Staff / 従業員数 20
10. Number of Seats / 席数
80 seats (include bar and sushi bar)
11. Opening Date / 開店年月
Establishment of business / July 1986 Renewal open / March 2009
12. Varieties of Sake in Store
取り扱い日本酒の種類数、売れ筋
Approximately 25 brands, carefully selected with some unique brands not served at other restaurants; beer, wine, Japanese sake, wide range of shochu, and jizake selections, with few major brands. Original Japanese sake brand “Sushi Taro” (developed jointly with Kirin Brewery in Niigata Prefecture) sells well, along with the general brand “Kubota.”
りひとりの客と真剣勝負を繰り広げている。 日本と変わらないクオリティ、しかし、こ の 店 にしか な い 驚 きと 感 動。 ワシントン D.C. を訪れたら、ぜひ立ち寄りたい店だ。
2012 FOOD EVENT CALENDAR AUGUST NACS CAFÉ 8/19-22
Georgia World Congress Center Atlanta, Georgia www.nacsonline.com NACS CAFÉ is now offering its first educational class - the Certified Convenience Foodservice Manager (CCFM) program. This three day certification session is currently being conducted “on premise” at Georgia State University Hospitality Center at the Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, GA. The class is intended for experienced convenience store managers and multi-unit managers of stores with existing foodservice operations at some level. Class content focuses on foodservice systems, menu and product management, marketing opportunities, foodservice personnel management, fiscal management and controls, food safety systems, and management’s role in the growth of the foodservice segment. The class ends with a certification exam; certification is accredited by the Georgia State University School of Hospitality.
SEPTEMBER BioFach America 9/20-22
The Baltimore Convention Center. Baltimore, Maryland www.biofach-america.com All Things Organic delivers the largest organic buying audience in the United States. With a qualified audience of more than 20,000 industry members, your organic products will be seen, tasted, and tried by this huge audience of potential customers. BioFach America - All Things Organic delivers cutting edge organics finished products, raw materials, market intelligence and education that tradeshow and conference attendees won´t find anywhere else in North America.
Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show 9/22-24
Orange County Convention Center. Orlando, Florida www.flrestaurantandlodgingshow.com The Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show is the only comprehensive industry event devoted to the Southeast U.S. restaurant, foodservice and hospitality market. The Show will provide you with a strategic forum to demonstrate your food products, technology and equipment as well as discuss service solutions with current customers and new prospects. The Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show is sponsored by the Florida Restaurant & Lodging Association, and produced and managed by Reed Exhibitions, the global leader in trade show management.
Natural Products Expo East 9/20-22
Baltimore Convention Center Baltimore, Maryland www.expoeast.com Join the East Coast's Largest Natural, Organic, and Healthy Products Business Community. Natural Products Expo East education and events provide opportunities to learn and explore new ideas, industry trends and practical solutions to improve business practices and broaden industry knowledge, and to network with your industry peers.
Coffee Fest 2012 9/21-23
Washington State Convention Center www.coffeefest.com Coffee Fest has been serving the specialty coffee and gourmet tea industries since 1992. Viewed by most at the best trade show in America and around the world specifically for these involved with retailing coffee, tea and related products. Coffee Fest continues to evolve
and stay at the forefront of emerging trends. If it like coffee, smells like coffee, goes well with coffee or is coffee you will find it at Coffee Fest. Everything under the sun that world be found in an upscale coffee shop on either side of the counter, including the counter would be found on the exhibition floor at Coffee Fest. The best coffee retail education, training and workshop are found at Coffee Fest.
16th Americas Food and Beverage Show 9/24-25
Miami Beach Convention Center. Miami, Florida New Products Showcase- It features only new-to-market products, being a true benchmark of what is new and innovative in the food and beverage industry. International Pavilions- A unique opportunity to visit international pavilions and meet exhibitors from around the world, showcasing their finest products and services. Seminar Programs- Gain insights from industry experts on a range of topics that will generate profits and impact the way you do business. Don’t miss this outstanding line-up of world-class speakers talking about global trends, free-trade agreements, organizational success, efficiency, productivity and more.
OCTOBER 19th New York Mutual Trading Japanese Food & Restaurant Show 10/6
Metropolitan Pavilion New York, NY www.nymtc.com This year, will be focusing new trends of Japanese cuisine with a slogan of "Spotting the Trends in Japanese Cuisine: Exploring New - "Ingredients" "Seasonings" & "Recipes". Approximately 75 suppliers to represent their products. Also have plans to have a knife etching and conditioning service by Tsukiji Masamoto. He is widely considered the most popular knife master in Japan. They have several other exciting plans including premium sake, shochu, and handcrafted beer tastings from breweries from all over Japan.
