Vieques Insider Dec/Jan 2014/15

insider [V I E Q U E S ]

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY • 2 0 1 4 / 1 5 vol. 1 issue 2 • 787.435.3172

CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES

Sea to table F O L L OW I N G D E L I C AC I E S FROM FISHERMAN TO FORK p g . 3 7- 4 3

Bay of magic V I E Q U E S B I O B AY BRIGHTEST IN T H E WO R L D pg. 25

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AMAZING B E AC H E S pg. 66-67

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October 2014

The man behind what might be the fun restaurant is Jose Enrique himself, most world’s at his restaurant the F&W Best New Chef 2013 serves Latin American food that’s both vibrant and thoughtful…. his first restaurant outside San Juan, on the island of Vieques, El Blok, in the hotel of the same name, opens late summer, with an emphasis on grilled dishes.

He is confident the hotel restaurant will be as great as his flagship, where the party goes on until... Food and Wine El Blok is easily the most stylish in the Caribbean... Travel and Leisure hotel new

BAR

horas 4:30pm - 12.00am (sunday - wednesday)(full bar menu) 4:30pm - 1.00am (thursday-saturday)

RESTAURANT

horas 6:00pm - 10:00 (Sunday - wednesday) 6:00pm - 10:30 (Thursday-Saturday) 21 Habitaciones desde $195.00 Restaurant Reservations: opentable.com Restaurant & Hotel Reservations: Elblok.com 158 Calle Flamboyan, Esperanza, Vieques, PR 00765 Tel. 787.741.6020 Fax. 212 208.2566 elblok.com

HOTEL

BAR + RESTA

b

2

URANT by

by

Island ambience.

Amazing food.

Next Course

c u i s i n e i n s p i r e d b y t r av e l

sample ........menu Pan seared jumbo Scallops, wild mushroom duxelle, potato nest, white truffle drizzle, pancetta dust

Reopening Dec. 19th

Open friday – wed.

5:30 pm–10 pm Open Christmas & New Years Holidays

787-741-1028

Reservations Appreciated

nextcourseinfo@yahoo.com

Maple Leaf Duck confit, flat bread tartine, mission fig compote, shoe string shallots, smoked crème fresh House dry aged beef Carpaccio, Manny’s mix greens, pickled red onion, capers, grain mustard Cesar, Parmigiano Reggiano In house dry aged beef cut of the day, herb butter, twice baked potato pie, grilled tomato confit Butter poached Caribbean lobster, white truffle scented crab risotto, prosciutto bound asparagus, caramelized fennel cream.

Salads, light appetizers, and tapas too!

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4

TUES–SAT 11–5

lindsey molyneux Marc De Lucia

richie kessler

A NEW SEASON OF FINE ART IN VIEQUES 2014— 2015 SEASON

(All openings are Fridays 5:30-7:30 pm )

nov. 28th: Sandra Reyes Solo Show jan. 30th: HORSES

A portion of proceeds will be donated to help our island horses.

feb. 27th: Cape Cod McGuire’s in Vieques

Michael & Colin McGuire

mar 27th: Above & Below:

Photography of Vieques

Check our Website page, Twitter @gallerygalleon and Facebook page, Gallery Galleon for information and updates!

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EDITOR, PUBLISHER WEB MASTER ART DIRECTION / DESIGN GENERAL ASSISTANT PRINTER

Letter from the Editor ...............................................

STONE SOUP

Welcome to Vieques and the second issue of Vieques Insider! In this edition we hope to give you a feel for the “gusto” of the island. In Spanish, “gusto” means many things including flavor, zest, taste and pleasure, characteristics we can apply to the lives we lead as well as the food we eat. Fittingly, along with the delicious, lipsmacking food available in our unique restaurants, I’ve come to appreciate a Vieques island essence, richly flavored by the heart of its people, the sweetness of island life, and a consommé of symbiotic energy that flows from putting these things together.

Like the old folk story Stone Soup, where villagers create a feast by each adding their own ingredient to the pot of boiling water and stones, this issue was all about collaboration and local offerings.

Start with local fisherman, Chelao, who I worried was going to leave me in the middle of the ocean when I jumped from his boat to get a good photo of him hauling in his catch of the day. I thought of the delicate meal soon to be prepared from his efforts at sea, in stark contrast to his lunch of canned spaghetti heated by the boat’s engine. Add to that, Liz and Larissa, two women testing and cooking honey, fruit and essential oils in a hot kitchen resulting in a local body product line. Imagine a metalsmith, hunched over a table, blow torch in her hand, pounding out designs to be sold in the stores. Toss in a pinch of beachcombers searching for sea glass to incorporate into jewelry designs, a dash of beekeepers working the hives to produce local honey, and two cups of brave farmers who coax sprouts, greens, tomatoes and herbs from the sunbaked earth. A deep connection can be formed to the people and the island as stories unfold of their daily work.

This issue was created by setting a pot on to boil and allowing the special ingredients the character and characters of the island to jump in. Then I just kept stirring! I hope you find the results as flavorful as life here on Vieques. Buen Provecho!

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Kelly Thompson

KELLY THOMPSON MARC MARGATE KELLY THOMPSON CHEO DIAZ MALDONADO IMPRESSIONS ASSOCIATES

PHOTOGRAPHY

KELLY THOMPSON

PHOTOGRAPHY

STEVE SIMONSEN

787.435.3172

WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM info@viequesinsider.com

C O N T R I B U TO R S Scott D. Appell, the Green Man, originally from NYC, is a garden writer, horticultural taxonomist and ethnobotanist. He writes, gardens, and teaches horticulture on Vieques, PR. He happens to be a professional baker as well.

Mark Martin Bras plays an important role in protecting and preserving the ecological environment of Vieques as well as educating the youth through his daily work and Manta programs at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. He has helped redefine light pollution standards for Puerto Rico and is working tirelessly to preserve and study the BioBay. Jane Chadwick has been living on Vieques for 13 years. Currently the president of the Humane Society, she is very active in bettering the welfare and treatment of the animals on Vieques Nancy Gilbert has lived on Vieques since 2007 and is very involved with the non-profit groups and youth organizations of the island.

Tom Kirkbright, a USCG Licensed Captain, and his wife Caroline first landed foot on Vieques in 2004. They fell in love with its people, beaches and charm.

They bought a house and moved from NJ to enjoy the island life and spend time “On The Water”.

Tom O’Grady Jr. is an author and freelance writer from Philadelphia with literature and writing degrees from Temple University (B.A.) and Rutgers University (M.A.). Tom has written in numerous commercial genres including business and training, marketing and advertising and newspaper and magazine features. He has focused on writing fiction for the last five years and has published three novels, all available on Amazon.com and select stores. He lives on Vieques with his wife, Liz, where he is currently writing a fourth novel.

Tania Puell has dabbled in many careers. She’s worked as a blacksmith, a math teacher, a Web designer and developer and, most recently, owner and operator of Isla Nena Scuba.

Arnaud Erhart started diving with his uncle when he was 11 years old. After waywardly wandering down paths of sommelier school, restaurant management and ownership, he has finally happily installed himself as owner and operator of Isla Nena Scuba.

Jose Carrasquillo has lived in Vieques for 10 years. Stateside he’s a theatre director and educator. Here in paradise, Jose is the co-owner of a guesthouse, works as a volunteer for not-profit organizations, and logs in hundreds of miles every year running all over Vieques. Back in August Jose completed his 50th marathon in Akron, Ohio.

Steve Simonsen is a photographer and underwater naturalist residing on St. John. Steve specializes in underwater, aerials, villa and resort photography and video.

J U LI E D E C HTE R OWNER/BROKER #11261 SE HABLA ESPANOL

email: info@viequesrealtyandrentals.com

787.741.0330 www.viequesrealtyandrentals.com

Casa Limones This spacious home sits on 15 mountain-top acres of prime land in the exclusive La Llave sector of Puerto Real. There are water vistas in every direction, with views of the Atlantic to the north and the Caribbean to the south. A series of vaulted pavilions with a total of four bedrooms and three bathrooms, give the home an open, inviting feel. The pool, seamlessly joined to the expansive outside terraces, is 32 feet long, 16 feet wide and 8 feet deep, an ideal size for swimming laps. Great care has been taken with the landscaping of Casa Limones, with lush, manicured tropical gardens surrounding the house, and the remainder of the property consisting of pasture and natural jungle. Casa Limones is a property that was thoughtfully and lovingly created, offered now at a very attractive price. $1,390,000 http://casalimones-vieques.com

moCkingbird hiLL Secluded, five acre Pilon estate with two beautifully finished and furnished homes, gorgeous pool pavilion, both Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean views and surrounded by emerald green tropical forest. Turn-key and with rental history. $695,000

h i L Lto p haCienda

Luxury villa offers spectacular ocean views and modern accommodations with 5 deluxe bedrooms on 2 oceanview levels that are both fully equipped and great for large groups. Beautiful new pool with panoramic ocean views, large outdoor living space & terrace and passion fruit, guava and coconut garden. The large outdoor living area with additional living room & dining room offers sweeping views of St Thomas, Puerto Rico and Culebra. Only a 1 minute walk to Bastimento beach where wild horses often roam. $410,000

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STEVE SIMONSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

ON THE COVER

SEA TO TABLE

The Team (Left To Right): Janet Simonsen, Tom Kirkbright, Sarah Carbia, Orland Iglesias, Steve Simonsen, Kelly Thompson, Cheo Diaz Maldonado, Tania Puell, Arnaud Erhart, José Carasquillo, Carlos Miró

C R E AT I N G A N D P H OTO G R A P H I N G A N U N D E R WAT E R R E S TA U R A N T S C E N E

“It’s sounds like a crazy idea. I’m in.”

It all started with me waking up at 3am and saying to Cheo, “I have an idea for the magazine cover - a table set for two. Underwater, with a couple in full evening dress, dining in a watery, Great Gatsby fantasy world.”

Him murmurring, half asleep, “Yep, that sounds about right. Sounds like a lot of work.” Smart man. He was right.

But the idea became my obsession for the next four weeks. Every time I tossed it out to colleagues and friends it seemed to sizzle and pop in the hot summer air, gaining momentum and speed. Some thought it was completely crazy.

Zany, crazy ideas attract, well...zany, crazy people.

Tania and Arnaud, safety divers and owners of Isla Nena Scuba, donated countless hours in planning and assisting before and during the shoot. Surfer-couple, Sarah Carbia and Orland Iglesias became perfect models, able and deft at posing and holding their breath underwater. Sarah, a kindred spirit of my crazy concept and also a jewelry designer, made all of her own jewelry for the shoot. Orland, not necessarily swept away by the idea, saw the writing on the water wall. “If it makes my wife happy and she is having fun, I’ll do it.” Phew!

So I had the location, the models, the table, the dress, the chandelier, even waterproof makeup sponsored

by Lancome. I had the help of VCHT to ensure that we didn’t damage the environment under the pier during the shoot. Now, all I needed was a photographer with underwater equipment.

A stroke of luck came through my good friend Michelle Haynes, editor of Cape Air’s in-flight magazine, Birds Eye View. She introduced me to Steve Simonsen from St. John. His response to the project? “It sounds like a crazy idea. I’m in.” Cape Air sponsored the project by flying Steve and all of his equipment to Vieques.

Mark Spier, owner of Casa Angular, donated his villa for a few days for Steve and his wife Janet, a couple whose creative genius (Steve) and business sense (Janet) are simply unstoppable.

One day before the shoot, a thick island of seaweed floated along the south shore, reaching the pier where it stayed trapped like a wet prickly blanket, blocking all the light needed to filter through the water into our underwater studio. One day after the shoot, Tropical storm Gonzalo was named and looked like it was headed straight to Vieques. But the conditions on the day of the actual photoshoot? Perfect.

The shot on the cover was just one of 400 takes. Orland, weighted, would dive down as Sarah pulled herself down a secured rope, then run a few steps across the ocean floor where she floated up to Orland as he reached out for her. Exhausting work, but each time, they embraced in a perfectly relaxed pose, sometimes even kissing underwater. It was magical to watch. As fish darted up and down like music notes, flashing underwater strobes glinted off Sarah’s dress and a chandelier rocked in the waves. I swear I could almost hear a Duke Ellington song in the surreal light.

THANK YOU TO THE SPONSORS

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(787) 981 - 4109

info@FinTimeAdventures.com

Based In

Vieques, Puerto Rico

Snorkeling, Fishing, and Custom Adventures Vieques and Culebra Boat Excursions

Fin Time Adventures offers spectacular snorkeling, fishing, and custom boat charters in Vieques, Puerto Rico. Climb aboard the only vessel on the island with regularly scheduled snorkeling trips to the coast of Culebra and Flamenco Beach.

Reef Snorkeling Early Bird & Sunset Trips Swim with Sea Turtle Blue Water & Bottom Fishing Snacks & Non-Alcoholic Beverages Private Charters & Custom Adventures ...and much more Se Habla Español.....

Ven a disfrutar de tu aventura entre las aguas de Vieques y Culebra.

BOOK NOW (787) 981 - 4109 or online www.FinTimeAdventures.com

getting here Fly from San Juan International (SJU) to VQS • 30 minute flight, starting at $109 one way www.capeair.com www.viequesairlink.com www.airsunshine.com

Fly from Isla Grande Airport (SIG) to VQS • 17 minute flight, 10 minute cab ride from SJU-aprox. $20 trip (not per person) Airfare starting at $72 one way www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com

Fly from Ceiba Airport (RVR) to VQS • 7 minute flight Aprox 1hr cab ride from San Juan to Ceiba $100 trip (not per person) plus airfare starting at $34 one way / 7 minute flight Note: Publico Vans are located right outside baggage claim at SJU and can seat up to 10-12 people. www.airflamenco.net www.viequesairlink.com

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tech tip

FLIGHT OR FERRY?

San Juan International (SJU) to Fajardo Ferry to Vieques 1 hour cab ride + 1.5 hour ferry ride 1 hour cab ride to Fajardo ferry port $100 (aprox) • Ferry ticket $2 Vans can seat up to 10 people. Cost is per trip, not per person. [ Be prepared to wait or possibly be bumped if ferry is full! Vieques residents are seated first. It is not uncommon for the ferry to be late]

Marine Traffic App displays near real-time positions of ships and ferries worldwide.

Check if the ferry has left Fajardo or Vieques and where it is en route!

Creative Puerto Rican Cuisine

Vieques Catering Weddings and eVents

Restaurant Open Thurs – Tues. • 11am to 10pm Weekends closing time 11pm • Closed on Wednesdays

787.741.1382 Choose Vieques Catering to cater and plan your wedding or event. Custom care and attention to detail is our speciality. And, of course, the food! Menus customized for you.

Catering by Chef Eva Bolivar

www.viequescatering.com

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Moon Calendar 2014 1

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8

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10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

2015

Did you know?

Photo taken by Donna Cisneros at Puenta Arena on June 18, 2014. Donna and Lynn Radey, members of The Vieques Snorkel Group were surprised by this 10 to 12 foot Manatee while heading back to the beach in approximately 8 feet of water.

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That our Caribbean manatee’s (Trichechus manatus manatus) closest living relative is the elephant? About twenty years ago biologists discovered that the manatee and the elephant share extremely large, uniquely-shaped ear bones known as the tympano-periotic bones.

Additionally, both species have an uncommonly-shaped heart that is completely spherical and not “heart-shaped.”

Both large herbivores also share a unique dentition commonly called “marching molars.” They are distinctive because they are constantly replaced; new teeth form at the back of the jaw, move forward, wear down and eventually fall out as the animals pluck and chew tough plant material.

Kayaking, Snorkeling, and Biobay Tours 8 different tours Day anD night tours • 363 Days a year kids 11 and under are 1/2 Price Visit our NEW store on the Malecon in esperanza for beach items, water gear, clothing, and gifts!

www.abessnorkeling.com 16 years leading kayaking, snorkeling, and biobay tours in Vieques

(787) 741-2134 13

NAMES, IDENTITY, AND HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE During the time of the U.S. Navy occupation of Vieques the beaches were renamed based on colored flags placed on them for training exercises.

Set in motion by elders and community leaders from Vieques the effort is underway to reclaim the former names of the beaches and restore their cultural significance and longevity.

Internet sites and publications still use the Navy names of beaches and you will hear many islanders still using the English names as well. But while you are here, please paint the mental map in your mind with the original Spanish names.

The English names are listed on the right for your reference to the pull out map on the inside back cover. Thank you for participating in this milestone effort by honoring and using the original Spanish names of the beautiful beaches of Vieques.

Half Acre Lot (23,000sf) Within W Hotel Property on Vieques, PR

HISTORICAL NAMES / FORMER U.S. NAVY NAMES CARACAS / RED BEACH PLAYUELA / GARCIA BEACH PATA PRIETA / SECRET BEACH LA CHIVA / BLUE BEACH LA PLATA / ORCHID BEACH PUNTA ARENAS / GREEN BEACH CAMPAĂ‘A / PURPLE BEACH MATIAS / YELLOW BEACH

Design/Build Availability

This could be your residence.

Asking PRice foR tHe Lot $1,379,000 (finAncing AVAiLABLe)

espacioinc@gmail.com 787-396-5000 14

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Wishing you safe and happy Holidays!

