Vieques Insider March/April/May issue

V IEQUES

M A R C H / A P R I L / M AY • 2 0 1 7 vol. 3 issue 3 • www.viequesinsider.com info@viequesinsider.com

787.435.3172

CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES

DISCOVER

SCUBA

An Underwater World Awaits

HIKE, BIKE, & RUN The National Wildlife Refuge

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22 ROOMS FROM $150 A NIGHT // LUNCH 11-5PM // DINNER 6 -11PM // SUNSET BAR // LIVE MUSIC WITH OUR SUNSET CONCERTS SERIES// DJ DANNY EVERY SUNDAY 4PM - LATE // OPEN MIC POETRY EVERY 3RD THURSDAY WITH VIEQUES VOICES // CHECK @ELBLOKVIEQUES

PHOTO: EP ANDERSON STUDIOS

PHOTO: EP ANDERSON STUDIOS

PHOTO: JESSICA EP ANDERSON STUDIOS PHOTO: CHAVES

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PHOTO: EP ANDERSON STUDIOS

HOTEL BAR RESTAURANT

ELBLOK COM 787-741- 6020 RESERVE@ELBLOK COM ESPERANZA

Island ambience Amazing food

Next Course

c u i s i n e i n s p i r e d b y t r av e l

sample menu ..............

Wasabi dusted fried calamari, Toragashi spiced fingerling potatoes, toasted sesame aioli Next Course catch of the day mini taco, tri citrus, fresh herbs, chipotle lime aioli

Specializing in

Pan seared catch of the day, wasabi-lemon whip potato, sweet-soy grape tomato salad

DRY AGED BEEF &

LOCAL LOBSTER

Dry aged beef cut of the day, truffle-reggiano pomme puree, tomato relish, whip blue cheese, crispy onion, chef vegetable selection Double cut bone in pork chop, 3 days in a brine, 3 hours on the smoker, grilled to perfection, butternut squash puree, chef vegetable selection, maple Dijon glaze

Open 5:30-10:00pM Open all holidays.

(Hours change after Easter. Please call ahead.)

787-741-1028 Reservations Appreciated

nextcoursevieques@gmail.com

Butter poached Caribbean lobster, preserved lemon crab risotto, prosciutto bound asparagus, caramelized fennel cream Dreamsicle cheesecake, orange supreme, house made whipped cream 3

8

sp

r

2 01 ing

architecture / engineering • general contractor • interior Design

787-435-3548 edkreie@gmail.com

The

Jungle Room at noche

BOOZE - BITES - BOOGIE Tuesday - Thursday 6pm - 11pm Friday & Saturday 6pm - 12pm 787-741-3992

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JUlIe deCHTer OWNER/BROKER #11261 SE HABLA ESPANOL

info@viequesrealtyandrentals.com

ParadIse revIsITed Perhaps the most amazing views on Vieques!

Situated on the highest ridge mid-island and with absolutely stunning, panoramic vistas of the entire south side and Caribbean Sea. On a titled half-acre parcel, this home is at the end of a quiet dead end street with excellent neighbors, has four bedrooms and four bathrooms and is offered furnished and turn-key. The large infinity pool and surrounding concrete deck is five star. $895,000

Island PIed-a-Terre Adorable, turn-key studio in quiet, Monte Carmelo location. Custom concrete kitchen counters and designer bathroom are high-end touches to this cozy little cabin. Front patio, back terrace and roof deck provide lots of outdoor living space. Lush tree views and nice neighbors. Untitled but with good paperwork. $90,000 Mango Tango Gorgeous turn-key in Esperanza. Mango Tango is a beautifully designed and remodeled two-bedroom/two bath home on quiet Acacia street in Esperanza, walking distance to shops and restaurants on the Malecon and to the beach at Sun Bay. Big yard with room for a pool, titled and with lovely furniture included. $249,000

www.viequesrealtyandrentals.com • 787-209-8868 5

Men’s Linen Shirts Silkscreened Tshirts Sea Glass Jewelry Organic Sunscreen Sunglasses Havaianas Natural Bug Spray Puerto Rican Coffee Local Hot Sauce Local Art & Jewelry Funny Cards Beach Hats

Funky

Beehive 6

Island clothing, locally made gifts!

ISABeL II • LOOk FOR MORe INFO ON FACeBOOk • 787.741.3192

trade Winds ON tHE MALECON iN ESPERANzA

s o d i n e v en

Serving spectacular views with fine food since 1984

B Casa Cumbre • THE BEST VIEWS ON THE ISLAND! Enjoy magnificent sunsets and two-sided views from one of the best outdoor living rooms on the island. Aptly named Casa Cumbre, this home is stunningly located on top of the mid-island ridge in Los Chivos, only minutes from everything Vieques has to offer.

Very well maintained, with an open floor plan kitchen, living room, and almost-outdoor dining room, 3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, a garage, and a wonderful swimming pool. Use it as a vacation rental, or make it your dream home in paradise.

2,737.5 square meters. Fully furnished and titled. $720,000

LA HUECA WATERFRONT ACREAGE • Puerto Rico INDIVIDUAL INVESTORS ACT - - TWO fantastic, fully titled lots of 6.3+/- acres each, with 193.5 feet and 254.0 feet of water frontage respectively. Each lot could provide multiple building sites. Each would be perfect for a dream house or could be further subdivided. The gently sloping site offers spectacular views of the south coast, the Caribbean Ocean and the islands of Esperanza, and each has frontage and access to Black Sand Beach. The 12+ acre combined parcel had all approvals in place for an Eco resort consisting of 40 rooms and 10 private Villas, a pool and accessory buildings.

Become a resident of Puerto Rico and take advantage of substantial TAX INCENTIVES!!! Both lots pay about $1,000 in property taxes annually. Either lot for $1,500,000, or both for $2,200,000!!! phone 787.741.7001 cell 787.458.7997 fax 787-741-1497 www.islandrealestate.net 575 German Rieckehoff Vieques, PR 00765

i

KKKKK

Lobster Specials Daily KKKKK

Relax and Enjoy

With the Best View of the Caribbean Sea Happy Hour drink specials 5:00 - 6:00pm

GrEaT FooD GrEaT pEopLE GrEaT pL aCE

Dinner

Breakfast/lunch

dinner 5:30-9:30

Breakfast 7:30-11:30 Lunch 11:30-2:00

Signature Filet Mignon Signature Lobster Benedict Western Omelette Harris Ranch Churrasco Huevos Rancheros Fresh Fish and Seafood Corned Beef Hash Vegetarian Entrees Prime 1855 Angus Burgers Chicken, Pork, Veal Salads, Salads, Salads!

Chef’s Specials Nightly

Gift shop Open Daily 9-5 KKK seaside Guest house

Great location • Walk to the beach $90 - $115 double a/c • breakfast included CHECK OUt OUR MENU AND SPECiALS At:

www.tradewindsvieques.com

787.741.8666 / 787.672.9927 ALWAYS CHiLDREN FRiENDLY tradewindsvieques@gmail.com

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Looking for the best place to eat in Vieques?

The Answer is in the

!

“The Snapper had superb crisp skin with tender meat on the inside. And the presentation of the fish was also amazing.”

“We shared the seafood gnocchi (Amazing!), ceviche, and tres leche cake and everything tasted so good!”

“This is my favorite restaurant in Vieques! I give Bili a five star!”

“We had lunch and dinner there on the same day!”

“ Traditional Puerto Rican food that is simply the most delicious food we had on the island!”

“The Snapper dish is by far the best fish I have ever had.” “ My favorite evening while on the island was spent here. I had the whole Red Snapper...the best fish I’ve had years.”

“Ate dinner 3 times here on a 4 night stay.

That should say it all!”

“The best food I had during my 8 day stay on Vieques.”

“Hands-down our favorite epicurean experience in Vieques...” AFAR magazine

Open Wed - Mon. 12 noon - 10pm Closed Tuesday

787-741-1382 Catering &Wedding planning Chef Eva Bolivar - 787-402-0357 8

Phone: 754-216-8168

Book Online: NautiMermaidCharters.com

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DYNAMIC AIR CONDITIONING ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR APPLIANCE REPAIR COMMERCIAL REFRIGERATION SALES I N S TA L L AT I O N SERVICE R E PA I R RESIDENTIAL COMMERCIAL

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VE N TA I N S TA L A C I O N S E R VI C I O R E PA R A C I O N RESIDENCIAL COMERCIAL

787-364-1800 dynamicairpr@hotmail.com

getting here

getting around

Fly from San Juan International (SJU) to VQS 30 minute flight, starting at $109 one way www.capeair.com www.viequesairlink.com www.airsunshine.com www.mnaviation.com (Charter flights-$1,200 each way seats 9) Fly from Isla Grande Airport (SIG) to VQS 17 minute flight, 10 minute cab ride from SJU-aprox. $20 trip (not per person) Airfare starting at $72 one way www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com Fly from Ceiba Airport (RVR) to VQS 7 minute flight Aprox 1hr cab ride from San Juan to Ceiba $100 trip (not per person) plus airfare starting at $34 one way / 7 minute flight Note: Publico Vans are located right outside baggage claim at SJU and can seat up to 10-12 people. www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com San Juan International (SJU) to Fajardo Ferry to Vieques 1 hour cab ride + 1.5 hour ferry ride 1 hour cab ride to Fajardo ferry port $100 (aprox) โ ข Ferry ticket $2 Vans can seat up to 10 people. Cost is per trip, not per person. [ Be prepared to wait or possibly be bumped if ferry is full! Vieques residents are seated first. It is not uncommon for the ferry to be late] 10

THE DISCOVERY MAP of Vieques is found at all tourism locations on Vieques and is essential for finding your way around the island.

THE VIEQUES BEACH GUIDE is a helpful guide if you want to visit some of the off-the-beaten-path beaches and learn more about the flora, fauna, culture and ecology of the island. Download it for $2.99 or pick up the printed guide at the shops around the island. www.viequesinsider.com Want to save a little $?

Pick up your VCHT DISCOUNT CARD at the VCHT Gift shop next to Duffy's on the Malecรณn.

New! V’s

T ris U Polatil ity task (U

Vehicle)

GO YOUR WAY The Fun way to see Vieques!

• Training provided To all experience levels.

• easy walk To sTore from ferry.

Servicing Ceiba and Vieques with convenient pick-up and drop off available at Ceiba Airport, Fajardo & Vieques ferry dock’s.

Call to reserve now:

1-800-633-3469 Ceiba Office (located at Ceiba Airport):

787-885-0505

Vieques Office (located on road 200 Vieques):

8am-6pm • in isabel ii www.scootersvieques.com

787-741-7722

scootersvieques@gmail.com

787-741-0284

avis.com © 2016 Avis Rent A Car System, LLC

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Aurora’s

Chicken & Grill

on rt. 201 across from Nales Hardware Store

787.741.3002 12

2 BRAND NEW CARIBBEAN LIFE SHOWS AIRING NOW ON HGTV! Show times on our facebook page or consult hgtv programming.

New clients considered for upcoming shows!

land, cOmmercial and reSidential real eState SaleS PLUS VACATION AND LONG TERM RENTALS! Office Hours: Sat. - tHurS. 10am-2pm call fOr additiOnal HOurS and appOintmentS

Office: 787.741.4312 cell: 787.435.2063 email: rainbowvqs@gmail.com 278 flamboyan esperanza

viequesrainbowrealty www.viequesrainbowrealty.com

Serendipity for sale! • An amazingly beautiful setting with a fun and modern 2 story, 2 bdrm / 2 bath home on an acre waiting for the right person to fall in love. Perched on a knoll across from the sea with expansive views from PR to St John! A short 5 minute walk to Bastimento Beach…one of the best kept secrets on the island! (woops!) $375,000 Morropo Doll House • So close to the water….feel it, smell it, hear it. Sweet, small, efficient lock and go.

Two bdrm/1 bath all concrete home, with laundry room and fenced rear yard. Titled and financeable. $179,000 Gustavo marin, Broker 787.225.5604 (lic 9905) lin Wetherby, Owner Broker 787.380 4990 (lic 7941)

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Restaurant, Beach Bar & Bakery in EspEranza

breakfast & lunch tuesDaY-sunDaY 8am-5pm MOnDaY 8aM-1PM Dinner tues-sun 5pm-10pm

787-248-2097 Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Authentic Puertorican Food

Orders to go for the beach!

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Serving fresh baked bread and pastries, gourmet coffee and espresso, tapas, fresh seafood,fresh lobster, cocktails, lunch and dinner specials.

Maritza’s

Car rentaL

The company with the newest and largest fleet. And great prices!

We take pride in your ride.

787-741- 0078 787-741-1666

Courtesy Van serViCe Largest, newest fLeet on the isLand 2017 fLeet Jeeps (4 door and 2 door) LoCaLLy owned & operated Budget friendLy Kia souLs

www.maritzascarrental.com

This could be your residence...

Design/Build Availability • Half Acre Beach Front Lot (23,000sf) Within W Hotel Property on Vieques, PR

this could be your backyard.

Asking price for the lot $987,000 (finAncing AvAilAble)

sonia@abitarealtygroup.com • 787-400-0339 15

PUBLISHER / EDITOR ASSISTANT EDITOR WEB MASTER r i d e t h e wav e

L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I TO R

Asking surfers to pose on the shore for a cover photo while picture-perfect waves beckoned them from beyond was like keeping them from their own souls… holding it just out of reach and making them jump frantically like a child to retrieve it. Listening to their oohs and aahs at a crisp wave rolling in made me feel like they understood something I never would, a different language learned from the joy of riding the waves. There was a childlike pureness they were returning to as they entered the water, their boards held close like life-long companions. And the look in their eyes as they watched the waves was something I could only describe as an electrified sense of peace.

Now, of course, my curiosity is peaked.

It can't hurt to take a few beginner surfer classes, right? The candy has been dangled in front of my face, and that little kid inside of my 46 year old body says, "I want it."

That happens often on Vieques, and whether that dangling candy is surfing, scuba diving, or just building a castle in the sand you will find yourself rediscovering that person who yearns to slip away from life's duties and have fun. Like writer Amy Gordon, who "put on her big girl bathing suit" to take a half-day scuba course and joyfully lived to tell our readers about it in this issue. She discovered an underwater world and she was hooked-something she never expected.

Maybe it is being close to nature that naturally awakens the brave child within, the child that knows no bounds and desires to ride waves or discover new worlds. Or maybe it’s simply a return to a state of just being, enjoying, and standing on solid ground while letting the waves crash all around.

Vacation offers the time and Vieques offers the possibilities. The Insider staff wishes you a wonderful vacation on Isla Nena, and hopes you find your brave child here, riding your wave.

Kelly Thompson

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ART DIRECTION / DESIGN GENERAL ASSISTANT STAFF WRITERS

KELLY THOMPSON TOM O’GRADY CODEFETTI KELLY THOMPSON CHEO DIAZ MALDONADO SCOTT D. APPELL JOSÉ CARRASQUILLO TOM KIRKBRIGHT TOM O’GRADY

PROOFREADERS

TOM O’GRADY HEATHER KNORR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

PAUL SALTZMAN

COVER PHOTOGRAPHER BOOKKEEPER PRINTER

ELLIOT ANDERSON CAROLINE KIRKBRIGHT IMPRESSIONS ASSOCIATES

787.435.3172

info@viequesinsider.com CONTRIBUTORS

Rosie Dempsey has contributed to NPR, KNPR, LA Times, Washington Post & Vieques Events and is a co-founding contributor to the English language show, Better Together on Radio Vieques. She is a conservation advocate for the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge & serves on the board of its friends group, TICATOVE.

