Vieques Insider Feb Mar by kellyt

insider [V I E Q U E S ]

F E B R U A RY / M A R C H • 2 0 1 5 vol. 1 issue 3 • 787.435.3172

CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES

ON THE WATER LIFE’S A TRIP pg. 21-23

CASA KARMA ISLAND HOME pg. 49-51

AMAZING B E AC H E S pg. 66-67 1

Island ambience. Amazing food.

Next Course

c u i s i n e i n s p i r e d b y t r av e l

Valentine’s Day Specials Sopa de la noche: Caribbean Lobster bisque, herb focaccia croutons Roasted baby beet salad, frisee and arugula, herbed goat cheese, beet chips, citronette

Open friday – wednesday 5:30 pm – 10 pm Closed Thursday

787-741-1028

Reservations Appreciated

nextcourseinfo@yahoo.com

Steamed little neck clams and house made chorizo in a sea urchin butter broth, grilled baguette Surf and Turf, 45 day in house dry aged NY strip, 6 oz Caribbean lobster tail, smashed fingerling potatoes, sautéed spinach, lobster butter béarnaise Double cut bone in pork chop, butternut squash puree, pancetta dusted brussel sprouts, maple Dijon glaze Warm chocolate lava cake, Vanilla ice cream, raspberry coulis 3

EDITOR, PUBLISHER

KELLY THOMPSON

ASSISTANT EDITOR

TOM O’GRADY

WEB MASTER ART DIRECTION / DESIGN GENERAL ASSISTANT

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR ................................

PHOTOGRAPHY

Disentangle Welcome to Vieques and the third issue of Vieques Insider! This issue will introduce you to a few things Vieques has to offer but also give you a glimpse into the lives of people who live here. What appears to most visitors as people living the “island life” or an “alternative lifestyle” is really folks living life in a place that happens to be different. Okay, it looks like paradise. Okay, it’s warm too. But island life still means working to make a living, saving to put our kids through school, falling in love, sealing our roof, going to the dentist, pushing ourselves to new challenges and trying to keep New Year resolutions that are quickly forgotten. In this issue you’ll meet people who have lived here all their lives, people who have relocated here and visitors who return every year for their island fix. Like the New York doctor who leaves his work behind each year to feel Vieques sand between his toes. Or the young, burgeoning musician born here, who wants to see the world. Or the bread maker who left a high stress, high paying job in the states to live here who says, “We’ve never worked harder than we do here on Vieques. But we love what we do.” A new life, a different view of the world, an escape to Paradise. And for many of us, home. The connecting thread is the energy of Vieques, and the heightened awareness that the wind, sand and sea provide. With visitors’ eyes we work on this magazine to provide you a sense of that energy. Every day we look at Vieques with challenge and delight to discover the uncommon and rediscover what has become common, hoping to help you connect quickly so you can begin to unwind, relax and disentangle. (I love that word.) I was a visitor once and I found myself with that feeling you get when you are in the right place at the right time. I decided to try to make that feeling last for as long as possible. It’s been 11 years – and like the bread maker, I’ve never worked harder in my life and yet, I love what I do. What we’re all doing on this island – nativeborn, relocated, visitor – is living. And the way we live our lives is as different as the weather in February in upstate New York and the beach at La Chiva – or as common as time and age. The reasons why are just labels people use to try and explain it. Forget the reasons and labels, just breathe. Here’s hoping in this New Year you find your Vieques and Vieques finds you. Kelly Thompson 6

MARC MARGATE KELLY THOMPSON CHEO DIAZ MALDONADO KELLY THOMPSON, ELLIOT ANDERSON, JEN TEETER, GRACE COOK, SANDRA MUDGE, ELAIN HEUMANN GURIAN, KARL ALEXANDER

787.435.3172

WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM info@viequesinsider.com

C O N T R I B U TO R S

Scott D. Appell, the Green Man, originally from NYC, is a garden writer, horticultural taxonomist and ethnobotanist. He writes, gardens, and teaches horticulture. He happens to be a professional baker as well.

José Carasquillo, has lived in Vieques for 10 years. Stateside he’s a theatre director and educator. Here in paradise José is the co-owner of a guesthouse, works as a volunteer for not-for-profit organizations, and logs hundreds of miles every year running all over Vieques.

Grace Cook is 14 years old and has lived on Vieques all of her life. Aside from playing the cuatro, surfing, and being a member of Reach for Success, she is passionate about photography and is Vieques Insider’s youngest contributing photographer as well as the Assistant Instagram Photo Editor.

Ben M. Gasirowski, M.D., FACEP is Board Certified in Emergency Medicine and Internal Medicine, he lives part time on Vieques.

Tom Kirkbright, a USCG Licensed Captain, and his wife Caroline first set foot on Vieques in 2004. They fell in love with its people, beaches and charm. They bought a house and moved from NJ to enjoy the island life and spend time “On The Water”.

ON THE COVER Lirio Márquez D’Acunti. is currently the Executive Director of the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. She has been a member of the Vieques Restoration Advisory Board since 2001 and of the White House Vieques Sustainability Task Force since its creation in 2011. Previous to working at the VCHT, Mrs. Márquez was a legislative advisor on community and environmental issues and a consultant for environmental and human rights international organizations in Latin America.

Cynthia Nicholson came to Vieques over 20 years ago and was immediately smitten with its wild beauty. Cynthia has served as an editor, producer, and writer for many national publications such as Cooking Light, Country Living, and Real Simple. For the past several years she has developed her passions for food, wine and travel into her own business: consulting and hosting custom food and wine-purposed curated excursions to Sicily, North Africa, and other Mediterranean destinations.

Tom O’Grady Jr. is an author and freelance writer from Philadelphia with literature and writing degrees from Temple University (B.A.) and Rutgers University (M.A.). Tom has written in numerous commercial genres including business and training, marketing and advertising and newspaper and magazine features. He has focused on writing fiction for the last five years and has published three novels, all available on Amazon.com and select stores. He lives on Vieques with his wife, Liz, where he is currently writing a fourth novel.

Corky Parker started the island’s oldest eco resort, La Finca Caribe, in Pilon 19 years ago. With a masters certificate in sustainable business, she’s directed corporate responsibility for a major online retailer, and led a communications team in Seattle. When she’s not making beds and teaching guests about recycling, Corky writes, makes artwork, and raises sheep with her husband Bill on a small farm in Washington.

COVER ARTIST

Elliott Anderson has been a photographer since 2006. He studied photography at Portland State University in Portland, OR and began working in the industry in 2008. Elliott has worked as a freelance photographer, postproduction specialist and now, after moving here in 2012 with his wife Jillian, owns his own studio in Vieques.

Jennifer Dehner

[Yoga Jen, Beading Bikini Jen] BY: TOM O’GRADY, JR. ...................................................................................

You won’t find too many resumes like this. Dancer, actress, costumer, knitter, sewer, milliner, jewelry maker, body surfer, yoga instructor. If that doesn’t meet your job requirements there’s one more. Fire twirler. Not kidding. But Jennifer Dehner, AKA Yoga Jen, isn’t looking for a job or to meet anyone’s requirements. She’s too busy living her “nomadic” life. Or was. Washington State, California, Virginia, Utah, New York, then a healthy childhood to adulthood dose of Italy. A child of constantly moving musicand-theater parents, what else would she be? And she’s happy to be whatever and wherever she is. She loves her parents back in Northern California and treasures the nomadic life they gave her. But she’s been here on Vieques for sixteen years. The yoga keeps her balanced and the island keeps her busy. Teaching yoga, making and selling her jewelry, getting to the beach and the rain forest. Is there something missing? Hard to tell, comfortable as she is in her toned and tan skin. But her bright eyes are still looking, her arms and hands stretching to touch an invisible sense of everything around her. Has Vieques claimed her? Not likely. But for now, or at least the last sixteen years, and probably forever, it’s part of her. “Coming here,” she says, her eyes moving left, right, opened, closed, collecting the energy around her, “you remember you’re organic. Connected.” Jewelry sold at www.beadingbikini.com Beading Bikini Boutique @ Noche & Tin Box Restaurants 6-10pm Tues-Sun or by appointment 787-435-6850 Jungle Hut @ Chez Shack, Mondays 6-10pm Vinyasa Yoga at Hix House Pavilion Tues-Sun 9:30am, All levels 7

J U LI E D E C HTE R OWNER/BROKER #11261 SE HABLA ESPANOL

email: info@viequesrealtyandrentals.com

787.741.0330 www.viequesrealtyandrentals.com

Casa Limones This spacious home sits on 15 mountain-top acres of prime land in the exclusive La Llave sector of Puerto Real. There are water vistas in every direction, with views of the Atlantic to the north and the Caribbean to the south. A series of vaulted pavilions with a total of four bedrooms and three bathrooms, give the home an open, inviting feel. The pool, seamlessly joined to the expansive outside terraces, is 32 feet long, 16 feet wide and 8 feet deep, an ideal size for swimming laps. Great care has been taken with the landscaping of Casa Limones, with lush, manicured tropical gardens surrounding the house, and the remainder of the property consisting of pasture and natural jungle. Casa Limones is a property that was thoughtfully and lovingly created, offered now at a very attractive price. $1,390,000 http://casalimones-vieques.com

Casa aLiCia Situated on the most fantastic mountain-top location in the exclusive Destino neighborhood, Casa Alicia is truly prime real estate. The titled land parcel is 1.6 acres and provides great privacy with amazing panoramic views of both the Atlantic Ocean and Puerto Rico, as well as the entire south side of the island and Caribbean Sea. The architecturally designed two-bedroom/two-bath home was planned for future construction of a second story expansion and already features stair access to a huge roof deck. Mature landscaping with many fruit trees and room for pool and additional dwellings. $555,000

Pinos C o t ta g e

Ideally located on quiet Pinos Street in Esperanza and with a big, beautiful fenced yard, this two-bedroom/one-bath has upgraded windows, bathroom and appliances, AC in large bedrooms, outdoor shower and storage shed. Lots of room to expand, walking distance to Malecon and beach. $235,000

(787) 981 - 4109

info@FinTimeAdventures.com

Based In

Vieques, Puerto Rico

Snorkeling, Fishing, and Custom Adventures Vieques and Culebra Boat Excursions

Fin Time Adventures offers spectacular snorkeling, fishing, and custom boat charters in Vieques, Puerto Rico. Climb aboard the only vessel on the island with regularly scheduled snorkeling trips to the coast of Culebra and Flamenco Beach.

Reef Snorkeling Early Bird & Sunset Trips Swim with Sea Turtle Blue Water & Bottom Fishing Snacks & Non-Alcoholic Beverages Private Charters & Custom Adventures ...and much more Se Habla EspaĂąol..... Ven a disfrutar de tu aventura entre las aguas de Vieques y Culebra.

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The A Unique Caribbean Inn v 1 5 s t u d i o a pa r t m e n t s a n d s u i t e s v Equipped kitchenettes, Pool overlooking the east coast of Puerto Rico Friendly bilingual staff, Rate includes continental breakfast on canopied garden patio, Beach necessities provided free of charge, TV, AC, WiFi

Best value on Vieques! crowsnestvqs@gmail.com Facebook: The Crowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nest

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Creative Puerto Rican Cuisine

Vieques Catering Weddings and eVents

Restaurant Open Thurs – Tues. • 11am to 10pm Weekends closing time 11pm • Closed on Wednesdays

787.741.1382 Choose Vieques Catering to cater and plan your wedding or event. Custom care and attention to detail is our speciality. And, of course, the food! Menus customized for you. Catering by Chef Eva Bolivar

www.viequescatering.com

RAINBOW REALTY AND VIEQUES ON NEW CARIBBEAN LIFE TV SERIES! Show times on our website and Facebook page!

Experienced and Knowledgeable Brokers... Land, cOmmeRciaL and ResidenTiaL ReaL esTaTe saLes

PLUS VACATION AND LONG TERM RENTALS! Office Hours: Tues-saT 8am-2pm and by appOinTmenT Office:

787.741.4312 cell: 787.435.2063 email: rainbowvqs@gmail.com 278 flamboyan esperanza Gustavo marin, broker 787.225.5604 (Lic 9905) Lin Wetherby, Owner broker 787.380 4990 (Lic 7941)

www.viequesrainbowrealty.com

An exceptionally large 11 acre farm in Martineau, with rolling hills, superb ocean views, easy paved road access off Rte 200 & affordably priced ! Close to the W and the Airport; includes the original, mostly concrete, farm house . A truly special find in an idyllic setting! ONLY $450,000 !!! CASA MIMOSAA remarkable residential estate in a most private setting, situated in one of the more picturesque & diverse of barrios: Villa Borinquen. With STUNNING VIEWS, at the end of a rural country road, this impressive 4 bdrm/3 bath property, on more than two acres of meticulously cared for land,provides two separate, comfortable & elegantly furnished living areas! Must see to appreciate. $599,000

many HOme LisTinGs in desiRabLe espeRanZa ReasOnabLy pRiced! https://www.facebook.com/viequesrainbowrealty

C O N S E R VA T I O N

Green Vieques

VISITOR’S POINT OF VIEW

MEDICAL NOTES

Brooklyn to Vieques

ON THE WATER LIFE’S A TRIP P. 2 1 - 2 3

B I O B AY WA T C H

Steps to Preservation

FAC E S O F V I E Q U E S

Barbarita and Flavio

32-33

Doctors, Dentists, and Pharmacies

M O T H E R N AT U R E

Be “In the Know”

37-39 SPORT

Shoot for the Moon

44-45

H E A LT H Y L I V I N ’

Run Vieques

DOCTORS ORDERS

Rehydrate

THOSE CRAZY KIDS

49-51

ISLAND HOME

Casa Karma

Puerto Rico Flag by John Towne. On display at the Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery.

PA S T I M E S

Dominos

LOV E STO R I E S

Romance, Bewilderment, and Awesome Radiance

OUT N ABOUT

PHOTO BY: SANDRA MUDGE

WELCOME TO

PHONE DIRECTORY 34-35 RESTAURANT GUIDE 64 EVENT CALENDAR 65 BEACH GUIDE 66-67

Vieques “Isla Nena” • Little Girl Island Population (2010) • Total 9,301

VIEQUES

4 miles

Isabel II

Esperanza 21 miles

green vieques BY CORKY PARKER AND THE VIEQUES RECYCLING DEPARTMENT

We love to share Isla Nena’s natural beauty, but as Vieques gets more and more discovered, the impact of its growing tourism grows as well. To maintain its unique beauty, with the limited infrastructure and budget of a small island, we need to work together. Here’s ten things you can do to help: 1. Recycle! You can now recycle aluminum, tin, cardboard, plastics (#1 and #2) and paper. You can drop off items at recycling locations listed below or call the city’s recycling office. (787741-5000) 2. Bring your own reusable water bottle. Our water comes from the rainforest in Puerto Rico so it’s clean and safe to drink. Bringing a bottle in your bag weighs nothing, and re-filling it here saves money. More importantly, it cuts down on the 123 tons per week of waste that ends up in our local landfill, or worse, floating in our oceans. Also remember, because our water supply is brought to the island it is not endless. Conserve water when possible.

WEST END RECYCLING OFFICE Follow 200 going West. After you pass the pier take your first left before the large field across from Milivy Church. (If you get to the church you have gone too far.) / Drive 0.25 miles and look for signs for the recycling office on the left.

3. Bring your own reusable shopping bag. Most of the stores here use lots (and lots) of plastic bags. Cut down on wasted plastic by using your own bag every time you shop, and reusing the ones you’ll end up with anyway.

5. Use less by speaking up. Often you can get your drink in a real glass rather than plastic if you just ask. Say “no straw please” and tell them to just wrap that sandwich and go without the Styrofoam and plastic bag.

4. Cool it on the AC. Electricity here comes from coal freighted in from the States, an expensive process. Our trade winds are free. Ask yourself - do you really need that air conditioner on? And always remember to turn it off when you leave for hours at a time. Along with saving electricity and money there are health benefits. When left on all day AC compressors drip pools of water around your house. Mosquitos can breed in these pools of water and will eventually find you!

6. Form your very own beach clean-up crew. Keep a few of those plastic bags handy and pick up a handful of trash that ends up on our shores. Cleanups are a great family activity and make a huge difference on our beaches, and a great value to instill in your children - before you leave, pick up!

SANTA MARIA Pass German Rieckehoff High School in Santa María and drive straight ahead. Pass the baseball park on left and drive straight ahead to a little plaza on the right. Wooden bins are just past the plaza.

ESPERANZA Located at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust is across from the Malecon and next to Duffy’s Restaurant. The recycling containers are in front yard.

7. Buy local. Ask for local produce stands and opt for the small bananas and mottled oranges or grapefruit, not the perfect ones shipped in from

stateside. It costs half as much and the fruit tastes so much better! Same for the long, lighter and mild green peppers. Support local farms as you reduce the pollution of unnecessary shipping materials. 8. Choose cans over bottles. Glass isn’t recyclable here. 9. Yep... it’s on the list again. It’s that important to our little island. 10. Share the love. When you go home tell people about Vieques’ natural beauty and that you were a part of the effort to maintain it. Thanks!

BARRIO FLORIDA Driving west on 200 toward the airport, take a left onto 201. Take the first right into the AAA Office. The recycling containers are at the end on the left. For customers of the farmers market on Tues., Wed. and Fri., this very convenient recycling location is only 200 yards away from the market!