InterBev 2012 10/16 -18
Sands Expo & Convention Center Las Vegas. Nevada InterBev is the premier beverage event in North America featuring 250 exhibitors and 2,500 attendees. InterBev, a biennial event held in the even years, brings together the beverage industry for business to business interaction on the trade show floor, relevant education sessions and exciting key-note speakers presenting important beverage-related topics. InterBev provides one place to access the entire beverage market – from ingredients to processing equipment, packaging and finished beverages. Representatives in attendance include bottlers, distributors and producers of soft drinks, bottled water, juice and juice drinks, tea, milk, sports drinks, beer, wine and distilled spirits. Attendees include beverage company owners and CEOs, plant operators and managers, packaging and processing engineers, sales and marketing executives, warehousing managers, distribution managers and more.
Fresh Summit 10/26-28
Anaheim Convention Center Anaheim, California www.freshsummit.com The business landscape continues to shift in ways that few could expect and faster than anyone could fully anticipate. That's why PMA's Fresh Summit International Convention & Exposition is the must attend event for you and your colleagues. It is a dynamic platform that connects you to your community and keeps you up to speed with the changing consumer and a changing global supply chain. As the association representing the fresh fruit and vegetable industry, PMA's connections reach across the supply chain and around the world, helping Fresh Summit attract the best of today's decision-makers, and tomorrow's game changers. With more than 18,500 people participating, Fresh Summit can help you anticipate change, identify emerging trends, and profit from new opportunities.
NOVEMBER 13th Japanese Food Festival 11/4
NACS SHOW 10/7-10
Las Vegas, Nevada www.nacsonline.com Drawing more than 22,000 attendees and 1,300 exhibitors, the NACS Show rotates between three cities: Las Vegas, Chicago and Atlanta. The event also features nearly 50 educational sessions and general sessions. Hear new ideas on how to improve your business strategy from industry leaders and influential speakers who can give you. This year’s Opening General Session speaker is acclaimed global thought leader Peter Sheahan. Join us on October 9 for an exclusive look at “Ideas 2 Go,” a video tour and insider’s look at how retailers across the country are increasing their competitive advantage. NACS Show educational sessions cover every aspect of the highly competitive, multi-billion dollar convenience and fuel retailing industry. From business strategy and market analysis to specific information for specialized areas within your operation, access the expertise and insights available only at the NACS Show.
24th Mutual Trading Japanese Restaurant Show / West Coast 10/13
Pasadena Convention Center Pasadena, California www.mtcla.com
Double Tree by Hilton www.jraamerica.com The one of the greatest Japanese food festival in United States. Sushi, Ramen noodles, Japanese beers, Japanese sake, Shochu, and other.
INTERNATIONAL HOTEL/MOTEL & RESTAURANT SHOW 11/10-13
Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. New York A full day conference where visionaries from the lodging industry and beyond address the forces that will shape the future of your business. Every year, the IHMRS offers more than 40 free educational seminars covering the most relevant and timely topics for the industry. Sessions cover a wide range of topics, from design, technology, human resourses, operations, catering, security and personal and professional development, as well as numerous programs created for the lodging professional. Held each year in conjunction with the International Hotel/Motel & Restaurant Show, the American Hotel & Lodging Association (AH&LA) Fall Conference brings the federation leadership to New York City for a busy and informative schedule. Delegates attend committee meetings, the AH&LA Issues Forum, and the AH&LA Board of Directors meeting, as well as social functions.
Business owners and trade professionals Japanese restaurant show. Japanese sake, Beer, Shochu, Japanese tea, Japanese chinaware fair and others.