Amy Gordon is a freelance travel writer who doesn’t feel quite right without a tan. Her articles have appeared in outlets including Harper Traveler, Where Traveler, BizBash, and Slow Living.

Heather Knorr is a former Spanish professor from Chapel Hill, North Carolina who recently moved to Vieques with her daughter, Alba. They are both avid travelers who love to kayak, bike and dance.

Paul Saltzman Originally from Maine, Paul ran from the snow four years ago and has called Vieques home ever since. Paul works as a local photographer, specializing in weddings, wildlife and drone photography.

VIEQUES INSIDER TEAM

WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM

Tom Kirkbright, Scott D. Appell,

food, gardening, horticulture ...........................................

the Green Man, originally from NYC, is a garden writer, horticultural taxonomist and ethnobotanist. He writes, gardens, and teaches horticulture. He happens to be a professional baker as well.

on the water ...........................................

a USCG Licensed Captain, and his wife Caroline first set foot on Vieques in 2004. They fell in love with its people, beaches and charm. They bought a house and moved from NJ to enjoy the island life and spend time “On The Water”.

New! Insider tee shirt shop! w w w.v i e q u e s i n s i d e r.c o m

José Carrasquillo

culture, traditions ...........................................

is a theatre practitioner, educator, writer, translator, and fellow runner. Vieques and its people, and the VCHT continue to be his passion. He dreams of Vieques’ beaches and of running with the horses on a nightly basis.

Tom O’Grady Jr.

assistant editor ...........................................

is an author and freelance writer with literature and writing degrees from Temple University (B.A.) and Rutgers University (M.A.). Tom has written in numerous commercial genres including business and training, marketing and advertising and newspaper and magazine features. In the last six years he has published four novels, all available on Amazon.com and select stores on Vieques.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHER

Elliott Anderson has been a photographer since 2006. He studied photography at Portland State University in Portland, OR and began working in the industry in 2008. Elliott has worked as a freelance photographer, post-production specialist and now, after moving here in 2012 with his wife Jillian, owns his own studio in Vieques. Jillian and Elliott now have a son of almost two years, Liam.

On the Cover: Ernesto Suarez, surfer, photographer and videographer. Ernesto offers beginner surfing lessons at Playa Caracas. Call for details. 787-635-3561

follow us online

Vieques Insider has launched a new and improved website.

The site was designed with you in mind.

It offers intuitive and responsive features.

Read the current or archived issues or explore our “topics” for specific interests.

Check the online calendar of events and find out what’s happening on the island. A restaurant guide and click-tocall phone directory make reservations for dining and activities easy. Quickly find your way around with an interactive map, and an online beach guide will give you all the information you need about Vieques beaches. And now tee shirts are for sale in the online shop. Don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter to receive notifications and coupons. We hope you enjoy Viequesinsider.com.

Also, join us on social media. “Like” our Facebook page at facebook.com/viequesinsider and follow us on Instagram to discover great places to dine, relax and sleep! Here are some of the hashtags we use in order for you to search for specific interests. Use them in your own posts to guide others! #viequesinsider #viequesinsiderbeaches #viequesshopping #viequeseats #viequescheapeats #viequeseatshealthy #viequesvegan #shoplocalvqs #viequesbeachguide #viequesinsidertees

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©Billy Robin McFarland

Kayaking, Snorkeling, & Biobay Tours 8 DiffErEnt tours

Day anD night tours • 363 Days a year KiDs 11 anD unDEr arE 1/2 PricE! Visit our NEW storE on the Malecon in Esperanza for beach items, water gear, clothing, and gifts!

www.abessnorkeling.com

(787) 741-2134

NAMES, IDENTITY, AND HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE During the time of the U.S. Navy occupation of Vieques, the beaches were renamed based on colored flags placed on them for training exercises.

Set in motion by elders and community leaders from Vieques ,the effort is underway to reclaim the former names of the beaches and restore their cultural significance and longevity.

Internet sites and publications still use the Navy names of beaches and you will hear many islanders still using the English names as well. But while you are here, please paint the mental map in your mind with the original Spanish names. The English names are listed below for your reference to the pull out map on the inside back cover. Thank you for participating in this milestone effort by honoring and using the original Spanish names of the beautiful beaches of Vieques.

HISTORICAL NAMES / FORMER U.S. NAVY NAMES

CARACAS / RED BEACH PLAYUELA / GARCIA BEACH PATA PRIETA / SECRET BEACH LA CHIVA / BLUE BEACH LA PLATA / ORCHID BEACH PUNTA ARENAS / GREEN BEACH CAMPAÑA / PURPLE BEACH MATIAS / YELLOW BEACH 18

Bar& 300+ Liquor Store cool

Open everyday 12 noon to sometime after midnight vinos Abierto desde el wines mediodia hasta algun momento despues de the place la media noche todos where the los dias

wine liquor beer

locals

hang out

BeSt priceS

open everyday abierto todos los dias

cigars 787-741-2416

ferry schedule Fajardo to Vieques 4:00 am (only Mon-Fri) 9:00 am 1:00 pm 4:45 pm 8:15 pm

Best wine selection on the island Behind the post Offiice isabel II Detras del correo en isabel II

Vieques to Fajardo 6:00 am 6:30 am (only Fri, Sat & Sun) 11:00 am 3:00 pm 6:30 pm

Schedule subject to change. Non-residents can be bumped if ferry is full.

safety tips Many visitors think that Vieques is a sleepy, laid back island where you can lay in your hammock on the beach without a care in the world. For the most part, this is true. But petty theft is everywhere and your vacation can end badly without some precaution and common sense. Follow some safety tips and always be aware of your surroundings and belongings.

ALWAYS lock the doors where you are staying.

Period. First floor, second floor, every door.

DON’T leave a cell phone or iPad charging next to an open window. Never leave house keys next to a window.

DON’T take valuables to the beach.

NEVER leave valuables unattended.

DON’T lock your car at the beach. Leave it open with nothing in it.

USE COMMON SENSE when walking around at night. Never walk on the beaches alone after dark.

O F F T H E B E A T E N P AT H

La Chata Off the beaten path and not easy to find, La Chata is a favorite for a late afternoon or early evening stroll to hunt for seaglass, shells, driftwood and interesting treasures that the tide washes up. It is a nice beach for wading but the currents here can be surprisingly strong. On the right day you can watch some of our local surfers and bodyboarders catching the waves. It is a tricky area to surf due to a razor sharp reef and high coral and rock points. It is not recommended for beginners or even advanced surfers who don’t know the reef. This is also a beach where locals come to exercise or wash their horses in the surf or walk their dogs (on a leash). Keep your eyes open during the months of January-March for whales migrating between Vieques and Culebra.

Local surfers: brothers Jonathan (Joy) Rodriguez and Ramses Rodriguez, Enchante Gallardo, and Ernesto Suarez watch for waves at La Chata, Northshore.

Photo by: Elliott Anderson 19

PLAYA LA CHIVA

JUST A RELAXING DAY AT THE BEACH Maricel Ramos Valcárel and Christopher Bockstael from New Haven, CT have been vacationing on Vieques since 2009. Maricel, a construction manager, and her husband Chris, an architect, are not prone to just relax at the beach all day soaking up sun. Instead, they create sand sculptures that have grown in scale and detail every year. Their creations range from animals - think gorillas, crabs, hippos and a 20-foot lobster – to furniture, including a full-size sofa, coffee table and credenza! This year they created Leave No Trace an enormous dragon emerging from the sands of La Chiva. Photos of the Remember to leave sculptures wind up as Christmas cards they send to a long list of friends. the beach just as you When asked why they chose Vieques as their outdoor studio Maricel replied, found it. If you or your “It’s the most beautiful, enchanting island! We love everything the island has to offer, the people, food and culture. It also has the small island vibe. children dig holes or There’s a sense of intimacy when we are there which makes it feel special. make sand castles, level Simple things like seeing wild horses, secluded beaches and relaxing.” the sand before you go.

Asked about favorite beaches for sculpting Maricel says, “Navio is our faDon’t make huts from vorite beach, and now we make a point to start there. The sand consistency the palms for shade. is perfect for almost any type of sand sculpture. La Chiva and Garcia Beach Many beaches are are other two favorites. We like to mix it up, so we go to a different beach turtle nesting beaches every day during our stay.” and baby sea turtles can get stuck, diverted by sand mounds or Cell Service at the Beach obstructions on their If you hire a publico to take you to the beaches remember to way to the ocean. arrange a pick up time before they drive off because cell service may not be available.

Express YOUR Inner Artist on Day One! Carmen’s special approach assures artistic success for everyone.

Ongoing Art

ClAsses!

Beginner to Advanced • Group classes • Art parties • Private instruction

Carmen Lund, MFA, ACC www.CarmenLund.com • 203-444-1806 20

AguAcate catering

full service catering for every occasion

presenting

“A CATERED AFFAIR” in a stunning villa with 360 degree views.

6 course prix fixe every Thursday night by reservation.

Island FIne dInIng on the Malecon, esperanza

lace for “A perfect p do and grilled dora ipirinhas.” ca passionfruit

Call for reservaTions

“Elevates native Ca ribbean ingredients… to a higher culinary plane.”

www.aguacatecatering.com

787-615-2320 see our weekly menu a catered affair by aguacate catering @ c

secret beAch events

The premier Vieques based event planning, design and production firm. www.viequeseventcreators.com

787-599-0539

Open Monday-Saturday 5:30 - Close April 23 - May 2, Closed May 3 - July 29, Open Tuesday - Saturday reservations@elquenepovieques.com

787. 741.121 5

AnaEm’s

Good Wine, Good PeoPle, Great Food A cozy Caribbean Style Bistro with Puerto Rican Cuisine, Local Flavors & Sea Food Delight. Mofongos Rellenos & Tapas. Try our Mojitos, Island Drinks, Specialty Coffees, Candy Bar buffet & Homemade desserts. “Flan de Quenepa” is a must try! Serving lunch and dinner. Don’t forget to pick up a bottle of our famous hot sauce. We also offer catering services to large or small groups.

Pa s t ry B o u t i q u e

by Biekes Bistro

Life is Uncertain.

Have Dessert First.

Cakes for any oCCasion!

wedding Parties Birthday

MON-Sat Lunch & Dinner • 11AM - 9:30PM

787-741 6381

SUNDaY 5PM - 9:30PM

www.biekesbistro.com

tel. cel.

787.741.6381 787.435.9339

340-02 Antonio G. Mellado anaemspastryboutique@gmail.com www.biekesbistro.com

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

A CASE FOR CALABAZA BY: SCOTT APPELL

If you’re at our itinerant farmers' market or local grocery stores and notice what appears to be a large, green-skinned pumpkin – you’re right on target! Known as Cucurbita maxima by botanists, locally as calabaza and West-Indian pumpkin in English, it is in fact a green-skinned, orange-fleshed pumpkin.

Like all pumpkins, it is a trailing, prostrate vine bearing coarse hairy leaves and funnel-shaped, yellow monoieceous flowers (separately male or female on the same plant).

It is a South American native that spread to Mexico and ultimately eastward. Columbus noticed the Taino Indians cultivating it on his first visit in 1493.

Calabaza may be eaten baked, boiled, fried, steamed, mashed, used in pies, breads, cakes and confectionary. The flowers may be batter-dipped and deep-fried and the seeds are popular roasted and salted. On Vieques it is a constituent of various soups (sopas), fritters (frituras), stewed meats and legumes, in puddings alone (budín) or with sweet potatoes (cazuela), and our national favorite caramel-covered custard (flan). It is a good source of minerals, carotenes and vitamin A.

We Take Care of All of Your Management Needs

Sun Realty

& Property Management

Vacation Rentals

$179K Titled

Lic. 17727

Featured Sale!

Isabel ll

Contact Annette at

Tel. 787.467.5368

infosunrealtyvieques@gmail.com

22

Propert Managemyent

Find out more at www.sunrealtyvieques.com

on the water

CRISTINA SALVASON VON ESSON • BLACK BEARD SPORTS

DISCOVER SCUBA

With

BY: CAPT. TOM KIRKBRIGHT AND AMY GORDON

all the wonderful opportunities Vieques offers those pursuing water sports, few visitors realize an incredible underwater panorama is beckoning through the thrilling sport of scuba diving. You don’t need to be a certified experienced diver to explore the amazing underwater seascapes surrounding the island.

Isla Nena Scuba and Black Beard Sports are both recognized as exceptional scuba diving operations

by PADI and their peers throughout the Caribbean. You can be assured safety is the primary concern of both dive companies. If you are looking for a shortcut to a diving certification you will not find it here.

Both companies emphasize safety and professionalism and their instructors will not let you put yourself in a position of danger. There are never more than three divers per instructor for adults and one instructor for every two children. They offer a complete range of diving programs from the Bubble Maker course for children as young as eight years old to certification courses for dive professionals. Whatever your skill level or time allotment, you’ll find a program to fit your situation.

The Discover Scuba Diving course will have you in the water on day one. My friend and colleague, Amy Gordon, has just completed this program and these were her impressions.

A MEMORY OF A LIFETIME A HALF DAY DISCOVER SCUBA COURSE BY: AMY GORDON

I've never been comfortable putting my face underwater. In summer camp it took me three years to pass the Advanced Beginner swim test because I was too scared to dive. But when I moved to Vieques last year I knew that overcoming my fear was inevitable; if I didn’t, I would be missing out on a big part of what makes this island so special.

A few weeks into living here I learned to snorkel. Putting my face into the water that first time was terrifying, but I held my breath, put on my

big-girl bathing suit and did it. I loved the rush, and soon I was venturing out as far as I could, floating at the surface and spying lobsters, turtles, stingrays and lionfish below.

Next up on my pretend-you’re-gutsy agenda was Scuba. I signed up for the Discover Scuba Diving class (DSD) through Black Beard Sports, a half-day introductory class that costs $150. Upon enrolling, I received a booklet detailing the experience, which I read cover to cover.

I arrived at the Black Beard store in Isabel II at 8 a.m. on a Friday morning, pulled on a wetsuit and met Cristina, my trusty guide to the underwater adventure to come. Cristina and I drove out to Punta Galindez – aka Pirate’s Cove – a rocky beach 23

Cristina Salvason Von Esson • Black Beard Sports

Arnaud Erhart • Isla Nena Scuba

A few seconds into the dive my fears were overcome by the excitement of what I was doing, the beauty of the world I was seeing.

just east of Pata Prieta in the along the sea floor, swimming wildlife refuge. She introduced in an underwater world filled me to the equipment we’d be with coral, sea fans, snapper, using: the regulator through barracuda, parrotfish, jacks and which I’d breathe, the air tank I’d nudibranchs. Before I knew it, carry on my back, the vest that we resurfaced at our buoy 30 would keep me afloat, the depth minutes later. The first dive of the and air pressure gauges. She day was done.

