Book for presentation by kellyt

insider

J U LY - N OV E M B E R 1 4 vol. 1 issue 1

[V I E Q U E S ]

CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES

CYCLE OF LIFE G I F TS F RO M TH E SEA

20 P.39- 42

BEACHES TO EXPLORE

ESSENTIAL GUIDE INSIDE!

P.24-25

VQS017 LEATHERBACK RETURNS TO PLAYA GRANDE P. 45-47

EL BLOK P.21-23

BUSINESS PHONE DIRECTORY P.30

What happens in Vieques...

Publico = Taxi Van

Vieques nickname “Isla Nena” • Little Girl Island

Malecon = Esplanade or boardwalk (oceanfront Esperanza)

Population (in 2010) • Total 9,301

No-see-ums = sandflies that come out at sunsetand they bite!

Esperanza means Hope

VIEQUES Esperanza 21 miles

gas stations

4 miles

GOOD TO KNOW

Isabel II (locals refer to as “town”)

experience ylang ylang Stand in front of the ATM at Banco Popular in Isabel II. Inhale deeply. To your left is a Ylang Ylang tree-valued for its fragrant flowers.

well, you know the rest. Welcome to summer, where, in Vieques, things slow down and heat up! If you are visiting for the first time – Bienvenidos (welcome)! Vieques moves at a different pace than many parts of the world. You are now on “island time” and here, people really do stop to smell the ylang ylang. Time is determined by the movement of life, not the hands of a clock. Moments are presented as gifts... moments to practice being, breathing, reflecting, enjoying! Here, an ever-present sun awakens you with a rooster’s crow, the smell of fresh bread, and the taste of amazing coffee. The sky-searing colors of El Sol’s evening descent begins a new adventure filled with tropical libations, exotic cuisine, Latin rhythms and nature’s call of the coquí. Allow yourself to unplug and unwind, to set aside that ticking clock and tap into the flow of a unique energy that is Isla Nena. Sun, sea, time and tide. It is for you to decide. 3

C O N S E R VA T I O N

Green Vieques

VISITOR’S POINT OF VIEW

MEDICAL NOTES

Brooklyn to Vieques

ON THE WATER LIFE’S A TRIP P. 2 1 - 2 3

B I O B AY WA T C H

Steps to Preservation

FAC E S O F V I E Q U E S

Barbarita and Flavio

32-33

Doctors, Dentists, and Pharmacies

M O T H E R N AT U R E

Be “In the Know”

37-39 SPORT

Shoot for the Moon

44-45

H E A LT H Y L I V I N ’

Run Vieques

DOCTORS ORDERS

Rehydrate

THOSE CRAZY KIDS

49-51

ISLAND HOME

Casa Karma

Puerto Rico Flag by John Towne. On display at the Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery.

PA S T I M E S

Dominos

LOV E STO R I E S

Romance, Bewilderment, and Awesome Radiance

OUT N ABOUT

PHONE DIRECTORY 34-35 RESTAURANT GUIDE 64 EVENT CALENDAR 65 BEACH GUIDE 66-67

PHOTO BY: SANDRA MUDGE

WELCOME TO

Vieques “Isla Nena” • Little Girl Island Population (2010) • Total 9,301

VIEQUES

4 miles

Isabel II

Esperanza 21 miles

San Juan International (SJU) to VQS starting at $109 one way TOTAL COST: $109-$140 / 30 minute flight Isla Grande Airport (SIG) to VQS 10 minute cab ride from SJU-aprox. $20 Airfare starting at $72 one way TOTAL COST: Aprox $95-$120 / 17 minute flight

SJU SIG Isla Grande Airport

FAJARDO PUERTO RICO

RVR Ceiba Airport

getting here

Ceiba Airport (RVR) to VQS Aprox 1hr cab ride from San Juan to Ceiba $100 plus airfare starting at $34 one way / 7 minute flight Note: Publico Vans are located right outside baggage claim at SJU and can seat up to 10-12 people. Cost is per trip, not per person. TOTAL COST: Starting at $134 / 7 minute flight

VIEQUES

FLIGHT OR FERRY

San Juan International (SJU) to Fajardo Ferry to Vieques 1 hour cab ride to Fajardo ferry port $100 (aprox) â&#x20AC;˘ Ferry ticket $2 Vans can seat up to 10 people. Cost is per trip, not per person. [ Be prepared to wait or possibly be bumped if ferry is full! Vieques residents are seated first. It is not uncommon for the ferry to be late] TOTAL COST: Aprox $102 / 1 hour+ ferry

2 014 MOON CALENDAR 1

JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Good to Know Many visitors think that Vieques is a sleepy, laid back island where you can sleep in your hammock on the beach without a care in the world. For the most part, this is true. But petty theft is everywhere and your vacation can end badly without some precaution and common sense. Be mindful that things (like cameras, wallets, computers) have a way of growing legs and walking off if not attended to. Follow some safety tips and always be aware of your surroundings and belongings.

The company with the newest and largest fleet. And great prices!

Maritza’s

We ta ke p ri d e in yo u r ri d e.

Car rental

ALWAYS lock the doors where you are staying. Period. First floor, second floor, every door. NEVER leave valuables unattended to. DON’T take valuables to the beach.

DON’T leave a cell phone or iPad charging next to an open window. Never leave house keys next to a window. USE COMMON SENSE when walking around at night. Never walk on the beaches alone after dark.

www.maritzascarrental.com Only car rental company with VQS airport counter Courtesy Van Service Largest, Newest fleet on the island 2015 Jeeps (four door and two door) Locally owned and operated Durangos offered for large groups

locations

DON’T lock your car at the beach. Leave it open with nothing in it.

Main Office

787.741.0078 787.741.1666

Vieques airpOrt terMinal

787.741.0700

#1 PIRATE’S COVE OR EL TANQUE

LA CHIVA # 1 - 15 LA PLATA >

JENNIFER TEETER

LA CHIVA # 15 - 21

NAMES, IDENTITY, AND HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE Names, derived from cultural roots, historical events, family heritage, or spiritual beliefs form an important part of history and define our mental map of the world and its value. During the time of the U.S. Navy occupation of Vieques the beaches were renamed based on colored flags placed on them for training exercises. The English words, Red, Blue, Green and Purple, became the Navy assigned names and they stuck. When the U.S. Navy closed their base and military operations in Vieques, 3,100 acres of land were transferred to Fish and Wildlife Services (FWS) in 2001 and the rest in 2003 totalling 20,000 acres, which makes Vieques the second largest natural protection and conservation area in all of Puerto Rico.

Set in motion by elders and community leaders from Vieques, the effort is underway to reclaim the former names of the beaches and restore their cultural significance and longevity. It will take time. Internet sites and publications still use the Navy names of beaches and you will hear many islanders still using the English names as well. But while you are here, please paint the mental map in your mind with the original Spanish names. The English names are listed on the right for your reference to the pull out map on the inside back cover. Thank you for participating in this milestone effort by honoring and using the original Spanish names of the beautiful beaches of Vieques.

HISTORICAL & LOCAL NAMES FORMER U.S. NAVY NAMES CARACAS / RED BEACH PLAYUELA / GARCIA BEACH PATA PRIETA / SECRET BEACH LA CHIVA / BLUE BEACH LA PLATA / ORCHID BEACH PUNTA ARENAS / GREEN BEACH CAMPAÑA / PURPLE BEACH MATIAS / YELLOW BEACH

BASEBALL, BABE RUTH, AND THE NAMING OF BRAVOS DE BOSTON

BRAVOS DE BOSTON

In the 1920’s the popularity of baseball was exploding all over the world, and Vieques was no exception. The excitement was largely due to “the Bambino” or “the Sultan of Swat”, Babe Ruth himself who dominated the era and the bat. He retired in 1935 after a short time on the Boston Braves team. In 1948 baseball spirit was high and the Boston Braves were now going for the National League Pennant.

Viequenses and the local radio station followed and cheered the young Braves from Boston who had had such dismal previous seasons during the time of World War II. The Boston Braves were the underdogs still looking for that sweet spot and Viequenses could relate. Meanwhile, on Vieques, a beach along the north shore was being claimed and settled by locals who were staking the

land for themselves and their families. When the area was to be returned to the Vieques municipality, the mayor likened the venturesome beach settlers staking claim to their north shore land to the Boston Braves team, the underdogs, going for the pennant. And so the name for Bravos de Boston out of history, spirit and baseball, was born.

Speaking of It is commonly known that Hispanic names consist of a first name and two last names: the father’s last name and then the mother’s maiden name. Maria

Diaz

Names

Muñoz

[first name] [Father’s last name] [Mother’s last name]

But where do those beautiful, exotic first names come from? As you meet Viequenses while you are visiting you will encounter song-like names like Guelymar, AleValerie, Genoveva, Jaleyni, Kiani, Cacimar, Yaureibo, Jayuja – names that are inspired by the sea, by the Taino inhabitants of the island, by religion and by family. Often names are created by combining the names of the two grandmothers or the mother and father.

