Vieques Insider Winter Issue 2021/22 by kellyt

D E C / JA N / F E B • 2 02 1 /2 2 vol. 4 issue 1 • www.viequesinsider.com info@viequesinsider.com

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T H E G U I TA R LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER

We’re back! The Vieques Insider Winter issue is the first that we’ve published in four years and, wow, what a journey it has been. I sometimes tell my daughter that living your life is like owning a guitar. You can have a guitar that sits neglected in the closet, or you can practice it every day, play and experiment with it and, over time, learn to make beautiful music and a sound that defines you. Mind you, I am not a musician and I don’t own a guitar, but I do dabble in life and can use the music analogy to tell you where we‘ve been for the last four years. Starting a nonprofit on the night of Hurricane Maria and responding to the success of fundraising thrust me into unfamiliar territory. It was like I suddenly stumbled onto a brightly lit stage in front of a packed house, blinking, a guitar in my hands and without a lick of skill or knowledge of how to play it-only a desire to be there to help. Thankfully, it didn’t matter because friends, family, community members and organizations stepped up, bringing their own talents, skills and sheer desire to help onto the stage with me. The people of Vieques showed that we are stronger together. There seemed to be a shift to selflessness, present ever since and throughout the following hardships of 7 months of no power mixed with political upheaval, earthquakes and a pandemic. A deeper, holistic look at that shift emerges from the pages of this issue. It’s an awareness of responsibility and adapting to new roles in order to protect our community and our earth. A sacred unspoken pact to protect one another by adjusting our lives, bonded together as a community to mitigate the risk of a pandemic. The sheer will to reach deep inside and find the strength and perseverance to pursue a dream when thrown off course again and again. Nature bounces back, but can sometimes use a little nurturing, so our roles are in constant revision based on the needs of all. I have emerged as a different person, but not without help. I still don’t know how to play the guitar, but I know enough to practice at life every day and have a great appreciation of the harmony created when devoted people come together for a purpose. On Vieques, I saw a collective shift, an awareness of the needs of others above oneself, so I am filled with hope. Thank you ViequesLove family and my own, for bringing your talents to the stage and for continuing to make beautiful music that resonates within me. I’m grateful to be publishing Vieques Insider again because it means that the island is ready. And once again, people showed up to play. The writers, photographers, student designer, editors and printer all came back to the stage of Vieques Insider. We’re back!

Kelly Thompson

EDITOR, PUBLISHER

KELLY THOMPSON

ASSISTANT EDITOR

AMY GORDON

ASSISTANT EDITOR

TOM O’GRADY JR.

WEB MASTER

MICHELLE PHILLIPS

ART DIRECTION / DESIGN

KELLY THOMPSON

DESIGN INTERN

KARILIS MORALES

PRINTER

IMPRESSIONS ASSOCIATES

787.435.3172

WWW.VIEQUESINSIDER.COM info@viequesinsider.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Daphne Vosberg Aldana is a long-time resident of Vieques, midwife and writer. She is the founder of Komadrona Birth & Bienestar and co-founder of Vieques Voices spoken-word and open mic. Daphne finds continuous inspiration through her work accompanying mamas and babies through the childbearing cycle, and the unique experiences island life provides. Amy Gordon is a freelance travel writer who doesn’t feel quite right without a tan. Her articles have appeared in outlets including Harper Traveler, Where Traveler, BizBash and Slow Living. Jahzara Heredia is a mother, artist and farmer. She is co-founder of the agricultural project JahFlor. She has a BA in anthropology from Haverford College and has conducted grant-supported research on sustainable agriculture and community resilience in Iowa (2013), Havana, Cuba (2014) and Puerto Rico (2017).

Put your thinkin’ cap on! If you have ideas for stories please share them with us! Email kelly@viequesinsider.com

Tom Kirkbright, a retired USCG Captain and his wife Caroline first set foot on Vieques in 2004. They fell in love with its people, beaches and charm. They bought a house and moved from NJ to enjoy the island life and spend time “On The Water”. Tom O’Grady Jr. is a Philadelphia-born author, freelance writer and editor with literature and writing degrees from Temple University (B.A.) and Rutgers University (M.A.). Tom has five entertaining novels available in print and digital formats (Amazon), and writes and edits training, marketing, advertising and magazine content online. He currently resides in Northeast Florida. Karilis Morales is the newest member of our artistic team. Kari is currently pursuing a bachelor’s degree in graphic design and plastic art at Universidad Interamericana de PR. Welcome Kari! Cover Artist Daniel Fernández is a Puerto Rican born cinematographer and photographer who lives on Vieques with his wife, (cover model) Yeisha. His work has taken him to many corners of the planet including Antarctica, shooting films, documentaries and music videos and his work has been shown at Sundance, South by Southwest, Cannes, Los Angeles Film Festival and more. Daniel’s work on At the Edge of the World was awarded best documentary cinematography by the late Haskell Wexler. In all of his free time he helps Yeisha manage two businesses on Vieques, Quiñones Electronics and Muebleria Quiñones as well as his own Puerto Rican History audio tour business www.facebook.com/dannycameras instagram @dfernandezcine

The must-have guidebook for first-time visitors and long-time locals. Buy yours today on Amazon or in shops all over Vieques and Puerto Rico. Or order a signed copy at www.100thingspuertorico.com.

Komadrona Birth & Bienestar, established in 2021, provides holistic and personalized preconception, prenatal, birth, and postpartum care on Vieques and surrounding islands. We believe every family deserves access to comprehensive maternity services regardless of socioeconomic barriers. Komadrona works to uphold the principles of the Midwives Model of Care, Human Rights in Childbirth, informed choice, and bodily autonomy. To support our endeavors FB/ IG: @komdronamidwifery / Contact: Daphne Vosberg Aldana, ASM, CPM, LM (919) 244-1537 komadronamidwifery@gmail.com

OOOPS -WE MAY HAVE MISSED SOMETHING!

If it was you, we are truly sorry. If a phone number needs correcting or there is information that could help make our publication more informative, please let us know! Contact kelly@viequesinsider.com.

The future looks bright. The next issue of Vieques Insider is the March-May issue. If you are interested in advertising email kelly@viequesinsider.com 7

www.jakwatersports.com jakwatersp@hotmail.com 8

Winter...

KELLY THOMPSON

GOOD TO KNOW Malecon - Esplanade or boardwalk (oceanfront Esperanza)

Population: approx 9,000

Highest Point - Monte Pirata (Pirate’s Hill) approx 990 feet above sea level

Time Zone AST year round (PR does not observe daylight savings time)

Isabel II (locals refer to as “town”)

VIEQUES Esperanza 21 miles

5 miles

Vieques nickname “Isla Neña” Little Girl Island

it’s not so bad. Welcome to winter, where, in Vieques, things slow down and heat up! If you are visiting for the first time – Bienvenidos (welcome)! Vieques moves at a different pace than many parts of the world. You are now on “island time” and here, people really do stop to smell the ylang ylang. Time is determined by the movement of life, not the hands of a clock. Moments are presented as gifts... moments to practice being, breathing, reflecting, enjoying! Here, an ever-present sun awakens you with a rooster’s crow, the smell of fresh bread, and the taste of amazing coffee. The sky-searing colors of El Sol’s evening descent begins a new adventure filled with tropical libations, exotic cuisine, Latin rhythms and nature’s call of the coquí. Allow yourself to unplug and unwind, to set aside that ticking clock and tap into the flow of a unique energy that is Isla Nena. Sun, sea, time and tide. It is for you to decide. 11

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COVID

T R AV E L R E Q U I R E M E N T S • S U B J E C T T O C H A N G E Everyone traveling to Puerto Rico must complete a travel declaration form. Access the online form at www.travelsafe.pr.gov.

VQS 101

Everyone who is not fully vaccinated against COVID-19 with the Moderna, Pfizer or Janssen vaccines must provide evidence of a negative molecular or antigen test for COVID-19 performed within the 72-hour period prior to your arrival to Puerto Rico. Any passenger arriving without a PCR test result for COVID-19 must provide evidence that a test was performed within 48 hours of arrival. [See www.travelsafe.pr.gov for current guidelines on travel to and from Puerto Rico.] Masks are required at all establishments in Puerto Rico and on Vieques. Remember that Vieques does not have a hospital. We protect each other by wearing a mask, washing hands often and social distancing. Please do your part to keep our community safe. If you are experiencing Covid symptoms while visiting Vieques, please call the Vieques Covid Hotline (787)340-3837. GETTING HERE

FLIGHT OR FERRY

AIRPORTS San Juan International Isla Grande-15 min taxi ride from SJU Ceiba-One hour+ taxi ride from SJU

SJU San Juan International SIG Isla Grande Airport VQS Ferry RVR Ceiba Airport

VQS Vieques Airport

Ceiba Ferry Port

Puerto Rico Fly from San Juan International (SJU) to VQS 30 minute flight, prices range www.capeair.com • www.viequesairlink.com

Ferry from Ceiba to Vieques Requires 1 hour 15 min taxi ride from San Juan International (SJU) to Ceiba (aprox. $110) Vans can seat up to 10 people. Ferry ticket $2 or you can purchase two days ahead of time on www. puertoricoferry.com with additional fees. Be prepared to wait or possibly be bumped if ferry is full! Vieques residents are seated first. [It is not uncommon for the ferry to be late] www.puertoricoferry.com

Fly from Isla Grande Airport (SIG) to VQS 17 minute flight, 10 minute cab ride from SJU-approx. www.viequesairlink.com Fly from Ceiba Airport (RVR) to VQS 7 minute flight, approx 1hr+ cab ride from San Juan to Ceiba $100 trip (not per person) www.viequesairlink.com Charter Flights to Vieques www.airflamenco.net • www.viequesairlink.com • Air Margarita • Air Flamenco • Air Sunshine • Tradewind Airlines www.taxiaereopr.travel • www.mnaviation.com

Arriving at San Juan International Airport Be prepared to show your travel declaration form and vaccination card when leaving baggage claim. www.travelsafe.pr.gov Publico Vans are located outside baggage claim at SJU and can seat up to 10-12 people. They are managed by Puerto Rico Tourism and you will be supplied an invoice for your trip before getting in the van. Tips are accepted.

W W W .V I E Q U E S I N S I D E R . C O M J Take warm clothes on the ferry! It’s very cold when the AC is on. J Always lock up when leaving your accomodations. J Make reservations for restaurants and activities.

J Don’t lock your car at the beach Leave it open with nothing of value in it. J If you hire a publico to take you to the beaches arrange a pick up time before they drive off because cell service may not be available.

J Turn off the AC when you leave your hotel or guesthouse for the day. The condensation will attract mosquitos. J Some airlines charge $1 per pound for luggage over 25 pounds J Remember to tip!