Helen Davis broker / owner lic. #11424

Se habla Español

Island Real Estate Well maintained home with that wow factor. Exceptional sweeping 180 degree views to Puerto Rico, Culebra and even the Virgin Islands from this spacious Bravos de Boston Villa. Very large open floor plan living area and improved kitchen, with adjoining balcony overlooking the ocean. Two large bedrooms and baths. Good sized laundry/storage room, with an additional room, more storage, and a covered carport below. The 1,000 square meter lot allows for expansion or the addition of a pool. Sold furnished. Titled. Price Reduced! $412,000 Amazing possibilities for this structurally sound fixer-upper with one of the best views in Bravos de Boston. Two bedrooms, 2 baths in an open floor plan upstairs, and a small efficiency downstairs. Balconies overlooking the ocean on both floors, plus a roof-top deck with breathtaking views of Puerto Rico and the sunset. Swimming pool needs to be finished as do the terraces and gardens and roof top access. Private gate and covered secure parking. Lots of storage. Untitled. Needs lots of TLC but worth the effort! $385,000 Large move-in ready two family home overlooking the fort in Mambiche. Main living area has 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, a balcony, air conditioning, and a nice kitchen with new appliances and lots of cupboards. The downstairs is a one bedroom one bath open floor plan apartment that could generate extra income. Storage room, laundry, and gated 2-car garage. Sweet shade garden with veranda. All new very pretty furnishings included. No work required, but build stairs to the roof for a view of the sunset, the ocean and Puerto Rico! Titled. $325,000 Spectacular Bravos Beachfront Watch sea turtles, dolphins, rays and even whales from your perch on this perfect all concrete dream of a beach house overlooking La Lanchita Beach. This two level home features an open floor plan kitchen, dining & family room leading to a spacious balcony on the main floor. Downstairs, find 3 bedrooms and 2 baths. The hallway is partially open to a rainforest landscape, and leads to a small beachfront pool. 407.5 sq. mts. Offered furnished. Fully titled. $799,000

phone 787.741.7001 cell 787.458.7997 fax 787-741-1497 www.islandrealestate.net 575 German Rieckehoff Vieques, PR 00765

Trade Winds on THE MaLECon in ESPERanza

s o d ev ni

Serving spectacular views with fine food since 1984

ien

KKKKK

Lobster Special nightly KKKKK

Relax and Enjoy

With The Best View Of The Caribbean Sea HAPPY HOUR drink specials 5 to 6:30

GREAT FOOD! GREAT PEOPLE! GREAT PLACE!

Dinner

Choice Tenderloin Filet Fresh Fish and Seafood Vegetarian Entrees Seafood Gala on Wednesdays Paella on Sundays EVERY NIGHT 5:30 - 9:30

Breakfast/ lunch

Lobster Benedict “Mary and The Boys” Salads Galore Huevos Rancheros Fish & Chips BREAKFAST 7:30-11:30 LUNCH 11:30-2:00

seaside Guest house & Gift shop Great location • Walk to the beach $90 - $115 double a/c • breakfast included Gift shop open every day at 9am

CHECK oUT oUR MEnU anD SPECiaLS aT:

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787.741.8666

aLWaYS CHiLDREn FRiEnDLY tradewindsvieques@gmail.com 17

DANIEL RYAN

VISITOR’S POINT OF VIEW

We’re New Yorkers, but technically, we’re Brooklynites. Our neighborhood, Fort Greene, is one of the greenest urban spaces in the world. It constantly smells of fresh flowers and one can usually hear children playing nearby. It has its own feel, as does Brooklyn in general. As we all know, the energy of the city is constant. When that’s a good thing, it is life-giving, youthful and electrifying. When it’s not, it can be burdensome and exhausting. This must have been why, as I looked out to the endless horizon of the Caribbean Sea from miles of white sand and surf, that I felt a tinge of confusion. I had to adjust what I thought was possible now to allow for “... I can a different feel, one of a new beauty and a new peace. sense the The feeling was of being given an unexpected gift that exchange of the no amount of thanks or response could compensate. My city for the sea girlfriend, Sarah, had already been to the island once and had brought me here, so the thanks on a molecular belonged to her. The clear blue water was clearer and bluer than it had been in my dreams. I level.” was being charmed not only by Playa Grande and Vieques, but by Puerto Rico itself. As our time on the beach that day wore on, my initial confusion transformed into relaxation, with the certainty that we would return. (The next year we would introduce Vieques and Playa Grande to friends.) On the island, I swear I can sense the exchange of the city for the sea on a molecular level. With every exhalation I expel cinder, concrete and dust while inhaling flora, fauna and moist, salty air, my body subconsciously collecting these particles like a chipmunk hoarding nuts in preparation for winter. Each time I visit Vieques and leave again I am compelled to equate certain environments with stages of my life. The city represents youthful ambitions, late nights, partying and self-discovery in all its best and worst ways. And Vieques represents a true sense of self, release from tension, and rest. It is a kind of paradise, but it is even better because it is real. The concept of “island time” is particularly notable to me as a New Yorker. In the city, we live and work in a cultural narrative slavishly attached to itineraries, meetings, schedules and (as if it were possible) staying young. A city slicker looks at island time and scoffs. Meanwhile, on the island I notice that everything gets done and no one is stressed. As we all move together about the planet I take with me island time. I use it in the city. I turn it on with friends, during my commute and sometimes at work. I prefer it in every way to the time of New York City. Though I love the city, its version of time –the strict adherance to schedules and the rushed daily routine – can be draining. By using island time combined with the energy and resources of the city, everything gets done and no one is stressed. It is almost Buddhist-like in its implicit suggestion of, “Hey, what’s the rush? We’ve got eternity here.” BY DANIEL RYAN

It must have been on Playa Grande that I felt it, as my girlfriend and I stepped onto the sand without another soul in sight; a calm that is simultaneously full and empty that the city simply will not allow.

Daniel Ryan lives in Brooklyn and maintains private practice in New York City as a hypnotherapist. He specializes in past life regression and enjoys guiding experiences in meditation, relaxation and trance with individuals and groups all over the world. For years he and his girlfriend have been visiting Vieques seeking respite from city life. 18

FEBRUARY 2015

tech tip

MARCH 2015

to the moon! Moon Calendar App

Easily check what night the moon is full with this app.

getting here

FLIGHT OR FERRY?

ww w.v i

vel s.tra ue eq

s Isl

and

Fly from San Juan International (SJU) to VQS 30 minute flight, starting at $109 one way

www.capeair.com www.viequesairlink.com www.airsunshine.com

Travel uid e to G

www.vieques.travel Vieques travel information guide, events & news.

facebook.com/viequestravel Over 39,900 fans on facebook.

Un comienzo feliz para tus vacaciones en Vieques.

Fly from Isla Grande Airport (SIG) to VQS • 17 minute flight, 10 minute cab ride from SJU-aprox. $20 trip (not per person) Airfare starting at $72 one way www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com

Fly from Ceiba Airport (RVR) to VQS • 7 minute flight Aprox 1hr cab ride from San Juan to Ceiba $100 trip (not per person) plus airfare starting at $34 one way / 7 minute flight Note: Publico Vans are located right outside baggage claim at SJU and can seat up to 10-12 people. www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com

San Juan International (SJU) to Fajardo Ferry to Vieques 1 hour cab ride + 1.5 hour ferry ride 1 hour cab ride to Fajardo ferry port $100 (aprox) • Ferry ticket $2 Vans can seat up to 10 people. Cost is per trip, not per person. [ Be prepared to wait or possibly be bumped if ferry is full! Vieques residents are seated first. It is not uncommon for the ferry to be late]

SOME AIRLINES CHARGE $1 PER POUND FOR LUGGAGE OVER 25 POUNDS

TAKE A SWEATER ON THE FERRY!

IT’S COLDER THAN NY IN DEC. WELL, ALMOST

St. Thomas

.. Mayaguez San Juan

Virgin Gorda Tortola

Culebra Vieques

Anguilla St. Croix

Nevis

Vuela con la aerolínea que te ofrece servicio frecuente y continuo a Vieques desde San Juan o St. Croix.

Tus alas en el Caribe.

capeair.com 20

800-CAPE-AIR

tech tip

FERRY SCHEDULE Fajardo to Vieques 4:00 am (only Mon-Fri) 9:00 am 1:00 pm 4:45 pm 8:15 pm Vieques to Fajardo 6:00 am 6:30 am (only Fri, Sat & Sun) 11:00 am 3:00 pm 6:30 pm Schedule subject to change. Non-residents can be bumped if ferry is full.

MARINE TRAFFIC APP

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Convenient online booking! Vehicles for all price ranges.

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www.maritzascarrental.com Courtesy Van Service

getting around

no estacionar = no parking yellow painted curbs = no parking A Twist or a Tap If your car wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t start when leaving the beach, before panicking, first check your battery cable connections. On rough roads they tend to bounce and loosen. Tighten them up or give them a tap and try again!

Largest, Newest fleet on the island 2015 Jeeps (four door and two door) Locally owned and operated Durangos offered for large groups

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(787) 741-2134 22

Kayak Trips Bioluminescent Bay Snorkeling Trips & Equipment Rental Info for rates & hours

Alejandro (787) 349-6964 DRNA License & Insurance

ON THE WATER

life’s a trip

WITH CAPT. TOM K

AS YOU SIT ON THE BEAUTIFUL BEACHES OF VIEQUES, LOOKING OUT OVER THE WATER WHILE PONDERING LIFE, ONE THING IS CERTAIN; THE VIEW IS GORGEOUS. THAT BEING SAID, I SUGGEST TRYING ANOTHER VIEW, THE ONE FROM THE WATER. Along with our stunning beaches visitors to Vieques experience the diversity of our restaurants and enjoy the local culture, but more often than not, miss a unique perspective of our island. Once the decision is made to step from solid ground there are a myriad of opportunities available to get out on the water - and ways to enjoy it. Be active, be pampered or kick back and marvel at the life and color under the waves.

E.P. ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: WEDDINGSINVIEQUES.COM

LITTLE BOAT SAILING

CARIBBEAN LADY SAILING

JAK WATER SPORTS

The Bioluminescent Bay. On the south shoreline of Vieques lies the most active of all the Bio-bays worldwide. Containing approximately 750,000 dinoflagellates per gallon, the light display of these microorganisms is spectacular. To access the Bio Bay take a tour. Choose a kayak, pontoon boat or paddleboat. These fun and informative tours are run by experienced Captains and guides for your safety and the protection of the Bay. Speaking of which, a well-deserved Thank You to the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust and all the volunteer groups and government agencies that oversee the Bio Bay and keep it pristine. Kayaking. Enjoy a scenic excursion for two along the shoreline or a family fun paddle to the mangroves. There are many tours offered to peak your interest, or you can rent and strike out on your own.

Snorkeling. There are plenty of snorkeling opportunities on Vieques. You can take a tour or rent equipment and go searching the shoreline with a friend. For the best snorkeling a tour is the way to go. The guides are familiar with the reefs and the tours are inexpensive. Sailing. Vieques enjoys the consistent breezes brought by the trade winds. Sailing the waters of Vieques is popular, easily accessible and an exciting adventure. A short trip off the North Coast to Cayo Blanco will put you on one of the top ten reefs in the Caribbean. Alive with fish and coral this reef is a must see for avid snorkelers. On the Southside, the Port of Esperanza offers a convenient access to the Southern Shoreline. The water is clear, the reefs are full of life and the sailing is exhilarating. There are a number of sailboats that offer charters.

Powerboats. If sailing isn’t your cup of tea but you want to get out on the water there are powerboat charters. Power catamaran trips offer gourmet food, kayaking, snorkeling and paddleboarding in beautiful secluded waters. Combination Charters. Have a large group? No problem. Captains on the south shore have joined forces offering a unique opportunity. Enjoy both sailing and the comfort of a powerboat on the same tour. Power out, sail back. Amazing. Paddleboarding. This sport has been popular in the Caribbean for years. Paddleboarding very quickly. With a little instruction you will be gliding across the water on your first try. Lessons and tours are inexpensive.

Scuba Diving. Want to explore the underwater reefs and incredible marine life? Vieques has dive companies that offer top of the line equipment and experienced, certified guides who place an emphasis on safety. The dive sites are varied and impressive. Jet Skiing. Feel the need for speed? You got it! Rentals are available in Esperanza. Enjoy the freedom of these Harleyson-water responsibly. Please use extreme caution around other watercraft, snorkelers and our fragile reefs. And stay in designated areas. Surfing. Looking to hang 10? Surfing tours and lessons are available on our island. The winter swells create consistent sets suitable for both the beginner and the experienced surfer.

ABE’S SNORKELING AND BIO BAY TOURS

SURFSUP VIEQUES

PHOTO BY JEN TEETER

ISLA NEÑA SCUBA

JAK WATER SPORTS

VIEQUES CLASSIC CHARTERS

Whichever activities you pursue, you will discover a fresh appreciation for the beautiful island of Vieques and its surrounding wealth of stunning blue water. Be aware that operators conducting any kind of water sports of activity MUST have proper licensing, permits from respective agencies and insurance. Have a terrific time on the island and consider a view of Vieques from On The Water.

ABE’S SNORKELING & BIOBAY • 787-741-2134 AHOY VIEQUES • 939-332-5778 BLACKBEARD SPORTS • 787-741-1892 CARIBBEAN LADY • 787-930-5610 / 5611 FIN TIME ADVENTURES • 787-981-4109 FUN BROTHERS • 787-435-9372 ISLA NENA SCUBA • 787-718-7607 JAK WATER SPORTS • 787-644-7112 LITTLEBOAT SAILING • 787.366.5202

O Captain! my Captain! our fearful trip is done, The ship has weather’d every rack, the prize we sought is won, The port is near, the bells I hear, the people all exulting, While follow eyes the steady keel, the vessel grim and daring;

PLAYA VOLTIOS • 787-741-7873 SUP STANDUP PADDLE • 787-232-6906

But O heart! heart! heart!

TAINO AQUA ADVENTURES • 787-349-6964

Excerpt from the poem O Captain! My Captain! By Walt Whitman.

VIEQUES CLASSIC CHARTER • 787-467-3447 VIEQUES ISLAND POWERCAT • 787-980-9978 VIEQUES PADDLEBOARDING • 787-366.5202

FREEDIVING

Meet Carlitos Miro People find peacefulness in many places; on a beach, in a church or a forest, or alone in a quiet room. Thirty-year old Carlitos Miró from Trujillo Alto found it in Thailand. Well, actually under the water around Thailand. He tried freediving and fell in love with it. A PADI certified scuba diving instructor, Carlitos has always been comfortable below the surface of the water, but freediving is another whole place. He says it is very much like meditation. It is “automatic happiness” to be in the water. At a meditation retreat Carlitos spent the 12 days in silence eating two vegetarian meals a day. After the first six grueling days he trained his mind to focus, creating an awareness that led him to a sense of peace and euphoria. It was that state of mind that took him deep into an understanding of his physical and mental capacities, and 100 feet down into the ocean. Meditation breathing techniques taught him to expand and contract his diaphragm, helping him to gain an understanding of his limits underwater. “It is very safe because you never dive alone. Only if you get greedy and push beyond your body’s limits is it really dangerous.” Carlitos has traveled to Malaysia, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Burma, Singapore and the Bahamas in pursuit of his diving passion. “It is a big world out there and I want to see it,” he says with a calm smile. In July of last year, Carlitos traveled to the Bahamas and had the unique opportunity to train with world champion freediver, William Trubridge, who holds the world free diving record of 101 meters (336 ft.). Carlitos dove to a depth of 35 meters (115 ft.). When asked if he has an interest in other sports he thinks for a moment, then says, “Oh yeah, I also am a certified sky diver.” With forty-two jumps under his belt he jokingly says, “I guess I’m just clumsy on land.” Last September PADI awarded Carlitos the worldwide recognized honor of scuba education instructor of the month for his work training a handicapped woman to scuba. Here on Vieques Carlitos works with Isla Nena Scuba as a dive instructor and safety diver. 25

Banana Wind Bravos House Cane Garden Casa anGular Casa Carleton Casa limones Casa vaCa Paraiso Quinta JaBali villa verde

Safety Tips Many visitors think that Vieques is a sleepy, laid back island where you can lay in your hammock on the beach without a care in the world. For the most part, this is true. But petty theft is everywhere and your vacation can end badly without some precaution and common sense. Follow some safety tips and always be aware of your surroundings and belongings. ALWAYS lock the doors where you are staying. Period. First floor, second floor, every door. NEVER leave valuables unattended.

ARQUITECTO STANLEY HUTCHINSON 787.556.5537

stanleyc.hutchinson@gmail.com 45 Years Licensed Architect

DON’T take valuables to the beach.

DON’T leave a cell phone or iPad charging next to an open window. Never leave house keys next to a window. USE COMMON SENSE when walking around at night. Never walk on the beaches alone after dark.

DON’T lock your car at the beach. Leave it open with nothing in it.

GRACE COOK

PR License: 14438

well that’s just swell!