ON THE MENU PG. 16 UNCOMMON LIBATIONS PG. 19 BIOBAY PG. 24 LECHÓN PG. 29 PLAYA GRANDE SUGAR MILL TOUR PG. 31-32 PHONE DIRECTORY PG. 34-35 SEA TO TABLE PG. 37-43 SHOP LOCAL GIFT GUIDE PG. 44-47 SNORKELING DO’S AND DON’TS PG. 48-49 HOLIDAY TRADITIONS PG. 52-53 INSTAGRAM CONTEST PG. 54-55 COMMON BEACHSIDE TREES PG. 57-58 RESTAURANT GUIDE PG. 62 CALENDAR OF EVENTS PG. 64 BEACH GUIDE PG. 66-67

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insider [V I E Q U E S ]

CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES

If you are curious... look inside.

Become a Vieques Insider.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

Have all 4 issues mailed to you at your home. www.viequesinsider.com/subscribe 787.435.3172

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A LA PARILLA..

FRITO.. . . . . . . . .

ASADO. . . . . . . . . .

PERNIL.. . . . . . . .

LECHÓN.. . . . . . . .

CHULÉTA. . . . . . .

POLLO. . . . . . . . . .

CARNE. . . . . . . . .

JAMÓN. . . . . . . . . .

PAVO. . . . . . . . . . .

COCINETA. . . . .

CERDO. . . . . . . . .

PEZ. . . . . . . . . . . .

DORADO. . . . . . . .

LANGOSTA. . . . .

LIBRAS. . . . . . . . .

GRILLED FRIED ROASTED PORK SHOULDER ROAST PIG PORK CHOP CHICKEN MEAT HAM TURKEY BACON PORK FISH MAHI LOBSTER POUNDS

ARROZ BLANCO CON HABICHUELAS / WHITE RICE & BEANS PAPAS FRITAS / FRENCH FRIES

AMARILLOS / FRIED SWEET PLANTAINS TOSTONES / FRIED GREEN PLANTAINS AREPAS / FRIED DOUGH

ARROZ CON GANDULES / RICE WITH PIGEON PEAS PASTELES / PUERTO RICAN TAMALE

Horchata de Ajonjolí (Sesame Seed Drink) 2 cups sesame seeds 2 cups water at room temperature 4 cups warm water 1 cup sugar Soak sesame seeds 4 hours. Strain. Grind the seeds into a fine powder in a food processor or coffee grinder. Add 4 cups of warm water and blend. Strain. Add sugar to sweeten. Chill.

jugo naturales / fresh juice

MAMPOSTEAO

[ mom-post-tee-ow ] Now that you know how to pronounce it, go ahead and order it! A delicious blend of beans, rice, and spices, each restaurant has their own special recipe. Some restaurants turn up the heat by serving it with their homemade hot sauce. Not to be missed!

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Jugos Naturales can be found next to Placita Reyes farmers market at the corner of 200 and 201 on Tues, Wed, and Fridays. Owners Julita & Peyín gather fruits & nuts throughout the year to prepare their candy confections, candied papayas & fresh juices. Their natural, homemade fruit juice choices include tamarind, passion fruit (parcha), Barbados cherry (acerola), sesame seed (horchata), and wild sea grape (uva de playa) collected from the beaches. Julita also sells her homemade sofrito, the heart and soul behind many culinary preparations in Puerto Rico including rice and beans!

Helen Davis broker / owner lic. #11424

Se habla Español

Island Real Estate Pilon Doll House.

2 bedroom, 2½ bath bi-level home in a quiet corner of desirable Pilon. Huge open concept dining room, living room, & kitchen with eat-at counter. Enjoy expansive dramatic views from Puerto Rico to Culebra, and beyond, from the balcony running the full length of the house. Furnished. Titled. $499,000 Two Units, a View and a Pool. Steps to the beach & panoramic views from this two-unit home with a pool in the Bastimiento area of Villa Borinquen. One bedroom, 1 bath unit unit with a vacation rental history downstairs, and a 2 bedroom 1 bath work in progress with a nice balcony upstairs. A vintage Airstream provides an additional bedroom and bathroom. Welcoming brick outdoor living area with a bar, outdoor fire pit, jacuzzi, outdoor shower, half-bath & even a phone booth! Untitled. $399,000

Trade Winds on THE MaLECon in ESPERanza

s o d ev ni

Serving spectacular views with fine food since 1984

B

ien

KKKKK

Lobster Special nightly KKKKK

Relax and Enjoy

With The Best View Of The Caribbean Sea HAPPY HOUR drink specials 5 to 6:30

Rare Atlantic and Caribbean Views.

3 story, 2 unit fixer upper with a fourth-floor observation deck in a large quiet lot in Monte Santo. Amazing, rare views to both sides of the island.

Needs everything but your efforts will be greatly rewarded. Titled. $295,000 A View and a Bonus. Lovely views of Puerto Rico and the sunset. Plenty of room for a big house, a pool, gardening, or even keep horses. Build your dream home on this 1+ acre lot on a quiet dead end street in Villa Borinquen. But in the meantime, enjoy the charming, breezy, well maintained one room cottage with a nice deck to take advantage of the view and gaze at the stars. Titled. $199,000 Motivated Seller! Cinder block and cement shell with outstanding 180-degree views of Puerto Rico and Culebra. Make it your own! All offers considered. Untitled. $99,000

phone 787.741.7001 cell 787.458.7997 fax 787-741-1497 www.islandrealestate.net 575 German Rieckehoff Vieques, PR 00765

GREAT FOOD! GREAT PEOPLE! GREAT PLACE!

Dinner

Fresh Fish and Seafood Vegetarian Entrees Seafood Gala on Wednesdays Paella on Sundays EVERY NIGHT 5:30 - 9:30

Breakfast/ lunch Lobster Benedict

“Mary and The Boys” Salads Galore Huevos Rancheros

K

Fish & Chips

seaside Guest house & Gift shop Great location • Walk to the beach $90 - $115 double a/c • breakfast included Gift shop open every day at 9am

CHECK oUT oUR MEnU anD SPECiaLS aT:

www.tradewindsvieques.com

787.741.8666

aLWaYS CHiLDREn FRiEnDLY tradewindsvieques@gmail.com 19

Fine dining on the malecon, esperanza

Monday - Saturday 5:30 to close reservations@elquenepovieques.com

787.741.1215

Bar & liquor wine Liquor beer Store cool

Open everyday 12 noon to sometime after midnight Abierto desde el mediodia hasta algun momento despues de la media noche todos los dias

the place where the

Bar Bar & & Grill Grill

Enjoy Enjoy Outdoor Outdoor Dining Dining & & Spectacular Spectacular Caribbean Caribbean Sunsets Sunsets at at the the laid laid back back end end of of the the Malecon Malecon

Open Every Day!

locals

.....................

Belly Belly Warming Warming Breakfasts Breakfasts 9am 9am -- 11am 11am

.....................

EL S o m brero Viejo

BESt PricES

MEjOrES PrEciOS

Belly Belly Busting Busting lunches lunches 11am 11am -- 3pm 3pm Enjoy Enjoy Breakfast Breakfast & & Order Order Your Your Beach Beach Lunch Lunch to to Go! Go!

Thursday - Sunday .....................

mouth mouth Watering Watering Dinners Dinners 5pm 5pm -- 9pm 9pm W/Feature W/Feature Menus Menus Including Including BBQ BBQ Night Night

AkA “kuhnS�

Best sandwiches ! on the malecon

200 vinos

hanD hanD DippeD DippeD ice ice cream cream

wines

cigars 20

outstanDing outstanDing ocean ocean VieWs VieWs

Behind the Post Offiice Isabel II Detras del correo en Isabel II

weD. paella night 6pm - 8:30pm Reservations Encouraged

college/pro Football & other sporting events on the belly Up bar Deck

787.741.3336 www.bellybuttonsvieques.com on the malecon, esperanza

wi-fi Visa/MC/DisCoVer

SUGARCANE Sugarcane is called caña de azucar in Spanish (literally “cane of sugar”.) Growing as tall as 18-feet, it is a type of grass that botanists believe originated in New Guinea as early as 6000 BC as a chewing cane. It slowly moved to the Pacific region, Southeast Asia and India.

Around the island there are several local people who crush sugarcane at home using a contraption that looks like a giant old-fashioned laundry mangler. They sell recycled milk jugs of the resulting sweet juice.

Watch for signs that read “Hay guarapo”.

The liquid is translucent light brown and toothachingly sweet.

Distilled sugarcane juice is called cachaca and is sold at El Sombrero Viejo.

LIBATIONS UNCOMMON

Salud! To your Health!

M OJ I TO

Muddled fresh mint leaves, lime, sugar, white rum and club soda.

Super refreshing. For a twist on the usual ol’ mo, head to the Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Botique Resort and order a Moonjito! .......................

CUBQ LIBRE

Traditional rum and coke.

Add a lime! .......................

CHICHAÍTO

1 part Anisette or Anis 1 part white rum (any brand will do) Have one with Lyman right off the plane at the Isla Nena Café at the airport. But watch out, his motto is “one is never enough.” .......................

PA R C H A R I TA

PARCHA [PASSIONFRUIT] A South American twinning vine that bears gorgeous, exotic blossoms followed by perfectly spherical yellowor deep purple- skinned fruit. The orange-yellow pulp is truly perfumelike, delectable and chock full of edible, crunchy seeds.

Here on Vieques the pulp of the fruit and the juice is consumed to alleviate high blood pressure.

The pulp contains fair amounts of vitamin C, carotenes, vitamin A, niacin, riboflavin, phosphorous and potassium. So go ahead, have another parcharita!

This is a passionate twist on a margarita. Add parcha (passionfruit juice) instead of sour mix. Have one at Duffy’s on the malecon. .......................

CAIPIRINHA

1/2 lime, quartered 1 teaspoon white sugar 2 1/2 fluid ounces cachaca (distilled spirit made from sugarcane juice.) 1 cup ice cubes .......................

RUM PUNCH

Juice, juice and more juice-add, you guessed it, rum! Order the TWIPP (TradeWinds Island Passion Punch) served in a Ball canning jar. .......................

MAKE MINE A

Light

pronounced Med-dal-ya Until 2011, this was the only mass-produced beer in Puerto Rico and comes in one version only: Light.

COQUITO

Creamy tropical coconut eggnog made with spices and white rum. .......................

P I Ñ A CO L A DA

Try one at Buen Provecho with fresh squeezed pineapple juice! .......................

BLOODLESS MARY

Hold the tomato juice add the blended greens. Fresh from the garden this has to be the healthiest cocktail available on the island.

At the Tin Box!

JUNTOS GLASS

Find this beautiful etched stemless wine glass for sale at Vieques Gifts, Funky Beehive, W Café, and Buen Provecho. 100% of proceeds goes to Juntos Humane Education program on Vieques. Find out how this program is changing the lives of children and animals on Vieques. www.juntosvieques.org 21

The company with the newest and largest fleet. And great prices!

Maritza’s

We ta ke p ri d e in yo u r ri d e.

Car rental

www.maritzascarrental.com

2

locations

Only car rental company with VQS airport counter Courtesy Van Service Largest, Newest fleet on the island 2015 Jeeps (four door and two door) Locally owned and operated Durangos offered for large groups

Vieques

Gifts

The little

store

with a lot of stuff

Beach SupplieS havianaS local art & craftS viequeS SouvenierS clothing men’S and women’S SwimSuitS and much more!

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787.741.0078 787.741.1666

Vieques airpOrt terMinal

787.741.0700

MamaPlaya Himalaya AsiA AsiA inspired inspired CAribbeAn CAribbeAn FAshion FAshion

DesigNeD iN Vieques

Now 2 locatioNs: Isabel II next to biekes bistro esperanza plaza Guayacán on the Malecon

The best selection of beach wear, gifts & Accessories for everyone’s budget On the malecOn in esperanza 787.741.4197 www.viequesgiftsandflOwers.cOm

Main Office

787.548.1010

Pinchomania!

THE JOYS OF GOYA

The Caribbean Pincho is usually pork, shark, chicken or beef skewered with a really long wooden toothpick, grilled to perfection and then slathered with barbeque sauce. Topped off with a slice of pan de agua (Puerto Rican version of French bread), it is served simply on the stick and wrapped in tin foil. It is the quintessential “finger food”.

YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY, “If it’s Goya it’s got to be good.”

SCOTT D. APPELL

While vacationing on our beautiful Isla Nena (“Little Sister”) island, you will inevitably have to shop for groceries at our local supermarkets (supermercados), stores (tiendas) or carry-outs (colmados). Undoubtedly you will come across the leader of Puerto Rican processed provisions: products by Goya Foods.

Goya was founded in 1936 by Prudencio Unanue Ortiz (1886–1976) from Valle de Mena, Spain who emigrated to Puerto Rico, and met and married Carolina Casal (1890–1984) also a Spanish immigrant. They subsequently moved to New York City. Prudencio believed that his name was too difficult for American customers to pronounce, so he purchased the name of a Moroccan sardine company named “Goya”.

The company was initially set up in the Financial District of Manhattan, importing Spanish foods like olives and olive oil.

Although an international corporation, it’s headquarters are located in Seacaucus, NJ.

www.goya.com

insider tech tip

Goya provides Spanish, Puerto Rican, Caribbean, Mexican, Cuban and Central and South American foods throughout the United States, Puerto Rico, and international markets. Their e-store www.goya.com is amazing at providing regional recipes, nutrition information and online ordering of all their products!

try something new

order

APPETIZER:

APPETIZER:

ENTREE:

ENTREE:

LIONFISH CEVICHE

CONCH

MOFONGO

WHOLE FRIED FISH

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Ceviche is fresh, raw fish cured in citrus juices. The citric acid “denatures” the fish which alters the chemical and physical properties of the fish just as heat does.

Try the lionfish ceviche at El Quenepo when it is available.

Conch can be served many ways but don’t miss the way that Biekes Bistro does it.

Cooked in a rich, creamy curry base and with tostones, deep fried plantain or breadfruit.

Be adventurous!

Mofongo is a mashed mixture of plantains, breadfruit or yuca, garlic and spices. It is fried or baked with your choice of fish, lobster, beef or pork. Each restaurant has their own unique recipe. Your choice!

Head to tail, fried fish are best eaten using your hands and digging right in. The skin fries to a papery thin crisp while the delicate meat inside stays moist. Many restaurants on Vieques are serving locally caught fresh fish.

23

As featured in Islands Magazine 2013 and 2014.

Come walk on water with SurfSUP paddle board tours.

Call 787-232-6906 and book your tour today!

Sunset tours available too!

Prices are $50 per person.

Includes lesson!

Discounts available for Vieques residents and repeat customers.

Un comienzo feliz para tus vacaciones en Vieques.

Servicing Ceiba and Vieques.

Call to reserve now.

St. Thomas

..

Mayaguez San Juan

Virgin Gorda Tortola

Culebra Vieques

Anguilla St. Croix

Ceiba Office 787 885 0505

located at the Ceiba airport ...........................................

Vieques Office 787 741 0284

Nevis

Vuela con la aerolĂ­nea que te ofrece servicio frecuente y continuo a Vieques desde San Juan o St. Croix.

located on rt 200 Vieques With convenient pick up and drop off at the Fajardo ferry dock when renting in Ceiba.

24

Tus alas en el Caribe.

capeair.com

800-CAPE-AIR

Limbers 3 discover the Fun!

The limber, a frozen, fruity treat not unlike the stateside popsicle, was named in honor of Charles A. Lindbergh who flew to Puerto Rico on his 26th birthday on Feb. 4 1928 and, after landing, was offered one. Served out of a plastic cup rather than on a stick, the limber offers endless flavor options made with local island fruit or fruit juice.

It is a quintessentially refreshing frozen indulgence and is sold out of homes in almost every neighborhood of Vieques. Kids stop by vendors on their way home from school and adults scrutinize nearby choices during lunch breaks. But you have to know where to go!

Luckily, you can sample limbers at Chepito’s video store in Barrio Florida (Flo-Ree-da), where the freezer in the back is alway stocked full of a kaleidoscope of colorful frozen cups. Hopefully, choosing your favorite flavor will be the toughest decision of your day.

ways to eat a limber

1. Bite it from the top and squeeze the cup! The relaxed Rasta approach; the “No worries mahn, I’ll get to the bottom of it eventually” approach. This can ultimately lead to disaster, or at least purple, orange or pink teeth.

Risk factor of ending up with a facial of frozen, flavored ice? High.

Personality type - no nonsense, laid back, practical. Note: people with delicate dentition, false teeth or perhaps no teeth at all should avoid this method.

2. Flip the limber in the cup so the small end is at the top and the wider end is wedged into the middle of the cup. (Which is no easy feat on it’s own.)

Even though this eats more like a sno-cone and can seem like an alluring idea at first, ultimately, the melted liquid ends up at the bottom of the cup with the unsecured frozen solids at the top. Risk factor of sloshing ice-cold juice down your front? Very High.

Personality type - inquisitive, optimistic and playful.

Note: first daters and kids should avoid this method.

Or anyone wearing white - especially after Labor Day. Stain remover in the laundry room recommended.

3. Use a spoon. This would be considered the “high maintenance” way as limbers are not served with a spoon.

Only practical if you always carry a spoon with you or live close to your local limber vendor. Risk factor of any major accident? Extremely Low. Personality type - uber practical, happy and in harmony with the world because they live near a limber vendor!

bite

lick

spoon

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country feel in the middle of the village! SWEET cottage style, with two bdrms and a large bath, great room, workable kitchen, enclosed porch and good sized exterior patio. Storage/ laundry room, all on a VERY LARGE lot... Room to expand! PLUS...Recently added is a separate entrance to a large additional guest bedroom and bath! (could be a second unit...) $325,000

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2 acre lots to build your dream home in la llave Starting at $165,000! WOW! https://www.facebook.com/viequesrainbowrealty 25

TOURS BOOK FAST! Call today!

