insider
A P R I L / M AY / J U N E • 2 0 1 5 vol. 1 issue 4 • 787.435.3172
[V I E Q U E S ]
CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES
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O N T H E WA T E R
FISHING VIEQUES pg. 25-29 WHEN
LORD OF THE FLIES
CAME TO VIEQUES p g . 4 7- 4 9
1
2
Island ambience ambience. Amazing food food.
Next Course
c u i s i n e i n s p i r e d b y t r av e l
sample ........menu Pan seared jumbo Scallops, wild mushroom duxelle, potato nest, white truffle drizzle, pancetta dust Maple Leaf Duck confit, flat bread tartine, mission fig compote, shoe string shallots, smoked crème fresh
Open friday – wednesday 5:30 pm – 10 pm Closed Thursday
House dry aged beef Carpaccio, mixed greens, pickled red onion, capers, grain mustard Caesar, Parmigiano Reggiano In house dry aged beef cut of the day, herb butter, twice baked potato pie, grilled tomato confit
Starting in May closed Wednesdays & Thursdays
Butter poached Caribbean lobster, white truffle scented crab risotto, prosciutto bound asparagus, caramelized fennel cream.
787-741-1028
Salads, light appetizers, and tapas too!
Reservations Appreciated
3
TO-DO:
RELAXING WITH A VIEW.
From Kona on the Big Island of Hawai’i, Sarah Lee is incessantly glued to camera viewfinders, DaFiNs, and the sea. Her passion for photography, particularly underwater and surf photography was shaped by a childhood where she was constantly playing in and around the ocean. As a long-distance swimmer and surfer, her strength as an athlete in the ocean and tide allows her to capture swimmers and surfers in the special way she does beneath the sea. “My aim in making photos is to capture and accentuate the beauty in what surrounds me. Photography to me is a mode of visual problem solving and a way to perpetuate the stoke, whether it be above the surface or below.” Currently, she is located in Encinitas, California.
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RAINBOW REALTY AND VIEQUES ON NEW CARIBBEAN LIFE TV SERIES! Show times on our website and Facebook page! Two Houses, on separate lots, on Rte 200 in Martineau, between Isabel and the airport! 12 acres of rolling farm/grazing/developable, nicely maintained, land ...already subdivided in 4 lots with fantastic accesses! Gorgeous views from a back corner to build the dream house...barn, trailer, golf carts... and YES...an Iguana Pond! NOT kidding! Many options...could be a farm, rentals, any kind of commercial development... Keep parts, sell off others... How about a pitch and putt and driving range or a 3 hole executive golf setup?... Condos?...Hotel?... Restaurant... Combo? Great location and exposure. $875,000.
Experienced and Knowledgeable Brokers... Land, cOmmeRciaL and ResidenTiaL ReaL esTaTe saLes
PLUS VACATION AND LONG TERM RENTALS! Office Hours: Tues-saT 8am-2pm and by appOinTmenT Office:
787.741.4312 cell: 787.435.2063 email: rainbowvqs@gmail.com 278 flamboyan esperanza Gustavo marin, broker 787.225.5604 (Lic 9905) Lin Wetherby, Owner broker 787.380 4990 (Lic 7941)
www.viequesrainbowrealty.com
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HOuSE Of SPIRITS Desirable , private and quiet, Puerto Real. 5 Mins to Esperanza or a black sand beach access. Amazing spacious 4/3, well maintained home on a full manicured acre, with gorgeous views! Designer kitchen and baths with fabulous interior and exterior space and flow. In addition: huge cistern, outside showers, garage, AC, Gym space, electric and plumbing fully upgraded. Room for a pool and can support expansion of a second floor. Price just REDuCED to $549,000 !
Vieques...the land of opportunity!
puerto Rico offers huge tax haven and exemptions! call us! https://www.facebook.com/viequesrainbowrealty
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EDITOR, PUBLISHER
KELLY THOMPSON
ASSISTANT EDITOR
TOM O’GRADY
WEB MASTER ART DIRECTION / DESIGN
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR ................................ In d iv id ua lly Pack ag ed P ic k les
While I was at college I had friends who, during their courtship, would give each other the oddest thing they found that day. It could be a flattened Barbie doll head they found on the road or bacon flavored breath mints from the candy shelf of a gas station in the middle of Pennsylvania. It was a game – a game that turned into an approach to life. Spot the oddities that make you smile and laugh; seek out the fun and interesting, and sometimes, yes, the strangely appealing. You just had to train your mind to look for them. And have fun! At Vieques Insider, finding “fun and interesting” is what we play at. Delivering it to you is what we work at. We are constantly seeking the interesting, the unusual and, with the benefit of time, the things that teach us something. The odd things we find now urge us, with that same sense of quirky pleasure, to follow and question them. And the things become stories, and the stories become adventures, and the adventures become our gifts to share, to connect us. Like a message in a bottle or pieces of tile, washed up on the shore. I am lucky to have such a great core team of seekers here. Their enthusiasm for this fun game equals mine, and I couldn’t ask for a better group with whom to work. They love Vieques as much as I do and want to share it with you. I thank all of the writers and contributors from this past year and give special thanks to the core team of writers, Scott, José, Tom K, Cynthia, and Tom O, that have been on this journey from the beginning. There are great things to come! P.S. This is the fourth issue of Vieques Insider and we are now one year old. Happy Anniversary to us!
GENERAL ASSISTANT
MARC MARGATE KELLY THOMPSON CHEO DIAZ MALDONADO
787.435.3172
WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM info@viequesinsider.com
ON THE COVER
Kids will be Kids... Right? ...................................................................................
But sometimes they take you by surprise. Sometimes they even teach us a thing or two. For one recent, life-changing week that’s exactly what happened. On March 9th, twelve high school students from the New Hampton School in New Hampshire touched down on Viequense soil. Travelling lightly they carried big intentions of learning about Vieques post-Navy, discovering real ecotourism and pursuing what it means to be a global citizen. Author Mark Gerzon, a global leadership champion, claims the journey toward global citizenship begins when we open our eyes. Fortunately, these students accepted all that Vieques graciously offered with eyes wide open. In doing so, they opened themselves up to the possibility of seeing Vieques for who she really is in all of her beauty and pain. And beauty unfolded during this very special week. Vieques youth from Reach for Success met their counterparts from up north with open arms, and artificial walls and boundaries that so often divide were dismantled and crossed. The two groups embraced one another, shared deeply with each other, laughed and played together and learned that any differences they possess are far outweighed by all they have in common. With any luck, you’ll see the physical representation of this genuine partnership slung over the shoulders of locals and tourists alike. It’s a reusable grocery bag bearing the phrase Yo ♥ Vieques that the kids distributed to businesses, residents and tourists. When you find yourself elated by the cover of this magazine realize that it is not some random group of kids pulled together for a “fun” photo op. Instead, you are seeing the culmination of a consciousness raising week in Vieques, a week that taught us all a bit more about what happens when we come together with open eyes, minds, hearts and hands. It was a week that gave us a powerful snapshot of all that is possible when walls are torn down, boundaries crossed and bridges built connecting people all around the world. These kids demonstrated that there is reason to have hope, our future is in good hands. And they had fun doing it. We humans have the power to create a world that is truly just, and a sustainable future has never been more possible. Like these young people we can open our eyes, our minds, our hearts and hands. We might just be surprised by what following their example can teach us.
Kelly Thompson BY: TIM LITTLE Chaperone New Hampshire School 8
CO N T R I B U TO R S
Scott D. Appell, the Green Man, originally from NYC, is a garden writer, horticultural taxonomist and ethnobotanist. He writes, gardens, and teaches horticulture. He happens to be a professional baker as well.
IF YOU LIKE VIEQUES INSIDER HAVE IT DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR! SUBCRIBE ONLINE AT
José Carrasquillo, has lived in Vieques for 10 years. Stateside he’s a theatre director and educator. Here in paradise José is the co-owner of a guesthouse, works as a volunteer for not-for-profit organizations, and logs hundreds of miles every year running all over Vieques. Elaine Gurian, is a museum consultant from Arlington, Virginia who has wintered in Vieques for the last 27 years. Her photographs focus on the exquisite details of nature and architecture. She is also a collector of found objects washed up on the beaches of Vieques. Read about her surprising discovery on page 57! Tom Kirkbright, a USCG Licensed Captain, and his wife Caroline first set foot on Vieques in 2004. They fell in love with its people, beaches and charm. They bought a house and moved from NJ to enjoy the island life and spend time “On The Water”.
WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM
$25
PLUS $15 FOR SHIPPING AND HANDLING THE NEXT ISSUE [JULY-OCT] WILL INCLUDE THE VIEQUES BEACH GUIDE – AN IN-DEPTH LOOK AT THE VARIETY OF BEACHES SNORKELING AND SCUBA SPOTS SAILING TRIPS THE BIOLUMINISCENT BAY AND MORE!
787-435-3172
Sara Lee, photographer from Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii, visits Vieques on a side trip from shooting for www.alisonsadventures.com and teams up with Vieques Insider for fantastic beach and water shots. Sara’s athleticism as a surfer and long distance swimmer allows her to capture underwater shots in a unique way. Tune in to the next issue for more! Cynthia Nicholson came to Vieques over 20 years ago and was immediately smitten with its wild beauty. Cynthia has served as an editor, producer, and writer for many national publications such as Cooking Light, Country Living, and Real Simple. For the past several years she has developed her passions for food, wine and travel into her own business: consulting and hosting custom food and wine-purposed curated excursions to Sicily, North Africa, and other Mediterranean destinations. Tom O’Grady Jr. is an author and freelance writer from Philadelphia with literature and writing degrees from Temple University (B.A.) and Rutgers University (M.A.). Tom has written in numerous commercial genres including business and training, marketing and advertising and newspaper and magazine features. He has focused on writing fiction for the last five years and has published three novels, all available on Amazon.com and select stores. He lives on Vieques with his wife, Liz, where he is currently writing a fourth novel.
!MUCHAS GRACIAS VIEQUES!
FOR ONE WEEK YOU OPENED YOUR HEARTS & EXTENDED YOUR HANDS TO HELP US. OUR EYES HAVE BEEN OPENED & YOU HELPED US TO WAKE UP. BECAUSE OF YOU & YOUR GRACIOUSNESS, OUR LIVES HAVE BEEN CHANGED. WE HAVE HOPE FOR OUR FUTURE KNOWING THAT THIS IS OUR TIME & THAT WE MUST BE THE CHANGE WE WANT TO SEE. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE BECAUSE YOUR LIFE WAS CHANGED TOO & THE WHOLE WORLD IS BETTER OFF BECAUSE OF IT! NOTHING BUT LOVE FOR YOU ALL U TIL NEXT TIME! ♥ BEKKA, TIM, GRACIE, DANNY, MAGGIE, MONIQUE, NICOLAI, SOPHIA, KATSCHI, ASA, BELLA, GIOTTY, BRETT, & MAX 9
Programa de JUNToS
Leyendo y SaLvando vidaS ReadinG To Save LiveS
Por cada libro que un ni単o lea un dolar sera donado al Vieques Humane Society. Apuntate para ser auspiciador hoy. Apurate que la biblioteca esta llena de ni単os y el albergue lleno de animales. For every book a child reads, one dollar is donated to the Vieques Humane Society. Sign up to be a sponsor today. Hurry, the library is already full of children, the shelter full of animals.
juntosvieques.org 787/556-9030 10
(787) 981 - 4109
info@FinTimeAdventures.com
BOOK NOW (787) 981 - 4109 or online www.FinTimeAdventures.com
The A Unique Caribbean Inn v 1 5 s t u d i o a pa r t m e n t s a n d s u i t e s v Equipped kitchenettes, Pool overlooking the east coast of Puerto Rico Friendly bilingual staff, Rate includes continental breakfast on canopied garden patio, Beach necessities provided free of charge, TV, AC, WiFi
Best value on Vieques! crowsnestvqs@gmail.com Facebook: The Crow’s Nest
787.741.0033
www.crowsnestvieques.com
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SJU San Juan International SIG Isla Grande Airport
FAJARDO PUERTO RICO
FLIGHT OR FERRY?
Fly from San Juan International (SJU) to VQS 30 minute flight, starting at $109 one way www.capeair.com www.viequesairlink.com www.airsunshine.com www.mnaviation.com (Charter flights-$1,200 each way seats 9) Fly from Isla Grande Airport (SIG) to VQS 17 minute flight, 10 minute cab ride from SJU-aprox. $20 trip (not per person) Airfare starting at $72 one way www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com Fly from Ceiba Airport (RVR) to VQS 7 minute flight Aprox 1hr cab ride from San Juan to Ceiba $100 trip (not per person) plus airfare starting at $34 one way / 7 minute flight Note: Publico Vans are located right outside baggage claim at SJU and can seat up to 10-12 people. www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com San Juan International (SJU) to Fajardo Ferry to Vieques 1 hour cab ride + 1.5 hour ferry ride 1 hour cab ride to Fajardo ferry port $100 (aprox) • Ferry ticket $2 Vans can seat up to 10 people. Cost is per trip, not per person. [ Be prepared to wait or possibly be bumped if ferry is full! Vieques residents are seated first. It is not uncommon for the ferry to be late]
good to know
Publico = Taxi Van
Isabel II (locals refer to as “town”)
VIEQUES
4 miles
getting here
TAKE WARM CLOTHES ON THE FERRY!
RVR Ceiba Airport
IT’S COLDER THAN NY IN DEC. WELL, ALMOST
Esperanza 21 miles
SOME AIRLINES CHARGE $1 PER POUND FOR LUGGAGE OVER 25 POUNDS
ferry schedule
Fajardo to Vieques 4:00 am (only Mon-Fri) 9:00 am 1:00 pm 4:45 pm 8:15 pm Vieques to Fajardo 6:00 am 6:30 am (only Fri, Sat & Sun) 11:00 am 3:00 pm 6:30 pm
MARINE TRAFFIC APP
displays near real-time positions of ships and ferries worldwide. Check if the ferry has left Fajardo or Vieques and where it is en route!
Schedule subject to change. Non-residents can be bumped if ferry is full.
safety tips
Many visitors think that Vieques is a sleepy, laid back island where you can lay in your hammock on the beach without a care in the world. For the most part, this is true. But petty theft is everywhere and your vacation can end badly without some precaution and common sense. Follow some safety tips and always be aware of your surroundings and belongings. ALWAYS lock the doors where you are staying. Period. First floor, second floor, every door.
DON’T leave a cell phone or iPad charging next to an open window. Never leave house keys next to a window.
Malecon = Esplanade or boardwalk (oceanfront Esperanza)
DON’T take valuables to the beach.
NEVER leave valuables unattended.
No-see-ums = sandflies that come out at sunset-and they bite!
DON’T lock your car at the beach. Leave it open with nothing in it.
USE COMMON SENSE when walking around at night. Never walk on the beaches alone after dark.
Buen Provecho = Enjoy your meal!
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The company with the newest and largest fleet. And great prices!
Maritza’s Car rental
Vieques Car rental 787.741.1037 viequescarrental@gmail.com
Convenient online booking! Vehicles for all price ranges.
www.viequescarrental.com
www.maritzascarrental.com Courtesy Van Service Largest, Newest fleet on the island
A Twist or a Tap If your car won’t start when leaving the beach, before panicking, first check your battery cable connections. On rough roads they tend to bounce and loosen. Tighten them up or give them a tap and try again!