SW E L L I N FO A P P Get the surf report and surf forecast for seven days with this app.

tech tip

BIO BAY WATCH

BioBay Preservation A World Class Welcome and Improved Monitoring BY LIRIO MARQUEZ

A water quality monitoring station maintained by VCHT has been in place for over two years. It measures standard water quality parameters: temperature, pH, dissolved oxygen, salinity and turbidity. A new, water quality, “real-time” station was just installed. This new station adds other water-quality parameters such as chlorophyll, as well as tidal and weather information. It transmits in real time and provides historical and current information through this link: http://waterdata.usgs.gov/pr/nwis/ uv/?site_no=50231500&PARAmeter_ cd=00400,00095,00010

KARL ALEXANDER

s most visitors and residents know, Vieques possesses an amazing jewel of nature – a bioluminescent bay. Nature has once again chosen to display its power and brilliance and, to the joy of all, has bequeathed it to our little place in the sun. A tremendous amount of effort is constantly being expended to protect the Bioluminescent Bay for the benefit of all, led by the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (VCHT). The VCHT has been carrying out a multi-component erosion and sedimentation control project aimed at reducing the impact of runoff. These are just a few pieces of the project. n

Erosion and sedimentation control measures have been implemented on the road from Sun Bay to the Bio Bay through the use of BMPs (Better Management Practices) including lowcost high-efficiency green infrastructure, check dams, bio-swales, rain gardens, vegetated sediment traps, reforestation with native species and permeable pavement. In the process of taking these steps, visitor, user and tour provider access to the Bay has been substantially improved. Parking areas, vehicular and pedestrian traffic organization, wheelchair access from the parking area to the shore, and, soon to come, interpretive signage are just some of the improvements. To

Mark Martin Bras points out Jupiter on his way to the Bioluminescent Bay. The glow-in-the-dark pebbles that line the walkway to the Bio Bay are made from a unique material that requires no electricity or power, just sunlight to charge them. This chemically and biologically inert, eco-friendly resin is safe for human, animal and plant life, and will last approximately 20 years. These pebbles provide a safe nighttime glow to light the pathway to the bay, they are also the best introduction to the beauty that awaits at trail’s end.

polish the jewel just a tad brighter, an extraordinary, phosphorescent pedestrian walkway for nighttime visitors has added a world-class and safe welcome to the Bay. Total cost of this project is over a half million dollars, with the Environmental Protection Agency, the Department of Natural and Environmental Resources, VCHT, the Puerto Rico Environmental Quality Board, the U.S. Geological Survey, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service and the Municipality of Vieques collectively providing financial and in-kind support. Additionally, the erosion control measures

and improved access were designed by engineer David Aponte and built by Protectores de Cuencas, a Puerto Rican non-profit organization that specializes in watershed protection. The project has also brought income to the local economy through local employment and the acquisition of goods and services. You too are part of these efforts in how you treat and enjoy the Puerto Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay. It is nature at its finest. Help us preserve it for now and the future.

.HATS.

Vieques Classic Charter viequesclassiccharter.com

Sail on a historical, 1941 Philip Rhodes design, wooden yacht through crystal turquoise water.

787-467-3447

Calle Benitez Guzman#58 Isabel II Located across from mr. sushi

Open M-F 9:30-5pm Sat-3pm

The print shop of Vieques La imprenta de Vieques Your #1 Vieques outdoor sports outfitter Join one of our Eco-Trips Now in Ceiba

BioBay - Biking - Snorkel - Hiking Diving - Kayak - SUP - Charters Call us for information on seasonal fishing, sailing and excursions

787-741-1892 www.blackbeardsports.com Retail - Rental - Trips - Internet Located next to the Post Office in Isabel II, at the W Retreat, and Ceiba Do your research before getting to the beach. Information on the best spots and how to get there.

Publisher

aLL yoUr priNtiNg Needs: business cards bumper stickers flyers brochures postcards menus signs

of Fin

de Semana

Vieques Community News

787-741-2856 787-384-2272 rbonanov@gmail.com

Ubicada en la carretera 201 al frente de la Ferretería Nales. Located on Highway 201 in front of Ferretería Nales.

www.WheresTheBeachVieques.com

NAMES, IDENTITY, AND HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE

tech tip

During the time of the U.S. Navy occupation of Vieques the beaches were renamed based on colored flags placed on them for training exercises. Set in motion by elders and community leaders from Vieques the effort is underway to reclaim the former names of the beaches and restore their cultural significance and longevity. Internet sites and publications still use the Navy names of beaches and you will hear many islanders still using the English names as well. But while you are here, please paint the mental map in your mind with the original Spanish names. The English names are listed on the right for your reference to the pull out map on the inside back cover. Thank you for participating in this milestone effort by honoring and using the original Spanish names of the beautiful beaches of Vieques.

HISTORICAL NAMES Former U.S. Navy Names SKY GUIDE APP

CARACAS Red Beach

LA CHIVA Blue Beach

CAMPAÑA Purple Beach

PLAYUELA Garcia Beach

LA PLATA Orchid Beach

MATIAS Yellow Beach

PATA PRIETA Secret Beach

PUNTA ARENAS Green Beach

Vieques Night Sky

A star and constellation guide is a nice thing to have when you are strolling on the Malecon or on the Bio Bay. Hold it to the sky to automatically locate stars, constellations, planets, and satellites. Great fun for kids!

River Photography River Karmen

riverkarmen@aol.com www.riverphotovieques.com

787.556.9030

As featured in Islands Magazine 2013 and 2014.

Come walk on water with SurfSUP paddle board tours. Call 787-232-6906 and book your tour today. Sunset tours available too. Prices are $50 per person. Includes lesson. Discounts available for Vieques residents and repeat customers.

The FRESHEST place on the rock! Smokehouse • Oysters • Artisan Draft Beer OPEN OPEN Tues-Sat Tues-Sat 5-10PM 5-10PM .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 787-741-7700 HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR At intersection of 201 & 996 4-6PM 4-6PM •• $2 $2 TACOS TACOS Reservations party of 5 or more .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. SUNDAY SUNDAY BRUNCH BRUNCH 11-3PM 11-3PM

Locations Look for our truck and Happy Flag!

Friday – Sunday • Isabel Segunda • 4–10pm Saturday – Sunday • Esperanza • 11am-4pm

your personal cuisine by Waldo

The most delicious seafood paella - up to 8 ingredients, ribs, kebobs, paellas at the beach or your villa, to a romantic dinner for two at sunset or your wedding in Vieques...anything!

yourpersonalcuisine.com

787-487-4244

Monday through Friday 5:30-9:30

Bar Bar & & Grill Grill

Enjoy Enjoy Outdoor Outdoor Dining Dining & & Spectacular Spectacular Caribbean Caribbean Sunsets Sunsets at at the the laid laid back back end end of of the the Malecon Malecon

Fine dining on the malecon, esperanza

Open Every Day! ..................... .....................

Belly Belly Warming Warming Breakfasts Breakfasts 9am 9am -- 11am 11am

..................... .....................

Belly Belly Busting Busting lunches lunches 11am 11am -- 3pm 3pm Enjoy Enjoy Breakfast Breakfast & & Order Order Your Your Beach Beach Lunch Lunch to to Go! Go!

Wednesday - Sunday ..................... .....................

Belly Belly Busting Busting Dinners Dinners 5pm 5pm -- 9pm 9pm W/Feature W/Feature Menus Menus Including Including BBQ BBQ Night Night

Best sandwiches ! on the malecon

hanD hanD DippeD DippeD ice ice cream cream

Monday - Saturday 5:30 to close reservations@elquenepovieques.com

787.741.1215

AguAcate presents

Sunday & Monday nightS Oceanfront dining at Hector’s by the Sea Mediterranean & Middle Eastern Cooking examples from our menu:

OutstanDing OutstanDing Ocean Ocean VieWs VieWs

weD. paella night 6pm - 8:30pm Reservations Encouraged

college/pro Football & other sporting events on the belly Up bar Deck

787.741.3336

wi-fi

www.bellybuttonsvieques.com on the malecon, esperanza

Visa/MC/DisCoVer

Bar & liquor wine Liquor beer Store cool

Open everyday 12 noon to sometime after midnight Abierto desde el mediodia hasta algun momento despues de la media noche todos los dias

the place where the

locals

Grilled marinated octopus with charred lemon-basil vinaigrette Sautéed shrimp with parsley, walnuts and lemon on salt cod mashed Lamb Kofta with tzatziki and feta Sunset Happy Hour w/ complimentary bar snacks 5-6:30 On the water, behind and to the right of Hacienda Tamarindo!

EL S o m brero Viejo

BESt PricES

AkA “kuhnS”

thurSday nightS

200 vinos

A sumptuous 6 course prix fixe in a lovely hilltop Hix designed villa w/ 360 ocean views. $65-

wines

Limited seating, reservations only, see this week’s menu on Facebook:

AguAcate

Full Service catering Since 2005 Creative and stylish menus for any event

www.aguacatecatering.com

787-615-2320

MEjOrES PrEciOS

cigars

Behind the Post Offiice Isabel II Detras del correo en Isabel II 31

Did You Know?

Vieques in Mainstream Cinema Along with all the culture, great food and fun activities you’ll find here there’s something else you should know. Vieques is not just another pretty face. Isla Nena has some film chops as well. Here are a couple of her more well known, English language performances. .................................

FORTIN CONDE DE MIRASOL

Museum, bookstore, and home to Vieques artifacts. Wed – Sun • 8am - 4:20pm 787.741.1717

road rules Blind curves and narrow roads. On Vieques there are many roads that are narrow. When approaching another car go slow and give right of way. Honk your horn on blind corners or hills to let people know you are there before they can see you. Where to park. In Isabel II, the curbs are painted white, yellow, or blue. White (or no paint) is for parking, yellow is no parking, and blue is handicapped parking. Speed limits. Adhere to the speed limits on the island - you will get a ticket for speeding to the beaches. In some areas of the Fish and Wildlife Refuge the limit goes down to 5 mph so pay close attention to the signs. Sunbay is another area to go very slow – the speed limit is 10mph. There are many children playing in the sand and it is difficult for them to tell where the beach stops and the road begins. Go slow and wear your seatbelt. And never park on the beach side of the road.

IF THIS WAS YOUR AD...

EVERYONE WOULD BE READING IT RIGHT NOW. IT’S EASY TO ADVERTISE WITH US.

WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM CHEO (ESPAÑOL) 787.556.9874

KELLY 787.435.3172 32

LORD OF THE FLIES

A 1963 British film adaptation of William Golding’s fifties novel of the same name. Peter Brook, famous for his direction of and collaboration with Britain’s Royal Shakespeare Company, directed the movie. A group of British schoolboys at risk from war are evacuated by plane from England. Their airliner is shot down and lands in the water near a remote island – played convincingly by our own Vieques! The boys are without adult supervision and basically “go native”, dividing into warring factions and tribes living in the jungles and on the beaches of unnamed Vieques. It is an absolutely riveting movie. In 1996 the BBC created a documentary (it aired in the States on PBS) about the making of Lord of the Flies. Titled Time Flies, it reunited the main cast and crew on the beaches of our Isla Nena where it was filmed. One engaging scene grouped the cast on the traffic triangle in front of La Tienda Verde (The Green Store) in Esperanza, pointing out the pineapple farm that was once there, their former camp ground during the original shoot. Look for the full story about the making of this film in the next issue of Vieques Insider.

................................. HEARTBREAK RIDGE

Clint Eastwood directed, produced and starred in this portrayal of a crusty Marine Gunnery Sargeant nearing retirement. Released in 1986, the movie uses humor to balance Eastwood’s snarling, raspy attempts to train and toughen a soft group of boot camp recruits. Final scenes put the whipped-into-shape soldiers in Grenada tasked with taking a hilltop position. Enter Vieques and El Fortin Conde de Mirasol, the last Spanish-built fort in the Americas (1845). Sitting high above the town of Isabel Segunda, the Fort and surrounding grounds have been restored over the years. Offering important historical exhibits, exceptional views, a gift shop chock full of books and a great site for cultural events and concerts, the Fort is a must stop for any island visitor. Note the stone wall scaled by Eastwood and the soldiers as they take “the hill” near the end of the movie.

FACES OF VQS

barbara {ita}

flavio

BY: TOM O’GRADY, JR.

BA RBARA BAKER BERNACHE

FLAVIO FELICIANO SILVA

When you meet Barbara, “Barbarita” to her island friends, you see a slight, fragile wisp of a woman who flows like the airy caftans she wears. Look closer and the tanned, lined face smiles warmly back at you, as interested in you as you are in her. Born on the 4th of July eighty five years ago Barbarita lives in the present, keenly respectful of the ticking clock but unfettered by it. Teacher, painter, pianist, writer and ardent student of marine biology her present consists of Vieques and Virginia. Drawn to the island in the early seventies by its beauty and her interest in the Bioluminescent Bay, part of her marine biology studies, she is still active in tending to the Bay’s health, still making trips with Mark Martin, a Director at the Vieques Conservation and Historic Trust, an organization she helped grow as a Board member. As if scrambling around the bay isn’t enough of a challenge she blithely drops another mission in the works; writing a history of bioluminescence. “I want to do that before I croak,” she says matter-of-factly. Most of her island social group of the last forty years has disappeared, but when prodded to talk about the past and how she and the island have changed she speaks without the nostalgia or sadness of many her age, remembering the past with pleasure. “I used to love a beer at eleven in the morning, but no more. Water and Boost,” she says with a mischievous tone, clearly aware of the irony. As she rises from the settee on her veranda, her gaze slides instinctively across the island to the view of her beloved Bay. Another busy season is at hand and her work is not finished.

Flavio is a young man of many faces. Serious, playful, focused, smiling; not unusual for a sixteen-year-old. But one particular face tells the story, the one that looks away from you and sees…something; not unusual for a musician. Playing music takes you places. The notes travel from mind to fingers to sound, the sound returning to the ear, evoking images and thoughts and, ultimately, expression. Flavio plays guitar, steel drums, percussion drums and piano, multiple routes to the same destination - expression. His love of music began watching his uncle Manolín Silva play the drums at age 6. Uncle Fernando Silva, director of the Municipal Band of Vieques, was also very influential in Flavio’s development. At age 8 Flavio was accepted into the Band under the direction of Ruben Bonano, another of his mentors. The commitment to the music has brought him many local performances and taken him to New York and Washington. This year it will take him to Colombia and Peru as a member of the Vieques Rondalla, a program of the Vieques Concert Society. When we talk of travel another expression comes across his boyish, friendly face and his eyes move past me, the image of notes to be played in places not yet seen somewhere in his mind. It’s an expression of delight. I ask him if he would like to travel more with his music. The practical musician says he’s thought of it and likes the idea but it is not so easy. I can tell from his ever-changing face that his thought is a musical piece being composed as we speak. I ask him what he thinks of the world and his response is immediate. “Tienes que ir. Tienes que verlo.” “You have to go. You have to see it.” 33

PLAY DATES

SUNDAY FUNDAY JR. Parents & Kids & Playful Adults Meet & Greet @ Sunbay 12-4

TUESDAY PLAY DAY IN THE PARK Parents & Kids & Playful Adults @ Esperanza Playground 3-5pm

hermit crabs

For the kid in all of us.

BY SCOTT D. APPELL

One of the most charming creatures on Vieques is the Caribbean hermit crab, Coenobita clypeatus, also known as the soldier crab, the West Atlantic crab and the tree crab. It is a species of land crab native to the Caribbean, South America and the West Indies. Adults burrow and hide under the roots of large trees, and can be found scuttling about considerable distances inland, especially in early evening or morning. On Vieques, hermit crabs have been found on the highest peaks of the island, ready for the long scuttle back to the sea to lay their eggs.

just for fun! WaveRunner Actually skips and bounces on water! Available at Vieques Gifts on the Malecón in Esperanza

DO YOU HAVE GREAT PHOTOS OF VIEQUES?

SHARE YOUR SHOTS! FUN. WA C K Y. W E T. S I L LY. S E X Y. S P O N T A N E O U S . E D U C AT I O N A L . WHIMSICAL . BE AUTIFUL . MEANINGFUL. C O O L . C R E AT I V E . COLORFUL.

PUBLISH THEM IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF VIEQUES INSIDER WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM

787.435.3172 34

These animals do lead solitary lives; seeking each other out only to mate – hence the hermit designation. ........................... Female land hermit crabs release fertilized eggs into the ocean, taking great care not to get carried off by the surf. They cannot swim or breathe underwater as their aquatic cousins can. This spawning (called “washing” in the English-speaking Caribbean) occurs on certain nights of the brightest moon, usually around August.

To protect themselves they move into empty shells of marine mollusks, shifting to new, abandoned shells as they grow. If no shell is available, the crab must procure alternative materials. (I remember seeing a bright red plastic spray can lid scurrying through the lawn one evening only to discover it was home to a fairsized hermit crab. I wanted to paint racing-stripes on the lid to complete the effect.) ........................... Although hermit crabs are edible they are often captured for use as fish bait.

Caribbean hermit crabs are both herbivorous and detritivorous, feeding on animal and plant remains. ........................... Hermit crabs are more closely related to lobsters than to other crabs. ........................... During the change in shell size multiple hermit crabs have been observed moving in and out of shells previously inhabited by other hermit crabs, a social structure known as a vacancy chain.

insider tip Across the street from Belly Buttons there are steps that lead down to the beach. Walk down these steps and look around the roots of the palm trees. You are sure to see baby hermit crabs skittering about.

THOSE CRAZY KIDS

Oh, the Places You could Go!

The US Fish and Wildlife Service Office at the entrance of Garcia Gate has many displays and programs for children to learn about wildlife and local conservation efforts.

The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust has a marine life exhibit to teach children about the fragility of the coral reef habitat of Vieques.

At the Incubadora Office in Isabel II there is a small children’s library as well as a book exchange for adults. Computers, copy machines, Fax are available for a donation. M-F 9am-4pm but hours vary.

Sunbay has a campground, bathrooms and the Arenamar Café where you can get delicious healthy snacks for the beach. After the beach, give the youngsters a quick rinse before they fall asleep in the car on the way home.

The playground in Esperanza is open 8am-6pm Mon-Sat and 12-6pm on Sunday. There is a track that winds through the park under shade trees. Aprox. 15 times around makes a mile.

Fort Conde Mirasol overlooking Isabel Segunda is a museum and gallery for families searching for cultural activities. It is open to the public Wed.-Sun. 10am-4pm.

Parque la Ceiba is a wonderful place for kids to picnic, play and reconnect with nature. Pass the airport on 200 and keep going west. At the bend in the road the Ceiba tree is on the right.

There is a wonderful little “kiddie tidepool” on the beach in front of Tradewinds restaurant on the Malecón. Look for marine life in the tidepools, but be careful of the sea urchins!