J Marine Traffic App displays near real-time positions of ships and ferries worldwide. Check if the ferry has left Ceiba or Vieques and where it is en route! J 1 Gallon = 3.78541 liters 13

Serenity Point Yoga

Marion Fischer, RN, CNM serenitypointyoga@gmail.com

Yoga classes are by donation for Summer ArtCamp with Sandra Reyes: If you would like to donate but can’t come to a yoga class, make checks out to ART CAMP. c/o Marion Fischer PO 869, Vieques, Puerto Rico 00765 Venmo: Marion-Fischer-1 (white horse profile) Paypal: info@gallerygalleon.com

Private yoga & reiki by appt. Calle Monte Santo Playa & 201. Kripalu certified E-RYT 500 Yoga Alliance practitioner. Kyoto School of Reiki. 14

Check facebook or instagram for schedule and directions. Serenity Point Yoga & Visionary Arts Instagram @serenitypointyogavqs

GETTING AROUND

BOOK EARLY FILL UP OR TOP OFF!

J PUBLICOS/PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION/TAXIS: Publicos are marked with the letters TC for transportacion collectiva (Collective Transportation) meaning that they can pick up other passengers along the route. Look for a van with wording on the side or windshield. J CAR/SCOOTER/UTV/GOLF CART RENTAL: There are many rental car companies all within the same price range. Most offer Jeeps or SUVs to get you to the most remote beaches, but just because it’s 4wd doesn’t mean you can’t get stuck. Vieques has some world class potholes that are surprisingly deep. When parking at the beach don’t leave valuables in the car and leave the car unlocked. At Sunbay do not park on the ocean side of the road only in the grass on the opposite side. When returning cars you will be charged for wet seats so think twice about leaving the top off the jeep. Make sure you rent from a licensed car rental company. Book early!

NO ESTACIONAR = NO PARKING YELLOW CURB = NO PARKING J BIKE RENTAL: Bikes can be rented by the hour or day. If you plan on using a bike as transportation make sure you research mileage on Google maps. Also, be aware that most beach roads are dirt, gravel or sand with some steep inclines. Hot, dusty roads; always have water!

During high season [Thanksgiving through Easter] the two gas stations on the island routinely run out of gas. The gas trucks come on the ferry so it can be a long wait if you run out. If the lines at the station are not long, fill up! FIX A FLAT

Pick one of these up at any convenience store or gas station on the island and save yourself a lot of trouble. Just connect to your flat tire, inflate and go! It will only seal temporarily so call your rental company for directions on where to go to get it fixed. A TWIST OR A TAP

If your car won’t start when leaving the beach, before panicking, first check your battery cable connections. On rough roads they tend to bounce and loosen. Tighten them up, give them a tap and try again!

ABOUT TOWN

GETTING YOUR BEARINGS SOUTH SIDE ESPERANZA

Esperanza, on the southern coast, boasts the deep aqua and crystal clear waters of the Caribbean Sea, gently lapping along a picturesque walkway known as the Malecón. Esperanza offers a walkable array of restaurants, museums, stores, piers, boating and social interaction. Sundays are full of music, dominos, and libations. Extend your pleasure east or west along the Caribbean shore to discover art, black sand, roadside food experiences and an endless string of unique beaches so visually outrageous you’ll be at a loss for words and pictures. NORTH SIDE ISABEL II

Bordered by the wavy blue of the Atlantic, the north side offers a loosely organized configuration of main and side streets, churches, stores, bars, restaurants, shops and municipal offices, all loosely draped around the Plaza, a community square for great gatherings all year round. Charming and colorful, Isabel II ("town" or "el pueblo" to the residents) is named after the first reigning female monarch of Spain. Sitting like a decorated cake high above the town is the Fortin Conde de Mirasol, the last Spanish fort built in the Americas.

Find out what’s happening on Vieques at www.viequesinsider.com 15

milestones

a bit of history Want to know a bit more about Vieques? Here’s a brief timeline to whet the appetite of the history buff in you.

J 2145 BCE Archeological

findings in Puerto Ferro date back to Pre-Arawak period.

Puerto Rico. French settlers develop Vieques’ agrarian economy.

J 1100 CE Taino culture

J 1816 Simón

abounds in Esperanza.

Bolivar, Latin America’s Great Liberator, comes to Vieques.

J 1898 Spanish-American

J 1961 The film

War. Treaty of Paris gives United States temporary control of Cuba and ownership of Puerto Rico, Guam and the Philippine islands.

Lord of the Flies is shot in Vieques.

J 1822 The Spanish

J 1493 Columbus lands on

the south side of Borinquen (now Puerto Rico) and claims it for Spain. J 1508 Ponce de León

María Le Guillou, a French emigre, is appointed military governor of Vieques.

initiates colonization of Puerto Rico.

J 1844 The municipal-

J 1514 Taíno Chiefs Yaurei-

bo and Cacimar from Bieke fight Spanish forces on the east side of Puerto Rico. J 1683 British settlers from

Anguilla invade Vieques. Danish forces from St. Thomas drive invaders away. J 1698 Scottish settlers

from Nevis, Anguilla and Tortola invade Vieques. Spanish forces drive invaders away. J 1718 British settlers from

Anguilla come to Vieques to establish a colony on two different occasions. Both times Spanish forces drive invaders away. J 1811 The Spanish coloni-

zation of Vieques begins. J 1815 Royal Decree of

Graces allows other Europeans who swear loyalty to the Spanish Crown to remain in 16

J 1899

Puerto Ferro lighthouse (south side) is completed.

ity of Vieques is formally established; construction of original Catholic Church gets underway.

J 1917 Jones Act grants

J 1845 Construction of

powerful earthquake causes major structural damages to the Puerto Ferro lighthouse. The lighthouse is closed.

Fortín Conde de Mirasol (the Fort) begins.

Gonzalez-Duriex provides air transportation to Vieques and registers his enterprise as Vieques Air Link. J 1976 Water from El

commence construction of a town, eventually called Punta Mulas (Isabel II today), on the north side of the island. J 1832 Teófilo José Jaime

J 1965 Osvaldo “Val”

United States Citizenship to all Puerto Ricans.

Yunque (Puerto Rico’s rain forest) via underwater pipeline becomes the main water supply for Vieques. J 1977 - 1988 “Vieques

Pony Express”— Ventura Camacho Dávila is hired by the post office to initiate island-wide delivery of mail. For the next 11 years, Ventura Camacho does his job on horseback.

J 1925 On March 19, a

J 1863 Britain formally

renounces all claims to Vieques. J 1978 “Fishermen’s War”:

J 1873 Abolition of slavery

in Puerto Rico (March 22, 1873); Manuel E. Benitez is elected Vieques’ first mayor when municipalities are extended the right to vote. J 1893 All Saints Church

is officially consecrated. Vieques and Ponce were the first places in Puerto Rico under Spanish Monarchy allowed to set up non-Catholic churches. J 1896 Punta Mulas

lighthouse (north side) is completed.

J 1941-49 The United

States Navy expropriates nearly two thirds of Vieques for military maneuvers. J 1948 Luis Muñoz Marín

An international NATO backed training military exercise on Vieques is stopped by fishermen who position themselves in the direct line of fire. J 1989 Hugo, since up-

graded to a category 5 hurricane, devastates Vieques.

becomes 1st democratically elected governor of Puerto Rico.

J 1991 Restoration of

J 1952 Commonwealth of

J 1999 David Sanes is

Puerto Rico is established on July 25.

Fortín Conde de Mirasol is completed. killed by a bomb from U.S. Navy military exercises. The

tragic death serves as the catalyst for a peace protest that galvanizes all of Puerto Rico. The ‘Paz Para Vieques’ movement garners international support and becomes instrumental in pressuring the United States Navy to end military exercises on the island. J 2001 Vieques

National Wildlife Refuge is established (3,100 acres on the western end of Vieques). J 2003 U.S. Navy leaves

Vieques; 14,573 acres of land on the east end are added to the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. The Refuge is operated under the U.S. Department of Interior and becomes the largest wildlife refuge in the Caribbean.

J 2011 White House report

issued by the Vieques Task Force recommends military clean-up, a solid waste strategy, health care, renewable energy, protection of the BioBay and “green” tourism. J 2012 Vieques Concert

Society (VCS), in partnership with Jorge Camacho, starts the Vieques Rondalla. JUNTOS begins Humane Education in schools. J 2016 VCHT signs an agree-

ment with the Department of Environmental and Natural Resources to co-manage the Mosquito nature reserve.

J 2006 Montessori Educa-

tion arrives in Vieques; Guinness World Records names Mosquito Bay the brightest Bio-bay in the world; MANTA, the educational outreach program of the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (VCHT) wins EPA’s highest award two years in a row. J 2007 Comunidad Verde

Vieques is established. This is the first re-settlement inside former NAVY land. J 2009 First Bio-luminescent

Symposium in Puerto Rico is held in Vieques and hosted by the VCHT.

J 2019

The Covid-19 pandemic magnifies the island’s humanitarian crisis after the devastation of Hurricane Maria and several earthquakes. Fortunately, response to the virus is rapid and thorough and controls the spread. J 2019-20

Puerto Rico experiences an unprecedented series of shock swarms. Over 9,000 earthquakes and aftershocks damage thousands of homes and buildings and closes schools. Today

At press time, Puerto Rico and Vieques are in a steady decline of Covid-19 cases and deaths. Over 80% of the residents are vaccinated.

J 2005 U.S. Congress

designates parts of Vieques as a Superfund.

town plaza to signify the need to rebuild. They remain in front of the municipal offices.

Like many territories and cultures, Vieques has struggled to maintain its way of life. The many recorded histories of that struggle are, like the people of Vieques and Puerto Rico, filled with passion and persistence, and no shortage of perspectives. Vieques Insider endeavors to provide as accurate a timeline of that history as is available through our research, while taking into consideration the disagreements and discrepancies that exist among historians. Our timeline is in no way a comprehensive account, only a brief outline. We encourage our readers seeking a greater knowledge of Vieques to access all accounts of its history. To discover more about Vieques locally, please visit El Fortín Conde Mirasol and the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust.

