ASBMAG#83 by ASBMAG

Australian Surf Business Magazine July

2018

ASBMAG.COM AUS $6.95 (INCLUDING GST)

FEATURE ARTICLES: The Dark Side of Denim – How to become a stocktake ninja & take back control of your inventory Buyers’ Guide – Eyewear / Watches + Bags / Denim + Shirts

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CONTENTS

ISSUE #83 JULY

inside this issue

contents 10

Industry News

Take Stock and Stock Take

Media Meter

Fresh

Like a decaffeinated 24-hour Monday, stock takes are dreaded by everyone from top management on down to the new intern. Whether you like it or not, at some point you have to stop and count your inventory. To assist us how to become Stock Take Ninjas, ASB tapped the deep well of knowledge accumulated over the years by author Greg Gorter of Ocean Road Agencies and Osipos for this issue.

Buyers’ Guide

Feature Article

ActionWatch OZ Insights

We’ve undertaken our own stock take here at ASBMAG too, and it’s been one of the toughest yet. In FY18 we gave away 18,000 copies of ASBMAG for free to every surf shop in Australia and to our friends in New Zealand and Indonesia. We need to correct the balance sheet and we’re asking you to get onboard between now and December 2018 and join us by subscribing to our print and digital editions (or both). Our target is 1000 subscribers and to encourage you to subscribe, we’re giving away a $6000 trip for two to stay at the magnificent Aganoa Lodge in Samoa (see details a little further in).

EYEWEAR

WATCHES + BAGS

Inside this issue, we’ve taken a deep dive into the ‘Dark Side of Denim’ with Bryan Dickerson. Denim is a huge business. Globally it accounted for more than $100 billion in sales in 2017. In Australia, ActionWatch estimates the total surf denim market was $12 million in 2017. Participating retailers on our ActionWatch panel moved an estimated 114,570 units of denim and turned over $18K on denim which accounts for 8.5% of all men’s and women’s apparel sales.

DENIM + SHIRTS

'THE DARK SIDE OF DENIM'

But denim is dirty. And many brands don’t know what to do about it. Most surf companies have a position on sustainable sourcing and their supply chain because it’s bragging rights in an industry that prides itself on being green. But the production of a simple pair of jeans is confusing, complicated and fraught with human and environmental wreckage. Have you seen the movie adaptation of Tim Winton’s acclaimed novel ‘Breath’ yet? Brian WalkerThe Retail Doctor has. Brian was so inspired he’s written ‘Building Your Story in Surf Retail’. Why is some surf retail a reflection of what it is to be a surfer, and some just racks of product? Brian shares why there’s a growing need to be a storyteller in retail and why surf retail matters.

Feature Article HOW TO BECOME A STOCKTAKE NINJA & TAKE BACK CONTROL OF YOUR INVENTORY

Talking Shop

Faces in the Lineup

We hope you enjoy this issue of ASBMAG. And please, as Autumn range showings have begun around the country, spare a little extra time (and a little extra coin) for our supporting advertisers.

BUILDING YOUR STORY IN SURF RETAIL

Kick back and grab a quiet corner of the store and enjoy.

Keith Curtain Publisher

PUBLISHER ASB is published six times a year by Australian Surf Business Pty Ltd ABN 38 109 415 983

AUSTRALIAN SURF BUSINESS PTY LTD PO Box 747 Torquay VIC 3228 Australia Phone/fax 03 5568 3488. Mobile 0417 747 855. Email info@australiansurf.biz

CREATIVE

If you have any comments to make about ASB, or any aspect of the surfing industry, drop us a line: editorial@australiansurf.biz

fluid.com.au studio@fluid.com.au

ACCOUNTING & FINANCE Montgomery Carey & Associates www.mcaaccounting.com.au ACTING EDITOR editorial@australiansurf.biz ADVERTISING Keith Curtain 0417 747 855 sales@australiansurf.biz

#36 'The Dark Side of Denim'. ASB investigates The State of Denim in the Surf Industry. ON THE COVER Volcom Ambassador CoCo Ho helps further push Volcom's credentials in denim with the launch of #VolcomForEverybody global sizing campaign.

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EDITORIAL PLATFORM Australian Surf Business (ASB) magazine objectively reports on all aspects of the Australasian surf market. ASB is committed to editorial excellence and provides the only one-stop forum for the entire Australasian surf industry. Views expressed in ASB do not necessarily represent the opinions of the editors or publishers. No responsibility is accepted by ASB for the accuracy of advertisements or information within the publication.

ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT Australasian Surf Business Magazine is printed using ECO-CLEAN print processes. We use vegetable based inks and recyclable metal plates during the printing process. ASB is printed on FSC® accredited stock.

QLD & NZ GREG SCOTT +61 (0) 407 577 997 sales@australiansurf.biz

Our printer is accredited for ISO9001, ISO14001, AS/NZS 4801 and is an FSC® certified printer ensuring that we uphold the highest international standards for the prevention of pollution and promotion of a clean environment. No animals were harmed during the production of ASB.

FASHION CO-ORDINATOR Fiona Hampson fashion@australiansurf.biz

SOCIAL MEDIA

SUB EDITOR Jock Serong Bryan Dickerson

https://www.instagram.com/australiansurfbusiness/ https://www.linkedin.com/in/keith-curtain https://twitter.com/asbmagazine https://www.facebook.com/asbmag2004/

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Boardriders Group goes to Burleigh, national distribution to Geelong.

brand news BOARDRIDERS GROUP GOES TO BURLEIGH, NATIONAL DISTRIBUTION TO GEELONG Boardriders announced important changes in the location and corporate presence of Boardriders Group Australia. The changes will see Boardriders move its national headquarters from Torquay to Burleigh Heads and expand its distribution center in Geelong. In recognition of the heritage of both its Quiksilver and Billabong brands, Boardriders Group Australia announced that it has decided to maintain presences both in Burleigh Heads, Queensland, and Torquay, Victoria. The Company also announced that its primary distribution center will be located in Geelong, Victoria. After a thorough review of its operations, and significant discussions with Australian state government authorities, the Company chose Geelong, Victoria, as its main distribution center in Australia. The expanded facility in Geelong will support the full portfolio of brands following the combination of Boardriders and Billabong. As part of the expansion of Geelong, the Company will close its distribution facility in Helensvale, Queensland in mid-2019 which is anticipated to affect up to 55 jobs. The exact number of jobs to be located in Geelong has not yet been finalized and depends on the outcome of ongoing support discussions with the Victorian Government. Greg Healy, Global President and President APAC of Boardriders Inc., said: “I am pleased that we were able to maintain our footprint in locations that were important to the heritage and history of both companies and we are very excited to grow our operations in Geelong as we service all of our brands from one centralized location. We are thankful to the employees in Helensvale for their dedication and hard work.”

VISSLA LAUNCHES SISSTR WOMEN’S SURF BRAND Stokehouse Unlimited, parent company to Vissla, Amuse Society and D’Blanc will launch a new women’s line with Australia set to be the first global release destination for Sisstrevolution: a modern surf brand for the new generation of female surfers. Showings will begin in September with a small hi-summer capsule collection delivered in December.

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The SISSTR team includes Marketing Director Gina Turpel, VP of Product Development Lydia Ballesteros, Stokehouse VP of Administration Karen Sarver, Design Director Kristy Michaels and Sisstrevolution Designer Patricia Gianessi. The Sisstrevolution brand ethos will be expressed by aligning with a band of SISSTR surfers, creators, free spirits and adventure seekers. The brand name unmistakably feminine also evokes a feeling of empowerment, harmony and forward movement. “For some time now, we have been asked to develop a women’s line with similar pillars to that of Vissla, so (SISSTR) is in response to that demand,” said Stokehouse Australia GM, John Mossop. “We’ve spent a fair bit of time globally looking into the women’s market and we feel the product offer hasn’t evolved in line with the tremendous advances in performance and participation.” Paul Naude Founder and CEO of Stokehouse Unlimited said, “Girls collectively around the world have developed for themselves a strong female surf culture both in and out of the water. What’s happening in women’s performance surfing and free surfing is amazing and we are excited about the opportunity to be a part of this growing movement.” Recognizing the swell of talent that has surfaced in women’s competitive surfing the brand plans to sign a WCT title contender in 2019 (John Mossop noted it’s too soon for any commentary on the signings.) However, SISSTR has made its intentions clear that it want a presence on the WSL. The premiere Sisstr collection is composed of swim, apparel, accessories and wetsuits and will debut to buyers globally in September. The design is vibrant, young, real, modern and functional catering to surfers, beach lovers and eco-conscious female consumers in the 12 to 25-year-old demographic. Commenting on the segmentation between its two women’s lines, Mossop added, “Sisstrevolution will be 100% core surf so while there is some moderate crossover with Amuse in terms of distribution, there won’t be in terms of product.” “Amuse will remain much more fashionfocused – and there is a place for that in surf – while Sisstrevolution will be more surf focused in both product offering and pricing.” The brand market launch will be in late October as co-sponsor with Vissla’s ISA World Junior Championships, followed by the full collection release in December for the Australian market, and in February for North America and rest of the world.

Surf Lakes construction entering final phase.

SALT & STONE TO ONBOARD Sunscreen and skin care specialist Salt & Stone have announced an exclusive distribution partnership in Australia with Onboard Industries. Salt & Stone was created by ex-professional snowboarder, Nima Jalali who was no stranger to being exposed to extreme and harsh conditions and set out to create a better all-natural sun and skin care line to help protect. “We are very excited to launch our brand in Australia and introduce our collection of plant based, natural sunscreens and skin care. We are proud to launch our brand with some of the most talented Australian surfers as part of our crew. Craig Anderson, Dion Agius, Oscar Langburne and John Respondek as our staff photographer,” said founder Nima Jalali. “Our launch in the USA less than a year ago has resulted in some very fast growth into some of the best surf shops in the America as well as some of the best skin care stores and hotels like The Ritz-Carlton, The Line Hotel, Ace Hotel and many more. We couldn’t be happier with partnering with Onboard as they have a great history as one of the best distributors in Australia and we feel Salt & Stone aligns perfectly with them,” said Jalali. Salt & Stone is a natural skin care line based out of Los Angeles, California with a strong focus on natural, organic, and antioxidant rich ingredients, the result is a superior collection of products that optimize your body and enhance your daily journey. More information http://www.onboardindustries.com.au

SURF LAKES CONSTRUCTION ENTERING FINAL PHASE Surf Lakes International has entered the final phase of construction of Australia’s first full scale surfing wave pool. When in full operation, a Surf Lakes commercial lake will be capable of producing potentially up to 2400 waves per hour with waves of up to 2.4 metres. The lake and reef shaping has been completed and all will be sealed by end of July. Most of the machinery and equipment has arrived on site and installation of the central wave machine, that will be used to generate large concentric waves. The site is located near Yeppoon in QLD, Australia. The waves are delivered across four reefs, each with a left and a right breaking wave. Each wave will be shaped differently, thus creating multiple sized and types of waves simultaneously. Surf Lakes has produced a new artists impression of what a typical commercial Surf Lake might look like. However, the site

in Yeppoon will not contain any buildings or infrastructure as it will initially be used as a demonstration site to prove and refine the technology while showing the tech to potential licensees, media and shareholders. CEO and Founder of Surf Lakes, Aaron Trevis, is thrilled at the prospect of potentially having waves breaking within months, and he is eagerly anticipating viewing brand ambassadors and former world champions Mark Occhilupo and Barton Lynch taking on those first few waves. “I just can’t wait to see Occy standing in a barrel,” said Trevis. “As we see the parts of the wave machine arriving onsite, the reality and sheer enormity of the project is truly mind-blowing!” Occy recently joined CEO Aaron Trevis and Director Reuben Buchanan onsite to view the progress. See the video of the visit via the link below: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?time_continue=4&v=CTL07Ub_ZFs

“It’s just so enormous,” said Occhilupo as he surveyed the site. “I can really feel the adrenaline starting to pump! I just better make that first drop!” This first site will not be open to the public and will be used as a demonstration lake for potential licensees from around the globe. Already there has been interest from countries/regions such as USA, Vietnam, Fiji, Portugal, Middle East, Europe, Brazil and also from within Australia.

WA GOVERNMENT EXTENDS REBATE SCHEME FOR SHARK SHIELD The WA Fisheries Minister Dave Kelly will offer subsidies for a shark deterrent device for surfers after the NSW Government released research into its effectiveness. Mr. Kelly confirmed that he would extend the State Government’s rebate scheme for personal shark deterrents to include the surfing-specific product Surf+, manufactured by Perth company Shark Shield. The rebate is good news for Ocean Guardian Holdings Limited (Ocean Guardian) the parent company behind Shark Shield who launched its initial public offering (IPO) last month. Under the IPO, Ocean Guardian is seeking to raise up to $5,000,000 (before costs) issuing 25,000,000 new Shares at an offer orice of $0.20 per share (offer), with an oversubscription to raise up to a total of $6,000,000.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Maddog shuts PSM for good.

WSL responds to viral photo showing unequal pay in surfing.

Controversially, the commitment came just hours after Mr. Kelly had threatened to withhold funding for the device unless NSW released a report into its effectiveness, despite describing it as “very effective.”

With more than three-quarters of the boosted allocation spent, Mr. Kelly said there was room in the budget for further rounds after the inclusion of $1.6 million over four years for “shark mitigation.”

association news

"In Australia, the prize money at a junior event is $2,500 for women and $5,000 for men. In the men's field we have 64 surfers and in the women's field we have 24."

The NSW Government said that it would bring forward the release of the report prompting Mr. Kelly’s decision. He denied he was playing politics with people’s lives, or that his comments had anything to do with NSW’s offer last week to lend WA several smart drum lines.

Shadow tourism minister Libby Mettam said Mr. Kelly had been caught out playing the “worst kind of politics.”

WSL RESPONDS TO VIRAL PHOTO SHOWING UNEQUAL PAY IN SURFING

“This is a complete diversionary tactic to draw attention away from the fact that this Government does not have a comprehensive strategy that will give the broadest possible protection against shark attack at our beaches,” Ms. Mettam said.

A junior surfing competition in South Africa attracted a media maelstrom after a podium photo showing the best female won half as much as the male champ. Zoe Steyn won ZAR4000 (AUD$400), while Rio Waida, the male winner, surfed his way to ZAR8000 (AUD$800) at the Billabong Pro Junior series in Ballito, South Africa. The post was shared thousands of times, with comments such as:

The solutions to this would be to either just scrap the ratio system that leads to female winners competing for less, or to increase the number of female surfers to match that of the men.

The new research undertaken in late 2017 and early 2018, was led by Associate Professor Charlie Huveneers of Flinders University, and was commissioned by the NSW Department of Primary Industries. The findings from Flinders include: • Ocean Guardian’s shark deterrent for surfers was proven as the only device to significantly reduce risk. • The research resulted in 297 successful trials undertaken at the Neptune Islands South Australia. During these trials, 44 different white sharks (Carcharodon carcharias) interacted with bait and undertook 1,413 passes of the test board(s). • The FREEDOM+ Surf significantly affected shark behaviour by reducing the percentage of bait taken from 96% (for the control board) to 40% with sharks remaining further away from the bait when the FREEDOM+ Surf was active. • All other shark deterrents tested failed. The other deterrents tested included Rpela, SharkBanz bracelet, SharkBanz (Modom) surf leash, and Chillax Wax which had limited to no effects on deterring white sharks. The rebate decision means the Shark Shield will be the second accredited under the WA Government’s scheme to attract a subsidy when it becomes eligible. “We want to make this device available to surfers today – all that needs to happen is the NSW minister needs to release that report,” Mr. Kelly said. “We believe this device will save lives.” A draft report funded by NSW and carried out by Flinders University found the device reduced the risk of shark attack by 60 per cent. Under the WA Government’s scheme, which was doubled to $400,000 last year after strong demand, products that met mandated standards could get a $200 rebate. But surfers had argued the scheme was inadequate because the only eligible device, Shark Shield’s Freedom 7, was designed for divers.