2015 Jeeps (four door and two door) Locally owned and operated Durangos offered for large groups
We ta ke p ri d e in yo u r ri d e.
787-741
0078
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Welcome to Vieques where fun is mandatory
20
NOCHE DE SAN JUAN
traditions
22-23
SCULPTED SIMPLICITY
island home
25-29
FISHING ON VIEQUES
on the water
36-37
A SLEEPING G I A N T AWA K E N S
history
38-39
E N T R E P R E N EU R I A L S P I R I T O F I VA N TORRES ORTÍZ
vieques watch
42-43
WHERE THERE’S A WILL THERE’S A WAY
music of Will Colon
47-49
LORD OF THE FLIES
summer of ‘61
50-51
M E S SAG E I N A BOT TLE
adventure
57
TIMELESS CONNECTIONS
small world
PHONE DIRECTORY 32-33 RESTAURANT GUIDE 60 EVENT CALENDAR 61 BEACH GUIDE 62-63 14 14
Trade Winds on THE MaLECon in ESPERanza
s o d ev ni
Serving spectacular views with fine food since 1984
B
ien
KKKKK
Lobster Special nightly KKKKK
Relax and Enjoy
With The Best View Of The Caribbean Sea HAPPY HOUR drink specials 5 to 6:30
Bar Bar & & Grill Grill
Enjoy Enjoy Outdoor Outdoor Dining Dining & & Spectacular Spectacular Caribbean Caribbean Sunsets Sunsets at at the the laid laid back back end end of of the the Malecon Malecon
Open Every Day! ..................... .....................
Belly Belly Warming Warming Breakfasts Breakfasts 9am 9am -- 11am 11am
..................... .....................
Belly Belly Busting Busting lunches lunches 11am 11am -- 3pm 3pm Enjoy Enjoy Breakfast Breakfast & & Order Order Your Your Beach Beach Lunch Lunch to to Go! Go!
Wednesday - Sunday ..................... .....................
Belly Belly Busting Busting Dinners Dinners 5pm 5pm -- 9pm 9pm W/Feature W/Feature Menus Menus Including Including BBQ BBQ Night Night
Best sandwiches ! on the malecon
OutstanDing OutstanDing Ocean Ocean VieWs VieWs hanD hanD DippeD DippeD ice ice cream cream
weD. paella night 6pm - 8:30pm Reservations Encouraged
GREAT FOOD! GREAT PEOPLE! GREAT PLACE!
Dinner
Choice Tenderloin Filet Fresh Fish and Seafood Vegetarian Entrees Seafood Gala on Wednesdays Paella on Sundays EVERY NIGHT 5:30 - 9:30
Breakfast/ lunch
K
Lobster Benedict “Mary and The Boys” Salads Galore Huevos Rancheros Fish & Chips BREAKFAST 7:30-11:30 LUNCH 11:30-2:00
seaside Guest house & Gift shop Great location • Walk to the beach $90 - $115 double a/c • breakfast included Gift shop open every day at 9am
CHECK oUT oUR MEnU anD SPECiaLS aT:
www.tradewindsvieques.com
college/pro Football & other sporting events on the belly Up bar Deck
787.741.3336 www.bellybuttonsvieques.com on the malecon, esperanza
wi-fi Visa/MC/DisCoVer
787.741.8666
aLWaYS CHiLDREn FRiEnDLY tradewindsvieques@gmail.com 15
Vieques Cultural Festival 38th Year APRIL 17-18, 2015
38vo FESTIVAL CULTURAL VIEQUENSE 17-18 DE ABRIL DEL 2015
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THURSDAY • JUEVES 7PM Book presentation: Isla Nena (Vieques), There’s Lots More to be Done, By Julio Muriente Presentación del libro, Isla Nena, queda mucho por hacer de Julio Muriente
17
FRIDAY • VIERNES 7PM
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Artesan and Vieques Book Fair • Feria de Artesania y Libros Viequenses
7:00PM
7:30 Opening Actos de Apertura Hon. Victor Emeric, Alcalde (Mayor) Jorge Irizarry, Exec. Dir. ICP •
Festival Organizing Committee Comité Organizador FCV 7:45 Will Colón and his Steel band banda de acero
•
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8:15 Dedication acts in honor of Justina Corcino Camacho, ex employee of the Fort Count Mirasol Museum • Dedicatoria a Justina Corcino Camacho, ex trabajadora del Museo Fuerte Conde de Mirasol, ICP Vieques 8:30 Vieques Municipal Band Banda Municipal de Vieques • Vieques Bomba Group: Bomba Oasis
SATURDAY • SÁBADO
Artesan and Vieques Book Fair • Feria de Artesania y Libros Viequenses 7:30 Bomba dance presentation (Afro Caribbean Dance) Boys & Girls Clubs Vieques and Loiza • Boys and Girls Club de Vieques /Loiza: baile de bomba 7:45 Russian folkloric guitar Guitarra folklórica rusa 8:00PM Juvenile String Orchestra of Vieques and Humacao Rondalla de Vieques y de Humacao 9:15 Afro Caribbean Dance Group • Desde Cero (grupo de bomba) 10:00 Banda Musical Cafezz (Jazz)
10:00
11:00
PR Folkloric dance troupe • Balet Folklórico Guamanique
Salsa and other PR Genres from Culebra • Son de Culebra
11:00 Balajú (Salsa and other PR genres)
El Fortin Conde Mirasol For more information call 787-741-1717
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email: info@viequesrealtyandrentals.com
J U LI E D E C HTE R
787-209-8868
OWNER/BROKER #11261 SE HABLA ESPANOL
www.viequesrealtyandrentals.com
Casa vanessa This newly constructed 3 bed/2 bath home is perched on the breezy hillside in the quiet neighborhood of Monte Carmelo, just waiting for your finishing touches. It boasts incredible views of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, as well as the mountainous rain forest on the main island of Puerto Rico, making it the ideal vantage point to experience the Caribbeans renowned tropical sunsets. Untitled $245,000
MarryMe Flores Vieques Weddings
Florista
Experts at planning, organizing and orchestrating weddings and events to match your vision and dreams.
202-276-8601
MarryMeVieques@gmail.com
Flowers and custom bouquets for every occasion.
Toda La Casa Home Decor Household items, dishes, kitchenware, lamps, and much, much more!
202-276-8601 787.236.7224
floresvieques2014@gmail.com
Looking for a life change? Here’s an opportunity to own a thriving business in a great location. Stop in to Toda La Casa in Isabel and talk to Marilyn today!
NAMES, IDENTITY, AND HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE During the time of the U.S. Navy occupation of Vieques the beaches were renamed based on colored flags placed on them for training exercises. Set in motion by elders and community leaders from Vieques the effort is underway to reclaim the former names of the beaches and restore their cultural significance and longevity. Internet sites and publications still use the Navy names of beaches and you will hear many islanders still using the English names as well. But while you are here, please paint the mental map in your mind with the original Spanish names. The English names are listed on the right for your reference to the pull out map on the inside back cover. Thank you for participating in this milestone effort by honoring and using the original Spanish names of the beautiful beaches of Vieques.
HISTORICAL NAMES Former U.S. Navy Names CARACAS Red Beach
LA PLATA Orchid Beach
PLAYUELA Garcia Beach
PUNTA ARENAS Green Beach
PATA PRIETA Secret Beach
CAMPAĂ‘A Purple Beach
LA CHIVA Blue Beach
MATIAS Yellow Beach
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DELI MARKET CATERING WINE & SPIRITS
Monday 8am-4pm Tuesday -Saturday 8am-6pm Isabel segunda
For provisioning requests please call
787.529.7316 LooK foR ouR PoP uP DINNERS!
787-741-4661 or find us on facebook!
he
any • t mp
Come ride or stay with us!
ieque s
ding co ri
Sunset or daytime rides on the beach with memorable views to St.Thomas and Culebra.
lv
origin a
& HORSEBACK RIDING
Riding with SeaGate helps support our animal and horse rescue efforts.
www.seagatehotel.com
Private & small groups by appointment only.
Se Nos Vá la Muebleria Nueva A Teo y Elsa Les desamos lo mejor en su retiro, muchos momentos de amor con sus nietos y nuevas aventuras en la tierra grande de la isla mayor. No olviden su terruño ni sus humildes amigos que acá dejan. Ha sido un honor ser amigo de ustedes. No se pierdan. Ileana, Waldo, Vilma, Jorgé, Paco, Shirley, Norma, Manolo, Tony, Hector, Zoe, Andre, Jorgé, Elba, Margie, Pedro, Candi
SeaGate Hotel offers very comfortable lodging at an affordable price!
E x p E r i E n c E
v i e q u e s
w i t h i n n o vat i o n D M C We provide unique destination services customized to fit your needs.
destination services Transportation Tours Event Production Offsite Venues Teambuilding Dinearounds
T: 787.215.3287 or 787.925.2145 E: info@innovationdmc.com www.innovationdmc.com
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Banana Wind Bravos House Cane Garden Casa anGular Casa aTalaYa Casa limones Casa vaCa Paraiso QuinTa JaBali villa verde
ARQUITECTO STANLEY HUTCHINSON 787.556.5537
stanleyc.hutchinson@gmail.com 45 Years Licensed Architect
PR License: 14438
Mercado Agricola / Farmer’s Market Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday Martes, Miercoles y Viernes 7am -4pm off of 200 on route 201 • 787-598-4509
AmpliA GAmA de FrutAs & VeGetAles lArGest selection oF Fruits & VeGetAbles best prices / mejores precios
Bar & liquor wine Liquor beer Store cool
Open everyday 12 noon to sometime after midnight Abierto desde el mediodia hasta algun momento despues de la media noche todos los dias
the place where the
locals
EL S o m brero Viejo
BESt PricES
MEjOrES PrEciOS
AkA “kuhnS”
200 vinos
Music, news, interviews with community members of Vieques, Culebra and eastern Puerto Rico. Caribbean, Puerto Rican, Latin American and World music. Radio Vieques …música, noticias, entrevistas con gente de las comunidades de Vieques, Culebra y la zona este de Puerto Rico. Música caribeña, puertorriqueña, latinoamericana y del mundo.
wines
email: info@radiovieques.net
787 375-0525 www.radiovieques.net
cigars
Behind the Post Offiice Isabel II Detras del correo en Isabel II 19
The FRESHEST place on the rock! Smokehouse • Oysters • Artisan Draft Beer OPEN OPEN Tues-Sat Tues-Sat 5-10PM 5-10PM .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 787-741-7700 HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR At intersection of 201 & 996 4-6PM 4-6PM •• $2 $2 TACOS TACOS Reservations party of 5 or more .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. SUNDAY SUNDAY BRUNCH BRUNCH 11-3PM 11-3PM
AguAcate
your personal cuisine by Waldo
Full Service catering Since 2005 Creative and stylish menus for any event
weddings, special events, private dinners, and provisioning
www.aguacatecatering.com
787-615-2320
The most delicious seafood paella - up to 8 ingredients, ribs, kebobs, paellas at the beach or your villa, to a romantic dinner for two at sunset or your wedding in Vieques...anything!
yourpersonalcuisine.com
787-487-4244
NEW HOURS!
Open at 5:30 Thurs.-Mon Closed Tues. & Wed
VIEQUES INSIDER
Reserve space right away for the July-Oct issue which will include an in-depth guide to Vieques Beaches. 2016 SCHEDULE WINTER ISSUE - PRINT AND ONLINE SPRING ISSUE - PRINT AND ONLINE SUMMER ISSUE - PRINT AND ONLINE FALL ISSUE - ONLINE ONLY! 20
THINK PINK TO GO GREEN
in the next issue From Hawaii, Dominique, the Maldives, Fiji, Patagonia, and Peru, child of the world and ecoactivist Alison Teal surfs a wave of energy to Vieques. www.alisonsadventures.com
W H E R E TO WEST END RECYCLING OFFICE Follow 200 going West. After you pass the pier take your first left before the large field across from Milivy Church. (If you get to the church you have gone too far.) / Drive 0.25 miles and look for signs for the recycling office on the left.
SANTA MARIA Pass German Rieckehoff High School in Santa María and drive straight ahead. Pass the baseball park on left and drive straight ahead to a little plaza on the right. Wooden bins are just past the plaza.
R E C Y C L E ESPERANZA Located at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust is across from the Malecon and next to Duffy’s Restaurant. The recycling containers are in front yard.
BARRIO FLORIDA Driving west on 200 toward the airport, take a left onto 201. Take the first right into the AAA Office. The recycling containers are at the end on the left. For customers of the farmers market on Tues., Wed. and Fri., this very convenient recycling location is only 200 yards away from the market!
MATERIALS RECYCLED • P L A ST IC, C A R D B OA R D, PA PER, ALUMINUM G l ad ys Vel az q u e z 7 8 7 .7 4 1 .5 0 0 0 e x t. 2 3 51 or em ail reciclaje.gmv@gmail.com
• E A RT H DAY • W E D N E S D AY, A P R I L 2 2 N D 21
LA NOCHE DE SAN JUAN Are you ready for some LUCK? by José Carrasquillo
and hundreds of people line the shores of Vieques. It is La Noche de San Juan (St. John’s Night), a celebration observed by millions around the world. It is a Christian celebration of pagan origin. Catholics celebrate the birth of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of Puerto Rico, on June 24th. It’s believed that on the eve of this day the waters are blessed with the power to cure diseases, cleanse the soul, drive evil spirits away and bring good luck. At the stroke of midnight those by the shore turn themselves around and begin walking backwards into the water where they will dunk themselves three times in quick succession. The act of walking into the water backwards and dunking three times is symbolic of the act of baptism preached and practiced by St. John. The pagan tradition celebrates the advent of the summer solstice on June 21. During the solstice many cultures set bonfires at midnight. It’s believed fire gives the sun the power needed for it to remain strong as the days begin to get shorter. In Puerto Rico and Vieques the summer solstice celebration and La Noche de San Juan have been combined into a summer family tradition. Generations of families, friends, and visitors flock to the beaches to partake in what has become a cultural ritual.
It is five minutes to midnight on the eve of June 24,
IF YOU PLAN TO ATTEND THE FESTIVITIES: Leave valuables at home as there is a high probability you will get WET!
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Be part of the tradition and experience an unforgettable summer night! WHAT La Noche de San Juan St. John’s Night WHEN Midnight between June 23 and June 24 WHERE Sunbay; alternatively, the Esperanza beach by the Malecón (between the piers) HOW Walk to the water’s edge around 11:55pm. Turn yourself around and walk backwards into the water. When the water is around your waist, stop and wait until midnight. At midnight, plunge yourself backwards into the water three times in quick succession.
Karl Alexander
TRADITIONS
island style good luck
esperanza = hope You might see one of these flying insects while you are here in Vieques. If you do - lucky you! This Puerto Rico version of the katydid family is considered a pest to gardeners in many parts of the world as it can wipe out large fields of crops when in large numbers. But in Vieques and Puerto Rico this bug has special status as a symbol of good luck. Locals call it Esperanza, the Spanish word for hope. According to Franco González of Caribbean Fly Fishing “it is the only bug that is allowed to live if it is found inside the house.”
The suite of clubs design on playing cards is inspired by Rue.
By Scott D. Appell
DID YOU KNOW?