J 2017

Hurricane Maria devastates Puerto Rico and Vieques with Category 5-force winds. Communication to the outside world is severed, and it takes 7 months to restore power. Numerous on- and off-island organizations form to provide help. J 2019 The death of

13-year old Jai Ventura sparks island-wide grief and a peaceful protest (justiceparajai) about the Vieques hospital. Destroyed in Hurricane Maria, the hospital or CDT (Center for Diagnoses and Treatment) has not been rebuilt. Residents took signed cinderblocks to the

OPERATION PORTREX

In 1950 a simulated attack on Blue Beach was staged by a joint effort of Army, Navy, Air Force and Marine forces. The “D-Day”-like maneuvers took two months of preparation by land forces charged with protecting the beach and inland areas from the “assault”. As a result the topography off La Chiva was substantially altered. Bulldozers scraped the land, digging deep anti-tank trenches and felling palm trees and bushes. Much of the thorny growth, mixed with barbed wire, was wrapped around the palm trunks as defensive barriers. A camouflaged, deeply-dug shelter for 50 caliber machine guns was also placed on the cayo off Blue Beach to disrupt the beach landing from behind.

Sources: 1. Museo de la Memoria Histórica de Vieques— Archival at Fortín Conde de Mirasol 2. Inhabiting Isla Nena 1514-2003: Island Narrations, Imperial Dramas, and Vieques, Puerto Rico by Marie Cruz Soto 3. Anguillian Settlements of Vieques: The More Things Change, The More They Remain the Same!; a lecture by Timothy Hodges 4. Vieques Timeline: ongoing history research by Robert Marino 5. Robert Rabin, Director of Fortín Conde de Mirasol 6. Will Colón, Musician and keeper of our stories 17

VIEQUES BEACHES

If it’s raining on one side of the island... just move to the other.

79° F AVERAGE TEMP.

decisions, decisions

Seaglass Beach Rompeolas Mosquito Pier Blaydin

Playa el Gallito Isabel II (town) Airport

El Parque de la Ceiba

Punta Arenas

Puerto Ferro Site

Bunkers

Esperanza Mt Pirata 984 ft. Playa Grande

SOUTH SHORE BEACHES

........................................................ SUNBAY Accessible by the gated entrance off 997, Sunbay is a one mile stretch of beach. Sunbay has lifeguards and bathhouse. The entrance is 5 miles from Isabel II and 0.7 miles from Esperanza (the Malecon). There is an entrance fee of $2$4 depending on time of year. ........................................................ MEDIA LUNA Enter the gated entrance off 997 at Sunbay. Follow the dirt road at the end of Sunbay and travel 0.6 more miles to Media Luna. Great for small children, Media Luna is shallow. You can walk 30 ft out into the water and still be in waist deep water. Also, for a free “spa experience,” enjoy an exfoliation from the silky, fine sand. ........................................................

NAVIO Follow directions to Media Luna

but pass Media Luna and take a left at the sign and go another 0.3 miles. The road is extremely rough and 4wd is sometimesrequired but you can also park at Media Luna and walk to Navío. Go into the cave on the left side of the beach (if facing the water) for an excellent photo spot! There’s good surf so bring your boogie board! 18

ESPERANZA BEACH To the east and west

of the fishing piers in Esperanza. ........................................................ PLAYA GRANDE Leave Esperanza on 996 going west and come to a T (rt. 201). Take a left. Go 1 mile to where the road dead ends and take a left. Follow road to the bottom of the hill. Take a right onto dirt road to find a beach spot. Great beach for walking. Playa Grande is a turtle nesting beach so be sure to keep dogs on a leash and watch out for roped off nests. ........................................................ PLAYA NEGRA (BLACK SAND BEACH)

Leave Esperanza on 996 going west. Come to T (201) and take left. Drive 0.1 mile and there will be a guard rail and small pull off on your left. Park here. [It is easier to turn around if you drive 100 feet more to Gallery Galleon and turn around in drive just past entrance to Gallery.] Walk down the path to the dried stream bed and follow to the right.It is about a 20 for the minute walk to the Coast beach. If it has rained, Sandbur - very stream bed will actuprevelant at ally be a small stream. Caracas Bring bug spray and and Pata water. Prieta and

Watch out!

painful to step on.

Ferry

Playa Negra

Playa Esperanza Cayo de Afuera

Puerto Ferro

Puerto Mosquito BioBay

Sunbay

Navio Cayo de Tierra

VIEQUES FISH AND WILDLIFE REFUGE*

Media Luna

........................................................ CARACAS* From 997, turn into the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to a sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1.5 more miles. No shade except for picnic gazebos in the grass area. Watch out for the sandburs! (see below). Be very careful where you step when you are in the grassy area and kids should wear their shoes down to the sand (or water’s edge). Note: Only park in the parking lot, and not in the cul-de-sac at the very end, to avoid fines. ........................................................ PLAYUELA* From 997, turn into the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck. Go aprox 2 miles to the brown sign for Caracas. Turn right and go aprox 1 mile to brown sign for Playuela and Tres Palmitas. Turn right and drive 2 minutes to the sign and take the walking path to the left to get to the beach. A short walk and you’re there! ........................................................ PATA PRIETA* From 997, turn into the FWS Refuge at the Sol Food truck and go aprox 2 miles. Pass turn to Caracas and continue straight on dirt road for aprox 1 mile and turn right at Pata Prieta sign. After 0.2 miles, follow the road to the right to a small parking area with sign. Walk down the (slippery) gravel path to the left of the sign to the beach. Rough road so 4wd is recommended. Bring a beach umbrella as there is little shade!

La Chata

Bastimento

La Platita La Plata

Bahia Tapón Playuela Pata Tres Prieta Caracas Palmitas

La Chiva

Escondida

Did you know? Vieques is the most important green sea turtle nesting site in all of Puerto Rico, with the most used nesting beaches.

LA CHIVA* From 997, turn into the

FWS Refuge and go aprox 2 miles to the end of the paved road. Pass the sign for Caracas and continue straight on the dirt road. La Chiva has numbered spots #1-21. At marker #13 the road splits so stay right if you want to explore La Chiva spots #16-21. ........................................................ LA PLATA* Follow directions to La Chiva but when road splits take left and go 0.5 miles to reach La Plata. La Platita is the little neighboring beach. ........................................................

NORTH SHORE BEACHES SEA GLASS BEACH Drive into Isabel II on

200 and make a left onto main street (Calle Muñoz Rivera). Almost at the end of the street you will see an intersection with a church on your right. Make a left here and at the next intersection make a right. Park on the street (not in the yellow!) and walk to the left of the gazebo down a path to the beach. ........................................................ LA CHATA Drive by the ferry on your left and go up the steep hill to the right of El Yaté Bar. Go by the lighthouse on your left and take the next right down a steep little hill. Curve to your left and follow along this shoreline road. Pass La Lanchita on left and drive aproximately 0.35 miles to a left turn onto a small dirt drive with two palms and large rocks at the end. La Chata! Keep your eyes open for sea glass. Don’t be surprised if you are swimming with horses! Many people come here to exercise them.

EL GALLITO Pass the W on 200 going west

and look for a parking area and short peninsula on your right. The beach is on the right. Great place to be at sunset! ........................................................ EL PARQUE CEIBA Go west on 201 approximatelyg 1 mile past the airport and follow the sharp curve to the right. Go down a small hill and the Ceiba tree is on your right. Enjoy the Ceiba tree without climbing, marking or damaging the roots. ........................................................ ROMPEOLAS Follow directions to the Ceiba tree but pass the Ceiba and continue on the main road to the left.Take the next right at the empty concrete structure with parking lot and this road will take you to the pier. Rompeolas pier is 1 mile long so it is great for beginning joggers or walkers! Great snorkeling on the left side of the pier but go with a guide. ........................................................ BLAYDIN BEACH OR MOSQUITO BEACH

Follow directions to the pier but right before going out onto the pier there is a small sandy road to the left that leads to a shallow beach. There are lots of starfish here so be very careful where you step! ........................................................ PUNTA ARENAS Follow directions to Rompeolas but go past turn for pier and drive aproximately 2 miles. You will come to a sign that says you are entering FWS Refuge. Drive 1 mile and come to a T / there are spots to the left and to the right with the best snorkeling to your left. No-see-ums tend to come out in the afternoon so make it a morning excursion and bring your bug spray!

LOVE OUR NATURAL BEACHES? >> Here’s why: Vieques has

the highest number of public beaches of all the municipalities in Puerto Rico. Most people who come to Vieques fall in love with her natural beauty, in particular the gorgeous award-winning beaches. However, most folks don’t realize that the beaches remain natural because they reside within protected lands. A consortium of environmental organizations and government agencies of Puerto Rico and the U.S manage their conservation. The group includes the PR Department of Natural & Environmental Resources, the PR Conservation Trust and the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge.

>> Make every trip to our

beaches a “beach clean up” as a way to contribute to their protection. Take a bag with you everytime you go and do a mini beach clean up before you leave, or as you stroll on the shore. Humans are not always to blame for the trash on the beaches, although, sadly, too often we are. Roaming horses and dogs are often the culprits rustling through trash bins for something to eat. Horses shake the bags until they break and the contents spill on the ground, leaving the bags and other trash to travel with the wind, sometimes ending up on our beautiful beaches.

No-see-ums = sandflies that come out at sunset-and they bite! 19

The best way to see Vieques.

Scenic trail rides that

include Playa Negra, Playa Cocal and the Esperanza Ridge.

787.435.0073

www.esperanzaridingcompany.com www.esperanzaridingcompany.com

Vieques, PR

Come ride or stay with us!

Snorkeling Tours

SeaGate Hotel oﬀers very comfortable lodging at an aﬀordable price!

201-450-8238 concierge@seagatehotel.com facebook.com/seagatehotel WWW.SEAGATEHOTEL.COM

>>> There are two main types of corals; hard and soft. Hard corals build reefs by creating calcium deposits while soft SH OULD B corals do not have a rigEL E id calcium carbonate skeleton and are not reef building.

Every snorkel tour supports our diseased coral treatment initiative.

D i d yo u k n ow ?

787.242.1071

REEF ETIQUETTE DON’T STEP ON IT When snorkeling don’t step on the coral. If you need to fix your mask or rest, roll onto your back, relax and float or tread water with your knees bent.

GO WITH A GUIDE Not only will you see the very best snorkeling sites with a guide but they are determined to keep not only you but the coral and marine life safe from harm.

USE REEF SAFE PRODUCTS Use a sunscreen free of chemical ingredients known to damage and potentially kill coral reefs in the oceans. To date those chemicals are oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene.

KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT Don’t go snorkeling until you are comfortable with your equipment and know that it is working properly. Defog your mask before using with a defogging product or your own spit!

DON’T TOUCH OR TAKE! Coral is actually a very fragile, living animal. Touching it could not only lead to scrapes or stings but also harm the microbiome of the coral. Give all sea life space. Do not chase or try to touch sealife.

LEFT

SNO

www.crystalclearvieques.com

Maritza’s

CAR RENTAL

The company with the newest and largest fleet. And great prices!

UD OF 20 RO

We take pride in your ride.