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“Offering a subsidy on a commercial device does not address the public safety concerns and it will do nothing to address tourism impacts of shark activity in WA.”

MADDOG PSM SHUTS FOR GOOD PSM (Professional Surfboard Manufacturing) in Byron Bay has closed its doors for the very last time. PSM was home to iconic labels such as the original Maddog, T&C as well as Mark Richards Surfboards. “It's sad to see this group of extremely talented craftsman breaking up,” said Mark Richards. “Over the years the quality of work they have put into finishing my boards has been outstanding and I can't thank them enough.” In 2016, Maddog, the iconic surfing label started by John Morgan and shaper Mark Plater, closed down its retail store after 40 years. Changes in the surfing business led to the decision to wind up Maddog but also at play was the original thinking that got the pair into the business. “Over the years we have had amazing support from the people of Byron and one of the things we are most proud about is how many people we have employed during the 40 years,” John Morgan told local news. "It’s just been great to provide employment to so many people in such a cool industry."

"Did the girls surf a different ocean that was easier we don't know about?" "This is ridiculous. It is not 1918, it is 2018. The competition organisers should be deeply ashamed of themselves. What are we teaching our girls through this sort of archaic discrimination?” Responding to the outrage WSL Australia/ Oceania Regional Manager Will HaydenSmith told ABC’s ‘The Hack,’ “Men get double the money, because there are double the competitors. On first glance it does look like a huge disparity. It highlights an issue, but it's a very complicated one." The WSL argument comes down to the concept of prize-money-per-surfer, which it says shows the equality of pay between male and female competitors. It works like this: say there are 10 surfers competing for a total pot of $100 in prize money. That works out to a ratio of $10-per-surfer. The winner gets $50, and the runners up get the rest. Now say there is a female competition of five surfers. At the same ratio of $10-per-surfer, the total prize money is $50. The winner gets only $25. That was the case at the Ballito Pro, the WSL said. There were twice as many male surfers as female ones, 36 compared to 18. To keep the same money-per-surfer ratio for men and women the prize money for the female winner had to be half as much as the men. "Men get double the prize money only because there are double the competitors," Hayden-Smith continued. The same thing happens at Australian junior surfing events.

The WSL said that neither were options right now. "The demand is simply not there," added Hayden-Smith. "We usually have a waiting list of about four surfers to get into the women's competition. On the men's side we have about 30-40 on the waiting list. If the demand was there on the women's side we would expand the draws." Critics have argued that one way of increasing the popularity of women's surfing could be to increase the amount of prize money. Hayden-Smith acknowledged that, whatever the reason for the difference in prize money, the Ballito Pro photo circulating online could be a bad look for the sport. He said female surfers also struggled more than male surfers to get sponsored. "That's one reason we charge less entry fees," he said. "At the QS 6,000 pro surf event in Manly in March, the entry fee for the men was US$250 and for women US$150. This was just because we felt that if we charge the same entry fee that would prohibit women from competing." He said surfing had been running a women's championship tour for four decades and had done a better job of equal pay than other sports. Two years ago, ABC reported that an entire women's AFL team cost less than a single average male player - most female players were earning about $5,000 a year, while the average male AFL footballer was taking home about $300,000. Hayden-Smith pointed out that the current World Champion, Tyler Wright, earned hundreds of thousands of dollars a year. and in 2016, she earned more than the top male surfer, "We do want to note the fact we have done a lot of things right at the championship level," he said. A WSL statement went further, saying, “In recent years, the organization has instituted pay parity at the Championship Tour level and we are in the process of instituting across other disciplines. As we continue to steward and enhance professional surfing worldwide, our focus will be on elevating the development tiers in this area.”

WE STAND WITH GRASSROOTS ACTIVISTS All around Australia, in community halls and bowling clubs and around kitchen tables small groups of concerned locals meet regularly to discuss ways of protecting beaches, clean ocean, coastal amenity and wilderness. They’re people willing to stand up for their local coast, often against large, zealous commercial interests. Patagonia stands with these grassroots activists. Since 1985, we’ve given 1% of sales to grassroots environmental groups working to preserve and restore the natural world. As of summer 2017, that amounts to some $89 million in cash and in-kind services, and instead of giving large sums to a handful of causes we give modest grants—up to $25,000 each—to small groups every year for whom this money makes a world of difference. In Australia, that money goes to groups like the Bob Brown Foundation, fighting to preserve the Tarkine coast, and the South West Marine Debris Cleanup which boats in and removes rubbish from the beaches of Tasmania’s inaccessible South West Wilderness.

patagonia.com.au

INDUSTRY NEWS

Greg Long joins Otis Eyewear.

“The issue raised with regards to the Billabong Ballito Pro Junior stemmed from a pay parity execution based on original 32-man and 16-woman fields. However, withdrawals from the men's event left a 24-man field (withdrawals saw only 14 ultimately compete on the women's side) and a subsequent pay disparity between the two events.” “This is an important topic to us. Our sport features amazing women athletes who compete alongside their male counterparts. We are committed to providing a platform for the best surfers in the world, regardless of gender, and recognize that prizing is an important factor in creating that platform.” Will Hayden-Smith concluded: "We do acknowledge there's room for improvement."

ISA WELCOMES SUP SUPPORT The International Surfing Association (ISA) welcomed the support of the Association of PaddleBoard Professionals (APP) and the elite, professional athletes of Stand Up Paddle (SUP), after they jointly released a statement recognizing the ISA as the sole world governing body for the sport. The strong messages of support reaffirm the APP's unique relationship with the ISA, and signals how elite SUP athletes are aligned with the spirit and values of surfing and surf sports. The declaration once again emphasizes the ISA's historic involvement and investment in Stand Up Paddle and further reinforces the international federation as the rightful, and natural, global governing body for SUP. Responding to the APP and SUP athlete statements, ISA President Fernando Aguerre, said, “We are proud that the world's best SUP athletes continue to support us as the sole governing body of Stand Up Paddle, and we are excited to see the passion for the sport.” "Ultimately, it is the athletes who are the heart of the sport and we are delighted they continue to recognize the work we have done to develop SUP around the world. For more than a decade we have worked for their benefit, and I am proud of the great partnership we have with the APP to enable SUP to flourish for many more years.” "The APP World Tour has grown into a truly incredible event series and I am excited by what the future holds for it. By taking the sport of SUP to the likes of London and New York, we are showing that surf sports can take place anywhere in the world, and are continuing to engage new, inner city fans and open up new markets. This is an exciting time for Stand Up Paddle and the ISA is proud to have worked so hard, and for so long, to grow the sport to this point."

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Parko hangs up his jersey at J-Bay.

LOCALSEARCH AND SURFING AUSTRALIA CONNECT Localsearch and Surfing Australia have joined forces in a partnership that will see the country’s largest independent and Australian owned search company take naming rights of an important stepping stone in Surfing Australia’s pathway to the podium. The Localsearch Talent ID Program, as part of Surfing Australia’s HighPerformance Program, will be comprised of nine camps including the Layne Beachley Camp, Mark Richards Camp, two Woolworths camps (boys and girls), three Talent ID camps and two International Development Camps (boys and girls). “Supporting the community has always been part of what we do,” said Localsearch CEO Daniel Stoten. “We’ve been helping hundreds of local community groups, junior sporting clubs and charities all over Australia for years, and we’re proud to be part of this exciting journey with Surfing Australia.” Localsearch Head of Marketing, Adam Boote, says they jumped at the chance to get involved. “Many of our values at Localsearch align with what Surfing Australia is about – helping people get more involved in the things they love – so a partnership with Surfing Australia seemed like the natural next step.” Localsearch branding will also be highly visible across Surfing Australia’s media channels, including the Surfing Australia website, the mySURF.tv website, social media channels and at the Surfing Australia High Performance Centre (HPC). Surfing Australia CEO Andrew Stark commented on the new partnership saying, “We are very pleased to be partnering with Localsearch, particularly on our Talent ID program. Localsearch will help elevate the program status to new heights and we very much look forward to working with them over the next year.” Localsearch will also activate as a support sponsor of the nudie Australian Boardriders Battle National Final. This includes the opportunity for a site activation at the National Final and branding at all eight state qualifying rounds. For more information, visit business.localsearch.com.au

team news PARKO HANGS UP HIS JERSEY AT J-BAY Joel Parkinson has achieved just about everything you could want to in surfing, and after 20 years as one of surfing’s all-time greats, ‘Parko’ announced his retirement at J-Bay – the place where he nabbed his first CT win as an 18-year-old wildcard back in 1999.

Stephanie Gilmore, said she was stoked to be on board and loved using 2XP SPF50+ the surf-specific sunscreen on a daily basis. Callaghan said, "I’m so excited and grateful for the opportunity to be involved with a company from the very beginning. Being able to give feedback and help improve on an already quality product I use everyday is going to be fun. Looking forward to great times ahead with 2XP.” Con Gendis, Heritage Brands Managing Director said he was thrilled to have created 2XP in partnership with Surfing Australia and to welcome Macy to the HB family.

The 2012 World Champ, a three-time Triple Crown winner, Pipe Master, Style Master, Joel’s competitive record is only eclipsed by his enviable style. He’s secured 20-plus years in the game, 12 tour wins, four runner-up placings and one hard-fought world title.

“Through our unique partnership with Surfing Australia, Heritage Brands have developed 2XP, our elemental protection range that meets the needs of elite athletes who train and compete in the harshest conditions.”

Send your congrats to @joelparko

2XP will also be highly visible on Surfing Australia’s digital platforms and the Surfing Australia High-Performance Centre (HPC) where it will be available to everyone from recreational camp participants to Australian Surfing team members.

GREG LONG JOINS OTIS EYEWEAR Otis Eyewear announced that Greg Long, one of the most decorated big-wave surfers of the modern era, champion of oceanprotection and environmental stewardship has joined the brand as an ambassador, mentor and friend. With operations in Australia, California, New Zealand and Indonesia, Otis is expanding in international markets and is delighted to have Greg join the group to share the next phase of the compay’s development and brand journey. Otis Eyewear CEO Nathan Omodei commented, “Our relationship with Greg is low-key and very much based on respect for mutual objectives and values. Of course, we admire Greg’s surfing achievements, but more than that, we admire the values Greg embodies in his broader ambassadorial role in the surfing world. He stands for the things Otis also stands for.” Greg has already spent time with the Otis design and sales teams in their offices in both California and Western Australia and is already involved with future projects.

MACY CALLAGHAN AND 2XP SUNSCREEN JOIN FORCES Heritage Brands are excited to announce that emerging World Surf League (WSL) star Macy Callaghan has come on board as an ambassador for their elemental protection brand, 2XP. The former WSL World Junior Women’s champion, who has already made headlines in 2018 after her heroics as a wildcard at the Quiksilver Pro on the Gold Coast where she took down six-time World Champion

OWEN WRIGHT JOINS THE DHD TEAM DHD recently partnered with crowdfunding experts Equitise in order to raise capital for manufacturing, expansion in foreign markets and marketing firepower. Today, the company announced it has signed current World Championship Tour #9 Owen Wright to the DHD family. According to a statement, Owen was looking for something different in his boards and after a couple of months of testing with Darren Handley he took the next step and competed on DHD equipment in the WSL Championship Tour events at Uluwatu and Keramas. Owen Wright grew up in Culburra, New South Wales, Australia, as the second of five kids who all surf. His sister Tyler is a twotime World Champion, while little brother Mikey is making noise on the Qualifying Series and as a wildcard on the WSL 2018 Championship Tour. In 2015, Wright suffered a traumatic brain injury during a warm-up session at Pipeline where he was still mathematically in contention for the world title. The incident proved life threatening, and for a time it looked like Wright’s career was over. He sat out the entire 2016 season, learning how to surf all over again. His eventual return to competition in 2017 is now the stuff of legend, as Wright won the season opener at Quiksilver Pro at Snapper Rocks during one of the most emotionally charged comebacks in history. He finished the season No. 6 on the Jeep Leaderboard.

Wilson Retail officially acquires Red Herring.

Commenting on the addition Darren Handley said, “I have always had a huge amount of respect for Owen, he is an absolute professional and great guy to work with. I feel that my experience can assist him climb the CT rankings, on top of that the crew at DHD are psyched to have Owen join us, so smiles all round.” Owen Wright added, “I started working with Darren on some boards leading up to the CT events in Bali and straight away I felt my surfing lift. I am stoked to announce that I am now part of the DHD team and I am looking forward to working with the people at DHD. Of course, a World Title is what I am surfing for, you never know these boards may be what I need to get me over the line.” Owen is the first new athlete signed by DHD since Jack Perry assumed the role of DHD and Modom Team Manager. Jack has brought fresh ideas to DHD and has challenged the previous thought process. The crew look forward to future athletes joining DHD and Modom as Jack identifies emerging and existing talent.

Andy Irons: Kissed by God tours through Australia and NZ.

In the men's categories we also found fewer segments to highlight. For Tops we can point to Woven’s (+6.7%), while Fleece Pants (+19.7) and Other Swimwear (+41.4%) were the only growth categories in Bottoms/Completes. In men's accessories the biggest bright spot was Shoulder Bags (+278.5), while Wetsuit Accessories (+2.2%) and Spring Wetsuits (+14.3%) and Short John Wetsuits (+26.5%) led the way in the Wetsuit category. In May we saw YoY sales growth in less than a handful of the core surf and skate hardgoods categories, namely with Protective Gear, Helmets (+60%) In conclusion, the May 2018 results and modest (-6.2% YOY) decline is an improvement on April’s double digit decline. Hopefully, June sales will continue to show improvement back to positive territory and reflect consumer demand for core surf and skate supplies as we dive into the winter months.

AKWA SURF TURNING 10

retail news

AKWA Surf in Milton will celebrate their 10th birthday on Saturday the first of September with customers from as far and wide as Canberra, Sydney, the Victorian border and the south coast of NSW.

MAY BOUNCES BACK FROM APRIL’S DOUBLE DIGIT DECLINE

“After the day's trade we will shuffle the store and re open our doors to all our family, friends, brands, ex-employees and team riders and share some laughs over a beer,” said AKWA’s Kurt Nyholm. “Thank you for helping us live our dream and we look forward to the joys of the next 10 years working with you all.”