Sail

The island’s only electric boat tour and pedal boats.

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izzy’s

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bar bar & & grill grill

the new hotspot for great food and fun!

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47 foot Sailing Yacht

Private Charters Party of 2 $550.00 Party of 3 $600.00 Party of 4 $650.00 Party of 5 $770.00 Party of 6 $860.00

the best biobay Deal!

Package includes a Caribbean inspired prix fixe menu with appetizer and entrée choices made from fresh local ingredients. Tour begins with an educational overview at the Island Adventures location, transportation to the Bio Bay and the electric boat tour of the bay with experienced and knowledgeable guides.

Tax, gratuity, and beverages not included. reservations reservations

Enjoy a full day of sailing and snorkeling.

Appetizers, lunch, beer, rum punch, soft drinks, water, homemade desserts, and snorkel equipment included.

10am - 5pm • CUSTOM TOURS AVAILABLE Anniversaries, Weddings, Birthdays or any other life celebrations!

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Kayak Trips Bioluminescent Bay Snorkeling Trips & Equipment Rental Info for rates & hours

Alejandro (787) 349-6964 Hobie Catamaran Adventures.

Pristine Offshore Reef Snorkeling.

26

DRNA License & Insurance

STEVE SIMONSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

The Bay of Magic Vieques Bioluminescent Bay, the Brightest in the World MARK MARTIN BRAS

P

uerto Mosquito, Vieques’s bioluminescent bay, is considered by many to be one of the hidden wonders of the world. Not the Hollywood, computer generated graphics type of wonder. No, this is the real deal. This is a natural wonder, the kind you remember forever, the kind that assures you that coming to Vieques was a brilliant idea.

The magic in Puerto Mosquito is created by an unusual wizard called Pyrodinium bahamense (whirling fire of the Bahamas). This single cell microscopic plankton is able to create an eerie bluish light by mixing two chemicals whenever something touches it.

The result is spectacular. A ride on a pedal or electric boat, a canoe or a kayak puts you front row for an underwater light show where manta rays fly through a sea of ghostly stars and fish trail electric-blue wakes in the darkness. Once in a while, a manatee moves gently through the sparkling scene, large yet graceful in its watery environment, helping us understand why ancient sailors believed in mermaids.

How this sparkling jewel of Vieques works is perhaps more impressive than its glow. Puerto Mosquito is a bay of lights partly because it is a bay of life. A majestic mangrove forest, seagrass beds, a coral reef and neighboring lagoons have combined to create and protect one of the most delicate and unique ecosystems on earth. A true testament to biodiversity the Bay is home to a myriad of creatures, functioning as a nursery to house and protect its occupants. This combination of life along with the interaction with the mangrove forest provides the ideal conditions in the water for this bloom of dinoflagellates (whirling tail organism) to thrive. The stability that comes from calm winds and low precipitation help maintain this recipe and the plentiful amount of sunlight provides nourishment for the photosynthetic Pyrodinum bahamense. The single shallow and narrow entrance

helps protect the bay and “trap” these organisms in their perfect habitat.

The bioluminescent bay is traditionally been used by the local fishing community as a safe harbor in storms and as a source for baitfish. In terms of tourism, the bay brings in millions of dollars a year to Vieques as it is one of the main reasons people from all over the globe visit the island.

The brightest bioluminescent bay in the world, Puerto Mosquito is also one of the last examples of a pristine bay. It is featured in the Guiness book of world records and it has traditionally held concentrations that, at it’s highest, range between 75,000 to 132,000 P. bahamense per liter. Bioluminescent bays are extremely delicate and require sustainable tourism practices to survive. The Vieques Conservation & Historical Trust (www.vcht.org), a local non profit, works in collaboration with the agencies and local community to preserve this precious resource.

We have seen the way a visit to the “Caño Hondo” a local name for the Bioluminiscent Bay, can change it’s visitors in just one night. It’s famed rejuvenating powers come from the way it puts you back in touch with nature and helps us remember what is true entertainment, and what is truly important. It is a place that changes its visitors, reconnecting us to nature in a way that makes us feel something inside, makes us love what we experience and makes us always remember it in our minds. We hope it inspires you to protect it and all the natural wonders we have left. No words or pictures can really explain it. It has to be experienced. To do so is to understand how magic and science can exist in the same place.

For more information contact: Department of Natural and Environmental Resources of Puerto Rico www.drna.gobierno.pr.

Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust 27

Guava Mercado Agricola / Farmer’s Market Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday Martes, Miercoles y Viernes 7am -4pm off of 200 on route 201

AmpliA GAmA de FrutAs & VeGetAles lArGest selection oF Fruits & VeGetAbles best prices / mejores precios

arenamar sunbay café

While perusing our local food stores you will no doubt come across unusual, discus-shaped tins or plastic packages of a local Puerto Rican specialty and taste phenomenon.

Guava paste (pasta de guayaba in Spanish) is a very thick, dark pink, sliceable conserve or sweetmeat derived from cooked, strained guava pulp boiled together with granulated sugar. It is traditionally served with crackers and manchego cheese– a smoked, sheep cheese from La Mancha region of Spain. The combination is truly scrumptious and frequently appears on homey Viequense restaurant menus as a dessert.

The fundamental recipe of guava paste is probably of ancient origin. During the late 4th or early 5th century A.D. the Roman gastronome and author, Caelius Apicius, wrote his cookbook, De Re Coquinaria (“On the Subject of Cooking”).

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28

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on my Mind

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It contained a collection of Roman recipes including several for stewing a fruit called quince (an Asian cousin of apples and pears) with honey and a little vinegar. After long cooking, the mixture would gel up upon cooling. Keep in mind, at that time only the Near and Middle East had access to sugar.

Historically, the nuns from the convents of Portugal, Spain and Italy made a paste from quinces. The word “marmelo” is the Portuguese word for quince. Our English word “marmalade” comes from the Portuguese word “marmelada” meaning “quince preparation”, describing the paste or conserve.

Over time, the English “marmalade” began to refer mainly to jams made from citrus fruits, especially oranges.

When religious clergy was introduced into the New World from the 16th-century on, the homesick nuns, craving the familiar foods of their birthplace, began experimenting with the unfamiliar tropical fruit they encountered using their customary cooking techniques. They discovered that guavas worked perfectly for their beloved “marmelada” and and guava paste was borne.

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Convenient online booking!

Vehicles for all price ranges.

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One of the tastiest ways to try guava paste is to visit Arepas Viequense located on Rt. 200 just east of the airport. Look for the sign on the ocean side of the road, pull in and honk your horn.

Pricila Flores and Ernesto Rodriquez make the most delicious arepas de coco, guayaba (guava), and queso (cheese). Occasionally you will find them selling arepas right in front of the ferry terminal.

787.399.4553

Malecón

House

Boutique

www.maleconhouse.com

787-741 0663 Located at the chic Inn - Malecon House Esperanza right on the malecon next to Tradewinds 29

GUIDE TO

Fried PASTELILLOS

Similar to an american “turnover”, these are flour pockets stuffed with beef, chicken, fish, crab, shrimp, lobster, or conch and then deep fried. .............................

SORULLOS DE MAÍZ

Corn meal fritter stuffed with cheese. Like a corn dog without the dog– substitute cheese please! .............................

RELLENO DE PAPA

For the “meat & potatoes” kinda guy. Potato ball stuffed with ground beef and then dropped, like a hot potato, into the deep frier. .............................

RELLENO DE YUCA

See above but substitute potatoes with yuca, a buttery root vegetable. This you have to try! .............................

AREPAS

Open for Dinner Monday through Friday

453 Calle Carlos LeBrum, Isabel Segunda

Flash fried flour patties.

Solo, as a side dish, or stuffed with savory filling! They can also be baked with guava paste and cheese. .............................

TOSTONES

Take a chunk of plaintain, fry it, squish it, then fry it again. Like a thick tasty potato chip, but with plaintains of course!

Served as a side, solo, or with a garlic butter dip. .............................

ALCAPURRIAS

Grated root mixture stuffed with meat and then fried. A starch and protein tamale bomb! .............................

BACALAITOS

A savory, crispy, pancake.

Made with codfish, tomato sauce and sofrito, in a flour batter and then fried in a pan. .............................

AMARILLOS

Slice a yellow, ripe plaintain to 1/4 inch slivers, fry in butter or oil for a sweet, delicious side dish.

30

Lechón Ooh,

it’s the smell of savory, slow-roasting cracklings dripping into the fire, a special seasoning deep inside the crispy skin.

It’s the natural juices of the pig meat cooking itself from within. It’s lechon. If you’ve ever driven past Don Tito’s Lechonera on Christmas Eve, you’ll be intoxicated by the aroma. On that eve up to thirty pigs are slow roasted overnight at the Lechonera, and a delicious cloud of smoky, mouth-watering goodness surrounds the area like a fog.

Up to thirteen pigs can be roasted at the same time in the many ovens, actually large rectangular, cinderblock boxes covered with tin. And it’s not just Christmas Eve that gets them fired up. Every Friday the warm, sizzling-red glow continues all night long to fill Saturday’s orders from the community. After roasting, the pigs are chopped by a machetewielding Papo, weighed, and packaged by his friend and helper Ismael Camacho Felix.

Customers come and go, and Papo’s sons June, 20, and Tingue, 17, are busy organizing deliveries. Papo remembers working for his father as his sons now work with him, indicating how different it was back then. For one, the pigs were raised and slaughtered right there on the property. Don Tito raised the pigs and fed them with the scraps he bought for one cent

a pound from the school cafeterias. Also back then the pigs were roasted over homemade charcoal that he and his boys made by chopping bayaonda wood, burning the wood under layers of grass and dirt for days. The ovens were converted to gas eleven years ago when the wood for charcoal became scarce and new burning restrictions were enforced.

But some things stay the same. Although the seasoning recipe has been changed slightly over the years, it has been passed down from father to son. It is made in 5 gallon buckets, with fresh ground herbs that Papo grinds into the mix.

During the busy times Papo’s lechonera is bustling with activity as friends come to share in the work, have their say and sample the fare. Six pounds to Mr. Che Belardo, twelve pounds to Papa Fú from Monte Santo, three pounds to Junito Corcino of Villa Borinquen; the handwritten orders are crossed off as they are packaged.

And when all the deliveries are out you can probably find Papo catching up on his sleep in the hammock.

Order lechon by the pound by Wednesday afternoon for pick-up on Saturday morning.

Call Papo at 787.741.2898 or 787.617.2748 to order. Be prepared to speak a little Spanish!

31

Unique Gifts Beach Hats beach cover Ups local art funny cards Jewelry Island clothing Home Décor

Beehive

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The store with your style!

Isabel II • look for More Info on facebook • 787.741.3192

Flores Florista

Experts at planning, organizing and orchestrating weddings and events to match your vision and dreams.

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Toda La Casa Home Decor

Flowers and custom bouquets for every occasion.

Household items, dishes, kitchenware, lamps, and much, much more!

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The A Unique Caribbean Inn v 1 5 s t u d i o a pa r t m e n t s a n d s u i t e s v Equipped kitchenettes, Pool overlooking the east coast of Puerto Rico Friendly bilingual staff, Rate includes continental breakfast on canopied garden patio, Beach necessities provided free of charge, TV, AC, WiFi

Best value on Vieques! crowsnestvqs@gmail.com Facebook: The Crow’s Nest

32

787.741.0033

www.crowsnestvieques.com

VIEQUES’ PLAYA GRANDE SUGAR MILL A sweet, historic tour TO M O’G R A DY

You know the question everyone asks when considering skydiving - why would I jump out of a perfectly good plane thousands of feet in the air? A similar thought crossed my mind the other day as I prepared to take a Sugar Mill tour on Vieques. Why would I walk around fully clothed in a hot jungle and dark tunnels when I could be frolicking in a crystal ocean and reclining on a gorgeous beach? Well, I haven’t jumped out of a plane yet but I did do the tour and I suspect the answer is the same.

Because it’s freakin’ awesome!

The Playa Grande Sugar Mill Tour is an amazing journey into the past, beautifully staged by the remnants and ruins of a working mill and presented by extremely knowledgeable and equally enthusiastic guides. This is no stay in line, don’t touch anything museum tour. This is a real, vines-in-your face, don’t lose your guide immersion into a once vibrant Vieques industry/

world, a world with as many heartbreaking social ramifications as economic and historic.

The history offered on the tour is as dazzling and eye-opening as the physical ruins, placing little who ever heard of it Vieques in the context of a global economy, way before we even talked about global economies. The historical context reaches as far back as the 16th century and blazes 33

Hey, did something just grab my leg? Nah. Interestingly, a big part of the fun of this tour is what it causes you to imagine. Things you can’t see are as key to the experience as things you can. Bob, another one of the guides, motions to the space around the ruins, explaining that a barrio, a neighborhood, once sat nearby this center of employment.

I peer into the thick woods, conjuring up the image of modest workers’ accommodations, huddled together in stark contrast to the now-decomposed mansions of wealthy owners that lined the access road. I can hear the roar of trucks and released steam of trains as the mill cranks up in full production. I sniff the pun-

34

BOB GEVINSKI

gent aroma of burning bagaase, the fiber of the cane, mixed with the sweet smell of cane juice cooking, and the air is filled with a new bouquet. And sadly, I see the field workers returning at sunset, tired and bent from a long day of cutting; indentured servants toiling to fill the larders of Europe’s wealthy, and their own bellies. I close my eyes to imagine the grand scale of it all but I fail, reopening them to a land peppered with crumbling structures spread across a time and space I’m ill-equipped to measure. All I see are the remaining monoliths of stone, brick and iron, scattered in the jungle as a testament to the impermanence of all things, man and nature.

But hey, deep thoughts aside, we’re all having fun because we’ve traveled to a little island in the Caribbean and ended up in another world. How good is that?

Whether you’re a history buff or a wanna-be Indiana Jones, you’ll find yourself happily tripping through times and spaces that will stay in your memory like dog-eared photos in an album.

On my tour, half of the group was comprised of island residents and they were as wowed as the tourists.

(Note to other residents – get the heck out there.)

And every trip is different because Anthony Civitello, Robert Marino and Bob Gevinski each provide a unique experience. A little extra history here, an extra dash of adventure there, plenty of humor and entertainment everywhere. All will give you a terrific experience and all will get you back where you started, not something guaranteed if you don’t have a guide. Anthony, a pioneer in the development of the tour (and a fan of the Lost Ark) has spent a lot of personal time walking the site and surrounding grounds, stumbling around in search of more pieces of the puzzle. Bob, who sometimes accompanies Anthony on recon trips, says they usually take GPS with them so they don’t get lost. Like I said, no trail markers, few trails. Trust me, you want one of these guys with you. Plus, let’s face it, they bring all that amazing history with them.

Alright, on to my next adventure question.

Can I jump out of a plane in a bathing suit?

BOB GEVINSKI

into the 20th like a PBS special that makes you go, wow, I never knew that. Along the historical way you’ll run into an impressive cast of characters including Queen Isabella of Spain, Emperor Napoleon of France, several Kings and Ministers of England, the first Viequense Governor - Don Teofilo Le Guillou (a Frenchman hired by Spain to chill Vieques out), an Errol Flynn swashbuckler named Cofresi, four American Naval Commodores and some island sugar Dons (Gustavo and Benitez). How’s that for a bucket of popcorn blockbuster at the multiplex! And you thought you were going on a mindless, pleasureindulgent vacation.

Physically, the really fun part of the tour begins as we stand at the first of many stone and hand-made brick walls that peek from behind snaking green tendrils and thick red-brown branches. My seventeen fellow explorers and I move closer to hear our guide, Robert, drop a breadcrumb trail of sound bites throughout the tour that constantly informs our visual experience. I quickly learn that sticking close to the guide is not only informative but necessary as there are no trail markings and very few trails. Mother Nature rules here, as always, and in the seventy-plus years since the last creak of a grinding wheel She has reclaimed what has not been maintained.

In this graveyard of a bygone enterprise the jungle dominates.

But in, below and around it are constant glimpses of what once was. Clues to the past push up through the earth like spectral visions crying to be remembered; a dirt-filled reservoir pleads for island rain; a dry stone sluice arrives sadly at the ghost of a grinding wheel; soundless brick-arched tunnels zig-zag hopelessly beneath the jungle floor; the vanquished skeletons of iron boilers and engines lay rusting where they fell.

Tours are sponsored by the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. You can contact them for upcoming tours at (EMAIL ADDRESS) or 787-741-8850, or stop by their museum in Esperanza on the Malecon.

AguAcate presents

Sunday nightS

Oceanfront dining at Hector’s by the Sea

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and

beginning november 16th.