787-741- 0078 787-500-1666

YEARS

T SERVIC EA

ARS OF GR YE

LARGEST, NEWEST FLEET ON THE ISLAND

maritzascarrental@gmail.com www.maritzascarrental.com

COURTESY VAN SERVICE FLEET JEEPS 4 DOORS 2021 FORD BRONCOS BUDGET FRIENDLY KIA SOULS LOCALLY OWNED & OPERATED

Adventure into the vibrant seas of the Spanish Virgin Islands aboard Vieques' largest, most luxurious motor Yacht Charter. NAUTIMERMAIDCHARTERS.COM

Luxury Coastal Cruises Vieques, PR 754.216.8168

41 foot Bertram Cruiser Local Expertise and Crew Twin 450hp Diesel engines Snorkel Gear, Paddle-board, Clear bottom Kayaks, & rafts included Refreshments & Ample Shade Private Charters Available

Buy Miss Fuzzi’s Book! and help the animals on Vieques.

My book is in English and Spanish!

A true story set in Vieques about a dog rescued from the streets and found a loving family. Miss Fuzzi and her story have become the symbolic voice for all dogs on Vieques living on the streets and struggling to find their forever home. Purchase it for someone in your life and help get other Vieques dogs the care they need. 100% of the proceeds from the sale of the book go to the Vieques Humane Society and Animal Rescue. FOR SALE AT:

Vieques Gifts, Tradewinds Gift Shop, Scallywags, Vieques Emporium, SeaGate Hotel, Vieques Humane Society Animal Rescue Office (rt 200 Santa Maria)

“Paw ”t og ra ph ed by M iss Fuzz y he rs elf !

Miss Fuzzi 22

OR ONLINE @WWW.MISSFUZZI.COM

Hix Island House is more than a hotel, it is an experience.

Hix Island House is a spacious retreat amid Zen-like architectural elegance. A 13-acre open-air natural refuge of native trees, tall grasses, birds and butterflies, with views to the sea, where you’ll be at one with Nature. 787-435-4590 www.hixislandhouse.com

¿CÓMO SE DICE…? HOW DO YOU SAY...?

C E L E B R AT E

Basic Spanish for your visit to Vieques HEATHER KNORR

GREETINGS:

Hola, ¿cómo estás? Buenos días, Buen día Buenas tardes Buenas noches Féliz Navidad Féliz Año Nuevo Buen Provecho

Qué tenga un buen día Hasta pronto Qué Dios le bendiga Hasta luego Adiós Buenas noches

tis’ the Season...

Hi. How are you? Good morning Good afternoon Good evening/night Merry Christmas Happy New Year Enjoy your meal

JOSÉ CARRASQUILLO

FAREWELLS:

Have a nice day See you soon May God bless you See you later Goodbye Goodnight

AROUND TOWN:

Por favor & Gracias Please & thank you ¿Cuánto cuesta…? How much is it…? ¿Aceptan tarjetas de crédito? Do you accept credit cards? Efectivo Cash Me gustaría… I would like… Yo quiero… I want… Yo tengo / Yo no tengo… I have / I don’t have No entiendo. I don’t understand. ¿Dónde está…? Where is…?

DIRECTIONS:

¿Cómo se llega a…? How do I get to…? A la derecha To the right A la izquierda To the left Derecho/recto Straight Sube/baja Go up/go down En la esquina on the corner

As a child the night before Three Kings’ Day, I went out into the field, clipped the greenest leaves of grass, put them inside a shoe box, and then placed the box by my bed so that the horses transporting the Three Kings would have food once they entered the house. The North American counterpart tradition is to leave milk and cookies for Santa, but by late afternoon of December 25th Santa is on his way back to the North Pole. In Latin America and Spain, millions of children still await “el Día de los Reyes Magos”. This is the day children traditionally receive holiday presents in Latin America. For many Christians around the world the holiday season doesn’t officially end until the 12th day of Christmas, also known as the Feast of the Epiphany or Three Kings’ Day. The holiday falls on January 6th and marks the adoration of the baby Jesus by the Three Kings.

Parranda The holidays are a time of celebration and music. Our very own cultural tradition is the Parranda. A Parranda is an un-announced serenade that aims to wake up the recipients (and their immediate neighbors). The recipient of a Parranda is expected to open his/her house, offer holiday food and drink to the parranderos and join the Parranda on the next stop. Many parrandas last into the next morning!

WE A R E H E R E F OR Y OU .

frontdesk@bravosboyz.com www. bravosboyz.com 24

Kevin Cunha

Thom Denton

Broker lic. # 16650

Broker lic. # 16651

c. 787.550.6917

c. 787.550.6913

Lechón Lechón is the name for roast pig that has been cooked long and slow, in many cases overnight. Lechón is to Christmas in Vieques what turkey is to Thanksgiving in the States. The recipe is a simple one: pigs are covered in a marinade of salt, pepper, oregano and “sazón” - a local seasoning made from paprika, coriander, cumin, oregano and garlic. They are then roasted on a spit in a giant concrete propane oven then finished over charcoal to give the meat that old-fashioned flavour. Because of the slow cook the juices stay intact, helping to keep the meat moist and tender. Outside exposure to the coals makes the skin brown and crackly, as unique a treat as the meat itself. The pork is then served with a variety of sides: rice and pigeon peas, pasteles (meat and ground vegetables wrapped in a banana leaf), yuca and yams.

Buen Provecho -

Pasteles

Pasteles are sometimes described as Puerto Rican tamales, the difference being they are made with root vegetables instead of corn. Making them is labor intensive work which is why they are traditionally done during the holiday season. Fortunately, many restaurants here on Vieques serve pasteles around the holidays.

Enjoy your meal!

Coquito Our traditional homemade version of eggnog combines coconut, spices and of course, rum! No holiday festivity would be complete without this delicious, creamy concoction. the easy recipe 2 cans (12 oz. each) Evaporated Milk 1 can (15 oz.) Cream of Coconut 1 can(13.5 oz.) Coconut Milk ½ cup Sweetened Condensed Milk ½ cup white rum (optional) 1 tsp. vanilla extract ½ tsp. ground cinnamon, plus more for garnish, if desired In bowl of blender, add evaporated milk, cream of coconut, coconut milk, sweetened condensed milk, rum (if using), vanilla extract and ground cinnamon. Blend on high until mixture is well combined.Pour coconut mixture into glass bottles or containers. Transfer to refrigerator. Chill until cold. To serve, stir or shake bottle well to combine. Pour coquito into small serving glasses. Garnish with ground cinnamon and cinnamon sticks, if desired.

Take Me Away Tembleque Tembleque, a vegan “custard-like” dessert which is made with a mixture of coconut milk (not a true dairy milk), cornstarch and sugar with a pinch of salt. It is rigorously whisked on a stovetop until thickened. The Spanish name refers to its wiggly, jittery consistency when it is cooled and Try a removed from the mold. Enhanced with a parcharita, the sprinkling of ground cinnamon, it is delipassionate twist cious. Vegans – this is the dessert for you! on a traditional Watch for it on local menus. margarita. Made with parcha of ¡Buen provecho! course!

For us, it’s all about Community…

RESIDENTIAL, COMMERCIAL AND LAND SALES ! LONG TERM AND SEASONAL RENTALS OVER 3 MOS. Office Hours: TUE, WED, AND FRI 9AM-1PM AND BY APPOINTMENT

OFFICE: 787.741.4312 email: rainbowvqs@gmail.com 278 Flamboyan Esperanza https://www.facebook.com/viequesrainbowrealty

www.viequesrainbowrealty.com

Longest Established Brokerage in Vieques! with over 45 years combined experience. It matters! Gustavo Marin, Broker 787.225.5604 (Lic 9905) Lin Wetherby, Ownerwww.viequesrainbowrealty.com Broker 787.380 4990 (Lic 7941)

Boutique hotel across from the beachside boardwalk in the charming seaside village of Esperanza.

939-239-7113

info@maleconhouse.com

www.maleconhouse.com

VEL WI T

WHERE TO RECYCLE

PURPOSE

THIS VIEW COMES WITH 2 UNITS! Two unit home with really excellent views & income potential in Mambiche. Roomy 2 bedroom 1 bath apartment with a low maintenance yard on the main floor. A 1 or 2 bedroom apartment on the second floor w/ balcony & panoramic views of the Atlantic, PR, & the Fort. Some renovations have been done. Updated bathrooms in both units. Rare off street garage parking! Titled. Price Reduced! $175,000

REPURPOSE! Visit the Vieques En Rescate (VER) Thrift Store on the corner of Antonio G Mellado and Muñoz River to find island treasures, new to you! All proceeds go to helping Cancer patients on the island.

n s a y n o t o a s t r a w, b r i

NO WORK NEEDED! Immaculately maintained newer construction 2 bedroom 2½ bath home on a fenced ½ acre lot in Monte Carmelo. Breezy outdoor living room and dining area with ocean views, where you will want to spend most of your time! Spacious open-concept kitchen with eat-in counter. Two ample air conditioned bedrooms with en-suites. Guest halfbath. Double sinks & laundry area in master bath. Office nook with built in computer desk. Outdoor storage casita. Private yet close to town, with off street parking and an electric gate. Mature gardens and plenty of room for a pool. Sky lights throughout for maximum natural light. Sold fully furnished and move in ready. Untitled but with good paperwork. Motivated Seller - Huge Price Reduction! $241,000

ISABEL II On Wednesdays the Vieques Boys and Girls Club accepts cardboard, clean plastic and aluminum. The club is located on the corner of Benite Castaño and Baldoritory de Castro.

A TR

ow ur

WEST END RECYCLING OFFICE Follow 200 going West. After you pass the pier take your first left before the large field across from Milivy Church. (If you get to the church you have gone too far.) / Drive 0.25 miles and look for signs for the recycling office on the left.

Skip the styrofoam! Bring your own container to restaurants for leftovers.

A POOL AND A VIEW IN DESTINO! Tropical retreat with room for the whole family! Spacious 3 bedroom, 2 bath reinvented PRAA home on almost 5,000 Sq Mts in desirable Destino. Large, fenced, newly-resurfaced swimming pool. Ocean views from the outside living room, great room, pool & front yard. Has stairs to the roof for even better views. Huge master bedroom with sitting area and en-suite. Big closets throughout. The original 20’ x 20’ PRAA house is solid poured concrete. Laundry & storage below. Plenty of room for gardening & entertaining. Charming rock walls & terraced garden areas. Breezy, peaceful, relaxing. Recently updated. Titled. $480,000

Phone 787-334-2943 phone 787.741.7001 cell 787.458.7997 www.helendavis.net www.islandrealestate.net 575 German Rieckehoff Vieques, PR 00765 28

www.viequessportfishing.com

vqs H2O

Our drinking water comes from rivers of El Junque, the Rainforest of Puerto Rico. In compliance with state and federal regulations, the Aqueduct and Sewer Authority analyze more than 90 possible contaminants that may be in drinking water. Vieques drinking water is 100% compliant and verified by the EPA. It is safe to drink. So save your money and skip the bottled water! Bring your own thermoflask to take with you to the beach. Hydrate! Your body and the island will thank you!