After a double-digit decline (-19% YoY) in April 2018 the ActionWatch panel experienced a modest -6.2% decline in May 2018 compared to the same month last year. This pushes YTD 2018 (Jan-May) declines to -8.7% YoY compared to Jan-May of 2017. While the decline for May is undoubtedly disappointing, we are hopeful that June sales will bring us closer to positive growth territory. For May, the only broad category with growth was Sunglasses, up 4.9%, Wetsuit Accessories (hoods, gloves, vests) up 3.4% while Apparel was down -11.1%, Hardgoods -0.1%, Accessories -7.4% and Footwear -11%. Despite the declines there are still a few bright spots in terms of specific individual categories that experienced growth. On the women's side, we saw growth for Sunglasses up (+7.3). In addition, there are signs of strength in Tops with growth in Jackets at +6.6%. For Accessories we only saw growth in Duffel Bags (+77.5%) and Wallets (+2.1%) while Wetsuit Accessories (+8.1%) and Rash Guards (+13%) both bumped up.

WILSON RETAIL OFFICIALLY ACQUIRES RED HERRING Earlier this year we announced that veteran industry retailer Victor Tilley was selling his Red Herring stores to fellow retailer and SBIA President Anthony “Macka” Wilson. The deal, one of the largest independent surf shop acquisitions that ran against the tide of retail closures and settled late June, includes all four Red Herring stores which are located in Hobart, Launceston, Burnie & Northgate, Tasmania. Red Herring will join Saltwater Wine and Stormriders under the Wilson Retail banner. Victor and Macka have been friends for a long time and were both founders of the SBIA. “Stocktakes done and dusted,” said Anthony Wilson. “We installed new computers across the stores, installed our managed music platform, cut over to our point of sale system and as we speak (our managers) Porky and Mick are training the team on our systems and processes.”

Wilson admits Tasmania is a long way geographically but says the team at Wilson Retail are used to operating stores remotely or from a distance.

media news

“The reality is we can be in Tasmania in less time than it takes to get from Port Macquarie to say Bathurst or Dubbo. The distance isn’t the issue.”

ANDY IRONS: KISSED BY GOD TOURS THROUGH AUSTRALIA AND NZ

“Retail is detail, operationally we have to have the right support structure for the stores and we have to make sure the Tassie team have a clear understanding of what we need to deliver to our customers.” “Then it’s all about execution, the right products and brands in the right stores at the right time and pull that through to our marketing and VM. Then we need to make sure that we communicate all of that to the stores really clearly.” With Red Herring coming on board Wilson Retail Head Buyer, Emma O’Brien, has stepped up to a new role that oversees Marketing, VM and Buying department. Mat Cox moves into the Senior Buyer role and is joined by Aimee Steel as Ladies Buyer. To help support Operations Manager Paul Worboys (Porky), Wilson Retail created Cluster Manager positions. In NSW, Mick Mitchell and Ross Dreise, stepping into the roles and after a rigorous interview process, recently appointed Hobart Store Manager, Kristy Murtagh, will be looking after the Tassie stores. “We have an amazing bunch of people and to see the commitment and the way they have knuckled down to get through the past four months has been very humbling,” continued Anthony Wilson. “Victor and his crew have also been unreal with the transition, they have all been super helpful to our team.” “Business wise it’s one of the ballsiest things I’ve done. It definitely ranks up there when I begged, borrowed and sold everything as a 22-year-old to go into partnership in the first store, and then again 15 years later to buy my then business partner out.” Wilson said the history and legacy of Red Herring is amazing, the founder, Bill Thwaites was a champion surfer in the 60’s and represented Tasmania in the Australian Surfing titles in 1965. “The opportunity is also for us to become better retailers. The retail environment is changing really quickly, and we’ve got to be at the top of our game. Red Herring is going to let us have the structure we need and that’s exciting!”

Teton Gravity Research have announced the highly anticipated Australian and New Zealand premieres of “Andy Irons: Kissed by God.” The Australian film tour kicked off on July 25, 2018 with four premiere screenings, followed by an Australia & New Zealand theatrical release. Premiere screenings are: July 25th: Cremorne Orpheum Theatre, Sydney August 2nd: win Towns, Gold Coast August 3rd: Avoca Beach Picture Theatre, Avoca August 7th: Astor Theatre, Melbourne Additional dates and locations for the national release in Australia and New Zealand will be announced shortly.

WSL’S FACEBOOK DEBUT DISASTROUS The WSL released a statement about its Facebook transition which debuted for the Corona Open J-Bay. The feedback online and on the WSL comments board has not been favourable. It’s been disastrous. In response, WSL issued a statement which said the switch to Facebook was to enable its audience to continue to view each event for free, and also to further expand the WSL’s burgeoning fan base throughout the world. “That being said, we apologize for any issues you may have experienced during our transition over the last two days and we hope you continue to enjoy the Corona Open J-Bay,” the WSL statement read. In the statement the WSL said • We have worked with Facebook to fix the broadcasting issue we experienced during the early rounds of the event. • We are now offering the live stream on our desktop site – with adjacent round information and heat scores – without having to login to Facebook. • Other transitional problems have been limited to specific connected devices, which we are also currently addressing.

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Rip Curl Pro steps up green initiatives at Bells.

They also added that all heat replays can be viewed by navigating to WSL’s event detail page. Responding to the concurrent viewership number displayed in the top-left corner of the live broadcast, WSL said the number displayed on each stream does not represent the total concurrent audience viewing the event. “Because we’re serving localized ads against our programming, what you’re seeing is the audience total for the regional stream that you’re connected to,” the statement read. “The total cumulative audience will be defined as the summation of all regional streams across all platforms and connected devices.” In short, the WSL says that what fans are seeing is a much lower number of people viewing than actually are. While many fans worldwide experienced high-quality coverage of the Corona Open J-Bay on Facebook, most didn’t, prompting a second statement from the WSL. “We would like to apologize again for any inconvenience. The technical challenges are being worked on.” As a result of the technical difficulties with the stream WSL agreed with Facebook that for the rest of the event they would stream the content through its WSL channels – website, mobile apps and smart TVs – as well as on Facebook. “We remain committed and excited about sharing the stoke of surfing with Facebook, and to grow the audience for the benefit of the sport going forward.” Facebook is a major platform for media and entertainment, similar to linear cable and satellite providers. They offer a variety of live and original sports programming – from PGA events to Tom vs Time – and require minimal user data to access their content offering. The WSL also noted, “For those of you curious about what Facebook does with your personal information, please see their data privacy policy.” Check ASB’s feature “Webcast Rights For Sale; Pro Surfing’s Holy Grail – Sold To Facebook” for background on the deal.

Outerknown launches the Apex boardshort – by Kelly Slater.

finance news

environment news

DHD & MODOM LAUNCH CAPTIAL FUNDRAISER

RIP CURL PRO STEPS UP GREEN INITIATIVES AT BELLS

DHD and Modom have launched a crowdfunding campaign with innovative equity firm Equitise who say on their website that they want to make investing in private companies accessible, efficient and cool.

Surfing Victoria, the Surf Coast Shire and the World Surf League (WSL) announced that the 2018 Rip Curl Pro achieved the highest level of waste diversion on record with over 65% of waste being diverted away from landfill. Over the past five years the average diversion percentage has been 49.92% with the highest being 56.54% of diversion away from landfill to recycling achieved in 2016.

Equity crowdfunding became accessible to all Australians over the age of 18 in January 2018. It's a new way to invest that enables broad groups of investors (‘the crowd’) to fund early stage companies in return for equity. It helps these companies access the capital they require and gives investors a chance to invest in businesses they are passionate about. According to a statement from DHD, over the last four years the company has achieved considerable growth and attracted talented management who are focused on brand positioning and amplifying distribution channels. International sales represent 35% of revenue and with the introduction of EPS surfboards, DHD is well placed to increase this share. The company has also recently acquired Modom. As an established and innovative brand with existing offshore production relationships, work practices and product ranges, Modom is the key to expanding the product range of DHD and tapping into the surf accessory industry. Modom also has a loyal customer base and its own impressive riders Craig Anderson and Taj Burrow. DHD is raising capital to increase inventory, invest in product innovation and marketing. Alongside and in addition to these plans, the company also has major growth opportunities in the EPS and soft surfboard market as well as accessories and fashion. To own a piece of one of the world’s best surfboard brands, the company is calling the public to register their interest. DHD was founded in 1984 and is now one of the leading surfboard manufacturers in the world. Born out of the world-famous Kirra Point, the brand has grown both domestically and internationally, attracting some of the best surfers in the world including Mick Fanning and Stephanie Gilmore. Equitise was founded in Australia in 2014 by Chris Gilbert, Jonny Wilkinson and Panche Gjorgjevski with Will Mahon-Heap joining the team early 2015. Equitise is an online equity crowdfunding platform connecting start-ups and high growth businesses with a broad range of investors. The public can register interest here: https://equitise.com/darren-handley-designs-raise

16/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

Surfing Victoria Operations Manager Peter Murphy believes that new practices that have been put in place will help keep that percentage at an all-time high. “Over the past 12 months we have instituted a plastic-free policy on all event vendors and partners. This has allowed us to reduce the amount of waste from the event that goes to landfill but more importantly it has forced food vendors and event partners to change their practices to become more environmentally friendly.” “Not only has this made a difference at the Rip Curl Pro, it has flow on effects to our domestic events as well as other events vendors may attend. We now encourage all staff to bring reusable water bottles, coffee cups and reduce the amount waste brought down to the beach.” “We have made a concerted effort to reduce the amount of waste on site at the Rip Curl Pro and we look forward to making further changes in years to come.” Lachlan Close, Waste Management Supervisor at the Surf Coast Shire believes the strong partnership between the Surf Coast Shire and Surfing Victoria is the key to the strong reduction in waste to landfill. “The continued commitment to reduce waste to landfill and ensure the RCP is an environmental leader is due to the excellent relationship between Surfing Victoria and the Shire.” “For over 10 years the partnership has sought continual improvement in waste management, which has seen this year’s event divert 65% of total waste generated from landfill. Often unseen and unheard, waste management ticks along in the background and the Rip Curl Pro has had some amazing achievements over the years. Since its inception in 2012 commercial food organic recycling has diverted 4.78 tonnes from landfill.” “Whist public events on this scale are challenging, the dedicated partnership will endeavor to develop new and exciting methods to decrease waste to landfill and maximise recycling.”

OUTERKNOWN LAUNCHES THE APEX BOARDSHORT – BY KELLY SLATER The Apex Boardshort is 11-time World Champion Kelly Slater’s signature boardshort. The Apex boardies were honed and perfected over two years for absolute performance and as Kelly says, they’re “the best surf trunks I’ve ever worn.” The Apex is made from 86% recycled polyester, 14% Spandex with PFOA Free DWR. Recycled polyester is created by taking raw material waste like plastic bottles and transforming them into a premium polyester fibre. The Apex Boardshort sells for RRP$240 and is showing now and available online at Outerknown.

VISSLA X SURFRIDER ‘TO PROTECT & SURF’ COLLABORATION In an ongoing effort to Protect & Surf, Vissla and the Surfrider Foundation have collaborated to help ensure clean water and healthy beaches for today, tomorrow, and future generations. The Vissla x Surfrider To Protect & Surf collection is a fresh line of men’s apparel and accessories featuring boardshorts in two colorways, four 100% organic cotton t-shirt designs and a hat. Turning waste into want, Vissla has innovated an eco-friendly coconut fiber material using a process called Cocotex® to turn overlooked coconut husks blended with Repreve® recycled polyester into a flexible, comfortable and durable fabric for trunks. This reduces the amount of waste in the oceans and in landfills. Vissla has been a proud supporter of Surfrider and member of the Surf Industry Coastal Defenders program (USA) since 2015. They represent creative freedom, a forward-thinking philosophy and a generation of creators and innovators. Embracing a do-it-yourself attitude within surf culture, performance and craftsmanship, Vissla propels a surf-everything and rideanything mentality while maintaining a high standard for being an environmentally responsible brand. Proceeds from this limited-edition collaboration will support our shared goal to protect our ocean, waves and beaches. The collection can be purchased at local surf shops around the country and online. More information can be found at www.vissla.com/blog/vissla-made-surfrider/

INDUSTRY NEWS

Rusty Vic/Tas Agency to On Point Collective.

QUIKSILVER CRACK 100 MILLION BOTTLES AND GIVES BACK ON WORLD SURFING DAY Quiksilver’s recycling program – in collaboration with REPREVE® – hit the 100 million-bottle mark. Since its start in 2012, about 3500 tons of plastic has been repurposed into boardshorts, jackets and other garments. To celebrate, on World Surfing Day (June 16th, 2018) $10 of every Quiksilver boardshort containing Repreve fabric was donated to 5 Gyres, a non-profit organisation empowering action against the global health crisis of plastic pollution through science, education, and adventure. Recycled polyester both gives a second life to used plastic and reduces the global footprint of a product significantly. Arguably the most environmentally impactful step of a production cycle is the creation of the raw material. Producing recycled polyester consumes significantly lower amounts of energy (45%) and water (20%) than virgin polyester. Overall, the recycled fabric produces a third less greenhouse gases than conventional polyester ones. The 100 million bottles recycled through the Quiksilver x REPREVE® program save close to 9 million litres of drinking water and provide the annual energy consumption of close to 1000 households. Each Quiksilver x REPREVE® boardshort contains about 11 recycled bottles. “We are very excited to contribute a part to the protection of something we genuinely care about – the ocean,” said Garry Wall, Global General Manager of Quiksilver. “As surfers and snowboarders we need to think about the future, so our grandchildren can enjoy the mountain and the wave we love so much. Up-cycling plastic waste into something that is useful for us, even today, is an important step.” Quiksilver and fellow Boardriders Inc. brands Roxy and DC shoes have been using REPREVE® yarn as an essential part of their product offering for more than 5 years. REPREVE® starts the process by turning used plastic bottles into plastic flake, which is then converted into REPREVE® chips. The chips are then melted, extruded and converted into yarn that carries the same performance qualities as conventional polyester. On average, a Quiksilver boardshort using REPREVE® yarn contains about 11 recycled bottles. Currently about 50% of the range consists of REPREVE® products. Over the next few years, the brand is committed to using 100% REPREVE® yarn in all boardshorts. The snow collection will follow suit, increasing the adoption of both REPREVE® yarn and other sustainable materials.

18/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

Oakley reveals new Thermonuclear Protection Capsule collection.

“Recycling is one thing, reducing another, 100 million bottles is a milestone, now we are working on a refined strategy to fight plastic waste through innovative products and actions,” added Wall. “There are still many areas where we need to improve, and we look forward to bringing green values into all areas of our business, a responsibility that our industry as a whole need to assume.”

on the move NEIL FISKE NAMED CEO OF GAP Gap Inc. announced the appointment of former Billabong CEO Neil Fiske as president and chief executive officer of Gap brand. Fiske began his new role on June 20, 2018, less than two months after he exited Billabong and less than one month following the company’s acquisition by Boardriders. “Neil brings significant retail and apparel experience to Gap Inc. and a track record of transforming and repositioning brands,” said Art Peck, President and Chief Executive Officer of Gap Inc. “He is an experienced leader who deeply understands the mechanics of this business, the value of an omnichannel strategy, and the need to build a progressive and relevant brand. I believe Neil is the right leader to strengthen the Gap brand.”

JAMIE THOMPSON TO LSKD NATIONAL SALES Former Rusty sales manager Jamie Thompson has joined the LSKD team and will be overseeing their wholesale business as LKI Head Of Wholesale. Jamie is charged with expanding LSKD wholesale distribution channels through Australia and New Zealand. “We are rebranding LKSD across all ECOM platforms and our wholesale business,” said Thompson. “This is going to be huge for the brand.”