On Vieques the herb rue, ruda in Spanish and ruta graveolens in botanical Latin, is planted by the front door to bring good fortune to the household. Additionally, the foliage is used in a literal/spiritual bath to improve one’s luck and open his or her path to success. The bather stands in a tub and pours the boiled and cooled liquid over the body. Visitors to the island who want to emulate the ritual can pick up a bar of Rue soap at the pharmacy in Isabel II.
The scent of rue is known to be a cat repellent. Plant it around the garden or wherever you don’t want cats to dig. Harvest the rue and dry it to sprinkle in your garden or yard.
Lucky Rue!
ISLA VIDA
Alba Bermúdez painted a {Mandala} on the ceiling of her meditation room with glow in the dark paint.
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SCULPTED SIMPLICITY MEDITATIVE, MINIMALISTIC, MEDITERRANEAN BY: CYNTHIA NICHOLSEN
V
ieques is an extraordinary place. Off the beaten tourist path, with no high-rise hotels, no golf courses, not even a traffic light, it is a place where one feels blessedly close to the island landscape and its raw beauty. While definitely not for everyone, it is this uber natural state that seems to unnerve some and enchant others. One person to fall under the spell is Ignacio Pla Lopez De Murillas. He enjoys the super-saturated colors of the hills and waters and feels a certain balance that is inspiring for
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him and his work. “Learning to guide our attention to nature’s details, its choices of form and structure are in balance, which results in essential beauty,” says De Murillas. A native of Barcelona, Spain, Iggy (as he is called by his beloved wife, Jenn Ok - another great source of inspiration) has a Master’s Degree in sculpture from the New York Studio School. He describes himself as a designer of interiors and objects but his interests are many, including woodcarving, photography, graphic design, metal
Helen Davis broker / owner lic. #11424
Se habla Español
Island Real Estate but the fact that it had a garage that I could turn into a studio was a sign that this place was meant for me.” Now, after months of work, De Murillas vision has been realized in a sculpted cement interior space, including cement seating and dining areas. He describes this imaginative, low-cost design as “Minimalist Mediterranean”. The white walls are decorated with artwork found here on the island, along with some treasures from thrift stores. Pieces of coral Learning to guide our and driftwood bring warmth attention to nature’s to the space. A large handmade details, its choices of hammock in the form and structure are middle of the in balance, which results room beckons one to pause and reflect on island in essential beauty life. Now living in his completed home-studio De Murillas has settled into his work. Around the indoor-outdoor studio and working with found you’ll find his composiobjects. tions in progress; a metal An intrepid traveler, chair he is designing for Ignacio had been to many a company in Europe; an parts of the world - Asia, organic sculpture made Morocco, Europe - but of discarded rebar and when he came to Vieques a large piece of coral. It in 2006, he knew he had is a comfortable home found a place where he berich with the personal longed. He bought a 1200 touches of its sculptor. square foot fixer-upper De Murillas is enthusiin a working-class barrio. astically enamored of Approaching the property his transformed home with a minimalist eye, his and work space. “Here, I needs were simple. “It can think about how I’m had enough yard to plant feeling. This studio is my a garden, to make a little refuge: it is like a church paradise (he enjoys growin a way. Here in Vieques, ing orchids). It also had a finally I can breathe.” clear view toward Culebra,
“
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Well maintained home with that wow factor. Exceptional sweeping 180 degree views to Puerto Rico, Culebra and even the Virgin Islands from this spacious Bravos de Boston Villa. Very large open floor plan living area and improved kitchen, with adjoining balcony overlooking the ocean. Two large bedrooms and baths. Good sized laundry/storage room, with an additional room, more storage, and a covered carport below. The 1,000 square meter lot allows for expansion or the addition of a pool. Sold furnished. Titled. Price Reduced! $412,000
ract
nt in co
Amazing possibilities for this structurally sound fixer-upper with one of the best views in Bravos de Boston. Two bedrooms, 2 baths in an open floor plan upstairs, and a small efficiency downstairs. Balconies overlooking the ocean on both floors, plus a roof-top deck with breathtaking views of Puerto Rico and the sunset. Swimming pool needs to be finished as do the terraces and gardens and roof top access. Private gate and covered secure parking. Lots of storage. Untitled. Needs lots of TLC but worth the effort! $385,000 Large move-in ready two family home overlooking the fort in Mambiche. Main living area has 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, a balcony, air conditioning, and a nice kitchen with new appliances and lots of cupboards. The downstairs is a one bedroom one bath open floor plan apartment that could generate extra income. Storage room, laundry, and gated 2-car garage. Sweet shade garden with veranda. All new very pretty furnishings included. No work required, but build stairs to the roof for a view of the sunset, the ocean and Puerto Rico! Titled. $325,000 Spectacular Bravos Beachfront Watch sea turtles, dolphins, rays and even whales from your perch on this perfect all concrete dream of a beach house overlooking La Lanchita Beach. This two level home features an open floor plan kitchen, dining & family room leading to a spacious balcony on the main floor. Downstairs, find 3 bedrooms and 2 baths. The hallway is partially open to a rainforest landscape, and leads to a small beachfront pool. 407.5 sq. mts. Offered furnished. Fully titled. $799,000
phone 787.741.7001 cell 787.458.7997 fax 787-741-1497 www.islandrealestate.net 575 German Rieckehoff Vieques, PR 00765 25
Amity Charters Deep Sea Fishing Charters
J Ferguson, Captain Trips Leaving from Esperanza
787-502-3839
www.viequessportfishing.com amitycharters@aol.com
Your #1 Vieques outdoor sports outfitter Join one of our Eco-Trips Now in Ceiba
BioBay - Biking - Snorkel - Hiking Diving - Kayak - SUP - Charters Call us for information on seasonal fishing, sailing and excursions
787-741-1892 www.blackbeardsports.com Retail - Rental - Trips - Internet Located next to the Post Office in Isabel II, at the W Retreat, and Ceiba Do your research before getting to the beach. Information on the best spots and how to get there.
www.WheresTheBeachVieques.com
PADDLE
SNORKEL
.com
ADVENTURE
Vieques shores and its marine beauty seen from a different perspective.
Summer snorkeling is the best snorkeling of the year!
787 366 5202
For Reservations (787) 435-0256 Capt. Judi Marcus USCG Capt. 3401465
Hobie Catamaran Adventures. Pristine Offshore Reef Snorkeling. 26
www.SeaVieques.com Licensed and insured
ON THE WATER
Fin Time Charters
FISHING VIEQUES YO UR C HO I C E S MA D E SI MP LE WITH CAPT. TOM K
You’re sitting on the beach enjoying the incredible view, thinking about that delicious yellowtail snapper you had for dinner last night when it dawns on you. I’m a fisherman, look at this water. It’s got to be loaded with fish. That familiar itch to throw a line in the water is back and you’re determined to scratch it. Before you start running in circles, buying tackle and searching the shoreline, there are a few decisions to be made. What type of fishing do you want to pursue? Are you bringing the family? Are you sport fishing or looking for a meal? Boat or Shoreline? Blue water or Inshore? A few hours or all day? Nighttime or Daylight? Hook and Line or Spear Fishing? Answering these questions will determine what you will need and where to go. Let Vieques Insider simplify the process for you.
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Amity Charters
Fin Time Adventures
photo: Karl Alexander
Caribbean Fly Fishing
n here caption here caption here caption here caption here. Capt. Franco-Caribbean Fly Fishing
Amity Charters
Fishing Charters
The most reliable way to catch fish is to spend the day with an experienced captain who makes his living on the water. The fishing captains on Vieques have spent a lifetime finding and catching fish and they bring that knowledge with them on the water. I N S H OR E
Holly- Fin Time Adventures
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Does fishing the flats for bonefish quicken your pulse? “Franco” Gonzales, who grew up on Vieques, has chartered here for 16 years and specializes in inshore fishing. The bone fishing on Vieques is exceptional and Franco will put you on the fish. How about an airborne tarpon or a line-stripping snook? Does that get your blood racing? Franco owns and operates Caribbean Fly Fishing, but don’t let the name fool you. Most of his charters for tarpon and snook are with spinning tackle. Observing the different techniques he employs is a lesson for any angler. Just watching him throw a cast net for bait is worth the price of admission. Franco charters twice daily, from 7 to 11 am and 1 to 5 pm. His boat will hold up to three fishermen comfortably.
O FFSHO RE
It’s a short run off the south coast to the blue water where you’ll find a myriad of species; Dorado, Blackfin Tuna, an occasional Yellowfin Tuna, King Mackerel, Wahoo, Barracuda and Blue Marlin. Captain Dave Young of Fin Time Adventures, an experienced East Coast Captain, moved to Vieques to charter fishing trips almost four years ago. Fin Time offers a variety of fishing charters; combination fishing and snorkeling, inshore bottom fishing, mid-range offshore for Jacks, Kings and Barracuda and offshore for Wahoo, Tuna and Marlin. Dave, his brother and First Mate Pete, and little Mississippi rescue dog Holly are all about the fun. Captain J. Ferguson of Amity Charters is a Florida fishing transplant. Born in Amity NY, he learned his trade in the Florida Keys by working for years with the old pros. His knowledge of offshore fishing is extensive. J. runs offshore for Dorado, Wahoo, Blackfin Tuna and Bar Jacks. When the seas are high or when requested he’ll stay inshore and fish for Kings.
Both Fin Time and Amity Charters troll for their fish and emphasize fun and comfort, offering 4 and 6 hour trips for up to 6 people. P UERTO RICO
Okay, you’re leaving Vieques tomorrow to spend a few days on the big island of Puerto Rico. Don’t panic, we’ll get you fishing. Blackbeard Sports has a fully stocked bait and tackle shop in Ceiba, along with their own pier. They offer inshore Tarpon and Snook or offshore charters. Blackbeard has been a mainstay for water sports on Vieques for years. Walk into their shop in downtown Isabella and they can schedule your charter. If you are staying in San Juan call Franco of Caribbean Fly Fishing. He charters for Tarpon and Snook right in the San Juan Bay. Spear Fishing
Spear Fishing provides the opportunity to observe the amazing underwater panorama of life and color while pursuing your quarry. If you choose this fishing option, Blackbeard Sports in
Isabel offers a variety of Spear Fishing equipment. Their knowledgeable and courteous staff will provide instruction and direct you to the best Spear Fishing locations on island. Relaxed Fishing
Enjoy the cool breeze off the water while you dunk a baited hook and spend some quality time with the family. Spend a peaceful day with gorgeous views and time to relax while you wait for the bite. There are two options; purchase a rod and reel, line, some terminal tackle and head out, or fish like a local. Bait, squid or frozen fish can be purchased at Morales Supermarket on Route 200. A comfortable place for relaxed fishing on the north side is the first mile of paved road at Rompeolas (Mosquito Pier). (Please do not fish off the dock at the end of the pier. This area is a safe haven for turtles and there is an ongoing problem with sea turtles becoming tangled in fishing line.) On the south side try the sugar cane pier in Esperanza or the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. In the Refuge, go to Entrance number 1
>>>>>
Fish like a Local Try something new. Fish with a yo-yo. Yup, I said yo-yo. The Locals have been using yo-yo’s for years with great success. They are 6 to 12 inch spools. Tie off the line end and wrap. Use 15 to 30 pound test. Tie on a hook and sinker, bait your hook, swing around overhead and let it fly. This is an inexpensive way to fish your kids will love. You’ll be holding the line between your thumb and forefinger so have some protection for your forefinger. You can purchase special gloves or improvise with a piece of soft rubber or sturdy cloth.
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(concrete pier at Pirate’s Cove), the rocks on Caracas, the rocks on the west end of La Chiva beach or the bridge on La Chiva lagoon. Adventure Fishing
You’re willing to work for fish, climb the rocks, walk the shoreline, get your feet wet; doesn’t matter, you’re gonna find the fish. Tarpon and snook roam our shoreline and you don’t need to cast 80 yards to find them. Most fish are sitting 20 to 30 yards from shore. Park at the entrance to Mosquito Pier and walk west. Look for murky water on the lee side of sandy points and retrieve your lure at different speeds, work these areas hard. Look for deep pools or structure at Punta Arenas. In the Wildlife Refuge, take a walk in either direction from Pirates Cove
or climb out to the end of the rocks on the east end of La Chiva beach. For this kind of fishing purchase a rod and reel, line, 15 to 30 pound test and 3 to 6 inch shallow diving plugs. Better fat than skinny to mimic the pilchards that tarpon and snook prefer. This fishing is a little more expensive but you can always ship your tackle home. Blackbeard Sports and El Pescador Dive Shop Fishing and Marine Center both carry a full line of fishing equipment. Blackbeard Sports is located in downtown Isabella and El Pescador is located just off Route 200 in Santa Maria – call for hours and directions. Night Fishing
The Vieques Fish and Wildlife Service has initiated a pilot program for night fishing every other Friday
evening at the National Wildlife Refuge. Stop by the office at the entrance for details. The FWS office is open Monday through Friday, 8am to 3pm. Leatherback Turtle nesting season occurs between mid-April and mid-June so watch for postings when beaches are closed to fishing. FISHING Regulations
You can fish almost any shoreline on Vieques but don’t cross private property. The Vieques Fish and Wildlife Service encourages you to fish. All areas are open for daytime fishing but remember, you must leave the Wildlife Refuge by posted times or be locked in and fined. Never fish around swimmers, snorkelers or divers. They can’t see your line in the water and it is your responsibility to steer clear. Sun Bay,
USFWS OFFICE GATE
AREAS FOR NIGHT TIME SHORE FISHING AND RAMPS 1. TRES PALMITAS 2. ROCKS ON CARACAS 3. TAPÓN BAY 4. LA CHIVA ENRANCE #1 (CONCRETE PIER/PIRATE’S COVE) 5. ROCKS ON WEST END OF LA CHIVA BEACH 6. BRIDGE ON LA CHIVA LAGOON
N I G H T- T I M E FISHING
EVERY OTHER FRIDAY 8:00 PM-12 AM
7. PUNTA CONEJO 8. *ESCONDIDA BEACH 9. LA PLATITIA AND THE ROCKS WEST OF THIS AREA Note: There is no night fishing from the sand shores due to sea turtle nesting. (*exception - Escondida Beach) Once inside the refuge the gate will close at 9pm and re-open at 11:30pm. In case of emergency there will be security personnel who will provide assistance. Note: The Vieques National Wildlife areas on the west end are open all night but ONLY for night fishing. Watch for closure postings during sea turtle nesting season.
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Vieques can’t promise you’ll catch fish, but that’s why it’s fishing, not catching. After a day spent with a line in the water staring at breathtaking views, or the intrigue of beautiful landscapes around every corner or the surprise of clarity and color of offshore waters, that itch is gone, replaced by a memory guaranteed to bring a smile when you think of Vieques and time spent On The Water.
Note: At press time licensing legislation for recreational fishing was in progress. Please check with your tackle supply shop or call DNER at 787-741-8683 for fishing license information.
did you know? 10.5 “
MUTTON SNAPPER
10.5 “
ABOUT FISH SLIME?
.....................
Not every fish has scales or fins, or relies mainly on gills to process oxygen, but every fish has a protective mucoid covering on its outermost surface.