There are many guided activities for children. Check with tour guides for age requirements for children. Snorkeling Sailing Horseback Riding Paddleboarding Kayaking Surfing Lessons

insider V IEQUES

P H O N E D I R EC TO RY

ACCOMMODATIONS

BIKE TOURS/RENTAL

HORSEBACK RIDING

Ababor Suites 787-435-2841 Acacia Guesthouse 787-741-1059 Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Bravo Beach Hotel (BBH) 787-741-1128 Casa de Amistad 787-741-3758 Casa de Kathy 787-565-2717 Casa La Lanchita 787-741-8449 Crow’s Nest 787-741-0033 El Blok 787-741-6020 Flamboyan Guesthouse 340-642-5882 787-741-9090 Hacienda Tamarindo 787-362-3324 787-741-8525 Hectors by the Sea 787-741-1178 Hix Island House 787-741-2302 La Finca Caribe 787-741-0495 Lazy Hostel 787-741-5555 Malecon House 787-741-0663 Sea Gate Hotel 787-741-4661 Hilltop Retreat Apartment 917-553-6595 Trade Winds 787-741-8666 Tropical Guest House 787-741-2449 Villa Coral 787-741-1967 W Vieques 787-741-4100 .................................. VACATION RENTAL HOUSES Bravos Beach Cottages 231-633-4076 Casa Angular 410-363-3284 Casa Colores 413-548-8053 Casa Vieques 909-894-6569 Cookies Paradise 305-975-2046 El Cerro 850-598-1415 Villa Uno 202-387-9812

BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Explore Vieques Bike Tours 939-258-2453 (Bike)

Esperanza Riding Sea Gate Hotel Taxi Horses

AIR CONDITIONING SERVICE

Dynamic Air Conditioning

787-364-1800

AIRLINES

Air Flamenco Air Sunshine Cape Air M&N Aviation Vieques Air Link

787-741-8811, 4121 888-879-8900 800-352-0714 787-791-7090 787-741-8331

ART GALLERIES

Ellie Harold 231-352-6213 Fuerte Conde Mirasol 787-741-1717 Gallery Galleon 787-741-3078 ReciclArte 787-433-0015 Sandra Reyes 787-988-9319 Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery 787-741-1343 Vieques Historical 787-741-8850 & Conservation Trust

Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay BlackBeard Sports Island Adventures JAK Water Sports Taino Aqua Adventures

CAR RENTAL

Avis Ceiba 787-885-0505 / VQS 787-741-0284 Chepito’s 787-649-2542 Enterprise (Puerto Rico) 787-860-6868 M-F 787-801-3722 Sat-Sun Fun Brothers (Scooters) 787-435-9372/741-0151 Island Car Rental 787-741-8822 Island Jeep Rental 787-741-3318 Maritza’s 787-741-0078 / airport 0700 Vieques Car Rental 787-741-1037

Aguacate Catering 787-615-2320 Arenamar 787-239-7771 Beverly Davenport-Chef 215-313-1241 Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Coqui Fire 787-741-0401 Don Tito’s Lechon 787-741-2898 Green Man Baked Goods 787-435-6822 Chef Eva Bolívar 787-402-0357 Your Personal Chef (Waldo) 787-487-4244 CONSTRUCTION

Architecto, Stanley Hutchinson 787-556-5537 Cardinal Contractors 939-639-0848 EDK Design Services 787-435-3548 M&M of Vieques 787-741-2577 Navarro Construction 787-741-2577 Paul Lutton, Arquitecto 787-477-7684 Vieques Locksmith 787-564-5120 ELECTRICIANS

EcoMan Dan 787-550-6700 Dynamic Air Conditioning 787-364-1800 High Quality Electrical Contractor 787-446-6063 EQUIPMENT RENTAL

Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 Playa Voltios 787-741-7873 EXTERMINATORS

Professional Exterminating

787-449-6950

FISHING CHARTERS

Fin Time Adventures

787-741-2134 787-741-1892 787-741-0720 787-644-7112 787-349-6964

Sweat Fitness W

787-435-0073 787-741-4661 787-206-0122

INSURANCE

Jose A Diaz Agosto

787-763-0011

JET SKI RENTAL

Fun Brothers

787-435-9372 / 741-0151

LIQUOR STORE

El Sombrero Viejo (Liquor)

787-741-2416

LANDSCAPING

CATERERS

787-981-4109

Anchor Landscaping Ean Egas Tree Removal Mow Joe

787-479-5801 518-506-1374 207-651-1213

LOCKSMITHS

Marc Weems Locksmith

787-564-5120

MASSAGE

Away Spa (W) 787-741-7021 Blue Hill Hand & Foot Reflexology and Massage 787-908-2552 Blue Hoku (Maureen) 787-556-5025 Susie Higgins Walker, 207.869.0925 Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman 787-435-1313 MEDICAL SERVICES / PHARMACIES

ASSMCA 787-741-4767 Behavioral Health Care 888-440-8787 Centro Quiropráctico 787-741-0414 Consejería Psicológica 787-547-9467 Dra- Daphne Torres (Dentista) 787-741-1916 Farmacia San Antonio 787-741-8397 Dr- Jose Figueroa 787-741-2222 Dra- Fanny Garraton (dentist) 787-741-8765 Dentist Juan R- Gonzalez 787-318-7376 Dr- Luis Rivera 787-741-0738

MUSEUMS

Forte Conde Mirasol Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust

787-741-1717 787-741-8850

PADDLEBOARDING

JAK Water Sports SUP StandUp Paddle Vieques Paddleboarding

787-644-7112 787-232-6906 787-366.5202

PET CARE & SERVICES

FITNESS

BIO BAY / NIGHT TOURS

787.435.3172 www.viequesinsider.com info@viequesinsider.com

787-741-4100

FLOWERS

Flores 202-276-8601

Pampered Pets Vieques Humane Society

787-741-0639 787-741-0209

PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO

E.P. Anderson Photography Jennifer Teeter River Photography Video Recording/Production

971.506.9406 787-469-3337 787-556-9030 413 237 9696

PUBLICOS/TAXIS/TOURS

SCUBA

Alba Melendez 787-206-0456 Alejito Bermúdez 939-261-7857 Ana Robles 787-514-9597 Angie Chauffeur 787-455-4596 Carlos & Denisse 787-447-8697 Edna Robles 787-630-4673 Henry 787-649-3838 Jose Morales 787-435-4277 Josue 787-249-6165 Juanito 787-645-2329 Julio 787-579-1141 Letty Perez/Kiany Tours 787.556.6003 Luis Gonzalez 787-435-3805 Sharron 787-944-4569 Vieques Taxi 787-741-TAXI 8294 Vieques Tours & Transportation 787-397-2048

BlackBeard Sports Isla Nena Scuba

PUBLICATIONS / MARKETING

Imprenta Adonai 787-741-2856 Vieques Insider Magazine 787.435.3172 Vieques.Travel 212-462-2900 REAL ESTATE

Bravos Boyz 787-741-1463 Guayacan Realty 787-565-0713/741-0414 Island Real Estate 787-741-7001 Rainbow Realty 787-741-4312 Sun Realty Vieques 787-467-5368 Vieques Fine Properties 787-741-3298 Vieques Realty & Rentals 787-741-0330 RESTAURANTS & BARS

Aguacate 787-615-2320 Arenamar Café 787-239-7771 Awesome Yogurt & Fruits 787-517-1061 Belly Buttons 787-741-3336 Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Biekes Bistro 787-741-6381 Bilí 787-741-1382 Carambola 787-741-3318 Chicken King & Ice Cream 787-741-5464 Conuco 787-741-2500 Coquí Fire 787-741-0401 Duffy’s Esperanza 787-741-7600 El Sombrero Viejo 787-741-2416 El Quenepo 787-741-1215 Izzy’s Bar & Grill 787-741-0720 José Enrique @ El Blok 787-741-6020 La Zafra 787-644-9325 Lazy Jacks 787-741-1447 Mamasonga 787-741-0103 Mar Azul 787-741-3400 Mr Sushi 787-741-2828 Next Course 787-741-1028 Noche 787-741-7700 Pescaderia/Fish Market 787-349-8660 Roys Internet Café 787-741-0685 Smokey’s BBQ & Grill 787-349-8839 Smoothie Girlz 787-435-1331 Sorcé W 787-741-7022 Taverna 787-438-1100 Tin Box 787-741-7700 Trade Winds 787-741-8666 W Café 787-741-7056 SAILING / CHARTERS

AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 LittleBoat Sailing 787.366.5202 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978

787-741-1892 787-718-7607

SERVICES

Alcoholics Anon 787-741-0639 Humane Society 787-741-0209 Baby Item Rentals 787-467-5368 Recycling 787-741-5000 x2351 The Property Caretakers 917-831-5096 Vieques Gas 787-741-2551 SHOPPING

BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Funky Beehive 787-741-3192 Luna Loca 843-271-1910 Malecon House Boutique 787-741-0663 MamaPlaya Himalaya 787-548-1010 Sol Creation 808-280-6223 Toda La Casa 787-236-7224 Trade Winds Gift Shop 787-741-8666 VCHT Gift Shop 787-741-8850 Playa Voltios 787-741-7873 Vieques Flowers and Gifts 787-741-4197 Vieques Bath & Botanica 917-573-4491 Woodstock 540-847-4824 SPA/SALON

W Retreat and Spa

S UR F I N G

Playa Voltios Vieques Surf School

787-741-7021 787-741-7873 787.692.8655

NON-PROFITS / ORGANIZATIONS

Boys & Girls Clubs of Puerto Rico 787-741-6006 787-402-2244 www.bgcpr.org

Caballos Bieke, Inc. 434-984-5491 Corefi 787-741-2076 787-433-0413 www.viequesinneed.org Incubadora, 787-206-0602, incubadora.bieke@cprdv.org, Juntos 787-556-9030, www.juntosvieques.org Navy League 352-275-7397, nlusgerardo@aol.com Radio Vieques, 90.1 FM 787-206-0602, www.radiovieques.net Reach For Success 787-243-1352 cpweir@gmail.com,

TOWING

ReciclArte, 787-433-0015, pcuyar@reciclartepr.org

TRANSPORT

Rotary Club of Vieques, 787-556-9030, RotaryVieques.com,

Freddie 787-608-9914

Island Delivery (Aurelio)

787-238-9108

WEDDING PLANNERS

MarryMe Vieques Weddings in Vieques

202-276-8601 787-741-8000

YOGA

Blu Hoku 787-556-5025 Esperanza Yoga w/Valerie 508-945-7643 Jennifer @ Hix 787-435-6850 MariAngeles 787-435-7510 VIDEO RENTAL

Chepitos Video

787-649-2542

MUNICIPAL / GOV. AGENCIES / PUBLIC SERVICE

Banco Popular 787-741-7117 City Hall/Alcaldía 787-741-5000 Sun Bay 787-741-8198 US Fish and Wildlife Office 787-741-2138 Recycling Office 787.741.5000 Post Office 787-741-3891 Banco Popular 787-741-2071 PR Tourism Office Vieques Airport 787-741-2300 Isabel II 787-741-0800 AAA Autoridad de Acueductos 787-741-2001

Ticatove 787-741-2138 ticatovevieques@yahoo.com, Vieques Concert Society, 787-413-2450 www.viequesconcertsociety.org, Vieques Humane Society 703-623-2613 volunteer line 787-741-0209 www.viequeshumanesociety.org Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, 787-741-8850, www.vcht.org info@vcht.org,

EMERGENCY

Ambulance Hospital Emergency Fire Dept Police

787-741-1616 787-741-3282 911 787-741-2111 787-741-2020

To add or update your phone number please contact us at 787.435.3172 or kelly@viequesinsider.com

Mother nature’s guests be “in-the-know” Vacation. A journey into the unknown. A change of scenery to awaken the senses. You’ve checked your bags and your obligations at the airline ticket counter. Expectations for a relaxing, uninterrupted, glorious time are high. You arrive and instantly you go Aaaaahhhhh... (Small print on your glorious vacation:) Aaaahhhhh… can turn into Aaaackkk! in a nanosecond. Why? BUGS! and our colorful tropical fauna. Whether you are staying at a luxury villa or a local hostel, be aware of critters that you may encounter on the road, beach, or even, in your four star resort. Here onVieques we live hand in hand and cheek by jowl with nature in all her glory – and on a grand scale! And speaking of scales: Do expect a close encounter of a bi-pedal (2-legged), quadrupedal (4-legged) or hexapedal (6-legged) kind, but don’t let this hinder your vacation in any way. 1. Ants. Constantly searching for water and food, ants will find the tiniest crumb (or a microscopic drop of sugar based nectar). Example: On a recent vacation, I managed to forget my own advice and common knowledge. Having been invited to a villa on a neighboring island, I jumped a plane and left my cares behind. In vacation mode, I also left the caps off my toiletries and my toothbrush on the counter… uncovered. In the morning, ants were... everywhere. Mind you, this was a villa high in the mountains with an even higher price tag, but even at the height of the luxury ...ants still exist. Advice: Put anything remotely edible away inside the refrigerator or in sealed containers. Store toiletries in ziplock plastic bags.

Be on the lookout for fire ants. They sting and bite enthusiastically leaving tiny painful blisters behind. Learn to recognize their nests as treading on one is an apocalyptic nightmare! They are brown, rounded mounds on the ground that look like fine compost. If bitten, simply apply dabs of rubbing alcohol. ....................................

2. Reptiles. These abound here but are totally harmless. You may see them scurrying and scuttling about outdoors and in. Remember how important they are as they feast on insects for nourishment. Outdoors you will encounter several species of anoles and ground lizards as well as the main herpetological attraction: the green iguana. At night, (indoors or outdoors,) you may notice the Puerto Rican Upland gecko. Due to the mangoose, Vieques harbors no snake species.

3. Roosters: Roaming free range all over Vieques, roosters crow and crow and crow. I don’t simply mean at 3:00 am, but all night long. It is one thing to be awakened at 3 am by a crowing rooster, but quite another if that rooster crows with a cadence of a particular song. I swear I used to have a rooster roaming my yard that would crow the theme song to The Odd Couple. Try going to sleep with that stuck in your head! .................................... 4. No-see-ums: Also called sand flies, noseeums are infinitesimal biting cousins of the common house fly. Advice: don’t sweat the small stuff but don’t be on the beach at dusk when these little pests come out.

5. Mosquitoes: Mosquitoes are one insect to always prepare for. Employ insect repellent containing DEET or citronella oil and wear long sleeve clothing at night. .................................... 6. Cockroaches: These are a simple fact of island life. Rest assured that a cockroach sighting is not a sign of uncleanliness. Tropical living requires some compromising between ourselves and the insects. But no matter what war we wage against them – the strongest pesticide money can buy – when it comes to cockroaches, there’s always “more where that one came from.”

Gorgeous beaches, cooling trade winds, swaying palm trees accented by multicolored bougainvillea Vieques is a true tropical paradise. However, with the tropics come guests courtesy of Mother Nature.

Advice: Arrive prepared and with an open mind to not let a critter encounter get between you and your unforgettable vacation.

Sho t

for the

MOON

Vieques Sporting Clays Shooting Range the New Rage BY: TOM O’GRADY, JR.

