insider VIEQUES
NOV / DEC / JAN • 2015 / 16
vol. 2 issue 2 • 787.435.3172 www.viequesinsider.com
CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES
vieques flavor FISHERMEN & CHEFS A DAILY BALANCE VEGETARIAN & VEGAN OPTIONS
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Island ambience Amazing food
Next Course
c u i s i n e i n s p i r e d b y t r av e l
Specializing in
HOUSE DRY AGED BEEF &
LOCAL LOBSTER
sample menu
..............
Wasabi dusted fried Spanish octopus, Toragashi spiced fingerling potatoes, toasted sesame aioli House dry aged beef Carpaccio, mixed greens, pickled red onion, capers, grain mustard Caesar, Parmigiano Reggiano
787-741-1028
Pan seared catch of the day, herb whip potato, caramelized onion and spinach puree, grape tomato salad
Reservations Appreciated nextcourseinfo@yahoo.com
Dry aged beef cut of the day, twice baked potato croquets, tomato confit, herb butter
nOveMber
Open Fri-Tues • 5:30-10pM Closed Wednesdays & Thursdays Open Thanksgiving 11/26
deceMber
Open 7 days • 5:30-10pM Closed 12/2-12/17 Reopening Friday 12/18
January
Open Fri-Wed • 5:30-10pM Closed Thursdays next course is open all Holidays.
Double cut bone in pork chop. 3 days in a brine, 3 hours on the smoker, grilled to perfection, butternut squash puree, pancetta roasted brussel sprouts, maple Dijon glaze. Butter poached Caribbean lobster, white truffle scented crab risotto, prosciutto bound asparagus, caramelized fennel cream. Dark Chocolate, pretzel crusted cheesecake with toasted Marshmallow merengue 3
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Ocean View On the Malecón
Vieques Catering Weddings and eVents
Restaurant Open Thurs – Tues. • 11am to 10pm Weekends closing time 11pm • Closed on Wednesdays
787.741.1382 Choose Vieques Catering to cater and plan your wedding or event. Custom care and attention to detail is our speciality. And, of course, the food! Menus customized for you. Catering by Chef Eva Bolivar www.viequescatering.com • viequescatering@yahoo.com
Creative Puerto Rican Cuisine
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CONGRATS TO VIEQUES! FELICITACIONES VIEQUES! Vieques has joined the worldwide, green movement to ban the use of single-use plastic bags to protect the environment. The ordinance was proposed by the President of the Vieques Municipal Legislature, Gypsy Cordova Garcia, and signed into effect by mayor Victor Emeric on April 24, 2015. The Earth commends you! •••••••••••• Vieques se ha unido al movimiento verde que esta sucediendo en todo el mundo para prohibir el uso de bolsas de plástico y proteger el medio ambiente. La Ordenanza #19 fue propuesta por el Presidente de la Legislatura Municipal de Vieques, Gypsy Córdova García, y firmada por el Alcalde Víctor Emeric. La Madre Naturaleza lo agradece.
STARTING JANUARY 1, 2016 THERE WILL BE NO PLASTIC BAGS AVAILABLE AT GROCERY STORES, COLMADOS, OR RETAIL BUSINESSES. BRING YOUR OWN REUSABLE BAG OR BOX! A partir 01 de enero 2016; No habrá bolsas plásticas disponibles en las tiendas, colmados o negocios. Traiga su propia bolsa reusable o caja! 8
on a 47 foot Sailing Yacht
Appetizers, lunch, beer, rum punch, soft drinks, water, homemade desserts, and snorkel equipment included. Custom tours available. Enjoy a full day of sailing and snorkeling 10am - 5 pm
787.930.5610 787.930.5611
Book Online: www.caribbeanladysailing.com Fully licensed by U.S. Coast Guard, Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, DPRNA Fully Insured, Endorsed by Tourism Company of Puerto Rico
VIE
places finder
UES
places finder
places finder 9
Men’s Linen Shirts Silkscreened Tshirts Sea Glass Jewelry Organic Sunscreen Sunglasses Havaianas Natural Bug Spray Puerto Rican Coffee Local Hot Sauce Local Art & Jewelry Funny Cards Beach Hats
Funky
Beehive 10
Island clothing, locally made gifts! ISABeL II • LOOk FOR MORe INFO ON FACeBOOk • 787.741.3192
Trade Winds ON THE MaLECON iN ESPERaNza
s o d i n e v en
Serving spectacular views with fine food since 1984
B
i
KKKKK
Lobster Special Nightly KKKKK
Relax and Enjoy
With The Best View Of The Caribbean Sea HAPPY HOUR drink specials 5 to 6:30 GREAT FOOD! GREAT PEOPLE! GREAT PLACE!
Breakfast/ lunch
Dinner
Signature Filet Mignon
Harris Ranch Churrasco Fresh Fish and Seafood Vegetarian Entrees Chicken, Pork, Veal Chef’s Specials Nightly 5:30 - 9:30
K
Western Omelette Huevos Rancheros Corned Beef Hash Lobster Benedict The Best Burgers Salads Galore BREAKFAST 7:30-11:30 LUNCH 11:30-2:00
seaside Guest house & Gift shop Great location • Walk to the beach $90 - $115 double a/c • breakfast included Gift shop open every day at 9am
CHECK OUT OUR MENU aND SPECiaLS aT:
www.tradewindsvieques.com
787.741.8666 / 787.672.9927 aLWaYS CHiLDREN FRiENDLY tradewindsvieques@gmail.com
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ferry schedule Vieques to Fajardo Fajardo to Vieques 6:00 am 4:00 am (only Mon-Fri) 6:30 am (only Fri, Sat & Sun) 9:00 am 11:00 am 1:00 pm 3:00 pm 4:45 pm 6:30 pm 8:15 pm Schedule subject to change. Non-residents can be bumped if ferry is full.
Los FrutaLes Sublime views from this remodeled move in ready three bedroom, two bath home with swimming pool on an acre lot in Monte Santo. Off-road gated parking area, and private walled back yard landscaped with tropical plants and fruit trees. The open floor plan main level has two bedrooms and a bathroom, beautifully furnished living areas, a OAK brand-new kitchen, and custom doors, window shutters and cabinetry. The lower floor has an additional bedroom, a living room and a bathroom. Wonderful roof top deck with a romantic dining area, perfect to enjoy the dramatic views and the stars. Titled. $645,000 motivated seller. a blank canvas with a view, & room for everything! Solid two unit home with outstanding views on a 3,056.20 sq mt lot in Villa Borinquen. Main unit has 3 huge bedrooms, 2 bathrooms (one en suite), all new tile, many newly replaced windows, and a balcony with great views. Kitchen remodeling in progress. Very large efficiency apartment on lower level for extra income, a home business, or whatever. Secure marquesina with a separate gated driveway. Nice big yard with picnic area. Titled. $315,000 the hard work has been done. Recently remodeled 2 bedroom 1 bath home with front porch views in an up and coming neighborhood in Villa Borinquen. Open concept living space & kitchen, new doors, windows, bathroom, kitchen & back balcony, but still plenty of opportunity to personalize it inside & out. Sweet little income producing 2 bedroom apartment downstairs. 677 sq mt lot with a shell of a casita which could be a studio or home office or another apartment. Build stairs to the roof for even better views of the Atlantic. Titled. $289,000 a solid affordable family home on a 712.70 sq mt lot in Santa Maria, close to everything. Nice big kitchen, 4 bedrooms, 2 full baths. Roomy yard with mature fruit trees, including sour orange, jobos, tamarind, mangos, papaya, bananas & coconuts, and a foundation for an additional structure. Glimpse the ocean from downstairs and the marquesina, but access the roof for a nice view of the ocean & Culebra. Would benefit from some updates. Titled. $149,000
phone 787.741.7001 cell 787.458.7997 fax 787-741-1497 www.islandrealestate.net 575 German Rieckehoff Vieques, PR 00765 12
safety tips
Many visitors think that Vieques is a sleepy, laid back island where you can lay in your hammock on the beach without a care in the world. For the most part, this is true. But petty theft is everywhere and your vacation can end badly without some precaution and common sense. Follow some safety tips and always be aware of your surroundings and belongings. ALWAYS lock the doors where you are staying. Period. First floor, second floor, every door.
DON’T leave a cell phone or iPad charging next to an open window. Never leave house keys next to a window.
DON’T take valuables to the beach.
NEVER leave valuables unattended.
DON’T lock your car at the beach. Leave it open with nothing in it.
USE COMMON SENSE when walking around at night. Never walk on the beaches alone after dark.
DRIVING SAFETY ON FWS REFUGE The speed limit on the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge is 5-25 MPH depending on location so please pay attention to the signs. Failure to do so could result in a fine. Speeding creates washboard bumps on the gravel roads, which lead to more accidents and limits road travel for locals who do not drive large trucks or rental SUVS. Hikers, joggers, cyclists, horseback riders, wildlife and many others use the roads. Please slow down when passing on a road and be considerate of others. Also note that the closing time during the of the FWS gate is 6:30 pm (October 1st to March 31st).
Enjoy the beauty and peacefulness of Vieques.
W H E R E TO
R E C Y C L E
WEST END RECYCLING OFFICE Follow 200 going West. After you pass the pier take your first left before the large field across from Milivy Church. (If you get to the church you have gone too far.) / Drive 0.25 miles and look for signs for the recycling office on the left. ESPERANZA Located at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust it is across from the Malecon and next to Duffy’s Restaurant. The recycling containers are in front yard.
MATERIALS RECYCLED • P L A S T I C, C A R D B O A R D, PA P E R, ALUMINUM G l a d y s Ve l a zq u e z 7 8 7 . 7 4 1 . 5 0 0 0 e x t . 2 3 5 1 o r e ma i l reciclaje.gmv@gmail.com
RAINBOW REALTY AND VIEQUES ON NEW CARIBBEAN LIFE TV SERIES! Show times on our website and Facebook page! PUERTO REAL TiTLEd • $349,000
Experienced and Knowledgeable Brokers... land, cOmmercial and residenTial real esTaTe sales
PLUS VACATION AND LONG TERM RENTALS! Office Hours: mOn - wed 11am-4pm THurs, saT & sun 10am-2pm Friday’s and OTHer Times by appOinTmenT
OFFice: 787.741.4312 cell: 787.435.2063 email: rainbowvqs@gmail.com 278 Flamboyan esperanza Gustavo marin, broker 787.225.5604 (lic 9905) lin wetherby, Owner broker 787.380 4990 (lic 7941)
www.viequesrainbowrealty.com
Casa Ada - Puerto Real
Located in peaceful, private and quiet Puerto Real, is this sweet 3/2 on 1 acre. With furnishings and appliances, plus 2 large decks for outdoor living… and plenty of room to add a pool. Split AC’s, security windows and doors…MOVE IN ready!
BASTimEnTO BEACh! TiTLEd • $699,000
2 – 1 bdrm units on almost ½ acre . Plenty of room to expand. Really well built and an excellent rental history. HUGE Gazebo for outdoor living…20 steps to a sweet sandy beach. Heaven!
wATERfROnT - ABABOR SUiTES
Vieques...the land of opportunity!
puerto rico offers huge tax haven and exemptions! call us! https://www.facebook.com/viequesrainbowrealty
small or bs big jo r a Free
call us Fo ion! consultat
939-289-0808 call today!
Pico y Pala From demolition to Final touches... we get the job done.
Wood or cement–competency and local knowledge are at our core. electrical work plumbing construction -from ground up to light repairs finishing work-plastering, windows, tiling, painting, rejas
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EDITOR, PUBLISHER
KELLY THOMPSON
ASSISTANT EDITOR
TOM O’GRADY
WEB MASTER ART DIRECTION / DESIGN GENERAL ASSISTANT BOOKKEEPER
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
................................
W H AT ’ S O N Y O U R P L AT E ? I grew up basically raising, canning and catching our food. I appreciated the labor that went into making one jar of spaghetti sauce. It was impossible to rush a meal knowing it had taken months of hard work to produce it. But sometimes life’s schedules have a way of keeping us so busy that we forget to be present. We forget to enjoy and appreciate the little things, like a great meal. Fortunately these days, a reminder sits at the table with me. I watch my five year old daughter as I set a plate in front of her, and time slows. Toast cut into four squares becomes a game of eeny meeny miny moe. She whispers secrets to her cherry tomatoes. Popsicles always get a song while they melt before her mouth. And pancakes? Timeless projets d’arts. I thank her each day for keeping me present. For some, there is but one week a year, once chance, to stop and clear the plate. Vacation. If you’ve chosen Vieques you’ve made an excellent choice. If you’re yearning for that special taste of food, life and time at a memorable pace, even better. It should be the only thing you see on your plate while you are here. The fishermen on the water at dawn, the chefs chopping away in the kitchens, the waitstaff setting the tables, the bartenders mixing and muddling; it’s all for your enjoyment; because it’s your time. Savor it. Appreciate the time it took to procure, create and ultimately lay that dish in front of you. We are glad you are here to dine with us. Buen Provecho! (And don’t forget to tell your tomatoes.) Kelly Thompson
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MARC MARGATE KELLY THOMPSON CHEO DIAZ MALDONADO CAROLINE KIRKBRIGHT
787.435.3172
WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM info@viequesinsider.com CONTRIBUTORS
Scott D. Appell, the Green Man, originally from NYC, is a garden writer, horticultural taxonomist and ethnobotanist. He writes, gardens, and teaches horticulture. He happens to be a professional baker as well.
José Carrasquillo has lived in Vieques for 11 years. Stateside he’s a theatre director and educator. Here in paradise José is the co-owner of a guesthouse, works as a volunteer for not-forprofit organizations, and logs hundreds of miles every year running all over Vieques.
Amy Gordon is a freelance travel writer who doesn’t feel quite right without a tan. Her articles have appeared in outlets including Harper Traveler, Where Traveler, BizBash, and Slow Living.
Tom Kirkbright, a USCG Licensed Captain, and his wife Caroline first set foot on Vieques in 2004. They fell in love with its people, beaches and charm. They bought a house and moved from NJ to enjoy the island life and spend time “On The Water”.
Put your thinkin’ cap on! If you have ideas for stories please share them with us! Email kelly@viequesinsider.com
Tom O’Grady Jr. is an author and freelance writer from Philadelphia with literature and writing degrees from Temple University (B.A.) and Rutgers University (M.A.). Tom has written in numerous commercial genres including business and training, marketing and advertising and newspaper and magazine features. He has focused on writing fiction for the last five years and has published three novels, all available on Amazon.com and select stores. His fourth novel will be out in December. Daphne Vosberg, our newest contributing resident of Vieques, is discovering the island with fresh eyes and recording her journey. With a passion for writing, particularly poetry, you might see her about with journal in hand. We are excited to see what she discovers next! Steve Simonsen is a photographer and underwater naturalist residing on St. John. Steve specializes in underwater, aerial, villa and resort photography and video.
Paul Pitura is a journalist with the Canadian Broadcasting Corp. (CBC), a traveler, and a guitarist. Originally from Winnipeg, Canada, Paul visited Vieques for four months in the summer of 2015. He is fascinated by the island’s beauty, culture and history, and truly appreciative of the warm welcome received from the great people who call this wonderful island home.
The future looks bright. The next issue of Vieques Insider is the Feb-April issue and the theme is Romance & Fun! If you are interested in advertising email kelly@viequesinsider.com 15
Aurora’s
Chicken & Grill
Fine dining on the Malecón, esperanza
lace for “A perfect p do and grilled dora caipirinhas.” passionfruit
“Elevates native Ca ribbean ingredients… to a higher culinary plane.”