YELLOWFIN SNAPPER
18-36 “
SNOOK
AMITY CHARTERS 787.502.3839 CARIBBEAN FLY FISHING 787.450.3744 BLACKBEARD SPORTS 787.741.1892 FIN TIME ADVENTURES 787.981.4109
RELEASING A FISH
Always wet your hands or gloves before touching. Try to hold fish by the lower jaw. Take out of the water for shortest time possible and only for hook removal or photo. If you use two hands hold by lower jaw and around base of tail. Never hold a fish by its stomach or gills. When reviving hold by base of tail. Try to remove as little body slime as possible.
TICATOVE TICATOVE FOCUSES ON RESEARCH AND PRESERVATION OF SEA TURTLES and is looking for volunteers for their sea turtle monitoring program. This is an opportunity to work directly with the staff to monitor turtle nesting activity on many of the beaches of Vieques. Be part of the conservation and preservation efforts for endangered sea turtles. Contact ticatovevieques@gmail.com, send a message on facebook TICATOVE Grupo de Conservacion de Vieques, or call Suki Bermudez at 787-955-9310.
VQS TURTLES Rompeolas is a 1.1 mile stretch of sea wall with calm, clear water on the western side and waves to the east. A paved road and extensive roadside make it a beautiful spot to bike, walk, jog and fish. At the end of the sea wall is a pier that extends another .13 miles out over the ocean with pylons reaching to depths of 40 feet. For over a decade the pier area was off limits to the public and had become a safe haven for sea turtles. Sea sponges and coral grow on the pylons making it a unique environment and ideal feeding ground for Green and Hawksbill turtles. Recently the pier was reopened to the public. Unfortunately, fishing from the end of the pier is having detrimental effects to the families of sea turtles below. Turtles are getting caught in the hooks and fishing lines entangled in the pylons which can prevent them from getting to the surface for air. In the past four months five Hawksbills have been rescued by TICATOVE, the local conservation group focused on the preservation of sea turtles. Please help us to protect our sea turtles by choosing to fish on the mile of paved road before the pier or at any of the many other locations on the island.
photo: Bailey Whitehill
Media Luna and Navio beaches are also open to fishing. Stay toward the ends of the beaches and move on if any water activity approaches. Please leave the beach and shores as pristine as you found them and take all fishing line and tackle with you when you go. So, you caught it. Can you eat it? Snook, yellowtail snapper and mutton snapper are white meat fish that taste great, so yes, eat them. If you are not sure, take a picture and carefully release, that picture lasts forever. You can keep snook between 18 and 36 inches, Yellowfin snapper at least 10.5 inches and Mutton snapper 10.5 inches. All mutton snapper must be released between April 1st and May 30th in Puerto Rico waters.
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Vieques Classic Charter viequesclassiccharter.com
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Kayaking, Snorkeling, & Biobay Tours 8 DiffErEnt tours
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Kayak Trips Bioluminescent Bay Snorkeling Trips & Equipment Rental Info for rates & hours
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PUERTO RICAN CHERMOULA
a fish tail
Chermoula is a classic fish marinade from Morocco. I prefer to use it as a sauce on whole grilled fish and have tweaked the recipe to reflect a more Puerto Rican flavor profile. The recipe makes enough marinade for a 4 1/2 pound whole fish or 2 or 3 smaller fish.
CYNTHIA CynthiaNICHOLSEN Nicholsen
1
large bunch cilantro, stems removed
1/2
bunch flat leaf or curly leaf parsley, stems removed
4
cloves garlic
1 tablespoon cumin 1/2
teaspoon salt, or to taste
Let’s say, while vacationing in Vieques, you went on a fishing charter and caught a good-looking
1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger
snapper or grouper. A great way to show off (and enjoy) your catch of the day would be to throw that baby on a hot grill and serve up an impressive dinner. Why the grill instead of the oven? Because it will make that hard-earned fish taste so sublime. Grilling a whole fish makes for a dramatic presentation and is thrifty at the same time: you get to deliver a gorgeous, smokekissed fish to the table and you lose far less meat than had you filleted the fish beforehand. Here are a few tips to help deliver a perfect grilled fish every time.
1
Start with a scaled and gutted fish with head and tail intact. You need to slash the fish on both sides every one and half inches. This helps distribute the heat so the fish will cook evenly. Use a sturdy, supersharp knife to do this. You want nice even cuts, not mangled flesh.
2
Grilling fish can be a little tricky. To keep your beautiful fish from sticking and falling apart make sure your grill is very clean, very hot and very well oiled. Do this by soaking a paper towel in vegetable or grape seed oil, then wiping down the grill with it. As for the fish itself, coat it with tastier oil such as olive or avocado. Make sure you rub the oil into the cuts and inside the cavity as well. Oil will reduce the sticking factor and also help the seasonings adhere to the fish. Now, liberally sprinkle your fish with salt and pepper, including the head, tail
and inside the body cavity. Save additional seasonings for when the fish comes off the heat.
3
Lay the fish down on the grill with the tail facing farthest away from the heat. It will cook much faster than the head, even with the slashes you made. It is very important that you do not grill a large fish over very high heat! It will burn to a crisp on the outside before the center is cooked through. Steady, medium heat is what you want. How long? The general rule is ten minutes per inch of thickness. Muy importante! Begin timing your fish as soon as you place it on the hot coals. My four and a quarter pound Sama (a type of local Snapper) took about twenty minutes, or ten minutes per side.
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Only flip your fish once. Fight the impulse to move it around. Patience is required and
FLAVORFUL OILS WITH A HIGH SMOKEPOINT GREAT FOR GRILLING olive avocado CLEAN GRILL WITH vegetable grapeseed
will pay off in the end. The fish is ready to be flipped when it can be moved without sticking to the grill. Carefully lift the fish with two metal spatulas (or one long one) that have been brushed with oil on both sides and GENTLY flip it over. Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, sticking happens. Don’t worry, the fish will still be tasty.
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1
teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 cup good quality olive oil
Juice from 3 or 4 local limes Place all ingredients in a food processor or blender and pulse until coarsely chopped. Transfer charmoula to a small serving bowl. Spoon about two or three tablespoons of the sauce over the whole grilled fish. Then add a teaspoon or two of water or olive oil to the remaining chermoula sauce to thin it, making it easier to distribute over each serving of fish. Store any leftover chermoula in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
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You’ll know the fish is done by the cooking time (timing is everything!) and by looking at the cuts. The inside should be cooked through. Carefully lift it off the grill and set it on a platter to rest a bit. Now is the time to put the finishing touches on your masterpiece. Here is a recipe for a tasty sauce using local ingredients found here on the island. Take a bow as your dinner guests applaud.
Okay, let’s say you DIDN’T catch a fish... Do the smart thing and go to see Guelymar Perez and Eric Torres at Pescaderia Angely in Isabel Segunda. The fish market offers a catch of the day, spiny lobster and fresh conch. Guelymar speaks English and they will gladly scale and gut the fish for you. Call Pescaderia Angely before noon at (787) 349-8660. 33
787.435.3172 www.viequesinsider.com info@viequesinsider.com ACCOMMODATIONS Ababor Suites 787-435-2841 Acacia Guesthouse 787-741-1059 Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Bravo Beach Hotel (BBH) 787-741-1128 Casa de Amistad 787-741-3758 Casa de Kathy 787-565-2717 Casa La Lanchita 787-741-8449 Crow’s Nest 787-741-0033 El Blok 787-741-6020 Flamboyan Guesthouse 340-642-5882 787-741-9090 Hacienda Tamarindo 787-362-3324 787-741-8525 Hectors by the Sea 787-741-1178 Hix Island House 787-741-2302 La Finca Caribe 787-741-0495 Lazy Hostel 787-741-5555 Malecon House 787-741-0663 Sea Gate Hotel 787-741-4661 Trade Winds 787-741-8666 Tropical Guest House 787-741-2449 Villa Coral 787-741-1967 W Vieques 787-741-4100 .................................. VACATION RENTAL HOUSES Bravos Beach Cottages 231-633-4076 Casa Angular 410-363-3284 Casa Colores 413-548-8053 Casa Vieques 909-894-6569 Cookies Paradise 305-975-2046 El Cerro 850-598-1415 Villa Uno 202-387-9812 AIR CONDITIONING SERVICE Dynamic Air Conditioning 787-364-1800 AIRLINES Air Flamenco Air Sunshine Cape Air M&N Aviation Vieques Air Link
787-741-8811, 4121 888-879-8900 800-352-0714 787-791-7090 787-741-8331
ART GALLERIES Ellie Harold 231-352-6213 Ernesto Peña 787-741-1922 Fuerte Conde Mirasol 787-741-1717 Gallery Galleon 787-741-3078 ReciclArte 787-433-0015 Sandra Reyes 787-988-9319 Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery 787-741-1343 Vieques Historical 787-741-8850 & Conservation Trust BIO BAY / NIGHT TOURS Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Blue Waters 844-210-2922 Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 Island Adventures 787-741-0720 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 Taino Aqua Adventures 787-349-6964 BIKE TOURS/RENTAL BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Explore Vieques Bike Tours 939-258-2453 (Bike)
CAR RENTAL Abreeze Car Rental 787-741-1856 Avis Ceiba 787-885-0505 / VQS 787-741-0284 Chepito’s 787-649-2542 Enterprise (Puerto Rico) 787-860-6868 M-F 787-801-3722 Sat-Sun Fun Brothers (Scooters) 787-435-9372/741-0151 Island Car Rental 787-741-8822 Island Jeep Rental 787-741-3318 Maritza’s 787-741-0078 / airport 0700 Vieques Car Rental 787-741-1037 CATERERS Aguacate Catering 787-615-2320 Arenamar 787-239-7771 Beverly Davenport-Chef 215-313-1241 Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Coqui Fire 787-741-0401 Don Tito’s Lechon 787-741-2898 Green Man Baked Goods 787-435-6822 Chef Eva Bolívar 787-402-0357 Your Personal Chef (Waldo) 787-487-4244 CONSTRUCTION Architecto Stanley Hutchinson Cardinal Contractors Centro Commercial Florida Chu Garcia Design Build Group EDK Design Services Ferreteria Victoria M&M of Vieques Nales Hardware Navarro Construction Tony’s Painting Paul Lutton, Arquitecto Vieques Locksmith
ELECTRICIANS EcoMan Dan 787-550-6700 Dynamic Air Conditioning 787-364-1800 High Quality Electrical Contractor 787-446-6063 EQUIPMENT RENTAL Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay 787-741-2134 BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 JAK Water Sports 787-644-7112 Playa Voltios 787-741-7873 EXTERMINATORS Professional Exterminating
787-449-6950
FISHING CHARTERS Amity Charters Caribbean Fly Fishing Co. Fin Time Adventures
787-502-3839 787-450-3744 787-981-4109
FITNESS Sweat Fitness W
787-741-4100
FLOWERS Flores 202-276-8601 GROCERY Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Morales 787-741-3365 Placita Reyes 787-598-4509 Yerbabuena y Mas 787-567-4158 HORSEBACK RIDING Esperanza Riding Sea Gate Hotel Taxi Horses
34
787-556-5537 939-639-0848 787-741-2571 787-741-4106 787-637-3414 787-435-3548 787-741-3061 787-741-2577 787-741-1307 787-741-2577 787-602-8359 787-477-7684 787-564-5120
787-435-0073 787-741-4661 787-206-0122
INSURANCE/MORTGAGE Jose A Diaz Agosto 787-763-0011 Preferred Mortgage Corp. 787-641-5500, 342-3175 JET SKI RENTAL Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 / 741-0151 LANDSCAPING / POOL MAINTENANCE Anchor Landscaping 787-479-5801, 479-4310 Ean Egas Tree Removal 518-506-1374 Mow Joe 207-651-1213 Pool Cleaning 787-467-5318 Pool Spa Tech Services 787-506-4898 LIQUOR STORE El Sombrero Viejo (Liquor)
787-741-2416
LOCKSMITHS Marc Weems Locksmith
787-564-5120
MASSAGE Away Spa (W) Blue Hill Hand & Foot Reflexology and Massage Blue Hoku (Maureen) Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman
787-741-7021 787-908-2552 787-556-5025 787-435-1313
MEDICAL SERVICES / PHARMACIES ASSMCA 787-741-4767 Behavioral Health Care 888-440-8787 Centro Quiropráctico 787-741-0414 Consejería Psicológica 787-547-9467 Dra- Daphne Torres (Dentista) 787-741-1916 Farmacia San Antonio 787-741-8397 Dr- Jose Figueroa 787-741-2222 Dra- Fanny Garraton (dentist) 787-741-8765 Dr. Rivera 787-741-0738 Susana Centro Health Center 787-741-1166 Dr. Ivette Perez 787-741-7733 Dentist Juan R- Gonzalez 787-318-7376 Dr- Luis Rivera 787-741-0738 MUSEUMS Forte Conde Mirasol Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust
787-741-1717 787-741-8850
PADDLEBOARDING JAK Water Sports SUP StandUp Paddle Vieques Paddleboarding
787-644-7112 787-232-6906 787-366.5202
PET CARE & SERVICES Pampered Pets Vieques Humane Society
787-741-0639 787-741-0209
PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO E.P. Anderson Photography Jennifer Teeter River Photography Video Recording/Production
971.506.9406 787-469-3337 787-556-9030 413 237 9696
PHYSICIANS E.P. Anderson Photography Jennifer Teeter River Photography Video Recording/Production
971.506.9406 787-469-3337 787-556-9030 413 237 9696
PUBLICOS/TAXIS/TOURS Alba Melendez 787-206-0456 Alejito Bermúdez 939-261-7857 Ana Robles 787-514-9597 Angie Chauffeur 787-455-4596 Carlos & Denisse 787-447-8697 Edna Robles 787-630-4673 Hilda Robles 787-486-0267 Henry 787-649-3838 Jose Morales 787-435-4277 Josue 787-445-4599 Juanito 787-645-2329 Julio 787-579-1141 Letty Perez/Kiany Tours 787.556.6003 Luis Gonzalez 787-435-3805 Naté 787-364-5911 Sharron 787-944-4569 Vieques Taxi 787-741-TAXI 8294 Vieques Tours & Transportation 787-397-2048 PUBLICATIONS / MARKETING Imprenta Adonai 787-741-2856 Vieques Insider Magazine 787.435.3172 Viequestravel.com 212-462-2900 RADIO Radio Joe Radio Vieques
787-355-0090 787-741-1717
REAL ESTATE Bravos Boyz 787-741-1463 Guayacan Realty 787-565-0713/741-0414 Island Real Estate 787-741-7001 Rainbow Realty 787-741-4312 Sun Realty Vieques 787-467-5368 Vieques Fine Properties 787-741-3298 Vieques Realty & Rentals 787-209-8868 RESTAURANTS & BARS Aguacate 787-615-2320 Arenamar Café 787-239-7771 Awesome Yogurt & Fruits 787-517-1061 Belly Buttons 787-741-3336 Buen Provecho 787-529-7316 Biekes Bistro 787-741-6381 Bilí 787-741-1382 Carambola 787-741-3318 Chicken King & Ice Cream 787-741-5464 Conuco 787-741-2500 Coquí Fire 787-741-0401 Duffy’s Esperanza 787-741-7600 El Sombrero Viejo 787-741-2416 El Quenepo 787-741-1215 Izzy’s Bar & Grill 787-741-0720 José Enrique @ El Blok 787-741-6020 La Zafra 787-644-9325 Lazy Jacks 787-741-1447 Mamasonga 787-741-0103 Mar Azul 787-741-3400 Mr Sushi 787-741-2828 Next Course 787-741-1028 Noche 787-741-7700 Pescaderia/Fish Market 787-349-8660 Placita Reyes 787-598-4509 Roys Internet Café 787-741-0685 Smokey’s BBQ & Grill 787-349-8839 Smoothie Gals 787-435-1331 Sorcé W 787-741-7022 Taverna 787-438-1100 Tin Box 787-741-7700 Trade Winds 787-741-8666 W Café 787-741-7056 SAILING / CHARTERS AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 Ababor Sailing 787 435-2841 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 LittleBoat Sailing 787.366.5202 Marauder Sailing 787-435-4858 Sea Vieques 787-435-0256 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978 Vieques Sailing w/Capt. Bill 787-508-SAIL(7245)