The mid-morning sun sits just above eye level, casting a metallic sheen across the ocean. A light breeze moves left to right across the rich bowl of land that falls deeply from the lip of our flat landing. The man in front, José Belardo, adjusts his feet, balancing his weight between front and back leg, a slight lean forward in his upper body. He looks into the air in front of him, imagining the line of his shot reaching its target out there, somewhere above the dazzling view of green land rolling to blue sea. I’m watching his technique because I want to be able to use it to improve my shots, but I’m distracted by the one hundred acre vista that looks back at me with Caribbean calm. This could be Pebble Beach in Monterey County, California, Port Salon in Donegal, Ireland, or Royal Isabela on the big island of Puerto Rico, all breathtaking golf courses that provide shooters with nature’s warming embrace to balance the challenge of each shot. But this is not a golf course. PULL! Two neon-orange hockey pucks appear suddenly from the bushes below, moving like twin UFOs across the sky, floating and sailing all at once. BOOM! comes the report, then another, BOOM!, echoing across the hills as the second puck-in-flight explodes into dust. “Malo! Bueno!” the scorekeeper calls. Bad. Good. One miss, one hit. Six shots later Belardo steps from the shooting stand with

more hits than misses, replaced by a young boy whose shotgun is as long as him. Juan Andrés, or Andy as he is called, listens as his dad, Pedro De la Cruz, gives him last minute instructions. PULL! Two pucks, or sporting clay pigeons, fly into the gorgeous sky. Two more BOOMS! and both targets explode, one after the other. “Bueno, Bueno,” says the scorekeeper, and proud dad Pedro pats his son on the shoulder. Young Andy gives a stoic smile and resets his focus on the next pull. It’s Saturday morning at the Vieques Gun and Sporting Clays property, a huge chunk of stunning form-meets-function land on the southwest side of the island. Despite the golf course feel of the place things are a little different. The “caddies” are pullers, the golf carts are four-wheel-drive trucks and the “golfers” are wearing camo vests and carrying shotguns. There’s a whole new meaning to the question what did you shoot today? and the answer isn’t I broke ninety. Prior to the competition Belardo, a retired State and Municipal police officer, gives final instructions to a group of young boys who will be manning the machines that fling the clay pigeons into action. He impresses on them the importance of safety. Belardo is an excellent shooter as well as a police 39

weapons instructor and his words have weight with the “pullers.” Giving additional instructions is world-class shooter Rafy Bennazar who organizes the outing each weekend, traveling from his home on the main island. A senior banking manager during the week, Bennazar has travelled the world to compete, so the trip from Caguas to Vieques is a piece of cake. He competed at the Olympics in Athens in 2004 and Bejing in 2008 as well as in the Puerto Rico Olympics where he won gold and silver medals. He smiles and chats as he welcomes the shooting groups and signs them in for the weekly tournament. Clearly he loves the sport, and especially the Vieques property. “This is the most beautiful

golfers I’ve played with, these guys are enjoying each other’s company, teasing and complimenting each other as their malos and buenos add up. We eventually separate from them, thanking them for a great morning of competition as we are joined by the owner and manager of the range, Richard Rivera Torres. Richard is a handsome, curly-haired sprite with a mustached smile as wide as his hundred-acre view. It’s obvious he enjoys what he has here and is determined to share it with as many people as possible. “Isn’t this amazing?” he says, looking at the scene then back at range in the world,” he says, looking up me to check my reaction. He talks the massive slope to the tree tops high of continuing to promote the range above the clubhouse. “The views are for both residents and tourists, amazing!” providing ammo, guns and a guide Rafy Bennazar isn’t lying. And “amazing” for newbies like me to try the is a word that will pop up a few times today. sport. He sees hiking, ATV trails As we head to the first shooting stand I shift and, eventually, a zip line on the my Jeep from low gear to 4WD, going from property that will run in two stages gentle incline to nose-up climbing. Exiting from the top of the mountain, the the Jeep I turn around and lose second stage ending with a splash my breath, not from the elevation in the ocean far below us. but from the scope of what I’m It’s finally my turn to shoot and seeing – a 360 degree view of Richard offers additional coaching land and sea spread out farther as I step into the stand. The golf than I can take in. I’m excited to analogy I’ve been running through be here in this, well, “amazing” my head falls away quickly. This place and I’m excited to try sport is no 200 yard shot with a 6 iron. shooting for the first time. My It’s a 20 yard shot with a 12 gauge. friend Tyler is an experienced And the target’s moving. I get a few shooter and my personal trainer more suggestions and adjustments today, offering instructions about from my boys. That’s a good thing. stance, holding and loading the I feel like the Tyler/Richard Team shotgun and anticipating targets. Tom has my back. I set myself, Rafy Bennazar checks in He shows me how each stand l breathe in then out, and yell. tournament shooters. (top) ocation offers different chalPULL! lenges; a single target from right In a split second my neon pigeon Bolivar Arboleda, Sr. to left; two simultaneous targets appears from the bushes below enjoys the competition. from left to right; two targets and to the right of me. Per my –one slightly delayed after the coaches I follow it with both eyes other; two targets with the second launched when the open as it rises, then guess that I’m aiming where it is puller hears the shooter’s first shot. The type of target and pull the trigger. The kick from the shotgun to my combined with the moving air challenges each of the shoulder is surprisingly mild but solid. And the target four men and young boy in our group, especially on explodes. I can’t think of anything more eloquent to say the first shot of each location. But they quickly get in my head than WOW! First time, first shot. Bueno! their rhythm during the eight shots they take at each “PULL!” Second shot. Malo. Okay, maybe I just got stand location. There are occasional misses, but many lucky. “PULL!” “PULL!” I really love yelling that. Third more exploding clay pigeons. Unlike some competitive and fourth shots. Bueno! Bueno! Damn, I’m good. Get

Ines Rodriguez at the ready. (left) José Belardo marks hits and misses while Javier Torres waits his turn.

Vieques Gun Club & Sporting Clays H Ha ac c ii e en nd da a ll a a H Hu ue ec ca a p pr re es se en n tt s s ::

The Newest Sports Adventure on Our Island “The most beautiful sporting clays range on the planet!” All levels are welcome.

Guaranteed fun! me some competition! I’m ready! Team Tom eyes me with suspicion. Richard says, “You never shot before?” Nope. Tyler says, “Really your first time?” Yep. Three for four. I’m resting on my laurels, baby. Here’s your gun back. We move on, stopping at several other stands and observing the shooters while Richard joins in with a shot here and there, mostly Buenos. Richard is enjoying his interaction with his customers. They are like family to him and, interestingly enough, many of them are families out for the day. We meet the Rodrigues crew, grandfather/abuelo Almandro (60+), son/hijo Arial (40) and grandson/nieto Yatzel (10). Shooting with them is Ines Rodriguez (no relation) who comes over from Dorado to participate and check on her properties on Vieques. Later we will meet the Arboledas; Bolivar Sr. and Jr., and Junior’s wife, Diana Otero. Their son usually comes but couldn’t make it today. Diana carries the clipboard to keep score but I notice she doesn’t shoot. When I ask about it she beams with pride. “I don’t shoot. But this is a family activity. I’m proud to come out and support them.” She pauses, then looks out at the view. “And this is amazing too!” she says, waving her hand at the never-ending scenery. There’s that word again. In the meantime Bolivar, Sr. is shooting away for the camera. He’s in his eighties and has been shooting for over sixty of those years and he looks as excited today as I did ten minutes ago on my first try. What I started out thinking was an activity limited to “gun” people has quickly become a fun experience shared by people who enjoy each other’s company. Richard gets that and takes it one step further, seeing the tourist appeal. If a vacation is a place to try things you normally wouldn’t do at home, add this one to

For For Information Information or or Appointment: Appointment: Call Richard Rivera Call Richard Rivera Torres Torres

787-382-5242

Richard Rivera Torres and the “amazing” gun club property.

the list of snorkeling and paddle boarding. It’s definitely got as big a kick as water sports and you won’t find a better view. Like Rafy Bennazar I’ve been to a few places in the world and seen some fantastic scenery. Unlike Rafy I’ve never participated in Sporting Clay shooting till today. Headed back down the mountain, as the view overfills my windshield, I remember his words from our first meeting a few hours ago. “This is the most beautiful range in the world.” I think he’s right on target. Eight BUENOS!

Vieques

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with a lot of stuff

Beach SupplieS havianaS local art & craftS viequeS SouvenierS clothing men’S and women’S SwimSuitS jewelry and much more!

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DELI MARKET CATERING WINE & SPIRITS

787.741.4197

on the Malecon in esperanza since 2003 open everyday

made in VQs

Monday-Saturday 8am-6pm Isabel segunda

Take a little bit of Vieques home with you! LocaL artisan Bodycare

made with Local Ingredients

Gift Sets available! For sale at:

For provisioning requests please call

787.529.7316 LooK foR ouR PoP uP DINNERS!

Malecón

House

Boutique

www.maleconhouse.com

787-741 0663 Located at the chic Inn - Malecon House Esperanza right on the malecon next to Tradewinds 42

Larissa and Liz

917.573.4491

Funky Beehive

vieques.bathandbotanica@gmail.com

Ellie

Harold Vieques Oil Landscapes 231-352-6213

www.EllieHarold.com

MamaPlaya Himalaya ASIA ASIA INSPIRED INSPIRED CARIBBEAN CARIBBEAN FASHION FASHION

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Featuring the paintings of Nancy Hogan Armour Art/Paintings Prints Local Crafts Sarongs/Dresses/Incense/Toys Fair Trade Crafts

LUNA LOCA

Located between the Post Office & Blackbeard’s in Isabel Segunda Hours 9:30-4:30 99 Calle Munoz Rivera, Vieques, PR 00765

ISABEL II next to Biekes Bistro ESPERANZA Plaza Guayacán on the Malecon

The best selection of island wear, gifts & Accessories for everyone’s budget

787.548.1010

843-271-1910

99 Calle Munoz Rivera

Unique Gifts Beach Hats Beach Cover Ups Local Art Funny Cards Jewelry Island Clothing Home Décor Sunglasses Flip Flops

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Save money with the Trust's value card with discounts at many local businesses. For sale at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. 43

TREAT YOURSELF RIGHT

YOGA CLASSES

all levels welcome EVERYDAY W Retreat & Spa Everyday @ 8:15 MONDAY Hix Island House @ 8:30am Yoga with Maureen

“See the island the way it was meant to be seen... on a scenic trail ride with the Caribbean Cowgirls!”

787.435.0073

www.esperanzaridingcompany.com

ExploreVieques bi k e t o u r s

PILATES

WEDNESDAY Sunbay @ 10:00am with Linda ............................... TRX TRAINING CLASSES

TUES. - SUN. Hix Island House @9:30 Vinyasa Yoga w/Beading Bikini Jen

BY APPOINTMENT Call 315-440-0791 ...............................

TUES. & SUN.

WEDNESDAYS IN FEBRUARY Mindful Self Compassion Sunbay @ 10-11:15am

MON. & THURSDAY Sunbay @ 9:30 am Kripalu Yoga with Valerie ...............................

THURSDAYS IN FEBRUARY “Positive Psychology Workshop @ Gallery Galleon- 3:00-4:30 pm The Science of Happiness” A weekly interactive session taught by Andre & Judy De Zanger. Come to one class or all!

Sunset Yoga with Maureen Harrison, Hills of Monte Carmelo, 5pm 787-556-5025

MEDITATION CLASSES

KARL ALEXANDER

The W’s signature spa treatment using their handmade artisan body scrub Café con Coco is a Vieques experience not to be missed. Made with a combination of local ingredients of shredded coconut, freshly ground Puerto Rican coffee, and coconut oil, this massage is a Vieques experience.

787-741-4661 or find us on facebook!

Come ride or stay with us!

any • t mp

Sunset or daytime rides on the beach with memorable views to St.Thomas and Culebra.

ieque s

ding co ri

CAFÉ CON COCO

origin a

& HORSEBACK RIDING

handmade artisan body scrub

Riding with SeaGate helps support our animal and horse rescue efforts.

www.seagatehotel.com

Private & small groups by appointment only. SeaGate Hotel offers very comfortable lodging at an affordable price!

Relaxation delivered right to your door!

INGRID BERGMAN

Nationally Certified Massage Therapist • Swedish Deep Tissue Neuromuscular Therapy

787-435-1313 www.ViequesMassage.com viequesmassage@yahoo.com

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RuN VQS

HEALTHY LIVIN’

BY JOSE CARASQUILLO

Vieques is an extraordinary place for runners, walkers and hikers, offering never-ending possibilities to accommodate just about every level. From beginners to hard-core seasoned marathoners to extreme sports enthusiasts, Vieques has it all! I’ve listed seven routes that provide Vieques residents and visitors places to stretch out their legs, concentrating on areas with light traffic. Some of these routes can be combined or shortened depending on your needs.

1 Sunbay • 3mi. Easy

3 Airport

200

2 miles

Punta Arenas

4 1.7 miles

iles 2m

200

6 995

Bunkers

3 miles

201 201

Radar Sugar Mill Ruins

5 Playa Grande

201

Esperanza

Begin the run on the Malecón across from Belly Buttons and run east towards El Blok where the road turns left. Stay on the road and follow to the three-way stop across from the Green Store and turn right. Stay on the road until you reach the entrance to Sun Bay. Turn right through the gates into Sun Bay. Head towards the water and follow one of several eastbound sand trails that stretch the length of Sun Bay. Type of run: Starting point and back with little or no shade. Level of difficulty: Easy Terrain: Flat Ground: Pavement; hard packed dirt mixed with sand inside Sun Bay. Distance: Approximately 3 miles round trip. Scenery: The Malecón, green open space at Sun Bay (ideal for walking or speed work outs), palm and almond trees inside Sun Bay, blue waters.

6 The Rollercoaster • 11.5 mi. Extremely Challenging

1 Sun Bay

3 Rompeolas • 2mi. Easy /occasional strong winds 5 Playa Grande • 7 mi. Medium to Challenging

997

996

2 Esperanza Loop • 5mi. Average/Challenging 4 Wild West • almost 20 mi. Moderate

996

> 1. Sun Bay

Playa Caracas

7 Wildlife Refuge to Playa Caracas • 6 mi. Easy

> 2. The Esperanza Loop

Begin the run on the Malecón across from Belly Buttons and run east towards El Blok where the road turns left. Stay on the road and follow to the three-way stop across from the Green Store and turn right. Turn left on 996 before Sun Bay. Turn left onto 201 at Noche Restaurant. Stay on 201 until 996. Turn left onto 996. Type of run: A loop with hills around Esperanza with some shade. Level of difficulty: Average to challenging. Gradual incline turns into rolling hills. Terrain: Moderately hilly. Ground: Pavement Distance: Approximately 5 miles. Scenery: Plenty of Almacigo Colorado trees along the way. Once on 201, the area feels and looks subtropical. Stunning views of Esperanza and the Caribbean on the highest point of 201.

997

201

ile

> 3. Rompeolas – Mosquito Pier The long pier on the north shore past the airport on 200. Begin the run at either end of the pier or the parking lot.

Type of run: Starting point and back with no shade. Level of difficulty: Easy; strong wind gusts. Terrain: Flat stretch. Ground: Pavement with gravel and grassy areas adjacent to the pavement. Distance: Approximately 2 miles round trip. Scenery: Run north and see El Yunque and the east coast of Puerto Rico. Look northeast and see Culebra and the outline of St. Thomas. Run south and enjoy a panoramic view of Vieques from Isabel II all the way to Punta Arenas.

> 4. The Wild West

Begin the run at the Airport heading west. The west side of Vieques offers everything an experienced runner wants and needs: flat surfaces, hilly workouts, cross country terrain and hardly any traffic. Type of run: Mostly flat with a few highs and lows, little or no shade. Level of difficulty: Moderate. Terrain: Mostly flat except for the road that goes south toward the Playa Grande sugar cane mill. Ground: Pavement. Inside the Punta Arenas Refuge, the last 1.7 miles is packed dirt/gravel. Distances: From the airport to the base of Rompeolas is approximately 2 miles. From the base of Rompeolas to the road that goes to the Playa Grande sugar cane mill (on your left) is approximately .5 mile. Option 1 - Running south from that intersection all the way to the Playa Grande sugar mill is approximately 3 miles. Option 2 - Continuing west from that intersection to the entrance of the Punta Arenas Refuge is approximately 2 miles. From the entrance of the Punta Arenas Refuge to the end is approximately 1.7 miles. Scenery: The west side foliage is emerald green almost year round. Blue waters towards eastern PR. Monte Pirata (highest point on Vieques) will be to the south. The forest of palm trees and mangroves inside Punta Arenas is impressive. .............................................................................

> 5. Playa Grande

Begin the run on the Malecón across from Belly Buttons running west. Turn left onto 201 and proceed all the way to the end (radar facility). Turn left and go down the hill to the ocean and Playa Grande. Follow the road all the way to the bridge. Type of run: Starting point and back with some shade. Level of difficulty: Medium to challenging. Gradual but steady inclines. Terrain: Hilly. Ground: Pavement; hard packed dirt-gravel Distance: Round trip is approximately 7 miles. Scenery: There are mountains to the right and water views to the left. Playa Grande is a rugged beach with strong winds and surf to match. As you run toward the bridge you’ll see sand dunes. To the right of the bridge is the Playa Grande Lagoon. Great views of Monte Pirata.

> 6. The Rollercoaster - 995

Begin the run on the Malecón across from Belly Buttons running east towards El Blok where the road turns left. Stay on the road and follow to the three-way stop across from the Green Store and turn right. Turn left onto 996. Turn left onto 201 (Noche). Stay on 201 until 995. Turn right onto 995 and go all the way to 200 on the north side of the island. Type of run: Starting point and back, some shade; 995 is mostly shaded. Level of difficulty: Difficult. This is an extremely challenging run. Terrain: Very hilly. Ground: Pavement Distance: Round trip is approximately 11.5 miles. Turn right on 200 and run toward the airport where there is a water fountain. It adds a good mile to the run. Scenery: 995 is a subtropical forest with several eco-systems at play. .............................................................................

> 7. Wildlife Refuge to

Caracas Begin the run at Garcia Gate at the Refuge on 997 running east. Turn right at the entrance to Caracas Beach. Follow road to beach and parking area. Be aware of the Refuge closing hours. Type of run: Point and back with no shade. Level of difficulty: Easy Terrain: Flat Ground: Pavement Distance: Round trip is approximately 6 miles. For a longer run (12.5) begin at the Malecon and follow directions passed Sun Bay – keep going on 997 to Garcia Gate on your right. For those seeking a trail hike or run, Playuela beach offers a well maintained trail option. Scenery: An array of shrubs and trees. Great views of Lujan and Destino neighborhoods as well as hills to the east. Further east on the refuge there is a dry forest eco system with many types of cactus.

José has been a long distance runner convert since his days at Indiana University in Bloomington. He just completed his 50th marathon (26.2 miles) in Ohio. He has also competed in triathlons and biathlons including an Iron Man pre-qualifier in Chicago.

SAFETY TIPS

FOR RUNNING OR WALKING IN VIEQUES 1. If you want to begin a regimen of exercise consult a physician before starting. 2. Vieques roads have no shoulders, sidewalks or service areas. Run/walk against traffic. When cars approach, step off the road momentarily. If you are running with others make certain you file behind each other when motorists approach. 3. Walk the blind curves and step off the road. Remember, if you can’t see what is beyond the curve, a motorist coming in the opposite direction can’t see you either. 4. Horses are everywhere and can be startled by runners. Keep in mind that horses can be highly sensitive and protective of their young. When passing horses, whether running or walking, be fully aware and respectful of their space. Run/ walk around them keeping a fair distance. Avoid going near horses that are fighting. 5. There will be dogs! Most dogs on Vieques are friendly, but some can bark at a runner and sometimes be aggressive. Each situation is different, but if a dog runs after you, stop, face the dog and yell “NO!” It’s a universal command and it works 90% of the time. Another easy command is “VETE!” (go away). If the aggressive behavior continues, walk away from the dog yelling NO or VETE! If you are bitten by a horse or dog you MUST go to the hospital. 6. Do not run/walk after sunset unless wearing reflective gear. Running at night is not recommended. Wear light-bright colors, even during daylight hours. Do not run in all black. 7. Keep in mind that we have no water fountains on most of the island. There are facilities and a water fountain at Sun Bay (south side) and at the airport (north side). 8. From Dec 1 – May 1, the temperatures range between 70s to low 80s by 7am. From May 1 – Nov 30 the temperatures are a good 10 degrees higher than in the winter months by 7am. If you are not acclimated to Vieques’ heat and humidity be prepared. Take water or electrolyte-replacing liquids along. Stay alert and be on the lookout for signs of heat exhaustion (dizziness, muscle cramps, nausea, profuse sweating, racing heart rate, disorientation). Regardless of your level of endurance, the sun and heat will win. 9. After a long run, let your body cool itself down naturally—usually 10 minutes after the run. DO NOT pour cold or iced water over your head. This can actually send the body into shock! 10. After a Vieques run/walk drink plenty of water and/or electrolyte-replacing liquids the rest of the day.