Monday - Saturday 5:30 to Close
reservations@elquenepovieques.com
787. 741.121 5
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17
T
realit
he Big Dipper and Orion’s Belt lit the way as I launched my kayak into the darkness of Mosquito Bay. It was a warm, breezy night on my first trip to Vieques, and the low moon made for ideal conditions to experience the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay. With each stroke of my paddle I painted the water a striking electric blue, only to watch the color dissipate just seconds later. I sat mesmerized by the schools of fish creating streaks beneath the surface, and my dreadlocked guide explained that we were witnessing millions of tiny, single-cell organisms glow as a form of selfdefense. Moments like this remind me that the world is an amazing place. Like most visitors, I first came to Vieques on vacation, seeking a coveted few days of sunshine and solace from the real world. Instead of escaping reality, however, Vieques taught me to redefine it. Old and new don’t just coexist here; they enhance each other, creating an inviting culture that embraces the best of both worlds. This is a place where schedules are set by the rhythms of the waves and the brightness of the moon rather than train times and traffic patterns. Where the soundtrack comes from coqui frogs and trotting horses, not honking horns and sirens. Where open-air buildings are the rule, not the exception. Where locals and visitors laugh and dance together along the malecon at night. Where instead of gray concrete and blacktop, the natural landscape provides a rich palette of turquoise waters, emerald green flora and pastel blue skies. As a travel writer, I am blessed to be able to experience some of the most beautiful and interesting spots on the planet. I’ve spent time in many places that take top honors in the obligatory annual lists in travel blogs and magazines, but the raw attraction that I have to this island is unlike anywhere else I’ve been. Out of all of the places that I travel to for work, Vieques is where I choose to spend my vacation time. Elation and belonging seep into my soul when I breathe in the salty air, and with each exhale the connection grows deeper still. You are in one of the most spectacular places in the world, and while you’re here, I urge you to experience as much magic as you can. Hike out to hidden respites like Playa Negra or Playuela. Let your server recommend a local dish you’ve never tried before. Grab your snorkel gear and head to Rompeolas for an afternoon underwater with sea turtles and schools of ballyhoo. Chat with a new friend over a round of Medallas at a beachside bar. Listen to the coqui calls as you scan the sky for shooting stars. It’s all within easy reach on this tiny Caribbean paradise. Natives and those who have moved here tell me that Vieques calls to certain people; the island tells you when to come and it lets you know when it’s time to leave. I don’t know when I’ll be back next, but I know it won’t be long. I am not quite done with this place yet, and thankfully, the feeling is mutual.
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KELLY THOMPSON
BY: AMY GORDON
stolen m om en t Casie Summers, owner of Next Course Restaurant and mother of two boys, poses for photographer Steve Simonsen on Sunbay while horses perform in the background.
KELLY THOMPSON
redefined 19
STEVE SIMONSEN PHOTOGRAPHY
ty
BUEN PROVECHO ENJOY YOUR MEAL!
CHURASCO................... FLANK STEAK
A LA PARILLA.. . . . . . . GRILLED
PERNIL.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . PORK SHOULDER
ASADO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ROASTED
BISTEC........................ STEAK
LECHÓN.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ROAST PIG CHULETA. . . . . . . . . . . . . PORK CHOP POLLO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHICKEN
FRITO.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FRIED
GUISADO..................... STEWED
EN ESCABECHE .......... PICKLED
CARNE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MEAT JAMÓN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HAM
CABRITO.................... GOAT
PAVO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TURKEY
ARROZ BLANCO CON HABICHUELAS / WHITE RICE & BEANS
CERDO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PORK
AMARILLOS / FRIED SWEET PLANTAINS
TOCINETA. . . . . . . . . . . BACON
CHICHARRÓN ............. PORK CRACKLINGS SALCHICHAS................ SAUSAGES ATÚN........................... TUNA PESCADO. . . . . . . . . . . . . FISH
DORADO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . MAHI
TIBURÓN..................... SHARK
LANGOSTA. . . . . . . . . . . LOBSTER
BACALAO ................... SALT COD CARRUCHO.................. CONCH
PAPAS FRITAS / FRENCH FRIES
TOSTONES / FRIED GREEN PLANTAINS AREPAS / FRIED DOUGH
ARROZ CON GANDULES / RICE WITH PIGEON PEAS
PASTELES / PUERTO RICAN TAMALES
PAPA ASADA / BAKED POTATOS MAMPOSTEO / FLAVORFUL RICE COOKED WITH HERBS AND VEGETABLES
to go sandwiches for the beach!
in Esperanza Open every day 8am-clOSe
787-248-2099 Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Authentic Puertorican Food
Serving fresh baked bread and pastries, gourmet coffee and espresso, tapas, cocktails, plus lunch and dinner specials. 20
PAN Fried GUIDE TO
D E AQUA
PA S T E L I L LO S
Similar to an american “turnover”, these are flour pockets stuffed with beef, chicken, fish, crab, shrimp, lobster, or conch and then deep fried. ............................. SORULLOS DE MAÍ Z
Corn meal fritter stuffed with cheese. Like a corn dog without the dog– substitute cheese please! ............................. R E L L E N O D E PA PA
For the “meat & potatoes” kinda guy. Potato ball stuffed with ground beef and then dropped, like a hot potato, into the deep frier. ............................. RELLENO DE YUCA
See above but substitute yuca for potatoes, a buttery root vegetable. This you have to try! ............................. ALCAPURRI AS
Grated root mixture stuffed with meat and then fried. A starch and protein tamale bomb! ............................. BACALAITOS
A savory, crispy, pancake. Made with codfish, tomato sauce and sofrito, in a flour batter and then fried in a pan.
101 Mofongo
by Amy Gordon
by: Scott D. Appell
Every culture has a bread, many of which become nationally recognized: German rye, Russian black and Armenian lavash are just a few examples. A LatinoCaribbean adaptation of French and Italian bread is Vieques’ pan de agua (water bread), available at any of our local bakeries. Basically white flour, yeast, salt and water, recipes vary slightly in texture and consistency with some bakers adding lard or shortening, unheard of in basic French and Italian loaves. Try them all to find your favorite. The name pan de agua comes from the baking technique. Shaped dough is put into a cold oven set above a pan of water and the temperature is set at 400˚F. The dough continues to rise as the oven heats and humidity increases, resulting in a thin and crisp crust. It is delicious warm and makes superb toast. The loaf stales quickly so it is best eaten the same day it is baked.
Find Pan de Agua at any of our local bakeries or at Café del Mar in Esperanza.
Lobster and shrimp stuffed mofongo in a carved pilón. Pilóns are used to mash the garlic, spices, and cooked roots. It is also a great souvenir of Puerto Rico.
Stop in any Puerto Rican restaurant on the island and you’re sure to see mofongo on the menu. This savory dish is a concoction of local staples like plantains, garlic, chichirrones (fried pork rinds) and spices, with variations common in other Caribbean nations like Cuba and the Dominican Republic. Despite its association with Puerto Rico mofongo evolved from an African dish called fufu, which slaves introduced to this part of the world when they were brought to the Spanish colonies in the 16th century. Whereas fufu is made by boiling and mashing root vegetables, mofongo makers typically fry green plantains and then smash them using a pilon (mortar and pestle). Each chef makes the dish a bit differently, some mashing yucca or breadfruit, but most all feature chicken, beef, seafood or vegetables to top off the dish. After you’ve tried a few versions, you’ll be ready to join the hotly contested debate over who makes the best mofongo on the island.
.............................
arenamar
Great Food, Vegetarian Options Frappés and Frozen Drinks
& & catering catering
We deliver on the beach!
Sunbay Sunbay café café
11am-SunSet 11am-SunSet SunSet SunSet happy happy hourS hourS
787-239-7771 The BEST Piña Coladas!
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New Tapas Menu 3 Nights A Week . . .
Every: Thursday, Friday and Saturday Starting At: 5:00pm All New Tapas Menu Creative Specialties Including Vegan Dishes
&
LIBATIONS UNCOMMON
Salud! To your Health! M OJ I TO
Muddled fresh mint leaves, lime, sugar, white rum and club soda. Super refreshing. For a twist on the usual ol’ mo, head to the Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Botique Resort and order a Moonjito! ....................... CUBA LIBRE
Traditional rum and coke. Add a lime! ....................... CHICHAÍTO
1 part Anisette or Anis 1 part white rum (any brand will do) Have one with Lyman right off the plane at the Isla Nena Café at the airport. But watch out, his motto is “one is never enough.” ....................... P A R C H A R I TA
This is a passionate twist on a margarita. Add parcha (passionfruit juice) instead of sour mix. Have one at Duffy’s on the Malecón. ....................... CAIPIRINHA
1/2 lime, quartered 1 teaspoon white sugar 2 1/2 fluid ounces cachaca (distilled spirit made from sugarcane juice) 1 cup ice cubes ....................... RUM PUNCH
Orange, Pineapple, Cranberry, Passionfruit juices. Add, you guessed it, rum! Order the TWIPP (TradeWinds Island Passion Punch) served in a Ball canning jar. ....................... COQUITO
Creamy tropical coconut eggnog made with spices and white rum. ....................... P I Ñ A CO L A DA
Try one at Buen Provecho with fresh squeezed pineapple juice! .......................
O Road 996 Km. 4.3, Puerto Real, Vieques, P.R. 787.741.3318 / 787.741.0190 22
Did you know? There is a great wine selection at El Sombrero Viejo in Isabel II. Cigars too!
The Best One Yet
Suka Rivera, bartender at the Blue Moon Bar at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort serves a frozen Tamarind Mojito.
BY AMY GORDON
A few hours in the sun and a couple of tropical island punches can affect even the most sophisticated vacationers. Don’t worry, we have all been there at one time or another. Remember, there are no stupid questions...but there are some funny ones. We asked some of our favorite local waitstaff, bartenders and tour guides to recount some of the funniest questions they’ve heard from tourists and visitors. Here are some that make you go hmmmm.
“Is the island surrounded by water?” “How long does it take to drive to San Juan?” “Do you live here?” [It would be a difficult commute. ]
Bar & liquor wine Liquor beer Store cool
Open everyday 12 noon to sometime after midnight Abierto desde el mediodia hasta algun momento despues de la media noche todos los dias
the place where the
“Are there sharks in the ocean?” “Could you turn down the ambient sounds?” and the best one yet...
locals
EL S o m brero Viejo
BESt PricES
“Are there beaches on the island?”
MEjOrES PrEciOS
“What kind of fish is in the tuna tacos?”
AkA “kuhnS”
200 vinos
BETTER MAKE MINE A
Light
wines
cigars
Behind the Post Offiice Isabel II Detras del correo en Isabel II
pronounced Med-dah-ya Until 2011, this was the only mass-produced beer in Puerto Rico and comes in one version only; Light. 23
Vieques
Gifts
The little
store
with a lot of stuff
Beach SupplieS havianaS local art & craftS viequeS SouvenierS clothing men’S and women’S SwimSuitS jewelry and much more!
787.741.4197
on the Malecon in esperanza since 2003 open everyday
Vieques has never sounded better! Listen to Better Together (Unidos Mejor),stories about the natural, historical, educational and cultural happenings on the island.
Tuesday and Thursday nights at 7 p.m. Streaming at www.radiovieques.net
email: info@radiovieques.net • 24
787 375-0525
Names, Identity, and Historical Importance During the time of the U.S. Navy presence on Vieques, the beaches were renamed based on colored flags placed on them for training exercises. Set in motion by elders and community leaders from Vieques, the effort has been underway to reclaim the former names of the beaches and restore their cultural significance and longevity. Internet sites and publications still use the Navy names of beaches and you will hear many islanders still using the English names as well. But while you are here, please paint a mental map in your mind with the original Spanish names. The English names are listed on the right for your reference to the pull-out map on the inside back cover. Thank you for participating in this milestone effort by honoring and using the original Spanish names of the beautiful beaches of Vieques.
Cell Service at the Beach If you hire a publico to take you to the beaches remember to arrange a pick up time before they drive off because cell service may not be available.
Fix a Flat Pick one of these up at any convenience store or gas station on the island and save yourself a lot of trouble. Flats happen and usually not in the most convenient places. Just connect, inflate and go! It will only seal temporarily so call your rental company for directions on where to go to get it fixed.
CARACAS Red Beach
LA PLATA Orchid Beach
PLAYUELA Garcia Beach
PUNTA ARENAS Green Beach
PATA PRIETA Secret Beach
CAMPAÑA Purple Beach
LA CHIVA Blue Beach
MATIAS Yellow Beach
A Twist or a Tap If your car won’t start when leaving the beach, before panicking, first check your battery cable connections. On rough roads they tend to bounce and loosen. Tighten them up or give them a tap and try again!
Fill Up or Top Off! During high season [Thanksgiving through Easter] and holidays the two gas stations on the island routinely run out of gas. The gas trucks come on the ferry so it can be a long wait if you run out. When it is busy the lines form in one direction only and sometimes go around the block. If you see an empty spot at the pump, before pulling in, check to see if there is a line coming from the opposite direction. Go with cash, they don’t take debit or credit cards.
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ISLA VIDA Clothing, Gifts, Island Living Island Clothing. T-Shirts. Sarongs. Sea Glass. Local Gifts & Home Decor. Beach Chair & Umbrella Rentals. Smoothies. Snacks. Iced Coffee.
Visit us in Isabel II 368 Calle Antonio G Mellado
(787) 741-1397
www.islavidavqs.com
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J U LI E D E C HTE R OWNER/BROKER #11261 SE HABLA ESPANOL
email: info@viequesrealtyandrentals.com
787-209-8868
www.viequesrealtyandrentals.com
Casa del marullo
Beachfront Turn-Key Home
TiTled • $775,000
Casa del Marullo/House of the Waves enjoys a prime location on beautiful La Chata Beach in the Bravos de Boston/Santa Maria Playa neighborhood. The spacious two-bedroom/two bath home is offered furnished turn-key and has operated as a successful vacation rental for over ten years. Privately situated on a large .37 acre titled land parcel with direct access to the sandy beach, there is plenty of room for expansion of the residence and the perfect space for construction of a fantastic swimming pool. Absolutely stunning, panoramic views of ocean, sky and neighboring islands. What Caribbean dreams are made of!
As featured in Islands Magazine 2013,2014 and 2015.
Come walk on water with SurfSUP paddle board tours and rentals. Call 787-232-6906 and book your tour today. Sunset tours available too. Prices are $50 per person. Includes lesson and 1 hour tour! $40 without a lesson. Discounts available for Vieques residents and repeat customers. 27
Avocado Gelato Vieques Car rental 787.741.1037 viequescarrental@gmail.com
Convenient online booking! Vehicles for all price ranges.
www.viequescarrental.com
787-741-4661 or find us on facebook!
www.seagatehotel.com Private & small groups by appointment only.
SeaGate Hotel offers very comfortable lodging at an affordable price!
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Come ride or stay with us!
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Sunset or daytime rides on the beach with memorable views to St.Thomas and Culebra.
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& HORSEBACK RIDING
Riding with SeaGate helps support our animal and horse rescue efforts.
BY: SCOTT D. APPELL
Did you know? In Brazil avocados are preferred as a dessert and not a salad item? Avocado ice cream is all the rage there, and it is divine! Here’s an easy recipe but you’ll need an ice cream maker.
BY: SCOTT D. APPELL
SODA CRACKERS GALORE
AVOCADO GELATO ................................................ 2 cups whole milk (if you’re vegan, substitute your favorite milk alternative) 3/4 cup sugar 3 (4 by 1 inch) strips fresh orange zest 2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 firm-ripe California avocados they’re the wrinkly, dark-skinned ones (about 1 to 1 1/4 lb. total) 1 500-mg vitamin C tablet, pulverized (ascorbic acid keeps the flesh bright green without imparting taste) In a 2-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, bring 1 3/4 cups milk, 1/2 cup sugar, zest and a pinch of salt to a simmer. Whisk together cornstarch and remaining 1/4 cup milk in a small bowl until smooth, then whisk into simmering milk and boil for 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a metal bowl and place into a larger ice and cold water-filled bowl to cool completely, stirring frequently. Discard zest. In a food processor purée the peeled and pitted avocados with the vitamin C and remaining 1/4 cup sugar. Add milk mixture and blend well. Freeze mixture in the ice cream maker and transfer to an airtight container.
When perusing the aisles of our local grocery stores you will notice a great deal of shelf space filled with various tins of soda crackers. You may ask yourself, “What on Earth are people doing with all these crackers?” The diet of the Taíno people contained many tropical roots and tubers with a myriad of preparations; boiled, steamed, baked and fried. One staple, yuca (pronounced djew-ka), was known to the Taínos as casaba, which later evolved into our English word cassava. From its grated roots, unleavened and gluten-free, cracker-like flat bread was griddle-baked on a hot stone. Today’s crackers are a direct connection to that long-time island staple. Additionally, Viequense cuisine abounds in deepfried fritters, croquettes and other tidbits. Pulverized cracker crumbs are integral to the recipes. These U.S. products are popularly called soda crackers (galletas de soda), and culinary historians believe they reproduce the crunchy texture of the original casaba bread. Happily, they remain crispy in their tins in our tropical humidity. And they are tasty!