SCUBA BlackBeard Sports Isla Nena Scuba
787-741-1892 787-718-7607
SECURITY / INTERNET Hermer Marcano
787-435-2024
SERVICES Alcoholics Anon Humane Society Baby Item Rentals Gofers Recycling The Property Caretakers Vieques Gas
787-741-0639 787-741-0209 787-467-5368 787-220-0943 787-741-5000 x2351 917-831-5096 787-741-2551
NON-PROFITS / ORGANIZATIONS
Boys & Girls Clubs of Puerto Rico 787-741-6006 787-402-2244 www.bgcpr.org
Caballos Bieke, Inc. 434-984-5491 Corefi 787-741-2076 787-433-0413 www.viequesinneed.org
SHOPPING BlackBeard Sports 787-741-1892 Funky Beehive 787-741-3192 Isla Vida 570-390-9623 Luna Loca 843-271-1910 Malecon House Boutique 787-741-0663 MamaPlaya Himalaya 787-548-1010 Sol Creation 808-280-6223 Toda La Casa 787-236-7224 Trade Winds Gift Shop 787-741-8666 VCHT Gift Shop 787-741-8850 Playa Voltios 787-741-7873 Vieques Flowers and Gifts 787-741-4197 Vieques Bath & Botanica 917-573-4491 Woodstock 540-847-4824
Incubadora, 787-206-0602, incubadora.bieke@cprdv.org,
SPORTING CLUBS Vieques Gun Club & Sporting Clays 787-382-5242
Radio Vieques, 90.1 FM 787-206-0602, www.radiovieques.net
SPA/SALON W Retreat and Spa
787-741-7021
SU R F I NG Playa Voltios Vieques Surf School
787-741-7873 787-692-8665
TOWING Freddie 787-608-991 TRANSPORT Island Delivery (Aurelio)
787-238-9108
WEDDING PLANNERS Innovation DMC 787-215-3287 / 925-2145 MarryMe Vieques 202-276-8601 Weddings in Vieques 787-741-8000 YOGA / MASSAGE / LIFECOACHING Blu Hoku 787-556-5025 Esperanza Yoga w/Valerie 508-945-7643 Freeheart Ranch 619-246-4595 Jennifer @ Hix 787-435-6850 MariAngeles 787-435-7510 VIDEO RENTAL Chepitos Video
787-649-2542
MUNICIPAL / GOV. AGENCIES / PUBLIC SERVICE Banco Popular 787-741-7117 City Hall/Alcaldía 787-741-5000 Sun Bay 787-741-8198 US Fish and Wildlife Office 787-741-2138 Recycling Office 787.741.5000 Post Office 787-741-3891 Banco Popular 787-741-2071 PR Tourism Office Vieques Airport 787-741-2300 Isabel II 787-741-0800 AAA Autoridad de Acueductos 787-741-2001 To add or update your phone number please contact us at 787.435.3172 or kelly@viequesinsider.com
Juntos 787-556-9030, www.juntosvieques.org Parque La Ceiba Community Project 787.467.4352 Navy League 732.983.1130, tomkirkbright@gmail.com
Reach For Success 787-243-1352 cpweir@gmail.com, ReciclArte, 787-433-0015, pcuyar@reciclartepr.org Rotary Club of Vieques, 787-556-9030, RotaryVieques.com, Ticatove 787-741-2138 ticatovevieques@yahoo.com, Vieques Concert Society, 787-413-2450 www.viequesconcertsociety.org, Vieques Humane Society 703-623-2613 volunteer line 787-741-0209 www.viequeshumanesociety.org Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, 787-741-8850, www.vcht.org info@vcht.org,
EMERGENCY
Ambulance Hospital Emergency Fire Dept Police
787-741-1616 787-741-3282 911 787-741-2111 787-741-2020
35
MamaPlaya Himalaya ASIA ASIA INSPIRED INSPIRED CARIBBEAN CARIBBEAN FASHION FASHION
DESIGNED IN VIEQUES
NOW 2 LOCATIONS:
. .. . .. . . . . . .. . . . .. . . .. . . . .... . . .. . . . . .. .. . . .. .. . . .. .. . . .. .. . . .. .. . . .. .. . .. .
. .... . .. . . . . ........ .. . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . .. . . .. . . . . . .
Featuring the paintings of Nancy Hogan Armour Art/Paintings Prints Local Crafts Sarongs/Dresses/Incense/Toys Fair Trade Crafts
LUNA LOCA
Located between the Post Office & Blackbeard’s in Isabel Segunda Hours 9:30-4:30 99 Calle Munoz Rivera, Vieques, PR 00765
843-271-1910
99 Calle Munoz Rivera
ISABEL II next to Biekes Bistro ESPERANZA Plaza Guayacán on the Malecon
The best selection of island wear, gifts & Accessories for everyone’s budget
787.548.1010
Unique Gifts Beach Hats Beach Cover Ups Local Art Funny Cards Jewelry Island Clothing Home Décor Sunglasses Flip Flops
Funky
Beehive
Island clothing, great gifts! Isabel II • look for More Info on facebook • 787.741.3192
Daily mantra... Glow with the Flow! Glow-in-the-dark tee shirts available at Abe’s across the street from the Malecon. Lifestyle available here!
36
Vieques souvenir made by Jeanie Peach at Siddhia Hutchinson’s Art Gallery.
Vieques
Gifts
The little
store
S U M M E R A RT C A M P
June 8th - June 19th Monday - Friday 9am-1pm $65 / per week / per child
with a lot of stuff
Beach SupplieS havianaS local art & craftS viequeS SouvenierS clothing men’S and women’S SwimSuitS jewelry and much more!
SUMMER ART CAMP Sponsor a child and give the gift of art. 787.741.4197
on the Malecon in esperanza since 2003 open everyday
Call Gallery Galleon at 787-741-3078 for more information.
new spring /summer arrivals!
Malecón
House
Boutique
www.maleconhouse.com
787-741 0663 Located at the chic Inn - Malecon House Esperanza right on the malecon next to Tradewinds
Morales Grocery Store on Rt. 200 receives produce deliveries on Wednesday afternoon. 37
HISTORY
a sleeping
g
c ro
ery sto re
MOraleS SuperdeScuentOS grOceryStOre vin
i
de
S
er
Pr gV ieques with
your island grocery store! Produce, deli counter, wine & liquor, speciality sundries and dried goods, gluten free items, bottled beer and water selection, large variety of gourmet cheeses, beach items, and much more! Open Monday - Saturday 8am - 7pm Sunday 8am - 12pm 787-741-6701 • 787-741-3365
superdescuentosmorales@yahoo.com
on rt. 200
38
A
fter nearly 25 years of being overtaken by Mother Nature the old sugar mill in Esperanza has returned with an imposing visual force. Some of the remaining structures have been unearthed by the local government from years of overgrown shrubs and trees. The uncovered walls are part of Vieques patrimony and history. Driving into Esperanza on Rt. 996 you will encounter the walls and arches of a sugar mill that date back to 1860, the shell of an ill-fated pineapple processing plant, and the bared and splayed remains of the updated “El Parador Villa Esperanza”, part of a network of Puerto Rico “paradores”, inns run by locals. Roberto Rabin, director of El Fortin Conde de Mirasol, shared the following history with Vieques Insider via e-mail: Don Víctor Mouraille and Víctor Martineau, both from the French Caribbean colony of Guadalupe, settled in Vieques in the mid-19th century as part of a large group of French planters who came with permission from the Spanish government in Puerto Rico to help develop the sugar industry. Together they created a sugar cane project on Vieques’ south coast, based in Esperanza. By the beginning of the 20th century the consortium industrialized its production of sugar, establishing the Esperanza Sugar Central Factory, named in some documents as Central Puerto Real. The Esperanza factory had its last milling in 1927 after which the sugar grown on the mill’s lands was sent by barge from the large pier to a central factory in Naguabo, on the main island.
The Esperanza Sugar Central Factory, named in some documents as Central Puerto Real, had it’s last milling in 1927. The mill had a unique geographical location with a dock and a train that delivered sugar cane from the west side of the island to be transported to Puerto Rico on barges.
photo by Elaine Gurian
giant awakens ROA D S I D E H I S TO RY
BY JOSÉ CARRASQUILLO
Construction of the imposing walls and arches is similar to that found at El Fortin Conde de Mirasol, the Spanish fort which now is a museum. The walls also mirror some of the remaining structures of the sister mill at Playa Grande. (The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust offers guided tours during the season to the Playa Grande sugar mill). These structures are a clear reminder that Vieques was a key player in the sugar industry. The sugar mill in Esperanza had a unique geographical location with a dock and train tracks that delivered sugar cane from the west side of the island. Barges, as seen in old photographs, show an active port transporting tons of cane to the South East centrals of Puerto Rico. Many residents and visitors of Vieques still remember that in the 80’s the old Esperanza sugar mill was transformed into “El Parador Villa Esperanza.” The Parador mixed fluidly the old structures with modern buildings that housed the rooms to the Parador. These newer structures have also been recently uncovered. The Parador Villa Esperanza was for a time the most coveted parador in the networks of “paradores” of Puerto Rico. The Parador was closed permanently after Hugo damaged most of the structures in 1989. So as you head to the Malecon to enjoy food, beverage and a stunning view, keep your camera ready. History lies by the roadside. For more information on the Esperanza Sugar Mill and the history of Vieques, visit the Conde Mirasol Fort in Isabel II. You can also pick up a copy of Elizabeth Langhorne’s “Vieques: History of A Small Island” available at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust in Esperanza.
The pineapple processing plant was in operation for only a few years in the 1950’s and exported pineapples to Hawaii and other locations. Transportation problems between islands stopped the project. The building was used to house the young actors in “The Lord of the Flies” during filming in 1961.
The Parador mixed fluidly the old sugar mill structures with new construction that housed the rooms as seen above left. The Parador was closed permanently after Hugo damaged most of the structures in 1989.
39
BY JOSÉ CARRASQUILLO AND KELLY THOMPSON
Spirit
The Entrepreneurial of Iván Torres Ortíz
Winto his world and feeling the intensity and passion fueling
hen one meets Ivan Torres Ortiz, one can’t avoid being drawn
his dream. His passion is making artisan rum, a passion soon to be on display at his craft rum distillery here on Vieques. He talks about his upcoming venture with a contained, refined intensity, like the product that he will bottle and sell - changing the future of the island one sip at a time. While earning his Master’s Degree from the University of Minnesota, Ivan began touring that state’s growing micro-brewery industry. He had an idea to emulate their process with a similar model on his home turf of Vieques, but with an entirely different product; rum. The rums of Puerto Rico are known the world over, but Ivan’s concept is unique and singularly focused in its mission: to produce, bottle and sell a superb-quality artisan rum here. And his business plan is unlike anything ever executed on this tiny island. When asked how long he has been working on his enterprise Ivan says, “I started in 2009. This is not a regular type of business. It’s very complex and complicated because everything you do will be regulated by two governments. My 10-year old daughter, Paola, is probably the only person who has witnessed the incalculable hours of work that have gone into this.” For Ivan, the big turning point took place a few years back when he was hired as the General Manager at Hacienda Tamarindo Hotel. Talking with the owners one day, Linda and Burr Vail, Ivan went out on a limb and shared his dream. Having been successful business owners on Vieques for two decades both Linda and Burr saw the hurdles facing him and decided to come on board to help navigate the complex sea of permits and legalities, along with getting serious investors on board to give the venture a solid lift off. Of the partnership, Ivan says, “I had to learn to allow Burr and Linda to help me. I realized that I couldn’t do this without them.” Burr is proud of Ivan’s business acumen and what he has achieved. They both laugh when Burr describes the partnership as “a very fascinating relationship.” Burr sees tremendous potential, including room for future expansion. But for now he and Linda are just excited to help Ivan realize his dream. Along with his dream, Ivan sees the start of his business as a catalyst to usher a robust, cultural tourism industry onto the island. He believes a craft distillery will attract the crowds that artisan coffee is now bringing year round to the mountains of Puerto Rico. Despite the frustration of feeling dismissed for years, this consummate over achiever is as passionate and driven to succeed as ever before. His confidence is unshakable, his priorities calibrated and exact until the distillery opens later this year. If you would like more information about the project please contact Ivan at ivan@crabislandrum.com. 40
TO WATCH FOR
simple pleasures
Life is a journey, not a destination...but it never hurts to reward yourself along the way.
1. Hacienda San Pedro, Puerto Rican coffee sold at Buen Provecho.
1.
2. Coffee perculator the old fashion way. Great souvenir! Find them at Morales grocery store on rt. 200.
2.
Is there a name for this venture? Ivan’s eyes light up, and with his contagious smile he says, “Crab Island Rum!” He leaves the table like lightning to look for the prototype bottle and its label. He returns with a classiclooking bottle and cork destined to hold a powerful elixir. The label on it, a land crab on a map of Vieques, was designed by local artist Bill Shank. Ivan responds with a proud smile to the compliments flying around the table, a man with a dream on his never-ending quest for perfection.
3. The early bird gets the quesito! The bakeries on the island sell out of these delicious puff pastries with a cheese filling very early.
3.
4. Cigar selection at Vieques Tropical Guesthouse in Mambiche
5. Rootbeer float with homemade ice cream at Buen Proveco.
4. 5.
6. A hidden treasure is the wine room at El Sombrero Viejo. Find a great selection of wine, spirits, champagne and cigars.
+ = MILK
YUM MM MMM
6.
41
Un comienzo feliz para tus vacaciones en Vieques.
St. Thomas
.. Mayaguez San Juan
Virgin Gorda Tortola
Culebra Vieques
Anguilla St. Croix
Nevis
Vuela con la aerolínea que te ofrece servicio frecuente y continuo a Vieques desde San Juan o St. Croix.
Tus alas en el Caribe.
capeair.com
800-CAPE-AIR
Vieques Sporting Clays weddings | events | videography
Try something new! One of the most beautiful target shooting sites in the world is
now open to the public!
We are pleased to welcome all levels of sporting clay enthusiasts, from beginner to professional. If you are interested in trying this sport (often likened to playing golf with a shotgun) but have never even held a gun, our staff will have you hitting targets in no time. Large groups or one person, we can design a custom program that will challenge and excite your senses. Club guns and ammunition supplied. “This is a must-do when visiting Vieques. Our whole group had so much fun.” To schedule : Call Richard Rivera Torres 971.506.9406 | www.epanderson.com 42
787-382-5242
<
THE GENUS NAME FOR THE COQUI FROG, ELEUTHERODACTYLIS, TRANSLATES FROM THE LATINIZED GREEK FOR “FREE TOES” ALLUDING TO THE FACT THE TOES ARE UN-WEBBED.