VIEQUES MURALS

DAPHNE VOSBERG ALDANA

Since 2016, ARTIST CARLOS GIL RIVERA has been coloring the island of Vieques. Hailing from Rio Piedras, Puerto Rico, Carlos began developing his skills as a visual artist when he was an adolescent drawing and coloring in sketch books. His first mural on Vieques is on an abandoned house on Carretera 997, across from the “El Resuelve” restaurant between Isabel Segunda and Esperanza. After his first ‘coloring’, Carlos received a material sponsorship by Master Paints which allowed him to continue decorating municipal and vacant spaces. Perhaps his most impressive work so far splays colorfully across the concrete gazebos and stairs in La Plaza de Los Artesanos on the main street in Isabel Segunda. Carlos gets his inspiration from local tropical flora and fauna, the fresh island air and support from the Vieques community. He hopes that creating art to beautify spaces will inspire other artists on the island to do the same. To learn more about Carlos, follow him on Instagram GilRiveraRTE or call 787-360-8683.

This Kraken painted by viequense ARTIST JOSÉ M. PEREZ greets you as you enter the lobby of El Blok in Esperanza. José has painted many other murals around Vieques, including the beach-inspired typographic logo behind Robyn’s bar and the giant Crab Island Rum logo on the water tank at the distillery. To see more visit his instagram page @josevqs or reach José at 787-361-5818.

ELLIOT ANDERSON

78 PUEBLOS Y 1 BANDERA 7 8 T O W N S A N D 1 F L A G When in Isabel II, it’s hard to miss the vibrant Puerto Rican flag painted on the exterior of the El Local 00765 Restaurant. Vieques is the 70th town in Puerto Rico to boast one of these murals painted by ARTIST HECTOR COLLAZO and his partner Jeanny Lopez. Their initiative, 78 Pueblos y 1 Bandera (78 Towns and 1 Flag), began in 2016 after the death of Hector’s 16-year old brother. To distract himself from his grief, Hector painted the first flag on his home in Orocovis. When photos of the mural went viral on social media, tourists arrived from near and far to pose in front of Hector’s home. From then on, he pledged to paint one in every town across the archipelago. Five years later, they have 7 more towns to decorate before they reach their goal of displaying the flag in every town in Puerto Rico. The project has even migrated to the continental U.S. where flags can be found in Miami, FL and Boston, MA. 29

LOCATED IN ISABEL II OPEN MONDAY to FRIDAY 5pm to 9pm

Oceanfront Vacation Villas www.atthewaves.com atthewavesvieques@gmail.com

FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL (787) 741 0401

Congratulations to ViequesLove’s founder, Kelly Thompson, for bringing Vieques Insider back to life. Thank you, Kelly, for your devotion to the island of Vieques and your vision for the organization – ViequesLove – you helped create. Felicidades a la fundadora de ViequesLove, Kelly Thompson por volver a darle vida a Vieques Insider. Gracias Kelly por tu devoción a la Isla de Vieques y tu visión para esta organización – ViequesLove – la cual ayudastes a crear. D O N AT E

www.viequeslove.org

Fine Architectural Photography, Advertising and Content Creation.

Paid for by the Board of Directors and staff of ViequesLove.

https://www.epanderson.com/lifestyle_home/

ISLAND PRIDE

lasdos viequenses

judokas BY DAPHNE VOSBERG ALDANA

People come to Vieques from all over the world and are amazed at what it has to offer. Sometimes Vieques comes to the world in equally amazing ways and shows it there’s more to the island than stunning sunsets and beaches. That would be the amazing Nahiara Feliciano Williams and Sairy Colon Rodriguez, two young women making their mark in a discipline which showcases highly developed mental and physical skills. Judo is their sport and their art, and the world is now their arena. Each of them began training with the Vieques Judo Club as children–Nahiara at 7 and Sairy at 8. A decade later, they are internationally ranked. Sairy, ranked #1 nationally, carried the banner for the Puerto Rico Delegation at the Cali Valle Junior Pan American games in Cali, Columbia in December. These young women represent great pride for the Vieques community and beyond. The road to their accomplishments has not been easy. Sairy’s mother, Saida Rodriguez, explains that Vieques does not have any advanced sports training facilities. This obligated both athletes to commute to the big island for strenuous hours of practice. “I’ve had to watch her sacrifice her time, her family and special occasions for the love of her sport,” says Mrs. Rodriguez,

ATTA -L E AR N I NG FRO M A NTS

adding that Sairy moved abroad alone at 16 to keep training. Nahiara also laments the time and distance she spends away from her family as her most trying sacrifice. She attributes her success to dedication and perseverance, and the support from her mother, Kamalis Williams Garcia. “Thanks to her, I’ve been able to get where I am in this sport,” Nahiara expresses. The determined youth continuously gathers inspiration from the discipline required to become a world-renowned athlete. The recent competition at the Junior Pan American games reflects the challenges these young athletes face. Viequense judoka Sairy Colón Rodríguez won a Bronze medal. This was the second medal for the Puerto Rico delegation. Viequense judoka Nahiara Feliciano Williams unfortunately did not compete for the bronze medal due to an injury. She returned home to begin a recovery process for upcoming events. Support Nahiara and Sairy and follow their progress on their Facebook Sports Pages: Nahiara L. Feliciano Williams and Sairy Z. Colon Rodriguez. and Instagram: @N.Feliciano_63kgs. Or communicate directly with Saida Rodriguez at (787) 435-9535. n

BY BROOKE ADDISON

Chanel Adalla is a remarkable young girl. Chanel was sad seeing so much trash on the roads and beaches, so she and her family decided to take action. At age 8, she founded the non-profit organization Proyecto ATTA. Her organization strives to involve everyone in the community with picking up trash. “The trash is dangerous to the animals and is polluting our oceans”, Chanel says. Chanel has 8 signs posted across the island to spread awareness and encourage participation by all Viequenses and visitors. Proyecto ATTA is named after the Atta ant who works in harmony with all the other ants in the colony to achieve their goals. Chanel knows that there are many people on Vieques who want to help keep the island clean and beautiful, and that together they can make it happen. You can find Proyecto ATTA on Facebook and Instagram or stop by Marshmallows in Isabel II, owned by Chanel’s parents, to learn about the next clean up! n 31

ACCOMODATIONS At the Waves on Facebook Casa de Amistad 787-247-1017 Casa Coqui Verde 787-477-5182 Casa Fuerte 802-272-0704 El Blok 787-741-6020 Hix Island House 787-435-4590 Lazy Jacks Hostel 787.741.1447 Lazy Jacks Guesthouse 787.741-1447 La Lanchita 800-774-4717 787-741-8449 Malecon House 939-239-7113 SeaGate 201-450-8238 Suenos del Mar (Fajardo, PR) 787-435-0221 The Inn on the Blue 787-741-3318 The Haven on Facebook Tradewinds Guesthouse 787-672-9927 The Vieques Guesthouse 787.435.1513 Villa Dos Palmas 802-272-0704 ACCOUNTANT Victor Simmons AGRICULTURE Finca Consciencia Isla Nena Composta La Colmena Cimarrona Extensión Agrícola

787-936-7496 787-502-4088 787-988-0339 787-502-4088 787-765-8000 x3921

AIRLINES Aerotaxi Charters Air Flamenco Air Sunshine Cape Air M&N Aviation Vieques Air Link

787-718-8869 787-724-1818 954-434-8900 800-227-3247 787-791-7090 888-901-9247

ARCHITECTS Arquitecto Stanley Hutchinson

787-556-5537

ART GALLERIES/LESSONS/ARTISTS Carmen Lund / Painting Classes 203.444.1806 Art Vault /Ernesto Peña 939-248-7200 Fuerte Conde Mirasol 787-375-0525 Oro Vieques 510-682-3064 Kadosh Art Gallery 787-371-8390 Lucky One Designs 787-223-8203 Luna Loca 843-271-1910 Sandra Reyes 939-488-6734 Siddhia Hutchinson Glen Wielgus Gallery 787-556-5409 Vieques Historical Trust 787-741-8850 BIKE TOURS/RENTAL Black Beard Sports Bieque Eco Trips JAK Water Sports Fun Brothers Vieques Cycles

939-238-6841 787-922-2701 787-644-7112 787-435-9372 787-435-2249

CAMPING Sun Bay

787-741-8198

CAR RENTAL / AUTOMOTIVE Fun Brothers 787-435-9372 Maritza’s Car Rental 787-741-0078, 500-1666 Scooters for Rent 939-437-2053 CATERERS Coqui Fire Your Personal Chef (Waldo) Titi Tata’s Kitchen

787-741-0401 787-487-4244 787.450.6565

CONSTRUCTION/HANDYMAN Centro Commercial Florida 787-741-2571 EDK Design Services 787-435-3548 Enid Medina 787-308-8501 Ferreteria Victoria 787-741-3061 Isla Nena Renovations 787-233-1560 M&M of Vieques 787-741-2577 Navarro Construction 787-741-2577 32

Rosas Depot Tony’s Painting Tony Handyman Vieques Locksmith

787-741-1307 787-602-8359 787-556-9941 787-564-5120

DERMATOLOGIST Elena Nogales

787-860-4500

ELECTRICIANS High Quality Electrical Contractor 787-446-6063 ELECTRONICS/PHONE ACCESSORIES

Fire Fi 619-708-1444/787-435-2024 Quiñones Electronics 787-741-2427 EXTERMINATORS Isla Nena Exterminating Professional Exterminating

787-310-1363 787-449-6950

FLOWERS/PLANTS Green Eyed Girl Weddings Roses Luxury

971-506-9406 787-368-5884

HIKING TOURS Black Beard Sports

787-966-7450

HORSEBACK RIDING Esperanza Riding Sea Gate Hotel LIQUOR Crab Island Rum Distillery

787-435-0073 201-450-8238 787-934-8015

MASSAGE Ayurveda Massage 970-729-0505 Beatriz Beauty Boutique & Spa 787-394-0414 Rising Dawn 248-470-5495 (Tanya) 939-389-5556 (Pamela) Vieques Massage Ingrid Bergman 787-435-1313 MUSEUMS Forte Conde Mirasol Vieques Historical & Conservation Trust PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO E.P. Anderson Photography