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Charlie Maldonado holds the first catch of the day – a line of Red Snapper.
30
FISHERMEN
& Chefs All in a day’s work BY: TOM KIRKBRIGHT
Yes, the beaches are magnificent, the vistas stunning and the people friendly. It’s Vieques. But the island has another wonderful surprise in store for you; the dining experience. The secret? At the heart of all natural wonders is a balance, and it’s at work here every day to feed your spirit and your belly. We call it Fishermen and Chefs. On an island where delectables from the sea reign supreme, our Fishermen are the lifeblood, the very source of potential culinary success. In the hands of our skilled and versatile Chefs, that success becomes real. And you are the beneficiary of nature’s balance at its best.
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Sunrise Esperanza
Bilí’s red snapper filet over casava gnocchi, topped with shrimp, conch, a cilantro roasted garlic sauce, and topped with crispy cucumber fries.
Thomas weighs conch at the Pescaderia.
Dining at Bilí.
Caribbean Spiny Lobster
Trade Winds sesame seared fillet of Sama with scallion butter over sauteed vegetables and yellow rice. 32
Yaberebo Zenóa empties a trap full of lionfish.
ROU N D the clock 2am
Twinkling lights of boats on the horizon mean yellowtail could be on the menu tonight. Night fishermen Ismael Medina Carmona and Miguel (Micky) Rivera Soli will return with coolers full to sell to the restaurants later in the day.
Raffael Ayala pulls a big one out of a trap. Fresh, local lobster at Next Course.
6am
Lionfish ceviche at El Quenepo.
FISHERMEN
Red snapper are running, and fishermen Ciello Ponce and Charlie Maldonado are headed out to fish just inside the south shore drop off where the depth falls to over 1000 feet. Four hours later – 120 pounds of Red Snapper, 20 pounds of Black Snapper and a wayward Mutton Snapper. 11am
& Chefs This unique relationship between harvester and preparer works on a daily basis. The Fishermen of Isabel II and Esperanza rise early, ready the boats and trade valuable information on the previous day’s catch, then head to open water in hope of a good day’s bounty. Hours later the Chefs of the island are sorting fresh greens and vegetables, some delivered, some from surrounding properties. They are equally hopeful, already imagining the possibilities. Back on the pier, the Fishermen unload their catch then make a beeline to the restaurants. The Chefs welcome them, both parties beaming with smiles as they sort through the coolers; glistening Red Snapper, buttery Grouper, fat Yellowtail and sweet Caribbean lobster. The scene repeats all over the Island. The Fishermen - proud suppliers; the Chefs – grateful recipients. You, the customer? Let’s see, uh, breakfast? How about Lobster Benedict with tasty Bloody Marys to get your motor going. Lunch? Odds are that fish taco you’re raving about was a swimming yellowtail last night. Dinner? Forget about it; the selections are endless. Grouper at the Fish Fry. Whole fish, paella, mutton snapper, sea food Mofongo – the choices abound. You’ll taste the freshness every time. From the local Fishermen to the Chef to your table. Life in balance. Enjoy.
South shore fishermen unload their catch at the pier and make a beeline to the restaurants. North shore boats unload lobster, conch, and fish to restaurants or the Pescaderia for weigh and pay. Georgi Gabino has had a great day with 85lbs of lobster to sell. afternoon
Chefs welcome the fishermen and weigh their catch. Restaurant menus are born.
evening
Choose any restaurant on Vieques and it is likely you will find fresh, local fish on the menu compliments of the Fishermen and Chefs. A day complete... dinner is served!
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Pumba and the Ventura Family Fishermen
Q&A
This interview was translated from Spanish to English by Cheo Diaz Maldonado.
Ivan “Pumba” Ventura
Pumba’s daugher Alianis (Prieta) and son Ivan Armando (Ivandito) help their father catch red snapper.
You can’t talk about fishing on Vieques without hearing of the Ventura family. Generation after generation has gone to the boats including seven brothers, all taught to fish by their father, their uncles and their grandfather. Three of them still make their living today by fishing the surrounding waters of Vieques. Carlos (Prieto), Angel Manuel (Mamén), and Ivan (Pumba) Ventura are south side fishermen who supply many of the restaurants daily. I spoke with one of the brothers, Pumba Ventura, at his house, a rescued dog lying at his feet as his 8 year old son hovers close by. A single father raising three children with the help of his family, Pumba has the presence of a grizzly bear and the demeanor of a teddy bear. But he is better compared to a creature of the sea. That is where he spends his time. What is your earliest memory of fishing? It is all I can remember. We were on the water before we could even speak. ‘Yo soy marino.’ (I am of the or related to the water.) My first words were ‘soy mayeno’. I wasn’t saying it correctly but I was repeating what I heard. It is the same with my kids. Somos mariniños. They are always in the ocean. How do you teach your kids about the ocean and fishing? Little by little. I am still learning things about the ocean. My father taught me to never be afraid of the ocean but to never disrespect it. The wind, the currents, the seasons. It is a long process to teach about fishing because you will never have two days of fishing that are the same. Every day, you just try to pass on what you learn. Tomorrow will be different. Do you think that your kids will someday support themselves by fishing? Sometimes I hope no because it is getting harder and harder. But even so I am teaching them that it is a way to survive and to eat, too. The 34
first catch is to feed the family. The rest we sell. But first we make sure the family has enough. Do they go out fishing with you? Oh, ya. Sometimes I don’t have any other help so they are my help. And we do good. We pause so he can show me a video of his daughter catching a dorado and identifying it as a male or female. In the video you can hear Pumba ask her how she knows it is a female and she says because of the shape of its head. He stops the video and beams with pride. How do you fish? Lines, traps, diving? It always changes depending on the seasons and the fish. But I don’t dive. Sometimes I am the boyaero for divers, meaning the lookout to make sure that they don’t get too far from the boat. I have never lost a diver, gracias a dios. Men who dive for lobsters on the ocean floor can swim too far from the boat in their search and get lost. The ocean floor is like dry land. There are mountains, valleys, rocky areas, areas of vegetation and areas that are like the desert. There are areas that are
like farms and at certain times of the year there will be much produce. I guess we are like the farmers. We know where the produce will be, where the fish will be, and when. Right now we are line fishing for grouper. Grouper eat during the day but yellowtail at night so we fish at night for them. Sometimes you can see the sun set and rise in one day’s work. Do you sell your fish to the restaurants? Yes. We try to supply any restaurant who wants fresh fish. Quenepo, Bili, Duffy’s. My cousin sells to Tradewinds so I don’t usually go there, but to anyone who wants it. We put it in coolers on ice in the boat. The sun is our worst enemy. I try to avoid freezing it so I sell it right off the boat or from the back of my truck. They want it fresh. It can be there in hours. Do you love what you do? It is hard. But it is a passion. Even when I’m not fishing, sometimes I just have to go to the water.
LOBSTER
insider tip If you are fortunate enough to purchase live lobster do not put in fresh water. Wrap it in damp newspaper or a damp hand towel and place in fridge. It should last for about 48 hours. Lobsters hate to be dry and start to decompose as soon as they die.
Bilí Restaurant, Grilled Lobster
BY: SCOTT D. APPELL
CLAWS & LAWS Atlantic Lobsters contrasted with Caribbean Spiny Lobsters Although both species are marine arthropods (animals with jointed legs) that is the only thing they have in common. They are not closely related at all. The Atlantic or Maine lobster is native to the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean as far south as S. Carolina. It uses its powerful claw as a primary means of defense against predators. The spiny Caribbean lobster is only found in the warm waters of the southern United States through the Caribbean to Brazil and uses its formidable spine to protect them. Incidentally, lobsters turn red when prepared because a protein-bound pigment in their shells called astaxanthin is released when exposed to the heat of cooking.
A CONSUMER’S GUIDE
Did you know? Dorado is also known as Mahi Mahi, which means “very strong” in Hawaiian. Male Dorado heads are flatter and more square shaped than females.
ATLANTIC OR MAINE LOBSTER Langosta, bogavante (Spanish)
CARIBBEAN SPINY LOBSTER Langosta (Spanish)
Scientific name: Homarus americanus
Scientific name: Panuliris argus
Size: up to 24-inches
Size: up to 24-inches
Weight: usually up to 5-lbs.
Weight: usually up to 3 lbs.
Color: olive-green or greenish-brown before cooking
Color: brownish or brickorange with large white blotches.
Spines: none Claws: 2 large, asymmetrical.
Spines: overall and quite robust. Wear gloves if they are alive.
Legs: 8
Claws: none
Antennae: 2 long, slim.
Legs: 10
Edible parts: tail and claw meat is premium, but legs offer edible morsels and body offers delicious tidbits such as tomalley (liver) and coral (roe).
Antennae: 4, 2 of which are very stout.
Availability: Usually run as a special in some local restaurants. Perhaps obtainable fresh by special order.
Edible parts: The tail is the main attraction, although antennae offer tasty bits. Availability: Year round and in practically all Vieques eateries.
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ŠBilly Robin McFarland
Kayaking, Snorkeling, & Biobay Tours 8 DiffErEnt tours
Day anD night tours • 363 Days a year KiDs 11 anD unDEr arE 1/2 PricE! Visit our NEW storE on the Malecon in Esperanza for beach items, water gear, clothing, and gifts!
www.abessnorkeling.com
(787) 741-2134
Bar Bar & & Grill Grill
Enjoy Enjoy Outdoor Outdoor Dining Dining & & Spectacular Spectacular Caribbean Caribbean Sunsets Sunsets at at the the laid laid back back end end of of the the Malecon Malecon
Open Every Day! ..................... .....................
Belly Belly Warming Warming Breakfasts Breakfasts 9am 9am -- 11am 11am
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Belly Belly Busting Busting lunches lunches 11am 11am -- 3pm 3pm Enjoy Enjoy Breakfast Breakfast & & Order Order Your Your Beach Beach Lunch Lunch to to Go! Go!
Wednesday - Sunday ..................... .....................
Belly Belly Busting Busting Dinners Dinners 5pm 5pm -- 9pm 9pm Best sandwiches ! on the malecon
OutstanDing OutstanDing Ocean Ocean VieWs VieWs hanD hanD DippeD DippeD ice ice cream cream
weD. paella night 6pm - 8:30pm Reservations Encouraged
happy hour 3-7 pm wed-sun $2.50 coronas 1/2 price rum punch & margaritas
787.741.3336 www.bellybuttonsvieques.com on the malecon, esperanza
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wi-fi Visa/MC/DisCoVer
ACCOMMODATIONS Ababor Suites 787-435-2841 Acacia Guesthouse 787-741-1059 Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Bravo Beach Hotel (BBH) 787-741-1128 Casa de Amistad 787-741-3758 Casa de Kathy 787-565-2717 Casa La Lanchita 787-741-8449 Crow’s Nest 787-741-0033 El Blok 787-741-6020 Flamboyan Guesthouse 340-642-5882 787-741-9090 Hacienda Tamarindo 787-362-3324 787-741-8525 Hectors by the Sea 787-741-1178 Hix Island House 787-741-2302 La Finca Caribe 787-741-0495 Lazy Hostel 787-741-5555 Malecon House 787-741-0663 Sea Gate Hotel 787-741-4661 The Vieques Guesthouse 787-435-1513 Trade Winds Guesthouse 787-741-8666 Tropical Guest House 787-741-2449 Villa Coral 787-741-1967 W Vieques 787-741-4100 .................................. VACATION RENTAL HOUSES Bravos Beach Cottages 231-633-4076 Casa Angular 410-363-3284 Casa Colores 413-548-8053 Casa Vieques 909-894-6569 El Cerro 850-598-1415 Villa Uno 202-387-9812 ACCOMMODATIONS IN PUERTO RICO Casa Eloise Old San Juan 413 563-5951 AIR CONDITIONING SERVICE Dynamic Air Conditioning 787-364-1800 AIRLINES Air Flamenco Air Sunshine Cape Air M&N Aviation Vieques Air Link
787-741-8811, 4121 888-879-8900 800-352-0714 787-791-7090 787-741-8331
ART GALLERIES Ellie Harold 231-352-6213 Ernesto Peña 787-741-1922 Fuerte Conde Mirasol 787-741-1717 Gallery Galleon 787-741-3078 Lucky 1 Designs 720-366-1337 Lulu’s Ceramics 787-741-7828 ReciclArte 787-433-0015 Sandra Reyes 787-988-9319 Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery 787-741-1343 Vieques Historical 787-741-8850 & Conservation Trust BABYSITTING Shari Scott
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315-778-6762
CAR RENTAL Abreeze Car Rental 787-741-1856 Avis Ceiba 787-885-0505 / VQS 787-741-0284 Chepito’s 787-649-2542 Coqui Car Rental 787-741-3696 Fun Brothers (Scooters) 787-435-9372/741-0151 Island Car Rental 787-741-8822 Island Jeep Rental 787-741-3318 Maritza’s 787-741-0078 / airport 0700 Scooters for Rent 787-741-7722 Vieques Car Rental 787-741-1037
LANDSCAPING / POOL / PAINT Anchor Landscaping 787-479-5801, 479-4310 Montana Paintsmith 518-291-2223 Mow Joe 207-651-1213 Pool Cleaning 787-467-5318 Pool Spa Tech Services 787-506-4898 The Natural Tree Service 518-506-1374 LIQUOR STORE El Sombrero Viejo (Liquor)
787-741-2416
CATERERS Aguacate Catering 787-615-2320 Arenamar 787-239-7771 Beverly Davenport-Chef 215-313-1241 Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Coqui Fire 787-741-0401 Don Tito’s Lechon 787-741-2898 Green Man Baked Goods 787-435-6822 Chef Eva Bolívar 787-402-0357 Your Personal Chef (Waldo) 787-487-4244
LOCKSMITHS Marc Weems Locksmith
787-564-5120
CONSTRUCTION Architecto Stanley Hutchinson Cardinal Contractors Centro Commercial Florida Chu Garcia Design Build Group EDK Design Services Ferreteria Victoria M&M of Vieques Nales Hardware Navarro Construction Tony’s Painting Paul Lutton, Arquitecto Pico y Pala Vieques Locksmith
COMPUTER REPAIR / WEB Vieques Tech Services 858-337-3116 ELECTRICIANS EcoMan Dan 787-550-6700 Dynamic Air Conditioning 787-364-1800 High Quality Electrical Contractor 787-446-6063 EQUIPMENT RENTAL Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 Melaya’s Tours 787-222-7055 EXTERMINATORS Professional Exterminating
787-449-6950
FISHING CHARTERS Amity Charters Caribbean Fly Fishing Co. Fin Time Adventures
787-502-3839 787-450-3744 787-981-4109
FITNESS Sweat Fitness W
787-741-4100
GROCERY Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Morales 787-741-3365 Placita Reyes 787-598-4509 Yerbabuena y Mas 787-567-4158
BIO BAY / NIGHT TOURS Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Blue Waters 844-210-2922 Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 Melaya’s Tours 787-222-7055 Taino Aqua Adventures 787-349-6964
HORSEBACK RIDING Esperanza Riding Sea Gate Hotel
BIKE TOURS/RENTAL BlackBeard Sports JAK Water Sports
INTERNET Hermer Marcano
787-741-1892 787-644-7112
787-556-5537 939-639-0848 787-741-2571 787-741-4106 787-637-3414 787-435-3548 787-741-3061 787-741-2577 787-741-1307 787-741-2577 787-602-8359 787-477-7684 939-289-0808 787-564-5120
787-435-0073 787-741-4661
INSURANCE/MORTGAGE John Hancock/Orlando Vargas 787-754-7180 Jose A Diaz Agosto 787-763-0011 Preferred Mortgage Corp. 787-641-5500, 342-3175 787-435-2024