MEET THE CONNELY REYES KIDS (Ura) Michael Urayoan (Taino Indian Chief) Kiani (Lagoon) Xoari (Taino for eternal life) and Alexandra Zuanía (Taino for firm ground)

< Meet: Hadasa Eli Roman Peterson Hadasa is a biblical name representing righteaousness, and was the first name of Queen Esther. Eli means “high; ascended” or “my god”. Hadasa attends the Montessori School in Esperanza and is 4 years old. > Meet: Tanyaí Garcia Cruz Tanyaí is a combination of her grandmother’s name, Taní, and a sister, Yaitanny.

JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

FLAMBOYAN

TiCaToVe

you are fortunate enough to be on Vieques during the Flamboyant blooming season, generally June through September, you will know where the tree gets its name. Delonix regia, also known as the Royal Poinciana, is endemic to Madagascar and is endangered in the wild but widely cultivated elsewhere for its ornamental value and much loved in Puerto Rico and Vieques. The flamboyant display of vivid red, orange or yellow flowers against dark green fern-like leaves make it a striking sight. Locals call it “El Arbol que negó su flor a Mayo”, because it usually doesn’t flower until June. Its flowers are often used to decorate floats for the patronales parade in July.

Tinglar (Leatherback) Carey (Hawksbill ) Tortuga Verde (Green Turtle) Ticatove focuses on research and preservation of sea turtles and is looking for volunteers to perform a variety of jobs, all related to conservation of Vieques natural resources. If you are interested, please contact us on our facebook page or via email ticatovevieques@yahoo.com.

Ticatove Visitor Center/Gift Shop is located at the 303 building on Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. Please visit us on Saturday and Sundays from 10am to 2pm.

Vieques is an ideal nesting site for leatherback, hawksbill and green sea turtles. Please help ensure the survival of endangered sea turtles and their young by being aware of beach activity that can put them in peril.

ways that you can help 10

Please do not make structures or huts with palm fronds on the beach Only camp on beaches where permitted.

Please don’t litter. Take all trash and recyclables with you. Don’t ride horses on the beach that or known nesting sites.

Please do not dig holes in the sand on the beach. Baby turtles can become trapped in these holes on their way to the ocean. No campfires allowed.

Please keep your dogs on a leash at all times. If you see a turtle or turtle nest being disturbed please report it immediatly to FWS.

on the [ water

WHETHER YOU ARE AN EXPERIENCED SNORKELER OR A NOVICE DONNING MASK, FINS AND SNORKEL FOR THE FIRST TIME, VIEQUES IS ABUNDANT WITH OPPORTUNITY.

with Captain Tom K

BLUE TANG REEF

Off the Southern Coast of the Island sits one of the most flourishing reefs in the Caribbean. An open water reef only accessible by boat, Blue Tang is located about a half mile off the beaches of Bahia de la Chiva, the cayo off La Chiva or Blue Beach. Sea life there is vibrant. Elkhorn and Staghorn Coral, both endangered, are abundant; huge Brain Corals, Sea Fans, Sea Whips, Star Corals and more fill the watery landscape. Fish and sea life are equally spectacular. Sting Rays, Sand Sharks, Puffer Fish, Barracuda, Moray Eels and Caribbean Lobster are all local inhabitants. Schools of Parrot Fish, Royal Gramme, Trumpet and Butterfly Fish light up the reef with color. A moderate to good swimmer can cover most of the reef in a couple of hours. Blue Tang Reef is a good boat ride from Esperanza and not all charter boats make the trip. Check with the fleet moored in Esperanza Bay for availability. i

For those of you looking to set out on your

ROMPEOLAS own, Rompeolas, also called Mosquito Pier,

is the perfect snorkel site. Located on the north shore, two miles west of the airport on Highway 200, Rompeolas is easily accessible. The pier, actually a road, is a mile long, stretching out to a stilted pier at the end. The best snorkeling is about halfway up the pier on the Leeward, or West side. Rompeolas might be your best chance to see a sea turtle while snorkeling. Four species of sea turtles use Vieques as a nesting ground and are often spotted throughout the year. The closer you snorkel to the end of the pier, the more marine life you are likely to encounter. Puffer Fish, varieties of Rays, Jacks, Snappers and different species of schooling fish prefer this calm, protected water. Rompeolas is a popular diving destination so please be considerate and park to the sides of the road back from the gate. i

Taking advantage of a charter tour or guide service usually equals the best experience. No matter how you choose to snorkel Vieques, stay safe, never snorkel alone, and enjoy your time ON THE WATER in Vieques.

As you snorkel, always remember the reef is alive. To touch or disturb it is hazardous to both you and the reef.

green vieques BY CORKY PARKER AND THE VIEQUES RECYCLING DEPARTMENT

We love to share Isla Nena’s natural beauty, but as Vieques gets more and more discovered, the impact of its growing tourism grows as well. To maintain its unique beauty, with the limited infrastructure and budget of a small island, we need to work together. Here’s ten things you can do to help: 1. Recycle! You can now recycle aluminum, tin, cardboard, plastics (#1 and #2) and paper. You can drop off items at recycling locations listed below or call the city’s recycling office. (787741-5000) 2. Bring your own reusable water bottle. Our water comes from the rainforest in Puerto Rico so it’s clean and safe to drink. Bringing a bottle in your bag weighs nothing, and re-filling it here saves money. More importantly, it cuts down on the 123 tons per week of waste that ends up in our local landfill, or worse, floating in our oceans. Also remember, because our water supply is brought to the island it is not endless. Conserve water when possible.

WEST END RECYCLING OFFICE Follow 200 going West. After you pass the pier take your first left before the large field across from Milivy Church. (If you get to the church you have gone too far.) / Drive 0.25 miles and look for signs for the recycling office on the left.

FEBRUARY 2015

3. Bring your own reusable shopping bag. Most of the stores here use lots (and lots) of plastic bags. Cut down on wasted plastic by using your own bag every time you shop, and reusing the ones you’ll end up with anyway.

5. Use less by speaking up. Often you can get your drink in a real glass rather than plastic if you just ask. Say “no straw please” and tell them to just wrap that sandwich and go without the Styrofoam and plastic bag.

4. Cool it on the AC. Electricity here comes from coal freighted in from the States, an expensive process. Our trade winds are free. Ask yourself - do you really need that air conditioner on? And always remember to turn it off when you leave for hours at a time. Along with saving electricity and money there are health benefits. When left on all day AC compressors drip pools of water around your house. Mosquitos can breed in these pools of water and will eventually find you!

6. Form your very own beach clean-up crew. Keep a few of those plastic bags handy and pick up a handful of trash that ends up on our shores. Cleanups are a great family activity and make a huge difference on our beaches, and a great value to instill in your children - before you leave, pick up!

SANTA MARIA Pass German Rieckehoff High School in Santa María and drive straight ahead. Pass the baseball park on left and drive straight ahead to a little plaza on the right. Wooden bins are just past the plaza.

ESPERANZA Located at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust is across from the Malecon and next to Duffy’s Restaurant. The recycling containers are in front yard.

7. Buy local. Ask for local produce stands and opt for the small bananas and mottled oranges or grapefruit, not the perfect ones shipped in from

stateside. It costs half as much and the fruit tastes so much better! Same for the long, lighter and mild green peppers. Support local farms as you reduce the pollution of unnecessary shipping materials. 8. Choose cans over bottles. Glass isn’t recyclable here. 9. Yep... it’s on the list again. It’s that important to our little island. 10. Share the love. When you go home tell people about Vieques’ natural beauty and that you were a part of the effort to maintain it. Thanks!

BARRIO FLORIDA Driving west on 200 toward the airport, take a left onto 201. Take the first right into the AAA Office. The recycling containers are at the end on the left. For customers of the farmers market on Tues., Wed. and Fri., this very convenient recycling location is only 200 yards away from the market!

MARCH 2015

to the moon! Moon Calendar App

Easily check what night the moon is full with this app.

tech tip

PASTIME

For those new to the game here are some fun facts.

“It’s an easy game to learn but a difficult one to master.” If Vieques – as well as the rest of Puerto Rico – were to have a national pastime, it wouldn’t be horseback riding or snorkeling. It would be playing dominos! Residents learn this strategic table game at an early age and play resolutely and passionately the rest of their lives. It makes sense that island dwellers play dominos and not cards for practical reasons. Sitting in the plaza or by the sea players don’t have to worry about their “cards” blowing away or getting wet! Groups pop up all over the island. You will find games at the beach, at bars, colmados, on the Malecón and on benches in Isabel. There is a dedicated group that plays all weekend at La Nasa, young and old joined at the tables, knees bouncing, fingers tapping, and keys jingling. It’s a fast, fun game with long stretches of silence then raucous laughter and shouts. It is more than the game - it is a ritual, a social gathering with families interacting, relationships forming, husbands

and wives teaming up, and newcomers and old “pros” meeting. News and gossip are passed around like the many cold cans of Medalla while music moves some of the on-lookers. Despite the party atmosphere, players maintain etiquette. Protocol requires the losing team to get up from the table and take a break for a drink or a dance as the challengers sit down. Games, or manos, are played counterclockwise and a match is the best of seven games. Major faux pas are leaving people waiting when you know you have the game won (throw down your tiles if you’ve got it in the bag) and reneging, the mistake of holding a tile that should be played. The game is always friendly but very competitive. Like most serious players of any game, no one likes to lose. If you lose four straight games the match is over and you are the “chiva” or goat. The opposing team might “baaaaaaa” at you. You don’t want to be

the goat. Players have a style of play as well. Some slam the keys down with authority, others quietly slide them into place. There’s always some degree of one-up-manship, a little chiding or teasing or bragging. The goal is always to get the person who plays after you to pass, so the person who plays before you is your worst enemy in the game. Like any game it’s supposed to be fun. Play with people who will help you understand the game, then move up to the “pro” level players when you’ve gained some confidence. Joe Popp, a North American who has learned the game well since moving here a decade ago has played with most of the island’s “pros”. They still teach him a thing or two when he gets the chance to sit in. “There is strategy involved,” he says with a smile. “In dominos you can’t win with a bad hand but you can lose with a good hand.”