Rehydrate, and Be Cool…

B E AC H B U C K E T F I R ST A I D

BY DR. BEN

So now that you’ve run the hills on the island or spent a day walking on the beach there’s one final step you should take. Rehydrate! In a Caribbean climate the sun is strong and the temperatures are high. Any physical activity puts your system to work cooling you down, which means perspiration, and that means the loss of essential fluids and electrolytes in your blood. It’s called dehydration, and symptoms you may encounter include fatigue, lightheadedness, increased thirst, dry mouth, rapid heart rate and breathing problems. And to counter that, rehydration. (This article is specifically talking about dehydration from exercise and not from medical illnesses like diarrhea, especially in children, which have expanded treatments.) Of GREAT importance is to drink plenty of fluids while exercising or being active! Glucose-containing, caffeine-free drinks are the beverages of choice, with Gatorade as a good choice for mild dehydration. The simple ingredients of salt, sugar, and water are the mainstay for rehydration. If you don’t have the big “G” in your fridge home solutions can be used such as water in which rice has been cooked, chicken broth, fruit juices, green coconut water and weak tea (unsweetened). Plain water can be

consumed but lacks the electrolytes. A simple concoction recommended by the World Health Organization consists of 1 liter of water with 1 teaspoon of salt and 2 tablespoons of sugar added. Not exactly that piña colada you had last night, but it should keep you healthy. Of greater concern in a tropical climate is the associated potential for heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Heat exhaustion symptoms include headache, nausea, vomiting, malaise, dizziness, muscle cramps and the usual signs of dehydration such as a rapid heart rate and lightheadedness when standing or sitting up. Your temperature may be normal or elevated but usually not above 104° Fahrenheit. Heat exhaustion may proceed to heat stroke which is a life-threatening emergency if left untreated. The prominent features of heat stroke are elevated temperatures greater than 104° Fahrenheit. and mental status changes in addition to the symptoms seen in heat exhaustion. Look for confusion, delirium,

balance problems, coma and seizures. Mild heat exhaustion is treated with fluid and electrolyte replacement and rest. Removal from the heat-stressed environment is essential. More severe heat exhaustion and heat stroke need to be treated immediately at the hospital for fluid replacement, aggressive cooling and supportive care. Not to put a damper on the vacation but avoid all alcoholic beverages during your exercise period as it can impact dehydration. Alcohol has a diuretic effect causing an increase in urination which can further electrolyte imbalance and fluid loss. Preventative measures for remaining hydrated while exercising or working in the heat and limiting your exposure to the hot environment is the best practice. Exercise, have fun and be safe, and remember to keep the kids hydrated on the beach! But if you do experience any of the more severe symptoms seek medical care at our island’s ER. Tell them Dr. Ben sent you!

This article is intended to convey general information for educational purposes only, and should not be considered a professional diagnosis, opinion, advice, treatment or services as to any particular patient or injury. The information provided is not a substitute for medical or professional care, and you should not use the information in place of a visit, call, consultation or the advice of your physician or other healthcare provider. IF YOU BELIEVE YOU HAVE A MEDICAL EMERGENCY, YOU SHOULD IMMEDIATELY CALL 911 OR YOUR PHYSICIAN. If you believe you have any other health problem, or if you have any questions regarding your health or a medical condition, you should promptly consult your physician or other healthcare provider. Never disregard medical or professional advice, or delay seeking it, because of something you read in this article. Never rely on information contained in this article in place of seeking professional medical advice. Medical information changes constantly. Therefore the information contained in this article should not be considered current, complete or exhaustive, nor should you rely on such information to recommend a course of treatment for you or any other individual. Reliance on any information provided in this article is solely at your own risk. 48

Sunscreen

101

DOCTOR’S ORDERS

COVERING THE BASICS BY DR. BEN

Here are some FDA facts about sun protection and what to look for when buying sunscreen. Broad Spectrum = Covers both UVA and UVB rays

and

15 SPF or higher. Only Broad Spectrum SPF products with SPF values 15 or higher can claim (by FDA regulations) to reduce the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging. Non-Broad Spectrum sunscreens and Broad Spectrum SPF value between 2 and 14 can only claim to help prevent sunburn. Incentive to use the former! ..........................

SE VENDEN COCOS

round the island you will see vendors selling coconuts at roadside stands or out of trucks parked along the road. The owners will remove the top of a young, green coconut with a machete and give you a straw to drink the coconut water inside. True local performance art with a sweet reward. Coconut water is the opaque liquid that comes straight from the inside of a young (unripened) coconut. Coconut water from green coconuts contains electrolytes, is naturally fat free, has less sugar, less sodium and more potassium than most sports drinks, and is delicious!

There is no such thing as waterproof sunscreen. It is water resistant which means you need to reapply as directions on the bottle indicate. Usually every 40 or 80 minutes. .......................... Reapply sunscreen at least every 2 hours and more often if you’re swimming or sweating. .......................... Apply sunscreen on cloudy days. As much as 80% of UV rays can penetrate the clouds.

Limit your time in the sun, especially with peak sun intensity, between 10 am and 2 pm. .......................... UV rays penetrate through car windows. .......................... Apply 1 oz ( what would fill a shot glass ) for the average adult, from head to toe. .......................... Use lip balm with SPF 15 or higher to protect your kisser! .......................... Be aware that some medications increase sun sensitivity so check the medication lable. .......................... For sensitive skin and kids look for hypoallergenic and fragrance-free on the label. Reapply often as kids are always active at the beach and in and out of the water. .......................... For babies under 6 months check with your pediatrician.

takin’ it easy

This is one of the most useful tools to have in your beach bag. It makes putting up a beach umbrella easy. AVAILABLE AT VIEQUES GIFTS • ESPERANZA

WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED DRINKING THE COCONUT WATER, ASK THE VENDOR TO CUT THE COCONUT IN HALF FOR THE SWEET MEAT INSIDE. A SLICE OF THE OUTSIDE HUSK MAKES A PERFECT SPOON!

A HORSE REQUIRES A MINIMUM OF 20 GALLONS O F WAT E R D A I LY I N HOT HUMID W E AT H E R , MORE IF IT IS BEING RIDDEN OR IS P R E G N A N T.

now you see me.

Camouflage sunglasses are all the rage! Polarized for a beach day on Vieques or the first day of deer season in the northeast. Go in style! AVAILABLE AT PLAYA VOLTIOS SURF SHOP • ISABEL II

doctors, dentists, and pharmacies BY: LIZ O’GRADY

MEDICAL NOTES

elcome to Vieques! You are on vacation! What a great feeling - chill out, lay back, enjoy the vibe of this beautiful island. Oops - someone doesn’t feel well. Is it serious? Is it just too much sun? Is it you? Worse, is it your child? The fact is even on vacation we sometimes need medical attention. Not to worry. Here’s some information to help you find what you need. Side note: the doctors and medical care facilities are all on the

north side of the island, in or around Isabel II. There are three primary care doctors on island and an emergency room that is open 24/7. Dr. Ivette Perez (787-741-7733) can see you or a family member the same day. Call her office to make an appointment for that afternoon. She is in her office Monday to Friday. Dr. Figueroa (787-7412222) and Dr. Rivera (787741-0738) also practice family medicine on Vieques. It might be a longer wait to see them. To get a same day appointment with Dr. Figueroa go to his office at 8 a.m., sign in, and the staff will tell you what time to come back to be seen. Office visits are generally $25 to $30 for all three physicians. On Route 997, not far from the intersection of Route 200, is the Susana Centro Health Center. The Center has a 24/7 Emergency Room with talented doctors and nurses to help you. If you need a visit to the ER the cost is $125

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which includes whatever treatment is deemed necessary. They will give you a receipt so you can get reimbursed from your insurance provider when you get back home. There is also a Pediatric Clinic at the Center Monday to Friday, and an OB/GYN clinic. Susana Centro has a pediatrician and an OB/ GYN on call at all times. If you are a veteran, thank you for your service, and know that there is also a Veteran’s Clinic at Susana Centro. Did you forget your prescription medications? Or do you need help deciding on the appropriate over the counter medicine? Go to Farmacia San Antonio (787-741-8397) in the main town of Isabel. Dreda, the pharmacist, will be happy to help you. Uh oh, a toothache? There is a dental clinic at Susana Centro every morning with Dr. Daphne Torres (787-741-1916), and she has private office hours in the afternoon. Or call

Dr. Fanny Garraton (787741-8765) who will give you a same day appointment Monday through Thursday. If you prefer more natural remedies for your ailments go see Mayra at the health food store, Yerbabuena y mas (787567-4158), behind the Post Office. She’ll do her best to point you in the right direction for a natural remedy. Keep in mind, this is the Caribbean. You might wait a little longer than you’re used to before you get face to face with a doctor. We call it Island Time. But be assured the health care providers care about you and your concerns. Remember, in a true emergency call 911! You will be transported by ambulance to the emergency room if necessary. You will need to tell them where you are staying so have your location handy (guest house, villa, casa, etc.). Now you’re better (or getting there). Go back to the beach!

Dr. Ivette Perez Dr. Figueroa Dr. Rivera Susana Centro Health Center Farmacia San Antonio Dr. Daphne Torres Dr. Fanny Garraton Yerbabuena y Mas

787-741-7733 787-741-2222 787-741-0738 787-741-1166 787-741-8397 787-741-1916 787-741-8765 787-567-4158

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ISLAND HOME

Judy Chadwick’s gardening expertise has transformed the bare plot of ground around Casa Karma into a lush dramatic oasis. (top) The imaginative re-use of a motorcycle exhaust pipe, and a pair of clamps is fashioned into an elegant tropical bird in John Towne’s sculpture. Inspired by the diverse flora and fauna of Vieques, Judy Chadwick’s artwork reflects a colorful and exuberant lifestyle. Her repurposed canvases range from cement trowels and wooden wine boxes to old doors and shutters.

Polenta plates from John Towne’s Italian grandmother grace the wall over the brick-lined oven along with four tiles a friend brought back from Greece.

casa karma

A House Grows Up in a Hillside Garden By: Cynthia Nicholson

eople often come to Vieques to find a new lifestyle and that style is sometimes reflected in their homes; their location on the island, their design, and their décor. Creating your own space on a small island presents challenges that are usually met with ingenuity and creativity. Occasionally, Vieques Insider will feature one of these homes and their designers to show a unique expression of Vieques lifestyle. Meet Judy Chadwick and John Towne of Casa Karma.

Terra cotta pineapples, trees filled with orchids, and scrap metal shaped into a Japanese Tori by John all lend balance to Judy’s indoor-outdoor garden.

PHOTO BY: ELAINE HEUMANN GURIAN

A statue of Baccus from the 1890’s survived the move in a container from Connecticut to Vieques and now presides over the dining area.

Hand painted Talavera tiles from Mexico lend colorful design to the countertop above the oven. John and Judy relax in their courtyard.

On a sweeping high bluff with a magnificent view of our sister island of Culebra sits the very private home of gifted artists Judy Chadwick and John Towne. Weary from traveling the world for their work – a print consulting business – the Connecticut couple decided they wanted to slow-down and smell the wild jasmine by moving to an island in warmer climes. One cold day, while on a business trip in Buffalo, NY, John was flipping through a wedding magazine and came across an ad for a vacation rental in Vieques. They flew down and decided that this was THE place for them to start a new life. They returned home to 29 inches of snow and started making plans to move. Seven months later, they were back in Vieques and found a one-room house to buy on a piece of property that had no water or electricity, but had beautiful views. Back North again, the couple sold just about everything they owned and packed the rest in a shipping container to be delivered

later. When Chadwick and Towne moved here for good in 1997 the one room house and the bare ground surrounding it was to become their labor of love. They lived for six and half years without power. For a year and half a 10-gallon metal drum became their rainwater catchment system. And now after seventeen years, through their hard work and possessing a unique vision, the dream of island life has become a very real paradise. As you enter, an arched doorway leads you into an open courtyard bordered by a tropical garden, backed by a brilliant blue wall – a color reminiscent of the sky overhead and the sea in the distance. Judy and John have successfully managed to bring the outdoors inside with an airy openness to their living space. Color, texture, and balance show off their exceptional gardening skills. John credits Judy with her signature “wild but tame” gardening style that is lively and refreshing. A thicket of bamboo

“We quit our very lucrative jobs and moved to Vieques to a house with no water and no electricity. Our friends either thought we had gone mad or they envied us moving to the “simple, island life”. To be honest, we have never worked harder in our lives than we do here. But now we love what we do and where we live.” 52

timeless Tiles By: Cynthia Nicholson

Bright colors and found objects are a hallmark of Casa Karma. The vibrant painting of flowers was a birthday present to Judy from neighbor Annabelle Deluca.

provides shade to the open-air dining room while an inviting pool in the back yard beckons you to jump-in. Everywhere you look around their home, there are intriguing re-purposed treasures. What others have discarded, John and Judy have transformed by skill and imagination. A series of license plates painted red, white and blue have become a Puerto Rican flag. A salt-weathered shutter is used as a canvas for one of Judy’s colorful folk-art-inspired paintings. John uses his metal working skills to turn old rebar into a whimsical wine rack, and an old wallpaper print cylinder sees new life as an enormous wind chime. A broken chair has been lovingly repaired and painted in funky colors while the lacey metal grill work from an old sewing machine becomes a stunning wall ornament. They have fashioned an environment of creative idiosyncrasy – a home that truly reflects their personalities. For John Towne and Judy Chadwick, Casa Karma embodies an island dream come true.

he natural beauty of Vieques er than the old colonial floors made of gorgeous beaches, herds of horses, stone, coral, bricks or wood. Traditional stunning views and dramatic floor designs made of cement tiles, sunsets - is probably why you came “Losa criolla”(creole tile) or “losa isleño” here, whether it’s your first time or your (island tile), as they are called in Puerto tenth. But Vieques has been many things Rico, are usually laid out like a carpet or before it was a tourist attraction. Look a rug and often have a coordinating border little deeper and you can see evidence of just as a Persian rug might. Because its history in the archeological findings they are hand-made no two are exactly of ancient American Indian people at alike and small imperfections only add Fort Conde Mirasol, at the Playa Grande to their character and beauty. Here in Sugar Mill ruins, and in the Spanish and Vieques, a large number of homes and French-influenced architecture of the businesses built in the early part of the homes and businesses in Isabel Segunda. 20th century used cement tiles, not only Sometimes you can for their durability but find evidence of its also for their eye-catchcultural heritage just ing designs and colors. by looking down. There The popularity of you may discover a colcement tiles started to orful piece of Vieques diminish in the early history if the floor is 1960s. A construction made of hydraulic or boom was emerging cement tiles. on the island and these According to hand-crafted tiles soon Hernan Moran, author gave way to a new of Puerto Rico Tile flooring material called Designs, cement or terrazzo. Some of the cehydraulic tiles were ment tile manufacturers first introduced to in Puerto Rico switched Puerto Rico around to producing “losetas 1900, imported by ship del pais” (terrazzo tiles) from Barcelona, Spain. Cement tiles from the Dominican and concrete blocks as Republic are a major design ele- the answer to the high Fifty years earlier in ment throughout this comfort- demand of new flooring Europe the technique able casa. Designed and owned for making decoraproducts. Today, thanks by Perri Delfino and Jamie Wolff, tive cement tiles was their home and vacation rental “El to an appreciation of the perfected and quickly Dormilon” (Sleepyhead in Span- aesthetics and the qualspread to Spanish col- ish) features colorful cement tiles ity of the “antique” tiles, onies in the Americas, in breezy, spacious rooms with cement tiles are enjoysweeping views. Asia, and Africa. The ing a renaissance. The process for creating increasing revival of incement tiles is very economical because terest has resulted in new designs and a of the low cost of the raw materials. A newer color palette from manufacturers mold, cement, color pigments and water in Mexico and the Dominican Republic. are used to produce tiles by compresAn example of this are the resplendent sion in a hydraulic press. The tiles are cement tiles used throughout the new not fired or glazed like ceramic tile. They El Blok hotel in Esperanza. In Isabel II, are air cured and can be used shortly take a look at the floors at the restaurant after being manufactured, eliminating Conuco and the clothing boutique Sol the need for a kiln, or oven, thus further Creations for a peek into the cement tile reducing the cost of manufacturing. designs of the past. It seems what was Both beautiful and practical, cement once old is new again. tiles were found to be cooler and clean-

John and Judy’s artwork can be seen at the Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery in Isabell II.

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PASTIME

For those new to the game here are some fun facts.