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eq

examples from our menu:

s Isl

Mediterranean & Middle Eastern Cooking Travel uid e to G

Fresh Sardines wrapped in grape leaves, grilled; w/ a parsley, lemon, & walnut sauce $9-

Vi

Middle Eastern Chopped Salad w/ olives, oranges, & feta $8Orecchiette with potato, arugula, & ricotta salata $9 / $17Kofte (lamb meatballs) w/ warm eggplant salad & homemade Turkish bread $21Grilled Caribbean Lobster Picnic -mkt Sunset Happy Hour w/ complimentary bar snacks 5-6:30

On the water, behind and to the right of Hacienda Tamarindo!

www.vieques.travel Vieques travel information guide, events & news.

thurSday nightS

A sumptuous 6 course prix fixe in a lovely hilltop Hix designed villa w/ 360 ocean views. $65Limited seating, reservations only, see this week’s menu on Facebook:

AguAcate

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Vieques

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Tours and Transportation vqstours@gmail.com 787.397.2048

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35

insider V IEQUES

P H O N E D I R EC TO RY

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ACCOMMODATIONS

BIO BAY / NIGHT TOURS

LOCKSMITHS

Ababor Suites 787-435-2841 Acacia Guesthouse 787-741-1059 Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Bravo Beach Hotel (BBH) 787-741-1128 Casa de Amistad 787-741-3758 Casa de Kathy 787-565-2717 Casa La Lanchita 787-741-8449 Crow’s Nest 787-741-0033 El Blok 787-741-6020 Flamboyan Guesthouse 340-642-5883

787-741-9090 Hacienda Tamarindo 787-362-3324

787-741-8525 Hectors by the Sea 787-741-1178 Hix Island House 787-741-2302 La Finca Caribe 787-741-0495 Lazy Hostel 787-741-5555 Malecon House 787-741-0663 Sea Gate Hotel 787-741-4661 Hilltop Retreat Apartment 917-553-6595 Trade Winds 787-741-8666 Vieques Tropical Guest House 787-741-2449 Villa Coral 787-741-1967 W Vieques 787-741-4100 ..................................

VACATION RENTAL HOUSES Bravos Beach Cottages 231-633-4076 Casa Angular 410-363-3284 Casa Colores 413-548-8053 Cookies Paradise 305-975-2046 El Cerro 850-598-1415 Villa Uno 202-387-9812

Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay BlackBeard’s Island Adventures JAK Water Sports Taino Aqua Adventures

Marc Weems Locksmith

AIR CONDITIONING SERVICE Dynamic Air Conditioning

787-364-1800 787-741-8811 787-741-7900 800-352-0714 787-741-1577 787-791-7090 877-772-1005 787-741-8331

231-352-6213 787-741-1717 787-741-3078 787-433-0015 787-988-9319 787-741-1343 787-741-8850

BABYSITTING Mary Britton Sandra Mudge

Avis Ceiba 787-885-0505 / VQS 787-741-0284 Chepito’s 787-649-2542 Enterprise (Puerto Rico) 787-860-6868 M-F

787-801-3722 Sat-Sun Island Car Rental 787-741-8822 Island Jeep Rental 787-741-3318 Maritza’s 787-741-0078 / airport 0700 Vieques Car Rental 787-741-1037

CATERERS Aguacate Catering Arenamar Beverly Davenport-Chef Buen Provecho Coqui Fire Don Tito’s Lechon Green Man Baked Goods Chef Eva Bolívar Your Personal Chef (Waldo)

787-615-2320 787-239-7771 215-313-1241 787-529-7316 787-741-0401 787-741-2898 787-435-6822 787-402-0357 787487-4244

413-563-0012 802-238-5089

Away Spa (W) 787-741-7021 Blue Hill Hand & Foot Reflexology and Massage 787-908-2552 Blue Hoku (Maureen) 787-556-5025 Susie Higgins Walker, 207.869.0925 Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman 787-435-1313

MEDICAL SERVICES / PHARMACIES ASSMCA Behavioral Health Care Centro Quiropráctico Consejería Psicológica Dra- Daphne Torres (Dentista) Farmacia San Antonio Dr- Jose Figueroa Dra- Fanny Garraton (dentist) Dentist Juan R- Gonzalez Dr- Luis Rivera

MUSEUMS

Forte Conde Mirasol Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust

PADDLEBOARDING

Architecto, Stanley Hutchinson 787-556-5537 EDK Design Services 787-435-3548 M&M of Vieques 787-741-2577 Navarro Construction 787-741-2577 Paul Lutton, Arquitecto 787-477-7684 Vieques Locksmith 787-564-5120

JAK Water Sports SUP StandUp Paddle Vieques Paddleboarding

787-741-4767 888-440-8787 787-741-0414 787-547-9467 787-741-1916 787-741-8397 787-741-2222 787-741-8765 787-318-7376 787-741-0738 787-741-1717 787-741-8850 787-644-7112 787-232-6906 787-366.5202

PET CARE & SERVICES Pampered Pets Vieques Humane Society

787-741-0639 787-741-0209

EcoMan Dan 787-550-6700 Dynamic Air Conditioning 787-364-1800 High Quality Electrical Contractor787-446-6063

PHOTOGRAPHY

EXTERMINATORS

PUBLICOS/TAXIS/TOURS

Professional Exterminating

787-449-6950

FISHING CHARTERS 787-981-4109

FITNESS Sweat Fitness W

787-741-4100

FLOWERS Flores

202-276-8601

HORSEBACK RIDING Esperanza Riding Sea Gate Hotel Taxi Horses

787-435-0073 787-741-4661 787-206-0122 787-741-2416

LANDSCAPING Anchor Landscaping Ean Egas Tree Removal Mow Joe

Jennifer Teeter River Photography

787-469-3337 787-556-9030

Alba Melendez 787-206-0456 Alejito Bermúdez 939-261-7857 Ana Robles 787-514-9597 Angie Chauffeur 787-455-4596 Carlos & Denisse 787-447-8697 Edna Robles 787-630-4673 Henry 787-649-3838 Jose Morales 787-435-4277 Josue 787-249-6165 Juanito 787-645-2329 Julio 787-579-1141 Letty Perez/Kiany Tours 787.556.6003 Luis Gonzalez 787-435-3805 Sharron 787-944-4569 Vieques Taxi 787-741-TAXI 8294 Vieques Tours & Transportation 787-397-2048

PUBLICATIONS / MARKETING

LIQUOR STORE El Sombrero Viejo (Liquor)

36

787-564-5120

MASSAGE

CONSTRUCTION

Fin Time Adventures

ART GALLERIES Ellie Harold Fuerte Conde Mirasol Gallery Galleon ReciclArte Sandra Reyes Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust

CAR RENTAL

ELECTRICIANS

AIRLINES Air Flamenco Air Sunshine Cape Air Isla Nena M&N Aviation Seaborne Airlines Vieques Air Link

787-741-2134 787-741-1892 787-741-0720 787-644-7112 787-349-6964

787-479-5801 518-506-1374 207-651-1213

Imprenta Adonai Vieques Insider Magazine Vieques.Travel

787-741-2856 787.435.3172 212-462-2900

REAL ESTATE Bravos Boyz Island Real Estate Rainbow Realty Sun Realty Vieques Vieques Fine Properties Vieques Realty & Rentals

S UR F I N G 787-741-1463 787-741-7001 787-741-4312 787-467-5368 787-741-3298 787-741-0330

RESTAURANTS & BARS Aguacate Arenamar Café Awesome Yogurt & Fruits Belly Buttons Buen Provecho Biekes Bistro Bilí Carambola Chicken King & Ice Cream Conuco Coquí Fire Duffy’s Esperanza El Sombrero Viejo El Quenepo Izzy’s Bar & Grill José Enrique @ El Blok La Zafra Lazy Jacks Mamasonga Mar Azul Mr Sushi Next Course Noche Pescaderia/Fish Market Roys Internet Café Smokey’s BBQ & Grill Smoothie Girlz Sorcé W Taverna Tin Box Trade Winds W Café

787-615-2320 787-239-7771 787-517-1061 787-741-3336 787-529-7316 787-741-6381 787-741-1382 787-741-3318 787-741-5464 787-741-2500 787-741-0401 787-741-7600 787-741-2416 787-741-1215 787-741-0720 787-741-6020 787-644-9325 787-741-1447 787-741-0103 787-741-3400 787-741-2828 787-741-1028 787-741-7700 787-349-8660 787-741-0685 787-349-8839 340-514-0124 787-741-7022 787-438-1100 787-741-7700 787-741-8666 787-741-7056

Playa Voltios Vieques Surf School

TOWING Freddie

787-741-7873 787.692.8655 787-608-9914

TRANSPORT Island Delivery (Aurelio)

Caballos Bieke, Inc. 434-984-5491

202-276-8601 787-741-8000

Corefi 787-741-2076 787-433-0413 www.viequesinneed.org

787-556-5025 787-435-6850 787-435-7510

Incubadora, 787-206-0602, incubadora.bieke@cprdv.org,

787-649-2542

Juntos 787-556-9030, www.juntosvieques.org

YOGA Blu Hoku Jennifer @ Hix MariAngeles

VIDEO RENTAL Chepitos Video

MUNICIPAL / GOV. AGENCIES / PUBLIC SERVICE Banco Popular City Hall/Alcaldía Sun Bay US Fish and Wildlife Office Recycling Office Post Office Banco Popular

787-741-7117 787-741-5000 787-741-8198 787-741-2138 787.741.5000 787-741-3891 787-741-2071

To add or update your phone number please contact us at 787.435.3172 or kelly@viequesinsider.com

AHOY Vieques 939-332-5778 Caribbean Lady 787-930-5610 / 5611 Fin Time Adventures 787-981-4109 LittleBoat Sailing 787.366.5202 Vieques Classic Charter 787-467-3447 Vieques Island Powercat 787-980-9978

Alcoholics Anon 787-741-0639 Humane Society 787-741-0209 Baby Item Rentals 787-435-2465 Recycling 787-741-5000 x2351 The Property Caretakers 917-831-5096 Vieques Gas 787-741-2551

Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, 787-741-8850, www.vcht.org info@vcht.org,

SHOPPING

Beach Comb’r W Retreat and Spa

787-741-0625 787-741-7021

ReciclArte, 787-433-0015, pcuyar@reciclartepr.org

Vieques Humane Society 703-623-2613 volunteer line 787-741-0209 www.viequeshumanesociety.org

SERVICES

SPA/SALON

Reach For Success 787-243-1352 cpweir@gmail.com,

Vieques Concert Society, 787-413-2450 www.viequesconcertsociety.org,

787-718-7607

787-741-1892 787-741-3192 787-741-0663 787-548-1010 808-280-6223 787-236-7224 787-741-8666 787-741-8850 787-741-7873 787-741-4197 917-573-4491 540-847-4824

Radio Vieques, 90.1 FM 787-206-0602, www.radiovieques.net

Ticatove 787-741-2138 ticatovevieques@yahoo.com,

SCUBA

BlackBeard’s Funky Beehive Malecon House Boutique MamaPlaya Himalaya Sol Creation Toda La Casa Trade Winds Gift Shop VCHT Gift Shop Playa Voltios Vieques Flowers and Gifts Vieques Bath & Botanica Woodstock

Navy League 352-275-7397, nlusgerardo@aol.com

Rotary Club of Vieques, 787-556-9030, RotaryVieques.com,

SAILING / CHARTERS

Isla Nena Scuba

Boys & Girls Clubs of Puerto Rico 787-741-6006 787-402-2244 www.bgcpr.org

787-238-9108

WEDDING PLANNERS MarryMe Vieques Weddings in Vieques

NON-PROFITS / ORGANIZATIONS

EMERGENCY

Ambulance Hospital Emergency Fire Dept Police

787-741-1616 787-741-3282 911 787-741-2111 787-741-2020 37

Vieques Classic Charter viequesclassiccharter.com

Sail on a historical, 1941 Philip Rhodes design, wooden yacht through crystal turquoise water.

787-467-3447

Massage & Yoga

by Maureen Harrison Ph.787.556.5025

35 Years Experience Swedish, Shiatsu, Deep Tissue, Reflexology and more.

Email: mahalaksmi88@gmail.com Massage at your desired location.

Call for Yoga schedule.

Ellie

2

Locations Look for our truck and Happy Flag!

Harold Vieques Oil Landscapes 231-352-6213

www.EllieHarold.com

Friday – Sunday • Isabel Segunda • 4–10pm Saturday – Sunday • Esperanza • 11am-4pm

www.viequesverde.biz paul@viequesverde.biz

787.477.7684 PR License #19884

PauL H. Lutton a R q u i t e c to

p l a n

•

d e s i g n

•

b u i l d

Balancing aesthetics, function, cost, and time, while managing the expectations and logistics of building on Vieques. Know your options. call for a consultation today!

38

SEA TO

TABLE Following Delicacies of the Sea from Fishermen to Fork TOM KIRKBRIGHT

The first hint of light reveals sparkling blue water and pink sky off the shore of Esperanza. Boats bob gently in the soft swells as fishermen in dinghies head to their boats, chattering back and forth. Having rested since early the night before, the fishermen are ready for the work ahead and optimistic about its rewards. The day looks promising. On shore, the chefs of Vieques sleep. They have worked far into the previous evening and won’t rise for a few more hours. When they do they’ll meet with their watermen counterparts, eager to see the catch that will help create their menus. They too, will be optimistic.

The effort of one group begets the effort of the other. And we all win.

39

Yuabu empties a trap full of lionfish.

40

Chelao and Raffie enjoy a gourmet lunch.

Yaburebo Zenòa or Yuabu, a tall man in his thirties, The crew of the Challenger works steadily and in less joins a fiftyish Rafael Ayala or Raffie, a fisherman than ten minutes Yuabu’s first few traps are emptied, fish since childhood. We await our captain, Louis Ventura, placed in proper containers, bait refreshed and the boat better known as Chelao, to pick us up from the pier. comes about to send the traps back down. With each Chelao learned the trade as a young boy from his line the process repeats itself. Chelao marks the number father and grandfather. of traps lifted at the helm A shrewd businessman, and we are steadily moving Chelao’s multiple careers west. The traps become include fisherman, pilot fuller with each set and the and seafood distributor. fish bigger; some huge red He now owns Esperanza’s snapper, grouper, yellowColmado Lydia and grotails and at trap 19, our first cery store Lorimar where Nurse Shark. By trap 24 fresh and frozen fish is we have five Nurse Sharks sold. Chelao pulls his which we release. Now thirty-two foot Challengwe are picking up a few er, a New England style lobsters. The mood on the lobster boat, alongside boat is jovial and the banter the pier and the three steady. We move to the men quickly load bait next buoy line and every and the day’s provisions. trap has eight to twelve Chelao’s father building traps in 1979.

We are headed southlobsters. The lobsters are west, and the first order measured quickly with the of business is to place three cans of Chef Boyardee undersized thrown back immediately. As the last trap is spaghetti in the engine compartment to be hot and raised there is concern in the men’s voices. The trap isn’t ready by lunchtime. Chelao will be checking Yuabu’s brought on board but balanced on the gunwhale. forty lobster traps today and only a couple of his A thick, five-foot-long Moray Eel is thrashing about in own. Yuabu, a fisherman and paramedic, has an electhe trap. Chelao turns the boat into the now four-foot trical problem with his boat. Chelao has offered to seas to control roll, then carefully opens the trap door help out. The fishermen on Vieques have a friendly they’ve positioned over the water. As the eel slides back competition but are an extremely tight community, to his lair, Chelao turns and says, “No problem in the always ready to lend a hand when needed. They all water, big problem on the boat.” The last line of Yuabu’s clearly understand the rigors and dangers of their traps provide a few more lobsters and two beautiful livelihood. red snappers, and it’s time for lunch. The engine hatch A half mile off the southern shore Chelao’s boat is opened, the spaghetti retrieved, and a well deserved slows at Yuabu’s buoy 1, about fifteen meters off break ensues with pasta swinging on the end of forks to starboard. No GPS, no electronics, just Piloting add emphasis to the conversation and laughter.

Navigation. Picking two or three landmarks on shore, The gourmet pasta lunch over and, before heading triangulating and estimating position, the watermen home, we’re off to check two of Chelao’s traps. He likes have an impressive mental map of where each trap to put his traps in deeper water so we head about a line is set. Each fisherman has his own buoys - differmile offshore. Once again, spot-on navigation brings ent sizes, shapes or colors. Traps are placed in a line, the boat alongside his first trap. Chelao eats fish maybe thirty to one hundred meters apart. Lines of every day and likes them fresh, so when the first trap four to ten traps are common with the first trap’s buoy comes up loaded with big chapín, yellowtail, a capitan marked with a splash of green; the last, red. Raffie fish and a few large Sama (Mutton Snapper), he is gaffs the first buoy and Yuabu places it over the winch satisfied. Back at the pier the trio unloads their catch arm. Chelao grabs the line, places it on the winch and and cleans the boat. Yuabo is thrilled, his catch much the trap rises from the ocean. The traps are heavy, a better than anticipated. He turns to Chelao and offers three man job even with a winch. The first pot has thanks. Chelao smiles and gives Yuabu a nod. Yuabu about ten fish.; a yellowtail snapper, Poctin Fish, a few and Raffie are off to the restaurants to sell their catch.

Red Parrott, some Chapín. As soon as the first trap Chelao is on his way home to see his wife, Carmen, is empty, the second is on the way up. Raffie sepacheck on his store and maybe take a stroll to visit his rates the fish into different buckets while Yuabu and sons Ricky, Omar and Edsel who run his grocery store Chelao lift the next trap. Their work together is an around the corner. He’ll be checking his traps again at exercise in symmetry. first light tomorrow.

41

Georgie and Irainy serve lobster arepas.

Payday at the Pescaderia.

Chef Bayrex plates tostones alongside fresh lobster.

42

On the north shore of Vieques, in the port of Isabella Segunda, Georgie Gabino meets his uncle, Cristobal Medina, at the dock. Cristobal readies the boat while Georgie slips into his wet suit and checks his equipment. Their destination is a reef a few miles out; their catch, lobster. Georgie is a hunter who loves the chase. He prefers to dive for his quarry, a method taught to him by his father. They make their way out of the harbor toward deep water past the statue of the Virgin del Carmen, the local guardian of fishermen. The seas are light, the sun now revealing the deep blue of the water as the main island and Culebra come into focus.