ECO
MANTA
is an award-winning, educational summer youth program sponsored by the Vieques Conservation & Historical Trust. Students learn about the history, conservation and protection of the natural and environmental resources of Vieques and potential economic growth areas in the community.
M I N I M A N TA
June 1-12 ages 5 to 8
M A N TA R AYA
June 15-26
DID YOU KNOW?
ages 9 to 12
HOW THE COQUI GOT TO HAWAII
co-qui!
16 species of tiny tree frogs belong to the
genus Eleutherodactylis, but only one (E. coqui) is considered the “true” coqui.
DID YOU ALSO KNOW? Upon laying her eggs the female Coqui is ousted and the male protects the eggs until hatching.
Our beloved Coqui frog, the official mascot of Puerto Rico, lives in Hawaii as well. It is reported that the Coqui (pronounced Ko Kee, like the sound it makes) was accidentally transported to Hawaii in a shipment of plants, either in living or frog-egg form. The response from Hawaiians was as if the sky was falling. The mayor of Hawaii declared a state of emergency. The unique, two-toned sound of the Coqui that Puerto Ricans love so much was described as a shrill shriek and thought to run down property values. Millions of dollars have been spent over the past ten years to eradicate the Coqui on Hawaii at the same time efforts are underway in Puerto Rico to protect them. Numbers here are on the decline due to land development, fungal infections and pesticides. Despite Hawaii’s efforts, including their “frogicides”, the Coqui has spread due to lack of natural predators, like scorpions and tarantulas. Hawaiian resident, Sara Lee, on a recent visit to Vieques said of the Coquis in Hawaii, “We are getting used to them. At least they’re not poisonous - just annoying.” Meanwhile, here in Vieques, we love the sound. co qui! co-qui! Carry on!
Studies have proven that receptive females prefer males with a relatively high repetition rate of calls rather than louder calls.
Unlike the familiar Stateside tree frogs, coquis do not undergo a tadpole phase. The young hatch as miniscule froglets, all ready to go.
Their call of “co qui, co qui, co qui” is actually composed of two different calls. The “co” serves to establish vocal interactions with neighboring males while the “qui” is a mating advertisement, thus the “co qui” sound sends a specific message to both sexes. Amazing!
M A N TA
June 29-July 10 ages 13 to 17
M A N TA ST I C !
July 20-24 or July 27-31 ages 8-15
We welcome sponsors for local explorers. Reservations and information: 787 741-8850 viequesconservationtrust@gmail.com The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust encourages all persons interesting in participating, donating or offering their services on a volunteer basis to visit our headquarters in Esperanza and become part of the MANTA force.
43
MUSIC
Where There’s a WILL
There’s Music
Will Colon BY: TOM O’GRADY, JR.
44
W
hat do Jimmy Buffet, Harry Belafonte, Prince, The Kinks, Bob Marley, Neil Diamond and every movie or TV show about tropical islands you’ve ever seen have in common? They’ve all used the same musical instrument to create the feeling of an island vibe, the palm-swaying, beach-dancing, hammockrocking feeling that is the Caribbean. That instrument? The steel drum. There is no sound that evokes the image of paradise better. And there is no one on the island of Vieques more attuned to it than native son, Will Colon. Will proudly credits former mayor Antonio Rivera and his band the Moonshiners from St. Croix for bringing the instrument to Vieques in 1957. As a thirteen-year-old boy back then, Will grabbed up that sound and to this day has never let it go. For over fifty years Will Colon has been learning, playing, teaching and making the instrument first created in Trinidad during World War II. Infused with African rhythms and French harmonic singing, Calypso music became the folk music of Trinidad and Tobago, continuously influenced by other Caribbean islands such as Jamaica, Antigua, Haiti and others. Forced by their paranoid leaders to move from drums to metal biscuit cans, Trinidadians eventually looked to the oil barrels that were plentiful at the time. There they found a resilient and available product to fashion into a musical
THE DRUMS
instrument, literally, a steel drum. Called a steel pan in most of the Caribbean, the instrument spread quickly to many music aficionados, including Will Colon. As a boy he had musical influences from his dad, Cucú Colón, an accordion player, A Tenor, basically so he was all ears when he first heard the top eight or ten the sounds of the steel. Navy bands, inches of an oil drum, emits the primarily responsible for the internationchime-like sounds of alization of the steel drums, and bands other instruments, from the big island of Puerto Rico began like keyboards. incorporating the instrument into their music. Will Colon knew it belonged here in Vieques. Over time he learned to play well enough to notice that he was a dwindling resource. He looked to the youth on the island and decided it was time to teach them to carry on the tradiThe Bass is a full size tion. He also knew there was no money barrel and creates to purchase pans from Trinidad, and so the resonant, low and full sounds of necessity bred invention. Will Colon both an upright bass learned how to make steel drums. and a symphonic Give him three to eight hours and kettle drum. he produces one of three models; a Tenor, a Baritone and a Bass. Armed with a sledgehammer and his well-tuned ear, Will takes a barrel and pounds the top like an island blacksmith, creating creases and forming lumps that become the notes. Firing the metal over a wood The Baritone, a fire then cooling it tempers the metal longer cut of the and permanently captures his tuning. barrel, offers sounds not unlike guitars With years of practice he has learned to strumming. create minor key notes where traditionally only major key notes were available. Now a retired Vieques Air Link pilot, Will spends much of his time teaching Vieques youths and making drums. Four years ago he formed a steel
drum band called Los Muchachos, or, “the Kids,” he says with a grin. They are an ever-changing group of seven to eight young people from the island who he teaches how to play. “That is our future there,” he says with a knowing smile. “We have to keep them on the right side.” He also teaches adults. “For them, it is therapy.” A multi-instrumentalist and successful bandleader who plays regularly throughout the year, Will Colon does not rest. Surrounded by his drums and chalkboards of music in the barrio of Monte Santo his eyes light up as he talks of his efforts, past, present and future. Somehow, he manages to find time to be part of Cudadanos Pro Cultura de Vieques, a group of citizens that has taken on preserving cultural sites on the island. Soon to appear, the Vieques Calypso Brass II; trumpets, trombones, and of course, steel drums. And more students. Hammer, drum mallet, kids playing the pans; it’s all music to the ears of Will Colon.
Want to get your groove on? HER E A R E SOME ARTI STS TO C HEC K O U T
Harry Belafonte – the man who brought the Caribbean to America. Belafonte, with his iconic, silky voice has made island/calypso music a standard for many a generation. The one you want is Very Best of Harry Belafonte. Not The Best Of…. Very Best of…. Belafonte is featured but you’ll hear the steel drums in the mix. Amazon.com
Steelasophical– steel drum instrumentals covering a broad range of songs including traditional island tunes like Island in the Sun and Jamaican Farewell as well as covers of Sloop John B and When the Saints Go Marching In. Numerous albums; 20 hits to an album – you can’t go wrong. Amazon.com
Caribbean Jazz Romantic Steel Drum & Sax – The All-Stars give you a pleasant mix of jazzy walk-on-thebeach tunes. Good crossovers from the traditional. Amazon.com
Desparadoes Steel Orchestra – Real deal from Trinidad. Instrumentals that sound like a street carnival. Four guys that sound like ten. You’ll want to strut down the Malecon, or wherever you strut when you’re home. Amazon.com
North Stars – band out of the UK. Plenty of island influence there. Hey, they’re an island. And they’ve colonized a few. Remember UB40? Red Red Wine? Anyway the North Stars are Birmingham boys, and we ain’t talkin’ Alabama. Amazon.com
Rachel Hayward – the British steel pan player, not the Canadian actress. Rachel takes her steel to interesting classical heights hanging out with the London Philharmonic and such. Check out her steel pan version of Tchaikovsky’s Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy from the Nutcracker. Priestess of Pan and TBC are her CDs. http://www.steelpan. co.uk/Cds.html 45
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Luego de 35 años trabajando en nuestro negocio, La Muebleria Nueva, nos acogemos al retiro y queremos agradecer a todos nuestros clientes el continuo patrocinio que recibimos. ....................... After 35 years at our business, La Muebleria Nueva, we have decided to retire and want to thank you all for your patronage. Elsa y Teofilo
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SUNBAY
BY: TOM O’GRADY, JR.
Camping on Vieques Vieques boasts a beautiful oceanfront campsite on Sun Bay, a Puerto Rico National Park (Compañía De Parques Nacionales) located on the south side of the island.
• Campsites are $10 per site per night (maximum of 6 people to a site) • Enter the gate at Sun Bay Park (Rt. 997) and go straight ahead. Look for the sign for the Administrative Offices. There are two offices, one for Department of Natural Resources and one for the Parque Nacionale. Choose the Parque office, open 7 days a week including holidays, and say hello to
Julio Rodriquez, the smiling and helpful Superintendent of the park. You may see Julio on his 4-wheeler patrolling the beach during your stay. In the office you will also meet another helpful staff member, Lucy O’Neill, who will collect your fees. • Café Arenamar is located in the building adjacent to the site. The café has a great food and beverage menu including pastelillos, smoothies,
beer and cocktails, all deliverable to the beach or your table. Owners Erica and Chasti will even hack open a fresh coconut and hand you a straw. • Sites must be secured and paid for between 8:30am and 5pm. There is no limit to the number of days you can camp. • Sites are in a flat, grassy, fenced area, adjacent to the beach. There is no camping on the sand.
• Sleeping bags are acceptable. Tents are recommended but not required. • Charcoal grilling is permitted within the campsite area and there are permanent grills. You bring the charcoal. No cooking on the sand. There are some picnic tables on the beach.
• Campfires are not allowed. • Vehicles must be parked in the visitor parking area. • Quiet time begins at 10pm as a courtesy to the other campers. • A Security Guard is on duty from 3pm till 7am.
• Bathrooms are nearby. Showers are outside. No bathing in the bathrooms.
Remember, the beach area is part of the natural environment. Nesting sea turtles, horses and other wildlife inhabit the beaches. Avoid contaminating or spoiling their habitat in anyway.
Did you know? Sun Bay is available for parties and catered events. Typical rentals run from $115 to $300. Just ask Julio (787-741-8198). Wynne Carson Licensed Mortgage Loan Originator NMLS #1269939
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When
LORD OF THE FLIES
SUMMER OF â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;61
came to Vieques
BY JOSĂ&#x2030; CARRASQUILLO
The novel Lord of the Flies by William Golding is about a group of schoolaged children stranded on a desert island after a plane crash. The survivors elect a leader and agree to a democratic system, but soon civility gives way to chaos and violence as a savage nature lurking beneath a civilized exterior grows within the ranks. The 1963 film version of Lord of the Flies was shot almost entirely on Vieques in the summer of 1961. 49
A
ustralia had been chosen as the original film location, but at the last moment the government denied the filmmakers a permit. At that point, Puerto Rico became the alternate location. A producer’s scouting notes described Vieques: “We found an island off the coast of Puerto Rico. A jungle paradise with miles of palm-fringed beaches. They have lent us the island in exchange for a screen credit.” In addition to Vieques, principal photography took place on the main island; in Aguadilla for the cave scenes and El Yunque to augment the need for tropical density. After nearly 3 months, miles of film stock were shot on Vieques resulting in over 60 hours of footage. The film used 33 non-professional child actors, including 3 boys from Puerto Rico, to complement the improvisational techniques and documentary style of director Peter Brook.
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While the small film crew stayed at La Casa del Frances (a guesthouse that has since burned down), the young actors stayed at an abandoned pineapple cannery in Esperanza. Vieques native, Victor Simmons, currently an accountant in Isabel II, was 19 years old during the shoot and remembers when the film crew and cast came to the island. “I was going to the university and needed a summer job. My uncle told me he had one for me working to get the old cannery ready to house the young actors.” The remains of the building where the young actors were housed can still be seen driving south from The Green Store toward the Malecón. Tom Gaman, who played Simon, a key character in the movie, has written extensively about his experiences here during the filming. In his essay Flies, he writes: “It was one of those extraordinary things that happen in life… I was cast in Lord of the Flies, a
film produced on the Caribbean island of Vieques. Once there we stayed in a deserted pineapple cannery refurbished as a summer camp.” Gaman remembers that summer fondly: “Evenings and mornings were filled with a regimen of living in our warehouse, which was fitted with cots with mosquito netting. There was a kitchen, a wardrobe room and a makeup room where we all applied smelly makeup to our bodies.” When not filming, the kids snorkeled, explored the sugar cane plantations, published a paper called “The Vieques Variety”, played with a dog named Tramp, caught lizards, went fishing, played chess, “and lived the summer life of boys at camp.” Some of these everyday experiences were caught on film, like scenes where the kids are holding a hermit crab race or playing with lizards. A shot of a lizard jumping on the face of the young Mr. Gaman was immortalized in the film. Mr. Gaman, who now lives
F I L M DI R EC TO R
PETER BROOK
in California, recently spoke to The Vieques Insider and shared some of his life-long memories of Vieques and the process of making the film: “The first week, we did not shoot. The adults took the week to tell us about the story. Some of the final casting decisions happened later that week. I did not know I would be playing Simon. I thought I was playing someone else when I was asked if I thought I could play Simon. I think my white hair was a deciding factor because there was not another kid with white hair.” Mr. Gaman remembers the sojourns to Aguadilla and El Yunque, but maintains that most of the principal photography took place on the Caribbean side of Vieques, in particular, Sunbay, Media Luna and Navio. Complex sequences were shot at the far end of Playa Grande near the large rock formation. The original film has been digitally restored and made available in DVD/Blu-Ray. The film’s
visuals are as powerful as the book’s words and are a credit to the beauty and magic of Vieques. The look of the film was achieved with black and white cinematography and the use of a hand held camera – innovative techniques for a non-documentary feature film at the time. After the plane crash, the establishing location sequence takes place inside the Sunbay preserve where all three of the beaches, Sunbay, Media Luna and Navio, are spliced together to create a sense of a remote and dangerous place. In black, white and gray hues, the untamed island becomes an omnipresent character much like the beast that lurks in the darkness. In 1996, 35 years after the film was completed, the BBC shot a documentary called “Time Flies” in which the principal cast members returned to Vieques with Director Peter Brook. The documentary shows some of the locations used in the original film.
Mr. Brook is an important theatre figure. His book, The Empty Space, is considered the modern Bible of theatre. He termed the book Lord of the Flies “a beautiful fable.” Asked why he wanted to adapt the book into a film he said, “It was a good point in the world’s madness to show how easily people can slip back....” Dispensing of any script, Brook made the film on his own terms using the novel as the main source and improvising with his actors. He brought them to Vieques, gave them a broad outline of what they should be doing and then turned on the camera and observed their behavior. ..................................
WILLIAM GOLDING
William Golding was an English novelist, playwright, and poet. In 1983, he was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature (mostly) for having written Lord of the Flies. The dystopian novel is a seminal work believed to be among the best written and most controversial fiction in all of the English language. Golding was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II in 2008.
51
We put the bottle in the water on the 16th day of our atlantic crossing. POSITION
Navio
52
17° 21.230’N 044° 27.570’W
Message in a Bottle
ADVENTURE
AN UNEXPECTED TREASURE ON THE SHORES OF NAVIO BY TOM O’GRADY JR.