“It’s an easy game to learn but a difficult one to master.” If Vieques – as well as the rest of Puerto Rico – were to have a national pastime, it wouldn’t be horseback riding or snorkeling. It would be playing dominos! Residents learn this strategic table game at an early age and play resolutely and passionately the rest of their lives. It makes sense that island dwellers play dominos and not cards for practical reasons. Sitting in the plaza or by the sea players don’t have to worry about their “cards” blowing away or getting wet! Groups pop up all over the island. You will find games at the beach, at bars, colmados, on the Malecón and on benches in Isabel. There is a dedicated group that plays all weekend at La Nasa, young and old joined at the tables, knees bouncing, fingers tapping, and keys jingling. It’s a fast, fun game with long stretches of silence then raucous laughter and shouts. It is more than the game - it is a ritual, a social gathering with families interacting, relationships forming, husbands

and wives teaming up, and newcomers and old “pros” meeting. News and gossip are passed around like the many cold cans of Medalla while music moves some of the on-lookers. Despite the party atmosphere, players maintain etiquette. Protocol requires the losing team to get up from the table and take a break for a drink or a dance as the challengers sit down. Games, or manos, are played counterclockwise and a match is the best of seven games. Major faux pas are leaving people waiting when you know you have the game won (throw down your tiles if you’ve got it in the bag) and reneging, the mistake of holding a tile that should be played. The game is always friendly but very competitive. Like most serious players of any game, no one likes to lose. If you lose four straight games the match is over and you are the “chiva” or goat. The opposing team might “baaaaaaa” at you. You don’t want to be

the goat. Players have a style of play as well. Some slam the keys down with authority, others quietly slide them into place. There’s always some degree of one-up-manship, a little chiding or teasing or bragging. The goal is always to get the person who plays after you to pass, so the person who plays before you is your worst enemy in the game. Like any game it’s supposed to be fun. Play with people who will help you understand the game, then move up to the “pro” level players when you’ve gained some confidence. Joe Popp, a North American who has learned the game well since moving here a decade ago has played with most of the island’s “pros”. They still teach him a thing or two when he gets the chance to sit in. “There is strategy involved,” he says with a smile. “In dominos you can’t win with a bad hand but you can lose with a good hand.”

The first mention of the game of dominos comes from China’s Song Dynasty (966 – 1279 AD) The name domino is derived from the resemblance to a kind of priest’s hood (black on the outside, white on the inside) worn during the Venice carnival. There are 28 rectangular tiles, or bones, to a set, each with a line on its face side dividing it into two squares. Each square is either blank or marked with up to 6 dots informally called pips. Although there are several games to be played, the traditional game is for 2 to 4 players with the objective to empty one’s hand, a domino, while blocking opponents from doing so. In the end, a score is determined by counting the pips in the losing players’ hands. 55

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VQS STORIES

Stories of romance, bewilderment &

awesome radiance STORY AND PHOTOS BY: ELLIOT ANDERSON

When you come to Vieques with someone special you can almost hear it, wafting like a soft voice in the tropical air; slow down, play, simplify, fall in love. If you are already in love there is no better place to revel in it than the gorgeous island settings the island has to offer. The beauty and romance of Vieques has made it not only a hot spot for destination weddings, but also the destination of choice to pop the big question. Take Eric and Isela, stepping out onto the parched tarmac of Vieques Aeropuerto for a week of glittering sand and sunshine. Unbeknownst to Isela, Eric has in his carry-on a tiny, embossed box symbolizing his lifelong love and commitment. If, upon receiving the ring, Isela utters the magic word – yes - then the two begin the next chapter of their lives. Eric has made all the preparations; a romantic dinner, perhaps a nice bottle of champagne and, to document the moment, a sneaky photographer hiding in the bushes. I’m the sneaky photographer, engaged in a growing trend. I typically photograph weddings but I’ve recently been receiving more and more inquiries to shoot marriage proposals. At weddings critical moments happen in a similar way, event after event. There is a schedule and a plan. A proposal is far more variable. I’ve had a groom keep me standing with my camera in hand for over a half an hour while he steeled his nerves. Then there are grooms like Eric who scarcely give me a chance to realize he’s down on one knee. But I’m ready. Eric takes out his iPhone and grabs a few quick snaps of Isela posing on a bluff overlooking the Caribbean. With expert subtlety, he asks her to turn around and look out toward the stunning horizon. As she looks he tosses his phone like a hot potato and immediately takes a knee, leaving Isela WEDDINGS WEDDING DN absolutely dumbfounded. Eric is on his knee, the ring in his hand. Her moStress-Free Destination Wedding Planning ment of realization is & Event Floral Specialists among the best I’ve 787-741-8000 • www.weddingsinvieques.com seen. And I get the shot! Their future begins, and I get out FLOW of the bushes. Such is love.

Vieques

Poem Eighty No Place to Visit or The Diminished Returns Better to keep your country small Your people few Your devices simple And even those for infrequent use. Let people measure life By the meaning of death And not go out of their way To visit far off places. With nowhere to travel And little care for the display, Great ships, fine carriages And shining weapon become Mere relics of the past. Let people recover The simple life: Reckoning by knotted cords, Delighting in a basic meal, Pleased with humble attire. Happy in their homes Taking pleasure in their rustic ways. So content are they That in nearby towns So close, the sound of dogs and roosters Forms one chorus-Folks grown grey with age May pass away never having strayed Beyond their village. Lao Tzu.

Vieques Baila

VA L E N T I N E D A N C E

all are welcome!

Sat. Feb. 14, 2015 at the Coliseo in Isabel II 5 PM GRATIS / free

OUT N ABOUT

vieques baila Steppin’ Out Chuck and Sandy Tepfer dance the night away at the annual Vieques Baila 2013

Island Rituals Charlie, the island shaman, keeps the hurricanes away.

alexandra Always Dancing Ernesto Salgado Sanes and Sol A. Diaz Félix

Juanes on Vieques filming a music video on the Malecón.

Alexandra Agosto Ortiz Patronales queen participating in a parade in Carolina, PR.

La Nasa Bar Posters and bumper stickers adorn La Nasa bar. What used to be the office of the fisherman’s association is now the cultural meeting spot for dancing, drinking, and dominos.

LA NASA

Feliz dia de los Reyes. Coast Guard members bring presents to Vieques children to celebrate Three Kings Day. Pilon Road One of the most beautiful roads on Vieques. (rt. 995)

The Vieques Humane Society has a new, clinic welcome area, funded in memory of animal advocate Brett Baccus. Island visitors: check out Vieques Humane Society on FaceBook. Before you leave Vieques, become a supporting member: 787.741.0209.

THE BUZZ ON BEES

Bees are Here to Stay BY: CY N T H IA NI C HOL SON

The island of Vieques is blessed with a healthy abundance of bees, from the Atlantic Ocean on the north side to the Caribbean Sea on the south. Our honeybees here are Africanized, which most people associate with “killer bees”. They will protect their hive, but they are hardly any more aggressive than regular bees. Honeybees by nature are social insects, exhibiting a combination of individual traits and social cooperation that is unparalleled in the animal kingdom. Highly intelligent, they live in well-organized colonies that are made up of three different castes, the queen, the worker, and the drone. The queen bee is the heart and soul of the colony; there is only one queen per hive and her only purpose in life is to make more bees. She is the largest bee in the colony and has a long graceful body. The worker bees make up the majority of the population of a hive and are sterile females. They tend to the different tasks needed to maintain and operate the hive. From the moment they emerge from their cell, they start to work as house bees, doing comb construction, cleaning, tending to the queen and drones, rearing the brood, regulating temperature and defending the hive. WHEW! Older female workers are called field bees as their duties involve work

outside of the hive. They forage to gather pollen, water, and nectar and plant resins used in hive construction. The last members of the caste are the male drones; they have no stinger and are larger and stouter than the worker bees. Mating with the queen is their primary purpose in life, occurring in mid-flight at two hundred to three hundred feet in the air. After mating with the queen, they fall to their death. Of course, our part of the sweet reward for all this busy bee work is honey. The thick liquid is the product of nectar drawn from flowers and processed with bee enzymes. The flavor and color of honey depends on the type of flower from which the nectar was taken. Here in Vieques, honeybees have an incredible array of blossoms to choose from including acacia, avocado, mango, coconut, citrus fruits and acerola, depending on the season. Unfortunately, many people misunderstand the role of bees and see them as something negative. But Vanessa Valedon and her husband Manny see it as something very positive. They keep bees as part of a local business here hoping folks will have a more upbeat outlook once they taste the delicious tropical honey that these bees produce. Vanessa points out that Vieques Africanized bees have characteristics and strengths that help make them resistant to diseases and mites that plague bee populations in other parts of the world, including the U.S. “We wanted to name our company Killer Bee,” says Vanessa, “so people, locals and visitors alike, would realize that bees are essential to our lives as an important link in our food chain.” Vieques resident Jorge Cora has been a beekeeper for over 40 years and has earned the title of “el apicultor susurrante” or “the bee whisperer”. He has been studying our Africanized bees for 13 years and has contributed

vital information about the future of apiculture here in Vieques. He works the land of his Monte Carmelo finca (farm) with the help, of course, of his 22 working beehives, growing organic fruits and vegetables. Fostering this symbiotic relationship among his organic crops and the bees is as natural as the rain that helps them grow. He points out that “the bees play a fundamental role in our lives. Cars have an engine... agriculture has bees. The main impetus in agriculture is the bees. Simple as that.” The fact is, over one-third of our food supply relies on honeybee pollination. Simply put, if the bees were to disappear, we wouldn’t have enough food to feed ourselves. And Cora the bee whisperer adds, “In nature everything is bound together, the bees, agriculture….it is a powerful natural force.”

PHOTO BY: ALBA HOLLISTER-RUIZ

Sweet Reward Vieques Honey

JORGE CORA

CARS HAVE AN ENGINE.... AGRICULTURE HAS BEES.

Queen Bee BY SCOTT D. APPELL

In Hollywood, Lucille Ball was once known as “Queen of the Bs” - that is B movies, of course. Much less cinematic but greatly more dramatic is the phenomenon of the queen bee, one that raises some questions. Every hive maintains a single egg-laying female: the queen. How is she elected or selected? What if she suddenly expires due to disease or old age (at 7 years she is considered very old.) What’s a hive to do? Don’t get a bee in your bonnet, honey. Sorry, I couldn’t resist. Here are some insightful tidbits: A queen bee is not elected but selected. Worker bees (who are all identical sisters) choose a larva living in a cell of the waxen honeycomb and immediately feed it a substance called royal jelly – lots of it. It is a protein-rich secretion from glands on the heads of young workers. If not for being heavily fed royal jelly the queen larva would develop into a regular worker bee. They also enlarge her waxen cell to accommodate her future size. .......................... Although the name might imply it, a queen bee does not directly control the hive. Her sole function is to serve as the reproducer. She is capable of laying 1,500 eggs per day during the spring - more than her own bodyweight in eggs every day. She is continuously surrounded by worker bees who meet her every need, giving her food and disposing of her waste. .......................... Incredibly, the queen bee is able to control the sex of the eggs she

lays. The queen lays a fertilized (female) or unfertilized (male) egg according to the width of the cell. Drones are raised in cells that are significantly larger than the cells used for workers. The queen fertilizes the egg by selectively releasing sperm from her spermatheca (her spermretaining organ) as the egg passes through her oviduct. .......................... If the queen should begin to weaken due to disease or old age her attendants, worker bees, always known as “sterile females”, will spontaneously lay eggs. The larvae that hatch from these “emergency” eggs will be fed royal jelly and be raised as the replacement queen. .......................... Frequently more than one replacement queen will hatch at the same time. There ensues a stinging battle to the death until only one queen remains. Unlike worker bees, the queen’s stinger is not barbed and is capable of infinite stiletto-like jabs. Yikes!

There is wide-spread belief that eating local, unprocessed, “raw” honey can help allergy symptoms by regularly exposing you to pollen - not unlike the concept of how allergy shots work. Try a tablespoon or two in your morning cup of tea or coffee. Drizzle it over plain yogurt with a sprinkle of your favorite fresh fruit for a tasty breakfast or snack or use it to sweeten ice tea and lemonade instead of sugar.

breads breakfast pastries quiches a desserts for all occasions

The Green Baked Man Goods

“..awesome food and service” as seen on TripAdvisor.

i n t e r n a t i o n a l

Have your morning breakfast waiting for you at your rental house when you arrive!

call to order

(787)435-6822 Scott D. Appell

viequesgreenman@aol.com

arenamar sunbay café & catering

11am-5pm 11am-5pm with with sunset sunset happy happy hours hours Great Great Food, Food, Vegetarian Vegetarian options options Frappés Frappés and and Frozen Frozen Drinks Drinks

we we deliver deliver on on the the beach! beach!

787-239-7771

Mercado Agricola / Farmer’s Market Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday Martes, Miercoles y Viernes 7am -4pm off of 200 on route 201

AmpliA GAmA de FrutAs & VeGetAles lArGest selection oF Fruits & VeGetAbles best prices / mejores precios

Relax, replenish, rejuvenate

787.741.1178

www.hectorsbythesea.com

Perfect for Large Groups • Sleeps 18 • Stunning 360° Views 3 Houses /8 Bdrms. • Large Pool • Luxury Ammenities

photo by jeffreyfavero.com

850-598-1415 • www.vrbo.com/559826

Largest privately owned estate on Vieques, now available to rent!

El Cerro

esperanza shanklin estate

COOKIES PARADISE Two Unit Villa

Your personal paradise.

2/3 BEDROOM & 4 BEDROOM 2 VEHICLES AVAILABLE TO RENT WITH PROPERTY

305.975.2046 cookiemb1@aol.com www.cookiesparadisevieques.com

Colores del Mar

Villa Borinquen Hillside for sale by owner

$325,000

owner financing available Comfort, Beauty & Oceanside Views

(787) 741-1128 www.bravobeachhotel.com 62

By appointment only 787-435-1313 Ingrid

New construction 2 bedroom 1 +1/2 baths Beautifully landscaped 1.6 acres, Fenced and gated Add-on ready Spacious, fully furnished rooms w/ocean views 2 Decks • 4 person jacuzzi Short walk to the beach

Turn-key with great rental history!

Casa Vieques deVacation

MI CASA ES TU CASA

Rental Sleeps 12

Great for families and pet-friendly. with pool and complimentary vehicle provided.

www.casadevieques.lodgify.com Kate (909) 894-6569

Hacienda Tamarindo The best hotel I have ever stayed at, pure and simple.”

Hospitality...

787-741-8525

it’s our nature.

www.haciendatamarindo.com

p. r.

Open tO the public:

YOga class at Hix Pavilion Daily 9:30am

www.HixIslandHouse.com

787-741-2302

7 BeDRooMs / 6 BaTHRooMs

oCeanFRonT seTTinG

Villa

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Pool / PanoRaMiC VieWs

Hix Island House

Hip, luxurious retreat amidst rustic Zen-like architectural elegance.

HisToRiC isaBel seGUnDa

spontanieques

and the winner of the Feb / March instagram contest is >> Natassja Morales Ruiz 12 grade

I N S T A G R A M C O N T E S T

The authentic â&#x20AC;&#x153;Insiderâ&#x20AC;? view of Vieques is by those who live, work, and play here. Whether enjoying a sunset or bored in math class, these are moments of real island life by people who go to school, go to work, babysit their brother, or are falling in love for the first time.

A M

P R A Y / J

I U

L E

I N STAG R A M

CONTEST Enter your photos of Vieques! Win a Vieques Insider tee shirt! share@viequesinsider.com

787.435.3172

WHERE TO DRINK & DINE AGUACATE 787-615-2320 Sunday & Monday Nights Catered Dinners at Hector’s by the Sea guesthouse. Thursday Nights 6 course prix fixe in villa w/360 degree ocean view. Reservations required. .................................. ARENAMAR CAFÉ 787-239-7771 11am-5pm Everday Great food, frappés, and frozen drinks. Delivery on Sunbay Beach. Sunset happy hours. Café is located inside gate at Sunbay. .................................. AWESOME! YOGURT 787-517-1061 Tues-Thurs 6-9pm Fri & Sat 5-10pm Frozen yogurt, frappes, smoothies, free wifi. Kiosk next to Banco Popular in Isabel II .................................. BELLY BUTTONS 787-741-3336 Open everyday breakfast & lunch 9am-3pm; DinnersThurs-Sun 5-9pm; Paella w/Waldo Wed-6:00-9pm Reservations requested. Beach Restaurant with the island’s best ribs and sandwiches! Ocean views on the quiet side of the Malecón. .................................. BILÍ 787-741-1382 Thurs-Tues 11:00am-10pm weekends open til 11pm Puerto Rican fusion cuisine with local chef Eva Bolivar. Open air and ocean views. On the Malecón Esperanza. .................................. BLUE MOON BAR & GRILL at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Everyday 9am-11pm Sun pasta night 1-9pm Circular artistic hand painted bar. A great place to meet! Open 365 days. ..................................

BUEN PROVECHO 787-529-7316 Mon-Sat 8am - 6pm Deli, Market, Café, Wine & Spirits. Breakfast, lunch and occasional pop-up dinners. Next to Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery in Isabel II. .................................. CARAMBOLA AT THE BLUE HORIZON BOUTIQUE RESORT 787-741-3318 Breakfast 7:00am - 12:00pm Lunch 12 -pm - 3 -pm Dinner 3:00pm - 10pm Great local and international dishes served in Caribbean fashion. Open 365 days. Beautiful, unique setting overlooking the ocean. .................................. CHICKEN KING AND ICE CREAM 787-741-5464 Open everyday. Roasted and fried chicken, hand dipped ice-cream, burgers, sandwiches and more! .................................. CONUCO 787-741-2500 Tues - Sat 5:30 - 9:30pm Cocina Puertorriqueña. Authentic Puerto Rican food in a warm elegant atmosphere. Located in Isabel II across from Banco Popular. .................................. COQUI FIRE CAFÉ 787-741-0401 Mon - Fri 5-9pm Gourmet Mexican food, reservations recommended. Isabel II .................................. DUFFY’S ESPERANZA 787-741-7600 Everyday 11-close Diverse menu and daily specials. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, local fish specials and chef’s specials. On the Malecón Esperanza .................................. EL SOMBRERO VIEJO BAR & LIQUOR STORE 787-741-2416 Everyday 12noon-after midnight. Local bar, hang out and wine cellar. ..................................