787-375-0525 787-741-8850 971-605-9406

PHYSICIANS/MEDICAL SERVICES ASSMCA 787-741-4767 Behavioral Health Care 888-440-8787 Centro Quiropráctico 787-741-0414 Consejería Psicológica 787-547-9467 Dra. Daphne Torres (Dentista) 787-741-1916 Farmacia San Antonio 787-741-8397 Dra. Ivette Perez 787-468-2000 Dr. José Figueroa 787-223-1687, 787-366-1931 Dra. Fanny Garraton (dentist) 787-741-8765 Health Pro Med 787-468-2000 Hospicio 800-981-0054 Dr. Luis Rivera 787-718-2250 Vieques CDT 787-685-3960, 787-741-0398 POOL MAINTENANCE Pool Spa Tech Services

787-506-4898

PUBLICOS/TAXIS Alejito Bermúdez 939-261-7857,787-309-6463 Ana Robles 939-244-1958 Angel Hernandez 787-425-3919 Angie Chauffeur 787-455-4596 Carlos & Denisse 787-447-8697 Cocolo (late night) 787-328-3940 Danny 787-934-5840

Dennis Ilarraza 787934-5840 Diego Quiñones 787-590-7068 Eddie 939-488-7464 Edna Robles 787-630-4673 Efrain Santos 787-413-0744 Esteban Carle (Tebín) 787-486-1145 Esteban Ortiz (Tolo) 787-435-9608

Fernando Roldán Gariel Abreu Gabriel Cordero Jorge Rivera José Ayala (Coqui) José Felix (Cheo) Jose Fuentes Jose Morales Juan Carmona Juan Rosa Miguel Ayala Miguel Diaz Modesto Aloyo Tata Robles

407-446-4299 787-245-4549 787-242-4054 939-253-7290 787-374-6820 787-486-9202 939-277-1929 787-435-4277 787-645-2329 787-3427529 787-328-3940 787-485-3470 787-295-3021 787-486-0267

Juanito 787-645-2329 Julio 787-579-1141 Letty Perez/Kiany Tours 787-556-6003 Lolo 787-485-5447 Luis Gonzalez 787-435-3805 M&M Taxi 939-208-1600 Mode’s Transportation 787-295-3021 Naté 787-364-5911 Ruben 787-436-0006 Transportacion Publica 787-358-0655 Vieques Taxi 787-741-TAXI 8294 Vieques Tours & Transportation 787-397-2048

PUBLICOS/TAXIS Puerto Rico Publicos (Ceiba and San Juan area) CR Transportation (Puerto Rico) 787-614-8874 Julian Transfers 787-887-5957, 787-385-7604 Daniel Rivera 787-239-4300/ 787-398-0231 Als taxi 787-590-9001 Efrain Ortiz 787-225-4944 John’s Publico 787-354-5851 John Rosario 787-354-5851 Angelito 939-224-2760 Julian 787-245-6145 Palma’s Transportation /Jay 787-627-8264 Hernan Nieves 787-674-0984 PUBLICATIONS /PRINTING Imprenta Adonai 787-741-2856 Vieques Insider Magazine 787-435-3172 Viequestravel.com 212-462-2900 REAL ESTATE Bravos Boyz 787-550-6913 787-550-6917 Colibrí Realty 787-659-4543 Island Real Estate 787-458-7997 787-334-2943 787-741-7000 Paraiso Realty 787-900-8909 Rainbow Realty 787-741-4312 Broker Marin 787-225-5604 Broker Wetherby 787-380-4990

RESTAURANTS & BARS Aurora’s Chicken & Grill 787-407-9067 Bananas 787-354-0020 Biekes Bistro 787-435-9339 Coquí Fire 787-741-0401 Don Tito’s Lechon 787-741-2898 El Blok Placita 787-741-6020 Lazy Jacks 787-741-1447 Mango Public House on Facebook Marshmallows 787-930-2365 St. Voodoo’s Mar Azul on Facebook Pescaderia/Fish Market 787-349-8660 Rising Roost on Facebook Robin’s Mojito Bar 787-231-8484 Taverna 787-438-1100 Trade Winds Restaurant 787-710-7440 SERVICES Alcoholics Anonymous Alanon Edwin appliance repair Francisco washer/dryer repair

787-380-4990 787-741-0639 787-309-0798 787-209-1709 787-209-0059

Narcotics Anonymous 508-873-4576 Isla Nena Exterminating 787-310-1363 Fire Fi 619-708-1444/787-435-2024 Gofers 787-220-0943 Marc Weems Locksmith 787-564-5120 Recycling 787-741-5000 x2351 Tony’s Painting 787-602-8359 Vieques Gas 787-741-2551 WASPR,Inc. 939-717-2121 Vieques Tech Services 858-337-3116 SHOPPING Atrevida at El Blok 787-741-6020 Luna Loca 803-292-3862 MamaPlaya Himalaya 787-548-1010 Muebleria Quiñones 787-400-4004 Quiñones Electronics 787-741-2427 Rosas Depot 787-741-1307 Scallywags 787-966-7540 Trade Winds Gift Shop 787-741-8666 VCHT Gift Shop 787-741-8850 Vieques Gifts 413-435-1244

Recycling Office 787-741-5000 Post Office 787-741-3891 PR Tourism Office Vieques Airport 787-741-2300 Isabel II 787-741-0800 AAA Autoridad de Acueductos 787-741-2001 Fire Department 787-741-2111 FWS 787-741-2138 Vieques Post Office 202-791-7632 Vieques Gas 787-469-7734 Vieques Covid Hotline 787-340-3837 EMERGENCY Ambulance 787-741-8261/911 Hospital 787-741-3282 Emergency 787-741-8261 or 911 Fire Dept 787-741-2111 Police 787-741-2020 Municipal Office 787-741-5000 787-741-5051, 939-239-4164

SPA/SALON/ESTHETICIAN Beatriz Beauty Boutique & Spa 787-556-8662 SIGHTSEEING TOURS Black Beard Sports 939-238-6841 Vieques Island Tours &Transport. 787-397-2048 TOWING Alex 939-238-9033 Armando 787-644-1139 Chepo Towing 787-966-3985 Freddy 787-608-9914 Josaen Maldonado 939-247-9825 TRANSPORT Island Delivery (Aurelio) Tranka Transport

787-238-9108 939-475-0687

WEDDING/EVENT PLANNERS Eva Bolivar 787-402-0357 Green Eyed Girl Weddings 971-506-9406 YOGA / LIFECOACHING Ayurveda 970-729-0505 Esperanza Yoga w/Valerie 508-945-7643 Serenity Point Yoga on Facebook Vieques Pilates, Yoga & Wellness 231-383-1885 MUNICIPAL / GOV. AGENCIES / PUBLIC SERVICE Banco Popular 787-741-7117 City Hall/Alcaldía 787-741-5000 Emergency Management/ Ambulance 787-741-8261/911 Sun Bay 787-741-8198 US Fish and Wildlife Office 787-741-2138

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON VIEQUES THIS WEEK? Check our online calendar of events.

WATER ACTIVITIES Biobay tours Abes Bieque Ecotours Blackbeard Sports Fun Brothers Jak Water Sports Salty Spirit Taino

787-435-1362 787-992-2701 939-283-6841 787-435-9337 787-644-7112 787-477-8664 787-349-6964

boat snorkel tours Abes Blackbeard Sports Jak Water Sports Nauti Mermaid Salty Spirit Taino

787-435-1362 939-283-6841 787-644-7112 754-216-8168 787-477-8664 787-349-6964

Equipment rental Bieque Ecotours Blackbeard Sports Fun Brothers Jak Water Sports

787-992-2701 939-283-6841 787-435-9337 787-644-7112

fishing Abes 787-435-1362 Amity Charters 787-502-3839 Bieque Ecotours 787-992-2701 El Pescador Fishing & Marine Store 787-231-2624 Salty Spirit 787-477-8664 Kayak tours Abes Bieque Ecotours Jak Water Sports

787-435-1362 787-992-2701 787-644-7112

snorkel tours Abes Blackbeard Sports Bieque Ecotours Crystal Clear Vieques Fun Brothers

787-435-1362 939-283-6841 787-992-2701 787-242-1071 787-435-9337

luxury cruise Nauti Mermaid

754-216-8168

PaddleBoard Abes Blackbeard Sports Jak Water Sports Nauti Mermaid

787-435-1362 939-283-6841 787-644-7112 754-216-8168

scuba Blackbeard Sports

939-283-6841

The phone directory includes advertisers and services. If you wish to be included or would like to update your number please email kelly@viequesinsider.com. A more complete phone directory is listed on our website. www.viequesinsider.com.

PA S S I O N IN A B OT T L E

The

Spiritof

Vieques BY AMY GORDON

e’ s

V ie

que

T he r

s pi r i

t i n to w n , a n d i t ’ s a l

ou b a l

hether it’s your first time on the island or you’ve been coming down for years,

do yourself a favor and order a Crab Island Rum cocktail as soon as possible. You’ll see them on drink menus at lots of local restaurants and bars. As you relax and sip, you’ll savor a first-class product crafted and bottled right here on Vieques. In fact, Crab Island represents so much of what makes this place so special: purity, ingenuity, passion and resilience. The company is the brainchild of founder Ivan Torres Ortiz. Born and raised on Vieques, he took an interest in the local microbrewery scene while attending the University of Minnesota. When he returned to the island after earning his Masters degree, he brought with him a vision: emulate the microbrewery business model with a microdistillery right here at home. The road to creating what eventually became Crab Island Rum began in 2009, and while this spirit is smooth on the palate, the road to get here was anything but. Faced with challenges ranging from raising capital to procuring highly specialized equipment to rebuilding after back-to-back Category 5 hurricanes, Ivan persevered for nearly a decade. The first batch went into the barrels in 2019,

marking a milestone not just for the company, but for the entire community of Vieques. “So many people supported and worked tirelessly for this endeavor. It truly is an island-made distillery,” the founder says. The bottle features a map of the island on the top and the name of the island on both sides. Even the name itself is a nod to the island’s nickname while under British rule. The goal is to have consumers associate Vieques with top-quality rum, just as the mountains of central Puerto Rico are renowned for exceptional coffee. In fact, one of the brand’s three offerings, Coffee Infusion, is crafted with beans from Lealtad, a coffee plantation in Lares, Puerto Rico. Crab Island also produces Orange Infusion made with fruit from Naranjito, as well as a variety that’s aged for one year. “We do it all,” he says. “We make the simple syrup, peel the oranges, and infuse the coffee.” It doesn’t get much more “micro” than that. Currently, the distillery can produce roughly 28,800 bottles per year, but there are plans to add a barrel warehouse in the near future. 35

Biobay Kayaking Snorkeling Paddle boarding Private Tours

Online booking • abessnorkeling.com (787) 435-1362 36

The bar is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from noon to 8 PM, and distillery tours are offered until 5 PM (be sure to check Crab Island’s Facebook page for the most updated hours and information).