C’mon, we all know the stories. Tales of the sea, secret treasures, messages in bottles; Walt Disney made a fortune putting them on the big screen. But hey, it’s the movies, an escape from reality. In the real world that doesn’t happen. You can stand on a wide shore for days, gazing across a vast sea to an empty horizon, wondering if there’s anybody out there, and then go home alone. Or you can stand on the deck of a ship logging nautical miles, gazing across a vast sea to an empty horizon, wondering the same thing, and then sail away. Ah, to be in a movie. So imagine yourself walking down the beach and there, washed up on shore like Tom Hanks, is a bottle. No, not the usual Palo Viejo, Cruzan variety, but a clear glass bottle, with something in it. “We were just walking on Navio, looking for shells like always,” says Melissa Price of Wisconsin, the “we” referring to her husband, Todd, and daughter, Mallory. “This was Mallory’s first time on Vieques and we were going to different beaches to show her around. They were ahead of me and turned back and said, ‘Look what we found.’ We had never found anything that interesting before.” Melissa said it was immediately clear they’d found the proverbial message in a bottle. After leaving Navio in a state of curious excitement they settled down on Sun Bay, pondering their happenstance treasure and its visible contents; a post card and paper money. They also wondered how to open it. “It was corked and had black tape around it,” Melissa explained. Eventually, they decided to break the bottle over a trash can. “Then we tried to figure out what the postcard said. The money was from Trinidad & Tobago,” Melissa said, laughing with surprise. What surprised her was that the postcard said Schones Bayern, “Beautiful Bavaria” in German. The family had to do some pencil-rubbing work to read the address, which had smeared. Trinidadian money and a German postcard; hmmm. But the mystery was yet to be solved. So imagine yourself on a sailboat cruising to the Caribbean and you get this crazy idea; let’s put a message in a bottle and drop it out here in the deep blue sea. Who needs email? That’s what Gabriel and Nina Klee of Munich, Germany did on December 19th of last year while sailing their thirty-six foot boat, Adio. In May of 2014 the couple had boarded the boat in Antigua and sailed north to France in the hopes of continuing on to New Zealand, but Nina’s seasickness in rough weather changed their plans. After popping over to Germany by train to collect their belongings they headed back to the boat and set sail in August for the warm Caribbean winter. On the six-
teenth day of their trans-Atlantic sail south the thought of human contact was appealing. In a burst of adventurous whimsy, they dropped a present in the water. The post card was pre-addressed to their home in Germany and the money, picked up during their travels, was for postage. Mystery solved. After hearing the story from the Price family Vieques Insider initiated contact with the Klee couple and told them of the discovery. Pictures of the two families were exchanged. Nina writes (translated), “They look really friendly in the picture and it will be great to meet them and hear what they were thinking when they found the bottle. We are really happy that somebody found it and that they worked to read our postcard. We wish them all the best.” When asked about the variety and randomness of “The sea teaches you how people connect the that you are just a little Prices are equally lighthearted and introspective. thing in the world, and Todd Price wanted to right it doesn’t matter if you on the postcard; “Thanks are there or not. Maybe for the money, please send we are a little bit more more.” Melissa’s take? “This is our fourth time in relaxed about how things Vieques. We love to walk are going. We met a lot and explore its remote of people on our trip, all beaches. It is amazing that with all the miles and miles have the same problems, of shoreline, whether it repair the boat, no wind be restricted or rocky or or to much wind, where limited access, that we just simply walked up to this fun can you shop on the and interesting treasure.” cheap, where is a good Roll the cameras, Walt.
bay for anchorage. It is always the same, so you know you are not alone with your problems and you can make life easier when you talk to somebody.” -Nina Klee
53
River Photography River Karmen
riverkarmen@aol.com www.riverphotovieques.com
787.556.9030
Free postcards from viequestravel.com Over 100 designs to choose from at Roy’s Cafe in Isabel II.
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Rondalla • The Vieques Rondalla group had the unique opportunity to play with Grammy Award winner Edgar Abraham at the W Retreat and Spa.
Piña Colada anyone? • Meet Yamil Aloyo Corcino, bartender at W Pool Bar, and his trusty sidekick, Liany Grande, who will deliver a frosty treat with a smile that can’t be beat.
Vieques
island Tours,
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Esperanza fun. Friends party at La Nasa
OUT N ABOUT
Bachata • Friends practice their steps at La Nasa while a friend waits her turn.
DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME 12 x 12 • The annual 12x12 Vieques Humane Society Benefit Auction at the Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery.
Skydive for the Vieques Humane Society Caroline Kirkbright enjoys the rush of a tandem skydive to raise awaress for VHS.
VCHT • The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust celebrated its 30th year at El Blok.
Get your jump on! Pedro x and x jump from the old sugarcane pier in Esperanza.
Kayak Swing • Try it out at Abe’s store in Esperanza.
Vieques Stole Our Hearts 8 women from Miami celebrate a friend’s birthday in Vieques. 55
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VQS FACES
L I O N EL
ADAM S
COLON
YOU GOTTA “ SEE THIS KID.”
David Maldonado – Vieques Baseball Coach
We’re saving a seat for you. Vieques
•
P l aya
l a
c h i va
Sarah Lee/Alison’s Adventures
When you’re a third-generation Viequense it’s easy to love the ocean. It’s always there, all around, waiting for you to jump in. But Lionel Adams Colon, LC for short, has two passions in life, and the other one is enjoyed on dry land. It’s baseball, and between the two activities LC demonstrates acuity for both that goes beyond simple participation. LC spends a lot of time in the water, boogie boarding and snorkeling like most people. But he loves to spear fish, designing and making his own personal models. His passion makes him a savvy guy on and in the water. “He can look at any boat and tell by sight how many feet it is,” notes his friend and teammate, Rock Cates. “He can identify hundreds of species of fish and sea creatures. He knows by the look of the sea and the feel of the air if it is not a safe time to be on and in the ocean. Some of his favorite fishing accomplishments include catching a 100 pound tuna by rod and a 30 pound mackerel he shot spearfishing.” Cates knows his teammate well because every Sunday Lionel hops on the ferry to the main island then drives two hours to Cayey where they both attend ProBaseball Academy high school. His Vieques coach, David Maldonado, made the call to Carlos Rodriguez Marte, a college baseball scout and now the owner and coach of the Academy. “You gotta see this kid,” was all Maldonado said. LC had been pitching at a college level for over a year, throwing as hard as 85 miles per hour. His primary position is pitcher but he also plays outfield and third base. At a striking six foot three inches Lionel draws attention no matter where he plays. Last summer, he was noticed by another scout who took him to Cincinnati, Ohio for additional training. So where does a young man with his time split between the diamond and the deep blue sea go from here? He hopes to go to college at Miami Dade to study Marine Biology and, of course, play baseball.
57
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WORLDS CONNECTED
TIMELESS CONNECTIONS
In 1952
a teenage girl travels to Frankfurt, Germany and visits her mother’s synagogue, destroyed on the Night of Broken Glass (Kristallnacht - 1938). In the rubble strewn at her feet she reaches for a glimpse of light, of color, of life. A piece of floor tile, a remembrance, perhaps, of a time unknown to her yet part of her. It is of no monetary value, no priceless work of art. It is only the work of a tile maker, skilled in the craft of designing and forming it. But for the girl it is a keepsake, a palpable piece of time, tucked away like the memory of that disturbing visit, till time suggests its meaning be passed on. In 1991, the girl, now a woman and mother, gives the tile to her daughter who, like her mother, treasures it for the tangible history it represents, using it to teach others of a horrible but not to be forgotten time. In 2012, the woman travels to Vieques to escape the northern winter. As she always does, she combs the beach for unique gifts from the sea. On La Chata beach she once again reaches for light, color, life; tile fragments scattered over the shifting sands. She collects them, bits of life and history – offerings from the sea reminding her that we are all connected. She takes the tile fragments home to add to her collection.
That winter her daughter visits and notices the new pieces of tile, her mind piqued by the design. “Mom,” she says, “I thought you had only one tile from the synagogue? These tiles are exactly the same as my Frankfurt one.” Unknowingly, the woman had found a perfect match to the tile she picked up as a girl in the synagogue in Germany. Half buried in the sand of La Chata, the tile was the counterpoint to her relic and memory from a terrible time. These broken fragments, softened by the sea and time, represented a different time and place for the woman. The day to the night. The light to the dark. Beauty and brutality. To a mother and daughter the tiles are a tangible representation of the past, present, and future and the spirit of our ever changing lives… Elaine Gurian, a winter resident of Vieques for twenty seven years, was the girl who accompanied her mother, Hedwig Margot Messer, to the burnedout synagogue. Elaine’s daughter, Eve Gurian Wachhaus, current keeper of the synagogue tile, discovered the fragment similarities on a visit to Vieques. The tiles are Mediterranean Europe Majolica tiles, first produced in the late 1800s.
1700s This sword was found in 2012 by a snorkeler in the waters off Vieques. The style was common in the 1700s and is a style of cutlass known as a “hanger”. This type of sword was a favorite of pirates of the Caribbean and was ideal for close fighting. View the found sword and learn more at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. 59
spontanieques
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what a difference a day makes.
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WHERE TO DRINK & DINE BELLY BUTTONS 787-741-3336 Open everyday breakfast & lunch 9am-3pm; Paella w/Waldo Wed-6:30-9pm Mexican Thurs 5-9 BBQ Fri-Sun 5-9pm; Reservations requested. Beach Restaurant with the island’s best ribs and sandwiches! Ocean views on the quiet side of the Malecón. .................................. BLUE MOON BAR & GRILL at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Everyday 9am-11pm Sun pasta night 1-9pm Circular artistic hand painted bar. A great place to meet! Open 365 days. .................................. BUEN PROVECHO 787-529-7316 Mon 8am - 4pm Tues - Sat 8am - 6pm Deli, Market, Café, Wine & Spirits. Breakfast, lunch and occasional pop-up dinners. Next to Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery in Isabel II. .................................. CARAMBOLA AT THE BLUE HORIZON BOUTIQUE RESORT 787-741-3318 Breakfast 7:00am - 12:00pm Lunch 12 -pm - 3 -pm Dinner 3:00pm - 10pm Great local and international dishes served in Caribbean fashion. Open 365 days. Beautiful, unique setting overlooking the ocean. .................................. CHICKEN KING AND ICE CREAM 787-741-5464 Open everyday. Roasted and fried chicken, hand dipped ice-cream, burgers, sandwiches and more! ..................................
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CONUCO 787-741-2500 Tues - Sat 5:30 9:30pm Cocina Puertorriqueña. Authentic Puerto Rican food in a warm elegant atmosphere. Located in Isabel II across from Banco Popular. ........................ COQUI FIRE CAFÉ 787-741-0401 Mon - Fri 5-9pm Gourmet Mexican food, reservations recommended. Isabel II .................................. DUFFY’S ESPERANZA 787-741-7600 Everyday 11-close Diverse menu and daily specials. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, local fish specials and chef’s specials. On the Malecón Esperanza .................................. EL SOMBRERO VIEJO BAR & LIQUOR STORE 787-741-2416 Everyday 12noon-after midnight. Local bar, hang out and wine cellar. .................................. JOSÉ ENRIQUE AT EL BLOK 787-741-6020 Sun-Wed Bar: 5pm-12am Restaurant 6-10pm Thurs-Sat Bar:5:00pm-1 am Restaurant 6-10:30 C aribbean flavors with locally sourced products. Mesquite fired grilled-whole fish, beef & pork porterhouse. Offering whole roasted chickens and a large selection of smaller dishes. .................................. L’MIRADOR at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Pizza Fri & Sat 4-11 pm Fun, lively setting with ocean view. Open 365 days. ..................................
It’s high season and the island bars and restaurants are hoppin’!
MAR AZUL 787-741-3400 Fri-Mon 10am-close Tues-Thurs 3pm12am Quality Pub Food / Late Night Snacks. Awesome sunsets and cocktails. Karaoke Sat. Isabel II up from the ferry. .................................. NEXT COURSE 787-741-1028 FRI. - WED. 5:30-10pm Caribbean lobster, local market fish, house dry aged beef, home made pastas. A menu that encompasses American cuisine with Caribbean flair with something for everyone. .................................. PLACITA REYES Farmers Market Tues, Wed, & Fri 7am-4pm intersection of 200 and 201 .................................. SMOOTHIE GIRL Fresh fruit smoothies across from the ferry everyday. .................................. SORCÉ AT THE W HOTEL 787-741-7022 Everyday 7:30-11am Breakfast 1 -3pm Lunch 6-10pm Dinner. Modern Puerto Rican cuisine showcasing local produce & seasonal ingredients. Reservations requested. All are welcome. .................................. TAVERNA 787-438-1100 Thurs-Monday Open at 5:30 closed Tues. and Wed. Italian restaurant and pizzeria. .................................. TINBOX 787-741-7700 Tues-Sat. 5-10pm Happy Hour 4-6pm $2 Tacos Sunday brunch 11-3pm Sushi, Smokehouse, oysters, daily specials and artisan draft beer. ..................................
TRADEWINDS 787-741-8666 Fresh Seafood, Steaks, Pasta, Paella, and more! Lobster specials nightly. Happy hour 5-6:30pm Dinner 5:30-9:30 Nightly Breakfast 7:30-11:30 and Lunch 11:30-2pm overlooking the ocean. On the Malecón Esperanza .................................. W CAFÉ AT THE W HOTEL 787-741-7056 Everyday 7am-3pm Freshly made smoothies, Puerto Rican Coffee and Made to order sandwiches and Gourmet fare – Open to Public – all are welcome. ..................................
insider tip
To avoid having to wait at a restaurant or worse yet, not getting a table, please make reservations.