It’s high season and the island bars and restaurants are hoppin’!

MAR AZUL SORCÉ AT THE W HOTEL 787-741-3400 787-741-7022 Fri-Mon 10am-close Everyday 7:30-11am Tues-Thurs 3pm-12am Breakfast 1 -3pm Lunch Quality Pub Food / Late Night 6-10pm Dinner. Modern Puerto Snacks. Awesome sunsets Rican cuisine showcasing and cocktails. Karaoke Sat. local produce & seasonal Isabel II up from the ferry. ingredients. Reservations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . requested. All are welcome. .................................. NEXT COURSE 787-741-1028 TAVERNA FRI. - WED. 5:30-10pm 787-438-1100 Caribbean lobster, local marMon-Fri. 5:30-9:30pm ket fish, house dry aged beef, Italian restaurant and pizzeria. .................................. home made pastas. A menu that encompasses American TINBOX cuisine with Caribbean flair 787-741-7700 with something for everyone. Tues-Sat. 5-10pm Happy Hour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-6pm $2 Tacos EL QUENEPO NOCHE Sunday brunch 11-3pm 787-741-1215 787-741-8666 Smokehouse, oysters, daily Mon-Sat 5:30-close Wed -Sun 5-10. Sushi + Martini specials and artisan draft beer. .................................. Handcrafted food and cockBar +Full Eclectic menu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TRADEWINDS tails featuring local, seasonal ingredients. Nightly fresh PLACITA REYES 787-741-8666 offerings from the sea. Farmers Market Fresh Seafood, Steaks, Pasta, Open air dining on the Tues, Wed, & Fri 7am-4pm Paella, and more! Lobster Malecón in Esperanza. intersection of 200 and 201 specials nightly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Happy hour 5-6:30pm HAPPY ICE CREAM SMOKEY’S Dinner 5:30-9:30 Nightly Soft ice-cream kiosk parked in BBQ and Grilll. Ribs, burgers, Breakfast 7:30-11:30 and Isabel II Fri-Sun 4-10pm, and seafood, churrasco, and more. Lunch 11:30-2pm overlooking in Esperanza Sat & Sun 11am- Open everyday 10:30 am the ocean. On the Malecón 4pm. Look for the smiley -10pm. BYOB On rt 200 km 1.7 Esperanza .................................. .................................. face flag! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SMOOTHIE GIRL W CAFÉ AT THE W HOTEL JOSÉ ENRIQUE AT EL BLOK Fresh fruit smoothies across 787-741-7056 787-741-6020 from the ferry everyday. Everyday 7am-3pm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Freshly made smoothies, Sun-Wed Bar: 5pm-12am Restaurant 6-10pm Puerto Rican Coffee and Thurs-Sat Bar:5:00pm-1 am Made to order sandwiches and Restaurant 6-10:30 Gourmet fare – Open to Public Caribbean flavors with locally – all are welcome. .................................. sourced products. Mesquite fired grilled-whole fish, beef & pork porterhouse. Offering whole roasted chickens and a large selection of smaller dishes. .................................. L’MIRADOR at the Blue Horizon insider Boutique Resort tip 787-741-3318 Pizza Fri & Sat 4-11 pm To avoid having to wait at Sunday 1 pm -9 pm Fun, lively setting with ocean a restaurant or worse yet, view. Open 365 days. .................................. not getting a table, please

make reservations.

WHAT TO DO SPECIAL WEEKLY EVENTS EVERYDAY

Happy Hour, Mar Azul, 5-7pm Trade Winds Restaurant Happy Hour 5:00-6:30 Sunset Happy Hour Arenamar Sunbay Café Yoga everyday at W, 8:15 am

Seafood Gala, fry and broil at Tradewinds Restaurant, 5:30-9:30pm Mindful Self Compassion Meditation Class (only Wednesdays in Feb) Sunbay 10-11:15am Pilates Class, Sunbay 10am LAST WED OF EACH MONTH

BY APPOINTMENT

TRX training 315-440-0791

Monthly birthday party at El Sombrero Viejo, 7pm

TUESDAY-SUN

THURSDAY

Vinasa Yoga w/Jennifer, at Hix Island House’s Yoga Pavillion, 9:30am TUESDAY-SAT

Yoga with Maureen Harrison, Hills of Monte Carmelo, Sunset 5pm $12 787-556-5025 TUES, WED & FRI

Farmer’s Market 8am-4pm on Route 201 intersecting with Route 200 MONDAY

Kripalu Yoga with Valerie Sunbay 9:30 am Rotary Meetings check www.rotaryvieques. com for time and location Mediterranean & Middle Eastern Catered Oceanfront Dinner @ Hector’s by the Sea, happy hour at 5pm limited seating, 787-615-2320 TUESDAY

$12.99 Dinners at Mar Azul, 5-9pm Play Date Get the kids together in Esperanza Park 3-5pm WEDNESDAY

Paella night w/ Waldo, Belly Buttons 6-9pm, reservations requested 787.741.3336

Game Night at El Sombrero Viejo, 7pm Throwback Thursday at Conuco. Chef Rebecca Betancourt brings back one of her classic dishes. Bomba class with Erika. 7pm Esperanza Biblioteca Electronica

Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm SATURDAY

Pizza Nights- Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm Karaoke at Mar Azul, 10pm Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm SUNDAY

Paella Special at Tradewinds Pasta Nights,Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 1pm - 9pm Oceanfront Dining at Hector’s by the Sea, Sunset Happy Hour 5-6:30 www. aguacatecatering. com Belly Buster Dinner Night, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm

Aguacate Dinner at Hix designed villa $65 limited seating, 787-615-2320

Sunday Funday Jr. Get the kids together @ Sunbay 12-4pm

Meditation Class with Maureen Harrison, Hills of Monte Carmelo 7:30am $20/includes breakfast. Call to reserve 787-556-5025

Quaker Worship Group 10 AM Villa Borinquen 732 713 5047.

Mexican Night, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm 787.741.3336 Kripalu Yoga with Valerie Sunbay 9:30 am Positive Psychology Workshop (only Thursdays in Feb) Gallery Galleon 3-4:30pm FRIDAY

Lobster Specials at Tradewinds, 787 741-8666 Live Music & Open Jam, Mar Azul 9pm-1am, Pizza Nights, Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm 787.741.3318

Mediterranean & Middle Eastern Catered Oceanfront Dinner @ Hector’s by the Sea, happy hour at 5pm limited seating, 787-615-2320 Last Sunday of each month Concert with municipal band 6pm on the terrace at El Fortín Conde de Mirasol Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm

CALENDAR OF EVENTS All through Feb • Gallery Galleon presents HORSES, a show to benefit the welfare of the horses on the island. Funds will be donated to the organizations helping animals on the island. Open 7 days 11-5PM All through Feb • Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery presesnts Bernardo Medina Colón. Open Mon-Sat 10-4, Sun 11-3pm Fri Feb 6 • El Concierto en la Plaza Salsa band, urban music, and food kiosks 7pm. For more information call 787-531-1838 Tues Feb 3 and Thurs March 5 • Full Moon Drum Circle Bring a chair and a drum or percussion instrument/ or just bring yourself... NO experience necessary! All about Fun and rhythm and the moon and the beach. Come Drum! 6-8pm Tues Feb 1o • Vieques Concert Society Latin Jazz with Edgart Abraham, W Retreat & Spa, 7pm, $75 tickets available at Funky Beehive and W Retreat & Spa Sat Feb 14 • Valentines Day Dinner at Carambola. Live music. $45 per person, seatings at 6, 8, and 10pm. Reserve now! 787.741.3318 Vieques Baila, Valentine Dance at the Colieo in Isabel II, 5pm, admission free. Dancing, food, entertainment for all! All are welcome. Fri Feb 27 • Gallery Galleon presents Michael and Colin McGuire. Opening 5:30-7:30 Sun March 14 • Navy League Pig Roast Noon Sunbay $35 members, $40 Nonmembers, $15 children Tickets for sale at La Lanchita, Funky

Beehive, and Vieques Gifts 732-983-1130 Thurs March 19 • Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery presents the Annual 12 x 12 Show to benifit Vieques Humane Society. 6-8pm Fri March 27 • Gallery Galleon presents Above and Below Photography. Opening 5:30-7:30 April 17-18 • Cultural Festival at El Fortín Conde de Mirasol

VIEQUES CONSERVATION AND HISTORICAL TRUST EVENTS PLAYA GRANDE TOUR 9:00am – 12:00pm meet at VCHT/FCHV Feb 5 Feb 19 March 5 March 19 April 2 BIRD WALK / 7:00am 10:00am Feb 10 March 10 Wed. Feb 4 • Dinner 5-6 pm, Celebrating The Trust at el Blok Wed. Feb 18 • 4:00pm – 6:00pm Annual Meeting of the membership – Secretary of DRNA guest speaker / Clare Mowbray Photography Show Thurs. March 12 • 9:00am- 1:00pm House Tour – meet at VCHT/ FCHV

AA(ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS) 787 741 0639 Mon. & Tues • Open Mtg 5:30pm Esperanza/ Bldg. behind the Trust-Malecon Weds • 6pm Open Mtg Behind Catholic Church /Isabel II Thurs. • 8:30am Playa Gallito/Gringo Beach Open Mtg Fri. • 6pm Closed Mtg Behind Catholic Church Isabel II Sat & Sun • 10:30am Open Mtg. Behind Catholic Church Isabel II ALANON (FRIENDS AND FAMILY OF ALCOHOLICS) 207.869.0925

Weds • 9am Behind Catholic Church Isabel II NA(NARCOTICS ANONYMOUS) 508 873 4576 Thurs 6pm Behind Catholic Church Isabel II 67

PHOTO BY: GRACE COOK

SOUTH SHORE BEACHES PUBLIC BEACHES * -GATE $2 ........................................................

SUNBAY* Accessible by the gated entrance off 997, Sunbay is a one mile stretch of beach. Sunbay has lifeguards and bathhouse. The entrance is 5 miles from Isabel II and 0.7 miles from Esperanza (the Malecon). There is a $2 entrance fee. ........................................................

MEDIA LUNA* Enter the gated en-

trance off 997. Follow the dirt road at the end of Sunbay and travel 0.6 more miles to Media Luna. Great for small children, Media Luna is shallow. You can walk 30 ft out into the water and still be in waist deep water. Also, for a free “spa experience,” enjoy an exfoliation from the silky, fine sand. ........................................................

you can also park at Media Luna and walk to Navío. Go into the cave on the left side of the beach (if facing the water) for an excellent photo spot! There’s good surf so bring your boogie board! ........................................................

BEACHES ON THE VIEQUES FISH AND WILDLIFE REFUGE* For reference, Sol Food is parked right in front of the entrance to the FWS Refuge ........................................................

ESPERANZA BEACH To the east

Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to a sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1.5 more miles. No shade except for picnic gazebos in the grass area. Watch out for the sandburs! (see below). Be very careful where you step when you are in the grassy area and kids should wear their shoes down to the sand (or water’s edge). Note: Only park in the parking lot, and not in the cul-de-sac at the very end, to avoid fines. ........................................................

and west of the fishing piers in Esperanza. ........................................................

PLAYA GRANDE Leave Esperanza on 996 going west and come to a T (rt. 201). Take a left. Go 1 mile to where the road dead ends and take a left. Follow road to the bottom of the hill. Take a right onto dirt road to find a beach spot. Great beach for walking. Playa Grande is a turtle nesting beach so be sure to keep dogs on a leash and watch out for roped off nests. ........................................................

PLAYA NEGRA (BLACK SAND BEACH) Leave Esperanza on 996 going

CARACAS* From 997, turn into the FWS

PLAYUELA* From 997, turn into the

FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to the brown sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1 mile to brown sign for Playuela and Tres Palmitas. Turn right and drive 2 minutes to the sign and take the walking path to the left to get to the beach. A short walk and you’re there!

west. Come to T (201) and take left. Drive 0.1 mile and there will be a guard rail and small pull off on your left. Park here. [It is easier to turn around if you drive 100 feet more to Gallery Galleon and turn around in drive just past entrance to Gallery.] Walk down the path to the dried stream bed and follow to the right.It is about a 20 minute walk to the beach. If it has for the Coast rained, stream bed will actually Sandbur be a small stream. Bring bug very prevelant spray and water. at Caracas and Pata Prieta and painful to step on.

Watch out!

NAVIO* Follow directions to Media Luna but pass Media Luna and take a left at the sign and go another 0.3 miles. The road is extremely rough and 4wd is required but

........................................................

EL GALLITO Pass the W on 200 going

......................................................

PATA PRIETA* From 997, turn into

west and look for a parking area and short peninsula on your right. The beach is on the right. Great place to be at sunset! Excellent photo spot! ........................................................

BLAYDIN BEACH OR MOSQUITO BEACH Follow direc-

the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles. Pass turn to Caracas and continue straight on dirt road for aprox 1 mile and turn right at Pata Prieta sign. After 0.2 miles, follow the road to the right to a small parking area with sign. Walk down the (slippery) gravel path to the left of the sign to the beach. Rough road so 4wd is recommended. Bring a beach umbrella as there is little shade! ........................................................

EL PARQUE CEIBA Go west on 201 aproximately 1 mile past the airport and follow the sharp curve to the right.Go down a small hill and the Ceiba tree is on your right. Enjoy the Ceiba tree without climbing, marking or damaging the roots. ........................................................

LA CHIVA* From 997, turn into the

ROMPEOLAS Follow directions to the

LA PLATA* Follow directions to La

. .

FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles to the end of the paved road. Pass the sign for Caracas and continue straight on the dirt road. La Chiva has numbered spots #1-21. At marker #15 the road splits so stay right if you want to explore La Chiva spots #16-21. ........................................................ Chiva but when road splits take left and go 0.5 miles to reach La Plata. ........................................................

NORTH SHORE BEACHES SEA GLASS BEACH Drive into Isabel II on 200 and make a left onto main street (Calle Muñoz Rivera). Almost at the end of the street you will see an intersection with a church on your right. Make a left here and at the next intersection make a right. Park on the street (not in the yellow!) and walk to the left of the gazebo down a path to the beach. .............................

Ceiba tree but pass the Ceiba and continue on the main road to the left.Take the next right at the empty concrete structure with parking lot and this road will take you to the pier. Rompeolas pier is 1 mile long so it is great for beginning joggers or walkers! Great snorkeling on the left side of the pier.

tions to the pier but right before going out onto the pier there is a small sandy road to the left that leads to a shallow beach. There are lots of starfish here so be very careful where you step! ........................................................

PUNTA ARENAS Follow directions to Rompeolas but go past turn for pier and drive aproximately 2 miles. You will come to a sign that says you are entering FWS Refuge. Drive 1 mile and come to a T / there are spots to the left and to the right with the best snorkeling to your left. Much of Punta Arenas has eroded away so, in many places, there is not a beach to sit on until further down on the right. No-see-ums tend to come out in the afternoon so make it a morning excursion and bring your bug spray! ........................................................

BUNKERS To see the hidden Navy bunkers follow directions to Rompeolas but keep straight past the turn for pier. Drive 2 miles and take the second paved road to the left. This road is a short loop that will bring you back to the same road. IF YOU DON’T HAVE TIME TO EXPLORE THEM ALL, THESE ARE INSIDER FAVORITES!

LA CHATA Drive by the ferry on your left and go up the steep hill to the right of El Yaté Bar. Go by the lighthouse on your left and take the next right down a steep little hill. Curve to your left and follow along this shoreline road. Pass La Lanchita on left and drive aproximately 0.35 miles to a left turn onto a small dirt drive with two palms and large rocks at the end. La Chata! Keep your eyes open for sea glass. Many people come here to exercise their horse. Don’t be surprised if you are swimming with horses! ........................................................

Fill Up or Top Off! During high season [Thanksgiving through Easter] and holidays the two gas stations on the island routinely run out of gas. The gas trucks come on the ferry so it can be a long wait if you run out, sometimes up to 45 minutes! So if the lines at the station are not long, stop in. When it is busy the lines form in one direction only and sometimes go around the block. So if you see an empty spot at the pump, before pulling in, check to see if there is a line coming from the opposite direction. Go with cash, they don’t take debit or credit cards. Fix a Flat Pick one of these up at any convenience store or gas station on the island and save yourself a lot of trouble. Flats happen and usually not in the most convenient places. Just connect, inflate and go! It will only seal temporarily so call your rental company for directions on where to go to get it fixed. Leave No Trace Remember to leave the beach just as you found it. If you or your children dig holes or make sand castles, level the sand before you go. Many beaches are turtle nesting beaches and baby sea turtles can get stuck in a hole or diverted by sand mounds on their way to the ocean.

PATA PRIETA

Cell Service at the Beach If you are hoofing it and do not have a rental car, hire a publico to take you to the less accessible beaches. Remember to arrange a pick up time before you leave the publico because cell service isn’t available at many of the beaches! Publico numbers are listed on page 35. 69

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Isabel II (locals refer to as “town”)

VIEQUES

4 miles

996

Esperanza 21 miles

For A List Of Our Holiday Special Event Menu’s Visit ViequesInsider.com/Events Opens Daily for :

An Island Restaurant

Breakfast 7:00am to 12:00pm Lunch 12:00pm to 3:00pm Dinner 3:00pm to 10:00pm Blue Moon Bar & Grill

An Island Rendezvous

Opens Daily from. 9:00am to 11:00pm

Holiday Special Events: 4th of July Labor day Columbus day Thanksgiving

Ocean Front Barefoot Elegance

L'Mirador Opens Fridays and Saturdays From 4:00pm to 11:00pm Sundays From 1:00pm to 9:00pm

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