JET SKI RENTAL Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 Melaya’s Tours 787-222-7055
MASSAGE Away Spa (W) Blue Hill Hand & Foot Reflexology and Massage Blue Hoku (Maureen) Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman MUSEUMS Forte Conde Mirasol Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust
787-741-7021 787-908-2552 787-556-5025 787-435-1313 787-741-1717 787-741-8850
PADDLEBOARDING BlackBeard Sports JAK Water Sports SUP StandUp Paddle Vieques Paddleboarding
787-741-1892 787-644-7112 787-232-6906 787-366.5202
PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO E.P. Anderson Photography Jennifer Teeter River Photography Video Recording/Production
971.506.9406 787-469-3337 787-556-9030 413 237 9696
PHYSICIANS/MEDICAL SERVICES ASSMCA 787-741-4767 Behavioral Health Care 888-440-8787 Centro Quiropráctico 787-741-0414 Consejería Psicológica 787-547-9467 Dra- Daphne Torres (Dentista) 787-741-1916 Farmacia San Antonio 787-741-8397 Dr. Ivette Perez 787-741-7733 Dr- Jose Figueroa 787-741-2222 Dra- Fanny Garraton (dentist) 787-741-8765 Dr. Rivera 787-741-0738 Susana Centro Health Center 787-741-1166 Dr. Ivette Perez 787-741-7733 Dentist Juan R- Gonzalez 787-318-7376 Dr- Luis Rivera 787-741-0738 PUBLICOS/TAXIS Alba Melendez 787-206-0456 Alejito Bermúdez 939-261-7857 Ana Robles 787-514-9597 Angie Chauffeur 787-455-4596 Carlos & Denisse 787-447-8697 Edna Robles 787-630-4673 Hilda Robles 787-486-0267 Henry 787-649-3838 Jose Morales 787-435-4277 Josue 787-445-4599 Juanito 787-645-2329 Julio 787-579-1141 Letty Perez/Kiany Tours 787.556.6003 Luis Gonzalez 787-435-3805 Naté 787-364-5911 Sharron 787-944-4569 Vieques Taxi 787-741-TAXI 8294 Vieques Tours & Transportation 787-397-2048 PUERTO RICO PUBLICOS CR Transportation 787-614-8874 PUBLICATIONS / MARKETING Imprenta Adonai 787-741-2856 Vieques Insider Magazine 787.435.3172 Viequestravel.com 212-462-2900 RADIO Radio Vieques
787-741-1717
REAL ESTATE Bravos Boyz 787-741-1463 Guayacan Realty 787-565-0713/741-0414 Island Real Estate 787-741-7001 Rainbow Realty 787-741-4312 Sun Realty Vieques 787-467-5368 Vieques Realty & Rentals 787-209-8868
Toda La Casa 787-236-7224 Trade Winds Gift Shop 787-741-8666 VCHT Gift Shop 787-741-8850 Vieques Flowers and Gifts 787-741-4197 Vieques Bath & Botanica 917-573-4491 Vieques Cigars @Tropical Guest Hs 787-741-2449 Yerbabuena y Mas 787-567-4158
NON-PROFITS / ORGANIZATIONS
RESTAURANTS & BARS Aguacate 787-615-2320 Arenamar Café 787-239-7771 Aurora’s Chicken & Grill 787-741-3002 Awesome Yogurt & Fruits 787-517-1061 Belly Buttons 787-741-3336 Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Biekes Bistro 787-741-6381 Bilí 787-741-1382 Blue Moon Bar 787-741-3318 Café del Mar 787-248-2099 Carambola 787-741-3318 Conuco 787-741-2500 Coquí Fire 787-741-0401 Don Tito’s Lechon 787-741-2898 Duffy’s Esperanza 787-741-7600 El Sombrero Viejo 787-741-2416 El Quenepo 787-741-1215 Guavate Lechón 787-741-2264 Horta’s BBQ 787-614-2399 Izzy’s Bar & Grill 787-741-0720 José Enrique @ El Blok 787-741-6020 La Vista 787-741-8700 Lazy Jacks 787-741-1447 L’Mirador Terrace 787-741-3318 Mamasonga 787-741-0103 Mar Azul 787-741-3400 Next Course 787-741-1028 Noche 787-741-7700 Pescaderia/Fish Market 787-349-8660 Placita Reyes 787-598-4509 Rancho Choli 787-698-4464 Rincon del Sabor 939-358-1783 Roys Internet Café 787-741-0685 Smoothie Gals 787-435-1331 Sorcé W 787-741-7022 Subway 787-741-1049 Taverna 787-438-1100 Tin Box 787-741-7700 Trade Winds Restaurant 787-741-8666, 672-9927 Tsunami Grill 787-741-1049 W Café 787-741-7056
SNORKELING TOURS/EQUIPMENT Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Blue Waters 844-210-2922 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 LittleBoat Sailing 787.366.5202 Marauder Sailing 787-435-4858 Sea Vieques 787-435-0256 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978 Vieques Sailing w/Capt. Bill 787-508-SAIL(7245)
Caballos Bieke Inc. 787-984-5491
SPORTING CLUBS Vieques Gun Club & Sporting Clays 787-382-5242
Juntos 787-556-9030, www.juntosvieques.org
SAILING / CHARTERS AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 Ababor Sailing 787 435-2841 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 LittleBoat Sailing 787.366.5202 Marauder Sailing 787-435-4858 Sea Vieques 787-435-0256 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978 Vieques Sailing w/Capt. Bill 787-508-SAIL(7245) SCUBA BlackBeard Sports Isla Nena Scuba
787-741-1892 787-718-7607
SECURITY / INTERNET Hermer Marcano SERVICES Alcoholics Anon Humane Society Baby Item Rentals Gofers Recycling Vieques Gas SHOPPING Abe’s Gift Shop BlackBeard Sports Funky Beehive Isla Vida Luna Loca Malecon House Boutique MamaPlaya Himalaya Sol Creation
787-435-2024
787-741-0639 787-741-0209 787-467-5368 787-220-0943 787-741-5000 x2351 787-741-2551 787-741-2134 787-741-1892 787-741-3192 787-741-1397 843-271-1910 787-741-0663 787-548-1010 808-280-6223
SPA/SALON W Retreat and Spa
787-741-7021
TOURS Kiani Tours 787-741-8687 Vieques Island Tours &Transport. 787-397-2048 TOWING Freddie 787-608-991 TRANSPORT Island Delivery (Aurelio) Gofers
787-238-9108 787-220-0943
WEDDING PLANNERS Chezelle Dezines 787-919-0532 Innovation DMC 787-215-3287 / 925-2145 Secret Beach Event Creators 787-599-0539 Weddings in Vieques 787-741-8000 Wedding Officiant (bilingual) 787-741-0204 YOGA / MASSAGE / LIFECOACHING Blu Hoku 787-556-5025 Esperanza Yoga w/Valerie 508-945-7643 Freeheart Ranch 619-246-4595 Jennifer @ Hix 787-435-6850 VETRINARY SERVICES/PET CARE Dr. De Moya 787-608-7999 Pampered Pets 787-741-0639 Vieques Humane Society 787-741-0209 VIDEO RENTAL Chepitos Video
787-649-2542
MUNICIPAL / GOV. AGENCIES / PUBLIC SERVICE Banco Popular 787-741-7117 City Hall/Alcaldía 787-741-5000 Sun Bay 787-741-8198 US Fish and Wildlife Office 787-741-2138 Recycling Office 787.741.5000 Post Office 787-741-3891 PR Tourism Office Vieques Airport 787-741-2300 Isabel II 787-741-0800 AAA Autoridad de Acueductos 787-741-2001 To add or update your phone number please contact us at 787.435.3172 or kelly@viequesinsider.com
Boys & Girls Clubs of Puerto Rico 787-741-6006 787-402-2244 www.bgcpr.org
Caballos de Vieques Inc. caballosdevieques@yahoo.com Corefi 787-741-2076 787-433-0413 www.viequesinneed.org Incubadora, 787-206-0602, incubadora.bieke@cprdv.org,
Parque La Ceiba Community Project 787.467.4352 Navy League 732.983.1130, tomkirkbright@gmail.com Radio Vieques, 90.1 FM 787-206-0602, www.radiovieques.net Reach For Success 787-243-1352 cpweir@gmail.com, ReciclArte, 787-433-0015, pcuyar@reciclartepr.org Rotary Club of Vieques, 787-556-9030, RotaryVieques.com, Ticatove 787-741-2138 ticatovevieques@yahoo.com, Vieques Concert Society, 787-413-2450 www.viequesconcertsociety.org, Vieques Humane Society 703-623-2613 volunteer line 787-741-0209 www.viequeshumanesociety.org Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, 787-741-8850, www.vcht.org info@vcht.org,
EMERGENCY Ambulance 787-741-1616 Hospital 787-741-3282 Emergency 911 Fire Dept 787-741-2111 Police 787-741-2020 37
years
of art on Vieques ARTIST SIDDHIA HUTCHINS ON by Amy Gordon
q &a
Artist Siddhia Hutchinson first traveled to Vieques 38 years ago, and this year her gallery celebrates its 30th anniversary. A native of Boston, MA, she and her husband, architect Stanley Hutchinson, divide their time between homes in Vieques and El Yunque Rainforest on the main island of Puerto Rico. We sat down with Siddhia to talk about her work, her passion for Vieques, and what’s in store for the future.
As an artist, what is it about Vieques that inspires you? I like the light. I like the colors. I like the funkiness. I like the unusual. I like things that are not what you’d expect. I like the rawness of things. I like the lack of sophistication here, in a good way.
What do you do when you’re not working? Travel. We were in Cape Cod, Provincetown, New York City, and in two weeks I am going to Umbria, Italy. And I go to museums in San Juan and go shopping and just hang out. On Vieques, my husband and I choose a beach every morning to walk the dogs. We have three dogs right now and two cats. And we just rescued another kitten in the rainforest a couple of weeks ago.
You’re known on the island for your work helping animals. Why is that issue important to you? It’s tangible here. When you see a little puppy on the side of the road, you think, God made puppies beautiful, so you rescue it. And helping out gives back to me as part of the community. Coming home to a neat, tidy, sterile house and watching a movie? No thanks. There’s clutter and chaos, and there’s life.
Why do you do what you do? It’s pure love. In order for me to be here in Vieques I need to be productive and feel that I add value to the island or else I will implode on myself. My way of not being depressed is being engaged. It doesn’t have anything to do with money
or getting rich; it has to do with my well-being. And from there you create your social life, you create your community, your networks. People live longer when they are involved in community.
What advice would you give to someone traveling or moving here? Be adventurous. People who move here are often used to a life where they can get everything like that [she snaps her fingers]. You walk out the door and you get your prescription filled, get your hair cut, get a pedicure, a certain item to make that recipe. It’s not like that in Vieques, and that’s where people hit walls when they’re here.
What’s in store for your next 30 years? Taking care of my body, my health, my soul. I feel that when you get to a certain point in life you are that life. It’s like a tree that grows. Everything that I’ve done in the past has led up to me sitting here now. It’s a process. So for the last part of my life I hope it will just be more of what I have been doing.
Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery Isabel Segunda Mon - Sat 10am - 4pm Sunday 11am - 3pm
37
Taino Aqua Adventures Ad Magazine 2 vers.pdf
1
CLEAR BOTTOM KAYAKS
Bioluminescent Bay Snorkeling • Paddle Boards • Bikes
taino
C
M
Y
M
Y
aqua adventures
Y
10/6/15
8:38 AM
EDIBLE SOUVENIRS By: SCOTT APPELL
We all want to bring exotic treats of our Vieques vacation home with us – it’s natural. But according to the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (whose acronym, APHIS, is a clever reference to Aphis, the genus of a ubiquitous plant pest–the common aphid) all passenger baggage traveling from Puerto Rico to the U.S. mainland is subject to inspection. These inspections are conducted by officials of the USDA and APHIS prior to departure. Be prepared to open and close your baggage. If you have agricultural items with you, tell the inspector. Failure to do so can result in travel delays and fines of $1,000 or more.
V I E Q U E S , P. R .
MY
K
DRNA LICENSE & INSURED
THERE ARE SEVERAL PLANTS THAT ARE ILLEGAL TO BRING BACK INTO THE UNITED STATES:
Have a fun trip - book yours today
(787) 349-6964 www.tainoaquaadventures.com
Mangos: because of the mango borer, which may infect the U. S. mango crop.
Pigeon peas (gandules in Spanish): because of the pigeon pea borer which might affect America’s soybean and legume industry.
Citrus (of all types): because insect, bacterial, fungal and viral pathogens might be devastating to the Mainland’s citrus industry.
Additionally, sour sop, passionfruit and potted plants are forbidden.
Vieques Sporting Clays BUT HAPPILY, AVOCADO, PAPAYA, COCONUT AND PLANTAIN CAN BE TAKEN LEGALLY INTO THE U.S.
Try something new! One of the most beautiful target shooting sites in the world is
now open to the public!
We are pleased to welcome all levels of sporting clay enthusiasts, from beginner to professional. If you are interested in trying this sport (often likened to playing golf with a shotgun) but have never even held a gun, our staff will have you hitting targets in no time. Large groups or one person, we can design a custom program that will challenge and excite your senses. Club guns and ammunition supplied. “This is a must-do when visiting Vieques. Our whole group had so much fun.” To schedule : Call Richard Rivera Torres
787-382-5242 40
Daily sail Eat. and Relax snorkel Sail. Snorkel.
tours include open bar, a delicious meal, guided Daily sail and snorkel tours tour of the best reef in include open bar, fresh fruit Vieques and use of our and snacks, guided tour of the top-rate snorkel gear. best reef in Vieques and use of our top-rate snorkel gear.
Capt. Judi
787-435-0256 www.seavieques.com
The company with the newest and largest fleet. And great prices!
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Un comienzo feliz para tus vacaciones en Vieques.
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Perfect complement to Vieques. 1 BR Apt./Sleeps 4 $150/night or $250/2 nights Contact Kim Kfowski@gmail.com CasaEloise.com 41
The FRESHEST place on the rock! Smokehouse • Sushi • Artisan Draft Beer OPEN Tues-Sat • 5-10PM SUNDAY BRUNCH • 11-3PM HAPPY HOUR! 4-6PM $2 TACOS
Vieques Classic Charter viequesclassiccharter.com
Sail on a historical, 1941 Philip Rhodes design, wooden yacht through crystal turquoise water.
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Reservations party of 5 or more
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787.477.7684
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Kiani Tours
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Historical and cultural Kiani Tours services include: Cultural Educational and island tours Historical Sightseeing Island Tours.
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Airport-Hotel-Restaurant Transfers. Customized tours Special Events, Weddings. Shopping Tours. Group transportation Dining & Night Life Shuttle Services. speCial events Meet & Greet Services. shoppinG/dininG/niGhtlife Scouting for Film & Photo Shoots. BeaCh tours
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42
Vegetarian and V egan Options the choices are in . . .
BY: JOSÉ CA R R A SQU ILLO
Legumes, tuber roots, breadfruit, beans and grains were integral to the diet I grew up with. My grandmother’s garden always had okra, tomatoes, eggplant, green beans, peppers, corn, zucchini, a pumpkin patch and herbs. An avocado tree had a prominent spot in the back yard, while plantain, bananas, citrus, papaya and mango trees filled the rest of the small enclosure. So, 32 years ago, when I decided to shift to a mostly vegetarian diet, the switch was not a difficult one. Much more challenging back in 1983 was finding vegetarian options in menus anywhere. But with the advent of the health benefits found on a plant based diet, restaurants the world over now have healthy vegetarian choices on their menus. And in Vieques, our accommodating Chefs are willing to turn a regular menu offering into a vegetarian pièce de résistance. 43
Taverna • Zucchini pasta with homemade marinara sauce
At the Forefront: El Quenepo’s Chef Scott Cole has an exclusive vegetarian entrée on the menu and a number of appetizers, soups and salads that are vegetarian. The specials include his signature Mofongo made from breadfruit and pumpkin. It can be prepared vegetarian by request. Other offerings such as the Masalla and the Carnitas are available as vegetarian dishes. Recently, I had an exceptional vegetarian special there: Polenta Crushed Squash Blossoms – a Mexican inspired recipe with fresh chanterelle mushrooms, local organic arugula, and a ricotta made Cavatelli drizzled with a homeEl Quenepo • Polenta Crushed Squash Blossoms
44
Taverna • Brick oven style pizza.