Cristina Salvason Von Esson • Black Beard Sports talked me through the basics of After a quick break and a Scuba diving, from buoyancy to chance to swap out our tanks, equalizing my ears. we headed down under again Next, top-heavy with air tanks and equipment, we for a 45-minute dive. At our deepest we were about 30 made our way into the water. Before we could get our feet below the water’s surface, two bulky, noisy beings dive underway, I was required to demonstrate three gliding amidst brightly colored reef fish and plant life. skills: clearing the regulator, recovering the regulator, I left the water energized, elated and a bit wobbly on and partially flooding and clearing my mask. I hesitantmy feet, which Cristina said happens often. On the way ly – but successfully - completed the tasks, and Cristina back to the store, I learned that in as few as three more said we were ready to dive. dives I could achieve my Scuba certification.

When snorkeling, it’s always an option to raise your Scuba can seem intimidating to those who’ve never head if you want to take a normal breath, which I do – done it before, but I urge you to give it a try before a lot. With Scuba, that’s not the case, a difference that you leave the island. Our guides are eager to introduce worried me until we started to swim. A few seconds visitors to the wide array of sea life that exists just off into the dive my fears were overcome by the excitethe coast, and they are trained extensively on keeping ment of what I was doing, the beauty of the world I divers safe. The DSD experience takes just a few hours, was seeing. I followed close behind Cristina, who kept leaving plenty of time to enjoy everything else that looking back to ask, via hand signals, if I was okay. I Vieques has to offer. Take it from someone who decided returned her gestures as emphatically as I could, trying to push her limits; you’ll leave with a lifelong memory, a to convey that I was more than okay. I was enchanted. surge in confidence and an appreciation for the specCareful not to touch or disturb anything, we moved tacular ecosystem that lies beneath the surface.

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HSUS & VHSAR

BY: VALERIE MCDYER AND KELLY THOMPSON

A Beautiful Partnership • Una Colaboración Hermosa Humane Society of the United States and Vieques Humane Society and Animal Rescue collaborate to help the island's animals. La sociedad protectora de animales de los Estados Unidos y La sociedad protectora de animales en Vieques colaboran para ayudar a la población de caballos en la isla nena.

Vieques is an island of unique beauty and character, the result of its location in the Tropic of Cancer, the history of its ever-changing demographics and its "world within a world" island nature. One of the most notable images carried home in mind and pictures by our visitors is the sight of beautiful horses.

They wander through our streets, play on our beaches and carry many a proud Viequense around town. But in recent years these noble creatures have begun to suffer. Like any animal population unchecked or managed, theirs has been growing at a rate unsustainable for a tiny island with limited resources and sometimes extreme weather conditions.

Although there is no official census, the horse population is estimated at between 1,500 and 2,000. While the beauty of wild horses running across a field may stir feelings of nature unbridled, the unfortunate flip-side is starving and dehydrated animals unable to survive. Fortunately, there are many people working to improve life for our beautiful horses.

Vieques es una isla con una belleza y personalidad sin igual debido a su ubicación cerca del trópico de cancer, su historia, sus cambios demográficos y la excentricidad de su mundo dentro de lo que conlleva ser una isla. Una de las imágenes más notables, la cual queda grabada en la mente y en las fotos de aquellos que nos visitan, es la imagen de nuestros caballos.

Se pasean por nuestras calles, juegan en nuestras playas y son cavalgados por un sin número de residentes al rededor de la isla. Desafortunadamente, en los últimos años sin control y manejo ni intervención veterinaria, estas nobles criaturas han empezado a sufrir debido a que sus números han crecido a un ritmo insostenible en una isla de recursos escasos y condiciones climáticas extremas. Aunque no existe un censo oficial, la población ha sido estimada entre 1500 y 2000 caballos.

Mientras que la belleza natural de los caballos en los paisajes naturales de nuestra isla nos muestra la naturaleza en todo su apogeo, la otra cara de la realidad es la tragedia: muchos animales hambrientos y deshidratados incapaces de sobrevivir. Afortunadamente, hay un equipo de muchas personas trabajando para mejorar la vida de los caballos en Vieques.

27

Haronid Cruz, the Municipality Director of Tourism and Cultural Affairs, acted as translator for the residents of the island and the vets from the States.

Haronid Cruz trabajó como traductor entre los residentes de la isla nena y los veterinarios de los Estados Unidos.

A PLAN

EL PLAN

In 2015 the Humane Society of the US formed a strategic partnership with the government of Puerto Rico and Vieques to improve all animal welfare.

Officials from HSUS visited Vieques originally to provide training for police officers on animal cruelty incidents and to initiate humane education programs in the schools. While the team was visiting they couldn’t help but notice the overpopulation of horses. Through subsequent discussions with the Vieques Humane Society and a request by Mayor Victor Emeric for help and guidance, HSUS instituted a five-year plan to address the problem. With a $200,000 grant awarded to the municipality of Vieques, HSUS and VHSAR, along with island horse enthusiasts and volunteers, rolled up their sleeves and began the work.

En el 2015, La sociedad protectora de animales en los Estados Unidos (HSUS por sus siglas en inglés), el gobierno de Puerto Rico y el municipio de Vieques crearon un plan estratégico con el fin de mejorar el bienestar de los animales. Funcionarios del HSUS visitaron la isla de Vieques para entrenar la fuerza policiaca sobre la incidencia de la crueldad contra los animales e iniciar programas de educación humanitaria en las escuelas. Durante dicha visita, miembros del equipo del HSUS notaron la superpoblación de caballos. A través de discusiones subsecuentes con La sociedad protectora de animales en Vieques (VHS por sus siglas en inglés) y una solicitud del alcalde Víctor Emeric para ayuda y orientación, HSUS instituyó un plan de cinco años para solucionar el problema de los caballos.

Con una subvención de $200,000 al municipio de Vieques, HSUS, VHS, los entusiastas de caballos en la isla nena y un grupo de voluntarios, se ha empezado a ejercer el plan de trabajo.

HORSE FAIR Combining veterinarian skill and a social event, Vieques kicked off efforts with a Horse Fair at the Equestrian Center in Villa Borinquen in January.

Activities included a Horse Festival, dart contraception of horses in the field, and a simultaneous spay/neuter clinic for dogs and cats at the Vieques Humane Society just up the road. With Tara Loller of HSUS recruiting top donors from the organization, twenty-four donors flew to Vieques to witness and participate in this collaborative effort and see for themselves how their dollars make a difference.

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FERIA DE CABALLOS El pasado enero, combinando el apoyo de veterinarios y un evento social, Vieques inició esfuerzos comunitarios con la feria de caballos en el Centro Ecuestre de Villa Borinquen. El programa de actividades incluyó: El festival del caballo, esterilización de caballos con dardos y una clínica de esterilización simultánea para perros y gatos en el VHS. Tara

Dr. Pedro Watlington performing an operation to neuter a dog. By end of event Sunday, 62 cats and dogs had been spayed/neutered.

Dr. Pedro Watlington haciendo una cirugía de esterilización a un perro. Al final del evento el domingo, 62 gatos y perros habian sido esterilizados.

Richard LaDez explains to a donor how the PZP immune-contraceptive is administered to the horses with an air pressured dart gun.

Richard LaDez le explica a un donante como se administra el anticonceptivo inmunológico a travéz de una pistola de dardos.

They spent their weekend not basking in the sun on a beach or poolside, but involved in all of the events for the animals. When it was over, 181 horses were treated.

While the horse fair was in full swing, the HSUS team also worked next door at the VHS shelter spaying and neutering dogs and cats. VHS had two vets, one of whom is our very own Dr. Pedro Watlington, and two vet techs to assist. VHS had pet owners fill out paperwork in advance in order to minimize wait time at the shelter. By the end of the event on Sunday, 62 cats and dogs had been spayed or neutered.

AWARENESS HSUS representatives understand the value of knowledge and visited the island’s schools prior to the event to educate students about the benefits of vaccinating a mare and the danger to free-roaming horses of repeated pregnancies and births. With children and parents more aware of the issues, enthusiasm and the will to act grew. Registration and strict documentation were required for horses to be eligible for treatment at the fair held in January.

TREATMENT According to Puerto Rico HSUS director Yolanda Álvarez, PZP is the immune-contraceptive used in the program, and it is totally non-lethal and minimally invasive. “We are not capturing or moving

Loller de HSUS consiguió el apoyo económico de su organización. Veinticuatro donantes viajaron a Vieques para participar en el esfuerzo comunitario y presenciar como su contribución ha hecho una gran diferencia. El grupo no lo pasó en la playa o en piscina sino involucrados en todos los eventos para el beneficio de la población animal. Al final de la feria 181 caballos recibieron tratamiento de esterilización. Mientras que la feria de caballos estaba en pleno apogeo, el equipo de HSUS dividió su labor voluntaria con el VHS esterilizando perros y gatos.

VHS tuvo dos veterinarios trabajando, uno de los cuales, Dr. Pedro Watlington, es el veterinario permanente con el VHS. A estos, se le agregaron dos técnicos de veterinaria quienes ayudaron a completar y procesar las formas necesarias con antelación con el fin de reducir el tiempo de espera. Al final del día, lograron esterilizar a 62 perros y gatos.

CONOCIMIENTO Los representantes de HSUS concientes del valor de la educación, visitaron las escuelas de Vieques para educar a los estudiantes acerca de los beneficios de la esterilización y el riesgo de tener caballos realengos con una alta incidencia de nacimientos.

Con estudiantes y padres conscientes sobre la situación de los caballos, hemos visto un incremento en el entusiasmo y la voluntad para remediar la situación. La registración y documentación necesaria para los caballos y sus dueños se llevó a cabo durante la feria.

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Dave Pauli demonstrates how the medicine is administered by shooting the dart into the hind flank of the horse. The dart bounces out and does not hurt the horse or the foal if she is pregnant.

Dave Pauli enseña como la dosis es administrada con el dardo en el flanco muscular de la parte posterior del caballo. El dardo administra el anticonceptivo y rebota al instante. Ni el dardo ni el anticonceptivo le hacen daño a las yeguas preñadas.

“The success of a program really relies on how much the community opens its doors and is open to the help that we can give.”

"El exito del programa en realidad depende de como la comunidad abre sus puertas y si están dispuestos a recibir la ayuda que le podemos brindar." –Dave Pauli

any horses,” she says. “We try to use low, slow, soft procedures which in most cases do not even overly stress the horses. It contracepts the mare for a year," she explains. "The dose should be repeated after two weeks, and we also vaccinate those who are pregnant, as it does not affect them," she said. The goal is to keep them vaccinated for five years, documenting the work with photos and a census.

FIELD DARTING Horses are darted with PZP by trained HSUS staff.

Using air-powered dart guns, the staff shoot the dart into the muscular hind flank of the horse, administering the contraceptive. The dart then bounces out. The dart and contraceptive do not hurt the horse or foal if she is pregnant at the time. There is an extensive documentation process because the shot needs to be repeated in order to be fully effective. The horse herds always return to the same locations to graze, and after documenting horse markings with photographs the mares can be found again.

SAFE SPACE Another measure being evaluated is to use municipal land to create a rustic pasture where the horses can roam safely, away from island traffic. There, they would also have water and food.

THE FUTURE The response by horse owners and caring animal lovers has been supportive, but the long-term success of the program will be determined by the community taking over. As with VHSAR, committed volunteers are needed. Keeping up with the treatments and monitoring the horses is crucial to outcomes. Islanders and visitors are encouraged to contact the municipal office at 787-741-5000 or email Kali Pereira at kpereira@humanesociety.org.

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TRATAMIENTO Según la directora de HSUS en Puerto Rico, Yolanda Alvarez, "PZP es el anticonceptivo inmunológico que se utiliza en esterilizaciones ya que no es letal ni invasivo." Agregó, "nosotros no estamos capturando ni moviendo a los caballos fuera de su ambiente.

Usamos procedimientos designados para no causar estrés en los caballos. El anticonceptivo en las yeguas es efectivo por un año. Una vez administrada la dosis, hay que repetirla en dos semanas. También se le puede dar el anticonceptivo a las yeguas preñadas ya que el tratamiento no les afecta la salud ni su gestación." La meta es el mantenerlas vacunadas por cinco años, actualizar la data y los expedientes y mantener un censo.

EL USO DE LOS DARDOS A los caballos se le inyecta PZP a travéz de dardos por un personal entrenado por el HSUS. Utilizando pistolas de dardos, un miembro del equipo dispara el dardo en el flanco muscular de la parte posterior del caballo. El dardo administra el anticonceptivo y rebota al instante. Ni el dardo ni el anticonceptivo le hacen daño a las yeguas preñadas. La documentación es extensa ya que el proceso hay que repetirlo para garantizar su efectividad. Las manadas de caballos siempre regresan al los mismos terrenos a pastar y una vez hay fotos con las marcas que los identifican, las yeguas se encuentran con facilidad.

UN ESPACIO PARA LOS CABALLOS Otra idea bajo evaluación es el uso de terrenos municipales para que los caballos pasten con seguridad aislados del tráfico. Dentro de estos terrenos los caballos tendrían agua y comida

EL FUTURO La reacción de los dueños de caballos y los amantes de los animales ha sido bien positiva pero el éxito del programa sera determinado por el entendimiento y la participación de la comunidad. Como con el VHSAR, el compromiso y trabajo de voluntarios es indispensable. Mantener los tratamientos y darle el seguimiento a los caballos es esencial. Se les urge a los residentes de Vieques y los visitantes a participar. Para mas información llama 787-741-5000 o email kpereira@ humanesociety.org.

Twenty-four donors flew to Vieques to witness and participate in this collaborative effort and see for themselves how their dollars make a difference. One of the HSUS donors, Georgina Bloomberg, daughter of former New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg, placed her private jet at VHS’s disposal and flew 29 dogs to the Peggy Adams Rescue League shelter in Florida. The dogs had "forever" homes within weeks.

Veinticuatro donantes viajaron a Vieques para ser testigos y participar en el esfuerzo de colaboración comunitaria, y asi ver como sus donaciones hacen una diferencia.

Una de las donantes de HSUS, Georgina Bloomberg, hija del exalcalde de la ciudad de Nueva York, Michael Bloomberg, puso a la disposición de VHS su avión privado y transportó 29 perros a la liga de rescate Peggy Adams en Florida. Todos los perros fueron adoptados permanentemente.

ISLAND OF GRATITUDE The combined effort on behalf of the HSUS, the Vieques Municipality and VHSAR will have effects that resonate far into the island’s future.

To all of the staff from HSUS, we thank you. To the sponsors who help facilitate their great work, to our own hard-working staff, veterinarians, board, and volunteers at VHSAR, to Victor Emeric for recognizing the need and reaching out, we thank you. And to all of the Vieques community who opened their doors to the possibility, understanding and change for a better future for the animals, we thank you. – Vieques Humane Society and Animal Rescue El esfuerzo entre el HSUS, el municipio de Vieques y VHSAR tendra efectos contundentes para el futuro de la isla. Le queremos dar las gracias al equipo de HSUS, los patrocinadores quienes facilitaron una gran labor, nuestro equipo de trabajo, los veterinarios, la junta de directores, los voluntarios del VHS, y al Honorable Víctor Emeric, Alcalde de Vieques por reconocer la necesidad y otorgarnos su ayuda.

Aleida Tolentino, Vieques También les damos las gracias a Humane Society & Animal la comunidad Viequense por abrir Rescue (VHSAR) Shelter sus puertas y su entendimiento a la Manager, has an endless supply of love for the animals. posibilidad de un cambio hacia un futuro mejor para la población animal de Vieques. – Vieques Humane Society and Animal Rescue

Another island organization, Our Big Fat Caribbean Rescue, will run another low-cost clinic on April 1st, assisted by the VHS staff and Dr. Pedro. The overall goal is to reduce the population of stray and feral animals on our beautiful Vieques island.