September 2012 • Vol. 22 • No.166
25
FOOD HISTORY
Noritoshi Kanai
Chapter 73
1923 Born in Tokyo. 1949 Graduated Hitotsubashi University. 1951 Accession to the President of Tokyo Mutual Trading Company, Inc. 1964 Moved to United States with his family. Accession to the President of Mutual Trading Company Inc. in Los Angeles. Kanai’s Biography, “The Frontal Assault Concept” was published. 2011 Chairman of Mutual Trading Company Inc. in Los Angeles
Again, a new beginning from here forward 再び、ここから始まる
M
illing devices don’t need to be extensive. However, upon operation, advanced techniques are required. A milling machine was installed at a factory in Walnut City east of Los Angeles and operations repeated to produce sample soba (buckwheat) noodles, which Kanai took on his business trips to Japan. Kanai
製なものを必要としない。
粉のための装置は、それほど大がかり
ただ、実際の運転には、高度な技術が求 められる。ロサンゼルスの東にあるウォルナッ ト市の工場に製粉機を設備して試運転を繰り 返し、出来上がったそば粉のサンプルは、金 井が日本への出張のたびに携行した。有名な 日本そば専門店を訪ねて、出来栄えを鑑定し てもらい、製粉に関してのアドバイスを授か
visited renowned soba specialty restaurants to get feedback on his soba noodles and received advice about milling. Kanai was blessed. Authentic soba noodles made from 80 percent soba and 20 percent binding agent were enhanced to the level of being prepared from scratch. At the end of 1994, the adjustment of milling device was complete, and
るためである。 それと同時に、金井は名人達から直々に、 そば打ちの手ほどきを受けた。年令の割には 体力に恵まれているせいだろう、そば粉が八 割でつなぎが二割の本格的な、そばもどうに か手打ちで出来るところまで腕を上げた。 こうして１９９４年の年末には、製粉機の 調整もほぼ終わり、満足できるそば粉が作れ るめどがついた。
the prospect to produce satisfying soba noodles was in sight. Every fall, shelled soba harvested in North Dakota is stored in the refrigerator by Mutual Trading to avoid a decrease in quality, to be milled at a factory directly managed according to demand. This is done to get as close to the “freshly milled” quality as possible. Raw soba flour sealed 100 percent in aluminum bags are sold in two different kinds: the commercial “Cold Mountain” brand (for restaurants), and another for general consumption (supermarkets). New products are not limited to raw soba noodles. Freshly milled soba noodles are provided to the noodle factory in Pasadena to process as raw or frozen soba noodles, and then distributed to restaurants and supermarkets. Mutual Trading Also became a sole import agent for small noodle-making robots. These robots made in Japan are
similar in size to mid-sized home refrigerators and produces soba noodles comparable to those made by experienced soba chefs in approximately 20 seconds per serving. Implementing this robot makes opening an authentic handmade soba noodle shop possible without hiring a soba chef. A section was setup inside the company to support implementation of soba menus for new restaurants or existing restaurants, technical support, or business consulting, an existing specialty soba course, “Customer Service Office to support restaurant prosperity” (free). However, Mutual Trading is not necessarily bidding the company’s future on Japanese soba noodles. Compared to the time when sushi was the strategic product, Mutual Trading as a corporation has gained strength and developed close relationships with major food manufacturers.
毎年秋に収穫されるノースダコタの玄そばを、 共同貿易は冷蔵倉庫に保管して品質の低下を 防ぎ、需要に応じて直営工場で製粉する。な るべく「ひきたて」に近づけるためである。 アルミ袋に密封した１００パーセントの純そば 粉は、 「コールドマウンテン」ブランドで業務 用（レストラン向け）と家庭用（食品マーケッ ト用）の 2 種類に販売する。 新商品は、純そば粉だけには限らない。ひ きたてのそば粉をパサデナの製麺工場に提 供して、生そばと冷凍そばに加工し、やはり レストランとマーケットの両方に卸す。 小型製麺ロボットの輸入総代理店にもなっ た。その日本製ロボットは家庭用中型冷蔵庫 ほどの大きさだが、熟練の職人が打ったもの に匹敵するそばを、わずか２０秒ほどで 1 人
前を作り出す。これを導入すれば、そば打ち 職人を雇わなくても、本格的な手打ち風日本 そば屋を開店することが出来る。 そば屋の新規開店、既存レストランのそば メニュー導入などについて、技術指導や経営 相談に応じるセクションも社内に設けた。 以前からある「レストラン繁盛（無料）相 談室」の、そば専門コースである。 ただ、共同貿易が日本そばに社運を賭けて いるというわけではない。 すしを戦略商品として打ち出したころに比 べれば、共同貿易は企業としての体力を十分 に備えているし、有力な食品メーカーとの連 携も緊密になっている。
Mutual Trading Japanese Food & Restaurant Expo
Hocho Service Center
Presents: Hocho Master Hirano From Tsukiji Masamoto Up to 30% Super Savings on Masamoto Knives and Toishi Whetstones Complimentary Personalized Engraving with Purchase
New York Sat Oct 6th 10AM - 5PM @ Metropolitan Pavilion www.nymtc.com
平野社長
26
Japanese Restaurant News
Los Angeles Sat Oct 13th 9AM - 4PM
@ Pasadena Convention Center www.lamtc.com
Mutual Trading Co., INC 共同貿易株式会社
JAPANESE RESTAURANT RESTAURANT NEWS NEWS JAPANESE
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May • Vol. 20, No.138
JAPANESE RESTAURANT NEWS