The first mention of the game of dominos comes from China’s Song Dynasty (966 – 1279 AD) The name domino is derived from the resemblance to a kind of priest’s hood (black on the outside, white on the inside) worn during the Venice carnival. There are 28 rectangular tiles, or bones, to a set, each with a line on its face side dividing it into two squares. Each square is either blank or marked with up to 6 dots informally called pips. Although there are several games to be played, the traditional game is for 2 to 4 players with the objective to empty one’s hand, a domino, while blocking opponents from doing so. In the end, a score is determined by counting the pips in the losing players’ hands. 13

BioBay Preservation

BIO BAY WATCH

A World Class Welcome and Improved Monitoring BY LIRIO MARQUEZ

n A water quality monitoring station maintained by VCHT has been in place for over two years. It measures standard water quality parameters: temperature, pH, dissolved oxygen, salinity and turbidity. A new, water quality, “real-time” station was just installed. This new station adds other waterquality parameters such as

chlorophyll, as well as tidal and weather information. It transmits in real time and provides historical and current information through this link: http://waterdata.usgs.gov/pr/nwis/uv/?site_ no=50231500&PARAmeter_ cd=00400,00095,00010 n Erosion and sedimentation control measures have been implemented on the road from Sun Bay to the Bio Bay through the use of BMPs (Better Management Practices) including low-cost high-efficiency green infrastructure, check dams, bioswales, rain gardens, vegetated sediment traps, reforestation with native species and permeable pavement. In the process of taking these steps, visitor, user and tour provider access to the Bay has been substantially improved. Parking areas, vehicular and pedestrian traffic organization, wheelchair access from the parking area to the shore, and, soon to come, interpretive signage are just some of the improvements. To polish the jewel just a tad brighter, an extraordinary, phosphorescent pedestrian

walkway for nighttime visitors has added a world-class and safe welcome to the Bay. Total cost of this project is over a half million dollars, with the Environmental Protection Agency, the Department of Natural and Environmental Resources, VCHT, the Puerto Rico Environmental Quality Board, the U.S. Geological Survey, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service and the Municipality of Vieques collectively providing financial and in-kind support. Additionally, the erosion control measures and improved access were designed by engineer David Aponte and built by Protectores de Cuencas, a Puerto Rican non-profit organization that specializes in watershed protection. The project has also brought income to the local economy through local employment and the acquisition of goods and services. You too are part of these efforts in how you treat and enjoy the Puerto Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay. It is nature at its finest. Help us preserve it for now and the future.

KARL ALEXANDER

s most visitors and residents know, Vieques possesses an amazing jewel of nature – a bioluminescent bay. Nature has once again chosen to display its power and brilliance and, to the joy of all, has bequeathed it to our little place in the sun. A tremendous amount of effort is constantly being expended to protect the Bioluminescent Bay for the benefit of all, led by the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (VCHT). The VCHT has been carrying out a multi-component erosion and sedimentation control project aimed at reducing the impact of runoff. These are just a few pieces of the project.

Mark Martin Bras points out Jupiter on his way to the Bioluminescent Bay. The glow-in-the-dark pebbles that line the walkway to the Bio Bay are made from a unique material that requires no electricity or power, just sunlight to charge them. This chemically and biologically inert, eco-friendly resin is safe for human, animal and plant life, and will last approximately 20 years. These pebbles provide a safe nighttime glow to light the pathway to the bay, they are also the best introduction to the beauty that awaits at trail’s end.

he re t, w , what to do, where t o ea

o go t e r

insider [V I E Q U E S ]

CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES 16

to p la y .

, op h s

to stay, when to dine, e r e how wh

FACES OF VQS

barbara {ita}

flavio

BY: TOM O’GRADY, JR.

BA RBARA BAKER BERNACHE

FLAVIO FELICIANO SILVA

When you meet Barbara, “Barbarita” to her island friends, you see a slight, fragile wisp of a woman who flows like the airy caftans she wears. Look closer and the tanned, lined face smiles warmly back at you, as interested in you as you are in her. Born on the 4th of July eighty five years ago Barbarita lives in the present, keenly respectful of the ticking clock but unfettered by it. Teacher, painter, pianist, writer and ardent student of marine biology her present consists of Vieques and Virginia. Drawn to the island in the early seventies by its beauty and her interest in the Bioluminescent Bay, part of her marine biology studies, she is still active in tending to the Bay’s health, still making trips with Mark Martin, a Director at the Vieques Conservation and Historic Trust, an organization she helped grow as a Board member. As if scrambling around the bay isn’t enough of a challenge she blithely drops another mission in the works; writing a history of bioluminescence. “I want to do that before I croak,” she says matter-of-factly. Most of her island social group of the last forty years has disappeared, but when prodded to talk about the past and how she and the island have changed she speaks without the nostalgia or sadness of many her age, remembering the past with pleasure. “I used to love a beer at eleven in the morning, but no more. Water and Boost,” she says with a mischievous tone, clearly aware of the irony. As she rises from the settee on her veranda, her gaze slides instinctively across the island to the view of her beloved Bay. Another busy season is at hand and her work is not finished.

Flavio is a young man of many faces. Serious, playful, focused, smiling; not unusual for a sixteen-year-old. But one particular face tells the story, the one that looks away from you and sees…something; not unusual for a musician. Playing music takes you places. The notes travel from mind to fingers to sound, the sound returning to the ear, evoking images and thoughts and, ultimately, expression. Flavio plays guitar, steel drums, percussion drums and piano, multiple routes to the same destination - expression. His love of music began watching his uncle Manolín Silva play the drums at age 6. Uncle Fernando Silva, director of the Municipal Band of Vieques, was also very influential in Flavio’s development. At age 8 Flavio was accepted into the Band under the direction of Ruben Bonano, another of his mentors. The commitment to the music has brought him many local performances and taken him to New York and Washington. This year it will take him to Colombia and Peru as a member of the Vieques Rondalla, a program of the Vieques Concert Society. When we talk of travel another expression comes across his boyish, friendly face and his eyes move past me, the image of notes to be played in places not yet seen somewhere in his mind. It’s an expression of delight. I ask him if he would like to travel more with his music. The practical musician says he’s thought of it and likes the idea but it is not so easy. I can tell from his ever-changing face that his thought is a musical piece being composed as we speak. I ask him what he thinks of the world and his response is immediate. “Tienes que ir. Tienes que verlo.” “You have to go. You have to see it.” 17

PLAY DATES

SUNDAY FUNDAY JR. Parents & Kids & Playful Adults Meet & Greet @ Sunbay 12-4

TUESDAY PLAY DAY IN THE PARK Parents & Kids & Playful Adults @ Esperanza Playground 3-5pm

hermit crabs

For the kid in all of us.

BY SCOTT D. APPELL

One of the most charming creatures on Vieques is the Caribbean hermit crab, Coenobita clypeatus, also known as the soldier crab, the West Atlantic crab and the tree crab. It is a species of land crab native to the Caribbean, South America and the West Indies. Adults burrow and hide under the roots of large trees, and can be found scuttling about considerable distances inland, especially in early evening or morning. On Vieques, hermit crabs have been found on the highest peaks of the island, ready for the long scuttle back to the sea to lay their eggs.

just for fun! WaveRunner Actually skips and bounces on water! Available at Vieques Gifts on the Malecón in Esperanza

DO YOU HAVE GREAT PHOTOS OF VIEQUES?

SHARE YOUR SHOTS! FUN. WA C K Y. W E T. S I L LY. S E X Y. S P O N T A N E O U S . E D U C AT I O N A L . WHIMSICAL . BE AUTIFUL . MEANINGFUL. C O O L . C R E AT I V E . COLORFUL.

PUBLISH THEM IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF VIEQUES INSIDER WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM

787.435.3172 18

These animals do lead solitary lives; seeking each other out only to mate – hence the hermit designation. ........................... Female land hermit crabs release fertilized eggs into the ocean, taking great care not to get carried off by the surf. They cannot swim or breathe underwater as their aquatic cousins can. This spawning (called “washing” in the English-speaking Caribbean) occurs on certain nights of the brightest moon, usually around August.