Our Big Fat Caribbean Rescue, va a conducir otra clínica de bajo costo el 1ro de abril, con la asistencia del equipo de VHS y el Dr. Pedro. El objetivo es reducir la población de animales realengos en Vieques.

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LIQUOR STORE El Sombrero Viejo 787-741-2416 Morales 787-741-3365 LOCKSMITHS Marc Weems Locksmith

787-564-5120

MASSAGE Aguahara 347-965-7656 Beatriz Beauty Boutique & Spa 787-741-1452 Blue Hill Hand & Foot Reflexology and Massage 787-908-2552 Blue Hoku (Maureen) 787-556-5025 Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman 787-435-1313 MUSEUMS Forte Conde Mirasol Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO E.P. Anderson Photography Jennifer Teeter Karl Alexander Photography Peter Saltzman River Photography Video Recording/Production

787-741-1717 787-741-8850 971-506-9406 787-469-3337 916-533-2475 207-475-6992 787-556-9030 413-237-9696

PHYSICIANS/MEDICAL SERVICES ASSMCA 787-741-4767 Behavioral Health Care 888-440-8787 Centro Quiropráctico 787-741-0414 Consejería Psicológica 787-547-9467 Dra. Daphne Torres (Dentista) 787-741-1916 Farmacia San Antonio 787-741-8397 Dra. Ivette Perez 787-741-7733 Dr. José Figueroa 787-741-2222 Dra. Fanny Garraton (dentist) 787-741-8765 Susana Centro Health Center 787-741-1166 Dentist Juan R. Gonzalez 787-318-7376 Dr. Luis Rivera 787-741-0738 POOL MAINTENANCE Anchor Landscaping 787-479-5801, 479-4310 Pool Cleaning 787-467-5318 Pool Spa Tech Services 787-506-4898 PUBLICOS/TAXIS Alba Melendez 787-435-0113 Alejito Bermúdez 939-261-7857 Ana Robles 939-244-1958 Angie Chauffeur 787-455-4596 Carlos & Denisse 787-447-8697 Danny 787-934-5840 Eddie 939-488-7464 Edna Robles 787-630-4673 Hilda Robles 787-486-0267 Henry 787-649-3838 Jose Morales 787-435-4277 Josue 787-445-4599 Juanito 787-645-2329 Julio 787-579-1141 Letty Perez/Kiany Tours 787-556-6003 Luis Gonzalez 787-435-3805 Naté 787-364-5911 Vieques Taxi 787-741-TAXI 8294 Vieques Tours & Transportation 787-397-2048 .........................................

CR Transportation (Puerto Rico) 787-614-8874 PUBLICATIONS / MARKETING Imprenta Adonai 787-741-2856 Radio Vieques 787-375-0526 Vieques Insider Magazine 787-435-3172 Viequestravel.com 212-462-2900 REAL ESTATE Bravos Boyz 787-741-1463 Guayacan Realty 787-565-0713/741-0414 Island Real Estate 787-741-7001 Rainbow Realty 787-741-4312 Sun Realty Vieques 787-467-5368 Vieques Realty & Rentals 787-209-8868

RESTAURANTS & BARS Aguacate 787-615-2320 Arenamar Café 787-239-7771 Aurora’s Chicken & Grill 787-741-3002 Bananas 787-741-8700 Belly Buttons 787-741-3336 Bilí 787-741-1382 Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Biekes Bistro 787-741-6381 Blue Moon Bar 787-741-3318 Café del Mar 787-248-2097 Carambola 787-741-3318 Conuco 787-741-2500 Coquí Fire 787-741-0401 Don Tito’s Lechon 787-741-2898 Duffy’s Esperanza 787-741-7600 El Quenepo 787-741-1215 El Sombrero Viejo 787-741-2416 El Blok 787-741-6020 Grey's Magic Coffee & Espresso 787) 741-1107 Jungle Room 787-741-3992 La Vista 787-741-8700 Lazy Jacks 787-741-1447 L’Mirador Terrace 787-741-3318 Mamasonga 787-741-0103 Mar Azul 787-741-3400 Next Course 787-741-1028 Pescaderia/Fish Market 787-349-8660 Petie's New York Deli 787-468-2102 Petie's Italian Kitchen 787-934-1172 Placita Reyes 787-598-4509 Rancho Choli 787-698-4464 Rincón del Sabor 939-358-1783 Roys Internet Café 787-741-0685 Smoothie Gals 787-435-1331 Subway 787-741-1049 Taverna 787-438-1100 Tin Box 787-741-7700 Trade Winds Restaurant 787-741-8666, 672-9927 Tsunami Grill 787-741-1049 SAILING / CHARTERS AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 East Island Excursions 787-860-3434 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 LittleBoat Sailing 787-366-5202 Marauder Sailing 787-435-4858 Sea Vieques 787-435-0256 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978 SCUBA BlackBeard Sports Isla Nena Scuba

787-741-1892 787-718-7607

SECURITY / INTERNET Hermer Marcano 787-433-2024 STS Security Technical Service 939-642-0467 SERVICES Alcoholics Anon 787-741-0639 Humane Society 787-741-0209 Baby Item Rentals 787-467-5368 Ellie's School Supply & More 787-905-6946 Small Job Handyman (Davidson) 202-744-3647 Gofers 787-220-0943 Recycling 787-741-5000 x2351 The Property Caretakers 917-831-5096 Tony’s Painting 787-602-8359 Translation Services (Heather) 919-265-8561 Translation Services (Natalia) 787-672-0801 Vieques Gas 787-741-2551 SHOPPING Abe’s Gift Shop 787-741-2134 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Funky Beehive 787-741-3192 Island Jules 516-443-3069 Luna Loca 843-271-1910 Malecon House Boutique 787-741-0663 MamaPlaya Himalaya 787-548-1010 Quiñones Electronics 787-741-2427 Sol Creation 808-280-6223 Super Outlet Video #2 787-468-2191 Toda La Casa 573-579-8026 Trade Winds Gift Shop 787-741-8666 VCHT Gift Shop 787-741-8850 Vieques Gifts 787-741-4197 Vieques Cigars @Tropical Guest Hs 787-741-2449 VQS Emporium 787-741-8880

SNORKELING TOURS / PADDLEBOARDING / EQUIPMENT RENTAL Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 Bieque Eco Trips 787-922-2701 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Blue Waters 844-210-2922 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 Din Din’s Bio Bay Tours 787-448-5931 East Island Excursions 787-860-3434 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 LittleBoat Sailing 787.366.5202 Marauder Sailing 787-435-4858 Melaya’s Tours 787-222-7055 Sea Vieques 787-435-0256 SUP StandUp Paddle 787-232-6906 Taíno Aqua Adventures 787-349-6964 Travesías Isleñas 787-447-4104 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978 Vieques Paddleboarding 787-366-5202 SPORTING CLUBS Vieques Gun Club & Sporting Clays 787-382-5242 SPA/SALON Beatriz Beauty Boutique & Spa

787-741-1452

SIGHTSEEING TOURS Kiani Tours 787-741-8687 Travesías Isleñas 787-447-4104 Vieques Island Tours &Transport. 787-397-2048 TOWING Alex 939-238-9033 Armando 787-644-1139 TRANSPORT Island Delivery (Aurelio) Gofers WEDDING PLANNERS Eva Bolivar Marry Me Vieques Secret Beach Event Creators Weddings in Vieques Wedding Officiant (bilingual)

787-238-9108 787-220-0943 787- 402-0357 573-579-8026 787-599-0539 202-486-7575 787-741-0204

YOGA / LIFECOACHING Esperanza Yoga w/Valerie 508-945-7643 Jennifer @ Hix 787-435-6850 Sylvia Fernández-Colorado,PhD 787-404-7005

NON-PROFITS / ORGANIZATIONS

Boys & Girls Clubs of PR 787-741-6006 787-402-2244 www.bgcpr.org The Brittany Dance, Film & Theatre Foundation 917-703-8944 www.thebrittanydftfoundation.org Caballos Bieke Inc. 787-984-5491 Caballos de Vieques Inc. caballosdevieques@yahoo.com Corefi 787-741-2076 787-433-0413 www.viequesinneed.org Incubadora 787-206-0602 incubadora.bieke@cprdv.org Juntos 787-556-9030, www.juntosvieques.org Parque La Ceiba Community Project 787-467-4352 Navy League 732-983-1130 tomkirkbright@gmail.com Radio Vieques, 90.1 FM 787-206-0602 www.radiovieques.net Reach For Success 787-243-1352 cpweir@gmail.com ReciclArte 787-433-0015 pcuyar@reciclartepr.org

VETERINARY SERVICES/PET CARE Dr. De Moya 787-608-7999 Pampered Pets 787-741-0639 Vieques Humane Society 787-741-0209

Rotary Club of Vieques 787-556-9030 RotaryVieques.com

MUNICIPAL / GOV. AGENCIES / PUBLIC SERVICE Banco Popular 787-741-7117 City Hall/Alcaldía 787-741-5000 Sun Bay 787-741-8198 US Fish and Wildlife Office 787-741-2138 Recycling Office 787-741-5000 Post Office 787-741-3891 PR Tourism Office Vieques Airport 787-741-2300 Isabel II 787-741-0800 AAA Autoridad de Acueductos 787-741-2001

Ticatove 787-741-2138 ticatovevieques@yahoo.com Vieques Concert Society 787-413-2450 www.viequesconcertsociety.org Vieques Humane Society 703-623-2613 volunteer line 787-741-0209 www.viequeshumanesociety.org Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust 787-741-8850 www.vcht.org info@vcht.org

EMERGENCY

To add or update your phone number please contact us at 787.435.3172 or email kelly@viequesinsider.com

Ambulance 787-741-1616 Hospital 787-741-3282 Emergency 911 Fire Dept 787-741-2111 Police 787-741-2020

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morales superdescuentos grocerystore vin

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Pr gV ieques with

Your island grocery store!

Produce, deli counter, wine & liquor, speciality sundries and dried goods, gluten free items, bottled beer and water selection, large variety of gourmet cheeses, beach items, and much more!

BIKE RENTALS SNORKELING EQUIPMENT paddleboard rental

787-741-6701 • 787-741-3365

call or stop by the shop AT EL BLOK to talk to us about our customized tours

on rt. 200

787-414-4101

Open Monday - Saturday 8am - 7pm Sunday 8am - 12pm superdescuentosmorales@yahoo.com

CAR SAVVY VERY GOOD TO KNOW

Fill Up or Top Off! The three gas stations on the island can run out of gas if deliveries are delayed especially around the holidays.

The gas trucks come on the ferry so it can be a long wait if you run out. So if the lines at the station are not long, stop in. When it is busy the lines form in one direction only and sometimes go around the block. If you see an empty spot at the pump, before pulling in, check to see if there is a line coming from the opposite direction.

Paddle, Snorkeling and Ocean Adventures

Fix a Flat Pick one of these up at any convenience store or gas station on the island and save yourself a lot of trouble.

Flats happen and usually not in the most convenient places.

Just connect, inflate and go! It will only seal temporarily so call your rental company for directions on where to go to get it fixed.

A Twist or a Tap If your car won’t start when leaving the beach, before panicking, first check your battery cable connections. On rough roads they tend to bounce and loosen.

Tighten them up or give them a tap and try again! This could save you a lot of frustration and really impress your friends!

“Treat yourself to the best....”

Beginner and advanced Trips

787-366 5202

viequespaddleboarding.com 34

BRAISED PORK BELLY WITH SAUTÉED GARLIC SHRIMP OVER POLENTA CAKES AND BLACK MOLÈ - COQUI FIRE PHOTO BY PAUL SALTZMAN

Would you like to know who is in the kitchen making those delicious meals?

MeeT the

From casual cafés to elegant fine dining, Vieques teems with fantastic restaurants.

But while front-of-house staff get to mix and mingle with guests, chefs are often the unsung heroes behind the scenes. Here’s your chance to get to know a little bit more about the men and women who put their passion on a plate every day.

chefs

By Amy Gordon Photos by: Paul Saltzman, Kelly Thompson and Manual Rodriguez

POULPE EN COLÈRE - GRILLED BABY OCTOPUS, MALANGA, SESAME CHICHARRÓN AND COCONUT INFUSION - CONUCO PHOTO BY MANUEL RODRIGUEZ

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KELLY THOMPSON KELLY THOMPSON

KELLY THOMPSON

Dan McTurnan

Dan McTurnan, Al’s Mar Azul With his hair tied back in a bandana and a Corona in hand, Dan McTurnan seems pretty unassuming. But as a former US Navy chef, he’s cooked for some of the world’s most impressive VIPs, including two sitting Presidents. He and his wife, Maria Fernandez, moved to Vieques six years ago, and he’s been serving simple, high-quality food at reasonable prices at Al’s Mar Azul ever since.

From fresh-cut French fries to biscuits and gravy, Dan’s menu focuses on comfort food. “My favorite kind of food to cook is what puts a smile on people’s faces,” he says. His days in the Navy enabled him to visit – and eat in – 37 countries, and he enjoys bringing international flavors to the restaurant with monthly specials like Indian and Greek nights. The oceanfront location at Al’s Mar Azul is a far cry from Dan’s native Michigan, but he wouldn’t trade it. “My backyard used to have snow and maple trees, and now it has boats and the beach,” he says. “I think that’s pretty cool.”

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Kurt Soukup

Erica Boulogne and Chasti Connelly Kurt Soukup, Bananas

Erica Boulogne, Arenamar Café Arenamar Café serves food in a concession stand setting at Sun Bay, but you won’t find typical park fare like hot dogs and frozen burgers on Erica Boulogne’s menu. “Cooking is not just a business for me,” she says. “I want the people who eat my food to enjoy it and feel something good.” From fresh lobster and conch to vegetarian entrees to piña coladas made from coconuts cracked open on site, Erica’s menu is heavy on Caribbean flavors, local products, and island love. Sun worshippers can even get her food delivered right to their beach chairs.

Erica operates the restaurant with her husband, Chasti Connelly. Both raised on Vieques, the two were high school sweethearts and ran an educational center for kids on the island before opening Arenamar Café 13 years ago. When she’s not working, Erica loves to dance, and she teaches bomba classes in the off season when time permits.

Kurt Soukup’s path in the restaurant business has taken him both into and out of the kitchen. Throughout his 35-year culinary career, Kurt's titles have included dishwasher, prep cook, maitre'd and executive chef, to name a few. “My journey has been hands-on, and I’ve learned from a lot of people,” he says.

Kurt dreamed of owning a restaurant in the Caribbean ever since he was a little boy. After operating eateries and catering companies in Massachusetts and Connecticut, his lifelong goal came into reach eight years ago. “We looked at St. Thomas, St. Maarten, Culebra,” he recalls, “but when we found Vieques we fell in love with it.” Kurt and his wife, Kelly, bought Bananas restaurant and guest house three years ago, and they credit a large part of the business’s success to a hard-working and dedicated staff. In their (limited) time off, Kurt and Kelly enjoy daily walks along Sun Bay, usually accompanied by one of their seven rescue dogs, all of whom are from Vieques.