WHAT TO DO SPECIAL WEEKLY EVENTS
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
EVERYDAY
April 5 Easter • Brunch the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort
Happy Hour, Mar Azul, 5-7pm Trade Winds Restaurant Happy Hour 5:00-6:30 Sunset Happy Hour Arenamar Sunbay Café Yoga everyday at W, 8:15 am BY APPOINTMENT
TRX training 315-440-0791
TUESDAY-SUN
Vinasa Yoga w/Jennifer, at Hix Island House’s Yoga Pavillion, 9:30am TUES, WED & FRI
Farmer’s Market 8am-4pm on Route 201 intersecting with Route 200 MONDAY
Kripalu Yoga with Valerie Sunbay 9:30 am Rotary Meetings check www.rotaryvieques. com for time and location TUESDAY
LAST WED OF EACH MONTH
Monthly birthday party at El Sombrero Viejo, 7pm THURSDAY
Game Night at El Sombrero Viejo, 7pm Throwback Thursday at Conuco. Chef Rebecca Betancourt brings back one of her classic dishes. Bomba class with Erika. 7pm Esperanza Biblioteca Electronica Mexican Night, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm 787.741.3336 Kripalu Yoga with Valerie Sunbay 9:30 am FRIDAY
Lobster Specials at Tradewinds, 787 741-8666 Live Music & Open Jam, Mar Azul 9pm-1am, Pizza Nights, Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm 787.741.3318
$12.99 Dinners at Mar Azul, 5-9pm
Belly Buster BBQ Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm
Play Date Get the kids together in Esperanza Park 3-5pm
SATURDAY
WEDNESDAY
Paella night w/ Waldo, Belly Buttons 6-9pm, reservations requested 787.741.3336 Seafood Gala, fry and broil at Tradewinds Restaurant, 5:30-9:30pm Pilates Class, Sunbay 10am
Pizza Nights- Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm Karaoke at Mar Azul, 10pm Belly Buster BBQ Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm
SUNDAY
Paella Special at Tradewinds Belly Buster BBQ Dinner Night, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm Sunday Funday Jr. Get the kids together @ Sunbay 12-4pm Quaker Worship Group 10 AM Villa Borinquen 732 713 5047. Last Sunday of each month Concert with municipal band 6pm on the terrace at El Fortín Conde de Mirasol Belly Buster Dinners, Belly Buttons 5-9pm
April 11 • Art Opening Flor de Guayacán, at El Fortín Conde de Mirasol April 17-18 • Cultural Festival at El Fortín Conde de Mirasol Sat April 4, Sun May 3, Tues June 2 Full Moon Drum Circle Bring a chair and a drum or percussion instrument/ or just bring yourself... NO experience necessary! All about Fun and rhythm and the moon and the beach. Come Drum! 6-8pm April 22 • Earth Day May 5 • An afternoon of music and poetry at El Fortín Conde de Mirasol Sunday, May 10th Mother’s Day Dinner at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort Three Course Dinner, Glass of Bellini, and Live Music $35 per person Seatings 4:00, 6:00, and 8:00pm Island Dinner Attire
VIEQUES CONSERVATION AND HISTORICAL TRUST EVENTS April 2 Playa Grande Tour 9:00am – 12:00pm meet at Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust in Esperanza MANTA PROGRAM
SEE PG 41 FOR MORE INFO.
June 1-12 MiniManta 5-8 yrs June 15-26 Mantaraya 9-12 yrs June29-July 10 Manta 13-17 July 20-24 or 27-31 Mantastic! 8-15 yrs Sponsors needed for local explorers.
If you have activities or events that you would like to post in the summer/fall issue of Vieques Insider (July-Nov), please email kelly@viequesinsider.com
June 8-19th Gallery Galleon ARt Camp for Kids 9-1 Monday - Friday $65/Camper (sponsors needed) please call 787-741-3078 for more infromation June 14, 2015 Father’s Day Dinner at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort Three Course Dinner, Glass of Sangria, and Live Music $35 per person Seatings 4:00, 6:00, and 8:00pm Island Dinner Attire 787-741-3318
AA(ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS) 787 741 0639 Mon. & Tues • Open Mtg 5:30pm Esperanza/ Bldg. behind the Trust-Malecon Weds • 6pm Open Mtg Behind Catholic Church /Isabel II Thurs. • 8:30am Playa Gallito/Gringo Beach Open Mtg Fri. • 6pm Closed Mtg Behind Catholic Church Isabel II Sat & Sun • 10:30am Open Mtg. Behind Catholic Church Isabel II ALANON (FRIENDS AND FAMILY OF ALCOHOLICS) 207.869.0925
Weds • 9am Behind Catholic Church Isabel II NA(NARCOTICS ANONYMOUS) 508 873 4576 Thurs 6pm Behind Catholic Church Isabel II
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Sarah Lee/Alison’s Adventures
SOUTH SHORE BEACHES PUBLIC BEACHES * -GATE $2 ........................................................
SUNBAY* Accessible by the gated entrance off 997, Sunbay is a one mile stretch of beach. Sunbay has lifeguards and bathhouse. The entrance is 5 miles from Isabel II and 0.7 miles from Esperanza (the Malecon). There is a $2 entrance fee. ........................................................
MEDIA LUNA* Enter the gated
entrance off 997 at Sunbay. Follow the dirt road at the end of Sunbay and travel 0.6 more miles to Media Luna. Great for small children, Media Luna is shallow. You can walk 30 ft out into the water and still be in waist deep water. Also, for a free “spa experience,” enjoy an exfoliation from the silky, fine sand. ........................................................
you can also park at Media Luna and walk to Navío. Go into the cave on the left side of the beach (if facing the water) for an excellent photo spot! There’s good surf so bring your boogie board! ........................................................
BEACHES ON THE VIEQUES FISH AND WILDLIFE REFUGE* For reference, Sol Food is parked right in front of the entrance to the FWS Refuge ........................................................
ESPERANZA BEACH To the east and
Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to a sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1.5 more miles. No shade except for picnic gazebos in the grass area. Watch out for the sandburs! (see below). Be very careful where you step when you are in the grassy area and kids should wear their shoes down to the sand (or water’s edge). Note: Only park in the parking lot, and not in the cul-de-sac at the very end, to avoid fines. ........................................................
west of the fishing piers in Esperanza. ........................................................
PLAYA GRANDE Leave Esperanza on 996 going west and come to a T (rt. 201). Take a left. Go 1 mile to where the road dead ends and take a left. Follow road to the bottom of the hill. Take a right onto dirt road to find a beach spot. Great beach for walking. Playa Grande is a turtle nesting beach so be sure to keep dogs on a leash and watch out for roped off nests. ........................................................
PLAYA NEGRA (BLACK SAND BEACH) Leave Esperanza on 996 going
CARACAS* From 997, turn into the FWS
PLAYUELA* From 997, turn into the
FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to the brown sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1 mile to brown sign for Playuela and Tres Palmitas. Turn right and drive 2 minutes to the sign and take the walking path to the left to get to the beach. A short walk and you’re there!
west. Come to T (201) and take left. Drive 0.1 mile and there will be a guard rail and small pull off on your left. Park here. [It is easier to turn around if you drive 100 feet more to Gallery Galleon and turn around in drive just past entrance to Gallery.] Walk down the path to the dried stream bed and follow to the right.It is about a 20 minute walk to the beach. If it has for the Coast rained, stream bed will actually Sandbur be a small stream. Bring bug very prevelant spray and water. at Caracas and Pata Prieta and painful to step on.
Watch out!
NAVIO* Follow directions to Media Luna but pass Media Luna and take a left at the sign and go another 0.3 miles. The road is extremely rough and 4wd is required but
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EL GALLITO Pass the W on 200 going
......................................................
PATA PRIETA* From 997, turn into
west and look for a parking area and short peninsula on your right. The beach is on the right. Great place to be at sunset! Excellent photo spot! ........................................................
BLAYDIN BEACH OR MOSQUITO BEACH Follow direc-
the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles. Pass turn to Caracas and continue straight on dirt road for aprox 1 mile and turn right at Pata Prieta sign. After 0.2 miles, follow the road to the right to a small parking area with sign. Walk down the (slippery) gravel path to the left of the sign to the beach. Rough road so 4wd is recommended. Bring a beach umbrella as there is little shade! ........................................................
LA CHIVA* From 997, turn into the
FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles to the end of the paved road. Pass the sign for Caracas and continue straight on the dirt road. La Chiva has numbered spots #1-21. At marker #15 the road splits so stay right if you want to explore La Chiva spots #16-21. ........................................................
LA PLATA* Follow directions to La
Chiva but when road splits take left and go 0.5 miles to reach La Plata. ........................................................
NORTH SHORE BEACHES SEA GLASS BEACH Drive into Isabel II on 200 and make a left onto main street (Calle Muñoz Rivera). Almost at the end of the street you will see an intersection with a church on your right. Make a left here and at the next intersection make a right. Park on the street (not in the yellow!) and walk to the left of the gazebo down a path to the beach. .............................
EL PARQUE CEIBA Go west on 201 aproximately 1 mile past the airport and follow the sharp curve to the right.Go down a small hill and the Ceiba tree is on your right. Enjoy the Ceiba tree without climbing, marking or damaging the roots. ........................................................
ROMPEOLAS Follow directions to the Ceiba tree but pass the Ceiba and continue on the main road to the left.Take the next right at the empty concrete structure with parking lot and this road will take you to the pier. Rompeolas pier is 1 mile long so it is great for beginning joggers or walkers! Great snorkeling on the left side of the pier. . .
tions to the pier but right before going out onto the pier there is a small sandy road to the left that leads to a shallow beach. There are lots of starfish here so be very careful where you step! ........................................................
PUNTA ARENAS Follow directions to Rompeolas but go past turn for pier and drive aproximately 2 miles. You will come to a sign that says you are entering FWS Refuge. Drive 1 mile and come to a T / there are spots to the left and to the right with the best snorkeling to your left. Much of Punta Arenas has eroded away so, in many places, there is not a beach to sit on until further down on the right. No-see-ums tend to come out in the afternoon so make it a morning excursion and bring your bug spray! ........................................................
BUNKERS To see the hidden Navy bunkers follow directions to Rompeolas but keep straight past the turn for pier. Drive 2 miles and take the second paved road to the left. This road is a short loop that will bring you back to the same road. IF YOU DON’T HAVE TIME TO EXPLORE THEM ALL, THESE ARE INSIDER FAVORITES!
LA CHATA Drive by the ferry on your left and go up the steep hill to the right of El Yaté Bar. Go by the lighthouse on your left and take the next right down a steep little hill. Curve to your left and follow along this shoreline road. Pass La Lanchita on left and drive aproximately 0.35 miles to a left turn onto a small dirt drive with two palms and large rocks at the end. La Chata! Keep your eyes open for sea glass. Many people come here to exercise their horse. Don’t be surprised if you are swimming with horses! ........................................................
Fill Up or Top Off! During high season [Thanksgiving through Easter] and holidays the two gas stations on the island routinely run out of gas. The gas trucks come on the ferry so it can be a long wait if you run out, sometimes up to 45 minutes! So if the lines at the station are not long, stop in. When it is busy the lines form in one direction only and sometimes go around the block. So if you see an empty spot at the pump, before pulling in, check to see if there is a line coming from the opposite direction. Go with cash, they don’t take debit or credit cards. Fix a Flat Pick one of these up at any convenience store or gas station on the island and save yourself a lot of trouble. Flats happen and usually not in the most convenient places. Just connect, inflate and go! It will only seal temporarily so call your rental company for directions on where to go to get it fixed. Leave No Trace Remember to leave the beach just as you found it. If you or your children dig holes or make sand castles, level the sand before you go. Many beaches are turtle nesting beaches and baby sea turtles can get stuck in a hole or diverted by sand mounds on their way to the ocean.
PATA PRIETA
Cell Service at the Beach If you are hoofing it and do not have a rental car, hire a publico to take you to the less accessible beaches. Remember to arrange a pick up time before you leave the publico because cell service isn’t available at many of the beaches! Publico numbers are listed on page 35. 65
Vieques
lat 18.1263 long 65.4401
Isabel II Rompeolas
AiRpoRt
feRRy
GAS / ATM POLICE GAS / ATM
punta Arenas
US FISH
pue fe Mosquito / Bioluminescent Bay
Sunbay playa Grande
Esperanza Cayo Afuera
Cayo de tierra
Media Luna
Navío
Isabel II (locals refer to as “town”)
4 miles
Vieques
Esperanza
21 miles
accoModations / vacation Rentals .................................. accomodations A1 Blue Horizon Boutique Resort A2 Bravo Beach Hotel (BBH) A3 Casa Amistad A4 Casa La Lanchita A5 Crow’s Nest A6 El Blok A7 Flamboyan Guesthouse A8 Hacienda Tamarindo A9 Hector’s by the Sea A10 Hix Island House A11 La Finca Caribe A12 Malecon House / Boutique A13 Sea Gate Hotel A14 Trade Winds and gift shop A15 Tropical Guest House A16 Villa Coral A17 W Vieques .................................. vacation rental houses A18 Casa Vieques A19 Cookies Paradise A20 El Cerro A22 Villa Uno .................................. real estate A23 Bravos Boyz A24 Island Real Estate A25 Rainbow Realty A26 Sun Realty A27 Vieques Realty & Rentals
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aRt galleRies / MuseuMs / photogRaphy .................................. art Galleries / museums B1 Fuerte Conde Mirasol B2 Gallery Galleon B3 Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery B4 Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust .................................. PhotoGraPhy B5 Jennifer Teeter B6 River Photography aiR / caR .................................. airlines C1 Cape Air C2 Vieques Air Link .................................. car rental C3 Avis C4 Chepito’s C5 Island Car Rental C6 Island Jeep Rental C7 Maritza’s C8 Vieques Car Rental .................................. constRuction D1 Arquitecto, Stanley Hutchinson D2 EDK Design Services D3 Navarro Construction D4 Paul Lutton, Arquitecto D5 Vieques Locksmith
RecReation .................................. bio bay / snorkelinG E1 Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay E2 BlackBeard Sports (2 locations) E3 Blue Waters Adventures E4 Fun Brothers E5 JAK Water Sports E6 Taino Aqua Adventures ................................. sPortinG clays E7 Vieques Sporting Clays ................................. fishinG E8 Amity Charters E9 Caribbean Fly Fishing Co. E10 Fin Time Adventures .................................. jet skis E11 Fun Brothers .................................. sailinG E12 AHOY Vieques E13 Caribbean Lady E14 Fin Time Adventures E15 LittleBoat Sailing E16 Marauder Sailing E17 Sea Vieques E18 Vieques Classic Charter E19 Vieques Island Powercat ..................................
................................. Paddleboard E21 SUP StandUp Paddle E22 Vieques Paddleboarding .................................. surf E23 Playa Voltios .................................. scuba E24 Isla Nena Scuba horseback ridinG E25 Esperanza Riding Company E26 Sea Gate Horseback Riding E27 Taxi Horses ..................................
RestauRants/ BaRs /gRoceRy .................................. F1 Aguacate F2 Arenamar Café F3 Awesome Yogurt & Fruits F4 Belly Buttons F5 Blue Moon @ Blue Horizon F6 Buen Proveco F7 Bilí F8 Carambola @ Blue Horizon F9 Chicken King & Ice Cream F10 Conuco F11 Coquí Fire F12 Duffy’s Esperanza F13 El Sombrero Viejo F14 El Quenepo F15 José Enrique @ El Blok F16 L’Mirador @ Blue Horizon F17 Mar Azul F18 Morales F19 Next Course F20 Noche F21 Pescaderia/Fish Market F22 Roys Internet Café F23 Smoothie Gals F24 Sorcé W F25 Taverna F26 Tin Box F27 Trade Winds F28 W Café
ReStRiCteD AReA
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La platita ensenada Honda
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pata prieta pirates’ Cove
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Bromelias
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For A List Of Our Holiday Special Event Menu’s Visit ViequesInsider.com/Events Opens Daily for :
An Island Restaurant
Breakfast 7:00am to 12:00pm Lunch 12:00pm to 3:00pm Dinner 3:00pm to 10:00pm Blue Moon Bar & Grill
An Island Rendezvous
Opens Daily from. 9:00am to 11:00pm
Holiday Special Events: 4th of July Labor day Columbus day Thanksgiving
Ocean Front Barefoot Elegance
L'Mirador Opens Fridays and Saturdays From 4:00pm to 11:00pm Sundays From 1:00pm to 9:00pm
If It’s The Only Thing You Do. . . 68
Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Have Not Seen Vieques Till You've Come To The Blue
The TripAdvisor Recommended Boutique Resort
Enjoy The Leeward Side Of Vieques... Rd 996 Km. 4.3... 1 Kilometer Past Esperanza 787.741.3318 BlueHorizonBoutiqueResort.com 69