About four miles out from Isabel Georgie and Cristobal approach their GPS coordinates. Cristobal slows the boat and Georgie grabs his mesh lobster bag line, attaching one end to him and the other to a surface marker buoy. The depth is eighty feet.

Georgie knows he has twenty-five minutes on bottom before he must start his assent. Visibility is good and Georgie begins his stalk. His only fishing apparatus is a pair of gloves and a three foot stainless steel lasso or noose. Two minutes into the dive Georgie is above an underwater reef, adjusting his BC vest and floating over a likely lobster hole. He spots a nice three pounder, makes the grab, extracts him from the hole and places him in the mesh bag.

A twenty foot swim along the reef and…another one, about a pound and a half. Georgie is moving fast. The reef is loaded but he knows to keep his heart rate down to conserve air. On the surface Cristobal is watching the buoy and the air bubbles knowing he has to keep the boat above Georgie. It’s a ballet where the dancers can’t see or touch each other so precision is essential. No missteps allowed. Georgie is fifteen minutes into his dive and on the way up. His bag full, he will unload his catch and wait, his surface interval shorter than expected. The second dive is as productive as the first.

Georgie is taking his time; last dive, no need to hurry. He spends twenty-five more minutes at seventy feet and his bag is full so he heads to the surface.

A smooth ride back to the dock and Cristobal and Georgie know their work is almost done. But the day on the water is not over for Georgie. He will soon clock in for his eight hour shift as ferry captain, his full-time job for the last 12 years. He had a good morning, two full tubs of lobster. At the Pescaderia, the fish market at the north side pier, fishermen are gathered at the dock checking each other’s catches, laughing and reminiscing about

their day. Their bond is strong. They may fish alone but they share the ocean and her perils. They are all family on the water.

Georgie will sell most of his catch to the Pescaderia which will sell them to restaurants and tourists. But some of his catch will go to his wife, Irainy, who will be waiting with a big lobster pot on the boil. She prepares the savory lobster and arepas (fried flatbread) to sell at their kiosk, ”Delicias del Mar”, located across from the ferry dock next to the bridge. From the water to the pot to your arepa…it doesn’t get any fresher than that.

The sun is already hot as chefs on both sides of the island roll their tired legs and sore backs out of bed, a cup of coffee rousing their creative minds to the first challenge of the day. The Menu. Meats and poultry are clearer in their thoughts, but seafood? What will the watermen bring them today? They are particular about their fish and want them fresh.

As the lobster fisherman are leaving the dock, Chef Bayrex Silva arrives. He’s here for lobster. His favorite dish to prepare is mofongo but this morning one of his local growers has brought over just-picked greens. The result, arugula salad with grilled lobster in a choice of garlic wine sauce or Criolla sauce, and tostones. Magnificent! He takes two dozen lobsters and heads back across the island to get ready for the busy night ahead. Bayrex is the executive chef at “Carambola”, the restaurant at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort. This is his first executive chef position, a goal of his since childhood.

Born on the main island, Bayrex and his family have lived on Vieques nearly his whole life. Schooled in the culinary arts at the International School of Tourism and Hospitality in Carolina he headed off to the states to garner experience in different cooking styles and techniques. After a stint as a pastry chef and sous chef he became homesick. Returning toVieques, he went to work at the Blue, happy to be home again. You won’t find Bayrex resting on his accomplishments. On his days off he spends his time in restaurants either here or on the big island, talking to and learning from other chefs. He is committed to improving his skills.

Tools of the trade; a noose and ruler.

43

Chef David and Chelao negotiate.

Chef Bayrex’s grilled lobster with tostones and arugula salad.

44

Chef David’s sesame seared fillet of Sama with scallion butter over sauteed vegetables and yellow rice.

David Donovan, executive chef at Tradewinds Restaurant in Esperanza, smiles as Chelao, just off his boat, presents him with large Sama. Tonight’s menu will include a sesame seared fillet of Sama topped with ginger scallion butter over stir fried vegetables and yellow rice. David has been in the industry for thirty-three years and at Tradewinds for the last sixteen. Born in Lockport, New York he was introduced to fine dining on a field trip to Toronto with his highschool French class. His interest in the tasting and preparation of food accelerated during his fouryear stint in the Navy cruising the Mediterranean.

After culinary school at Niagara Community College he headed to Boston, then Cape Cod where he accumulated a wealth of experience cooking seafood. A cold autumn day froze his hands to the handlebars of his bike. That was the moment in 1991 that changed the course of his life. He has been an integral part of the Vieques community ever since.

These are just two examples of the many talented chefs and cooks that staff the fantastic restaurants of Vieques. Whether a chef at a major resort hotel, food

insider tip

truck on the side of the road, or fine dining restaurant, they share a symbiotic relationship with the watermen of Vieques. Every day, face to face interaction takes place between them, doing business together in the language of seafood. And what starts with two groups of professionals merging their talents and passions results in heavenly results for the rest of us. Think about it the next time you’re dining. Hey, think about it the next time you’re sitting on a beautiful beach.

Dinner is out there. Chances are that delectable fish you’re enjoying was swimming a few hours earlier in the incredible water view you are admiring. The guy eating in the corner of the restaurant may have caught your dorado. The woman at the next table might be the Chef who prepares your lobster next week. Your conch fritters are on their way from the ocean floor as you sleep. Seafood mofongo? Any minute now.

On a small island like Vieques nothing is very far away, including your food. A few miles out and a hundred feet down. From the catchers to the cookers, from the sea to the boat to the kitchen to your table.

Small distances with huge results. Buen Provecho!

If you are fortunate enough to purchase live lobster-bring home-do not put in fresh waterwrap them in damp newspaper or a damp hand towel and place in fridge. They should last for about 48 hours. Lobster hate to be dry and start to decompose as soon as they die.

Safety Tips

NEVER leave valuables unattended.

DON’T take valuables to the beach.

DON’T lock your car at the beach.

Leave it open with nothing in it.

DON’T leave a cell phone or iPad charging next to an open window.

Never leave house keys next to a window.

USE COMMON SENSE when walking around at night.

Never walk on the beaches alone after dark.

Come ride or stay with us!

787-741-4661 or find us on facebook!

origin a

he

Sunset or daytime rides on the beach with memorable views to St.Thomas and Culebra.

lv

ieque s

any • t mp

ALWAYS lock the doors where you are staying.

Period. First floor, second floor, every door.

& HORSEBACK RIDING

ding co ri

Many visitors think that Vieques is a sleepy, laid back island where you can sleep in your hammock on the beach without a care in the world. For the most part, this is true. But petty theft is everywhere and your vacation can end badly without some precaution and common sense. Follow some safety tips and always be aware of your surroundings and belongings.

Riding with SeaGate helps support our animal and horse rescue efforts.

www.seagatehotel.com

Private & small groups by appointment only.

SeaGate Hotel offers very comfortable lodging at an affordable price!

A quiet retreat for weddings, workshops, family reunions, romantic getaways & other eco travelers...

hidden in the hills since 1996... lafinca.com

787.741.0495

manager@lafinca.com 45

buy local gift guide

These are just a few of Vieques artist and artisans, we couldn’t possibly show them all. Walk along the malecon, peruse the kiosks, explore the stores, galleries and museums and you will discover Vieques talent everywhere you look!

Vieques Bath & Botanica, a product line handcrafted in small batches, is made right here on Vieques. Liz Koogle and Larissa Sarmiento combined their deep connection to the Caribbean and unique talents to craft a body line using local ingredients; fresh fruits, herbs, and essential oils. Every product is an interpretation the island’s unique ambiance, whether that means using Puerto Rican Medalla beer and local honey in the shampoo or mimicking the bioluminescent bay in a swirling clear, yet dark and sparkling soap.

After intensive research and lots of experimentation, slowly recipes became refined and Vieques Bath & Botanica was born.

BUY COQUÍ FIR E ONLINE AT WWW.COQUIFIR E .COM OR LOOK FOR IT IN STOR ES ALL OVER VIEQUES 787-74 1-04 01

Ha nd ma de

You can’t leave Vieques without a bottle of Jimmy’s Coqui Fire hot sauce.

Celebrating it’s 13th year, Coqui fire offers a twist on your usual condiment offering flavors like Pina Colada Mustard, Papaya Lime, and for the really brave, the Ultimate Dragon Hot Sauce with a sweat factor of 15.

HAND MAD E CUSTOM TILES

BY MAUR EEN HAR R ISON @ THE EMPOR IUM V I EQ U E S B AT H & B OTA N I CA @ F U N KY B E E HI V E 917 -573-449 1

KI LLE R B E E HO N E Y LA S I E M B RA FA RM 787 -948 -9939

A $5 donation will get you one of these fridge magnets and also the peace of mind that you helped an animal in need over the holidays. Find them at Funky Beehive!

46

Look for Killer Bee Honey, at the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, VQS Flowers & Gifts, the Green Store, Buen Provecho, Funky Beehive, and VQS Emporium.

WEEK ENDS ON THE MALECON AND VIEQUES HISTOR ICAL AND CONSERVATION TRUST

Taino artisan Daniel Silva is not just creating art he is reviving Taino history. His pottery is created with the difficult technique that the Taino indians used. His carved gourds are all carved freehand, the designs inspired by Taino art.

Daniel is a true craftsman, artist and keeper of the Taino legacy.

A RT I ST L U L U AT KI N 787 741 782 8 GA L L E RY GA L L EO N

ARTISTS JUAN SILVA A ND MICHELLE LANOO BR ING YOU D’ BIEK É D ESIG NS ON THE MALECON TUES, WED, AND FR I 939-2 59-3 5 85

G R EENLEAF POTTERY SAR AH COOK @ SID D HIA HUTCHINSON GALLERY 787-74 1-2 993

Potter and artist Sara Cook uses leaves, herbs and flowers to create her organic pottery designs. The leaves are pressed into the surface of the clay and burnt out during firing or sometimes used as the actual mold for the platter or plate. The result is naturally amazing!

S A N D R A M U DGE S A I LB OAT S @ FU N KY B E E HI V E

ELLIE HAROLD VIEQUES OIL LANDSCAPES 231-352-6213 @ SIDDHIA HUTCHINSON GALLERY

ARTIST SAND R A R EY ES GALLERY GALLEON 787-988-93 19

HAND PR INTED CUSTOM VIEQUES TEES BY JAD E R OBERTSON @ FUNKY BEEHIVE , EL BLOK , AND SOL CR EATIONS 64 6-3 3 4 -5590 LO CA L C O LO R SEAG LAS S JEWELRY @ F U N KY BEEHIVE

EDITOR’S PICK. FIND WHAT SPEAKS TO YOU. This wood figure carved by Puerto Rican artist, Adrian Rodriguez, called to me from the shelves of Vieques Gifts for over a year until I finally broke down and brought him home. With a little research I found out it is the Fourth King, King Mazzel, who, on his way to see the newborn Jesus gave away his gifts for the baby to spare the lives of others. Now he sits on my computer desk among post-its, camera equipment, and coffee cups and gives me strength and great comfort when I look at him, reminding me that the journey is ever changing, and to appreciate those along the way.

shop eat i explore

Save money with the Trust's value card with discounts at many local businesses. For sale at the Vieques Historical and Conservation Trust. i

47

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Stay in touch and see what’s happening on Vieques. $55/yr + $15 shipping & handling

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DO YOU HAVE GREAT PHOTOS OF VIEQUES? FUN. WA C K Y. W E T. S I L LY. S E X Y. S P O N TA N E O U S .

E D U C AT I O N A L .

WHIMSICAL. BE AUTIFUL .

MEANINGFUL. C O O L . C R E AT I V E .

COLORFUL.

SHARE YOUR SHOTS! PUBLISH THEM IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF VIEQUES INSIDER WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM

787.435.3172 48

W

hen meeting the jewelry artist Sarah Carbia you would discover that first, she is a mother, second, she is a surfer, and third, she is a metalsmith.

She also happens to be our cover model with her husband Orland.

Shy and soft natured Sarah gets all of her inspiration from her first two passions in life, her daughter and the ocean, and weaves them so delicately into her third passion... jewelry design.

Her company, Kala Handmade with Love, is named for her four-year old girl Kala, who also surfs. So comfortable and naturally drawn to the ocean you almost expect them both to suddenly sport tails and go playfully flipping back through the waves. A mother and daughter mermaid team.

While on land, Sarah crafts custom keepsakes in her studio just feet away from the best surfing beach on Vieques. Inspired by the setting, she pounds

F I N D I T AT: F U N K Y B E E H I V E , S O L C R E AT I O N W , V I E Q U E S H I S T O R I C A L A N D C O N S E R VAT I O N T R U S T, WWW.KALAHANDMADEWITHLOVE.COM, A N D I N S TA G R A M K A L A _ H A N D M A D E W I T H L O V E

out gold wave necklaces, brass starfish rings, silver mermaids with turquois tails and undulating wave rings for every finger.

Incorporating pearls, semi-precious stones, glass, shells and crystals Kala’s designs have an elegant yet innocent simplicity about them, reminding us that what we put on our body should always mirror who we are.

ARt

GALLERY GALLEON

SCENE

SANDRA REYES, LOCAL SELF TAUGHT ARTIST, GOES SOLO with an eclectic show of her talents. Caribbean style oil paintings, sea inspired ocean glassworks made of 100% recycled bottles repurposed from beach & trash, paintings on recycled corrugated tins, mosaics from colorful found tiles, and sculptures. Her solo show at Gallery Galleon opens Friday, November 28th at 5:30PM. In the next issue of Vieques Insider! Look for an exploration of Sandra’s latest mural painted in front of La Lanchita guesthouse on the north shore.

The vibrant mural is, in itself, not only a work of art, but a look into Vieques past and present.

Don’t miss the opening ceremony to unveil the mural. (See ad at bottom of page.)

AT THE CLOSE OF THE YEAR OF THE HORSE, Gallery Galleon will host

a mixed media show to celebrate the beloved animals on the island. Proceeds will be donated to Juntos, an organization for humane education, and Caballos de Vieques for equine vet care, food, medicine and supplies. The owner, Marion Fischer, will match all sales up to $10,000. The show will feature artists Rob Brooks, LuLu Atkin, Richie Kessler, Karen Edelstein, Valerie Twomey, Sandra Reyes, Carla Golembe, Rosalia Frankel, Barrie Fisher, Lyndsey Molyneux and Sarah Holl. Please come support these amazing artists to help island horses, a passion of Marion’s and many of us who live, work & visit here.

HORSES opens Friday, January 30th, 5:30 PM.

FUERTE CONDE MIRASOL JUAN SILVA’S SHOW “PUERTORRO”, a local way of referring to

Puerto Rico, is a compilation of paintings that showcase Puerto Rico and Vieques. Landscapes, a few contemporary graphic paintings, folklore, traditions, cultural heritage, traditional instruments, musical themes and Bomba dancers. The show opens Friday, December 12th at the Fort, 7 PM.

SIDDHIA HUTCHINSON FINE ART GALLERY BERNARDO MEDINA’S WORK SEEMS TO BE SURFACING ALL AROUND THE WORLD these days, from fashion and

photography in Paris and galleries in Miami, to site specific works in Barcelona. His development as an artist has been a long process of study and experimentation in medium, style and technique. Ten years ago this experimentation led him to create pieces with mixed media. He instantly recognized that he had found his calling. Bernardo grew up surrounded by the beauty, humbleness and serenity in the small town of Hatillo, Puerto Rico. One of his latest collections is based on traditional sweets from his youth. Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery is very excited to be presenting new works by one of Puerto Rico’s most trend-setting artists. Don’t miss the opening reception Thursday, January 22nd at 6PM.

You are invited to aTribute S U N D AY,

to VIEQUES

by Sandra Reyes

AT CASA LA LANCHITA D E C E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 4 • Ceremony & Ribbon cutting at 2pm.

Reception to follow with music by Will Colón and his band.

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STEVE SIMONSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

5

DOs & DON’Ts OF SNORKELING ON T HE WATER W/ CAPTAIN TOM KIRKBRIGHT

DO Do discuss and plan your snorkel. Decide how you want to cover the body of water you are about to snorkel. It’s always a good idea to swim out against a light current and float back over the reef. Always keep the boat or shore in sight.

Do stay together. For both safety and enjoyment, two or three sets of eyes will see much more than one set alone and a partner may see trouble you don’t.

Do create a simple form of hand signals. This will allow you to share observed marine life 50

without having to surface to explain. A simple set of signals is sufficient for messages like; Going back to shore or boat; I need help; Let’s go this way; Are you OK?; Look at this. And keep your signals simple.

Do be prepared. Make sure your equipment fits and is comfortable.

Clearing a mask every 30 seconds or adjusting a fin over a reef is no fun. The equipment should be in good condition and fit properly. If you are prone to motion sickness and have charted a snorkel trip, take your medicine in a timely fashion, not while stepping onto the boat.

Do save the experience.

Inexpensive underwater cameras are now readily available. Make sure your camera has a clip or lanyard. You’ll need both hands to swim and snorkel the incredible reefs and shoreline of Vieques.

DON’T Don’t snorkel alone!!

This is the primary rule of any water activity. Always snorkel with a partner.

Don’t touch anything.

There are a myriad of marine species and corals that can cause severe pain or worse. Not only are you protecting yourself, but also the coral reefs and aquatic life.

They are easily damaged by handling.