PAUL SALTZMAN

Eva Bolivar

“I will never regret putting those heels and briefcase in the closet,” KELLY THOMPSON

KELLY THOMPSON

-Sonia, Bieke's Bistro

Sonia Romero

Sonia Romero, Bieke’s Bistro Sonia Romero never planned on running a restaurant, but when her parents retired in 2000, they handed her the reins to El Patio, which she later renamed Bieke’s Bistro. With the help of her staff and her vendors, and using concepts from her former career as a healthcare administrator, she quickly learned the business.

Since taking over the restaurant, Sonia has focused on adding more flavor and freshness to the menu without losing the homey, family feel that her parents created. Three years ago she enrolled in culinary school, where she particularly enjoyed classes in the art of French pastries. Her desserts are legendary, and she hopes to eventually add an open-kitchen bakery to the bistro. Sonia loves using her baking as a way to make people happy. “I will never regret putting those heels and briefcase in the closet,” she says.

Chris Ellis

Christopher ellis, Buen Provecho Eva Bolivar, Bili When Eva Bolivar was growing up in Puerto Rico, she rebelled against cooking. “I was the only girl with two brothers, and since cooking was looked at as girls’ work, I refused to do it,” she remembers. Thankfully, after pursuing a degree in design and a career at American Express, she eventually enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America and began her journey as a chef. As a student, Eva’s talents caught the attention of Puerto Rico’s governor, and when she graduated she took over the kitchen at the Governor’s Mansion for three years.

After relocating to Vieques, Eva opened Bili in 2008 with her husband, Miguel.

Eva has a wanderlust that has taken her around the world, and her travels always involve food. While Bili specializes in Puerto Rican cuisine, Eva loves incorporating local ingredients into international dishes like her Puerto Rican Thai Pasta and Cassava Gnocchi. Next up? A line of Bili-branded packaged foods, starting with the restaurant’s three varieties of homemade hot sauce.

Christopher Ellis, chef and owner of Buen Provecho, began cooking professionally at 19 years old and his career has taken him everywhere from Colorado to Ireland. He and his wife, Elizabeth Palmer, originally came to Vieques in 2000, returned full time in 2004 and opened Buen Provecho in 2012. For Christopher, the island is all about community. “I like knowing that there’s a lot of people who would do anything to help me if I asked. You don’t get that a lot of places,” he says. This spirit of camaraderie also extends to his fellow chefs, who often help each other out with everything from brainstorming ideas to borrowing ingredients to sharing employees.

Christopher and Elizabeth are on the verge of opening a second, 52-seat restaurant and bar next door. The new outpost will specialize in what Christopher calls “feel good cuisine,” where guests can leave feeling healthy, full and satisfied. The menu will be packed with fresh vegetables, local seafood and authentic Caribbean flavors.

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-Suzanne, Cafe del Mar

Xandra Lopez Suzanne Holbrooks, Café del Mar Suzanne Holbrooks’ story proves that it’s never too late to follow your dreams.

She first learned to cook at ten years old, and she wanted to own a restaurant ever since. In 2015, she and her husband, Francisco del Olmo, opened Café del Mar, where Suzanne and her staff serve up an eclectic array of savory and sweet treats. “To run a restaurant it takes a lot of people,” she says. “I have a great team.

Without them I couldn’t do it.” Suzanne spent most of her life in Vieques, where her mother was born and raised. While many of the dishes on the menu are Suzanne’s creations, she is proud to use family recipes as well, particularly her grandmother’s carrot cake, a favorite on the island. When she’s not in the kitchen, Suzanne pursues her other passion – oil painting. “I lot of chefs I know are also artists,” she says. “I think cooking and art go hand in hand.”

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Xandra Lopez, Carambola

When she was 19 years old, Xandra Lopez left Puerto Rico and headed to the Bay Area in California. Armed with a thirst for knowledge and an appetite for adventure, she began her professional culinary career. “I was lucky enough to meet a lot of incredible chefs, both men and women, who were my mentors,” she recalls. Xandra opened Carambola at the Inn at the Blue Horizon in 2006, and eleven years later Vieques continues to delight her. “I love the stars, the smell of jasmine, the hummingbirds, the flowers, the fruits,” she says. “What’s not to love about being here? It’s an amazing place.” In the kitchen, Xandra enjoys creating plates that incorporate Asian influences and utilize fresh herbs and ingredients, and she especially loves cooking breakfast while taking in the seaside views from Carambola’s open kitchen.

Rebecca Betancourt

Rebecca Betancourt, Conuco Rebecca Betancourt didn’t plan on owning a restaurant, but midway through her studies in marine biology, she knew that she wanted to pursue a different path. After finishing her degree, Rebecca enrolled in culinary school in her hometown of San Juan.

She and her husband, Manuel Rodriguez, relocated to Vieques and opened Conuco seven years ago. “It’s hard not to fall in love with Vieques,” she says.

“And when you do, you work hard to return the love.”

Rebecca describes her culinary approach as homestyle cooking, and she aims to give diners a taste of Puerto Rican cuisine the way her grandmother made it. She particularly enjoys using fresh greens from La Finca Conciencia, a local Vieques farm. “It’s important for people to know where their food comes from,” she explains. “It’s so much more beautiful when you get it that way. That’s what I appreciate and what I stand for.”

MANUEL RODRGUEZ

“I think cooking and art go hand in hand.”

KELLY THOMPSON

KELLY THOMPSON

Suzanne Holbrooks

Carlos Perez

Jimmy Cochran

PAUL SALTZMAN

KELLY THOMPSON

PAUL SALTZMAN

“Cooking here is a challenge. In the States, there's no question about whether you'll have gas or electricity or lobster tomorrow.” -Scott, El Quenepo

Scott Cole

Jimmy Cochran, Coqui Fire

Carlos Perez, El Blok

Scott Cole, El Quenepo

Jimmy Cochran originally came to Vieques sixteen years ago with plans to be a beach bum. He’d walked away from a computer engineering job in corporate America and was looking forward to bartending here. When that job fell through, he reluctantly returned to cooking, a skill that had helped put him through college. While he had always been partial to Mexican food, being back in the kitchen gave Jimmy the opportunity to learn about new styles, and his passion for cooking was reawakened. “I’m always looking and studying and reading and wanting to do more,” he says.

At Coqui Fire, Jimmy’s Mexican dishes combine refined flavors with rustic presentation. He often experiments with new combinations, like coconut mole, an original creation. Jimmy and his wife, Kat, opened Coqui Fire restaurant in 2013, but he’s been making and bottling his famous hot sauce on the island for 15 years. Today, the line includes 11 different branded and two private label varieties, with a total output of roughly 10,000 bottles every year.

Puerto Rico native Carlos Perez first worked in restaurants when he was earning his degree in finance on the main island. After he graduated, he was a banker for two years before deciding to follow his passion and go to the Culinary Institute of America in San Antonio, TX. He later came to Vieques and has been cooking at El Blok since the hotel, bar and restaurant opened in 2014.

Carlos describes his culinary style as humble, simple and delicious, and he loves seeing patrons enjoy the food and the beautiful scenery at El Blok. “I think that a lot of people are scared of El Blok because they see a big imposing building, but it’s not that way,” he says.

“Once they come in and experience how cozy it is, they change their minds.” In addition to an evolving array of dinner dishes, Carlos recently created a casual lunch menu for diners to enjoy on the open-air rooftop.

For Scott Cole, restaurants are a way of life. His father was a chef, and Scott grew up spending time in the kitchen starting at four years old. At the age of eight, he was tasked with hulling strawberries, cracking eggs and cutting broccoli and cauliflower florets, all while getting to work alongside his dad. After cooking in kitchens across the United States, Scott opened El Quenepo with his wife, Kate, ten years ago. His style is eclectic, as evidenced by a menu that includes items ranging from goat masala to seafood mofongo.

“Cooking here is a challenge,” Scott explains. “In the States, there’s no question about whether you’ll have gas or electricity or lobster tomorrow.” He loves the community spirit of Vieques and enjoys using local ingredients, particularly acerola, stone crabs, triggerfish and arugula, which often make their way into the restaurant’s rotating selection of nightly specials. “We’re always looking to develop and progress. We constantly want to improve.”

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KELLY THOMPSON

PAUL SALTZMAN

PAUL SALTZMAN

Richard Nell

Noa Berman

José Diaz

Richard Nell, next course,

Noah Berman, Lazy Jacks Noah Berman took over as kitchen manager at Lazy Jacks in 2016, but he’s been showcasing his culinary talent in restaurants across the island for the past four years. He first found his passion for cooking in high school while working at a small Argentinian deli in Western Massachusetts before moving on to top restaurants in Boston, Cambridge and North Carolina. He loves putting together thoughtful dishes and opening his diners’ palates to new ingredients. What’s his favorite dish to cook? “Whatever I’m cooking at the moment,” he says. Since coming to Lazy Jacks, he’s elevated the menu to include new items like eggplant parmesan and gourmet specialty pizzas.

On his days off you can find Noah relaxing in a hammock on the beach with a good book, some wine and his rescue dog, Dr. Joel Fleischman.

40

Richard Nell was already familiar with the Vieques dining scene when he took over as executive chef at Next Course last year. He lived here five years ago when he opened and helmed the kitchen at Orquedia’s, a since-closed steakhouse in Esperanza. Richard loves cooking farmto-table dishes when possible, and he is quite health-conscious about what he puts on the plate. “I want people to eat well, but I also want them to be happy and full.”

Richard got his start when he was 14 years old at a fish fry joint in Michigan before studying at the Culinary Institute of America. A love for travel led him behind the line in restaurants spanning Nantucket to Key Largo, St. John to, most recently, northern Alaska, where he commuted 25 miles through the ice and snow twice daily. It’s no surprise that he was thrilled to come back to this tiny Caribbean paradise. “I’ve found a new home,” he says. “I’m going to stay here for a while.”

Jose Diaz, Petie’s New York As the kitchen manager at Petie’s New York, Jose Diaz is making his grandmother proud. “When I was little, I would wake up early and cook breakfast,” he recalls. “She always told me I should be a chef.” He’s even invited her to be a guest chef at Petie’s, where she’ll be cooking her traditional Puerto Rican recipes once a week.

A native of Vieques, Jose has cooked in several of the island’s restaurants. He also spent time working at a familyowned Italian trattoria in Cleveland, where he learned to make pastas, sauces and dough. “I’ve never met someone who’s so eager to learn and who respects food more than Jose does,” says Peter Fraser, principal owner of Petie’s. “His culinary knowledge is excellent, but his thirst to know more is even better.”

Outside the kitchen, Jose enjoys spending time with his family, particularly his three young children.

Breakfast...........Desayuno Lunch.................Almuerzo Dinner...............Cena

PAUL SALTZMAN

Wine...................Vino Beer....................Cerveza Cocktails............cócteles Water.................Agua

"Choli"

Juice...................Jugo Coffee..................Café Tea.....................Té Milk....................Leche Eggs....................Juevos Toast..................Pan Tostada Pancakes...........panqueques

KELLY THOMPSON

Sausage.............Salchica

Joe Williams

Steak..................Bistec Chicken..............Pollo Turkey ...............Pavo Pork....................Cerdo Fish.....................Pescado

Choli, RANCHO CHOLI For authentic home-style Viequense cuisine, locals and visitors flock to Rancho Choli. Mariano River Corcino, better known as Choli, grew up just a few blocks from where he operates the restaurant today, and he serves his guests adapted versions of his mother’s recipes.

Choli’s favorite dishes are traditional Christmas offerings like pastelles, lechon and arroz con grandules, which you’ll find on his menu all year round. Pigs are roasted for 5-6 hours in ovens behind the restaurant where you might also find Choli in a hammock.

Food is all about family for Choli.

“I always remember having arepas and coffee with my dad and brothers,” he recalls. “We were all just enjoying each other and eating good food.” He runs the restaurant with his wife, Sonia Noemy Acevedo Torres, along with his niece, stepdaughter and several of his seven brothers.

Bacon.................Tocineta

joe williams, taverna For Massachusetts native Joe Williams, cooking is a form of artistic expression.

“I’ve been a musician my whole life,” says Joe, who plays drums in the local band Los Victones. “Cooking is another creative outlet. I realized that I was very good at it very quickly.” Joe and his wife, Liz Koogle, opened Taverna in 2008, and the restaurant has become the island’s go-to spot for gourmet pizza, pasta and Italian specialties. From kneading fresh pizza dough daily to painting the walls, Joe and Liz do it all. “We really pay attention to quality and detail and put a lot of heart into it,” he says. They open Taverna each year from November through May and in the off-season head back to The Cape, where Joe manages the kitchen at a popular restaurant in Provincetown.

Lobster................Langosta Salad.................Ensalada Rice....................Arroz Potatos...............Papas French Fries.......Papas Fritas Fried Sweet........Amarillos Plantains Fried Green........Tostones Plantains Fried..................Frito Roasted..............Asado

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rule of thumb for vegetarians

“Being a small town boy from western New York, it was such another world. It was fascinating.”

KELLY THOMPSON

- David, Tradewinds

PAUL SALTZMAN

David Donovan

david donovan, TRADE WINDS restaurant

Omar Rivera Omar Rivera, The Jungle Room, After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, Omar Rivera worked in kitchens in New York, Massachusetts and his hometown of San Juan. When the opportunity to cook in Vieques came about four years ago, he jumped at the chance. “Vieques is a very special place. It has it's own uniqueness, very different from Puerto Rico,” he says.

For his gastropub-style menu at The Jungle Room, Omar implements fromscratch cooking as much as possible. His dishes are straightforward but elegant, incorporating unique elements ranging from house-made ketchup to brioche baked fresh on site. “From simple dishes to fine dining, all food can be great if you use the right technique and the right ingredients,” he explains. He loves taking advantage of the on-property garden for herbs and greens, and he sources seafood like lobster, snapper and conch from local fishermen.

In his off time, Omar can be found surfing and practicing yoga.

>

If you’ve had the pleasure of eating David Donovan's food at Trade Winds Restaurant, you have his high school French teacher to thank. “She instilled in me a love of French culture, and so much of cooking technique is French,” he remembers. “Being a small town boy from western New York, it was such another world. It was fascinating.”

In the kitchen, David likes to keep his food simple, bringing out the subtlety and natural essence of his ingredients. He’s especially partial to seafood and loves the challenge of working with delicate cuts of fish. For the past 25 years, David has called Vieques home, and he celebrates his 20th anniversary at Trade Winds this year, a lengthy tenure that’s almost unheard of in the food service industry. “Everyone that works here is so fantastic,” he says.

“It’s been a great experience for all of us.”

HIGH SEASON ON VIEQUES IS THANKSGIVING THROUGH EASTER. B U S I N E S S E S A N D R E S TA U R A N T S SOMETIMES CHANGE THEIR HOURS A F T E R E A S T E R W H I C H FA L L S ON APRIL 16TH THIS YEAR.

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While our Vieques restaurants do not have exclusive menus for strict vegetarians, the offerings on our island have increased considerably. Raw, macrobiotic, vegan and other delicious food choices are abundant and capable of satisfying the dietary needs of an ever-growing group of diners. Rule of thumb?

Always ask! It’s the best way to discover the possibilities available as well as assure yourself the food is truly meat-free, from preparation to cooking to presentation.