Sunny Rumarita 2 ½ ounces Crab Island Orange Infusion Rum 1 ½ ounces ounces Triple Sec (or Grand Marnier) 3 ounces fresh orange juice 1 ounce fresh lime juice Honey for desired sweetness

Salud!

“If you want to have barrels that age 10 to 12 years,” says Ivan, “you need a space to put them.” He notes larger capacity means creating more jobs on the island, a perk that has a major impact in a place as small as Vieques. For now, with limited space, he is focused on maintaining the superior quality of the product. “I want a line of products that people can recognize, and I want it to bring people to the island as well,” Ivan explains. That’s why the distillery just unveiled its new onsite rum bar in December. It’s a spot where guests can spend time, sip and have bites that complement the Rum Island cocktails. Guests can also participate in guided tours of the distillery, hear live music and connect with local artisans, residents and visitors.

Combine ingredients in a cock tail shaker and shake. Ser ve over crushed ice. Salt or sugar your rim.

Can’t make it out to the distillery? You can grab a bottle (or two … or three…) of Crab Island Rum at most local grocery stores and colmados. If you’re on the main island of Puerto Rico, look for it at major retailers like Walmart and Econo. And while you’re shopping, buy a few extras to stash in your checked bag. That way, you can enjoy the Spirits of Paradise long after you’ve returned home.

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GUE S T H O U S E VIEQU ES, PU ERTO R IC O

BEA C H B A R & G R ILL

ON THE MALECON ESPERANZA

787-354 0020

f f a t S s a n a n a B e h t from

! o c e v o r P Buen

WED-MON 11AM - 10PM Closed Tuesdays

CORAL conservation

T H E R AC E AG A I N S T SCTLD

A Q U E S T T O S AV E T H E C O R A L S BY AMY GORDON

CRYSTAL CLEAR LLC DRNA PERMIT # O-VS-PVS15-SJ-01166-20102020

MARK MARTIN BRAS

A VAST ECOSYSTEM OF SEA CREATURES SWIM IN THE WATERS SURROUNDING VIEQUES—FROM SPINY CARIBBEAN LOBSTERS TO COLORFUL SCHOOLS OF PARROTFISH TO MAGNIFICENT SEA TURTLES—AND THEY ALL RELY ON CORALS TO SUSTAIN THEM. BUT JUST LIKE ANY OTHER LIVING THING, CORALS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO DISEASE AND ONE RELATIVELY NEW AILMENT IS THREATENING MORE THAN 20 SPECIES. Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD) first appeared in Florida in

CRYSTAL CLEAR LLC DRNA PERMIT # 2021-EPE-001 (O-VS-PVS15-SJ-01166-20102020

2014 and tracked since throughout the Caribbean. It’s a lethal sickness that spreads fast, and while it can’t be cured, it can be treated and contained. Sarah Elise P. Field, owner/operator of Crystal Clear tours, is on a mission to protect Vieques corals from SCTLD and keep our underwater ecosystems intact. A steward of the sea, Sarah Elise attended training in 2019 in San Juan about identifying and treating SCTLD. “The team from Sea Grant Florida essentially came to warn us,” she recalls. “They’ve been dealing with it since 2014 and have seen firsthand the damage it can do.” The disease was first detected in Vieques in 2020, which unfortunately coincided with the start of the Covid-19 lockdown. “It was so frustrating not to be able to get out there and see what was happening to the corals,” Sarah Elise says. When she was finally able to get back into the water, she came across a coral that looked suspect. “I took a photo, followed up with Ana Zangroniz from Sea Grant Florida, and she confirmed that it was, in fact, SCTLD,” she recalls. “I started going to different reefs and reporting what I saw.” She eventually connected with Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambientales who came to Vieques to lead treatment at an infected reef. “I was blown away,” says Miss Field. “This is becoming a reality!” She got a permit to treat the disease on her own in February 2021. She’s been hard at work focusing her first efforts at Rompeolas, the breakwater on the north side of Vieques. A popular diving and snorkeling spot for locals and tourists, the area is easily accessible, home to more than 15 different coral species and draws a wide range of sea life. While the dead portions of the corals won’t come back to life, the point is to keep SCTLD from progressing. “I’ve treated at Rompeolas multiple

times now, so it’s somewhat under control,” says Sarah Elise. “We were able to catch it in time.” In fact, only one treated coral has died out of more than 100 corals treated at this site.

CRYSTALCLEARVIEQUES.COM

ENCHANTE GALLARDO

Sarah Elise Field of Crystal Clear, certified treatment specialist, treating stony coral tissue loss disease (SCTLD) with a combination of CoralCure (a mucosal adhesive) mixed with amoxicillin. “I fill a syringe, pump it out along the disease line, and the medicine slowly releases into the tissue over three days,” she says. The cost of the medicine is approximately $300 and treats roughly 20-40 corals depending on size. 40

APRIL 23, 2021

[ 9 D AY S ]

M AY 2 , 2 0 2 1

Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD) kills corals at an alarming rate and was first detected in Vieques corals in 2020.

As a tour guide, she is in the unique position of having eyes on the same reefs on a regular basis, an invaluable tool in learning about a relatively young disease. Sarah Elise’s photos appear in the SCTLD intervention plan for all of Puerto Rico, and she recently received an email from the manager of the Coral Reef Conservation & Management Program asking to include them in a presentation to the governor. Today, Sarah Elise’s team consists of her and one other certified treater, Emily Walsh. A third is in the process of applying for a permit to join the efforts, and Sarah Elise hopes to amass a team of dedicated volunteers that can work together to stop the spread of SCTLD in Vieques waters. Because the effort was initiated by Sarah Elise, she currently donates $5 of every snorkel tour booked with Crystal Clear. Learn more about the initiative and how you can help at www.viequescoralconservation.com. n

Emily Walsh’s final day of training to be certified as a coral treatment specialist.

J See Something? Say Something! The Atlantic and Gulf Rapid Reef Assessment (AGRRA), a nonprofit that champions coral reef conservation, features an interactive SCTLD tracking map on its website. You can see where the disease has been spotted and submit a survey to report possible sightings. Photos are necessary to confirm SCTLD sightings. Access the map and learn more at www.agrra.org/coral-disease-outbreak or email info@agrra.org

CRYSTALCLEARVIEQUES.COM

J The Good News

CRYSTALCLEARVIEQUES.COM

Since SCTLD only attacks stony (hard) corals, the many species of soft corals in our waters means there are still plenty of amazing snorkel and dive spots minimally affected. Says Sarah Elise, “One of our snorkel locations, for example, had so few hard corals before the disease hit that the ecosystem hasn’t changed significantly. It is still magical.” CRYSTAL CLEAR LLC DRNA PERMIT # 2021-EPE-001 (O-VS-PVS15-SJ-01166-20102020

rade Winds QUES,

Guest House open year round Restaurant open for Dinner & Brunch summer and winter

787-710-7440

www.tradewindsvieques.com

View menu:

Check our website or FB for current hours and activities join us for an

OpenTable experience!

@tradewindsvieques 41

THE BUZZ

THE VIEQUES BEEKEEPER BY DAPHNE VOSBERG ALDANA

Jose Rijos teaches a group of children from the club SOMOS about caring for bees.

“The Vieques bee doesn’t leave Vieques.”

JOSE RIJOS began working with bees at the age of 14 with his father. At that time, beekeeping was a rare hobby in Vieques. “We didn’t try to maximize production,” admits Rijos, “we were very wasteful.” That was roughly 40 years ago. After a long career with the Autoridad de Energia Electrica (AEE), Rijos considered how to remain active in retirement and found his way back to beekeeping. About 6 years ago, he started a small, word-of-mouth bee removal operation to gather his hives. And then Hurricane Maria came. The storm wiped out about 60% of what he had accumulated. Like the rest of Vieques, he shook his head, rolled up his sleeves (or in his case, rolled them down) and pressed forward. With the last 4 years behind him, Rijos is now up and running with 60 hives and harvesting honey from local bees. “The Vieques bee doesn’t leave Vieques,” he explains. He says the island 42

is home to a few varieties of African bees and, fascinatingly enough, their honey tastes different depending on where they are on the island. “The honey from near El Pueblo, like where we are now,” Rijos enlightens me, gesturing to our surroundings, “will be multifloral.” We’re sitting at a former elementary school in Barrio Destino where Rijos is repurposing the building for his operation called Apiario Naymar, Inc. Set to open in mid 2022, the project will include an assembly warehouse for bee boxes, an expelling facility and a small shop to sell merchandise. Not only will Apiario Naymar produce honey, but also wax, pollen, propolis and other bee products, all of which are renowned for a multitude of health benefits. With a grand variety of fruit trees and flowers, Vieques hosts the perfect environment for these pollinators to thrive. Some of the bee favorites include orange, quenepa, crabapple and tamarind trees along with flamboyan, cosmo, and sunflowers. Sadly, Rijos knows all too well the effect environmental destruction of the Earth has on his efforts. “The bees work for humans, but humans don’t work for the bees”, he says, concisely. One of the most detrimental effects of deforestation is the destruction of food sources and healthy hive environments. To support his and the bees’ efforts, Rijos encourages Vieques residents to plant home gardens with plenty of native flowers, and to contribute to reforestation efforts by planting local fruit trees. Also, Rijos notes, if you find a hive in your home, have it properly removed. “A lot of times, people don’t want to pay for bee removal and choose to apply insecticide instead,” he notes with disappointment. “This just makes the bees mad, and then I still have to go out, this time to remove angry bees, which is much more work”. Rijos explains that it’s difficult to charge properly for this service. “People think that me taking the hive is enough. What they don’t know is that I don’t control the bees, God controls the bees.” His role as a beekeeper is to organize and optimize what these amazing creatures already do in nature by giving them a clean home and hoping they’ll stay. And when they do, we, the grateful consumers, share in the benefits of their sweet alchemy. You can find Rijos and his products at the Agricultural Sambumbia at the town plaza in Isabel Segunda on the 2nd and 4th Fridays of each month from 11AM to2 PM. You can also call him directly at (787) 312-5848 for a delivery or bee removal. Stay tuned for the grand opening of Apiario Naymar, Inc. in 2022! n