Don’t panic. Despite the amazing and beautiful insights into the Vieques underwater world that snorkeling provides, there are scenarios that can cause distress; a jellyfish sting, a brush against fire coral, equipment failure, a leg cramp, a shark sighting, to name a few. Stay calm. You’re not in danger unless you put yourself there. Swim slowly back to the boat or shore where you can make a clear assessment of what happened and how to proceed.

Don’t try to swim against a strong current. Rip currents on the beach or open-water currents on the edges of some offshore reefs are powerful. Snorkel equipment doesn’t turn you into Michael Phelps. Doggie paddle, watch where the current is pushing you, then swim at a 90 degree angle to the current until you are out, then back to shore, the boat or the reef.

Don’t apply suntan lotion right before entering the water.

Scientists have recently learned that some types of suntan lotion containing Benzophenone-2 or BP-2 can cause corals to bleach. The effects are difficult to measure and these studies are an ongoing process. Please put your lotion on at least 20 minutes before entering the water. When possible, try to use sunscreen with Titanium or Zinc Oxide. Check the label.

SNO RKE

T

N O RT H SHORE

L D A LW AY O N LEF

It happens all too often!

Don’t lose your sunglasses to a wave at Navio!

L

H20 HOT PICKS

OU

BE

Vieques has numerous great places to snorkel. Here are two of the best!

SH

S

SNORKEL VIEQUES PIERS

Dry Pak Bag • Protect your camera or phone from the elements. Shoot photos through the optical quality bag.

Slip this foam sheath over the rubber straps of your snorkel mask to protect your long locks from getting tangled or breaking.

Save the memories with an underwater case for your iphone.

4/4S/5 • depth rating 130ft.

50+ UPF SO U T H SHORE

The sugarcane pier in Esperanza is a great place to snorkel as well as to just hang out and enjoy the beach. On Saturdays and Sundays the pier can be busy with kids jumping from the pier to the water so snorkelers should get there early or on weekdays.

Protect your skin from sunburn, jellyfish, and bumps against rocks or coral.

A L L I T E M S AVA I L A B L E AT B L A C K B E A R D S P O R T S

Rompeolas, also called Mosquito Pier, is the perfect snorkel site. Located on the north shore, two miles west of the airport on Highway 200, Rompeolas might be your best chance to see a sea turtle while snorkeling.

If you are starting your snorkel from a sandy spot put your equipment on when you are already in the water. Fins go on easier when they are wet and the snorkel strap slides easily over wet hair.

Put your snorkel equipment on close to or in the water, NOT far from the shore.

The snorkel always goes on the left of the mask. This might seem like common sense to experienced snorkelers but to the beginner this tip is extremely useful!

Wear a rashguard.

51

Chikungunya K E Y FAC T S : Chikungunya is a viral disease transmitted to humans by infected Aedes aegypti and Aedes albopictus mosquitoes, both aggressive daytime biters.

Aedes aegypti is widely found in Puerto Rico, and Vieques, and also transmit dengue.

SYMPTOMS:

• Fever, severe joint pain, muscle pain, headache, nausea, fatigue, rash.

• The incubation period is typically 3–7 days (range, 2–12 days) • People at risk for more severe disease include newborns infected around the time of birth, adults 65 or older, and people with medical conditions such as high blood pressure, immune deficiency diabetes, or heart disease.

PREVENTION = PREVENT MOSQUITO BITES

• Wear long sleeves, pants and hats.

• Use insect repellent that contains as an active ingredient DEET, picaridin, oil of lemon eucalyptus, PMD, or IR3535.

• Apply sunscreen first and insect repellent second.

• Reapply repellent as directed and after going in water • Stay and sleep in rooms with screens or air conditioning to keep mosquitoes outside – remember, these mosquitoes bite during dawn, dusk and during the day.

• Treat clothing with permethrin or purchase permethrin-treated clothing.

• Empty standing water from containers such as flower pots or buckets – these mosquitoes breed in anything that collects water , especially containers near your residence.

• Use mosquito coils and citronella candles on outside patios.

• Children seem to be much more resilient to the virus, and may only show symptoms for a day or two

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Second only to oil, coffee is the most valuable, legally-traded commodity in the world. It is estimated that2.25 billion cups

• Pregnant women who contract the disease near their delivery date (7 – 10 days prior) must tell their physicians immediately because they can transmit the virus in utero to their newborns.

amount of any other U.S. city - which explains

• Pregnant women who get the virus early in their pregnancy can deliver a baby already immune to it!

of our next Vieques Insider when we visit

of coffee are consumed each day worldwide.

New Yorkers are said to drink 7 times the why there seems to be a Starbucks on every corner of Manhattan! Be sure to get a copy a coffee plantation on the Main Island!

T R E AT M E N T:

There is no cure for the disease and treatment is focused on relieving the symptoms.

• Get plenty of rest • Drink fluids to prevent dehydration • Take acetaminophen, or paracetamol to relieve fever and pain. Do not take over the counter medicines with ibuprofen or naproxen unless directed by a physician – the reason is that chikungunya often looks like dengue and taking these medications when you have dengue can cause bleeding.

• Do not take aspirin.

R E COV E RY

Most people recover within a week although some people will suffer from joint pain for months.

Once a person has been infected, he or she is likely to be protected from future infections.

“If you have Chikungunya keep yourself sprayed with insect repellent or sleep under a bednet, especially during the day.

Even though you already have the virus, you are preventing non-infected mosquitos from biting you, becoming infected themselves, and subsequently infecting healthy people.”

CHILDREN

• Children who nap during the day should sleep under mosquito netting.

D i d yo u k n o w ?

-Dr. Harold S. Margolis, Chief of the Dengue Branch for the Center for Disease Control and Prevention

breads breakfast pastries quiches a desserts for all occasions

The Green Baked Man Goods

“..awesome food and service” as seen on TripAdvisor.

i n t e r n a t i o n a l

Have your morning breakfast waiting for you at your rental house when you arrive!

call to order

(787)435-6822 Scott D. Appell

viequesgreenman@aol.com

The print shop of Vieques La imprenta de Vieques Publisher

aLL yoUr priNtiNg Needs: business cards bumper stickers flyers brochures postcards menus signs

of Fin

de Semana

Vieques Community News

787-741-2856 787-384-2272 rbonanov@gmail.com

Ubicada en la carretera 201 al frente de la Ferretería Nales.

Located on Highway 201 in front of Ferretería Nales.

Vieques

WEDDINGS WEDDING DN

Stress-Free Destination Wedding Planning & Event Floral Specialists 787-741-8000 • www.weddingsinvieques.com

FLOW

LUNA - Delivered to Heaven 2014 Dear God, Do you adopt dogs in Heaven?

We’re sending one that we know you’ll love.

She’s loyal, and loving - a great part of the family All the stuff that great pets are made of.

We brought her home 10 years ago, And at first things were not so great.

Everything scared her, so she snarled and growled.

She was in quite a crazy state.

But a couple of years later, she met a new baby And we saw it with our own eyes.

That crazy dog who used to be scared Discovered a new way of life.

From that day forward, she bagan to love everyone And welcomed the world to our door With a waggling tail, chirps of excitement And slimy dog kisses galore.

We’re sending you Luna. It’s your turn to have her And care for her as your own.

Please let her know that we’ll never forget her.

We know that she’ll love her new home.

made in VQs

Take a little bit of Vieques home with you!

LocaL artisan Bodycare

made with Local Ingredients

Gift Sets available!

For sale at:

Larissa and Liz

917.573.4491

Funky Beehive

vieques.bathandbotanica@gmail.com

Vieques Yoga Sunbay Yoga 9am Mon-Sat • Lun - Sab

787- 435-7510 Yoga Therapy, Partner Yoga, Private Sessions 35 yrs Experience in various traditions of Yoga Giangeet • viequesyoga@gmail.com

insider [V I E Q U E S ]

CONNECTING VISITORS TO VIEQUES

Check out the interactive magazine at www.viequesinsider.com Have access to advertisers websites and video.

For more information or to inquire about advertising, please visit our website www.viequesinsider.com or call Kelly at 787.435.3172

The FRESHEST place on the rock!

Smokehouse • Oysters • Artisan Draft Beer OPEN OPEN Tues-Sat Tues-Sat 5-10PM 5-10PM .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

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SUNDAY SUNDAY BRUNCH BRUNCH 11-3PM 11-3PM 53

Traditions

JOSÉ CARRASQUILLO

As

a child the night before Three Kings’ Day, I went out into the field, clipped the greenest leaves of grass, put them inside a shoe box, and then placed the box by my bed so that the horses transporting the Three Kings would have food once they entered the house. The north american counterpart tradition is to leave milk and cookies for Santa. But by late afternoon of December 25th Santa is on his way back to the North Pole while in Latin America and Spain, millions of children still await “el día de los Reyes Magos”. This is the day children traditionally receive holiday presents in Latin America. For many Christians around the world the holiday season doesn’t officially end until the 12th day of Christmas, also known as the Feast of the Epiphany or Three Kings’ Day. The holiday falls on January 6th and marks the adoration of the baby Jesus by the Three Kings.

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In Vieques, Three Kings’ Day is an integral part of our annual Christmas holidays. During the holidays, families, neighbors and sometimes entire towns come together to celebrate our traditions. In addition to Three Kings’ Day here is a list of some of the things that make our holiday festivities in Puerto Rico one of the wonders of the cultural and culinary world!

1. Food: Pasteles (Puertorican tamales) served with arroz con gandules (yellow rice with pigeon peas); Lechón (roasted pig) cooked in a back yard fire pit seasoned to perfection; Tembléque (coconut custard) for dessert. A staple of the season is Turron, a confection made of honey, sugar, egg whites and toasted almonds. ...............................

2. Drink: Coquito, our traditional homemade version of eggnog combines coconut, rum and spices.

For the fearless, there is Agua Ardiente and Pitorro.

These are extremely strong libations and not recommended for the lightweight. ...............................

3. Music: The holidays are a time of celebration and music. Our very own cultural tradition is the Parranda. A Parranda is an unannounced serenade that

aims to wake up the recipients (and their immediate neighbors). The recipient of a Parranda is expected to open his/her house, offer holiday food and drink to the parranderos and join the Parranda on the next stop. Many parrandas last into the next morning. The last Parranda of the night ends with an asopao (a chicken stew) expected to be prepared by the last host on the Parranda list. ...............................

...............................

5. “Noche Buena”— Christmas eve is a night when families get together to eat traditional food, celebrate, tell stories, sing, dance and wait for Christmas. Devout Catholics still attend midnight mass. ...............................

6. “Despedida de año”— New Year’s Eve is usually celebrated in the town plaza with music and dance from

early evening until midnight and beyond! At midnight, Puertoricans say good bye to the old year by throwing a bucket of water outside their door. The New Year is welcomed with a display of fireworks! ...............................

7. “Las octavitas”—We celebrate the holidays a little longer than most. We add 8 more days after Three Kings’ Day.

4. Musical instruments: string instruments such as the guitar and the Cuatro are a staple of our holiday music. The Cuatro is the national instrument of Puerto Rico. It belongs to the lute family of string instruments. A cuatro player is called a cuatrista. In addition, percussion instruments are key to the tempo and rhythm of our music.

The two most significant percussion instruments are the Guiro and the Palitos.

The Guiro is an instrument consisting of a hollow gourd with parallel notches cut in one side. The Guiro is played by rubbing a fork like gadget along the notches. The Palitos, two cylindrical hardwood sticks played by hitting one against the other, are Puertorican instruments that set rhythm.

LA RONDALLA DE VIEQUES On February 10th, 2015 the Vieques Concert Society (VCS) in partnership with the W Hotel and Spa is producing the cultural event of the holiday season with their Winter Concert. The concert will feature La Rondalla de Vieques under Jorge Camacho’s direction. This is a notto-be-missed opportunity to hear a group of gifted young cuatristas from Vieques play our national instrument. The Guiro is likely to make a surprise appearance. And every concert goer will get a taste of Coquito. Artistic Director, Annette Bou says, “the Winter Concert will showcase the talent of La Rondalla de Vieques with an impressive repertory range that will include some of our beloved holiday classics. We are also proud to have saxophone virtuoso, Edgar Abraham as the musical guest.” Edgar recently headlined, Edgar Abraham: Unique—A Musical Journey at Carnegie Hall in NYC. The SOLD-OUT concert, a fusion of Classical Music, Contemporary Jazz and Caribbean Rhythms, wowed musical east coast critics.

XVII TROVA NAVIDEÑA Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:00 pm Public Plaza of Vieques sábado, 20 de diciembre de 2014 desde las 8:00 pm Plaza Pública de Vieques ARTISTAS INVITADOS / INVITED ARTISTS Luis Daniel Colón y sus Niños Trovadores Mon Silva, “El Trovador de Isla Nena” Christian Nieves y Herencia Musical Moncho Rivera y su Orquesta

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I N S T A G R A M C O N T E S T The authentic “Insider� view of Vieques is by those who live, work, and play here.

Whether enjoying a sunset or bored in math class, these are moments of real island life by people who go to school, go to work, babysit their brother, or are falling in love for the first time.

and the wackiest winner is >> Ocram Citron * 11th grade Shower Soap

El Vieques Insider de febrero-marzo te invita a participar en el concurso INSIDERGRAM, patrocinado por CapeAir. El tema para el concurso es amando a Vieques.

El premio (estan listos?) son dos pasajes ida y vuelta de San Juan a Vieques en Cape Air! Para participar, mandanos las fotos a:

share@viequesinsider.com

787.435.3172

56

F

E

B

/

M

A

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INSIDERGRAM

CONTEST

SPONSORED BY

CAPE AIR The theme for the Feb/March issue of the Vieques Insider Instagram contest is

LOVE VIEQUES and the prize is, are you ready for this?,

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ROUND-TRIP TICKETS FROM SAN JUAN TO VIEQUES ON CAPE AIR! So send me those photos folks! share@viequesinsider.com

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“See the island from our point of view...”

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One-way drop offs between Fajardo and San Juan International Airport.

4227 Calle Marginal #3 (787) 860-6868 Mon- Fri 8:00am - 5:00pm ....................................

1000 Ave El Conquistador • 787-801-3722 or 787-801-3723 Sun-Mon 8:00am - 5:00pm

Your perfect choice to see all Puerto Rico has to offer!

Enterprise cars cannot be taken to Vieques on the ferry.

Recycling Drop-Off Locations NEW OFFICE AND DROP OFF -WEST END Follow 200 going West.

After you pass the pier take your first left before the large field across from Milivy Church. (If you get to the church you have gone too far.) / Drive 0.25 miles and look for signs for the recycling office on the left.

58

Esperanza Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust is across from the Malecon and next to Duffy’s Restaurant.

The recycling containers are in front yard.

Barrio Florida Driving west on 200 toward airport, take a left onto 201. Take the first right into the AAA Office.

The recycling containers are at the end on the left.

MATERIALS RECYCLED • PLASTIC, CARDBOARD, PAPER, ALUMINUM Gladys Velazquez 787.741.5000 ext. 2351 or email reciclaje.gmv@gmail.com

Sea Almond

COMMON BEACHSIDE TREES OF VIEQUES Sea Almond

Here’s a quick survey of the some of our most frequently encountered seaside flora.

SCOTT APPELL

S E A A L M O N D O R I N D I A N -A L M O N D ( T E R M I N A L I A C A TA P P A )

Known as almendro (“almond”) in Spanish, this large, salt-resistant, drought tolerant resident of Oceania inhabits most of the beaches of Vieques as well as private gardens and roadsides. It is easily to identify by its stiff horizontal limbs and huge, spoon-shaped leaves borne in great rosettes at the ends of their stubby twigs – hence the genus name Terminalia (terminal). The species name catappa is a South Pacific dialectal name for the tree. Its long, slender, yellow spikes of tiny white, fragrant flowers are followed by 2-inch, beaked, red (or sometimes yellow) fleshy fruit.

This thin flesh is edible, juicy and subacid but either needs to be scraped away with a penknife or simply gnawed off – great fun for kids. However, it is the sweet, almond-like kernel (thus the common names) within the pit that are the real taste treat. Although incredibly difficult and timely to crack open, clever Viequenses employ the kernels to make brittles, cookies and other confections.

N O N I ( M O R I N DA C I T R I F O L I A )

Because of its high salt tolerance, you can find this tropical Asian and Australian species growing along most of Vieques’ seashores. It is easily recognizable by its great, rich-green, glossy, quilted foliage and

Noni

small clusters of tiny white blossoms. But its greatest characteristic is its large, bizarre, juicy, milky-white fruit that vaguely resembles a well-scrubbed new potato. It has a strange cheeselike odor and tastes (to me) like a mixture of over cooked asparagus and radishes – not a taste sensation, to be sure. However, the fruit posses medicinal properties which have recently enjoyed great interest in the field of homeopathy. For millennia, the unripe fruit, leaves and roots were traditionally used in Polynesian cultures to treat menstrual cramps, bowel irregularities, diabetes, liver diseases, and urinary tract infections.

59

MANCHINEEL (HIPPOMANE MANCINELLA)

Sea Grape SEA GRAPE (COCCOLOBA UVIFERA)

This sturdy Tropical American tree is a ubiquitous resident of coastlines from southern Florida southward to Aruba. Here on Vieques, you’ll encounter it wherever you visit the sea. It is a popular, highly salt-resistant, wind tolerant and xerophytic (drought-tolerant) landscape subject as well. It has an unmistakable, heavy, “lazy” growth pattern.