Taverna • Zucchini pasta Athena
made tomato basil vinaigrette. I hope it becomes a permanent menu item in the future. Chef David Donovan has had a vegetarian section on the menu of TradeWinds Restaurant since I first set foot on Vieques. The section consisted mostly of pastas, but today TradeWinds boasts a tasty Quinoa vegetarian offering that is a must! Their Coconut Curry pasta with vegetables is also a great veggie choice. Chef Xandra at Carambola gets her inspiration to create vegetarian dishes from the vegetables that are available in the kitchen at that very moment. I recently had her plantain Mofongo topped with a stir fry of fresh vegetables all cooked to perfection. Because the vegetables change from day-to-day, her creation is always new and different. Always thinking of new ways to incorporate more ethnic food into her menu offerings, Xandra is excited about Carambola’s new around the world tapas upstairs. The tapas will include vegetarian Thai and Indian choices.
Also, Carambola’s pizza menu has several vegetarian options and for a healthy breakfast, their fruit and granola choices have no competition. That Unique Pasta Twist: In addition to the extraordinary brick-oven style pizza that Taverna is known for, Chef Joe has always had a few vegetarian tricks up his sleeve including pizzas without cheese for the strict vegan. For a pasta experience like no other try his signature Zucchini Noodles with homemade pesto. This macrobiotic/vegan pasta option is one of the best entrees I have ever tasted anywhere. Combine this entrée with a Greek salad and you have the makings of an unforgettable meal. Joe’s homemade marinara sauce used on the pasta (different from the tomato sauce used on the pizzas) is vegan and will satisfy even the most discriminating of Italian food connoisseurs. Taverna has excellent pasta options for vegetarians.
The fruit bowl and yogurt with granola at Carambola breakfast is an unbelievable way to start the day. Burrito no meato: Coqui Fire’s Kahuna Vegetarian Burrito easily commands a prominent place at the table of any vegetarian discussion. Chef Jimmy stuffs the Burrito with perfectly seasoned rice, beans and vegetables. The resulting Kahuna has the power to make a convert out of any carnivore. The Magicians: When alchemy and culinary artistry is called for, some of our chefs do not disappoint. Their magic touch is evident in every bite. Eva Bolivar’s Vegetarian Gnocchi at Bilí is simply a religious experience. Perfectly cooked, the dish is creamy and rich with subtle flavors. Eva’s dressing (star fruit is a key ingredient) turns any salad into the highlight of a meal. Chef Buddy at Next Course offers several vegetarian options that include a well thought out, inventive and delicious Herbed Goat Cheese Quinoa with a stuffed Portobello mushroom, grilled cauliflower and asparagus. But his Beet Salad with herbed goat cheese, and spiced walnuts is a masterpiece. Try it and be in on a great secret. Chef Rebecca at Conuco offers a classic Mofongo that comes vegetarian upon request. It is then served with either a garlic-butter or a Creole
Carambola • Chef Xandra prepares vegetable mofongo with vegetarian pastelillos.
sauce. This Mofongo tastes similar to those found deep in the mountains of Puerto Rico. Rebecca’s magic lies in combining simple ingredients and herbs such as garlic and cilantro for that robust criollo taste. Keep in mind that Conuco’s lunch menu has some great and tasty vegetarian options.
The Big Surprises: Breadless Pizza sounds like an oxymoron, but it is in fact one of the many exquisite culinary surprises found in Erica’s kitchen at Arenamar Café, the restaurant inside Sunbay. The crust is an exquisite mixture of cauliflower, almonds, eggs and spices. Upon
Next Course • Beet salad with herbed goat cheese, spiced walnuts and compressed watermelon
45
request, she can turn some of the menu items into local vegetarian dishes. Her lunch option Burrito is a must! Who would ever think there’d be great vegetarian options at a BBQ/rib joint? For those craving vegetarian Sushi, a visit to TinBox will provide a number of satisfying rolls. Also, all the organic greens in their fresh and tasty salad are from the garden in the back of the restaurant. And while at Mar Azul watching a spectacular sunset, take a look at their bar menu. You’ll find some great veggie bites. On taco nights their generous taco bar spread has enough vegetarian choices to keep anyone coming back for more. A veggie burger is now a regular item at restaurants like Bananas, Duffy’s and Belly Buttons. Often their specials have vegetarian dishes, and you’ll find their chefs are game to come up with vegetarian options on the fly. Buen Provecho has the best hummus on the island, and their sandwich bar has some good and healthy veggie options.
Being a vegetarian in Vieques hasn’t always been easy, but the health benefits of the diet outweigh the ongoing struggles of finding the right foods and/or nutritional balance. Luckily our island’s culinary expansion has brought endless choices even for those of us who are vegetarians.
TinBox • Sushi Chef Manny Garcia’s vegetarian sushi.
rule of thumb
While none of our restaurants have an exclusive menu for strict vegetarians, or those with food allergies or restrictions, the offerings on our island have increased considerably. Raw, macrobiotic, vegan and other delicious food choices are abundant and capable of satisfying the dietary needs of an ever-growing group of diners. My rule of thumb? Always ask! It’s the best way to discover the possibilities available as well as assure yourself the food is truly meat-free, from preparation to cooking to presentation.
HEADS UP
Highly allergic to poison ivy, poison sumac and poison oak? Then you should avoid eating our mangos and cashew fruit: they are members of the same plant family – the Anacardiaceae – and posses the same toxic phytochemicals only in lesser amounts. You may develop overt symptoms upon eating them: temporary and painless disfiguration of the face and lips. Not a good thing on vacation. Or ever.
By Scott D. Appell
Take me away Tembleque The vegan dessert The Oxford Companion to Food describes custard as “a mixture of milk and eggs thickened by gentle heating”. Although accurate for most custard, there are completely dairy-free desserts called “custard” produced by cooks from various cultures in Asia, the Mediterranean, Italy and Mexico. On Vieques, one such custard is called tembleque, a heated and stirred coconut custard. A mixture of coconut milk (not a true dairy milk), cornstarch and sugar with a pinch of salt, it is rigorously whisked on a stovetop until thickened. The Spanish name refers to its wiggly, jittery consistency when it is cooled and removed from the mold. Enhanced with a sprinkling of ground cinnamon it is delicious. Vegans – this is the dessert for you! Watch for it on local menus. ¡Buen provecho! 46
DELI MARKET CATERING WINE & SPIRITS BREAKfAST & LuNCh LooK foR ouR PoP uP DINNERS!
Vieques Island
Tours & TransporTaTion
Sightseeing and cultural tours through the eyes of a local.
787-397-2048 vqstours@gmail.com
Don’t settle for just seeing the island -
Everyday 8am-6pm
get to know it!
Isabel segunda
For provisioning requests please call
787.529.7316
Banana Wind Bravos House Cane Garden
Wedding� & Events SANDYMALONE
Stress-Free Wedding & Event Planning SandyMaloneWeddings.com • WeddingsinVieques.com 202-486-7575
Casa anGular Casa aTalaYa Casa limones Casa vaCa Paraiso QuinTa JaBali siddHia HuTCHinson GallerY
Vieques
WEDDINGS WEDDING DN
villa verde
ARQUITECTO STANLEY HUTCHINSON 787.556.5537
stanleyc.hutchinson@gmail.com 45 Years Licensed Architect
PR License: 14438
e D l S n o c abor n i R The print shop of Vieques La imprenta de Vieques
The best mofongo on the island! With the best food & best prices!
am - 5 pm hours tues - Fri / mar - Vie • 10:30 saturDaY / saBaDo • 11am -7pm
Daily Lunch Specials
Especial de Almuerzo Diario (while supplies last)
939-358-1783
$6.95
LOCAL HOT SPOT!
AUTHENTIC PUERTO RICAN FOOD • FAMILY RECIPES
LOOK FOR THE KIOSK TRUCK ON RT 200 [next to the gas station]
Publisher
aLL yoUr priNtiNg Needs: business cards bumper stickers flyers brochures postcards menus signs
of Fin
de Semana
Vieques Community News
787-741-2856 787-384-2272 rbonanov@gmail.com
Ubicada en la carretera 201 al frente de la Ferretería Nales. Located on Highway 201 in front of Ferretería Nales.
47
Holiday Sale! new arrivals for christmas and new Year’s Located inside Malecon House Esperanza on the Malecón next to Tradewinds
Malecón
House
Boutique
787-741- 0663 www.maleconhouse.com
“See the island the way it was meant to be seen... on a scenic trail ride with the Caribbean Cowgirls!”
787.435.0073
www.esperanzaridingcompany.com
Retail - Rental- Tours
Bio Bay Diving Snorkel Hiking Biking Kayak
With locations in Isabel II and W Hotel, and at the Former Roosevelt Roads Navy Base Open every day! Vieques: 787-741-1892 Ceiba: 787-741-6207 www.BlackBeardSports.com Do your research before getting to the beach. Information on the best spots and how to get there.
www.WheresTheBeachVieques.com
48
BY: SCOTT D. APPELL
T WHO DOESN’T LOVE
hey’re juicy and not too sweet, they have that lovely shade of orange with those snappy, peppery-tasting seeds that look like vegetal caviar, and they’re delicious on their own. Or maybe with a squeeze of fresh lime and perhaps a sprinkling of sea salt and pepper. Yum. But they’re more than a component of a fruit salad. Did you know they’re a medicine, a kitchen aid and a vegetable, as well? Unripe papaya is frequently boiled and served as a vegetable, or cubed and used as an ingredient of vegetable soups. The young leaves of the plant can be cooked and eaten like spinach as well. In Africa, even the stems are cooked and served as a vegetable. In topical folk medicine, the fresh latex that oozes from cuts made to the plant is smeared on the skin to alleviate boils and remove warts and freckles. It is also taken orally as a vermifuge to expel intestinal worms. But the most famous use of papaya is as a meat tenderizer. Because of its papain (an enzyme) content it is a major component of well-known commercial tenderizing products. In home use, a piece of green papaya can be rubbed on tough meat to improve its tenderness. Sometimes a chunk of unripe papaya is cooked with meat for the same purpose. And crushed leaves wrapped around tough meat will tenderize it overnight. Ingredient, remedy, tenderizer, or just a slurpy, delicious, pleasant snack? Your call, because all choices lead to yummm!
PAPAYA?
BY: SCOTT D. APPELL
RECAOAN HERB FOR CILANTRO LOVERS Recao (Broadleaf Coriander) is by far the most ubiquitous culinary herb in Puerto Rico. Appreciated for its pungent, cilantro-like taste, recao (pronounced reh-cow) is found freshly cut in Morales’ produce section or the local produce stand, and growing in yards. The herb bears ground-hugging rosettes of dark-green, tongue-shaped foliage that are armed with small sharp spines along the leaf margins. The spines make it difficult to eat large leaves raw. Not surprisingly, this herb has a multitude of medicinal uses. The Caribe Indians used this plant as a cure-all. On Vieques, leaf teas of broadleaf coriander are drunk to lower both high blood pressure and high blood sugar. Brewed with rue and fennel this tea regulates the menses and alleviates menstrual pain. Elsewhere through the West Indies recao-based strong leaf teas are considered antispasmodic, anticonvulsant and antihysterical - hence another English common name, “fit weed”. These particular qualities have been clinically proven. Nutritionally, recao is reportedly high in calcium, phosphorous, iron and vitamins A, B and C, making it healthful and tasty. Look for it in your yard. Rub a leaf between your fingers and if it smells like strong cilantro you have found it. Chop it up for salads or mix with garlic, olive oil and lime juice for topping fish, pork or steak!
Paddle, Snorkeling and Ocean Adventures
New!
“Treat yourself to the best....”
Advanced expeditions!
787-366 5202
viequespaddleboarding.com 49
The
Open Reefs of Vieques
With its incredible diversity of healthy corals and a nearly unlimited assortment of sea life Vieques has become a snorkel destination for the underwater adventurer. Some of the most spectacular snorkeling opportunities lie just offshore above the open water reefs found on both the south and north shores. These amazing reefs are ONLY accessible by boat. The Charter Captains of Vieques are familiar with the reef systems, knowing how to safely approach, anchor and snorkel without putting you or the reef in danger.
Join us!
Ballet Classes for visitors and residents. Maria SiMMonS School Mon, Wed, & Fri luneS, MiercoleS, VierneS 6pM-7pM & 7pM-8pM
the brittany dance, film & theatre foundation
The Brittany Ballet Holiday Gala at Gallery Galleon! friday december 11, 2015 • 7-10pm Ballet performance by Leonel Linares Studio of NYC and a recital by Vieques students. $50 donation includes drinks and performance! Kids 12 and under are free!
For more information on classes or to purchase tickets please call: 917-703-8944 or visit: www.thebrittanydftfoundation.org tickets also available at the door!
Come support our kids!
50
SOUTH SHORE BLUE TANG REEF sits a half mile off Ba-
hia de La Chiva and Cayo La Chiva, the small island across from La Chiva (Blue Beach). The reef runs parallel to the shoreline and can be snorkled in about 2 hours using the current. Endangered Elkhorn and Staghorn Corals are abundant, two slow-growing corals not often seen in these environs. Brain Corals, Sea Fans and Star Corals also proliferate on the reef. Hiding in the crevices you’ll find Puffer Fish, Barracuda, Morey Eels and Caribbean Lobster. Highlighting Blue Tang with color are schools of Blue Tangs, Parrot Fish and Royal Gramma.
LEMON REEF, located on the outer edge of Ensenada Honda, is the most protected open water reef on Vieques, a vast area you can snorkel for days and still not cover its entirety. Lemon Reef is known for its amazing changes of landscape. Carlos, owner of JAK Water Sports compares it to being in a house
ON T HE WATER W/ CAPTAIN TOM KIRKBRIGHT
Water
Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Blue Waters 844-210-2922 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 Isla Nena Scuba 787-718-7607 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 LittleBoat Sailing 787.366.5202
Sea Vieques 787-435-0256 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978 Vieques Sailing Co. 787-508-SAIL(7245)
moving from room to room as an abundance of sea life cruises the underwater corridors. Nurse Sharks, Sea Turtles, Spotted Eagle Rays and Southern Brown Rays pass by a panorama of Brain, Stag and Elk Horn Corals. Fields of Finger Corals fill the bowl-shaped center of the reef with darting schools of brightly colored fish providing contrast to the soft hues of the coral.
by deep water this reef offers its variety of creatures the chance to cruise in search of a quick meal. Mutton and Red Snappers, Nurse Sharks, Spotted Eagle Rays and Reef Squid all stalk its seascape while schools of Parrot Fish, Trumpet Fish and Blue Tangs add a dazzling display of color. Dancing Sea Fans and Star, Stag, Elkhorn and Brain corals provide homes for a myriad of inhabitants.
NORTH SHORE
MOSQUITO REEF is located
CAYO BLANCO is the most
frequented open water reef on Vieques. A short ride from the Port of Isabel II it is easily accessible and magnificent to snorkel, its locale teaming with sea life. Surrounded
just off-shore, east of Rompeolas (Mosquito Pier), and is truly a hidden treasure. The least visited of the open water reefs it is the most viewed, visible with amazing detail to travelers departing Vieques in planes. Mosquito is actually two
PHOTO BY: LITTLE BOAT SAILING
Marauder Sailing 787-435-4858
reefs about 300 yards apart, with both sections having a surprising amount of Staghorn and Elkhorn Corals along with Brain Corals and Sea Fans. The usual array of small colorful Parrot Fish, Blue Tangs and Royal Gramma thrive on this less appreciated underworld, making it chock full of sea life and well worth the trip. The Captains of Vieques try to accommodate all requests. Please understand that all Charter Captains must consider sea and wind conditions, length of charter and other variables. Book a charter and enjoy an adventure that will bring you back to Vieques to spend more time On The Water.
51
Lechón
BY: PAUL PITURA
LECHONERAS GUAVATE, CHOLI, AND DON TITO’S
EL GUAVATE (787-741-2264) Wed. - Sun. 10 am til close on rt. 200 RANCHO CHOLI (787-698-4464) everyday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Esperanza Calle Almendro DON TITO’S (787-741-2898) Saturdays and Holidays only. Order by Wed. for Sat. pickup. Calle Tito Maldonado Isabel II
N Choli’s lechonera in Esperanza.