IN BRIEF Alfreds Apartment co-founder Danny Neilsen has a new position at SurfStitch as Category Manager for Surf, Eyewear, Watches & Snow. Former RVCA National Sales Manager Ross Moresi has joined Accent Group as a Buyer in Training. Simone Coates Global Brand Manager at RES Denim has exited the company. Stephen Locke has been appointed the new Country Manager for Luxottica replacing Damien Campbell who (unofficially) moves to Boardriders.

Volcom’s former Product Manager Adam Hayes-Williams now steps up to Buying, Planning, Product Management and Retail for the company. Former City Beach Senior Menswear Buyer Karen (Munns) Arnolda has joined Ozmosis Group as Buying Manager.

AFENDS APPOINTS NEW VICTORIAN SALES AGENCY Afends announced that Nitrus Agencies, based out of Collingwood and headed by Mick Barrett and Mitch Kendall, will be taking care of all Victorian sales for the brand moving forward. Afends will be sitting alongside other Nitrus brands such as Herschel, Flexfit, Banks and Raen Sunglasses.

RUSTY VIC/TAS AGENCY TO ON POINT COLLECTIVE Rusty have partnered with On Point Collective Brand Agency to represent the brand across Victoria and Tasmania. On Point Collective will begin to operate from the Rusty office and showrooms in South Melbourne and will also incorporate Rusty within their Torquay office and Showrooms. Commenting on the partnership, Rusty Managing Director Geoff Backshall said, “We are thrilled to be working with Jimi (Cordell) and his team and believe the combination of our two teams will continue to provide (retailers) with exceptional levels of service and industry experience, laying a foundation of strength for the future ahead. After growing up in the west, On Point Collective’s Jimi Cordell said it’s a great feeling to welcome a Perth bred brand to the On Point Collective portfolio. “Alec, Lucy and I are excited to officially welcome Rusty to the On Point Collective Family. Rusty’s brand culture, product and rich heritage in the surf industry we feel complements the current On Point brand mix, and we can’t wait to work alongside the entire Rusty team,” concluded Cordell. Jimi Cordell- Jimi@onpointcollective.com.au Alec Summers- Alec@onpointcollective.com.au

SAMUEL TREFFERS NAMED HEAD OF MENSWEAR AT SURFSTITCH Samuel Treffers was promoted to Head of Menswear at SurfStitch, and began digging into the new position this year. With SurfStitch for close to seven years as the Menswear Buyer, Treffers will continue his work with the company on the Gold Coast. Before joining SurfStitch he was was with the General Pants Group for nearly two years.

marketing news OAKLEY REVEALS NEW THERMONUCLEAR PROTECTION CAPSULE COLLECTION Known for their iconic and timeless designs in sunglasses, Oakley Inc. has been dipping into the world of apparel and streetwear recently. Today Oakley is back in the news feed, serving up a new range of clothing as they reveal their Thermonuclear Protection capsule collection. The new collection draws inspiration from the brand’s rich heritage in motocross while honoring classic ‘90s California style. This marks the second installment of the collection, doing so with a bold, dynamic, and avant-garde approach. Oakley delivers this new look for the season, with t-shirts, fleece, pants, outerwear, and accessories. The collection also features two limited edition colors of Oakley’s iconic Mumbo frame; the original M-Frame that brought sports eyewear to the mainstream was first introduced in 1989 for a very limited run. The sunglasses celebrate the past and the present, doing so with the Factory Pilot logo and hammer earstem from the original and adding Oakley’s revolutionary Prizm lens technology.

VOLCOM FOR EVERYBODY Volcom is rolling out a global inclusive sizing campaign beginning with denim aptly called VolcomForEverybody. The campaign weaves Ambassadors and muses that encompass all different walks of life, who are all different shapes and sizes. Volcom is re-purposing the past to create a future that embraces body positivity and all-inclusive sizing for all body shapes. The campaign kicks off with classic denim styles that possess a timeless relevance that can be worn by all women. The campaign roll out includes Ambassador Support from Natalie Nootenboom, Georgia May Jagger, skateboarder Rachelle Vinberg, CoCo Ho and a cast of muses who encompass all different walks of life, are all different shapes and sizes and inspired the making of this collection. A second wave or Ambassador support will drop next week from Bree Kish, Cassie Amato and Elena Hight among others. View extended + plus sizes on Volcom’s website and keep an eye out for more all-inclusive styles coming soon. Volcom says it’s about time. We’re embracing body positivity and kicking the doors down of what’s to be expected in the fashion industry. Welcome #VolcomForEveryBody forever.

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OVERSEAS NEWS

Steph Gilmore honoured at Ohana Gala.

Rabbit Bartholomew to receive lifetime achievement award at SIMA 29th Annual Waterman’s Award.

u.s news

Surfing Heritage and Culture Centre is a 501c3 non-profit museum whose mission is to preserve, promote and present surfing’s heritage and cultural impact.

personality. When Rabbit retired from competition, he brought all his talents and energy to the pro tour and his contributions are still evident today.”

STEPH GILMORE HONOURED AT OHANA GALA

The official name of the event is “SHACC Ohana GALA honoring Women Making Waves.” It coincides with a “Women Making Waves” summer exhibit launched at SHACC.

Six years ago, the then-ASP was purchased by a somewhat unknown entity, consolidating the sport’s various mechanisms under one umbrella for the first time in its 40-year history. Uncertainty and curiosity permeated the surfing world and the organization was placed under many microscopes.

The Ohana Gala presented by the Surfing Heritage and Culture Centre honored four women who have helped change the world of surfing. The gathering was to celebrate Roxy athlete Lisa Andersen as well as iconic surfers Rell Sunn, Joyce Hoffman and Stephanie Gilmore. The trio were given the Making Waves Award for having established themselves within the sport of surfing through their athletic pursuits, cultural contributions and have distinguished themselves via their actions, performances, pioneering spirit and dedication to the sport, culture, business, and lifestyle of surfing. Lisa Andersen, talked about how she wanted to surf without worrying about bikini malfunctions, and she made it cool for women to wear boardshorts through the launch of Roxy. She teared up at the exhibit opening when talking about what it meant to be honoured. A soon-to-be-released biographical film, titled “Trouble” after the nickname she earned in the water, reflects her life trying to fit in and be accepted in a line-up surrounded by mostly men. “I am so honoured to be presented this award alongside my heroes. It was a special and fun evening with family and friends,” said Lisa. Steph Gilmore is currently number two in the world and aiming for her seventh world title. She was the youngest ever world champion – male or female – at just 19. Her first world title came her rookie year on the World Surf League Championship Tour in 2007. Gilmore was inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame in 2013. For more than a decade “Gilmore has been a driving force in the evolution of women’s surfing,” according to a write up at the exhibit. Gilmore is currently the face of Roxy – which Andersen helped create with Quiksilver decades ago. “We really felt like women had not been recognized enough,” said Glenn Brumage, Surfing Heritage Executive Director. “This was the right time and right place, and the right thing to do right now.” “These are the strong women who throughout history paved the way and influenced young women to excel at whatever they wanted to do. “This evening is bringing together not only some of the most notable surf stars in history but also an impressive group of impassioned and inspiring leaders,” added Brumage. 20/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

RABBIT BARTHOLOMEW TO RECEIVE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD AT SIMA 29TH ANNUAL WATERMAN’S AWARD The Surf Industry Manufacturers Association (SIMA) will honour 1978 world champion, former president of the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) and Australian Surfing Hall of Fame Inductee Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew with the Lifetime Achievement Award. Other inductees to the 29th Annual Waterman’s Awards include World Surf League (WSL) and co-owners Dirk and Natasha Ziff as Watermen of the Year; world-renowned conservationists and industry veterans the late Doug Tompkins (founder of The North Face) and his wife, Kris (former CEO of Patagonia), as Environmentalists of the Year. From master of Kirra to self-made world champion to tube-riding pioneer to president of the ASP, few people have contributed more to the sport of surfing than Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew, making him an easy choice for the 2018 SIMA Lifetime Achievement Award. Rabbit burst onto the international pro surfing scene in 1975 and that winter, along with Shaun Tomson, Mark Richards, Ian Cairns, and Peter Townend “busted down the doors” of surfing on Hawaii’s North Shore. By 1978, his tactics, confidence and flair made him a top-rate competitor for professionalism’s first decade and he was crowned world champion in 1978. In the mid-90s, Rabbit turned his attention to be a global ambassador for pro surfing, running contests, and being an environmental crusader. But perhaps Rabbit’s most important contribution to the sport was his service as President of ASP International from 1999 through 2008. Under his leadership, the world tour abandoned staging events in big cities with poor surf, to putting the world’s best surfers in the world’s best waves – what became known as the “Dream Tour.” It was only fitting that the man who brought fun, vision, panache, and style would be the driving force behind taking pro surfing to the next level. “The sport of surfing owes so much to Rabbit,” said industry veteran Paul Naude. “He was such a great student of competitive surfing during his day and he combined that with an incredible sense of style and

Since then, the now-WSL has instituted seismic changes and created conditions of historic firsts for surfing – pay parity at the elite level; elevation of the Big Wave Tour; Pe’ahi, Nazare and Mavericks joining the big wave ranks; digital and social revolution of the surfing world; major media partnerships; unprecedented levels of broadcast delivery; barrier-breaking surfing across the globe and much more. “Not only has the WSL levelled up the professional side of surfing, it has done so with purpose, intent and a plan for the organization to stand for something larger than sport itself – including a mind for ocean health through the WSL PURE program,” said SIMA President and Rip Curl CEO Kelly Gibson. “It’s our great privilege that SIMA honour the WSL and Dirk and Natasha Ziff as the 2018 Watermen of the Year.” The 29th Annual Waterman’s will be held Saturday, August 4, 2018, and return for the third consecutive year to The Ranch at Laguna Beach in Laguna Beach, Calif. The industry will gather under the stars at The Ranch to celebrate this year’s honourees, raise money through silent and live auctions, and enjoy a farm-to-table meal with friends – all in an effort to raise funds for 15 different ocean environment groups. In the past 28 years, Waterman’s has raised more than $7 million to support beneficiaries that are dedicated to protecting oceans, beaches and waves for the benefit of surfers and the surf industry around the globe. Waterman’s benefits the SIMA Environmental Fund, a 501(c)(3) charitable foundation that awards grants to various environmental groups based on their dedication to preserving and protecting the world’s oceans, beaches and waves. Waterman’s attracts more than 500 people annually and is expected to raise more than $250,000 for 15 ocean conservation groups this year. A list of the 2018 Waterman’s environmental beneficiaries can be found online at the SIMA website, sima. com. Sponsorship packages for the 2018 Waterman’s are on sale now.

PACSUN NAMES PRESIDENT Alfred Chang has been promoted to president of Anaheim-based retailer Pacific Sunwear. He previously served

as the company’s Chief Brand Officer and Executive Vice President of Men’s Merchandising. Chang, who joined PacSun in 2006, will oversee the retail chain’s design, merchandising, marketing, retail and e-commerce business. Chief Executive Mike Egeck described Chang as a “passionate and innovative brand builder.” “His contributions to PacSun – including growing the men’s business, cultivating brand partnerships, and leading overall brand strateg – have been instrumental to PacSun’s recent success and have positioned the business well for future growth,” Egeck said in a statement. The company also announced Brie Olson as Executive Vice President and Chief Merchandising Officer for men’s and women’s division as well as naming Joel Quill Vice President of Stores. Source OCBJ

PACSUN MERGES WITH EDDIE BAUER Golden Gate Capital has spun PacSun and Bellevue, Washington-based sports retailer Eddie Bauer into a new operating company known as PacSun Eddie Bauer Group. PSEB will be composed of private equity firm Golden Gate Capital’s two star players with the Anaheim-based retail chain Pacific Sunwear of California joining the Bauer brand to increase the reach of both companies. PacSun emerged from bankruptcy in 2016 under the ownership of Golden Gate following a restructuring plan that converted its debt into equity. Wells Fargo provided a five-year, $100 million revolving line of credit. Store sales rose 9% this year, as reported by Reuters. Eddie Bauer had been in bankruptcy for five years before Golden Gate acquired the outdoor gear and apparel company in 2009 for $286 million. Its same-store sales are now up 5%. Now merged, the retail footprint of both companies will be more than 700 stores and is expected to hit $1.5 billion in combined sales according to the company. Source: OCBJ

OAKLEY INC CALLS FOUL ON GRAFFITI ARTISTS' RIGHTS Oakley Inc (USA) is currently embroiled in a legal mess for including graffiti in a marketing campaign without the authorization of the graffiti artists. According to a lawsuit filed in U.S. District Court for the Central District of California, Donald Robbins and Noah Darr – better known as “Keptione” and “DJ Rakus” – claim that Oakley “unlawfully (took) their original

“Jj” Gonzales promoted to Volcom Global Men’s Design Director.

artwork” and splashed it all over its ad campaigns, inside its retail outposts, and in product catalogs. The two street artists allege that in 2015, they painted outdoor murals in San Francisco that consisted largely of their “highly stylized signatures” as part of a global art project called, Meeting of Styles. Fast forward two years to April 2017 and “in an effort to increase sales revenues, attract young new customers, and target a young urban demographic, Oakley developed and launched the international multi-media campaign featuring the murals as the centerpiece element," asserts Robbins and Darr. In addition to alleging that Oakley reproduced the murals without their “authorization or knowledge,” the artists’ complaint states that in case “this literal misappropriation was not bad enough, Oakley also superimposed its own Oakley brand logo next to the murals throughout the campaign, as if the Oakley brand created the murals itself, or, alternatively, as if the Oakley brand was endorsed by Robbins and Darr.” Robbins and Darr claim that when they contacted Oakley about the alleged unauthorized use of their murals, “shockingly, counsel for Luxottica (the eyewear behemoth that owns Oakley) … responded to [their] concerns by acknowledging that Oakley had used their work, but then offensively suggested that their artwork does not have any ‘modicum of creativity’ and is just ‘generic’ markings not ‘eligible’ for any protection.”

JEFFREY JAMES “JJ” GONZALES PROMOTED TO VOLCOM GLOBAL MEN’S DESIGN DIRECTOR In his sixteen years with the brand as an apparel and denim designer, JJ has designed pretty much everything – from boardshorts to jacket – but for the last decade and a half he’s poured his passion into Volcom's denim program, merging an old school mentality with a modern day approach to design. "Following the brand’s history and heritage," he explains, "but constantly evolving and looking forward." JJ will now bring that expertise and experience to overseeing the worldwide men's and boy's product offering as well as leading the global design team. With all he's learned at the brand, "the alignment and timing feels perfect," JJ says. Volcom CEO Todd Hymel agrees: "JJ has been a core member of the design team for years, developing and growing our bottoms business to be the industry leader, by far. He is a living and breathing embodiment of Volcom’s passion and dedication and I am excited for him to drive and elevate all of our efforts to bring a new level of creativity to our brand and product.”