To protect themselves they move into empty shells of marine mollusks, shifting to new, abandoned shells as they grow. If no shell is available, the crab must procure alternative materials. (I remember seeing a bright red plastic spray can lid scurrying through the lawn one evening only to discover it was home to a fairsized hermit crab. I wanted to paint racing-stripes on the lid to complete the effect.) ........................... Although hermit crabs are edible they are often captured for use as fish bait.

Caribbean hermit crabs are both herbivorous and detritivorous, feeding on animal and plant remains. ........................... Hermit crabs are more closely related to lobsters than to other crabs. ........................... During the change in shell size multiple hermit crabs have been observed moving in and out of shells previously inhabited by other hermit crabs, a social structure known as a vacancy chain.

insider tip Across the street from Belly Buttons there are steps that lead down to the beach. Walk down these steps and look around the roots of the palm trees. You are sure to see baby hermit crabs skittering about.

THOSE CRAZY KIDS

Oh, the Places You could Go!

The US Fish and Wildlife Service Office at the entrance of Garcia Gate has many displays and programs for children to learn about wildlife and local conservation efforts.

The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust has a marine life exhibit to teach children about the fragility of the coral reef habitat of Vieques.

At the Incubadora Office in Isabel II there is a small children’s library as well as a book exchange for adults. Computers, copy machines, Fax are available for a donation. M-F 9am-4pm but hours vary.

Sunbay has a campground, bathrooms and the Arenamar Café where you can get delicious healthy snacks for the beach. After the beach, give the youngsters a quick rinse before they fall asleep in the car on the way home.

The playground in Esperanza is open 8am-6pm Mon-Sat and 12-6pm on Sunday. There is a track that winds through the park under shade trees. Aprox. 15 times around makes a mile.

Fort Conde Mirasol overlooking Isabel Segunda is a museum and gallery for families searching for cultural activities. It is open to the public Wed.-Sun. 10am-4pm.

Parque la Ceiba is a wonderful place for kids to picnic, play and reconnect with nature. Pass the airport on 200 and keep going west. At the bend in the road the Ceiba tree is on the right.

There is a wonderful little “kiddie tidepool” on the beach in front of Tradewinds restaurant on the Malecón. Look for marine life in the tidepools, but be careful of the sea urchins!

There are many guided activities for children. Check with tour guides for age requirements for children. Snorkeling Sailing Horseback Riding Paddleboarding Kayaking Surfing Lessons

A LA PARILLA.. FRITO.. . . . . . . . . ASADO. . . . . . . . . . PERNIL.. . . . . . . . LECHÓN.. . . . . . . . CHULÉTA. . . . . . . POLLO. . . . . . . . . . CARNE. . . . . . . . . JAMÓN. . . . . . . . . . PAVO. . . . . . . . . . . COCINETA. . . . . CERDO. . . . . . . . . PEZ. . . . . . . . . . . . DORADO. . . . . . . . LANGOSTA. . . . . LIBRAS. . . . . . . . .

GRILLED FRIED ROASTED PORK SHOULDER ROAST PIG PORK CHOP CHICKEN MEAT HAM TURKEY BACON PORK FISH MAHI LOBSTER POUNDS

ARROZ BLANCO CON HABICHUELAS / WHITE RICE & BEANS PAPAS FRITAS / FRENCH FRIES

AMARILLOS / FRIED SWEET PLANTAINS TOSTONES / FRIED GREEN PLANTAINS AREPAS / FRIED DOUGH

ARROZ CON GANDULES / RICE WITH PIGEON PEAS PASTELES / PUERTO RICAN TAMALE

Horchata de Ajonjolí (Sesame Seed Drink) 2 cups sesame seeds 2 cups water at room temperature 4 cups warm water 1 cup sugar Soak sesame seeds 4 hours. Strain. Grind the seeds into a fine powder in a food processor or coffee grinder. Add 4 cups of warm water and blend. Strain. Add sugar to sweeten. Chill.

jugo naturales / fresh juice

MAMPOSTEAO

[ mom-post-tee-ow ] Now that you know how to pronounce it, go ahead and order it! A delicious blend of beans, rice, and spices, each restaurant has their own special recipe. Biekes Bistro turns up the heat by serving it with their homemade hot sauce. Not to be missed!

Jugos Naturales can be found next to Placita Reyes farmers market at the corner of 200 and 201 on Tues, Wed, and Fridays. Owners Julita & Peyín gatherfruits & nuts throughout the year to prepare their candy confections, candied papayas & fresh juices. Their natural, homemade fruit juice choices include tamarind, passion fruit (parcha), Barbados cherry (acerola), sesame seed (horchata), and wild sea grape (uva de playa) collected from the beaches. Julita also sells her homemade sofrito, the heart and soul behind many culinary preparations in Puerto Rico including rice and beans!

Pinchomania!

THE JOYS OF GOYA

The Caribbean Pincho is usually pork, shark, chicken or beef skewered with a really long wooden toothpick, grilled to perfection and then slathered with barbeque sauce. Topped off with a slice of pan de agua (Puerto Rican version of French bread), it is served simply on the stick and wrapped in tin foil. It is the quintessential “finger food”.

YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY, “If it’s Goya it’s got to be good.” SCOTT D. APPELL

While vacationing on our beautiful Isla Nena (“Little Sister”) island, you will inevitably have to shop for groceries at our local supermarkets (supermercados), stores (tiendas) or carry-outs (colmados). Undoubtedly you will come across the leader of Puerto Rican processed provisions: products by Goya Foods. Goya was founded in 1936 by Prudencio Unanue Ortiz (1886–1976) from Valle de Mena, Spain who emigrated to Puerto Rico, and met and married Carolina Casal (1890–1984) also a Spanish immigrant. They subsequently moved to New York City. Prudencio believed that his name was too difficult for American customers to pronounce, so he purchased the name of a Moroccan sardine company named “Goya”. The company was initially set up in the Financial District of Manhattan, importing Spanish foods like olives and olive oil. Although an international corporation, it’s headquarters are located in Seacaucus, NJ.

www.goya.com

insider tech tip

Goya provides Spanish, Puerto Rican, Caribbean, Mexican, Cuban and Central and South American foods throughout the United States, Puerto Rico, and international markets. Their e-store www.goya.com is amazing at providing regional recipes, nutrition information and online ordering of all their products!

try something new

order

APPETIZER:

ENTREE:

LIONFISH CEVICHE

CONCH

MOFONGO

WHOLE FRIED FISH

..................................

Ceviche is fresh, raw fish cured in citrus juices. The citric acid “denatures” the fish which alters the chemical and physical properties of the fish just as heat does. Try the lionfish ceviche at El Quenepo when it is available.

Conch can be served many ways but don’t miss the way that Biekes Bistro does it. Cooked in a rich, creamy curry base and with tostones, deep fried plantain or breadfruit. Be adventurous!

Mofongo is a mashed mixture of plantains, breadfruit or yuca, garlic and spices. It is fried or baked with your choice of fish, lobster, beef or pork. Each restaurant has their own unique recipe. Your choice!

Head to tail, fried fish are best eaten using your hands and digging right in. The skin fries to a papery thin crisp while the delicate meat inside stays moist. Many restaurants on Vieques are serving locally caught fresh fish. 21

A La Isla de Vieques • To The Island of Vieques Author: Amaldina June 4, 1950

Born in Vieques in 1912, Amaldina was a Pioneer Spiritualist, naturalist, healing medium, and mystic.

maldina’s mostly unpublished volumes of poetry, essays and messages were entrusted to her niece, Vivian Garcia. Thinking that she was taking a semester-long sabbatical to fulfill her mother’s wish that she translate the collection of her aunt Almaldina’s essays and poetry, Vivian was inspired to pursue a different path. A retired attorney, Vivian is working as an independent scholar on the subject of Espiritismo (Spiritualism) as it is practiced in Puerto Rico. She continues to learn from and share the works of Amaldina. Vivian’s study has led to her life as a Certified Spiritual Healer at the Lily Dale Assembly located in Cassadaga, New York where she lives when she is not in Vieques.

“I was 8 when I met my aunt on my first trip

to Puerto Rico. She was “scary Titi Aurea” with two different color eyes. Though I understood few words, as Amaldina she transformed a little girl’s fear to only love. Fifty years later, having translated and recited her written words I now consider that recital my first brush with her healing powers.

”

...

Quiero que se sepa Que yo soy de esa misma cepa Muy isleña, Y muy, pero que muy portorriqueña... Porque si al aire Y al sol le canto: Sabe tu, isla hermosa Que fué maravillosa La mañana, En que tu sol, Y tu luz Me bautizaron... Y aunque distante de ti, Porque alli naci, Pregono por doquiera Que hasta el dia En que muera, Habré de llevarte Asida a mi entraña. Y sera mi estandarte Para siempre amarte. ¡A tus mares cantando Y a tu tierra besando! Y honrada me siento De ser hija tuya, Y saber que se arrulla El corazon de mi madre, Que duerme en tu seno.