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o sooner had the huge roast pig come out of the oven that morning when the first customer appeared. “I smelled it cooking last night,” the neighbor says, cash in-hand. She wants to be first to get the choicest and juiciest pieces of lechon. She leaves satisfied, carrying away pounds of the tender meat wrapped in salty, crispy skin. It’s the start of a steady stream of patrons – forty-five minutes later the entire pig is gone. Throughout the week numerous locals and visitors alike will follow their noses or someone’s directions to places where this Puerto Rican culinary tradition lives on. Lechon is the name for roast pig that has been cooked long and slow, in many cases overnight. The lechon recipe is a simple one: pigs are covered in a marinade of salt, pepper, oregano and “sazón” - a local seasoning made from paprika, coriander, cumin, oregano, and garlic. It’s then roasted on a spit in a giant concrete propane oven then finished over charcoal to give the meat that old-fashioned flavour. Because of the slow cook the juices stay intact, helping to keep the meat moist and tender, while outside exposure to the coals makes the skin brown and crackly, as unique a treat as the meat itself. The pork is then served with a variety of sides; rice and pigeon peas, pasteles (meat and ground vegetables wrapped in a banana-leaf), yuca, and yams. Chef Choli (Mariano Rivera Corcino) is behind the seductive smell at Rancho Choli, his restaurant a block north of The Malecón in Esperanza. He has a lot of experience - he’s been making lechon for thirty years. Several times a week Choli roasts a pig, sending heavenly scents through the neighbourhood, a savory sign the dish will be served that morning at his lechonera. Over at El Guavate, across from the W Retreat & Spa, Chef Rico Esperanza is keeping his family tradition alive. His grandfather raised his own pigs, roasted them and sold the meat to hungry beachgoers at Sun Bay. “The meat would all be sold in four hours,” he says. “Traditions everywhere are getting lost,” he laments. “When you think lechon, it transports you back to that place.” Fortunately for visitors
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Don Tito’s
to Vieques, this delicious tradition is very much alive. Chef Rico’s personal twist? Top off your lechon with his homemade hot sauce. “It’s mama’s secret,” he says, with a wink. At Don Tito’s Lechonera, Papo Maldonado roasts up to thirteen pigs every Friday night to fill orders called in on Wednesday from the community. The family business goes back 35 years to when his father, Don Tito, raised his own pigs and cooking was done over bayaonda wood. Despite a full time job, Papo carries on the tradition each Friday, his tin-covered cinderblock ovens hissing and sizzling thru the night to produce mouth-watering lechon for customers on Saturday morning. Cultural note: Lechon is to Christmas in Vieques what turkey is to Thanksgiving in the States. That’s why on Christmas Eve Don Tito’s Lechonera will roast over 30 pigs to meet the needs of Christmas Day dinner. Also, this holiday season will be the first in Vieques where you can sit Don Tito’s and enjoy a traditional lechon meal at a restaurant. Rancho Choli and El Guavate are preparing tables, getting liquor licenses and planning live entertainment. Regardless of when you are here treat yourself to a culinary and cultural treat. Lechon is more than just roast pig and great food; it means family, tradition and history. But don’t wait. When the lechon is gone, it’s gone!
on rt. 200
Experience the Sabor and Sound of Puerto Rico Barrio Martineau - Calle 200 (West of the W ) Barrio Martineau - Calle 200 (West of the W) 787-741-2264
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WOOD
YO U B E L I EV E ?
BY: TOM O’GRADY, JR.
El Blok’s Chef de Cuisine, Katie Savage, stokes the fire of the wood burning grill.
S
ometimes eco-consciousness and great cooking come together, as is the case at El Blok where Puerto Rico - renowned executive Chef Jose Enrique offers dishes featuring ingredients close to his heart and his home. Main dish standard choices like seafood, pork, chicken and beef step to a new level when paired with native Caribbean fruits and vegetables such as mango and yuca. But the big happy dance on the tongue comes after those items have spent a little time dancing themselves, in the flames of a wood burning grill. And we’re not talking any old wood. Bayahonda, the Spanish name for a type of mesquite, is an invasive species that grows on Vieques. Allowed to grow unchecked the tough hardwood spreads like a thorny bush, taking over watering holes and grasslands while it gulps water from the ground. But in the hands of knowledgeable people like Jose Enrique and his Chefs de Cuisine, Katie Savage and Carlos Perez, the wood becomes useful in many ways. In a stove mesquite burns slow and steady providing an excellent cooking heat. Savage says she can be ready to cook in twenty minutes after lighting the wood, building and stacking the small fire pile like an outdoor camper. The wood glows like coal and infuses food with a unique flavor that says freshly grilled. Carlos adds that the fire can also be coaxed to flare which allows for charring and searing. Steak, lobster, fish and eggplant all benefit from the intense heat and smoke. Sometimes Katie will set items on the grill away from the fire and cover them, allowing the smoke to slowly permeate the food like a traditional barbeque slow-cooker.
When the fire burns out the next day the ashes are turned into a paste that’s excellent for cleaning the stainless steel equipment in the kitchen. As if that’s not enough, the Chefs also bake with flour made from ground mesquite seed pods, producing a cake that’s nutty, flavorful and amazingly moist. Multi-usage aside, the team keeps a healthy supply of foot and a half long pieces of the wood next to the kitchen for its primary purpose. On a busy restaurant day they can use as much as a quarter cord. Talk about fired up cooking! Baking, cooking, cleaning and utilizing an invasive species; not a bad day’s work. Enrique and team do the grillin’, you do the chillin’. Not a bad night out.
Bayahonda, an invasive species is used for the wood burning grill at Chef José Enriques restaurant in El Blok.
Ashes from the grill are made into an eco-friendly scouring scrub to clean the grill and the stainless steel equipment.
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Root vegetables are grated to make a mash. This can be any combination of yautia, green banana, plantain, potato or yuca.
The making of Pastelles; an all day affair Pastelles are sometimes described as Puerto Rican tamales, the difference being they are made with root vegetables instead of corn. Making them is labor intensive work which is why they are traditionally done during the holiday season. Fortunately, many people here on Vieques make pastelles to sell. It is not a dish to pass up!
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For the stuffing, pork, chicken, beef or seafood is slow cooked with chick peas, spices, and tomato sauce.
A key flavor is introduced by adding Achiote oil, made by sautĂŠing annatto seeds in oil. The Achiote oil also adds color and moistens the root-vegetable mash.
Banana leaves are picked, cleaned, and cut into squares to serve as the wrapper for the pastelle.
Not only do the banana leaves serve as a wrap for the goodness inside, they impart an earthy grassy flavor to the pastelles.
The pastelles are created by placing a scoop of the mashed roots and a scoop of the meat stuffing onto layers of banana leaf.
The pastelle is then folded with wax paper and tied tight with a string. Usually two pastelles are tied together to make one serving.
They are then boiled for one hour or frozen for a later date.
Enjoy pastelles on their own or with homemade hot sauce called Pique. (Pee-Kay) Buen Provecho!
TRADITIONS tis’ the Season...
by José Carrasquillo
COQUITO
Food .................................. Pasteles (Puertorican tamal) served with arroz con gandules - yellow rice with pigeon peas. Lechón - roasted pig cooked in a back yard fire pit and seasoned to perfection Tembleque – a coconut custard dessert. A staple of the season is Turrón, a confection made of honey, sugar, egg whites and toasted almonds. Music .................................. Our very own cultural tradition is the Parranda. A Parranda is an unannounced serenade that aims to wake up the recipients (and their immediate neighbors). The recipient of a Parranda is expected to open his/her house, offer holiday food and drink to the parranderos and join the Parranda on the next stop. Many Parrandas last into the next morning. The last Parranda of the night ends with an asopao (a chicken stew) expected to be prepared by the last host on the Parranda list. Musical instruments and Musical celebrations .................................. String instruments such as the guitar and the cuatro take center stage. The cuatro is the national instrument of Puerto Rico. It belongs to the lute family of string instruments. A cuatro player is called a cuatrista. Noche Buena .................................. Christmas eve is a night when families get together to eat traditional food,
Our traditional homemade version of eggnog combines coconut, spices and of course, rum! No holiday festivity would be complete without this delicious, creamy concoction. celebrate, tell stories, sing, dance and wait for Christmas. Devout Catholics still attend midnight mass. New Year’s Eve .................................. Despedida de año - New Year’s Eve is usually celebrated in the town plaza with music and dance from early evening until midnight and beyond. At midnight, Puerto Ricans say good bye to the old year by throwing a bucket of water outside their door. The New Year is welcomed with a display of fireworks. Three Kings’ Day .................................. For millions of children in Latin America and Spain “El Día de los Reyes Magos” (Three Kings’ Day) is the most anticipated day of the holiday season. The night before Three Kings’ Day, children put grass in a shoebox for the horses transporting the Three Kings and gifts are left in its place. The North American counterpart traditions is to leave milk and cookies for Santa. While Christmas in the States pretty much ends after New Year’s Day the holiday season doesn’t officially end in Latin America and the Iberian Peninsula till the 12th day of Christmas, also known as the Feast of the Epiphany or Three Kings’ Day. The holiday falls on January 6th and marks the adoration of baby Jesus by the Three Kings. In Vieques, Three Kings’ Day is an integral part of our annual holiday tradition.
INGREDIENTS 2 cups of coconut milk (1 dry and big coconut or 2 medium ones grated and 1 1/2 cup of hot water 1 1/2 cup of white rum 1 cup of condensed milk 2 cans of evaporated milk 1/2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract PREPARATION Grate the coconut, add 1 1/2 cup of hot water, and squeeze to obtain 1 cup of milk. Pour the milk in the electric blender, add sugar and ground cinnamon. Beat on high speed for 1 minute. Add the rum and beat for 2 more minutes on high speed. Pour in a bottle and keep in the refrigerator. In doing so, coconut cream remains homogenous and not solidified in the fridge. You do not need to take it out of the refrigerator in advance at the serving time. You just need to shake the bottle. If you prefer it with more rum, add 2 cups instead of 1 1/2. If you use coconut milk from a can, use less sugar.
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a premier Vieques based event planning, design, & production firm specializing in the creation of unforgettable custom weddings and celebrations.
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Open everyday 4pm-10pm byOb
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787-614-2399
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I S L A N D S PAC E S
Volklandia There’s a lot going on behind the quiet eyes of Jorren Cook, as he and his dad search the landscape of the dump. On a tiny
Jorren sketched his vision for his VW apartment dwelling before he and his dad began building.
island far from mainstream culture the dump is a museum, a studio, an art supply store, providing young Jorren with inspiration and materials while honing his artist’s eye. What he sees becomes something he imagines, an old thing re-formed as a new thing, like the hood of a Ford truck, now the roof over a fire pit. But when his dad’s friend gave him a broken down 1973 Volkswagen Bus those quiet eyes lit up, the possibilities endless for a nine year old boy with a passion for all things VW. Jorren’s passion and creative thinking joined forces. The result, a modest two story dwelling. Sort of. Some people would call it a VW Bus with a corrugated steel box on the roof. But they don’t see what Jorren sees. Welcome to Volklandia, as he calls it, and we tour the high aerie of his bedroom. It’s set in the trees and accessible only by ramp.
BY TOM O’GRADY, JR.
“The first time I slept here,” he says quietly, “it felt like a dream.” A dream indeed, brought to life by the skilled hands of his dad, Scott, a builder by trade. And the dream continues as we tour the first floor, a tiki lounge complete with deck and chairs. Of course it’s a VW bus, its broadside door open and welcoming for guests of lesser imagination. What else could it be? For now, this ancient spirit of the Road sits safely on the family compound, its passionate young owner content to imagine where it’s been and where it might go. “I want to drive one when I’m old enough,” he says in his downplaying way, his long hair shadowing the eyes that transform what is to what can be. He can already see the journey in his mind. And another dream begins.
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buy local
KA LA HA N DM A DE WITH LOVE C U STO M J E W E LRY BY SAR AH CA RB I A : F U N KY BEEHIVE , SOL C RE AT I O N W, VIEQUES HISTOR ICA L A N D CONSERVATION TRUST, W W W.K ALAHAND MAD EWITHLOVE .COM,
gift guide
These are just a few items locally made or designed by Vieques artisans or shopkeepers. We couldn’t possibly show them all. Walk along the Malecón, peruse the kiosks, explore the stores, galleries and museums and you will discover Vieques talent everywhere you look!
HAND PR INTED CUSTOM VIEQUES TEES BY JAD E R OBERTSON @ FUNKY BEEHIVE , EL BLOK , AND SOL CR EATIONS
Ha nd ma de
You can’t leave Vieques without a bottle of Jimmy’s Coqui Fire hot sauce. Celebrating it’s 14th year, Coqui fire offers a twist on your usual condiment offering flavors like Pina Colada Mustard, Papaya Lime, and for the really brave, the Ultimate Dragon Hot Sauce with a sweat factor of 15.
PAINTER JACK IE CRUZ K IOSK ON THE MALECÓN
B U Y C O Q U Í F I RE O N LI NE AT W W W.C O Q U I F I RE .COM O R LO O K FO R I T I N STO RE S A LL OV E R V I EQUES
Proceeds from Juntos tee shirts go to Juntos Humane Education program on Vieques. Find out how this program is changing the lives of children and animals on Vieques. www.juntosvieques.org
E A RI N G S BY A DA @ CRYSTAL DO LP H IN E S P E RANZA
SAND R A MUD G E SAILBOATS @ FUNKY BEEHIVE
Taino artisan Daniel Silva is not just creating art he is reviving Taino history. His carved gourds are all done freehand, the designs inspired by Taino art. Daniel is a true craftsman, artist and keeper of the Taino legacy. Look for him on the Malecón.
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HA MMER ED BR ONZE AND ST E R LING SILVER JEWELRY BY VIR G INIA KOZUR @ FUNKY BEEHIVE
DAPHNE DEJERSEY GEMMILL’S BOOK BIRDS OF VIEQUES ISLAND, PUERTO RICO, covering 174 documented bird species, is available at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust and at Ticatove store. Purchase it through the online shop at www.audubonnaturalist.org.
VIEQUES SOAP BY OG LA SILVA FUNKY BEEHIVE
DONATE A BOOK TO A SCHOOL Donna Cisneros self publishes books about the ecology of Vieques using her underwater photographs of the surronding coast and reefs. A reading program was initiated in Vieques schools using these books to teach the importance of protecting the environment. You can support this program by donating a book to a school. Email donnaccbeach@cs.com to find out how.
N ECK LACE BY JANE S ABIN @ FUNKY BEEHIVE
A RT I ST LU L U AT K I N @ GALL ERY GA L L EO N 787 74 1 782 8 BY A P PT.
shop eat i explore i
LU C KY 1 D E S I G N S O N T H E MA LEC Ó N A N D CUSTOM F U R N I T U R E @ R A I N B OW RE A LT Y LO CAT I O N
M YRNA PAGAN’S G ICLEE PR INT @ V I EQUES CONSERVATION AND HISTOR ICAL TRUST
Save money with the Trust's value card with discounts at many local businesses. The card is $50 with discounts valued at over $500. For sale at the Vieques Historical and Conservation Trust and Funky Beehive after Dec. 15th. Get yours today!
H AN DM A DE VQS T I E DYE S AT I S LA V I DA IN ISABEL II
L E AT H E R A RT I S A N I VA N PA RÉ S H A S A B O OT H 11A M -3P M N E XT TO PA N A DE R I A V I EQ U E N S E I N I S A BE L I I O R BY A P P OI N T M E N T 787- 3 08 -9 005
A RT I ST SA N DRA REYES @ GA L L E RY GA L L EO N O R BY A P PT. 787- 98 8 - 93 19 ARTISTS JUAN SILVA AND MICHELLE LANOO, D’ BIEK É D ESIG NS ON THE MALECON
COMING SOON!