HAWAII TO BAN SUNSCREEN SALES TO PROTECT CORAL REEFS Hawaii is set to become the first state in the US to ban the sale of sunscreens that contain oxybenzone and octinoxate after state lawmakers passed a bill to ban those active ingredients by 2021. Research studies have found that chemicals found in some popular sunscreen products are harmful to ocean ecosystems. According to a study by Haereticus Environmental Laboratory, a nonprofit scientific organization the chemicals that help us by filtering UV rays are causing severe damage to Hawaii's marine environment. They show up in coastal waters after beachgoers swim in the ocean and via discharges from wastewater treatment plants. The study found that the chemicals seep into young coral and contribute to coral bleaching, which occurs when an increase in sea temperatures kills the algae that grows inside coral, turning reefs white and eliminating nutrients that sustain other marine life. About 14,000 tons of sunscreen enter the world's reefs every year, according to a 2015 paper published in the journal Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology. Hawaii's legislation will prohibit the sale and distribution of any sunscreen that contains the two chemicals (oxybenzone and octinoxate) without a prescription from a licensed physician. "Hawaii is the first state in the nation to pass a measure of this magnitude,” said state Senator Will Espero on Twitter after the bill passed in his chamber. “The world was watching. We delivered. Preserve and protect our ocean environment!" The bill now goes to the office of Hawaii Governor David Ige. If he signs it, the law would go into effect January 1, 2021. In an effort to protect Hawaii's reefs, Hawaiian Airlines last month began offering passengers free samples of natural sunscreens without those ingredients. The airline is also encouraging its passengers to learn more about Hawaii by showing a 11-minute documentary on each flight about the environmental challenges affecting reefs. VIA CNN

VOLCOM LAUNCHES INNOVATIVE B2B SALES AND MERCHANDISING SOLUTION ASB MAGAZINE: Volcom Inc (USA) has implemented Plumriver's Elastic Suite wholesale procurement and B2B digital merchandising platform as part of a major enhancement and overhaul of the company's commercial sales process. Volcom's roll out of the Elastic platform is expected to dramatically improve and streamline the

Raglan surf shops hit by crime wave.

procurement user experience for retailers, create efficiency-driven cost savings and help Volcom establish new relationships with additional retail partners. The platform will be rolled out in North America and Europe, but does not include Australia. "Volcom is making major improvements to our B2B sales and merchandising capability with a focus on creating 360-degree efficiencies, executing best-in-class strategies around our diverse product offering and providing premium service to all our channels of distribution worldwide. In addition, Elastic will help us further the evolution and strengthening of the Volcom brand," said Ryan Immegart, Volcom Chief Marketing Officer. "With Elastic as our B2B ecommerce technology provider, we are implementing the most innovative and feature-rich solution available while enhancing the product procurement process for our retail partners." The initial Elastic launch includes all Volcom's product lines covering retailers across North America and Europe, with future plans for a complete global rollout of the new technology. Volcom's Elastic platform includes a fully-integrated B2B sales management solution, customized retailer procurement applications, robust commercial sales rep merchandising tools. Volcom also expects to strengthen the company's commitment to sustainability through print reduction and greater operational efficiency. However, according to Volcom Australia’s General Manager Alison Thomas, the platform won’t be rolled out in Australia. “Regarding Elastic we have no plans at this stage to switch and happy with Brandscope,” said Alison Thomas. "Retailers are now demanding from their suppliers the best B2B ecommerce technology and higher levels of integration to streamline their approach to product procurement," said Josh Reddin, Elastic Founder/ PlumRiver Principal. "The Volcom rollout of Elastic helps demonstrate how we are quickly displacing traditional commercial sales processes with more efficient and disruptive solutions." Through platform standardization and innovative technologies, Elastic helps both manufacturers and retailers achieve efficiency-driven cost savings and sales growth. Cost savings come through streamlined order entry, digital catalogs, print reduction, resource optimization, inventory management, online accounting functionality and product sample reduction. Increased sales revenues come through customized retailer/dealer applications, strategic sales planning, digital merchandising, complex pricing incentive programs, history-driven selling, strengthening brand equity, segmented sales capability, increased client acquisition/ retention and enhanced sales presentations.

PlumRiver and Elastic together serve clients representing some of the world's largest and most iconic brands in the outdoor, sporting goods, apparel and footwear industries. In addition to Volcom, selected clients include: The North Face, Patagonia, Timberland, Asics, Pearl Izumi, , Boardriders, Puma, Oakley, Reebok/CCM, Spyder, Burton, Reef, Hurley, Smartwool, Speedo and Vans. SOURCE Elastic Suite

n.z news RAGLAN SURF SHOPS HIT BY CRIME WAVE Raglan Surf Co was broken into recently and follows a crime wave hitting the surfing mecca in New Zealand. Earlier this month Raglan played host to the Rip Curl International Gromfest Finals and the town was riding a wave of popularity thanks to consecutive back-to-back swells at the world-famous left. However, the crime wave has left store owners feeling deflated and at a loss heading into the slower winter months. It is the fifth time a surf shop in Raglan has been raided in the past four months. Thirteen days ago, the Surf Emporium was targeted by thieves who smashed through the front glass door and side window before stealing clothing items. This followed a series of ram raids on the clothing outlet Fallenfront, going back to February of this year. An unknown number of perpetrators shattered the front glass door and side window to get into the Raglan Surf Emporium. According to Waikato Police, the thieves stole clothing and an amount of cash. CCTV footage was being reviewed and a forensic scene examination is underway. Worse still, Fallenfront, which is located across the road from the Surf Emporium, has been ram raided three times this year. According to reports Police were looking at whether the incidents were linked. "It does seem there's a series of events and we need to work out if they are linked,” said Senior Sergeant Dave Hall, of Western Waikato Police. “If any of our readers have any information, please contact us and we’ll pass it on to the store owners.” Via Stuff.NZ

21/

ASB MULTI MEDIA METER 2018

Print Media SURFERS Rank THE PRINT MEDIA METER SHOULD BE USED AS A GUIDE ONLY TO SURFERS’ AND BRANDS’ IMPRESSIONS IN THE FOLLOWING MAGAZINES OVER THE SAMPLE PERIOD OF JANUARY THROUGH UNTIL DECEMBER (2017) MAGAZINE COVER DATES. Magazines Tracks Magazine Australia’s Surfing Life Magazine Surfing World Magazine Stab Magazine Surfers Cumulative advertising and editorial impressions using the point score legend opposite. Brands First past the post. To qualify company logos must be clearly legible to the average person. Corporate advertising bearing more than one company logo earns one impression. Brands accrue one point for every legible impression including all editorial and advertising. Advertising & Editorial Ratios Magazines are ranked in order of highest editorial content percentage. The Pointscore Legend Cover Poster (pull-out) Three-page action gatefold Double page spread Full-page plus column Full-page Half-page Quarter-page Less than Quarter-page

20 20 15 10 7 5 2 1.25 1

Athlete

Total

Advertising

—

MICK FANNING

488.75

—

JOHN JOHN FLORENCE

140.75

—

CREED MCTAGGART

139.50

1.25

MASON HO

101.00

CRAIG ANDERSON

98.00

TAJ BURROW

86.00

—

RUSSELL BIERKE

67.00

LAURIE TOWNER

57.00

TYLER WRIGHT

49.25

JAKE OSMAN

48.25

Brand

Total

324.75 20.25

Editorial 164

120.50 138.25 51 98

86 28

39 57 20

29.25 48.25

BRANDS Rank 1

RIP CURL

58.00

ROCKSTAR ENERGY DRINK

37.00

—

BILLABONG

35.00

DHD SURFBOARDS

31.00

RED BULL

30.00

QUIKSILVER

27.00

HURLEY

23.00

REEF

20.00

DRAGON

17.00

—

VOLCOM

14.00

Social Media Commentary IGTV

2 - IGTV has ‘channels'

The release IGTV, Instagram’s latest and greatest, took us all a little by surprise but definitely left everyone scrambling on how to approach this new shiny toy. Here’s a couple of things to know about IGTV.

IGTV is an amazing opportunity for you to create your own channel — yes channel. When someone follows your account, your IGTV channel will show up for them to watch. Famous people get an hour of upload time, you get ten minutes.

1 - What is IGTV It’s a standalone app for watching longform vertical video (but also sits in the IG app) When you log in to IGTV, it will automatically begin playing vertical videos from people you follow, along with recommendations from elsewhere in Instagram.

22/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

3 - Avoid treating your IGTV Channel like Stories. The brand that wins at IGTV will be the brand that approaches it similar to TV (weekly set times) with the internet's fingerprints all over it (short, sharp and a little DIY). In short, think of a YouTube Series you watch, then think of that in a vertical ratio, and that could be you on IGTV. If you do need to upload right now (!), then at least re-cut your videos to be the correct vertical ratio. Don’t try to jam a square peg into a round hole, not fun for anyone least of all you.

ASB MULTI MEDIA METER 2018

Social Media SURFERS Rank

Athlete

Total (millions)

MICK FANNING

2.069

JOHN JOHN FLORENCE

1.844

TAJ BURROW

0.672

TYLER WRIGHT

0.369

CRAIG ANDERSON

0.244

MASON HO

0.208

LAURIE TOWNER

0.042

RUSSELL BIERKE

0.038

#SOCIAL MEDIA METER (ALPHABETICAL ORDER)

CREED MCTAGGERT

0.034

NB NO TOTAL OR RANK DUE TO THE MIX OF GLOBAL AND REGIONAL SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS. SHOULD BE USED AS A GUIDE ONLY. TABLE CORRECT AT OCTOBER. TABLE REPRESENTS THOSE BRANDS ON THE PRINT MEDIA METER ONLY. NOT EVERY BRAND.

JAKE OSMAN

Brand

Total (millions)

#SOCIAL_MEDIA_METER Using top brands and surfers we’ve tallied surf brands or brands operating in surfwear distribution as the baseline for our social media list. Using the social media links from each brands Australian website homepage, we’ve combined their Facebook ‘likes’ as well as Instagram and Twitter ‘followers’ to determine our overall social media top performers. If there’s a brand that deserves to be on the list, write to us and let us know. If the link to your social media site isn’t the right one or there’s an alternative social media page for your brand we should be monitoring, also let us know.

Facebook

Twitter

Instagram

BRANDS Rank 1

QUIKSILVER

8.804

HURLEY

6.385

BILLABONG

4.711

VOLCOM

4.431

RIP CURL

2.786

REEF

1.828

O’NEILL

1.232

GLOBE

0.492

DRAGON

0.416

DHD SURFBOARDS

0.142

4 - Filming!

5 - Have fun with it

• If you’re shooting on your phone, shoot at the highest quality possible (the iPhone X can shoot 4k).

But be careful, it’s wildly easy to lose an hour down the IGTV rabbit hole.

• Be careful of sound if you’re filming someone talking (wind is a nuisance) • Use a tripod or gimbal, you’re not as steady as you think. • Bonus points using multiple camera (phones) angles to film.

Lincoln Eather. Lincoln is co-founder of Empire Ave, an Australian-centric content platform whose core focus is on art, fashion and tech-product developments across contemporary mens fashion and beach lifestyle. Lincoln Eather is a branding, marketing and social media strategist known for creating renewed value, life and traction for brands that intersect function and lifestyle. Head over to #ASBMAG.com for full social media results and analysis.

23/

Runner-Up JBay OPEN 2018

CONGRATULATIONS WADE

FRESH

LIIVE VISION NOVA POLAR Code: L0622A Colourway: Matte Black RRP: $49.95 Available: July Description: A refined style for those of discerning taste, the Nova features polarised lens and neutral matte black frame.

PATAGONIA RETRO PILE PULLOVER Code: 22810-ELKH Colourway: El Cap RRP: $179.95 Available: March Description: A warm, easy-wearing pullover made of double-sided solid shearling. Even after a hard week, your Retro Pile Pullover still feels like a warm welcome.

LIIVE VISION ENVY POLAR Code: L0624A Colourway: Black Wood RRP: $49.95 Available: July Description: Bold without overpowering, the Envy is a strong style with large polarised lens and subtle frame texture.

OTIS EYEWEAR A DAY LATE Code: 25-1803 Colourway: Emerald/Grey Non Polar RRP: $199.95 Available: Now Description: A refined look with supreme comfort. A Day Late effortlessly blends our handmade acetate frame with a polished metal nose bridge to provide that impeccably functional frame you've been seeking out. Heighten your style with a wearable pair of sunglasses that can complement any look, any day and any adventure you set yourself on.

VOLCOM OZZIE STONEY 18 Code: A0811901 Colourway: Multi RRP: $75.00 Available: February Description: Stone hemp stretch, 71% polyester / 16% cotton / 7% hemp / 6% elastane, 18” outseam 4 - way stretch boardshort with custom Ozzie Wright artwork.

ROXY STAY TRUE WHEELIE SUITCASE Code: ERJBL03147 Colourway: Turbulence Rose-KYM8 RRP: $179.99 Available: January

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26/ Australasian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

RIP CURL MIRAGE IMPACT REVO ONE PIECE Code: GSIBF2 Colourway: Black RRP: $129.99 Available: February Description: The Mirage Impact One piece is our most advanced and least restrictive Mirage onepiece yet, offering great support and cheeky coverage in a fully reversible suit perfect for long sessions in warming waters.

PATAGONIA PROW BOMBER JACKET Code: 28105-BUFG Colourway: Buffalo Green RRP: $249.95 Available: March Description: A bomber-style jacket made of supersoft 100% recycled nylon satin woven and insulated with warm 600-fill-power Traceable Down (duck down traced from parent farm to apparel factory to help ensure the birds that supply it are not force-fed or live-plucked).

QUIKSILVER HIGHLINE FEELIN FINE 18 Code: EQYBS04116 Colourway: Stellar RRP: $79.99 Available: January Description: To celebrate our 50th anniversary, we revisited the place where it all began. This line is inspired by Australia, the sensations of summer, and the radically simple vision of ’69.

SALTY CREW ALPHA WINDERSON Code: 20935011 Colourway: Black RRP: $149.99 Available: Now Description: Hooded zip jacket with side welt pockets, adjustable drawcord hem, front zip chest pocket, packs into front chest pocket. 60% cotton, 40% polyester.

CARVE GATTACA Code: 3462 Colourway: Black Streaky RRP: $59.99 Available: September Description: A modern one piece polarized lens design.

CREATURES OF LEISURE STASH LOCK Code: AASL9BK Colourway: Black RRP: $59.95 Available: Now Description: Stash your keys for stress free shred sessions! The Creatures Stash Lock is a heavy-duty combination lock with a corrosion resistant stainless steel shackle and a water resistant cover, close proximity key pouches and EVA backing for car protection.

OAKLEY FALL LINE Code: OO7085-13 Colourway: Factory Pilot Blackout w/ Prizm Snow Jade Iridium RRP: $249.95 Available: Now Description: Cylindrical rimless style goggle with a complete lens seal in a compact mid-sized fit. Featuring Prizm lens technology which provides unprecedented control of light transmission resulting in colours precisely tuned to maximize contrast and enhance visibility.

SALTY CREW TAILS UP HAT Code: 35035091 Colourway: Black RRP: $39.99 Available: Now Description: Structured 5 panel hat with embroidered felt patch. 80% acrylic, 20% wool.

CARVE VOYAGER Code: 5000 Colourway: Matt Black Polarized RRP: $79.99 Available: September Description: The Carve Floating range featuring Floating TR90 frames & hydrophobic H20 repellent polarised lens.