I want it known That I am pure blooded Very islander, And very, but very much a Puerto Rican woman. Because yes, to the air and to the sun I sing: You know, beautiful island that it was wondrous the morning, in which your sun and your light baptized me. And although far from you Still, I was born there; I proclaim it everywhere That until the day I die, I will carry you deep within me. And my banner will be To love you forever more.  To your seas I sing and it’s your shores I kiss! And so honored I feel to be your daughter and to know that you lull the heart of my mother, a heart that sleeps deep within your bosom.

the

Cycle of Life

Gifts from the Sea written b: Tom Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Grady

he ocean means many things to many people. For some it means solace, the comforting sound of waves lapping at the shore, calming and reassuring them. For others it is nature on display, flaunting its multiple shades of blue as they shift at the whim of ever-changing sun and clouds. And for others still, it is a liquid playground, embracing us and our toys above and below its welcoming surface. But for Vieques born-andraised couple Guelymar (pronounced Gay-leemar) Perez and Eric Torres the ocean means a cycle of life that touches everyone on Vieques, residents and visitors alike. As owners of Pescaderia Angelyz, the only fresh seafood market on the island, they are the oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distribution center, working tirelessly to bring the efforts of some to the pleasure of others. Like their families before them and the watermen around them Perez and Torres are pearls in an endless string of pearls that is life on Vieques. 23

“...an amazing,

They are the fathers, sons, brothers, uncles, nephews and cousins of generations who have gone down to the sea

JEN TEETER

ancient scene forms outside like a canvas come to life...”

Metaphoric jewelry aside, their average day starts like most parents, waking and herding three sons - Eric, Hector and Misael - into school clothes and, eventually, to school. Then off to work, to their waterfront market just past the Ferry Terminal on a sliver of road that ends at their building. The blue underwater scene painted on the walls gleams in the morning sun in contrast to the clear blue water around it. It is a simple structure; weigh and filet shed, a walk-in freezer, an office and several chest-style freezers laid end to end in a moderate-sized room, suggesting both the simplicity and importance of what they do. No fancy glass-front display cases filled with shaved ice here. Doors unlocked and opened to the hot sun, the day begins. Framed by the doorway an amazing, ancient scene forms outside like a canvas come to life; gor-

geous white clouds sit softly near the tops of the North Shore hills, moored sailboats bob in the diamond surface of the water. Two dozen tarpon float patiently out front like oversized goldfish in a bowl waiting for Tomas, the weigh and filet man of the team, to share some of the days’ bounty with them, the tarpon clearly unaware of the irony they represent. To the left, on the concrete pier that juts out into the north side waters of the island, the harvesters of the sea begin their daily transfer of bounty from boat to land. And so it continues… Many hours before, while Guelymar and Eric sleep, boats drift in the moonlight, their lines trailing in the dark water for Yellow Tail and Snapper. A few hours later men in wetsuits dive deep to the ocean floor in search of royalty,

the Queen Conch. Alongside them come the lobstermen, checking the pots or nasas for spiny delicacies. And throughout the sun’s rising hours, more men of the sea reach down into the depths to scoop out their daily living. They are the past, present and future of Vieques fishing - fifteen to twenty of them depending on the season, half who harvest the conch and four to six who work the lobster pots. They are the fathers, sons, brothers, uncles, nephews and cousins of generations who have gone down to the sea in boats, passing along the knowledge and the tools to support each other. On any given day Guelymar’s uncles, Jose the captain and Papo the diver, provide the carrucho or conch; Captain Georgie brings the langosta or lobster; Jhony and his

helpers haul the fish. For them and the other fishermen it is their job to bring the ocean’s offerings to the land, a physically challenging - patience testing and, yes, dangerous job that has wounded some and buried others. The sea does not give up its treasures easily. Narcosis, sun and heat exposure, rough and unpredictable seas, ocean predators, lightning, all lay in wait to harm or disable the careless gatherer. But it does not deter them. It is the fishermen’s job, their calling. And they answer well. At 10am the procession begins. Captains and boat hands, divers and helpers file up the pier hauling their baskets of pescado or seafood; Dorado, Tuna, Hog Fish, Yellowtail, Snapper, Grouper, Kingfish, Conch and Lobster. They bring them to the

doorway of the Pescaderia and lay them at the feet of Guelymar and Eric like proud hunters. They laugh and comment to each other as they hose down their wetsuits or rinse their arms, their camaraderie visible and enjoyable even to an outsider. They have returned to shore safely one more time. Their job is done. And now Guelymar’s, Eric’s and Tomas’s begins. Tomas filets a grouper for a visiting couple while Eric moves from front door to freezer to slicer where he cuts frozen Hogfish or “capitan,” a fish caught fresh within the last few days. Guelymar watches the indoor scale, marking the weights of tubs of live lobster, then moves back to the doorway where three huge baskets of conch sit in watery juices of the sea. 25

VISIT THE

CEIBA TREE

ENJOY A

WATCH THE SUNSET ON THE SOUTH SIDE PASS IT ON

GO ON A

TOUR

QUESITO

SMILE BIG

(SNORKELING, SAILING, HORSEBACK RIDING, WHAT’S YOUR FANCY?)

FORGET YOURSELF

COLLECT SEA GLASS

SEE THE SUGAR MILL RUINS

TIP APPRECIATE LOCAL ART

TRY A QUENEPA GO TO THE FORT LISTEN TO RADIO VIEQUES

JUMP OFF

THE PIER IN ESPERANZA

SAMPLE FARE FROM THE KIOSKS

snorkel the pier

DONATE TO A LOCAL NON PROFIT GET PUNCHY!

LISTEN FOR A COQUI

GET LOST

WATCH THE SUNSET ON THE NORTH SIDE

HAVE LOCAL LOBSTER

quick, quick slow salsa at la nasa quick, quick slow

ADOPT A DOG FIND A HEART ROCK

insider cycl [v i e q u e s ]

conne

cting

visito

e of life stories

READ VIEQUES INSIDER

from the

rs to viequ

j u ly novem

ber 2 0 14

sea

beaches to explore EssEnt

ial gu idE

VQS017

insidE

leatherb ack returns to playa grande

on the

water look for

insider

tips

DON’T MISS THE DECEMBER FOOD AND DINING ISSUE! For more information about Vieques Insider contact Kelly 787.435.3172 or email kelly@viequesinsider.com Check out the interactive, online magazine at www.viequesinsider.com 26

SEA TO

TABLE Following Delicacies of the Sea from Fishermen to Fork TOM KIRKBRIGHT

The first hint of light reveals sparkling blue water and pink sky off the shore of Esperanza. Boats bob gently in the soft swells as fishermen in dinghies head to their boats, chattering back and forth. Having rested since early the night before, the fishermen are ready for the work ahead and optimistic about its rewards. The day looks promising. On shore, the chefs of Vieques sleep. They have worked far into the previous evening and wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t rise for a few more hours. When they do theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll meet with their watermen counterparts, eager to see the catch that will help create their menus. They too, will be optimistic. The effort of one group begets the effort of the other. And we all win. 27

buy local gift guide

These are just a few of Vieques artist and artisans, we couldn’t possibly show them all. Walk along the malecon, peruse the kiosks, explore the stores, galleries and museums and you will discover Vieques talent everywhere you look!

Vieques Bath & Botanica, a product line handcrafted in small batches, is made right here on Vieques. Liz Koogle and Larissa Sarmiento combined their deep connection to the Caribbean and unique talents to craft a body line using local ingredients; fresh fruits, herbs, and essential oils. Every product is an interpretation the island’s unique ambiance, whether that means using Puerto Rican Medalla beer and local honey in the shampoo or mimicking the bioluminescent bay in a swirling clear, yet dark and sparkling soap. After intensive research and lots of experimentation, slowly recipes became refined and Vieques Bath & Botanica was born.

BUY COQUÍ FIR E ONLINE AT WWW.COQUIFIR E .COM OR LOOK FOR IT IN STOR ES ALL OVER VIEQUES 787-74 1-04 01

Ha nd ma de

You can’t leave Vieques without a bottle of Jimmy’s Coqui Fire hot sauce. Celebrating it’s 13th year, Coqui fire offers a twist on your usual condiment offering flavors like Pina Colada Mustard, Papaya Lime, and for the really brave, the Ultimate Dragon Hot Sauce with a sweat factor of 15.

HAND MAD E CUSTOM TILES BY MAUR EEN HAR R ISON @ THE EMPOR IUM V I EQ U E S B AT H & B OTA N I CA @ F U N KY B E E HI V E 917 -573-449 1

KI LLE R B E E HO N E Y LA S I E M B RA FA RM 787 -948 -9939

A $5 donation will get you one of these fridge magnets and also the peace of mind that you helped an animal in need over the holidays. Find them at Funky Beehive!

Look for Killer Bee Honey, at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, VQS Flowers & Gifts, the Green Store, Buen Provecho, Funky Beehive, and VQS Emporium.

WEEK ENDS ON THE MALECON AND VIEQUES HISTOR ICAL AND CONSERVATION TRUST

Taino artisan Daniel Silva is not just creating art he is reviving Taino history. His pottery is created with the difficult technique that the Taino indians used. His carved gourds are all carved freehand, the designs inspired by Taino art. Daniel is a true craftsman, artist and keeper of the Taino legacy.