M A RB LE C OA ST ER S @ V I EQ U E S GI F TS
Vieques Insider Online Store! www.viequesinsider.com
MEET MISS FUZZI David Lloyd’s book, Miss Fuzzi, is based on a true story of a little dog discarded by his owner and found by our beloved Vieques resident Penny Miller. Penny is a co-founder of the Vieques Humane Society and now runs SeaGate Guesthouse where Miss Fuzzi happens to be the official guest greeter. Proceeds of book sales go to the Vieques Humane Society. To get your copy visit www.missfuzzi.com or look for it in stores around the island. 61
weddings | events | videography Wynne Carson Licensed Mortgage Loan Originator NMLS #1269939
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insider v ieques
j u ly- O c t • 2 0 1 5
vol. 2 issue 1 • 787.435.3172 www.viequesinsider.com
connecting visitors to vieques
YOUR GUIDE TO
971.506.9406 | www.epanderson.com
SEA, SAND & SUN
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BiO BAY F U N FA C T S
VIEQUES INSIDER BEACH GUIDE $10
Pick up a copy of the Vieques Insider Special Issue Beach Guide for essential information on beaches, snorkeling spots, flora & fauna, and tips for getting around.
Ask for it in stores, guesthouses, rental car companies and restaurants or call 787-435-3172
Meet Miss Fuzzi breads breakfast pastries quiches a desserts for all occasions
The Green Baked Man Goods
“..awesome food and service” as seen on TripAdvisor.
i n t e r n a t i o n a l
Have your morning breakfast waiting for you at your rental house when you arrive! viequesgreenman@aol.com
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call to order
(787)435-6822 Scott D. Appell
David Lloyd’s book is a true story about a little dog on Vieques who finds a loving home. Order your copy at www.missfuzzi.com or look for the book in stores around the island. Proceeds from the book sales go to the Vieques Humane Society and Animal Rescue. Miss Fuzzi was rescued by Penny Miller, co-founder of the VHSAR and lives at SeaGate Guesthouse.
You won’t believe... the next issue.
IF YOU LIKE ROMANCE, FUN, ADVENTURE INTRIGUE, MYSTERY, OR JUST REALLY GREAT INFORMATION... MAKE SURE YOU VISIT US ONLINE. OR HAVE THE MAGAZINE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR! SUBCRIBE ONLINE AT
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BE SURE TO CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE AND ONLINE STORE COMING SOON!
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FINCA CONSCIENCIA J OR G E CO R A & A N A EL ISA PER E Z
Raising Vegetables, Bees and Awareness
Visit Finca Conciencia or come to the Farm Workday and Potluck every Monday at 6:30 am. For more information about the farm or to support the bee project, visit the facebook page at fincaconciencia or call Ana at 787-502-4088.
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Jorge Cora works the earth everyday at his farm, La Finca Conciencia (Farm Conciousness), nurturing his belief that anything is possible with sustainable agriculture and applying the idea that positive change comes with awareness. Better known to some on the island as “the Bee Whisperer” for his work with Africanized bees, Jorge began the farm 8 years ago with no machinery or pesticides. Knowing that 85% of the produce in Puerto Rico is imported, even higher on Vieques, Cora thought it was necessary to produce local, healthy food, and pass on this skill to the children here. With the help of Ana Elisa Perez, who has organized farmer to farmer training(s) in Puerto Rico, México, Haiti and Guatemala, the operation is now a kind of farm school, offering workshops and educational activities weekly. The farm operates alongside Cora’s Proyecto Las Abejas (Bee Project), the efforts Jorge has made to raise, study and protect Africanized bees, while teaching others apiary skills. Through recent tours and open house presentations he and Ana have cultivated interest in the importance of local growing and bee keeping. Local Viequense students have organized a seed bank for local seeds while wood-shop students are working on new bee boxes. Next in line is a Soil Shop to develop an understanding of human impact on the land. Cora’s hope is to one day see many people on the island growing their own food and collecting their own honey. And passing the knowledge on to their children.
OUT N’ ABOUT
Vieques Humane Society and Animal Rescue The Mayor of Vieques, Victor Emeric, congratulates Vieques Humane Society Board Members on the shelter’s new van, funded through a grant from the ASPCA. The vehicle transports island animals to flights that carry them to forever homes. VHS and the municipality are investigating ways to collaborate to ensure humane animal treatment on the island. Follow VIEQUES HUMANE SOCIETY on FaceBook. Take a beach dog walk on Fridays 10-1 (Contact Volunteer Coordinator, Cyndi Casey Thomas: 703.623.2613).
VHSAR
PATRONALES Gypsy Cordova Garcia Participating in the Patronales parade as a Taino Chief or “Cacike”.
RADIO VIEQUES
Patronales Vieques If you have never been here during the July Patronales celebration, you don’t know what you are missing.
Better Together In September Radio Vieques celebrated its second anniversary and it has never sounded better! Participation by greater numbers of the Vieques community has brought new energy to the airwaves. A student-produced mental health series (Salude a Flote), student interviews and student-recorded promos are engaging the youth of the island while programs like Better Together (Unidos Mejor), the first locally produced English language program, brings fresh voices and perspectives to the island’s conversations about its history, culture and education. Check www.radiovieques.net for station info, support and programming schedules. You can also come by the Fort and visit the studio or contact the station by email: info@radiovieques.net.
Trash, Recycling, Compost At the Arepa Festival this past summer history was made on Vieques by offering three bins to discard trash, recyclables and compost! Ana Arache Martinez is working to inform and educate the community about the importance of composting. From the Syracuse University Center for Sustainable Community Solutions and part of the Obama Sustainable Task Force, Ana is now working with schools to implement recycling and composting programs. For more information please contact Ana V. Arache (787) 403-9773 avarache@syr.edu
COMPOST! ONLY IN VIEQUES
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Wish you were here. VIEQUES, PUERTO RICO
www.viequesinsider.com Cape Air and Vieques Insider will get you here!
Take a fun photo or video of yourself or your friends at your favorite spot on the island with the message above somewhere in the photo. Post on instagram with hashtag #gotoviequespuertorico to enter the contest. A drawing of submissions on Jan 15th, 2016 will reveal the winner. Two round trip tickets from San Juan to Vieques on Cape Air!
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Be there in minutes! Cape Air provides convenient flights between San Juan and Vieques. capeair.com 800-cape-air
NOT ON VIEQUES BUT WANT TO BE? YOU CAN PLAY TOO! Print this page and take a fun photo of yourself or friends with it somewhere in the photo. Post to instagram with hashtag #gotoviequespuertorico to enter the contest. A drawing of submissions on Jan 15th will reveal the winner. Two round trip tickets from San Juan to Vieques on Cape Air!
Wish I wAS THERE. VIEQUES, PUERTO RICO
www.viequesinsider.com 67
insider tip
WHERE TO DRINK & DINE ARENAMAR CAFE 787-239-7771 Great food, vegetarian options, Frappes & Frozen drinks. Beach delivery. Located at SunBay. .................................. AURORA’S CHICKEN & GRILL (FORMERLY CHICKEN KING-JUST MOVED NEXT DOOR!) 787-741-3002 Roasted, BBQ, fried, and rotisserie chicken, hand dipped icecream, authentic local food and more! On 201 across from Nales Hardware store. Open everyday 10:30 am- 8:30pm .................................. BANANAS BEACH BAR AND GRILL 787-741-8700 Open air, ocean view with an eclectic menu and social atmosphere. Open 7 days a week Lunch & Dinner 11:00am to 10:00pm, Daily happy hour. .................................. BELLY BUTTONS 787-741-3336 Open everyday breakfast & lunch 9am-3pm; Dinner Wed-Sun Weekly specials! Call for schedule. Beach Restaurant with the island’s best ribs and sandwiches! Ocean views on the quiet side of the Malecón. Island vibe. .................................. BILÍ 787-741-1382 Thurs-Tues 11am-10pm Where the locals dine. Creative Puerto Rican Cuisine. Fresh Seafood, Daily specials. Open air dining across from the Malecón. Catering available. .................................. BLUE MOON BAR & GRILL at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Circular artistic hand painted bar. A great place to meet! Breakfast, lunch, or dinner! Open 365 days. .................................. BUEN PROVECHO 787-529-7316 Open Tues.-Sat 8am - 6pm Starting Dec. 21st open every day. Deli, Market, Café, Wine & Spirits. Breakfast, lunch and occasional pop-up dinners. Next to Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery in Isabel II. .................................. 68
CAFE DEL MAR 787-248-2099 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, fresh bread and pastries, gormet coffee, espresso, tapas, cocktails, chef’s specials. Open everyday 8amclose. .................................. CARAMBOLA AT THE BLUE HORIZON BOUTIQUE RESORT 787-741-3318 Breakfast 7:00am 12:00pm Lunch 12 -pm - 3 -pm Dinner 3:00pm 10pm Great local and international dishes served in Caribbean fashion. Open 365 days. Beautiful, unique setting overlooking the ocean. .................................. CONUCO 787-741-2500 Tues - Sat 5:30 - 9:30pm Cocina Puertorriqueña. Authentic Puerto Rican food in a warm elegant atmosphere. Located in Isabel II across from Banco Popular. ........................ COQUI FIRE CAFÉ 787-741-0401 Mon - Fri 5-9pm Gourmet Mexican food, reservations recommended. Isabel II .................................. DUFFY’S ESPERANZA 787-741-7600 Everyday 11-close Diverse menu and daily specials. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, local fish specials and chef’s specials. On the Malecón Esperanza .................................. EL SOMBRERO VIEJO BAR & LIQUOR STORE 787-741-2416 Everyday 12noon-after midnight. Local bar, hang out and wine cellar. .................................. EL QUENEPO 787-741-1215 Fine Dining on the Malecón. Chef’s specials nightly. Eclectic cuisine featured in Travel & Leisure and New York Times. Mon-Sat 5:30-close ..................................
To avoid having to wait at a restaurant or worse yet, not getting a table, please make reservations. GUAVATE LECHÓNERA 787-741-2264 Traditional Puerto Rican style smoked pork. Located on rt. 200 west of W Resort. .................................. HORTA’S BBQ • 787614-2399 Puerto Rican Home Cookin’ BBQ and authentic food. BYOB. Open every day 4-10pm On rt. 200 .................................. JOSÉ ENRIQUE AT EL BLOK 787-741-6020 Sun-Wed Bar: 5pm12am, Restaurant 6-10pm, Thurs-Sat Bar:5:00pm-1 am Restaurant, 6-10:30 Caribbean flavors with locally sourced products. Mesquite fired grilled-whole fish, beef & pork porterhouse. Offering whole roasted chickens and a large selection of smaller dishes. .................................. LA VISTA 787-741-8700 Rooftop, Oceanfront, Sunset Dining. Open Dec 15th, Tues-Fri 4:30-9:30 pm Located above Bananas. .................................. L’MIRADOR at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 OPEN 365 DAYS New Tapas Menu Fri, Sat, Sun 5pm, Specials, Thai, Vegetarian and Vegan specials. Fun, lively setting with ocean view. .................................. MAR AZUL 787-741-3400 Fri-Mon 10am-close, Tues-Thurs 3pm-12am, Quality Pub Food / Late Night Snacks. Awesome sunsets and cocktails. Karaoke Sat. Isabel II up from the ferry. .................................. NEXT COURSE 787-741-1028 Caribbean lobster, local market fish, house dry aged beef, home made pastas. A menu that encompasses American cuisine with Caribbean flair. Reservations requested. Closed 12/2 - 12/17 Reopening 12/18 and then open everynight. Jan schedule open Fri-Wed. ..................................
NOCHE 787-741-7700 Rum Bar and Island Cuisine Fun, funky atmosphere. Wed-Sun 5-10pm .................................. PLACITA REYES Farmers Market Tues, Wed, & Fri 7am-4pm intersection of 200 and 201 .................................. RINCON DEL SABOR 939-358-1783 Authentic Puerto Rican food. Daily lunch specials starting at $6.95 Great mofongo. Kiosk truck next to gas station on 200. Tues-Fri, 10:30am-5pm .................................. SMOOTHIE GIRL Fresh fruit smoothies across from the ferry everyday. .................................. SUBWAY 787-741-1049 Ocean front near ferry in Isabel II .................................. TAVERNA 787-438-1100 Open at 5:30 closed Tues. and Wed. Italian restaurant and pizzeria. .................................. TINBOX 787-741-7700 Tues-Sat. 5-10pm Happy Hour 4-6pm $2 Tacos Sushi, Smokehouse, oysters, daily specials and artisan draft beer. Fun atmosphere. View the restaurant garden from the sushi deck. .................................. TRADEWINDS 787-741-8666 Fresh Seafood, Steaks, Pasta, Paella, and more! Lobster specials nightly. Happy hour 5-6:30pm Dinner 5:30-9:30 Nightly Breakfast 7:30-11:30 and Lunch 11:30-2pm Overlooking the ocean on the Malecón Esperanza. .................................. TSUNAMI BAR & GRILL 787-438-1049 Pitchers, beer towers, wine, craft beer, & delicious food. Oceanfront in Isabel II near ferry. ..................................
WHAT TO DO SPECIAL WEEKLY EVENTS EVERYDAY
Happy Hour, Mar Azul, 5-7pm Happy Hour Trade Winds Restaurant 5:00-6:30 Happy Hour $2 Tacos TinBox 4:00-6:00 Sunset Happy Hour Arenamar Sunbay Café Yoga everyday at W, 8:15 am BY APPOINTMENT
TRX training 315-440-0791 TUESDAY-SUN
Vinasa Yoga w/Jennifer, at Hix Island House’s Yoga Pavillion, 9:30am TUES, WED & FRI
Farmer’s Market 8am-4pm on Route 201 intersecting with Route 200
MONDAY
Beach Yoga at SunBay with Valerie, 9:30 am $10 all levels Vinasa Yoga w/Maureen at Hix Island House’s Yoga Pavillion, 9:30am TUESDAY
$12.99 Dinners at Mar Azul, 5-9pm Radio Vieques- Better Together English language show, 7pm tune in to 90.1 WEDNESDAY
Paella night w/Waldo, Belly Buttons 6-9pm, reservations requested 787.741.3336 Seafood Gala “Island Style” Fry and Broil at Tradewinds Restaurant, 5:30-9:30pm Beach Pilates Class, Sunbay 9:30am, $10, all levels THURS-SAT
Tapas- L’ Mirador Terrace at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 5pm
THURSDAY
Radio Vieques- Better Together English language show, 7pm tune in to 90.1 Bomba class with Erika. 7pm Esperanza Biblioteca Electronica
Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm Arenamar Café 2 for 1, 2 lunches for the price of 1, buy 5 piña coladas get the 6th one free. SATURDAY
AA(ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS) 787 741 0639 Mon. & Tues • Open Mtg 5:30pm Esperanza/ Bldg. behind the Trust-Malecon Weds • 6pm Open Mtg Behind Catholic Church /Isabel II
Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm 787.741.3336
Pizza Nights- Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm
Thurs. • 8:30am Playa Gallito/ Gringo Beach Open Mtg
Beach Yoga at SunBay with Valerie, 9:30 am $10 all levels
Karaoke at Mar Azul, 10pm
Sat & Sun • 10:30am Open Mtg. Behind Catholic Church Isabel II
Thursday Tours @ the Trust (VCHT). Check schedule on next page FRIDAY
Lobster Specials at Tradewinds Restaurant, 787 741-8666 Live Music & Open Jam, Mar Azul 9pm-1am Fish Fry Mar Azul Pizza Nights, Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm 787.741.3318
Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm SUNDAY Brunch Specials at Trade Winds Restaurant 07:302:30pm
Paella Special at Tradewinds Restaurant 5:30-9:30pm Quaker Worship Group 10 AM Villa Borinquen 732 713 5047.
Fri. • 6pm Closed Mtg Behind Catholixc Church Isabel II
ALANON (FRIENDS AND FAMILY OF ALCOHOLICS) 207.869.0925 Weds • 9am Behind Catholic Church Isabel II NA (NARCOTICS ANONYMOUS) 508 873 4576 Thurs 6pm Behind Catholic Church Isabel II
Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm Brunch at TinBox 11am3pm
OR WHAT TO DO
WHEN YOU’RE NOT DOING ANYTHING.