Restaurants here go the extra mile when it comes to pleasing the customer.

verde - green

maduro - dead ripe

amarillo - yellow

THE MANY COLORS OF

planTains

KELLY THOMPSON

by: Scott D. Appell

Every culture seems to have their favorite (and totally addictive) deep-fried tidbit, served as a side dish or eaten as a snack. North America has its French fries, France has its pommes frites, India has its vadai. Here in Puerto Rico it’s tostones, and aren’t we glad! You will be too.

These deep-fried delights are made from 1.5-inch slices of peeled plantain, (plántano in Spanish) which are lower in sugar and higher in starch then the common garden-variety banana (guineo in Spanish).

After an initial frying at 250° (to soften them) they are smashed (or “punched”) down to flatten them and fried a second time at 350º (to crisp and color them). By the way, this cooking technique is always used when you want the perfect home-made French fry. The cooked slices are drained on paper towels to absorb excess oil, and served as a side dish. They can also be a snack - simply salted or eaten with an accompanying dipping sauce such as our local aji-li-mójili, a spicy garlic and tomato condiment.

Plantains may also be shredded and deep-fried by the spoonful to make arañitas (“little spiders”).

Like sweet bananas, plantains go through a ripening period. From green they turn yellow (amarillo in Spanish) then become “dead ripe”, known as maduro. Throughout these stages they are an integral part of Puerto Rican cuisine in innumerable dishes. You should try as many as possible while you’re visiting and decide on a favorite.

If you’d like to experiment with cooking plantains back home, cookbooks abound here, but you’ll need an urban hub that possesses Latino or Mexican groceries.

FYI - Banana Bytes, um..or Bites: Bananas and plantains don’t grow on trees or vines or bushes for that matter. They are considered to be giant herbs because they do not possess any persistent woody plant parts. Papaya plants fall into this same category.

Bananas and plantains are seedless, but wild types have hundreds of hard, inedible seeds.

They do not require pollination to produce fruit, a botanical curiosity known as parthenocarpy.

Though the leaves are inedible they are employed in Puerto Rico as flavor-enhancing wrappers for pasteles and guanimes.

In Southeast Asia the inner part of the stem is boiled and eaten like hearts of palm.

In 1999 during the restoration of the foundation of the London Bridge, archaeologists discovered what they believe to be the oldest banana in the United Kingdom: it was in a Tudor garbage pile!

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Relaxation delivered right to your door!

INGRID BERGMAN

Nationally Certified Massage Therapist • Swedish Deep Tissue Neuromuscular Therapy

787-435-1313

Comfort, Beauty & Oceanside Views

(787) 741-1128

www.ViequesMassage.com

www.bravobeachhotel.com

viequesmassage@yahoo.com

Bring a towel BEACH YOGA At SUNBAY • all levels • $10 8:30AM • Mon-Wed-Fri • Dec 2 - March 30 www.ViequesYoga.com • 508-945-7643

arenamar arenamar Sunbay Sunbay café café & & catering catering

11am-5pm 11am-5pm

Great Food, Vegetarian Options Frappés and Frozen Drinks

We deliver on the beach!

With the purchase of $25 or more will refund the parking fee* restrictions apply

787-239-7771

SOME AIRLINES CHARGE $1 PER POUND FOR LUGGAGE OVER 25 POUNDS 44

Co co nu ts fil le d w it h Ru m !

Fresh Coconut Piña Colada

Buy 10 get one

Free!

Rated the best on Vieques

TAKE A SWEATER ON THE FERRY! IT’S COLDER THAN NY IN DEC. ...WELL, ALMOST.

Sail. Snorkel. Eat. Relax

Daily Daily sail sail and and snorkel snorkel tours tours include include open open bar, bar, fresh fresh fruit fruit and and snacks, snacks, guided guided tour tour of of the the best best reef reef in in Vieques Vieques and and use use of of our our top-rate top-rate snorkel snorkel gear. gear.

Sailboat or PowerBoat Option Capt. Judi

787-435-0256 www.seavieques.com

787-741-4661 or find us on facebook!

VQ

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P E E D S H O P. C O

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any โ ข t mp

Come ride or stay with us!

ieque s

ding co ri

Sunset or daytime rides on the beach with memorable views to St.Thomas and Culebra.

lv

origin a

& HORSEBACK RIDING

Riding with SeaGate helps support our animal and horse rescue efforts.

www.seagatehotel.com

M

Private & small groups by appointment only.

SeaGate Hotel offers very comfortable lodging at an affordable price!

find us On fACEbOOk

DELI, MArKET CATErING WINE & sPIrITs BrEAKfAsT, LuNCh & EsPrEsso BAr!

Esperanza Calle Almendro one street back from the Malecรณn.

787-698

4464

Open Thurs.-Mon. 11am-10pm

Roast Roast Pork, Pork, Creole Creole Cuisine Cuisine & & Fresh Fresh Seafood Seafood everyday. everyday.

hours Mon - sat 8am-6pm Isabel segunda For provisioning requests please call

787.529.7316

Catering Catering services services available. available.

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Vieques The little

Gifts

store with a lot of stuff!

Beach SupplieS havianaS local art & craftS vQS SouvenierS clothing jewelry anD much more!

Relax, replenish, rejuvenate

787.741.1178

787.741.4197

www.hectorsbythesea.com

on the Malecon in esperanza since 2003 open everyday

“See the island the way it was meant to be seen...

on a scenic trail ride with the Caribbean Cowgirls!”

the Original

Sunset Tdance returns

every Sun day 4-8 pm

787.435.0073

www.esperanzaridingcompany.com

at Hector’s by the sea

Islandjules

|

Handcrafted Gifts and Art from Vieques Store Located @ Roy’s Coffee Lounge 355 Antonio g. Mellado, Isabel Segunda II, Vieques

Open 24 hrs @

Islandjules.com

10% online discount code: VIEQUES

Wedding� & Events SANDYMALONE

your personal cuisine

by Waldo

Stress-Free Wedding & Event Planning SandyMaloneWeddings.com • WeddingsinVieques.com 202-486-7575

Vieques

WEDDINGS WEDDING DN 46

The most delicious seafood paella - up to 8 ingredients, ribs, kebobs, paellas at the beach or your villa, to a romantic dinner for two at sunset or your wedding in Vieques...anything!

Catered dinners for small groups at Waldo’s retreat.

yourpersonalcuisine.com • 787-487-4244 Order Your Personal Bowl to Go!

photo by jeffreyfavero.com

Hix Island House v

I

e

q

u

e

s

p. r.

Hip, luxurious retreat amidst rustic Zen-like architectural elegance.

Largest, 30 acre, privately owned estate on Vieques, now available to rent! photo by jeffreyfavero.com

Open tO the public:

YOga class at Hix Pavilion Daily 9:30am

www.HixIslandHouse.com

787-741-2302

Perfect for Large Groups • Sleeps 18 • Stunning 360° Views 3 Houses /8 Bdrms. • Large Pool • Luxury Ammenities

El Cerro www.elcerrovieques.com

720-300-5679 eSPerAnzA

SHAnkLin eStAte

CasaEncanto near s eag l ass beach I n T h e hea rT OF I sab e l II

Walk to the ferry, restaurants, beaches, coffee shops, and bars!

Hospitality...it’s our nature.

Robyn FlaneRy 504-812-0383 RFlaneRy@cox.net vrbo#: 3498207 • airbnb

sleeps 6

Support the Vieques Humane Society and get your tee shirt today! www.viequesinsider.com Proceeds (minus cost) go to VHSAR.

787-741-8525

www.haciendatamarindo.com

Hacienda Tamarindo

Sail &

Little Boat Sailing

Snorkel Sailing

787-366-5202 USCG Captain US Sailing Instructor

“This is not a tour, it is an adventure...”

Exceptional Off shore Reef Snorkeling

littleboatsailing.com 47

Blue Hill Reflexology and Massage

Ha n d & F o ot r e F l e xol o G y Private & GrouP sessions at your “casita”.

Parties of 2-10 Persons 1/2 hr • $40.00 each.

Full body massaGe

787-908-2552

ARQUITECTO STANLEY HUTCHINSON 787.556.5537 46 Years Licensed Architect PR License: 14438

stanleyc.hutchinson@gmail.com

greta1181@icloud.com Judith Gulliver Cert./Lic. Reflexologist

Open for Dinner Monday through Friday

Amity Charters Private Deep Sea Fishing Charters J Ferguson, Captain

@ 5:30

Trips Leaving from Esperanza

787-502-3839

www.viequessportfishing.com amitycharters@aol.com

Greta Simmons Cert./Lic. Reflexologist

closed Sat & Sun

453 Calle Carlos LeBrum, Isabel Segunda

SIDDHIA HUTCHINSON

Art Classes

Plein Air Class Mondays 8:30 am - 11:30am Drawing Class 1:30pm - 4pm All are welcome!

Classes $30 - supplies & materials extra Sign up at the Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery or call for space and directions

787-556-5409 48

HIKE BIKE RUN

through nature:

E X P LO R E T H E V I EQ U E S N AT I O N A L W I L D L I F E R E F U G E

KARL ALEXANDER

by Rosie Dempsey & Mike Barandiaran

The Vieques National Wildlife Refuge is home to a large collection of unique natural habitats and stunning beaches that endlessly captivate visitors and locals alike. This amazing chunk of Vieques offers a wonderland of breathtaking views, meditative beaches, otherworldly waters and some beautiful displays of nature. It also offers ideal routes for the active vacationer looking to get some exercise while enjoying the diverse habitats of the Wildlife Refuge. Covering three sections of the island, the Refuge’s ecosystems span lagoons, mangrove & palm forests, and a volume of unoccupied shoreline. Look forward to more trails and expanded access in the near future. Aside from its natural beaches, the Refuge offers five mile of trails to hike, peninsulas to roam, and plenty of waves, wind and wildlife to appreciate. A few of our favorite routes and trails are listed on the following pages.

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N O TE :

MILEAGE ON MAPS IS LISTED ONE-WAY. HIKING IS ON BEATEN EARTH, LIMESTONE OR SAND. ROADS ARE PAVED, GRAVEL OR DIRT.

VIEQUES NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE 18,000 ACRES

Approximately 54% of the island is managed by the USFWS – Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

It is the second largest natural protection and conservation area in all of Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands following El Yunque (the rainforest).

This is very important in terms of conservation, since only 8% of land in the entire archipelago of Puerto Rico is legally set aside as protected lands for conservation purposes.

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jo

997

ta Coñe

5 miles

) to Pun (one way

s 2.6 mile

acas ) to Car (one way

1 mile

1 mile to

La Chiva

.5

Punto Conejo

area parking

mi

les

Playa Caracas

Bahia Tapon

BERDIALES LIGHTHOUSE & BEACH 2.4 Miles One Way (First mile not recommended as a nature hike)

Parking Area 1.4 mile

Puerto Ferro Peninsula

CARACAS BEACH ROAD 2.6 Miles paved road

Berdiales Beach BERDIALES

Second Parking LIGHTHOUSE Area

TAPON TRAIL .5 miles LA CHIVA AND PUNTA CONEJO ROAD 5 miles dirt and gravel road LA CHIVA MILE 1 mile shoreline/beach

EASTERN WILDLIFE REFUGE

The gateway to the eastern side of the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge is off 997 at Kilometer marker 3.2. Inside the gate on the left is a visitors’ center (Monday to Friday only) that offers wildlife displays. It also has a water fountain and bathrooms for those who need a cool break!

•

BERDIALES LIGHTHOUSE & BEACH

H I KI NG/ BI K IN G/ RUN N IN G • 2 .4 M ILE S

Enter the wildlife refuge gate off Rt. 997 or park your car in the lot right outside of the gate. Once inside the gate take an immediate right onto a gravel road. At 1 mile you will come to parking lot 1 with an informational kiosk. Continue another 1.4 miles past a lagoon to the lighthouse for stellar views of the craggy shoreline of Puerto Ferro Peninsula. At the "You are here" sign on the left of the lighthouse find a short path down to the often wildly choppy Berdiales beach.

•

CARACAS BEACH ROAD

H I KI NG/ BI K IN G/ RUN N IN G • 2 .6 ( PAV E D) M ILE S

Start at wildlife refuge gate and walk, jog or bike to Playa Caracas. It is 1.6 miles to a right turn at the Caracas sign and another short mile to the beach. The road is flat and paved although it can get hot, so bring water.

•

TAPON BAY TRAIL

H I KI NG/ BI K IN G/ RUN N IN G • . 5 M ILE

This short hike offers a great view of the third smallest bioluminescent bay on Vieques. The road to the trailhead is a left turn 300 yards before you get to Playa Caracas.

•

LA CHIVA & PUNTA CONEJO ROAD

H I K I N G/ B I K I N G / RU N N I N G • 5 MI L E S

This bike route is from the wildlife refuge gate to Punta Conejo Peninsula. (By the way…great coastal views!) The first 1.6 miles are on the same paved road that leads to the sign for Caracas. Continue straight past the sign another 3.4 miles on a gravel/dirt road.

At the fork in the road stay to the right until you reach the tip of the peninsula: this section can get really dusty (especially when drivers who share the road with you do not follow the speed limits). If you bear left at the fork in the road by entrance #14, your bike ride will take you to La Plata beach, the most eastern beach open to the public.

•

LA CHIVA MILE

WA L K I N G / RU N N I N G • 1 MI L E

If running or walking is more your style we recommend "The La Chiva Mile." This is the length of a stretch of La Chiva beach where you can run along the shoreline in the sand. The entire beach has numbered entrance markers and was voted favorite beach in Puerto Rico by “Travel & Leisure”. To ensure you cover a mile you must go from entrance #4 to #15 along the shore and from #15 to #18 along the road.

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TRES PALMITAS, PLAYUELA TRAIL, AND CERRO (HILL) PLAYUELA TRAIL 1.3 mi.

Enter the wildlife refuge off Rt. 997.

After 1.6 miles turn right at sign for Playa Caracas, this road will take you to a sign that reads Playuela and Tres Palmitas. From here you will reach the Playuela trail & beach, the Cerro Playuela trail and Tres Palmitas point.

This last one is a very small peninsula in Puerto Ferro Bay. According to your pleasure, you may explore each section individually or as a group.

.57 mi.

H I KI NG/ BIK IN G/ RUN N IN G

CARACAS TRES PALMITAS .08 mi.

PLAYUELA TRAIL AND THE CERRO (HILL) PLAYUELA TRAIL These two trails are connected by Playuela Beach. The Playuela Trail starts at the sign in the parking area and follows a narrow dirt path to the beach including the length of the beach.

At the west end of the beach begins Cerro Playuela Trail which winds up a steep hill for .08 miles. If you are biking you will need to walk your bike on the beach and carry it up or down a section of this hill. At the top of this hill is a cliff with a nice view of Caracas.

.56

mi. .

i 6m

.1

CORCHO BEACH

PLAYUELA

.25 m

i.

CLIFF VIEWS

ROAD TO TRES PALMITAS PLAYUELA TRAIL (includes beach) STEEP CLIMB (walk your bike)

Many folks prefer to bike or run on the road to Tres Palmitas first (1.3 miles) and from there go into the Cerro (hill) Playuela Trail. This is a short but beautiful hike that takes you through various tropical habitats. Continue on the trail and watch for signage which will take you to the two other short sections of this trail. (Refer to map…each portion of the trail indicates distances.)