A RT I ST L U L U AT KI N 787 741 782 8 GA L L E RY GA L L EO N

ARTISTS JUAN SILVA A ND MICHELLE LANOO BR ING YOU D’ BIEK É D ESIG NS ON THE MALECON TUES, WED, AND FR I 939-2 59-3 5 85

G R EENLEAF POTTERY SAR AH COOK @ SID D HIA HUTCHINSON GALLERY 787-74 1-2 993

Potter and artist Sara Cook uses leaves, herbs and flowers to create her organic pottery designs. The leaves are pressed into the surface of the clay and burnt out during firing or sometimes used as the actual mold for the platter or plate. The result is naturally amazing! S A N D R A M U DGE S A I LB OAT S @ FU N KY B E E HI V E

ELLIE HAROLD VIEQUES OIL LANDSCAPES 231-352-6213 @ SIDDHIA HUTCHINSON GALLERY

ARTIST SAND R A R EY ES GALLERY GALLEON 787-988-93 19

HAND PR INTED CUSTOM VIEQUES TEES BY JAD E R OBERTSON @ FUNKY BEEHIVE , EL BLOK , AND SOL CR EATIONS 64 6-3 3 4 -5590 LO CA L C O LO R SEAG LAS S JEWELRY @ F U N KY BEEHIVE

EDITOR’S PICK. FIND WHAT SPEAKS TO YOU. This wood figure carved by Puerto Rican artist, Adrian Rodriguez, called to me from the shelves of Vieques Gifts for over a year until I finally broke down and brought him home. With a little research I found out it is the Fourth King, King Mazzel, who, on his way to see the newborn Jesus gave away his gifts for the baby to spare the lives of others. Now he sits on my computer desk among post-its, camera equipment, and coffee cups and gives me strength and great comfort when I look at him, reminding me that the journey is ever changing, and to appreciate those along the way.

shop eat i explore

Save money with the Trust's value card with discounts at many local businesses. For sale at the Vieques Historical and Conservation Trust. i

STEVE SIMONSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

DOs & DON’Ts OF SNORKELING ON T HE WATER W/ CAPTAIN TOM KIRKBRIGHT

DO Do discuss and plan your snorkel. Decide how you want to cover the body of water you are about to snorkel. It’s always a good idea to swim out against a light current and float back over the reef. Always keep the boat or shore in sight. Do stay together. For both safety and enjoyment, two or three sets of eyes will see much more than one set alone and a partner may see trouble you don’t. Do create a simple form of hand signals. This will allow you to share observed marine life 30

without having to surface to explain. A simple set of signals is sufficient for messages like; Going back to shore or boat; I need help; Let’s go this way; Are you OK?; Look at this. And keep your signals simple. Do be prepared. Make sure your equipment fits and is comfortable. Clearing a mask every 30 seconds or adjusting a fin over a reef is no fun. The equipment should be in good condition and fit properly. If you are prone to motion sickness and have charted a snorkel trip, take your medicine in a timely fashion, not while stepping onto the boat. Do save the experience. Inexpensive underwater cameras are now readily available. Make sure your camera has a clip or lanyard. You’ll need both hands to swim and snorkel the incredible reefs and shoreline of Vieques.

DON’T Don’t snorkel alone!! This is the primary rule of any water activity. Always snorkel with a partner. Don’t touch anything. There are a myriad of marine species and corals that can cause severe pain or worse. Not only are you protecting yourself, but also the coral reefs and aquatic life. They are easily damaged by handling. Don’t panic. Despite the amazing and beautiful insights into the Vieques underwater world that snorkeling provides, there are scenarios that can cause distress; a jellyfish sting, a brush against fire coral, equipment failure, a leg cramp, a shark sighting, to name a few. Stay calm. You’re not in danger unless you put yourself there. Swim slowly back to the boat or shore where you can make a clear assessment of what happened and how to proceed.

Don’t try to swim against a strong current. Rip currents on the beach or open-water currents on the edges of some offshore reefs are powerful. Snorkel equipment doesn’t turn you into Michael Phelps. Doggie paddle, watch where the current is pushing you, then swim at a 90 degree angle to the current until you are out, then back to shore, the boat or the reef. Don’t apply suntan lotion right before entering the water. Scientists have recently learned that some types of suntan lotion containing Benzophenone-2 or BP-2 can cause corals to bleach. The effects are difficult to measure and these studies are an ongoing process. Please put your lotion on at least 20 minutes before entering the water. When possible, try to use sunscreen with Titanium or Zinc Oxide. Check the label.

SNO RKE

N O RT H SHORE

L D A LW AY O N LEF

It happens all too often! Don’t lose your sunglasses to a wave at Navio!

H20 HOT PICKS

Vieques has numerous great places to snorkel. Here are two of the best!

SNORKEL VIEQUES PIERS

Dry Pak Bag • Protect your camera or phone from the elements. Shoot photos through the optical quality bag.

Slip this foam sheath over the rubber straps of your snorkel mask to protect your long locks from getting tangled or breaking.

Save the memories with an underwater case for your iphone. 4/4S/5 • depth rating 130ft.

50+ UPF SO U T H SHORE

The sugarcane pier in Esperanza is a great place to snorkel as well as to just hang out and enjoy the beach. On Saturdays and Sundays the pier can be busy with kids jumping from the pier to the water so snorkelers should get there early or on weekdays.

Protect your skin from sunburn, jellyfish, and bumps against rocks or coral.

A L L I T E M S AVA I L A B L E AT B L A C K B E A R D S P O R T S

Rompeolas, also called Mosquito Pier, is the perfect snorkel site. Located on the north shore, two miles west of the airport on Highway 200, Rompeolas might be your best chance to see a sea turtle while snorkeling.

If you are starting your snorkel from a sandy spot put your equipment on when you are already in the water. Fins go on easier when they are wet and the snorkel strap slides easily over wet hair. Put your snorkel equipment on close to or in the water, NOT far from the shore. The snorkel always goes on the left of the mask. This might seem like common sense to experienced snorkelers but to the beginner this tip is extremely useful! Wear a rashguard.

30,000 OFFSPRING

M O N T H L Y Lionfish can live in depths between two and 1000 feet and in almost any habitat from patch reefs over walls to mangroves. Year round they produce up to 30,000 offspring monthly and prey on a large variety of fish, shrimp and crabs. Their high adaptability, prolific reproduction and all-encompassing appetite make them especially dangerous as an invasive species. Fishermen, dive operators, the Vieques Trust and others on our island are trying to keep the population in check. Do your part and order lionfish whenever you see it on the menu. It is delicious! Look for more information and where to sample lionfish in the December issue of Vieques Insider!

STEVE SIMONSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

The Bay of Magic Vieques Bioluminescent Bay, the Brightest in the World MARK MARTIN BRAS

uerto Mosquito, Vieques’s bioluminescent bay, is considered by many to be one of the hidden wonders of the world. Not the Hollywood, computer generated graphics type of wonder. No, this is the real deal. This is a natural wonder, the kind you remember forever, the kind that assures you that coming to Vieques was a brilliant idea. The magic in Puerto Mosquito is created by an unusual wizard called Pyrodinium bahamense (whirling fire of the Bahamas). This single cell microscopic plankton is able to create an eerie bluish light by mixing two chemicals whenever something touches it. The result is spectacular. A ride on a pedal or electric boat, a canoe or a kayak puts you front row for an underwater light show where manta rays fly through a sea of ghostly stars and fish trail electric-blue wakes in the darkness. Once in a while, a manatee moves gently through the sparkling scene, large yet graceful in its watery environment, helping us understand why ancient sailors believed in mermaids. How this sparkling jewel of Vieques works is perhaps more impressive than its glow. Puerto Mosquito is a bay of lights partly because it is a bay of life. A majestic mangrove forest, seagrass beds, a coral reef and neighboring lagoons have combined to create and protect one of the most delicate and unique ecosystems on earth. A true testament to biodiversity the Bay is home to a myriad of creatures, functioning as a nursery to house and protect its occupants. This combination of life along with the interaction with the mangrove forest provides the ideal conditions in the water for this bloom of dinoflagellates (whirling tail organism) to thrive. The stability that comes from calm winds and low precipitation help maintain this recipe and the plentiful amount of sunlight provides nourishment for the photosynthetic Pyrodinum bahamense. The single shallow and narrow entrance

helps protect the bay and “trap” these organisms in their perfect habitat. The bioluminescent bay is traditionally been used by the local fishing community as a safe harbor in storms and as a source for baitfish. In terms of tourism, the bay brings in millions of dollars a year to Vieques as it is one of the main reasons people from all over the globe visit the island. The brightest bioluminescent bay in the world, Puerto Mosquito is also one of the last examples of a pristine bay. It is featured in the Guiness book of world records and it has traditionally held concentrations that, at it’s highest, range between 75,000 to 132,000 P. bahamense per liter. Bioluminescent bays are extremely delicate and require sustainable tourism practices to survive. The Vieques Conservation & Historical Trust (www.vcht.org), a local non profit, works in collaboration with the agencies and local community to preserve this precious resource. We have seen the way a visit to the “Caño Hondo” a local name for the Bioluminiscent Bay, can change it’s visitors in just one night. It’s famed rejuvenating powers come from the way it puts you back in touch with nature and helps us remember what is true entertainment, and what is truly important. It is a place that changes its visitors, reconnecting us to nature in a way that makes us feel something inside, makes us love what we experience and makes us always remember it in our minds. We hope it inspires you to protect it and all the natural wonders we have left. No words or pictures can really explain it. It has to be experienced. To do so is to understand how magic and science can exist in the same place. For more information contact: Department of Natural and Environmental Resources of Puerto Rico www.drna.gobierno.pr. Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust 33

VIEQUES’ PLAYA GRANDE SUGAR MILL A sweet, historic tour TO M O’G R A DY

You know the question everyone asks when considering skydiving - why would I jump out of a perfectly good plane thousands of feet in the air? A similar thought crossed my mind the other day as I prepared to take a Sugar Mill tour on Vieques. Why would I walk around fully clothed in a hot jungle and dark tunnels when I could be frolicking in a crystal ocean and reclining on a gorgeous beach? Well, I haven’t jumped out of a plane yet but I did do the tour and I suspect the answer is the same.