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 5 NOV. 1-30, Nano Interactive Exhibit About Nanotechnology; Project Of The Univ. Of Pr/ Humacao, at the Fort Matices. Paintings by Zaitay Gil Rivera; acylic on canvas, at the Fort TUES, NOV. 17, Cajun Night, Mar Azul THURS, NOV. 26, Thanksgiving Dinner at island restaurants, please call for reservations THUR., NOV. 26, Thanksgiving Dinner and Live Music at Carambola, Seatings at 4:00, 6:00, and 8:00pm, Music by Los Intocables, $35/person, Reservations 787-741-3318, or 787-741-0190, or reservations@carambolatable.com FRI, NOV. 27, Exhibit opening at Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery, Kelly Thompson & Garret Cook, New Works, 6-8pm, SAT, NOV 28 7pm At Fort Big Screen Presentation Of New Vieques Documentary: Vieques: An Unfinished Battle , By PR Film Maker, Juan Carlos Davila DECEMBER 2015 SAT, DEC 5 Workshop #5, 10am, At The Fort Community Radio In The Caribbean And Latin America Max Dueñas, UPR/Humacao Communications Dept. FRI, DEC. 11, Brittany Ballet Holiday Gala to support ballet classes for kids, Gallery Galleon, 7-10pm, $50 donation includes drinks and performance. 917-703-8944, wwwthebrittanydftfoundation.org SAT, DEC 12, 7pm At Fort, Opening New Art Exhibit 4 Women Of The 4Th Dimension, Myrna Pagan, Ardelle Ferrer, Sarah Cook, Susan Ravitz SUN, DEC 13, Vieques Humane Society Beach Party at Sunbay, 12 noon, Chinese Auction, Roast Pig, Music, Fun for all!
person, Reservations 787-741-3318, or 787-7410190, or reservations@carambolatable.com
Thursdays at the Trust
FRI, DEC. 25, Christmas Dinner at Trade Winds Restaurant 5:30-9:30 Reservations 787-741-8666
DECEMBER 2015
THURS, DEC. 31, Ring in the New Year at Carambola! Dinner and Live Music by Los Intocables, Seatings at 6:00, 8:00 and 10:00pm, $45per person, Reservations 787741-3318 or 787-741-0190 or reservations@ carambolatable.com THURS, DEC. 31, Annual New Year’s Eve Bash, Mar Azul JANUARY 2016 FRI, JAN. 1, Welcome in the New Year with drink specials and brunch at Trade Winds 7:30-2:30 FRI, JAN. 1, Begins ban on plastic bags in stores. Bring your own reusable bag.
THURS, DEC. 24, Christmas Eve Dinner and Band at Carambola Restaurant Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, Seatings at 4:00, 6:00, and 8:00pm, Music by Los Intocables, $40/
Please make reservations at restaurants, especially during the holidays!
SAT, DEC. 12, VCHT Open House, meet at VCHT, FREE THURS, DEC. 31, Architectural Walking Tour of Isabel II, 9-11am, meet at Plaza in Isabel II, $25.00 JANUARY 2016 THURS, JAN. 7, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00 THURS, JAN. 14, Bird Walk, 7:3010:00am, meet at VCHT, $20.00
THURS, JAN. 21, Greek Night, Mar Azul
SAT, JAN. 16, Architectural Walking Tour of IS2, 9-11am, meet at Plaza in Isabel II, $25.00
THURS, JAN 21 Exhibit opening at Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery, Group Show, New Works inspired by Vieques, 6-8pm
THURS, JAN. 21, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00
THURS, JAN 29 Exhibit opening at Gallery Galleon, CUBA! 5:30 - 8
THURS, JAN. 28, House Tour, meet at VCHT, $45.00
FEBRUARY 2016
FEBRUARY 2016
WED, FEB. 17TH, Corefi DINNER & DANCE with music by Mofongo, 6PM, Punta Mulas Lighthouse to benefit the Corefi Food Bank, Buffet dinner, $65 per person includes buffet dinner. Tickets at the door and available in retail stores on the island. Call 787-433-0413 for more information.
THURS, FEB. 4, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00
THURS, FEB 18 Exhibit opening at Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery, Christine Treibert “Fallen Flora, Vieques” 6-8pm FRI, JAN 29 Exhibit Open at Gallery Galleon, CUBA!, 5:30-9PM
THURS, FEB. 11, Bird Walk, 7:3010:00am, meet at VCHT, $20.00 SAT, FEB. 13, Architectural Walking Tour of IS2, 9-11am, meet at Plaza in Isabel II, $25.00 THURS, FEB. 18, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00 THURS, FEB. 25, Bird Walk, 7:3010:00am, meet at VCHT, $20.00 MARCH 2016
TUES, DEC. 15, La Vista opening on top of Bananas SAT, DEC. 19 15th Anniversary of Producciones Chelimón, Inc., 8pm at the Vieques Multiple Center
THURS, DEC. 24, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00
THURS, MARCH 3, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00
MON, NOV. 30, Rotary Club Welcome Back party, 5:30, La Lanchita
THURS, MARCH 10, House Tour, meet at VCHT, $45.00
MON, DEC. 7, Rotary Club monthly dinner meeting, restaurant TBD, check rotaryvieques.com for location
THURS, MARCH 17, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00
MON, JAN. 4, Rotary Club monthly dinner meeting, restaurant TBD, check rotaryvieques.com for location
THURS, MARCH 24, Bird Walk, 7:30-10:00am, meet at VCHT, $20.00
WED, JAN. 6, Rotary Club monthly dinner meeting, restaurant TBD, check rotaryvieques.com for location
THURS, MARCH 31, Playa Grande Tour, 9-11:30am, meet at VCHT, $35.00
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Relaxation delivered right to your door!
INGRID BERGMAN
Nationally Certified Massage Therapist • Swedish Deep Tissue Neuromuscular Therapy
787-435-1313 www.ViequesMassage.com viequesmassage@yahoo.com
DINNER & DANCE FUNDRAISER
SAVE THE DATE!
WED, FEB. 17TH, 6PM, Punta Mulas Lighthouse Tickets at the door and available in retail stores on the island. Call 787-433-0413 for more information. Don’t miss it!
COREFI
Concerned Residents for Improvement, Inc
is a local Vieques Island non-profit organization, registered with the local and federal government, that cares for those in need on Vieques including the sick and elderly.
Pool SPa TeCh ServiCeS swimming pool specialists Rafael peRez - cpo Certified by the national swimming pool foundation CertifiCation no. 466280
✓ Maintain the quality of your pool (water balance) ✓ equipMent repair & service / installation ✓ weekly Maintenance service available
Island GuIde To puerTo rIco, prIvaTe Tours & TransporTaTIon
Make your trip to Puerto Rico easy and fun!
Let us do the driving! Old San Juan / Rainforest / Arecibo Observatory / Camuy Caves / Bio Bay Tours / Canopy Tours / Scuba / Deep Sea Fishing / ATVs & Horseback Riding / Catamaran Sailing
787-614-8874
Carlos Rivera crtransportation.pr@gmail.com
INTERNET • SECURIT Y • SOL AR
Transportation
SBG
Affordable, Dependable, Quality Service Call us Today! (787) 506-4898
SBG H. Marcano 787.433.2024 787.439.0638
hermer@me.com
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Sarah Lee/Alison’s Adventures
SOUTH SHORE BEACHES
to Navío. Go into the cave on the left side of the beach (if facing the water) for an excellent photo spot! There’s good surf so bring your boogie board! ........................................................
BEACHES ON THE VIEQUES FISH AND WILDLIFE REFUGE* For reference, Sol Food is parked right in front of the entrance to the FWS Refuge ........................................................
........................................................
ESPERANZA BEACH To the east and
CARACAS* From 997, turn into the FWS
SUNBAY Accessible by the gated entrance off 997, Sunbay is a one mile stretch of beach. Sunbay has lifeguards and bathhouse. The entrance is 5 miles from Isabel II and 0.7 miles from Esperanza (the Malecon). There is a $2 entrance fee. ........................................................
MEDIA LUNA Enter the gated entrance off 997 at Sunbay. Follow the dirt road at the end of Sunbay and travel 0.6 more miles to Media Luna. Great for small children, Media Luna is shallow. You can walk 30 ft out into the water and still be in waist deep water. Also, for a free “spa experience,” enjoy an exfoliation from the silky, fine sand. ........................................................
west of the fishing piers in Esperanza. ........................................................
PLAYA GRANDE Leave Esperanza on 996 going west and come to a T (rt. 201). Take a left. Go 1 mile to where the road dead ends and take a left. Follow road to the bottom of the hill. Take a right onto dirt road to find a beach spot. Great beach for walking. Playa Grande is a turtle nesting beach so be sure to keep dogs on a leash and watch out for roped off nests. ........................................................
PLAYA NEGRA (BLACK SAND BEACH) Leave Esperanza on 996 going
Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to a sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1.5 more miles. No shade except for picnic gazebos in the grass area. Watch out for the sandburs! (see below). Be very careful where you step when you are in the grassy area and kids should wear their shoes down to the sand (or water’s edge). Note: Only park in the parking lot, and not in the cul-de-sac at the very end, to avoid fines. ........................................................
PLAYUELA* From 997, turn into the
FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to the brown sign for Caracas. Turn west. Come to T (201) and take left. Drive right and go aprox 1 mile to brown sign for 0.1 mile and there will be a guard Playuela and Tres Palmitas. Turn right rail and small pull off on your and drive 2 minutes to the sign and left. Park here. [It is easier to take the walking path to the left to turn around if you drive 100 get to the beach. A short walk and feet more to Gallery Galleon you’re there! and turn around in drive just past entrance to Gallery.] Walk down the path to the dried stream bed and follow to the right.It is about a 20 minute walk to the beach. If it has rained, stream bed will actually for the Coast be a small stream. Bring bug Sandbur spray and water. very prevelant at Caracas and Pata Prieta and painful to step on.
Watch out!
NAVIO Follow directions to Media Luna but pass Media Luna and take a left at the sign and go another 0.3 miles. The road is extremely rough and 4wd is required but you can also park at Media Luna and walk 72
........................................................
EL GALLITO Pass the W on 200 going
..................................................
PATA PRIETA* From 997, turn into
west and look for a parking area and short peninsula on your right. The beach is on the right. Great place to be at sunset! Excellent photo spot! ........................................................
BLAYDIN BEACH OR MOSQUITO BEACH Follow direc-
the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles. Pass turn to Caracas and continue straight on dirt road for aprox 1 mile and turn right at Pata Prieta sign. After 0.2 miles, follow the road to the right to a small parking area with sign. Walk down the (slippery) gravel path to the left of the sign to the beach. Rough road so 4wd is recommended. Bring a beach umbrella as there is little shade! ........................................................
LA CHIVA* From 997, turn into the
FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles to the end of the paved road. Pass the sign for Caracas and continue straight on the dirt road. La Chiva has numbered spots #1-21. At marker #15 the road splits so stay right if you want to explore La Chiva spots #16-21. ........................................................
LA PLATA* Follow directions to La
Chiva but when road splits take left and go 0.5 miles to reach La Plata. ........................................................
NORTH SHORE BEACHES SEA GLASS BEACH Drive into Isabel II on 200 and make a left onto main street (Calle Muñoz Rivera). Almost at the end of the street you will see an intersection with a church on your right. Make a left here and at the next intersection make a right. Park on the street (not in the yellow!) and walk to the left of the gazebo down a path to the beach. ........................................................
EL PARQUE CEIBA Go west on 201 approximatelyg 1 mile past the airport and follow the sharp curve to the right.Go down a small hill and the Ceiba tree is on your right. Enjoy the Ceiba tree without climbing, marking or damaging the roots. ........................................................
ROMPEOLAS Follow directions to the Ceiba tree but pass the Ceiba and continue on the main road to the left.Take the next right at the empty concrete structure with parking lot and this road will take you to the pier. Rompeolas pier is 1 mile long so it is great for beginning joggers or walkers! Great snorkeling on the left side of the pier.
tions to the pier but right before going out onto the pier there is a small sandy road to the left that leads to a shallow beach. There are lots of starfish here so be very careful where you step! ........................................................
PUNTA ARENAS Follow directions to Rompeolas but go past turn for pier and drive aproximately 2 miles. You will come to a sign that says you are entering FWS Refuge. Drive 1 mile and come to a T / there are spots to the left and to the right with the best snorkeling to your left. Much of Punta Arenas has eroded away so, in many places, there is not a beach to sit on until further down on the right. No-see-ums tend to come out in the afternoon so make it a morning excursion and bring your bug spray! ........................................................
BUNKERS To see the hidden Navy bunkers follow directions to Rompeolas but keep straight past the turn for pier. Drive 2 miles and take the second paved road to the left. This road is a short loop that will bring you back to the same road. IF YOU DON’T HAVE TIME TO EXPLORE THEM ALL, THESE ARE INSIDER FAVORITES!
LA CHATA Drive by the ferry on your left and go up the steep hill to the right of El Yaté Bar. Go by the lighthouse on your left and take the next right down a steep little hill. Curve to your left and follow along this shoreline road. Pass La Lanchita on left and drive aproximately 0.35 miles to a left turn onto a small dirt drive with two palms and large rocks at the end. La Chata! Keep your eyes open for sea glass. Don’t be surprised if you are swimming with horses! Many people come here to exercise them. ........................................................
PATA PRIETA 73
Isabel II Rompeolas
feRRy
AiRpoRt GAS / ATM
punta Arenas
Mosquito / Bioluminescent Bay
Sunbay playa Grande
Esperanza Cayo Afuera
AccomodAtions A1 Blue Horizon Boutique Resort A2 Bravo Beach Hotel (BBH) A3 Casa Amistad A4 Casa La Lanchita A5 El Blok A6 Flamboyan Guesthouse A7 Hacienda Tamarindo A8 Hector’s by the Sea A9 Hix Island House A10 La Finca Caribe A11 Malecon House / Boutique A12 Sea Gate Hotel A13 The Vieques Guesthouse A14 Trade Winds Guesthouse A15
W Vieques
.................................. Airlines B1 Cape Air B2 Vieques Air Link
.................................. Art gAlleries / museums C1 Fuerte Conde Mirasol C2 Gallery Galleon C3 Lulu’s Ceramics C4 Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery C5 Vieques Historical &
Conservation Trust
bio bAy / chArters / fishing / sAiling / scubA / snorkeling / pAddleboArd Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay / Gift Shop AHOY Vieques D3 BlackBeard Sports (Isabel II) D4 BlackBeard Sports (W Retreat) D5 Blue Waters Adventures D6 Caribbean Fly Fishing Co. D7 Caribbean Lady D8 Fin Time Adventures D9 Fun Brothers D10 JAK Water Sports D11 Isla Nena Scuba D12 LittleBoat Sailing D13 Marauder Sailing D14 Melaya’s Tours D15 Sea Vieques D16 SUP StandUp Paddle D17 Taino Aqua Adventures D18 Vieques Classic Charter D19 Vieques Paddleboarding D20 Vieques Island Powercat D21 Vieques Sailing Co. .................................. D1
D2
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E6 Maritza’s E7 Scooters for Rent
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7 8 .................................9 E8 Vieques Car Rental
grocery 10 F1 Buen Proveco 11 F2 Morales Grocery Store 12 F3 Placita Reyes Farmers Market 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 horsebAck riding 15 16 4x Horseback Riding 17 Esperanza Riding Company 18 G3 Sea Gate Horseback Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 20 reAl estAte G1
G2
H2 H3 H4 H5
Bravos Boyz Island Real Estate Rainbow Realty Sun Realty Vieques Realty & Rentals
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Media Luna
Navío
restAurAnts/ bArs
E1 Avis E2 Coqui Car Rental E3 Fun Brothers Scooter E4 Island Car Rental E5 Island Jeep Rental
H1
Cayo de tierra
Arenamar Café Aurora’s Chicken & Grill Bananas and La Vista Belly Buttons Blue Moon @ Blue Horizon Bilí Café del Mar Carambola @ Blue Horizon Conuco Coquí Fire Duffy’s Esperanza El Sombrero Viejo El Quenepo Guavate Lechonera Horta’s BBQ José Enrique @ El Blok L’Mirador @ Blue Horizon Mar Azul Next Course Noche Rincon del Sabor Roys Internet Café Smoothie Gals Sorcé W Subway Taverna Tin Box Trade Winds Restaurant & Gift Shop Tsunami Bar & Grill W Café
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1 Vieques Sporting Clays ................................. Wedding plAnners K1 Chezelle Dezines K2 Secret Beach Event Planners K3 Weddings in Vieques ................................. yogA / mAssAge L1 Away Spa (W) L2 Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman
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