CERRO PLAYUELA TRAIL CLIFF VIEW TRAIL (Hike Only) CORCHO BEACH TRAIL

Fork in the trail…Cliff side or Corcho Beach? …you pick!

This cliff section is hiking only due to the holes and bumps from the limestone base, which will play havoc on bike tires. To reach the tiny but beautiful Corcho Beach you can hike or bike on a slight downhill. Be aware that during the rainy season the mangrove section before the beach floods. You can get wet or walk on the short detour through the trees.

DON’T GET LOCKED IN.

Gates close automatically. If you get locked in you may have a long wait before employees or police officers can come to open the gates.

APRIL 1 - SEPT. 30 • 6 AM - 7:30 PM OCT. 1 - MARCH 31 • 6 AM - 6:30 PM 52

Don’t go off the roads and trails. Portions of the eastern refuge are closed for cleanup of unexploded ordnances due to decades as a Navy training base.

Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes for hiking or running sneakers to jog.

Avoid beach burrs.

SOUTHWEST WILDLIFE REFUGE

Take Rt. 996 from Esperanza and go left at the T onto Rt. 201 through the pastoral La Hueca area to the dead end. Go left into the Wildlife Refuge. Although the gates are not locked, the southwest portion of the wildlife refuge has the same hours of operation as the eastern side.

However, it is open all night for night fishing.

1.3 mi.

2.2 mi.

PLAYA GRANDE BEACH

PLAYA GRAND BEACH

WALKI NG / RUN N IN G • 1. 3 M ILE S

PLAYA GRANDE TO PUNTA VACA

Playa Grande is a beautiful stretch of beach known for its consistent high wind and strong tides. Swimming is not recommended at Playa Grande but its more-than-amile expanse of beach is perfect for walking or jogging.

PLAYA GRANDE TO PUNTA VACA PENINSULA WALKI NG / RUN N IN G / BIK ING • 2 . 2 M ILE S

Start at parking area (the circular lot is 100 yards from the entrance) and walk, run or bike on a narrow dirt road that will take you past the lagoon bridge to the end of the southwestern road and onto the Punta Vaca Peninsula and beach. (Note, some folks swim at this beach when the waters are calm, but strong currents can make it treacherous.

NORTHWEST WILDLIFE REFUGE

Go west on Rt. 200 past the airport, Ceiba tree and mile-long pier and bear right into a dense palm forest leading to the narrow shore of Punta Arenas, which translates to “point of sand". Along this road you will find an interpretative kiosk and a 100-yard boardwalk along a mangrove forest to the Kiani Lagoon. No-see-ums are prevalent here in the late afternoon or if there is no breeze, so plan accordingly. Like the southwest section the gates are not locked. The northwest portion of the wildlife refuge has the same hours of operation as the eastern side. However, it is open all night for night fishing.

AIRPORT TO PUNTA ARENAS

AIRPORT TO PUNTA ARENAS

7 mi.

B I KI NG / RUN N IN G • 7 M ILE S

For the more serious bikers or runners, start at the airport and take Rt. 200 west all the way into the wildlife refuge ending at Punta Arenas. The route is paved except for the last 1.7 miles in the wildlife refuge.

Watch where you step or cycle and don’t go over brush or you could risk injury or a popped tire from acacia or bayahonda (mesquite) thorns.

Cell phone reception is limited in most areas of the wildlife refuge. Go with a buddy!

No-see-ums or gnats are prevalent in high vegetation areas in late afternoon.

Mileage on maps is listed one-way.

Hiking is on beaten earth, limestone or sand.

Roads are paved, gravel or dirt.

Take Water!

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Hashtag your photos #viequesinsider to have them published in a future issue.

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calendar of events MARCH THURSDAY, MAR 2, Playa Grande Tour.

Explore the old sugar mill at Playa Grande on this walking tour. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended during this 3-hour tour.

Reservations can be made at the Trust or by visiting www.VCHT.org 9:00am to 12 Noon.

Meet at VCHT in Esperanza. Cost $35 suggested donation for adults. $15 for kids.

THURSDAY, MAR 2, Vieques Voices. Open mic Poetry, Music, Comedy. 10pm at El Guayacan. Free.

SATURDAY, MARCH 4, Ticatove BBQ and beach cleanup at Caracas. 9am Cleanup 11am BBQ, Caracas Beach Free MONDAY MAR 6, Annual Rotary Bash on the Malecón. 6-11pm. Start with cocktails at El Blok and then to La Nasa for a multi-course dinner and dancing. All proceeds goes to support programs that benefit Vieques youth. Tickets: $100 WEDNESDAY, MAR 8, Two Women, One Paradise. Paintings by Jackie Cruz and Valerie Gillett. 5:30-7:30pm. Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. Free.

THURSDAY, MAR 9, VCHT House Tour. Visit unique Vieques Homes. Meet at VCHT 9am.

Reservations required.

THURSDAY, MAR 9, Vieques Voices. Open mic Poetry, Music, Comedy. 7:30pm at VQS Emporium. Free.

THURS-SAT, MAR 9-11 – The 2017 Vieques International Film Festival. A 3-night event celebrating new films created by Hispanic/ Latino filmmakers from across the globe (with an emphasis on Puerto Rican filmmakers).

Conuco Restaurant. Doors open at 5pm.

Films start at 6:30pm. Cost: Online: $10 for 1 evening; $17 for 2 evenings; $22 full festival.

(At door: $10 per night).

SATURDAY, MAR 11, The Annual Navy League Pig Roast. Raffle, silent auction, door prizes, bring refreshments. Great food and

entertainment. Come spend a day on the beach with friends and off duty Coast Guard.

Tickets sold at Funky Beehive, La Lanchita, Vieques Flowers and Gifts. Bring friends and family. 11:30 am to sunset at Sun Bay. Cost: $40.

WEDNESDAY, MAR 15, Food Bank, In back of the old municipal hospital next to the senior center. To visit the pantry, you must qualify for food assistance. 9am-2pm THURSDAY, MAR 16, Benefit Art Auction Gala for the Vieques Humane Society & Animal Rescue (VHSAR).The 12X12 gala evening is a festive fundraising event, featuring artwork created by Vieques students, community members, and professional artists—all auctioned for the benefit of the VHSAR. The evening includes free refreshments, bidding, and raffles. All are welcome! The gala is the finale bidding opportunity for this important animal welfare fundraiser. Prior to the gala, artwork is on display at the gallery for bidding March 6-16. Sponsored by Siddhia Hutchinson & Glen Wielgus, owners, Siddhia Hutchinson/Glen Wielgus Gallery.

THURSDAY, MAR 16, Architectural Walking Tour of Isabel II. Take a walk back in time to visit and learn about some of the architectural gems of Isabel II. 9:00am to 11:30am, Meet at Plaza in Isabel II, $25 suggested donation 787.741.8850 FRIDAY, MAR 17, St Paddy’s Celebration at Lazy Jacks. Celebrate St Patrick’s Day at Lazy Jacks with green beer and Jameson specials.

Remember to wear green, or else…9pm at Lazy Jacks. Free.

SATURDAY, MAR 18, Los Victones. Live Local Music. 5pm El Blok. No cover.

THURSDAY, MAR 23, Playa Grande Tour.

Explore the old sugar mill at Playa Grande on this walking tour. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended during this 3-hour tour.

Reservations can be made at the Trust or by visiting www.VCHT.org 9:00am to 12 Noon.

Meet at VCHT in Esperanza. Cost $35 suggested donation for adults. $15 for kids.

THURSDAY, MAR 23, Abraham Dorta. 5pm.

El Blok. No cover.

THURSDAY, MAR 30, Bird Walk. Explore some of the best birding spots of Vieques with our local guides. 7:30am, Meet at VCHT in Esperanza, Cost, $20 787.741.8850 THURSDAY, MAR 30, Eco Roots. Live Reggae. 5pm at El Blok. No Cover.

APRIL APRIL 1, Vieques Voices Presents: The Vagina Monologues. Time: TBD at El Blok.

Cost: $35.

THURSDAY, APR 13, Vieques Voices. Open mic Poetry, Music, Comedy. 7:30pm at VQS Emporium. Free.

SATURDAY, APR 15, Sunset Concert Series Presents: Madera Fina. Salsa y Tropical. 5pm at El Blok.

WEDNESDAY, APR 19, Food Bank, In back of the old municipal hospital next to the senior center. To visit the pantry, you must qualify for food assistance. 9am-2pm WEDNESDAY, APR 24, A benefit auction for the Vieques Humane Society & Animal Rescue, Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery

MAY THURSDAY, MAY 4, Vieques Voices. Open mic Poetry, Music, Comedy. 10 pm at El Guayacan. Free.

THURSDAY, MAY 11, Vieques Voices. Open mic Poetry, Music, Comedy. 7:30 pm at Emporium. Free.

THURSDAY, MAY 18, Vieques Voices. Open mic Poetry, Music, Comedy. 6 pm at El Blok.

Free.

Find out what's happening on Vieques and don't miss a thing! Go to www.viequesinsider.com/events.

EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITY Award-winning airline magazine seeks energetic self-starter for ad sales. Position comes with generous commission and flight benefits.

Must have proven ad sales experience.

Send your resume to Kimberly.corkran@capeair.com.

56

If you have an event that you would like published on the online or printed calendar please go to www.viequesinsider.com/events.

Click on "submit event" and fill out the simple form.

It's easy!

weekly events EVERYDAY Happy Hour, Mar Azul, 5-7pm Yoga W Hotel 8:15am MEDALLA HAPPY HOUR $1.00 5-7pm El Sombrero Viejo Happy Hour at Trade Winds Restaurant, 5-6:00pm Happy Hour at Bananas, $4 Margaritas and Rum punch, $7 Cheeseburger w/fries & $4 fish tacos 11am to 12:30pm & 4:30 to 6:00pm EVERY MONDAY, WEDNESDAY & FRIDAY Esperanza Yoga at Playa Sunbay 8:30AM Increasing happiness, promoting health & harmony.

MONDAYS The Art of Seeing Vieques. Learn to paint and see Vieques. 9:00am. Locations throughout Vieques TBA. 203-444-1806.

Lobster Specials Night at Bili 787-741-1382 Plein Air class with Siddhia Hutchinson 8:30 to 11:30 Cost $30, Supplies & materials available. Everyone welcome. 787-556-5409 Call for class location.

Drawing class with Siddhia Hutchinson 1:30 to 4:00 Siddhia Studio Cost $30, Supplies & materials available. Everyone welcome, 787556-5409. Meet at Siddhia's home studio up from the ferry. Call for directions.

TUESDAY THROUGH SUN Vinyasa Yoga w/Jennifer. Hix Island House Open-Air Yoga Pavilion, Rain or shine. 9:30am, $15 mat rental included. No reservations necessary. 787-741-2302

Seafood Gala"Island style" Fry and Broil, Tradewinds Restaurant 5:30-9:30 reservations 787-741-8666

SATURDAY

Sandra Reyes Art Workshops in Villa Borinquen. Play with clay or paint. Call for workshop info. and to reserve space. 939488-6734

Pizza Night, Blue Moon Bar, Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm, 787-741-3318

WEDNESDAY - SATURDAY

Karaoke Night, Mar Azul 9pm

Vieques Humane Society Thrift Store: Isabel II. Just over the Mambiche bridge, one block up the hill. Follow the painted paw prints! HOURS: Wed.-Sat., 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM Contact Val McDyer, 787-690-0890.

Donations of gently used items accepted and encouraged.

Vieques Humane Society & Animal Rescue (VHSAR) Shelter Hours: Friday & Saturday, 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM (adoptions/meet ‘n greets)

THURSDAY Better Together, Radio Vieques, 7pm – 8pm.

Every Thursday during the months of January and February. English language show focusing on Vieques’ culture & history, arts & events, conservation & education. Stream at www.Radiovieques.net or Tune in to 90.1.

"A Catered Affair", 6 course prix fixe dinner in a lovely hilltop Hix-designed villa, $65. See this weeks menu on Facebook at A Catered Affair, Reservations required. 787-615-2320 Vieques Voices- Stand up spoken word, comedy and music. All are welcome. First Thursday of the month 10-midnight at Plaza Guayacán. Second Thursday at The Emporium 7:30, Third Thursday of the month at El Blok on the rooftop terrace. 5-8pm Bomba Classes at Sunbay, 6pm, $12 Next Course Happy Hour, 5:30-6:30 pm, Appetizer and cocktails specials at the bar only FRIDAY

TUESDAY

Farmer’s Market, Placita Reyes, Rts 200/201, 8am-4pm

Farmers' Market, Placita Reyes, Rts 200/201, 8am-4pm

Pizza Night, Blue Moon Bar, Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm, 787-741-3318

Mar Azul Dinners $12.99, 5-9pm

Live Music/Open Jam, Mar Azul 9pm-1am

Better Together, Radio Vieques, 7pm – 8pm.

English language show focusing on Vieques’ culture & history, arts & events, conservation & education. Stream at www.Radiovieques. net or Tune in to 90.1.

Fish Fry, Mar Azul

Next Course Happy Hour, 5:30-6:30 pm, Appetizer and cocktails specials at the bar only TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY Vieques Humane Society & Animal Rescue Shelter and Clinic Open, Santa Maria (on the way to Villa Bourinquen), 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (vet on island) Contact: 787-741-0209 WEDNESDAY Ceviche Bar Night at Bili 787-741-1382 Paella Specials at Bili 787-741-1382 Ladies Night @ Tropical Guest House Lounge 7-11pm. 2 for 1 specials for ladies.

Gentlemen welcome.

Farmers Market Placita Reyes, intersection of RT. 200 and 201 8am-4pm

Mojito Night at Bili 787-741-1382 Sushi Night at Bieke's Bistro, 6pm till 10pm, 787.741.6381 Vieques Humane Society Adoptions, Meet 'n Greets 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM, 787-741-0209 Vieques Humane Society Walk-a-Dog Volunteers are welcomed 10:00AM – 1:00 PM at the back gate of the VHS shelter in Santa Maria to enjoy a beach walk and provide enrichment and exercise for the shelter’s satos (island dogs). For details: Call Cyndi Casey Thomas 703-623-2613.

Lobster Specials at Tradewinds Restaurant.