Its peeling grey bark reveals the creams and pinks of its inner bark. The foliage is remarkable; 8- to 10-inch wide, stiff, leathery leaves with prominent, waxy, bright red veins.

As they age, they turn orange and red. Upon pollination, its inconspicuous spikes of whitish-green flowers produce long, pendant clusters of reddish-purple “grapes” that are delicious, mellow and sweet and prove to be highly popular with young and old alike. Called uva de playa (literally “sea grape”) in Spanish, the small fruit can be nibbled simply out of hand or made into jams, jellies, drinks and syrups.

In some areas of the Caribbean a strong, musky wine is fermented from them.

This Caribbean native is also called beach apple and manzanillo (“little apple”) in Spanish, and is the tree parents should become familiar with on sight; all plant parts are injurious both externally and internally. In fact, it is the most poisonous tree on Vieques. It may grow as tall as 40-feet but is usually much smaller. It bears fissured, warty, dark-brown or grey bark and 2- to 4-inch long yellow-green leaves. Its spikes of inconspicuous yellow-green flowers result in 1- to 1-inch yellow-green or yellowish fruit tinged with red that truly resemble crabapples – hence the common names.

All plant parts exude a caustic milky sap which may effect some indviduals far greater than others; especially the eyes and mouth. If suspected of eating the fruit, prompt treatment includes vomiting.

If traveling with youngsters, perhaps a small bottle of ipecac syrup might be a worthwhile component of your beachside first aid kit.

This poisonous tree has been located by Fish and Wildlife Service on Punta Vaca and also Playa La Chiva at sites #13 and #20.

Manchineel

ARQUITECTO STANLEY HUTCHINSON 787.556.5537 stanleyc.hutchinson@gmail.com

PR License: 14438

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Bravos Beach cottages

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photo by jeffreyfavero.com

850-598-1415 • www.vrbo.com/559826

Largest privately owned estate on Vieques, now available to rent!

El Cerro

esperanza shanklin estate

Relax, replenish, rejuvenate

787.741.1178

www.hectorsbythesea.com

COOKIES PARADISE Two Unit Villa

2/3 BEDROOM & 4 BEDROOM 2 VEHICLES AVAILABLE TO RENT WITH PROPERTY

305.975.2046 cookiemb1@aol.com www.cookiesparadisevieques.com

Comfort, Beauty & Oceanside Views

(787) 741-1128 www.bravobeachhotel.com 61

I’d Love to Bring Some Home...

But Can I? SCOTT APPELL

We all want to bring edible souvenirs of our Vieques vacation home with us – it’s natural! But according to the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (whose acronym, APHIS, is a clever reference to Aphis, the genus of a ubiquitous plant pest; the common aphid) all passenger baggage traveling from Puerto Rico to the U.S. mainland is subject to inspection.

These inspections are conducted by officials of the USDA and APHIS prior to departure. Be prepared to open and close your baggage. If you have agricultural items with you, tell the inspector. Failure to do so can result in travel delays and fines of $1,000 or more.

info@angularvieques.com 410-363-3284 410-790-2256

THERE ARE SEVERAL PLANTS THAT ARE ILLEGAL TO BRING BACK INTO THE UNITED STATES:

www.angularvieques.com

&

5 bedrooms, 6 full bathrooms

color

L u x u r y

Mangos: because of the mango borer, which may infect the U. S. mango crop.

Pigeon peas (gandules in Spanish): because of the pigeon pea borer which might affect America’s soybean and legume industry.

Citrus (of all types): because insect, bacterial, fungal and viral pathogens might be devastating to the Mainland’s citrus industry.

Additionally, sour sop, passionfruit and potted plants are forbidden.

&

413.548.8053

comfort

E x p a n s i ve C a r i b b e a n Vi e w s lush tropical gardens, pool

S t y l e

Casa de Colores

http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p271094

BUT HAPPILY, AVOCADO, PAPAYA, COCONUT AND PLANTAIN CAN BE TAKEN LEGALLY INTO THE U.S.

TANDEM SKYDIVE

to benefit Vieques Humane Society VA L E R I E M C D Y E R

V i e q u e s ’ O n ly B u y e r s B r O k e r

Looking for property?

Sheila Levin, a 25 year resident of Vieques, can guide you through the process. Working with all brokers, she will set appointments for appropriate properties, negotiate the price and follow through to closing. Don’t waste time, and get advice from a Broker who is on your side ONLY. Ask for the private MLS for Vieques.

Sheila Levin, 787 741 3298 • 917 553 6595, sheilevin@gmail.com.

62

The Vieques Humane Society (VHS) faces many challenges every day in their work to improve the health and welfare of the animals on this small Caribbean island. VHS works with a tiny staff and a dedicated group of volunteers to spay and neuter, provide veterinary care, and to educate the public on the animal welfare issues we face.

The goal of the skydive is not only to raise funds, but to raise awareness worldwide about the important ongoing work and needs of the shelter. VHS operates solely on donations and depends on generous people like you.

For more information about the fundraiser call Val at 617-417-4912 or email vmcdyer@yahoo.com or donate on their website www.viequeshumanesociety.org/

TAKING A PET HOME JANE CHADWICK

When the doe eyed, four legged, fur covered love of your life wanders into your life, no matter the obstacles, you just can’t leave him behind. And, you don’t have to! There are just four things that you will need to get that buddy home with you.

(If you decide to adopt an animal from the Humane Society, this step is already done) You will need to have a vet exam and rabies shot. The doctor will vaccinate the animal and complete the health certificate and issue certificate of rabies. There are two veterinary clinics on Vieques and many on the main island that can help with this.

Vieques Humane Society, Tuesday, Wednesday, 787-741-0209 Clinica de Animales, VQS, Mondays 787-741-1826 Dr. Delgado, Fajardo 787-860-5237 Dr. Sanitago, Loiza 787-256-5158 PR Veterinary Clinic, San Juan, 787-725-4786, 787-742-0336 Vet 24/7, San Juan, 24 hours 787-751-3737 Banfield Animal Hospital, San Juan 787-751-4570, 787-273-2011 2 TRAVEL KENNEL Soft sided / in cabin transport 20 lbs or less Hard kennels / cargo travel

Walmart, several locations Note: Two water/food cups secured to the kennel door are required in cargo. Be aware that most come with only one or none. Label your kennel with a sharpie!

Hacienda Tamarindo

Ferry • Kennels are required Vieques Airlink • 30lbs or less • kennels for rent Air Flamenco • Medium / small kennel must fit in cargo • no weight limit Cape Air • medium/small kennels 4 FLIGHT HOME

The best hotel I have ever stayed at, pure and simple.”

Hospitality...

it’s our nature.

787-741-8525

www.haciendatamarindo.com

Common airlines with service from San Juan International.

American Airlines. Aa.com 800-981-4757 800-4337300 800-227-4622 (cargo) Weight limit 100 pounds.

Temperature restrictions on cargo. Breed Restrictions!!!

United 800-864-8331 united. com • In cabin from passenger check in. Cargo from cargo terminal. No weight or temperature restrictions.

There are breed restrictions with respect to kennel size and reinforced crate requirements.

Jet Blue jetblue.com 800-538-2583 • In cabin only. Weight limit 20# Delta Airlines delta.com 800-352-2746 • In cabin, as checked baggage and as cargo. Website has all pertinent info.

Spirit Airlines spiritair.com 801-401-2222 In cabin only.

Southwest southwest.com 800-435-9792 In cabin only Airtran airtran.com 800-247-8726 Incabin only.

USAir 800-428-4322 In cabin only. usairways.com HOTELS IN PUERTO RICO ALLOWING PETS.

Sheraton Old San Juan 787-721-5100, Convention District 787-993-3500 Coqui Inn Isla Verde 787-726-4330 Wind Chimes Ocean Park 787-727-4153 Casa del Caribe Condado 787-722-7139 Verdanza Hotel Isla Verde 787-253-9000

Hix Island House v

I

e

q

u

e

s

p. r.

Hip, luxurious retreat amidst rustic Zen-like architectural elegance.

Open tO the public:

YOga class at Hix Pavilion Daily 9:30am

www.HixIslandHouse.com

787-741-2302

oCeanFRonT seTTinG

Villa

Uno VieqUes www.villaunovieques.com 2 0 2 .3 8 7.9 8 1 2

Pool / PanoRaMiC VieWs

FOR SALE AT: Vieques Humane Society Centro Commercial Vieques (next to the post office) Nales Hardware, Vieques Petsmart, Fajardo

3 TRAVEL TO SAN JUAN

7 BeDRooMs / 6 BaTHRooMs

1 THE HEALTH CERTIFICATE

HisToRiC isaBel seGUnDa 63

VISIT THE

CEIBA TREE

ENJOY A

WATCH THE SUNSET ON THE SOUTH SIDE PASS IT ON

GO ON A

TOUR

QUESITO

SMILE BIG

(SNORKELING, SAILING, HORSEBACK RIDING, WHAT’S YOUR FANCY?)

FORGET YOURSELF

COLLECT SEA GLASS

SEE THE SUGAR MILL RUINS

TIP APPRECIATE LOCAL ART

TRY A QUENEPA GO TO THE FORT LISTEN TO RADIO VIEQUES

JUMP OFF

THE PIER IN ESPERANZA

SAMPLE FARE FROM THE KIOSKS

snorkel the pier

DONATE TO A LOCAL NON PROFIT GET PUNCHY!

LISTEN FOR A COQUI

GET LOST

WATCH THE SUNSET ON THE NORTH SIDE

HAVE LOCAL LOBSTER

salsa at la nasaquick,quick,quickquickslowslow

ADOPT A DOG FIND A HEART ROCK SUBSCRIBE TO VIEQUES INSIDER

www.viequesinsider.com 787.435.3172

k e l l y @ v i e q u e s i n s i d e r. c o m 64

Smoothie Girl

Open 10am-6pm everyday made with local fruit and lots o’ luv

SOME AIRLINES CHARGE $1 PER POUND FOR LUGGAGE OVER 25 POUNDS

TAKE A SWEATER ON THE FERRY!

ACROSS FROM THE FERRY IN ISABEL II

FORTIN CONDE DE MIRASOL Museum, bookstore, and home to Vieques artifacts Wed – Sun • 8am - 4:20pm • 787.741.1717 65

WHERE TO DRINK & DINE AGUACATE 787-615-2320 Sunday Nights Catered dinners at Hector’s by the Sea guesthouse. Thursday Nights 6 course prix fixe in villa w/360 degree ocean view.

Reservations required. ..................................

ARENAMAR CAFÉ 787-239-7771 11am-5pm Everday Great food, frappés, and frozen drinks. Delivery on Sunbay Beach. Sunset happy hours. Café is located inside gate at Sunbay. ..................................

AWESOME! YOGURT 787-517-1061 Tues-Thurs 6-9pm Fri & Sat 5-10pm Frozen yogurt, frappes, smoothies, free wifi.

Kiosk next to Banco Popular in Isabel II ..................................

BELLY BUTTONS 787-741-3336 Open everyday breakfast & lunch9am-3pm; Dinner BBQ Thurs-Sun 5-9pm; Paella w/Waldo Wed-6:00-9pm Reservations requested.

Beach Restaurant with the island’s best ribs and sandwiches! Ocean views on the quiet side of the malecon. ..................................

BILÍ 787-741-1382 Thurs-Tues 11:00am-10pm weekends open til 11pm Puerto Rican fusion cuisine with local chef Eva Bolivar.

Open air and ocean views.

On the malecon Esperanza. ..................................

BLUE MOON BAR & GRILL at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Everyday 9am-11pm Sun pasta night 1-9pm Circular artistic hand painted bar. A great place to meet!

Open 365 days. ..................................

66

BUEN PROVECHO 787-529-7316 Mon-Sat 8am - 6pm Deli, Market, Café, Wine & Spirits. Breakfast, lunch and occasional pop-up dinners.

Next to Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery in Isabel II. ..................................

CARAMBOLA AT THE BLUE HORIZON BOUTIQUE RESORT 787-741-3318 Breakfast 7:00am - 12:00pm Lunch 12 -pm - 3 -pm Dinner 3:00pm - 10pm Great local and international dishes served in Caribbean fashion. Open 365 days.

Beautiful, unique setting overlooking the ocean. ..................................

CHICKEN KING AND ICE CREAM 787-741-5464 Open everyday. Roasted and fried chicken, hand dipped ice-cream, burgers, sandwiches and more! ..................................

CONUCO 787-741-2500 Tues - Sat 5:30 - 9:30pm Cocina Puertorriqueña.

Authentic Puerto Rican food in a warm elegant atmosphere.

Located in Isabel II across from Banco Popular. ..................................

COQUI FIRE CAFÉ 787-741-0401 Mon - Fri 5-9pm Gourmet Mexican food, reservations recommended.

Isabel II ..................................

DUFFY’S ESPERANZA 787-741-7600 Everyday 11-close Diverse menu and daily specials. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, local fish specials and chef’s specials. On the malecon Esperanza ..................................

EL SOMBRERO VIEJO BAR & LIQUOR STORE 787-741-2416 Everyday 12noon-after midnight. Local bar, hang out and wine cellar. ..................................

It’s high season and the island bars and restaurants are hoppin’!

EL QUENEPO 787-741-1215 Mon-Sat 5:30-close Handcrafted food and cocktails featuring local, seasonal ingredients. Nightly fresh offerings from the sea.

Open air dining on the Malecon in Esperanza. ..................................

HAPPY ICE CREAM Soft ice-cream kiosk parked in Isabel II Fri-Sun 4-10pm, and in Esperanza Sat & Sun 11am4pm. Look for the smiley face flag! ..................................

IZZY’S BAR & GRILL 787-741-0720 Puerto Rican/American dishes.

At Island Adventures location.

Package Dinner and BioBay tour $65. Eclectic Menu. ..................................

JOSE ENRIQUE AT EL BLOK 787-741-6020 Sun-Wed Bar: 4:30-12am Restaurant 6-10pm Thurs-Sat Bar: 4:30-1 Restaurant 6-10:30 Caribbean flavors with locally sourced products. Mesquite fired grilled-whole fish, beef & pork porterhouse. Offering whole roasted chickens and a large selection of smaller dishes. ..................................

L’MIRADOR at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort 787-741-3318 Pizza Fri & Sat 4-11 pm Sunday 1 pm -9 pm Fun, lively setting with ocean view. Open 365 days. ..................................

MAR AZUL 787-741-3400 Fri-Mon 10am-close Tues-Thurs 3pm-12am Quality Pub Food / Late Night Snacks. Awesome sunsets and cocktails. Karaoke Sat. Isabel II up from the ferry. ..................................

NEXT COURSE 787-741-1028 FRI. - WED. 5:30-10pm Caribbean lobster, local market fish, house dry aged beef, home made pastas. A menu that encompasses American cuisine with Caribbean flair with something for everyone. ..................................

NOCHE 787-741-8666 Wed -Sun 5-10. Sushi + Martini Bar +Full Eclectic menu. ..................................

PLACITA REYES Farmers Market Tues, Wed, & Fri 7am-4pm intersection of 200 and 201 ..................................

SMOKEY’S BBQ and Grilll. Ribs, burgers, seafood, churrasco, and more.

Open everyday 10:30 am -10pm. On rt 200 km 1.7 ..................................

SMOOTHIE GIRL Fresh fruit smoothies across from the ferry everyday. ..................................

SORCÉ AT THE W HOTEL 787-741-7022 Everyday 7:30-11am Breakfast 1 -3pm Lunch 6-10pm Dinner. Modern Puerto Rican cuisine showcasing local produce & seasonal ingredients. Reservations requested. All are welcome. ..................................

TAVERNA 787-438-1100 Mon-Fri. 5-10pm Italian restaurant and pizzeria. ..................................

TINBOX 787-741-7700 Tues-Sat. 5-10pm Happy Hour 4-6pm $2 Tacos Sunday brunch 11-3pm Smokehouse, oysters, daily specials and artisan draft beer. ..................................

TRADEWINDS 787-741-8666 Fresh Seafood, Steaks, Pasta, Paella, and more! Lobster specials nightly.

Happy hour 5-6:30pm Dinner 5:30-9:30 Nightly Breakfast and Lunch overlooking the ocean. On the malecon Esperanza ..................................

W CAFÉ AT THE W HOTEL 787-741-7056 Everyday 7am-3pm Freshly made smoothies, Puerto Rican Coffee and Made to order sandwiches and Gourmet fare – Open to Public – all are welcome. ..................................

insider tip To avoid having to wait at a restaurant or worse yet, not getting a table, please make reservations.