GLOBE CHET IV CLASSIC Colourway: Green Camo/White RRP: $149.99 Available: TBA

VOLCOM OZZIE CAT S/S Code: A0411907 Colourway: Lime RRP: $70.00 Available: February Description: 100% viscose wet print modern fit short sleeve button up shirt with custom Ozzie Wright artwork.

REVIEW: Darren Longbottom’s Near-Death Tale Out Now On Penguin Books

RIP CURL MIRAGE 3/2/ONE ULTIMATE Code: CBOZP3 Colourway: Camo RRP: $99.99 Available: March Description: The Mirage 3/2/One is the freshest boardshort technology on the market, featuring three different materials in the front, back and side panels of the boardshort. Designed with Cordura fabric, neoprene and E6 Mirage Pro Fabric. Tough where you need it, stretch where you feel it.

OAKLEY LATCH GRID COLLECTION Code: OO9265-4153 Colourway: Matte Crystal Black w/ PRIZM Ruby RRP: $214.95 Available: Now Description: An unrivaled design, immortalized. Industrial stamping and grid accents salute the art of Latch. GLOBE OPTION EVO Colourway: Black/Black RRP: $119.99 Available: TBA

The story about the epic rescue of Darren ‘Daz’ Longbottom from a remote surf break in Indonesia will soon be released on Penguin Books. Daz’s ill-fated trip to the Mentawai’s in 2008 was followed by an outpouring of support and well wishes across the entire surf community both at home and abroad. Life has had its fair share of challenges for Daz, but in business he’s also survived and thrived and runs the super successful Zink Surf and is a partner in the Rip Curl Kiama store. According to the presser from Penguin, Daz was born to surf. He is the son of surfing pioneer and Cronulla boardmaker Rossco, and brother to legendary bigwave specialist Dylan. Following early successes in competitive surfing, Daz moved into the surf industry and eventually became the owner of Zink Surf in Kiama. He became a father and ran a successful business, which made life feel easy as he negotiated a path of pure happiness. Then, in a split second, everything changed. While surfing a remote and idyllic location in Indonesia, fourteen hours by boat from the mainland, a freak accident resulted in a broken neck and instant paralysis. Alone in the water, Daz fought to stay alive until he was rescued by his friends. But that’s just the beginning. Reaching the safety of a hospital would become an epic, life-or-death ride no-one could have foreseen. Daz could never have foreseen just how difficult the road home would be, or how his world would be changed so profoundly following that life-changing event. “Beyond the Break” is the tale of a freak accident, a terrifying rescue and the long and painful journey home. It is a story of coming to terms with the huge consequences of riding a single wave. British author and journalist Tim Rushby-Smith was a lover of the great outdoors: a passionate mountain-biker, hiker and climber, and enthusiastic in the waves. In 2005, Tim fell from a tree while working as a tree surgeon and suffered a spinal cord injury that resulted in instant paraplegia. His experience of injury and the return to normal life led him to write a memoir reflecting on his experience. Tim went on to write features for numerous newspapers and magazines around the world, as well as writing for the BBC. He served a six-month stint as a columnist for The Times in London, writing about life as a wheelchair dad. The 272 page book is out in paperback and retails at $34.99. You can order at: www.penguin.com.au/books/beyond-the-break-9780143787624

27/

BUYERS’ GUIDE

EYEWEAR

ROXY FLUME Code: ERJEY03067  Colourway: Shiny Gold RRP: $119.99 Available: Now

DRAGON BAILE Code: 35075-416 Colourway: Matte H2O Crystal Shadow/Blue Ion Polarised RRP: $230.00 Available: Now

DRAGON BAILE Code: 35068-001 Colourway: Jet Black/Grey RRP: $180.00 Available: Now

NIKE SB FLATSPOT Code: EV0923 004 Colourway: Wolf Grey Cool Grey/Teal RRP: $160.00 Available: Now

NIKE SB CURRENT Code: EV1057 002 Colourway: Matte Black Pewter/ Amber RRP: $170.00 Available: Now

OTIS EYEWEAR WINSTON Code: 27-1805 Colourway: Matte Dark Tort / Brown Lens RRP: $199.95 Available: Now

VONZIPPER PLIMPTON Code: SMFPLIBGN Colourway: Black Gloss/Satin Gold RRP: $179.99 Available: Now

OTIS EYEWEAR OMAR Code: 26-1801 Colourway: Matte Black RRP: $199.95 Available: Now

OAKLEY FROGSKINS XS Code: OJ9006-0553 Colourway: Matte Grey Ink/Prizm Sapphire RRP: $149.95 Available: Now

ARNETTE Code: 0AN4247__215283 Colourway: Havana Brown/Bronze Polarized RRP: $169.95 Available: October

OAKLEY FROGSKINS GRIPS COLLECTION Code: 009013-D855 Colourway: Crystal Black/Prizm Black RRP: $174.95 Available: Now

CARVE IVI Code: 3510 Colourway: Tort Polarized RRP: $59.99 Available: September

LIIVE VISION MOTO POLAR Code: L0603B Colourway: Matte Timber RRP$: 49.95 Available: August

REFRESH BY SPY+ HI-FI Code: 673512076764 Colourway: Matte Trans Olive/Grey RRP: $99.95 Available: August

CARVE HOMELAND Code: 3452 Colourway: Matt Honey Polarized RRP: $59.99 Available: September

VONZIPPER DITTY Code: SMPDITFTD Colourway: Frosted Tort Gloss RRP: $159.99 Available: Now

LIIVE VISION BASS Code: L0645A Colourway: Matte Tort RRP$: 59.95 Available: September

QUIKSILVER REKIEM FLOATABLE Code: EQYEY03100  Colourway: Matte Black RRP: $169.99   Available: Now

28/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

BUYERS’ GUIDE

WATC H E S

RIP CURL DRAKE LEATHER Code: A2898 Colourway: Bronze RRP: $199.99 Available: now

ROXY MESSENGER ACTIV Code: ERJWT03281 Colourway: Rose Gold RRP: $299.99   Available: August

NIXON PATROL SS Code: A1242-513 Colourway: Gold/Black RRP: $299.99 Available: August

NIXON RIVAL Code: A1236-000 Colourway: All Black RRP$: 199.99 Available: July

QUIKSILVER ADDICTIV PRO TIDE Code: EQYWD03006 Colourway: RRP$: Available:

VESTAL SOPHISTICATE Code: SP42M05.3GDX Colourway: Black/Gold 3 Link RRP: $550.00 Available: August

ROXY SLIMTIDE Code: ERJWD03290 Colourway: RRP$: Available:

VESTAL SOPHISTICATE METAL Code: SP42M09.3BKX Colourway: Black 3 Link RRP: $550.00 Available: August

RIP CURL SEARCH GPS Code: A1144 RRP: $399.99 Available: September

VESTAL RETROFOCUS CHRONO METAL Code: SLR44CM03.3BKM Colourway: Black/Black Tan 3 Link RRP: $449.00 Available: August

NIXON SIREN SS Code: A1211-1098 Colourway: Rose Gold/Black RRP: $179.99 Available: July

RIP CURL MAUI MINI TIDE Code: A1131G RRP: $199.99 Available: Now

30/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

PATAGONIA PLANING ROLL TOP PACK 35L Code: 48470-TOIB Colourway: Tiger Tracks Camo- Ink Black RRP: $179.95 Available: March

FCS  ROAM DAY PACK Code: ROAM-BLK-024 Colourway: Black RRP: $99.95 Available: September

DAKINE NETWORK 26L Code: 10002050 Colourway: Laurelwood RRP: $129.99 Available: January

ROXY FIELD OF ROSES Code: ERJBP03859 Colourway: Natural RRP: $59.99 Available: January

BUYERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; GUIDE

BAGS

GLOBE VENTURA DUFFLE Code: GB71819023 Colourway: Black/Tan RRP: $99.99 Available: October

RUSTY BOXED IN BACKPACK Code: BPM0320 Colourway: Blaze RRP: $39.99 Available: January

RIP CURL F-LIGHT TRANSIT LOLOMA Code: LTRHH1 Colourway: Multico RRP: $199.99 Available: February

RIP CURL THREADS DUFFLE CANVAS Code: LTRHW1 Colourway: Natural RRP: $79.99 Available: February

REEF DUFFELL 111 Code: L252 Colourway: Black RRP: $149.99 Available: January

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REEF L251 Code: Diamond Tail 111 Colourway: Black RRP: $139.99 Available: January

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BILLABONG LINE UP BEACH BAG Code: 6695102 Colourway: Honey Gold RRP: $39.99 Available: February

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VOLCOM EXCURSION BACKPACK Code: D6531641 Colourway: Melindigo RRP: $65.00 Available: January

GLOBE JAGGER III BACKPACK Code: GB71619016 Colourway: Black RRP: $64.99 Available: November

FCS MISSION TRAVEL PACK Code: MISN-BLK-040 Colourway: Black RRP: $189.95 Available: September

PATAGONIA LIGHTWEIGHT TRAVEL MINI HIP PACK Code: 49446-BALB Colourway: Balkan Blue RRP: $44.95 Available: March

BILLABONG LOWERS MULTICAM Code: 9795004 Colourway: Black Camo RRP: $199.99 Available: December

VOLCOM PATCH ATTACK MIDI Code: E6351876 Colourway: Vintage Black RRP: $55.00 Available: January

DAKINE CONCOURSE 25L Code: 10002047 Colourway: Black RRP: $129.99 Available: January

31/

BUYERS’ GUIDE

AUTUMN 2019 DENIM/PANTS

RIP CURL BEACH MISSION ELASTIC PANT Code: CPADS1 Colourway: Khaki RRP: $79.99 Available: February

BILLABONG FIFTY JEAN Code: 9595353 Colourway: Salt Water Rinse RRP: $99.99 Available: March

VOLCOM VSM GRITTER PLUS PANT Code: A1131806 Colourway: INDIGO RRP: $100.00 Available: March

ROXY MIDNIGHT DRIVE DENIM JACKET Code:ERJJK03279-BEZW Colourway:Bleached Blue RRP: $139.99 Available: January

PATAGONIA PERFORMANCE GI V PANTS – 32” Code: 55316-NVYB Colourway: Navy Blue RRP: $129.95 Available: March

RUSTY SLIM BOYFRIEND JEAN Code: PAL1091 Colourway: Vintage Black RRP: $99.99 Available: January

RES DENIM TRUE STRAIGHT Code: RD-WPN18212 Colourway: Birkin Blue RRP: $119.95 Available: April

RHYTHM FATIGUE PANT Code: JAN19M-PA04 Colourway: Olive RRP: $89.99 Available: January

BILLABONG SARAI JUMPSUIT Code: 6595433 Colourway: Ocean Wash RRP: $129.99 Available: January

LEVI 501 ORIGINAL Colourway: Deep Deep Warp RRP: $149.99 Available: August

LKI TORMENT DENIMS Code: L107C1003 Colourway: Light Indigo RRP: $109.99 Available: February

QUIKSILVER OG DENIM JACKET Code: EQYJK03466-BKJ0 Colourway: Salt Water RRP: $119.99 Available: March

32/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

RUSTY RELAXED BOYFRIEND COLOUR JEAN Code: PAL1081 Colourway: Army RRP: $99.99 Available: January

PATAGONIA STRAIGHT FIT CORDS Code: 55930-BENB Colourway: Bence Brown RRP: $129.95 Available: March

BILLABONG OUTSIDE CORD PANT Code: 9595301 Colourway: Light Khaki RRP: $89.99 Available: February

ROXY LETI PANT Code: ERJDP03214 Colourway: Retro Light Blue RRP: $99.99 Available: January

VOLCOM SOLVER DENIM Code: A1931503 Colourway: Dirt Track RRP: $100.00 Available: March

RHYTHM LINEN BEACH PANT Code: JAN19M-PA03 Colourway: Bone RRP: $79.99 Available: January

RIP CURL DUSK BEACH PANT Code: GPAEI1 Colourway: Light Blue RRP: $79.99 Available: February

QUIKSILVER OG DENIM PANT Code: EQYDP03398 Colourway: Salt Water RRP: $99.99 Available: March

GLOBE GOODSTOCK CHINO Code: GB01216010 Colourway: Stone RRP: $79.99 Available: Now

GLOBE G5 DION AGIUS SLIDER PANT Code: GB01736004 Colourway: Black RRP: $89.99 Available: Now

RES DENIM HARRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HI SKINNY Code: RD-WPN19239 Colourway: Blush Pink RRP: $119.95 Available: March

LKI MAJORITY CHINO PANT Code: L107C1008 Colourway: Latte RRP: $79.99 Available: February

33/

BUYERS’ GUIDE

AUTUMN 2019 SHIRTS

ROXY EMPIRE STATE VIEW Code: ERJWT03300 Colourway: Marshmallow Tropical Love – WBT7 RRP: $79.99 Available: February

RIP CURL WETTY CROP CREW Code: GFEIL1 Colourway: Rust RRP: $69.99 Available: February

PATAGONIA FJORD FLANNEL SHIRT Code: 53947-MILS Colourway: Migration Plaid Small: Light Sesame RRP: $119.95 Available: March

VOLCOM CADEN PLAID L/S Code: A0511905 Colourway: Burgundy RRP: $80.00 Available: March

RUSTY PALM SHORT SLEEVE SHIRT Code: WSM0854 Colourway: Navy Blue RRP: $69.99 Available: January

VOLCOM JONEZE L/S Code: A0511901 Colourway: Mushroom RRP: $70.00 Available: April

RIP CURL SAVAGE PAISLEY S/S SHIRT Code: CSHLZ1 Colourway: Maroon RRP: $69.99 Available: February

PATAGONIA FOUR CANYONS TWILL SHIRT Code: 53700-CARG Colourway: Cargo Green RRP: $129.95 Available: March

BILLABONG HONEY PIE SHIRT Code: 6595108 Colourway: Black RRP: $79.99 Available: April

GLOBE STRANDED SS SHIRT Code: GB1824008 Colourway: Milk RRP: $69.99 Available: November

BILLABONG SUNDAY STRIPE SHIRT Code: 6595111 Colourway: Mauve RRP: $59.99 Available: January

QUIKSILVER OG NYLON JACKET Code: EQYJK03473  Colourway: Stone Wash RRP: $99.99 Available: March

REEF ICE DIP 3 L/S SHIRT Code: A3FB3 Colourway: Black RRP: $89.99 Available: January

BILLABONG COASTLINE LS Code: 9595208 Colourway: Khaki RRP: $79.99 Available: March

GLOBE VIPER SS SHIRT Code: gb1824004 Colourway: Dusty Ocre RRP: $69.99 Available: November

RHYTHM VINTAGE ALOHA SS SHIRT Code: JAN19M-WT05 Colourway: Pacific Blue RRP: $79.99 Available: January

RHYTHM VACATION STRIPE SS SHIRT Code: JAN19M-WT06 Colourway: Vintage Mustard RRP: $79.99 Available: January

REEF COLD DIP 12 L/S SHIRT Code: A3FAM Colourway: Grey Heather RRP: $79.99 Available: January

BILLABONG WAVE WASHED CORD LS Code: 9595214 Colourway: Dark Forest RRP: $89.99 Available: March

34/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

W W W. A S B M AG .C O M

PROFESSIONAL EDITION ...WITH SIMON HASKELL , VP MARKET TRANSFORMATION AT LEVI STRAUSS & CO. This article is online now for our PROFESSIONAL EDITION subscribers. Not a member? Subscribe today at ASBMAG.COM for less than $2 a week.