5:30-9:30 787-741-8666

Tapas Specials at Bili 787-741-1382

Classic Pasta Night at Trade Winds Restaurant. Chef David’s Pasta Night featuring Puttanesca, Alfredo, Carbonara, Pesto, Bolognese, Marinara. Includes salad and garlic bread. 5:30pm-9:30pm. $16.50. 787-741-8666 Sandra Reyes Art Workshops in Villa Borinquen. Play with clay or paint. Call for workshop info. and to reserve space. 939488-6734 SUNDAY Hector’s by the Sea the original Sunset Tdance. Leave the beach and come for a cocktail, dancing and fun under the gazebo at Hector’s by the Sea, 4pm-8pm. 787-741-1178 Sunset Dance and cocktails on El Blok Terraza, beats of DJ Danny and drink specials. 4pm-8pm, All welcome 787-741-6020 Sunday Night Paella at Trade Winds Restaurant. Chef David’s Paella mix of shellfish, chicken, sausage mixed with Spanish Style saffron rice. 5:30-9:30pm. 787-741-8666 Puerto Rican Fiesta Night at Bili. Grandma's recipes 787-741-1382

AA (ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS) 787-741-0639 OPEN MEETINGS • Mon. & Tues. • .5:30pm Esperanza/ Bldg. behind the Trust-Malecon Weds. & Fri• 6pm Behind Catholic Church / Isabel II Thurs. • Beach Meeting! 8:30am Playa Gallito /west of the W (Gringo Beach) Sat. & Sun. • 10:30am Behind Catholic Church Isabel II ALANON (FRIENDS AND FAMILY OF ALCOHOLICS) 207.-869-0925 Weds. • 9am Behind Catholic Church Isabel II NA (NARCOTICS ANONYMOUS) 508-873-4576 Thurs. • 6pm Behind Catholic Church Isabel II

VIEQUES HUMANE SOCIETY HOURS Clinic Hours-Vet on island: Tues. and Wed. 10am-5pm Shelter Hours: Fri. & Sat. 10am-2pm Thrift Store Open: Wed.-Sat. 10am-2pm

Torta Friday Traditional Mexican pork Torta to go. It begins with a Mexican bolillo with salsa macha aoli, Coqui fire carnitas, sauteed onions and peppers, and cabbage slaw. Only to-go orders $10.00 11am till 2pm at Coqui Fire Cafe 787 741 0401

57

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H. H. Marcano Marcano 787.433.2024 787.433.2024 hermer@me.com hermer@me.com

WHERE TO DRINK & DINE AGUACATE “A CATERED AFFAIR” 787-615-2320 A 6-course prix fixe dinner in a Hix-designed hilltop villa. Thursday nights. Reservations required. ..................................

ANA EM'S 787-741-6381 Pastry Boutique and Cakes for any occasion. Located at Bieke's Bistro. ..................................

ARENAMAR CAFE AND CATERING 787-239-7771 Great food, vegetarian options, Frappes & Frozen drinks. Beach delivery. Located at Sunbay. ..................................

AURORA’S CHICKEN & GRILL 787-741-3002 Roasted, BBQ, fried, and rotisserie chicken, hand-dipped ice cream, authentic local food and more! On 201 across from Nales Hardware store. Open everyday 10:30 am8:30pm ..................................

BANANAS BEACH BAR AND GRILL 787-741-8700 Open air, ocean view with an eclectic menu and social atmosphere.

Open 7 days a week Lunch & Dinner 11:00am to 10:00pm, Daily happy hour with great specials. ..................................

BIEKE'S BISTRO 787-741-6381 Caribbean Style Bistro with Puerto Rican cuisine. Speciality Bakery, pastries, custom cakes and sweets. Mon-Sat 11am-9:30pm, Sun 5-9:30pm .................................

BILÍ 787-741-1382 Creative Puerto Rican Cuisine.

Fresh seafood, daily specials.

Open -air dining across from the Malecón. Island Vibe. Open Wed-Mon, 12noon-10pm Catering services available. ..................................

BLUE MOON BAR & GRILL at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Circular artistic hand-painted bar.

A great place to meet! Breakfast, lunch, or dinner! Open 365 days. ..................................

BUEN PROVECHO 787-529-7316 Deli, Market, Café, Wine & Spirits.

Breakfast, lunch and occasional pop-up dinners. Next to Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery in Isabel II. Open 8am-6pm. .............................

CAFE DEL MAR 787-248-2097 Breakfast, lunch, & dinner, fresh bread and pastries made daily, gourmet coffee, espresso, tapas, cocktails, chef’s specials. Open Everyday.

Hours subject to change. ..................................

CARAMBOLA AT THE BLUE HORIZON BOUTIQUE RESORT 787-741-3318 Breakfast 7:00am - 12:00pm Lunch 12 -pm - 3 -pm Dinner 3:00pm - 10pm Great local and international dishes served in Caribbean fashion. Open 365 days.

Beautiful, unique setting overlooking the ocean. ..................................

CONUCO 787-741-2500 Cocina Puertorriqueña. Authentic Puerto Rican food in a warm elegant atmosphere. Located in Isabel II across from Banco Popular. ........................

COQUI FIRE CAFÉ 787-741-0401 Mon - Fri 5-9pm Gourmet Mexican food, reservations a must. Isabel II. ........................

EL SOMBRERO VIEJO BAR & LIQUOR STORE 787-741-2416 Everyday 12noon-after midnight.

Local bar, hang out and wine cellar. ........................

EL BLOK 787-741-6020 Open everyday, Lunch 11am-3pm, Dinner, 6-10:00pm Caribbean flavors with locally sourced products.

Mesquite fired grilled-whole fish, beef & pork porterhouse. Offering whole roasted chickens and a large selection of smaller dishes.

Rooftop Sunset Cocktails 4-6pm.

Sunday Sunset on the roof with DJ Danny 4pm ........................

EL QUENEPO 787-741-1215 Fine Dining on the Malecón in Esperanza. Chef’s specials nightly.

Eclectic cuisine featured in Travel & Leisure and the New York Times. ..................................

THE JUNGLE ROOM 787-741-3992 Booze, Bites, & Boogie! The new hot spot next to Tin Box (formerly Noche). Come see what all the fuss is about. Tues-Sat 7pm-close ........................

LAZY JACKS 787-741-5555 Pizza , burgers, hot & cold sandwiches and more. Where the locals hang out.

On the Malecón in Esperanza. Open everyday noon til midnight. Always open after the Biobay! ........................

L’MIRADOR at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 OPEN 365 DAYS Fri, Sat, Sun 5pm, Specials, Thai, Vegetarian and Vegan specials.

Fun, lively setting with ocean view. ..................................

MAR AZUL 787-741-3400 Fri-Mon 10am-close, Tues-Thurs 3pm-12am, Quality Pub Food / Late Night Snacks. Fri Fish Fry. Tues $12.99 dinners. Awesome sunsets and cocktails. Karaoke Sat. Isabel II up from the ferry. ..................................

NEXT COURSE 787-741-1028 Caribbean lobster, local market fish, house dry aged beef, home made pastas. A menu that encompasses American cuisine with Caribbean flair. Reservations requested. ..................................

PETIE'S NEW YORK DELI 787-981-6142 Isabel II on Calle Benitez Guzman (formerly Mr. Sushi). NY style hoagies, fresh salads, pizza, pasta, salads and daily specials!

Beach lunches to go!

8 am - 4 pm and 5 pm - 10 pm ..................................

RANCHO CHOLI 787-698-4464 Roasted Lechon and authentic Creole food. Fresh seafood everyday. Fun atmosphere.

Open Thurs. - Mon 11am-10pm Catering services available everyday. One street behind Malecón.

Turn right at Lazy Jacks and then first right. ..................................

RINCON DEL SABOR 939-358-1783 Authentic Puerto Rican food. Daily lunch specials starting at $6.50!

Great mofongo. Kiosk truck next to gas station on 200. Tues-Fri, 10:30am-5pm Weekends in Esperanza 11am-7pm ..................................

SUBWAY 787-741-1049 Oceanfront near ferry in Isabel II ..................................

TAVERNA Italian restaurant and pizzeria with vegetarian options.

Mon-Fri 5:30 ..................................

TRADE WINDS RESTAURANT 787-741-8666 Fresh Seafood, Steaks, Pasta, Paella, and more! Lobster specials nightly. Overlooking the ocean on the Malecón Esperanza.

Dinner 5:30-9:30 Breakfast 7:3011:30, Lunch 11:30-2pm, Drink specials 5pm-6pm ..................................

Note: Hours and days are subject to change.

Businesses generally change their operating hours after Easter. Check the dining guide on www.viequesinsider.com.

59

SOUTH SHORE BEACHES

to Navío. Go into the cave on the left side of the beach (if facing the water) for an excellent photo spot! There’s good surf so bring your boogie board! ........................................................

BEACHES ON THE VIEQUES FISH AND WILDLIFE REFUGE* For reference, Sol Food truck is parked right in front of the entrance to the FWS Refuge ........................................................

........................................................

ESPERANZA BEACH To the east and

CARACAS* From 997, turn into the FWS

SUNBAY Accessible by the gated entrance off 997, Sunbay is a one-mile stretch of beach. Sunbay has lifeguards and bathhouse. The entrance is 5 miles from Isabel II and 0.7 miles from Esperanza (the Malecon).

There is a $2 entrance fee. ........................................................

MEDIA LUNA Enter the gated entrance off 997 at Sunbay. Follow the dirt road at the end of Sunbay and travel 0.6 more miles to Media Luna. Great for small children, Media Luna is shallow. You can walk 30 ft out into the water and still be in waist-deep water.

Also, for a free “spa experience,” enjoy an exfoliation from the silky, fine sand. ........................................................

NAVIO Follow directions to Media Luna but pass Media Luna and take a left at the sign and go another 0.3 miles. The road is extremely rough and 4wd is required but you can also park at Media Luna and walk 60

west of the fishing piers in Esperanza. ........................................................

PLAYA GRANDE Leave Esperanza on 996 going west and come to a T (rt. 201).

Take a left. Go 1 mile to where the road dead ends and take a left. Follow road to the bottom of the hill. Take a right onto dirt road to find a beach spot. Great beach for walking.

Playa Grande is a turtle nesting beach so be sure to keep dogs on a leash and watch out for roped off nests. ............ ............................................

PLAYA NEGRA (BLACK SAND BEACH) Leave Esperanza on 996 going west. Come to T (201) and take aleft.

Drive 0.1 mile and there will be a guard rail and small pull off on your left. Park here. [It is easier to drive 100 feet more to first left past Gallery Galleon and turn around there.] Walk down the path to the dried stream bed and follow to the right.

It is about a 20 minute walk to the beach. If it has rained, stream bed will actually be a small stream. Bring bug spray and water.

Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to a sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1.5 more miles. No shade except for picnic gazebos in the grass area. Watch out for the sandburs! (see below). Be very careful where you step when you are in the grassy area and kids should wear their shoes down to the sand (or water’s edge).

Note: Only park in the parking lot, and not in the cul-de-sac at the very end, to avoid fines. ........................................................

PLAYUELA* From 997, turn into the FWS

Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to the brown sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1 mile to brown sign for Playuela and Tres Palmitas. Turn right and drive 2 minutes to the sign and take the walking path to the left to get to the beach. A short walk and you’re there! ........................................................

PATA PRIETA* From 997, turn into

BLAYDIN BEACH OR MOSQUITO BEACH Follow direc-

the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles. Pass turn to Caracas and continue straight on dirt road for aprox 1 mile and turn right at Pata Prieta sign. After 0.2 miles, follow the road to the right to a small parking area with sign. Walk down the (slippery) gravel path to the left of the sign to the beach. Rough road so 4wd is recommended. Bring a beach umbrella as there is little shade! ........................................................

tions to the pier but right before going out onto the pier there is a small sandy road to the left that leads to a shallow beach. There are lots of starfish here so be very careful where you step! ........................................................

PUNTA ARENAS Follow directions

LA CHIVA* From 997, turn into the

FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles to the end of the paved road.

Pass the sign for Caracas and continue straight on the dirt road. La Chiva has numbered spots #1-21. At marker #15 the road splits so stay right if you want to explore La Chiva spots #16-21. ........................................................

LA PLATA* Follow directions to La

Chiva but when road splits take left and go 0.5 miles to reach La Plata. ........................................................

NORTH SHORE BEACHES SEA GLASS BEACH Drive into Isabel II on 200 and make a left onto main street (Calle Muñoz Rivera). Almost at the end of the street you will see an intersection with a church on your right. Make a left here and at the next intersection make a right.

Park on the street (not in the yellow!) and walk to the left of the gazebo down a path to the beach. ........................................................

LA CHATA Drive by the ferry on your left and go up the steep hill to the right of El Yaté Bar. Go by the lighthouse on your left and take the next right down a steep little hill. Curve to your left and follow along this shoreline road. Pass La Lanchita on left and drive aproximately 0.35 miles to a left turn onto a small dirt drive with two palms and large rocks at the end. La Chata! Keep your eyes open for sea glass. Don’t be surprised if you are swimming with horses! Many people come here to exercise them. ........................................................

EL GALLITO Pass the W on 200 going west and look for a parking area and short peninsula on your right. The beach is on the right. Great place to be at sunset! Excellent photo spot!

........................................................

EL PARQUE CEIBA Go west on 201 approximately 1 mile past the airport and follow the sharp curve to the right. Go down a small hill and the Ceiba tree is on your right. Enjoy the Ceiba tree without climbing, marking or damaging the roots. ........................................................

ROMPEOLAS Follow directions to the Ceiba tree but pass the Ceiba and continue on the main road to the left.Take the next right at the empty concrete structure with parking lot and this road will take you to the pier. Rompeolas pier is 1 mile long so it is great for beginning joggers or walkers! Great snorkeling on the left side of the pier.

to Rompeolas but go past turn for pier and drive aproximately 2 miles. You will come to a sign that says you are entering FWS Refuge. Drive 1 mile and come to a T / there are spots to the left and to the right with the best snorkeling to your left. Much of Punta Arenas has eroded away, so in many places, there is not a beach to sit on until further down on the right. No-see-ums tend to come out in the afternoon so make it a morning excursion and bring your bug spray! ................................

BUNKERS To see the hidden Navy bunkers follow directions to Rompeolas but keep straight past the turn for pier. Drive 2 miles and take the second paved road to the left.

This road is a short loop that will bring you back to the same road.

IF YOU DON’T HAVE TIME TO EXPLORE THEM ALL, THESE ARE INSIDER FAVORITES!

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For A List Of Our Holiday Special Event Menu’s Visit ViequesInsider.com/Events Opens Daily for :

An Island Restaurant

Breakfast 7:00am to 12:00pm Lunch 12:00pm to 3:00pm Dinner 3:00pm to 9:30 pm Blue Moon Bar & Grill

An Island Rendezvous

Opens Daily from.

9:00am to closing

Holiday Special Events: 4th of July Labor day

Ocean Front Barefoot Elegance

L'Mirador Opens Fridays and Saturdays From 6:00pm to closing

Columbus day Thanksgiving

62

If It’s The Only Thing You Do. . .

You Have Not Seen Vieques Till You've Come To The Blue

The TripAdvisor Recommended Boutique Resort

Enjoy The Leeward Side Of Vieques...

Rd 996 Km. 4.3... 1 Kilometer Past Esperanza 787.741.3318 BlueHorizonBoutiqueResort.com

63

VISIT THE

CEIBA TREE

ENJOY A

WATCH THE SUNSET ON THE SOUTH SIDE PASS IT ON

GO ON A

TOUR

QUESITO

SMILE BIG

(SNORKELING, SAILING, HORSEBACK RIDING, WHAT’S YOUR FANCY?)

FORGET YOURSELF

COLLECT SEA GLASS

SEE THE SUGAR MILL RUINS

TIP APPRECIATE LOCAL ART

TRY A QUENEPA GO TO THE FORT LISTEN TO RADIO VIEQUES

JUMP OFF

THE PIER IN ESPERANZA

SAMPLE FARE FROM THE KIOSKS

snorkel the pier

DONATE TO A LOCAL NON PROFIT GET PUNCHY!

LISTEN FOR A COQUI

GET LOST

WATCH THE SUNSET ON THE NORTH SIDE

HAVE LOCAL LOBSTER

salsa at la nasaquick,quick,quickquickslowslow

ADOPT A DOG FIND A HEART ROCK SEE ARCHIVED ISSUES AT

www.viequesinsider.com 787.435.3172

k e l l y @ v i e q u e s i n s i d e r. c o m 64