WHAT TO DO SPECIAL WEEKLY EVENTS

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

EVERYDAY

FRIDAY

Happy Hour, Mar Azul, 5-7pm

Lobster Specials at Tradewinds, 787 741-8666

FULL MOON DRUM CIRCLE

Trade Winds Restaurant Happy Hour 5:00-6:30 Sunset Happy Hour Arenamar Sunbay Café Yoga everyday at W, 8:15 am Sunbay Yoga 787 435-7510 9am (varies so call ahead to confirm) TUES-SUN Vinasa Yoga w/Jennifer, at Hix Island House’s Yoga Pavillion, 9:30am MONDAY Yoga with Maureen Harrison @ Hix Island House 8:30 am 787-556-5025 Rotary Meetings check www.rotaryvieques.com for time and location TUESDAY-SAT Yoga with Maureen Harrison, Hills of Monte Carmelo, Sunset 5pm $12 787-556-5025

Live Music & Open Jam, Mar Azul 9pm-1am, Pizza Nights, Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm 787.741.3318 BBQ Night, Belly Buttons 5-9pm Brunch, Biekes Bistro 7:30am-2pm SATURDAY Pizza Nights- Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 4-11pm Karaoke at Mar Azul, 10pm BBQ Night, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm SUNDAY Paella Special at Tradewinds Pasta Nights,Blue Moon Bar at Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, 1pm - 9pm

T U ESDAY $12.99 Dinners at Mar Azul, 5-9pm

Oceanfront Dining at Hector’s by the Sea, Sunset Happy Hour 5-6:30 www.aguacatecatering.com

WEDNESDAY

BBQ Night, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm

Paella night w/Waldo, Belly Buttons 6-9pm, reservations requested 787.741.3336 Seafood Gala, fry and broil at Tradewinds Restaurant, 5:309:30pm

FARMER’S MARKET Tues, Wed, and Fri 8am-4pm on Route 201 intersecting with Route 200

LAST WED OF EACH MONTH

ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS –

Monthly birthday party at El Sombrero Viejo, 7pm

MON & TUES. Esperanza VCHT, Open Meeting, 5:30PM

THURSDAY

WED. Behind Catholic church in Isabell II Friends and Family, 9AM • 6PM Open Meeting

Game Night at El Sombrero Viejo, 7pm Throwback Thursday at Conuco. Chef Rebecca Betancourt brings back one of her classic dishes.

Bomba class with Erika. 7pm Esperanza Biblioteca Electronica Aguacate dinner at Hix designed villa $65 limited seating, 787-615-2320 Meditation Class with Maureen Harrison, Hills of Monte Carmelo 7:30am $20/includes breakfast. Call to reserve 787556-5025 BBQ Night, Belly Buttons, 5-9pm 787.741.3336

THURS. Playa Gallito, Open Meeting, 8:30 am FRI. Behind Catholic church in Isabell II, Open Meeting, 9am SAT. Open Meeting, 10:30a SUN. Behind Catholic church in Isabell II Open Meeting, 10:30am

Dec 6 • Full Moon Drum Circle Sunbay, no experience necessary. Bring a percussion instrument and chair, 5:30pm til sunrise!

Fri Dec 12 • Juan Silva “Puertorro”, Show opening 7pm Forte Conde Mirasol Sat Dec 20 • XVII Trova Navideña, Plaza in Isabel II, 8pm Wed Dec 24 • Traditional Christmas Dinner at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, seatings at 6 & 8pm, live music, $40 per person.

787-741-3318 Dec 28-30 • Art Festival “Lovely Vieques” Town Plaza, Isabel II Wed Dec 31 • New Year’s Dinner at the Blue Horizon Boutique Resort, seatings at 6 & 8 pm, live music, Champagne toast $55 per person. 787-741-3318 Sat Jan 17 • Full Moon Drum Circle Sunbay, no experience necessary. Bring a percussion instrument and chair, 5:30pm til sunrise!

Mon Jan 19 • Rotary dinner and cocktail party to benefit the Juntos Humane Education Program - Martin Luther King Day Thurs Jan. 22 • Bernardo Medina Colón, New Paintings, Opening 6-8pm Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Gallery Fri Jan. 30 • Horses, Gallery Galleon, Opening 5:30-7:30

VCHT/FCHV Calendar Sun Dec 7 • 9:00am – 12:00pm Playa Grande tour – meet at VCHT/FCHV Sat Dec 13 • 5:00pm7:30pm VCHT Holiday Open House Fri Dec 26 • 9:00am – 12:00pm Playa Grande tour – meet at VCHT/FCHV Thu Jan 8 • 9:00am – 12:00pm Playa Grande tour – meet at VCHT/FCHV Tue Jan 13 • 7:00am – 10:00am Bird Walk – Meet at VCHT/FCHV Sat Jan 17 • 5:00pm – 6:30pm VCHT Speaker’s series: Jessica Rivera, paleobiologist - coprolyte studies Vieques - ancient indigenous culture Thurs Jan 22 • 9:00am – 12:00pm Playa Grande tour – meet at VCHT/FCHV Sat Jan 24 • 5:00pm – 6:30pm VCHT Speaker’s series - Jorge Fernández Porto - Mangroves Thu Jan 29 • 9:00am – 1:00pm House Tour – meet at VCHT/FCHV Sat Jan 31 • 5:00pm6:30pm VCHT Speaker’s series - Lirio Márquez D’Acunti - Bio Bay erosion control Project

Sat Jan 31 • Conuco Noches de Cultura, Dinner and Show-ceramist and architect Jaime Suarez will collaborate in a ballet show with Mauro Youth Ballet Company. Seatings at 6:00 & 8:00. Call for reservations. 787-741-2500 Tues Feb 1o • Vieques Concert Society Latin Jazz with Edgart Abraham, W Retreat & Spa, 7pm, $75 tickets available at Funky Beehive and W Retreat & Spa

67

SOUTH SHORE BEACHES PUBLIC BEACHES * -GATE $2 ........................................................

SUNBAY* Accessible by the gated entrance off 997, Sunbay is a one mile stretch of beach. Sunbay has lifeguards and bathhouse.

The entrance is 5 miles from Isabel II and 0.7 miles from Esperanza (the Malecon). There is a $2 entrance fee. ........................................................

MEDIA LUNA* Enter the gated en-

trance off 997. Follow the dirt road at the end of Sunbay and travel 0.6 more miles to Media Luna. Great for small children, Media Luna is shallow. You can walk 30 ft out into the water and still be in waist deep water. Also, for a free “spa experience,” enjoy an exfoliation from the silky, fine sand. ........................................................

you can also park at Media Luna and walk to Navío. Go into the cave on the left side of the beach (if facing the water) for an excellent photo spot! There’s good surf so bring your boogie board! ........................................................

BEACHES ON THE VIEQUES FISH AND WILDLIFE REFUGE* For reference, Sol Food is parked right in front of the entrance to the FWS Refuge ........................................................

ESPERANZA BEACH To the east

Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to a sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1.5 more miles. No shade except for picnic gazebos in the grass area. Watch out for the sandburs! (see below). Be very careful where you step when you are in the grassy area and kids should wear their shoes down to the sand (or water’s edge).

Note: Only park in the parking lot, and not in the cul-de-sac at the very end, to avoid fines. ........................................................

and west of the fishing piers in Esperanza. ........................................................

PLAYA GRANDE Leave Esperanza on 996 going west and come to a T (rt. 201).

Take a left. Go 1 mile to where the road dead ends and take a left. Follow road to the bottom of the hill. Take a right onto dirt road to find a beach spot. Great beach for walking.

Playa Grande is a turtle nesting beach so be sure to keep dogs on a leash and watch out for roped off nests. ........................................................

PLAYA NEGRA (BLACK SAND BEACH) Leave Esperanza on 996 going

CARACAS* From 997, turn into the FWS

PLAYUELA* From 997, turn into the

FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to the brown sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1 mile to brown sign for Playuela and Tres Palmitas. Turn right and drive 2 minutes to the sign and take the walking path to the left to get to the beach. A short walk and you’re there!

west. Come to T (201) and take left.

Drive 0.1 mile and there will be a guard rail and small pull off on your left. Park here. [It is easier to turn around if you drive 100 feet more to Gallery Galleon and turn around in drive just past entrance to Gallery.] Walk down the path to the dried stream bed and follow to the right.It is about a 20 minute walk to the beach. If it has for the Coast rained, stream bed will actually Sandbur be a small stream. Bring bug very prevelant spray and water. at Caracas and Pata Prieta and painful to step on.

Watch out!

NAVIO* Follow directions to Media Luna but pass Media Luna and take a left at the sign and go another 0.3 miles. The road is extremely rough and 4wd is required but 68

........................................................

EL GALLITO Pass the W on 200 going

......................................................

PATA PRIETA* From 997, turn into

west and look for a parking area and short peninsula on your right. The beach is on the right. Great place to be at sunset! Excellent photo spot! ........................................................

BLAYDIN BEACH OR MOSQUITO BEACH Follow direc-

the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles. Pass turn to Caracas and continue straight on dirt road for aprox 1 mile and turn right at Pata Prieta sign. After 0.2 miles, follow the road to the right to a small parking area with sign. Walk down the (slippery) gravel path to the left of the sign to the beach. Rough road so 4wd is recommended. Bring a beach umbrella as there is little shade! ........................................................

EL PARQUE CEIBA Go west on 201 aproximately 1 mile past the airport and follow the sharp curve to the right.Go down a small hill and the Ceiba tree is on your right. Enjoy the Ceiba tree without climbing, marking or damaging the roots. ........................................................

LA CHIVA* From 997, turn into the

ROMPEOLAS Follow directions to the

LA PLATA* Follow directions to La

. .

FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles to the end of the paved road.

Pass the sign for Caracas and continue straight on the dirt road. La Chiva has numbered spots #1-21. At marker #15 the road splits so stay right if you want to explore La Chiva spots #16-21. ........................................................

Chiva but when road splits take left and go 0.5 miles to reach La Plata. ........................................................

NORTH SHORE BEACHES SEA GLASS BEACH Drive into Isabel II on 200 and make a left onto main street (Calle Muñoz Rivera). Almost at the end of the street you will see an intersection with a church on your right. Make a left here and at the next intersection make a right.

Park on the street (not in the yellow!) and walk to the left of the gazebo down a path to the beach. .............................

Ceiba tree but pass the Ceiba and continue on the main road to the left.Take the next right at the empty concrete structure with parking lot and this road will take you to the pier. Rompeolas pier is 1 mile long so it is great for beginning joggers or walkers! Great snorkeling on the left side of the pier.

tions to the pier but right before going out onto the pier there is a small sandy road to the left that leads to a shallow beach. There are lots of starfish here so be very careful where you step! ........................................................

PUNTA ARENAS Follow directions to Rompeolas but go past turn for pier and drive aproximately 2 miles. You will come to a sign that says you are entering FWS Refuge. Drive 1 mile and come to a T / there are spots to the left and to the right with the best snorkeling to your left. Much of Punta Arenas has eroded away so, in many places, there is not a beach to sit on until further down on the right. No-see-ums tend to come out in the afternoon so make it a morning excursion and bring your bug spray! ........................................................

BUNKERS To see the hidden Navy bunkers follow directions to Rompeolas but keep straight past the turn for pier. Drive 2 miles and take the second paved road to the left. This road is a short loop that will bring you back to the same road.

IF YOU DON’T HAVE TIME TO EXPLORE THEM ALL, THESE ARE INSIDER FAVORITES!

LA CHATA Drive by the ferry on your left and go up the steep hill to the right of El Yaté Bar. Go by the lighthouse on your left and take the next right down a steep little hill. Curve to your left and follow along this shoreline road. Pass La Lanchita on left and drive aproximately 0.35 miles to a left turn onto a small dirt drive with two palms and large rocks at the end. La Chata! Keep your eyes open for sea glass. Many people come here to exercise their horse. Don’t be surprised if you are swimming with horses! ........................................................

Fill Up or Top Off! During high season [Thanksgiving through Easter] and holidays the two gas stations on the island routinely run out of gas. The gas trucks come on the ferry so it can be a long wait if you run out, sometimes up to 45 minutes! So if the lines at the station are not long, stop in. When it is busy the lines form in one direction only and sometimes go around the block. So if you see an empty spot at the pump, before pulling in, check to see if there is a line coming from the opposite direction. Go with cash, they don’t take debit or credit cards.

A Twist or a Tap If your car won’t start when leaving the beach, before panicking, first check your battery cable connections. On rough roads they tend to bounce and loosen.

Tighten them up or give them a tap and try again!

Fix a Flat Pick one of these up at any convenience store or gas station on the island and save yourself a lot of trouble.

Flats happen and usually not in the most convenient places.

Just connect, inflate and go! It will only seal temporarily so call your rental company for directions on where to go to get it fixed.

PATA PRIETA

Leave No Trace Remember to leave the beach just as you found it. If you or your children dig holes or make sand castles, level the sand before you go. Many beaches are turtle nesting beaches and baby sea turtles can get stuck in a hole or diverted by sand mounds on their way to the ocean.

69

Vieques

lat 18.1263 long 65.4401

Isabel II Rompeolas

FERRY GAS / ATM POLICE GAS / ATM

AIRPORT

Punta Arenas

US FISH

Bunkers

Pu Mosquito /

Esperanza

Bioluminescent

Sunbay

Playa Grande Cayo Afuera

Cayo de

Media Navío Luna

VIEQUES

4 miles

Isabel II (locals refer to as “town”)

Esperanza 21 miles

ACCOMODATIONS / VACATION RENTALS ..................................

ACCOMODATIONS A1 Blue Horizon Boutique Resort A2 Bravo Beach Hotel (BBH) A3 Casa La Lanchita A4 Crow’s Nest A5 El Blok A6 Flamboyan Guesthouse A7 Hacienda Tamarindo A8 Hectors by the Sea A9 Hix Island House A10 La Finca Caribe A11 Malecon House / Boutique A12 Sea Gate Hotel A13 Trade Winds and gift shop A14 Villa Coral A15 W Vieques ..................................

VACATION RENTAL HOUSES A16 Bravos Beach Cottages A17 Casa Angular A18 Casa Colores A19 Cookies Paradise A20 El Cerro A21 Hilltop Retreat Apartment A22 Villa Uno ..................................

REAL ESTATE A23 Bravos Boyz A24 Island Real Estate A25 Rainbow Realty A26 Vieques Realty & Rentals

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ART GALLERIES / MUSEUMS / PHOTOGRAPHY ..................................

ART GALLERIES / MUSEUMS B1 Fuerte Conde Mirasol B2 Gallery Galleon B3 Siddhia Hutchinson Gallery B4 Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust ..................................

PHOTOGRAPHY B5 Jennifer Teeter B6 River Photography AIR / CAR ..................................

AIRLINES C1 Cape Air C2 Vieques Air Link ..................................

CAR RENTAL C3 Avis C4 Chepito’s C5 Island Car Rental C6 Island Jeep Rental C7 Maritza’s C8 Vieques Car Rental ..................................

CONSTRUCTION ..................................

D1 Architecto, Stanley Hutchinson D2 EDK Design Services D3 Navarro Construction D4 Paul Lutton, Arquitecto D5 Vieques Locksmith RECREATION ..................................

BIO BAY / SNORKELING E1 Abe’s Snorkeling & BioBay E2 Island Adventures E3 JAK Water Sports E4 Taino Aqua Adventures ..................................

SAILING E5 AHOY Vieques E6 Caribbean Lady E7 Fin Time Adventures E8 LittleBoat Sailing E9 Vieques Classic Charter E10 Vieques Island Powercat ..................................

PADDLEBOARD E11 SUP StandUp Paddle E12 Vieques Paddleboarding ..................................

SURF E13 Playa Voltios E14 Vieques Surf School ..................................

SCUBA E15 Isla Nena Scuba

HORSEBACK RIDING E16 Esperanza Riding Company E17 Sea Gate Horseback Riding E18 Taxi Horses RESTAURANTS & BARS ..................................

F1 Aguacate F2 Arenamar Café F3 Awesome Yogurt & Fruits F4 Belly Buttons F5 Blue Moon @ Blue Horizon F6 Buen Proveco F7 Bilí F8 Carambola @ Blue Horizon F9 Chicken King & Ice Cream F10 Conuco F11 Coquí Fire F12 Duffy’s Esperanza F13 El Sombrero Viejo F14 El Quenepo F15 Izzy’s Bar & Grill F16 José Enrique @ El Blok F17 L’Mirador @ Blue Horizon F18 Mar Azul F19 Next Course F20 Noche F21 Pescaderia/Fish Market F22 Roys Internet Café F23 Smokey’s BBQ & Grill F24 Smoothie Girlz F25 Sorcé W F26 Taverna F27 Tin Box F28 Trade Winds F29 W Café

SHOPPING ..................................

G1 Chepitos Video G2 Funky Beehive G3 MamaPlaya Himalaya G4 Toda La Casa / Flores G5 Playa Voltios G6 Vieques Flowers and Gifts G7 Vieques Bath & Botanica G8 Woodstock WEDDING PLANNERS ..................................

H1 MarryMe Vieques H2 Weddings in Vieques YOGA / MASSAGE ..................................

J1 Blu Hoku J2 Jennifer @ Hix J3 Away Spa (W) J4 Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman

HOSPITAL FIRE DEPARTMENT

RESTRICTED AREA

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La Plata

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Population (in 2010) Total 9,301

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Vieques nickname “Isla Nena” Little Girl Island

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Puerto Rico does not observe daylight savings time

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For A List Of Our Holiday Special Event Menu’s Visit ViequesInsider.com/Events Opens Daily for :

An Island Restaurant

Breakfast 7:00am to 12:00pm Lunch 12:00pm to 3:00pm Dinner 3:00pm to 10:00pm Blue Moon Bar & Grill

An Island Rendezvous

Opens Daily from.

9:00am to 11:00pm

Holiday Special Events: 4th of July Labor day Columbus day Thanksgiving

Ocean Front Barefoot Elegance

L'Mirador Opens Fridays and Saturdays From 4:00pm to 11:00pm Sundays From 1:00pm to 9:00pm

If It’s The Only Thing You Do. . .

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You’ Have Not Seen Vieques Till You've Come To The Blue

The TripAdvisor Recommended Boutique Resort

Enjoy The Leeward Side Of Vieques...

Rd 996 Km. 4.3... 1 Kilometer Past Esperanza 787.741.3318 BlueHorizonBoutiqueResort.com 73