Because it’s freakin’ awesome! The Playa Grande Sugar Mill Tour is an amazing journey into the past, beautifully staged by the remnants and ruins of a working mill and presented by extremely knowledgeable and equally enthusiastic guides. This is no stay in line, don’t touch anything museum tour. This is a real, vines-in-your face, don’t lose your guide immersion into a once vibrant Vieques industry/

world, a world with as many heartbreaking social ramifications as economic and historic. The history offered on the tour is as dazzling and eye-opening as the physical ruins, placing little who ever heard of it Vieques in the context of a global economy, way before we even talked about global economies. The historical context reaches as far back as the 16th century and blazes 35

DANIEL RYAN

VISITOR’S POINT OF VIEW

We’re New Yorkers, but technically, we’re Brooklynites. Our neighborhood, Fort Greene, is one of the greenest urban spaces in the world. It constantly smells of fresh flowers and one can usually hear children playing nearby. It has its own feel, as does Brooklyn in general. As we all know, the energy of the city is constant. When that’s a good thing, it is life-giving, youthful and electrifying. When it’s not, it can be burdensome and exhausting. This must have been why, as I looked out to the endless horizon of the Caribbean Sea from miles of white sand and surf, that I felt a tinge of confusion. I had to adjust what I thought was possible now to allow for “... I can a different feel, one of a new beauty and a new peace. sense the The feeling was of being given an unexpected gift that exchange of the no amount of thanks or response could compensate. My city for the sea girlfriend, Sarah, had already been to the island once and had brought me here, so the thanks on a molecular belonged to her. The clear blue water was clearer and bluer than it had been in my dreams. I level.” was being charmed not only by Playa Grande and Vieques, but by Puerto Rico itself. As our time on the beach that day wore on, my initial confusion transformed into relaxation, with the certainty that we would return. (The next year we would introduce Vieques and Playa Grande to friends.) On the island, I swear I can sense the exchange of the city for the sea on a molecular level. With every exhalation I expel cinder, concrete and dust while inhaling flora, fauna and moist, salty air, my body subconsciously collecting these particles like a chipmunk hoarding nuts in preparation for winter. Each time I visit Vieques and leave again I am compelled to equate certain environments with stages of my life. The city represents youthful ambitions, late nights, partying and self-discovery in all its best and worst ways. And Vieques represents a true sense of self, release from tension, and rest. It is a kind of paradise, but it is even better because it is real. The concept of “island time” is particularly notable to me as a New Yorker. In the city, we live and work in a cultural narrative slavishly attached to itineraries, meetings, schedules and (as if it were possible) staying young. A city slicker looks at island time and scoffs. Meanwhile, on the island I notice that everything gets done and no one is stressed. As we all move together about the planet I take with me island time. I use it in the city. I turn it on with friends, during my commute and sometimes at work. I prefer it in every way to the time of New York City. Though I love the city, its version of time –the strict adherance to schedules and the rushed daily routine – can be draining. By using island time combined with the energy and resources of the city, everything gets done and no one is stressed. It is almost Buddhist-like in its implicit suggestion of, “Hey, what’s the rush? We’ve got eternity here.” BY DANIEL RYAN

It must have been on Playa Grande that I felt it, as my girlfriend and I stepped onto the sand without another soul in sight; a calm that is simultaneously full and empty that the city simply will not allow.

Daniel Ryan lives in Brooklyn and maintains private practice in New York City as a hypnotherapist. He specializes in past life regression and enjoys guiding experiences in meditation, relaxation and trance with individuals and groups all over the world. For years he and his girlfriend have been visiting Vieques seeking respite from city life. 36

Traditions

JOSÉ CARRASQUILLO

a child the night before Three Kings’ Day, I went out into the field, clipped the greenest leaves of grass, put them inside a shoe box, and then placed the box by my bed so that the horses transporting the Three Kings would have food once they entered the house. The north american counterpart tradition is to leave milk and cookies for Santa. But by late afternoon of December 25th Santa is on his way back to the North Pole while in Latin America and Spain, millions of children still await “el día de los Reyes Magos”. This is the day children traditionally receive holiday presents in Latin America. For many Christians around the world the holiday season doesn’t officially end until the 12th day of Christmas, also known as the Feast of the Epiphany or Three Kings’ Day. The holiday falls on January 6th and marks the adoration of the baby Jesus by the Three Kings.

In Vieques, Three Kings’ Day is an integral part of our annual Christmas holidays. During the holidays, families, neighbors and sometimes entire towns come together to celebrate our traditions. In addition to Three Kings’ Day here is a list of some of the things that make our holiday festivities in Puerto Rico one of the wonders of the cultural and culinary world! 1. Food: Pasteles (Puertorican tamales) served with arroz con gandules (yellow rice with pigeon peas); Lechón (roasted pig) cooked in a back yard fire pit seasoned to perfection; Tembléque (coconut custard) for dessert. A staple of the season is Turron, a confection made of honey, sugar, egg whites and toasted almonds. ............................... 2. Drink: Coquito, our traditional homemade version of eggnog combines coconut, rum and spices. For the fearless, there is Agua Ardiente and Pitorro. These are extremely strong libations and not recommended for the lightweight. ............................... 3. Music: The holidays are a time of celebration and music. Our very own cultural tradition is the Parranda. A Parranda is an unannounced serenade that

aims to wake up the recipients (and their immediate neighbors). The recipient of a Parranda is expected to open his/her house, offer holiday food and drink to the parranderos and join the Parranda on the next stop. Many parrandas last into the next morning. The last Parranda of the night ends with an asopao (a chicken stew) expected to be prepared by the last host on the Parranda list. ...............................

............................... 5. “Noche Buena”— Christmas eve is a night when families get together to eat traditional food, celebrate, tell stories, sing, dance and wait for Christmas. Devout Catholics still attend midnight mass. ............................... 6. “Despedida de año”— New Year’s Eve is usually celebrated in the town plaza with music and dance from

early evening until midnight and beyond! At midnight, Puertoricans say good bye to the old year by throwing a bucket of water outside their door. The New Year is welcomed with a display of fireworks! ............................... 7. “Las octavitas”—We celebrate the holidays a little longer than most. We add 8 more days after Three Kings’ Day.

4. Musical instruments: string instruments such as the guitar and the Cuatro are a staple of our holiday music. The Cuatro is the national instrument of Puerto Rico. It belongs to the lute family of string instruments. A cuatro player is called a cuatrista. In addition, percussion instruments are key to the tempo and rhythm of our music. The two most significant percussion instruments are the Guiro and the Palitos. The Guiro is an instrument consisting of a hollow gourd with parallel notches cut in one side. The Guiro is played by rubbing a fork like gadget along the notches. The Palitos, two cylindrical hardwood sticks played by hitting one against the other, are Puertorican instruments that set rhythm.

LA RONDALLA DE VIEQUES On December 16, the Vieques Concert Society (VCS) in partnership with the W Hotel and Spa is producing the cultural event of the holiday season with their Winter Concert. The concert will feature La Rondalla de Vieques under Jorge Camacho’s direction. This is a not-to-bemissed opportunity to hear a group of gifted young cuatristas from Vieques play our national instrument. The Guiro is likely to make a surprise appearance. And every concert goer will get a taste of Coquito. Artistic Director, Annette Bou says, “the Winter Concert will showcase the talent of La Rondalla de Vieques with an impressive repertory range that will include some of our beloved holiday classics. We are also proud to have saxophone virtuoso, Edgar Abraham as the musical guest.” Edgar recently headlined, Edgar Abraham: Unique—A Musical Journey at Carnegie Hall in NYC. The SOLD-OUT concert, a fusion of Classical Music, Contemporary Jazz and Caribbean Rhythms, wowed musical east coast critics.

XVII TROVA NAVIDEÑA Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:00 pm Public Plaza of Vieques sábado, 20 de diciembre de 2014 desde las 8:00 pm Plaza Pública de Vieques ARTISTAS INVITADOS / INVITED ARTISTS Luis Daniel Colón y sus Niños Trovadores Mon Silva, “El Trovador de Isla Nena” Christian Nieves y Herencia Musical Moncho Rivera y su Orquesta

GUIDE TO

Fried PASTELILLOS

Similar to an american “turnover”, these are flour pockets stuffed with beef, chicken, fish, crab, shrimp, lobster, or conch and then deep fried. .............................