Subscribe Online At:

WWW.ASBMAG.CO M

FEATURE ARTICLE / WORDS BRYAN DICKERSON

'The Dark Side of Denim' ASB investigates The State of Denim in the Surf Industry.

ARE THE DARK DAYS OF DENIM OVER? SYNOPSIS INTO THE PRODUCTION AND PROCESS OF DENIM MANUFACTURING AND WHAT SURF COMPANIES ARE DOING (AND NOT DOING) TO UPHOLD THEIR ETHOS. The state of denim in the surf wear industry is at a crossroads. Is it something where we’re willing to share a collective blind spot, like the petroleom needed to make surfboards? Or will it become the modern equivalent of surf wax wrapped in plastic - once ubiquitous but now heavily frowned upon. Here we are, the middle of 2018 wondering if The Dark Side of Denim days are over. While a handful of brands are keeping in line with their ethos and stepping up their offerings to meet the demand, others are asking whether such a relatively small segment of their lookbook is worth the expense and effort.

Saitex denim production facility in Vietnam.

36/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

Denim is dirty. And many brands don’t know what to do about it. Most surf companies have a position on sustainable sourcing and their supply chain because it’s bragging rights in an industry that prides itself on being green. But the production of a simple pair of jeans is confusing, complicated and fraught with human and environmental wreckage. Our favorite surf labels will produce up-cycled, recycled, sustainable boardshorts, wetsuits, hardgoods and even bottle openers - but few have mapped out a plan for jeans. And as these brands expand their denim offerings each season, they are having a hard time deciding how best to keep their green ethos while moving forward into this profitable category rife with eco-transgressions. Denim is a huge business. Globally it accounted for more than $100 billion in sales in 2017. In Australia ActionWatch estimates the total surf denim market was $12 million AUD that same year. The research, gathered from a panel of participating core specialty store retailers POS systems, found that surf retailers moved an estimated 114,570 units of denim. Stores turned over $18K on average in denim in 2017 accounting for 8.5% of all men’s and women’s apparel sales with the average denim item price point at $73. The profit for denim is there. But production is not as easy as launching organic cotton T-Shirts or using recycled bottles or coconut husks to make high-performance fabric that then becomes this season’s marquee boardie. The supply chain for a pair of jeans is lengthier, more grueling and ultimately more toxic. “Kelly said to a reporter before we ever launched a product that we would never make denim,” recalls John Moore, Founder and Chief Creative Officer of Outerknown. “That was because we really didn’t think that we would ever be able to make them up to our sustainability standards. So we actually launched Outerknown saying we would never do denim. Denim is such an integral part of our lifestyle, but the truth is that it’s one of the filthiest manufacturing processes that exists in apparel.” Why is denim so gnarly? First there’s growing the cotton, then picking, then ginning, then spinning, then warp-dyeing, then weaving, then cutting and stitching the damn garment and finally distressing and finishing - with several wash cycles in between. Along the way you have pesticides, herbicides, toxic dyes, chemical runoff, worker issues and finally increased CO2 output. Turning plastic bottles into boardshorts is a walk in the park compared to making a pair of jeans sustainably.

Outerknowns newly launched Social Environmental Accountability denim project.

Original dungaree cloth made by Levi Strauss for wagons and tents in the 1870s (and later cut into work jeans by partner Jacob Davis) were derived from a tough fabric made by weavers in Nimes, France who tried to reproduce the famed corduroy of Genoa Italy and failed. In the process they produced fabric that became known as cloth from Nimes or “de Nimes” in French with “jeans” being a mutilation of the Italian city’s name. Fast forward a century and the laborious production process has, like all things textile, modernized while denim jeans themselves have become as iconic as Elvis’ pompadour. The once excruciatingly difficult production process is now faster and cheaper, but as we keep re-learning, faster and cheaper can be quite expensive in other ways. For starters cotton is a bitch to grow. The plant needs more water than the average crop, anywhere from 8,000 to 20,000 litres for one plant to grow from seed to harvest. In addition pests love it. One report found that up to 22% of the world’s agricultural insecticides are focused on cotton’s white tufts (which aren’t flowers by the way but pollen tubes similar to the silk found around ears of corn). And much of the crops are treated with Chlorpyrifos, a chemical in the same class as Sarin gas.

Once the cotton is harvested there’s the extensive energy required to turn it into the tough thread needed for denim. In many countries where denim is made, China and India most notably, the energy intensive process is powered with fossil fuels including coal. Once the material is ready it’s dyed with synthetic indigo in a water-intensive process requiring washing, leaching, dying and more washing. The resulting runoff if untreated - and it is mostly untreated - destroys waterways adjacent to the factories. 56 billion litres of contaminated water produced in Bangledesh go straight into the water supply each year. A blackened foamcovered river runs through Xintang, a place known as “China’s Jeans Town,” which produces more than 200 million pairs of jeans each year. Greenpeace reported approximately 1.7 million tons of chemicals go into producing roughly two billion pairs of jeans every year. The resulting carbon output is 6,000 grams for each pair of denim pants which results in an estimated 2,700,000 metric tons of CO2 each year just from the production of jeans. The chemical process and runoff is compounded when you factor in distressed jeans - you know, to make them look worn in and faded - which are created through a chemical and laborintensive process.

“KELLY SAID TO A REPORTER BEFORE WE EVER LAUNCHED A PRODUCT THAT WE WOULD NEVER MAKE DENIM. THAT WAS BECAUSE WE REALLY DIDN’T THINK THAT WE WOULD EVER BE ABLE TO MAKE THEM UP TO OUR SUSTAINABILITY STANDARDS.” - JOHN MOORE, OUTERKNOWN

37/

“CUSTOMERS ARE RIGHTLY BEGINNING TO ASK MORE QUESTIONS AND HAVE AN EXPECTATION FOR A BRAND TO WALK THE TALK, AND BEHAVE AS A RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS, RATHER THAN ‘GREENING’ ONLY AN ELEMENT OF THEIR BUSINESS OR PRODUCT LINE.” - DEBORAH LUFFMAN, FINISTERRE PRODUCT DIRECTOR

And who is making your jeans? In Micha Peled’s documentary “China Blue” there’s footage of workers putting closepins on their eyelids to stay awake to finish their lengthy factory shifts. The Uzbek-German Forum for Human Rights (UGF), a German-based nongovernmental organization, found as recently as 2017 that a state-sponsored system of forced labor was still being used in some manufacturing. So it’s understandable that surf companies are reluctant to jump in and navigate this labyrinth from cotton field-to-retail shelf. At press time Quiksilver, RVCA, Rusty and Billabong didn’t respond to email queries regarding their denim offerings. Hurley’s Evan Slater stated that the company wasn’t doing denim at the present time. Stokehouse Australia’s General Manager John Mossop said VISSLA offers denim but that they are looking for a more sustainable production model. “Our key focus in sustainable apparel has been more focused on key categories such as boardshorts, where we are upcycling waste materials like coconut husks and plastic bottles,” said Mossop. “We also have similar sustainability programs running in categories including walkshorts, wovens and knits. I can not say we have been successful yet, but we are more than keen to explore any of the new sustainability initiatives in denim.” Denim also doesn’t bring in as much revenue as boardshorts. Surfers will often opt for denim outside of the surf retail sphere while conversely they would never set foot in an H&M store to buy a pair of boardies. So spending company resources on a small category isn’t a priority for many and sustainable goals tend to get focused on the bigger lines. Mossop confirmed that denim only accounted for a small percentage of the VISSLA lookbook while at Rip Curl, Mimi LaMontagne admitted the same.

38/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

“Many of our larger categories feature recycled products, such as our Search Series in Mountainwear” said LaMontagne. “Denim is currently a very small portion of our business, and as it grows we will continue to look into finding ways to become more sustainable in this category.” Rip Curl, who fatefully discovered that some of its ski gear labeled “Made in China” had actually been made in North Korea, has taken measures to ensure its supply chain is now more transparent. And it’s working. The company received a B+ score on the 2018 Ethical Fashion Report while a handful of the other major surf players scored a C rating. As it relates to the labor-intensive process of jeans production, Volcom and a handful of others are leading the surf brands, with V-Co having just become a fully accredited member of the Fair Labor Association. To do so the company had to adopt and communicate workplace standards, conduct internal assessments and provide workers with confidential channels to report abuses. “We are actively addressing our environmental and social impacts with a commitment to responsible manufacturing practices, better fiber sourcing, robust impact evaluation, and meaningful givebacks on a global level,” said Ryan Immegart, Volcom CMO. When asked if customers are calling more for supply chain transparency or just a “good fit at a good price” Immegart said it varies a lot by customer. “Depends on the channel, every customer wants it (sustainable denim), but some aren’t willing to pay more for it. We are working tirelessly to bring the most sustainable products to the market at an accessible price point.” The second largest seller (behind Rusty) of women’s denim to Australia’s core shops is RES Denim who were purchased last year by Lush Productions.

“We monitor our customers feedback and enquiries very closely,” said Hannah Maher, Lush’s Marketing Strategist. “Since acquiring the brand, we have only had one customer enquiry regarding our environmental impact and sustainability practices, so I guess the demand is not high from our customers at this stage.” Maher added that the company is taking steps to improve their manufacturing processes which includes reevaluating many of their past supplier relationships and production. “As a business we are environmentally conscious and would like to extend this to our manufacturing processes however remain mindful of the factors that drive us to deliver on quality and a competitive price for our customers.” Which leads us to the question of just how much surfers would pay for a pair of ethical jeans? The sustainability gold standard was set by a company from outside of the surf industry - and it comes with a hefty price tag. Where many companies claim green status by address just one or two steps in the lengthy jean-making process, Dutch company G-Star Raw addressing all of them. They start with 100 percent organic cotton, responsibly and open-sourced denim fabric using natural indigo dye with minimal chemicals and no salts. Then the jeans are made using recycled water in the washing and rinsing process, air dried to save energy, and all sewn together using fair labor practices. The company even produces buttons without toxins. The jeans range in price from $140 to $470AUD. By comparison, a new pair of RVCA jeans will set you back roughly $80AUD. Most surf brands have shied away from jumping into the sustainable deep end, but a few have embraced the challenge to live up to their sustainable ethos and tackle these issues. Dane O'Shanassy, Patagonia Director for Australia & New Zealand said more and more customers are demanding to know how their clothes are made and where they come from. As a result Patagonia has gone a step further, insisting on educating their customer base around the materials and processes that go into making their denim products. “Our sourcing begins with using 100% organic cotton to create the textile,” said O’Shanassy. “A low impact dying process enables us to dramatically reduce water, energy and chemical use and produce less carbon dioxide. We also never distress our denim with harsh chemicals or other methods. Our denim is Fair Trade Certified for sewing.” But that’s from surfing’s flagship sustainable brand, so it makes sense they’d go the same distance to produce clean denim that they would to make a petroleum-free wetsuit.

“It’s definitely an ongoing journey in educating consumers not to particpate in the fast fashion (product) cycle and to deliberately choose quality products in favour of a cheaper price point,” said Roswell. “I feel that consumers are starting to become more aware that these principles are all connected, and that’s a good thing for everyone.” Deborah Luffman at Finisterre agreed, noting other industries like food production are required to have total transparency, but that the clothing industry still has a long way to go.

U.K. eco-surf brand Finisterre follows Patagonia’s field-to-boutique sustainability model but states they don’t have a “one size fits all” approach to sustainability in denim (or any other category). “When it comes to denim we make product in the UK and in China,” said Product Director Deborah Luffman. “UK manufacturing suits the organic selvedge and raw denim styles, which require no washing or finishing and suit our UK manufacturer handwriting, however the other organic denim styles are made in China, as the mills and manufacturer have more technical capabilities for dying and finishing denim.” Finisterre have found that navigating a denimhungry market that’s slowly evolving its ethos is best done by heading off the chemical and pollution components to jeans manufacturing. “Our focus is on minimising the use of chemicals and water during the dying stage of denim production, so we don’t believe in distressing, bleaching or deliberately ageing denim,” added Luffman. “When we do want to achieve a lighter wash we use enzymes, which break down the pigment in the dye, which require less washing, are biodegradable and do not linger in the water supply. Water is the biggest impact from the denim dying production, from both the indigo dying and colour fixing stage of the denim process. All water used from the denim dying and finishing process is passed through on-site filtration treatment and the water is recycled.” “Other denim washing techniques such as labour intensive stone and bleach require more washes, more power, and often use non-degradable chemicals.”

Last year Levi’s teamed up with Slater’s brand to create a capsule collection that was startto-finish sustainable using the jean giant’s Wellthread collection. This subset of Levi’s uses organic cotton, less water, fair labor and a single-fiber strategy that makes the denim clothing article fully recyclable (either reusing the material, or chemically reconstituting it), including buttons, labels and snaps. Priced at $170-$250 AUD Outerknown’s entry into the sustainable denim market was limited to two jackets and one jean. But as we went to press Outerknown announced the launch of S.E.A. Jeans with promises that the supply chain will be totally transparent and the jeans made with 100% organic cotton from the field and follow all pertinent sustainability models. One of the most exciting elements in this development is the factory that will produce the denim as it signals a new textile landscape populated with sustainable denim sources. “We’re proudly working with Saitex in Vietnam,” said John Moore. “Saitex recycles 98% of the water used in development, and the other 2% is turned into sludge that they can make into building bricks. They also harvest rain water, air dry 85% of their jeans to save energy, and their factory is solar-powered.” As we move forward and more sustainable options emerge, one sticking point is still consumer habits. Nicky Roswell, Levi’s Marketing Manager for Australia and New Zealand, explained the biggest challenge to sustainable denim in the market place is the consumer’s addiction to fast fashion.

“The production of clothing is very complex, it involves so many processes, and that can be hard to communicate to the consumer, unlike the food industry which is ahead in explaining how things are made and where things come from,” said Luffman. “There is a lack of transparency from brands resulting in a lack of understanding from consumers; meaning customers are unable to decipher which brands are sustainable and which are just green washing.” Luffman believes a wave of educated consumers is on their way and will force companies to change. “Customers are rightly beginning to ask more questions and have an expectation for a brand to walk the talk, and behave as a responsible business, rather than ‘greening’ only an element of their business or product line.” And greenwashing is rampant. Every fast fashion brand has a green or sustainable page on their website regardless of whether they are implementing measures in sustainability or not. From the incredibly vague and non-action oriented GAP proclamation “We perform life cycle assessments to understand environmental impacts for the entire process,” to H&M setting a goal to become climate positive by 2040. In each instance there are no direct supply chain actions toward sustainability. “I would like to believe all of our fans care deeply about responsible manufacturing practices,” added John Moore. “Let’s be brutally honest, when you are buying something, it has to look really good. Period. So customers are looking at so many factors; the colors, the wash, the fit, the quality and most definitely the price tag. Does it all add up to something they want to buy?”

Huffman said that Finisterre is currently investigating dry-dye and ozone dying, which has the potential to dye and fix denim using no water at all.

“I CAN NOT SAY WE HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFUL YET,

For Kelly Slater’s brand Outerknown, the daunting task of doing denim sustainably first came about with some help from the people who basically invented jeans, Levi’s.

OF THE NEW SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES IN DENIM.”