QUENEPA The pleasantly acid-sweet flesh of the fruit of the quenepa tree, macerated for a spell in clear rum, is the quintessential ingredient in Vieques’ official summer cocktail – bilí. Originally a native of Columbia and Venezuela, the fruit is cultivated widely throughout the Caribbean. They readily sprout from seed, and visitors can spot wild specimens growing all along our roads. It is called genip in the U.S.V.I. and in English it is often called honeyberry. The trees are dioecious – meaning there are male and female trees, like the familiar hollies up north. • The quenepa belongs to a distinguished plant family; the Sapindaceae, making it a New World cousin of the Old World’s tropical lychee, longan and rambutan. • The flowers are rich in nectar and a favorite of hummingbirds and bees. • If you are here during quenepa season, you must procure some from roadside vendors. You simply pop open the leathery green skin and put the large, jelly-covered seed in your mouth. Roll it around and suck out the juice, then discard the pit. Everybody does it – and at certain times of the year it looks like the entire populace has jaw breaker candy in their mouths. It is another true island experience.

BILÍ

RECIPE Compliments of Chef Eva Bolivar Bilí Restaurant INGREDIENTS: 8 cups of white rum 2 1/2 lbs. of quenepas 1 1/2 cups of brown sugar 1/2 tsp. of vanilla 1 stick of cinnamon

PROCEDURE: Cut the quenepas open and mix with sugar and vanilla. Continue combining until the sugar dissolves. Add the rum slowly and keep mixing until you have used all of it. Taste for sweetness, and if needed, add a little more sugar. Add the cinnamon stick and put it in a bottle; cover tightly.

SORULLOS DE MAÍZ

Corn meal fritter stuffed with cheese. Like a corn dog without the dog– substitute cheese please! ............................. RELLENO DE PAPA

For the “meat & potatoes” kinda guy. Potato ball stuffed with ground beef and then dropped, like a hot potato, into the deep frier. ............................. RELLENO DE YUCA

See above but substitute potatoes with yuca, a buttery root vegetable. This you have to try! ............................. AREPAS

Flash fried flour patties. Solo, as a side dish, or stuffed with savory filling! They can also be baked with guava paste and cheese. ............................. TOSTONES

Take a chunk of plaintain, fry it, squish it, then fry it again. Like a thick tasty potato chip, but with plaintains of course! Served as a side, solo, or with a garlic butter dip. ............................. ALCAPURRIAS

Grated root mixture stuffed with meat and then fried. A starch and protein tamale bomb! ............................. BACALAITOS

A savory, crispy, pancake. Made with codfish, tomato sauce and sofrito, in a flour batter and then fried in a pan. ............................. AMARILLOS

Slice a yellow, ripe plaintain to 1/4 inch slivers, fry in butter or oil for a sweet, delicious side dish.

Lechón Ooh,

it’s the smell of savory, slow-roasting cracklings dripping into the fire, a special seasoning deep inside the crispy skin. It’s the natural juices of the pig meat cooking itself from within. It’s lechon. If you’ve ever driven past Don Tito’s Lechonera on Christmas Eve, you’ll be intoxicated by the aroma. On that eve up to thirty pigs are slow roasted overnight at the Lechonera, and a delicious cloud of smoky, mouth-watering goodness surrounds the area like a fog. Up to thirteen pigs can be roasted at the same time in the many ovens, actually large rectangular, cinderblock boxes covered with tin. And it’s not just Christmas Eve that gets them fired up. Every Friday the warm, sizzling-red glow continues all night long to fill Saturday’s orders from the community. After roasting, the pigs are chopped by a machetewielding Papo, weighed, and packaged by his friend and helper Ismael Camacho Felix. Customers come and go, and Papo’s sons June, 20, and Tingue, 17, are busy organizing deliveries. Papo remembers working for his father as his sons now work with him, indicating how different it was back then. For one, the pigs were raised and slaughtered right there on the property. Don Tito raised the pigs and fed them with the scraps he bought for one cent

a pound from the school cafeterias. Also back then the pigs were roasted over homemade charcoal that he and his boys made by chopping bayaonda wood, burning the wood under layers of grass and dirt for days. The ovens were converted to gas eleven years ago when the wood for charcoal became scarce and new burning restrictions were enforced. But some things stay the same. Although the seasoning recipe has been changed slightly over the years, it has been passed down from father to son. It is made in 5 gallon buckets, with fresh ground herbs that Papo grinds into the mix. During the busy times Papo’s lechonera is bustling with activity as friends come to share in the work, have their say and sample the fare. Six pounds to Mr. Che Belardo, twelve pounds to Papa Fú from Monte Santo, three pounds to Junito Corcino of Villa Borinquen; the handwritten orders are crossed off as they are packaged. And when all the deliveries are out you can probably find Papo catching up on his sleep in the hammock. Order lechon by the pound by Wednesday afternoon for pick-up on Saturday morning. Call Papo at 787.741.2898 or 787.617.2748 to order. Be prepared to speak a little Spanish!

Leatherback returns to Playa Grande

VQS017 BY: KELLY THOMPSON

“Coqui Girl to Peaches, do you copy? Movin’on to number 2.” “Copy that.”

was 8pm and we were on our first round of walking Playa Grande, monitoring the nesting sites of the leatherbacks and watching for the massive turtles to emerge from the ocean to dig new nests. And for a good reason. So far, in this Vieques nesting season, which lasts from mid-April through June, there were 21 documented leatherback nests, a number down from previous years and a concern to biologists worldwide. So, while many on the island were dining and dancing away the Sunday night before Memorial day, a team of four women were packing snacks and headlamps to spend from 7pm - 4am patrolling the beach, hoping to aid the critically endangered leatherback. The danger is two-fold. We could come across a turtle depositing her eggs in a nest too close to the water, which would require us moving them to a safe location. Or, hatching “tinglares” could emerge from a nest and need assistance to make it to the ocean.

I N S T A G R A M C O N T E S T The authentic “Insider” view of Vieques is by those who live, work, and play here. Whether enjoying a sunset or bored in math class, these are moments of real island life by people who go to school, go to work, babysit their brother, or are falling in love for the first time.

and the winner is >> 3RD HAIRCUT Yatzil L. Ramos Cruz 2 years old Photo taken by his sister Tanyaí Garcia Cruz D I C I E M B R E

CONCURSO DEL

S E L F I E MÁS LOCO Envíennos sus selfies. Cuanto más loco, mejor! El ganador/la ganadora ganará el premio de “mejor selfie loco” y recibirá un certificado de regalo de

$25

para el restaurante Carambola! Kelly@viequesinsider.com o envía tu selfie por texto al 787.435.3172

D E C E M B E R

WA C K I E S T S E L F I E CONTEST Send me those selfies folks. The wackier the better. Winner gets the Wacky award plus a

$25

gift certificate to Carambola Restaurant! kelly@viequesinsider.com or text to 787.435.3172

spontanieques

Limbers 3 discover the Fun!

The limber, a frozen, fruity treat not unlike the stateside popsicle, was named in honor of Charles A. Lindbergh who flew to Puerto Rico on his 26th birthday on Feb. 4 1928 and, after landing, was offered one. Served out of a plastic cup rather than on a stick, the limber offers endless flavor options made with local island fruit or fruit juice. It is a quintessentially refreshing frozen indulgence and is sold out of homes in almost every neighborhood of Vieques. Kids stop by vendors on their way home from school and adults scrutinize nearby choices during lunch breaks. But you have to know where to go! Luckily, you can sample limbers at Chepito’s video store in Barrio Florida (Flo-Ree-da), where the freezer in the back is alway stocked full of a kaleidoscope of colorful frozen cups. Hopefully, choosing your favorite flavor will be the toughest decision of your day.

ways to eat a limber

1. Bite it from the top and squeeze the cup! The relaxed Rasta approach; the “No worries mahn, I’ll get to the bottom of it eventually” approach. This can ultimately lead to disaster, or at least purple, orange or pink teeth. Risk factor of ending up with a facial of frozen, flavored ice? High. Personality type - no nonsense, laid back, practical. Note: people with delicate dentition, false teeth or perhaps no teeth at all should avoid this method. 2. Flip the limber in the cup so the small end is at the top and the wider end is wedged into the middle of the cup. (Which is no easy feat on it’s own.) Even though this eats more like a sno-cone and can seem like an alluring idea at first, ultimately, the melted liquid ends up at the bottom of the cup with the unsecured frozen solids at the top. Risk factor of sloshing ice-cold juice down your front? Very High. Personality type - inquisitive, optimistic and playful. Note: first daters and kids should avoid this method. Or anyone wearing white - especially after Labor Day. Stain remover in the laundry room recommended. 3. Use a spoon. This would be considered the “high maintenance” way as limbers are not served with a spoon. Only practical if you always carry a spoon with you or live close to your local limber vendor. Risk factor of any major accident? Extremely Low. Personality type - uber practical, happy and in harmony with the world because they live near a limber vendor!

bite

lick

spoon