BUT WE ARE MORE THAN KEEN TO EXPLORE ANY - JOHN MOSSOP, VISSLA AUSTRALIA GENERAL MANAGER 39/

ActionWatch INSIGHTS ANALYSIS OF SALES GROWTH, PRICEPOINTS AND WATCHES

ActionWatch Insights is only a snapshot of top line results from our ActionWatch Oz Retail panel. For comprehensive brand, style and category reports contact keith@actionwatch.com

INSIGHT DATA SUNGLASSES AVG $ PER STORE

UNIT SALES & AVG UNITS IN INVENTORY

MAY 2017 TO MAY 2018

PER STORE SELLING SUNGLASSES MAY 2017 TO MAY 2018

$15K

250

$12K

200

$9K

150

$6K

100

$3K

8 r1

ay M

18 M

pt Se

g Au

ay M

8 r1

ay M

ar M

18 n

17 c

7 t1

ov N

n Ju

The average store on the panel earned revenue of almost $14,000 from sunglass sales in December 2017 and dropped down to just over $2,800 in May.

In the slower sunglass sales months of May and June only about 10% of average inventory was sold while 51% of average inventory was sold in December.

PERCENTAGE OF UNITS SOLD

TOP SUNGLASS STYLES

JAN-MAY 2018 (BY PRICE RANGE)

JAN-DEC 2017 VS JAN-MAR 2018 (IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER) TOP STYLES Q3 2018

Brand $ Share

AVG Price

Oakley - HOLBROOK

6.6%

$208

$30-45

Oakley - TURBINE

4.0%

$244

$45-55

Dragon - REMIX

3.7%

$195

$55-70

Oakley - TURBINE ROTOR

3.1%

$249

$70-100

Dragon - THE JAM

3.0%

$198

$100-200

Oakley - BATWOLF

2.4%

$229

$200-300

Dragon - MONARCH

2.0%

$183

Otis - YOUNG BLOOD

1.9%

$184

Oakley - LATCH

1.9%

$198

Oakley - DOUBLE EDGE

1.7%

$242

A much higher percentage of sunglass units were sold in the $50-$75 price range so far this year compared to the same time period last year, continuing a trend from the previous year. This price category jumped from 10% of units sold in 2015 up to 27% of units sold this year.

40/ Australian Surf Business Magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x192; issue #83

DENIM AVG $ PER STORE

WATCHES AVG $ PER STORE

MAY 2017 TO MAY 2018

MAY 2017 TO MAY 2018 Men

Women

$6K

$2000

$5K $1500

$4K $3K

$1000

$2K $500

$1K

pt 17 Oc t1 7 N ov 17 De c 17 Ja n 18 Fe b 18 M ar 18 Ap r1 8 M ay 18

Ju l

Ju n

ay M

Ap r

18 b

ar 1

Ja n

De c

ov N

7 t1

Oc t

Se p

7 l1

Au g

17 n

17 ay

July 2017 was the peak denim sales month during the 13-month period shown and the average store earned revenue of close to $1,600 from men's/boys' denim sales and just over $500 from sales of women's/girls' denim.

Watch sales in the average store on the panel were highest in December, and declined to less than $1,000 of Avg $ Sales in May 2018.

DENIM SALES GROWTH

WATCH STATISTICS

YEAR-OVER-YEAR

JAN-MAY 2018

Male -23%

Female -11%

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

AVERAGE SALES

AVERAGE PRICE

$7,112

$202

AVERAGE MARGIN

AVERAGE UNIT SALES

45%

Year-over-year sales were consistently down for male-gender denim sales in the first five months of 2018, but women's/girls' denim sales decline was less than half of male denim sales declines.

TOP WATCH STYLES JAN-MAY 2018 (IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER)

DENIM REVENUE BY GENDER JAN-MAY 2018 (AVG $ SALES)

Men ($3,588) Women ($1,998) Boys ($435) Girls ($13)

TOP STYLES Q3 2018

AVG Price

Nixon - 51-30 CHRONO

$534

Nixon - SENTRY SS

$310

Rip Curl - RIFLES TIDE

$247

Nixon - CORPORAL SS

$263

Nixon - SENTRY LEATHER

$209

Nixon - SENTRY CHRONO

$398

Rip Curl - RIFLES MIDSIZE PU

$175

Rip Curl - SEARCH GPS

$270

Nixon - KENSINGTON

$199

Nixon - PORTER LEATHER

$203

41/

FEATURE ARTICLE / WORDS ASB

How to become a stocktake ninja &

take back control of your inventory. Not doing stocktakes is a recipe for disaster and means you’re running blind as a retailer - learn how to do a better job.

LIKE A DECAFFEINATED 24-HOUR MONDAY, STOCKTAKES ARE DREADED BY EVERYONE FROM TOP MANAGEMENT ON DOWN TO THE NEW INTERN. YOUR STORE COULD BE OPEN, SELLING OR ANY NUMBER OF OTHER PRODUCTIVE THINGS YOU DO TO KEEP IN THE BLACK. BUT NOT ON STOCKTAKE DAY. Whether you like it or not, at some point you have to stop and count your inventory. ASB tapped the deep well of knowledge accumulated over the years by author Greg Gorter of Ocean Road Agencies and Osipos. Learn how to navigate this retail beast and also take in a quick hit of 10 must-dos this time of year. Your business will be better for it.

ASB: When is the best time to stocktake? Greg Gorter: That’s a good question, but a moot point as there are various opinions on this subject - mainly the timing and necessity of it all. Essentially, in today’s retail environment I would be doing at least two major stocktakes per year. I’d do the first stocktake after the Christmas/New Year period, say mid-to-late January and the second one as close to the EOFY as possible.

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The reasons for this are; 1) You’ll know what stock you’re holding immediately after Christmas and the New Year, which are traditionally the busiest times for retailers. Due to the nature of this time of year most retailers’ focus is only on selling and more often than not procedures such as correct admin/stock control are often second priority. If a stocktake is done on this time schedule, it will give the retailer an idea of what stock will need to be on sale or cleared out prior to the main drops of Autumn hitting the shop floor. 2) The second stocktake should always be as close to the EOFY as possible. This will give the retailer a final EOFY count and a final EOFY accurate accounting analysis of stock turns for the business. Retailers can then go into the new financial year with an accurate opening stock count and figure.

A final note on timing, cycle counting should be done throughout the year on certain stock categories. Pin-pointing areas such as footwear, eyewear and accessories is a good way to avoid over buying issues in these categories, as well as analysing trend stock lines that can mount up in stock quantities and value. As well as this, cycle counting is a good way of ensuring accurate stock levels by rotating the cycle count throughout your categories and brands. ASB: What is it about the Osipos system that makes stocktake a breeze? I think the best way to describe why it’s such a breeze is that we have a “process” and the way we structure that process gives the retailer confidence in accuracy. If they follow the OsiPOS Stocktake Process they can’t go wrong. Every part of our stocktake module has a purpose, or as I like to say to all my OsiPOS clients, “there’s method in my madness” – meaning that once you go through and grasp our easy stocktake process, as a retailer and owner, you’ll understand what proper stocktaking is all about. We pride ourselves on a seamless process, but an accurate one. We try to make it a “turnkey process” whilst applying a true and tried methodology within the approach to stocktakes. Once our retailers see the process, they love it. It’s accurate. It’s organised, and it gives them accurate results! No guesswork! ASB: What are some of the nightmare and inventory issues stores will encounter by not doing a proper stocktake? Essentially, if you are not implementing a regular stocktake regime you will be running blind as a retailer. Since 2014 the surf industry has implemented a four-times-per-year buying cycle, and now more than ever the surf retailer needs to get on top of his or her stock control and know what and how much stock they have. It’s a crucial part of today’s retail business. Added to this, if you don’t do stocktakes or regular cycle counts, how are you going to know what your future buys and budgets should be? Are you possibly paying too much or too little GST on your bottom line by inaccurate reporting? Are your sold versus SOH Inventory levels even accurate? Not doing stocktakes is a recipe for disaster. Not knowing what stock you have and how accurate it is, could see a business potentially close its doors. You may not see it clearly in the first year by not doing a stocktake, but by the second and third year, you’re overstocked, you’re missing stock, you’re shrinkage/theft is out of control – all of which will eventually come back to bite you on the bum! The way retail is at the moment and its competitive nature nowadays, I could not imagine why a retailer would not do stocktakes. ASB: Who are some of the best surf stores at running a stocktake? Since 1997 the crew at Rip Curl have been running a good stocktake act. I was mostly responsible back in the day for implementing the original “Rip Curl Stocktake Process & Procedures Manual” and since then the crew have for a large part kept the same methodology throughout. The OsiPOS Stocktake module software has changed dramatically since then however, giving all OsiPOS retailers a lot more flexibility with the stocktake process. Mike Di Sciascio from Strapper Surfboards in Victoria as well as the likes of Island Surfboards, Red Herring Surf, Tasmania and Beach Beat in Queensland are just a few of our other clients who have been strong in stocktaking and stock control.

ASB: Why are they the best ? I think right from the start these guys have been good business operators in the industry. They’ve been around for quite some time now and they know the game well and so they know what it means to have a good solid grasp of their stock control procedures, part of which is implementing a good stocktake process. They will never say “we can’t afford to do stocktakes.” Rather the opposite, they believe that regular stocktakes and stock control is part of knowing how to handle stock, which is part and parcel of running a good surf business. In addition, I think the thing that stands them out amongst the others is that they’re willing to invest in their inventory systems. But more importantly, they’re willing to spend time with their systems and utilise the tools we give them that ultimately helps keep them in business!

10 Steps to a Successful Stocktake Approach - do a better job with this quick list. • The most important aspect of any successful stocktake is to have your stock and staff organised properly in advance prior to the day of your stocktake.  • A clean and well-organised store or warehouse is a priority before stocktakes can be done. Have any back storerooms, shipping containers, underneath counters and so on 100% sorted before you begin.  • Avoid opening your store during a stocktake. This is not only bad form in front of your customers, but opens the door for inaccuracy for those trying to count and serve customers at the same time.  • Make sure that you have adequate staffing levels to help you through stocktake. Try to balance the time it takes to do your stocktakes with staff wages.  • Perform your stocktakes on one of the quietest days of the week and schedule the stocktake so that it has minimal affect financially on the business.  • Set goals and list priorities for your store managers and staff before stocktake starts to ensure some accountability make sure everyone gets the store organised and ready for stocktakes.  • Make sure that you know where your stock is. Hidden or missed stock in stocktakes is never acceptable. Your goal is to ensure 100% accuracy in your stocktake count.  • Ensure that you get your staff involved in the process and that your staff are trained correctly in the use of the stocktake equipment, stocktake scanners, as well as implementing a proper checking and double-checking routine. This should be a priority during the process.  • Be certain that each and every bit of your stock control admin and paperwork is up to date prior to the stocktake day. All outstanding invoicing and credits should be processed correctly and put through your system before you start scanning your stock.  • Make sure that your stocktake is truly accurate, check the stocktake results and investigate any issues with double counts and missed stock. Also, check that everything is done properly and that your POS/Inventory system is up to date with the latest program.

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44/ Australian Surf Business Magazine issue #83

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7/12/18 10:17 P

FEATURE ARTICLE / WORDS BRIAN WALKER

TALKING SHOP – THE RETAIL DOCTOR

Building Your Story in Surf Retail “AND THOUGH I'VE LIVED TO BE AN OLD MAN WITH MY VERY OWN SHARE OF HAPPINESS FOR ALL THE MESS I MADE, I STILL JUDGE EVERY JOYOUS MOMENT, EVERY VICTORY AND REVELATION AGAINST THOSE FEW SECONDS OF LIVING” - TIM WINTON, BREATH I have had the pleasure of seeing quite a bit of surf retail over the years. Partially for working purposes and mostly because I love the lifestyle, sport, activity being even religion of surfing, and so I wanted to share why the growing need to be a storyteller in retail and surf retail matters increasingly. So a question as a starting point. Why is some surf retail a reflection of what it is to be a surfer, and some just racks of product? Recently, I commented on the growth of a divide in consumers’ shopping habits – or to be more precise the distinction between consumers buying product, predicated upon speed, scale, convenience, price, range, fulfilment and increasingly data and predictive analytics. This is the very heartland of online retail or to be more distinctive, that of Amazon or Alibaba, muscling up on global retail steroids. The science of retail if you like, although with motivations that lie far beyond buying and selling products. Perhaps five years ago, save the comment on data, and I might have been referring to discount department store retailing or similar and that still applies, however less so as they seek to constantly drive their relevance in an increasingly crowded marketplace, physical buying warehouses caught in the divide. And out of this disruption, change, innovation or whatever you care to label it, comes the noble art of shopping on the other side of the divide, something that luxury, premium retail has understood since Guccio Gucci served his first customer. The human emotion of attraction, weaved into aspiration, lust, desire, want, expressed as theatre, innovation of brand and product, the passion of brilliant service and the story that magnetises tribes.

Sounds pretty simple in its delineation doesn’t it? Yet many retailers appear to confuse the two, and between commoditization and customisation is the slippery slope to becoming bland. 150 + square metres of racks and products competing on price and not the human emotion of shopping accelerants is essentially buying with steep overheads (and getting steeper). Let me provide one example when I speak about a retailer’s story. Human brains are wired for stories. But what is a story? Mark Twain’s first rule of writing was “that a tale shall accomplish something and arrive somewhere.” Stories connect events and create meaning; they also connect people to each other. “Stories make community, make one feel they belong to something.” wrote novelist Leslie Marmon Silko. Now I am the last person to provide a lesson in literature, however what does a story look like in retail terminology? It’s essentially the central part of a retailer’s brand DNA expressed emotionally across the physical touchpoints, most notably the in shop experience. It’s depending upon the category, the passion of style, romance, fitness, coolness – from athleisure to fashion. I started this story by saying that I see a lot of independent surf retailers and sometimes I wonder what that surf retailer’s story is as represented in their store experience?

environment created? What is the story and how has each category provided the chapter to each category? Sometimes you see a surf retailer who has a clear defining story to their brand and expressed in their shop, and it makes perfect sense - you just don’t want to go anywhere else as a customer. It’s the retailing embodiment of being a surfer. If you wish to build, develop or refine your shopping destination strategy. • Develop your story, born out of your inspiration • Prepare to make your shop tactile and inspirational, the heartbeat of your brand • Innovate and invest - this is the window to invest, dial up the fixtures, graphics, messaging and customer database • “Interaction” with your customers before “transaction” • Consider what you can customise, be unique in and centre your customer’s shopping experience in “getting” your brand DNA and offer • Consider community and coverage to your footprint more so than sales per square metre, stock density or fit-out costs per lineal metre • Be prepared to invest in your story and to sacrifice the classic “every square metre must have stock all over it” within your physical shop After all, we can read about you and buy online. Bringing your story to life is the art of being a “fit’ retailer. No better way to grow your brand than to own your story. It’s the best fit in retail.

How are they storytelling and building their tribe in one of the truly great individual and tribe passions in the world? What is the creed of that shop, how are they showcasing their passion, their DNA, from sponsorship to just amazing graphics through to teaching and inspiring their aspirational audience – essentially what is the shopping

Happy ‘Surf ’ Fit for Retailing. Brian Walker is Founder and CEO of Retail Doctor Group and can be contacted on (02) 9460 2882 or brian@retaildoctor.com.au.

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