L O C A L LY G R OW N

Fresh, Local, Organic

Jahzara Heredia, JaFlor

The movement for fresh, local, organic food in Vieques is alive and well, much like the produce it’s providing. At the forefront of this movement is the Colectiva Agrícola Viequense, a group of farmers who collaborate to make more fresh, locally-grown produce accessible. Our efforts spring from a very real need for food security on the island. Vieques is a Puerto Rico island municipality 7 miles off the coast of the main island of Puerto Rico. It is at the extreme end of a chain of distribution, which means that any kind of delay or transportation mishap can leave grocery store shelves empty. Vieques had a robust agricultural industry at one time, exporting sugar, pineapples and other crops. With the expropriation of most of the agricultural land in 1940 by the U.S. Navy, farming on Vieques all but ceased. Today, the tiny island imports over 95% of its food, which is why supporting local farms is so important. The Colectiva Agrícola Viequense is a project of La Colmena Cimarrona, a nonprofit organization developing a local solidarity economy. Our ultimate goal is to create a flourishing food sovereignty in the archipelago of Puerto Rico. That sovereignty means the people who grow the food control its handling and distribution, not corporations or supermarket chains. Our Colectiva functions as a network of support and resources for the farmers in Vieques to promote agricultural production. It comprises 6 farms: Finca Conciencia, La Semillera, Finca Oasis, Sembrando Esperanza en la Esperanza, Finca de Quiro, and JahFlor. These farms practice agroecology, an ecological approach to agriculture that produces food while protecting local ecosystems and natural resources. Together we contribute to La Sambumbia, our local farmers market. On a simple level, the market provides a space for the sale of produce grown in Vieques. But we see a greater purpose in educating people about nutrition and agroecology, and creating economic possibilities for future generations of Viequense farmers. n

You can support Viequense farmers by coming to La Sambumbia during your visit to the island and buying locally grown vegetables and fruits for a unique culinary experience. You will find things like pana (breadfruit), guanábana (soursop), anón (custard apple), rare cultivars (varieties) of plantains and mangoes, as well as greens and herbs. The market takes place every 2nd and 4th Friday of the month, from 11 AM to 2 PM, in the central plaza of Isabel II. 43

TOURS

On the Water

WITH CAPT. TOM KIRKBRIGHT

4 4THOMPSON KELLY

SALTYSPIRIT.COM

CRYSTALCLEARVIEQUS.COM

CRYSTALCLEARVIEQUS.COM 45

ONE

OF THE BLESSINGS OF WRITING

On The Water

IS THAT THE SEA PROVIDES A FRESH SOURCE OF MATERIAL EVERY DAY, USUALLY FULL OF ADVENTURE

AND JOY. BUT THE LAST FEW YEARS HAVE NOT BEEN THAT WAY FOR MANY OF OUR LOCALS WHO MAKE THEIR LIVING CULTIVATING AND TENDING ITS NATURAL GIFTS. The devastation of Hurricane Maria and the shutdowns of the ensuing pandemic have, as nature always does, challenged them to survive. Mariners who ply their trade on the water were dry-docked for four plus years. Captains and guides searched for construction jobs while fishermen sold lobster to people waiting in gas lines. Surviving was the challenge, and the headwinds blew heavily each day. The only solution was to come together. The Island community responded.

With the creation of new organizations and the enhancement of existing ones, the island perseveres. Efforts are well underway that once again maintain our island’s natural resources, especially the vast waters that surround it. Monitored systematically by the Vieques Historical Trust, the Bioluminescent Bay is undergoing an extensive mangrove restoration process. TICATOVE is in full swing, ensuring the health of sea turtles, beaches and more. Dive companies and diver volunteers schedule underwater habitat cleanups to optimize the environment for marine life. A snorkel tour business owner certified in coral reef treatments is reviving the local reefs. These are just a few of the initiatives embarked upon by a coordination of business operators, volunteers, charities and the Municipality. The eco-centric Island of Vieques is once again thriving, which means fishermen can catch, restaurants can serve and the Bio Bay can shine to furnish visitors and guests with a unique experience. W E ’ R E BAC K ! A N D B E T T E R T H A N E V E R .

On The Water

! A priority for visitors is an evening tour on the Now l et ’s ge t magical Bioluminescent Bay. The water comes alive with the glow of dinoflagellates dancing on your fingertips. Remember to book your tour anytime except on the week of the full moon. Snorkeling is one of the most pursued water sports here. You’re destined to discover an amazing underwater seascape whether by boat or off the shoreline. Tour operators constantly monitor water conditions surrounding the island then bring you to the premiere locations for that day’s snorkel. If diving is your passion, you’re in for a treat. The inshore and offshore reefs and Rampeolos can satisfy your appetite. Vieques is quietly becoming a revered Caribbean dive destination. A five-star PADI dive center provides introductory scuba programs like DDS, along with every training classification from basic scuba to rescue and instructor programs. The dive center supplies all diving essentials and other sports apparatus. Looking to chase Wahoo in open blue water or fish off the coastline of Culebra and Culebrita for a multitude of species? Offshore charters are waiting. If you prefer the inshore action, charter for Tarpon, Snook and Jacks. Or, you can fish the shoreline for a laid back approach. Check out the lee side of land extensions or the Kiani Lagoon in a kayak. Try a day aboard a luxury yacht where you can kayak and paddleboard nearby or sink your toes in a remote white sand beach. Snorkel offshore reefs or just relax with pampering on the deck while marveling at the panoramic views of the Caribbean and Vieques. Book a daytime kayak or paddleboard tour along the mangroves. The tour guides know all the hidden gems and the most advantageous time to paddle each location. Beach-hopping tours have become the new craze on island and the tour operators have noticed. Discover sunset, beach party and custom tours, or tours with boat-only access. Amenities can include beach chairs, snorkel gear, refreshments and tasty bites. Check with each operator. If you enjoy exploring on your own, a vast variety of water sport equipment and beach paraphernalia is available for rent. We highly recommend if you opt for a water sport, your best option is to make reservations with an experienced captain or tour guide. Knowing the waters of Vieques is paramount to insure a safe and enjoyable experience. Never snorkel or dive alone. Be sure to remember all safety equipment. n

ABES BioBay Tours, Snorkel Tours, Kayak Tours, Paddleboard Tours, Fishing, Beach Hopping Boat, Kayak Fishing Tours 787-435-1362 AMITY Sport Fishing/Boat 787-502-3839 BIEQUE ECOTOURS BioBay Tours, Kayak Tours, Kayak Fishing Tours, Beach Hopping Tours, Rental Equipment 787-992-2701 BLACKBEARD SPORTS Scuba Diving, Snorkel Tours, BioBay Tours, Spear Fishing Guns, Rental Equipment 787-966-7540 CRYSTAL CLEAR VIEQUES Snorkel Tours 787-242-1071 EL PESCADOR FISHING & MARINE SUPPLIES Fishing Equipment Store 787-231-2624 FUN BROTHERS BioBay Tours, Snorkel Tours, Rental Equipment 787-435-9372 JAK WATER SPORTS BioBay Tours, Kayak Tours, Paddleboard Tours, Snorkel Boat, Rental Equipment 787-644-7112 NAUTI MERMAID Luxury Cruise, Kayak Tours, Paddleboard Boat, Snorkel Boat 754-216-8168 SALTY SPIRIT Fishing, BioBay Tours, Snorkel Boat, Beach Hopping Boat 787-477-8664

CRYSTALCLEARVIEQUES.COM 47

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DANIEL FERNANDEZ

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54%

You’ve arrived!

VIEQUES NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE by Rosie Dempsey

18,000 ACRES Approximately 51% of the island of Vieques - 18,000 acres - is managed by the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge (USFWS). It is the second largest natural conservation area in all of Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands, the largest being El Yunque, the rainforest of Puerto Rico. An additional 2,000 acres managed by PR-DNER and local groups bring the total to 20,000 acres of protected lands. Only 8% of the land in all of Puerto Rico is legally set aside for conservation purposes, so Vieques stands out as a significant example of the need for land protection.

The Vieques National Wildlife Refuge is the most ecologically diverse and largest U.S. Wildlife Refuge in the Caribbean. It offers a lush variety of habitats, including the only Neotropical forest in the Wildlife Refuge system and one of the healthiest sub-tropical dry forests in the Caribbean. Add to that amazing beaches, coastal lagoons and mangrove wetlands and collectively, the ecosystems are home to a diversity of wildlife. Easily seen are Brown Pelicans who drop midflight to swoop up fish, local Puerto Rican woodpeckers, Monarch butterflies, Ameiva lizards and the iconic Cattle Egret sitting on the back of a foraging horse. Two animals we wish you didn’t see are the invasive mongoose (glimpse these long brown weasel-like creatures, whose tails are as long as their bodies, as they run across the road) and sizable Green Iguanas (high in trees or along the shoreline). The rich marine

world offers coral reefs filled with fish and sea grass beds where sea turtles forage. Rarely seen but regularly present are manatees who laze in the lagoons, and endangered sea turtles who are more likely seen. Of the four species of sea turtles spotted in Vieques, the Greens and Hawksbills are the most visible. Vieques has the highest percentage of Green sea turtle nests in the Archipelago of Puerto Rico. Depending on the species, female sea turtles often return to the beaches of their birth to lay eggs.

KELLY THOMPSON

OPEN HOURS PUNTA ARENAS ENTRANCE

997 FWS ENTRANCE

E AST T R A C T 1 5 , 0 0 0 AC R E S

WEST TRACT 3,000 ACRES PLAYA GRANDE ENTRANCE

DIRECTIONS

There are two tracts of the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge; the west and the east. The east entrance is located in the middle of the island on Route 997 at kilometer maker 3.2. This section houses a visitors center, due to reopen in 2022. There are two western entrances: Punta Arenas/Kiani and Playa Grande. Punta Arenas is on the North side of the island. Take Rt. 200 towards the airport, continue west past the Ceiba Tree until you hit a Y at the end of the road. Stay right. If you stay left at the Y, it leads to the Monte Pirata gate (which is currently closed). The Playa Grande entrance is on the south side of the island. Take Rt. 966 going west from Esperanza and turn left at the end of the road. Deeper in this area, there is a small secondary gate on the far end of Playa Grande, and another small gate that accesses the Punta Vaca area. These sections of the Wildlife Refuge also border other conservation lands that are open to the public.

September 1 to February 28: 7 AM - 6:30 PM March 1 to August 31 7 AM- 7:30 PM The main gate on the east side at Rt. 997 is electric and shuts automatically at the posted time! RULES governing the permitted and not permitted activities on all National Wildlife Refuges are posted in various areas and they cover basic regulations. For more general details on permitted/not permitted activities, please visit the Vieques NWR Facebook and/ or webpage. For more specific information please visit the USFWS National Wildlife Refuges webpage.

• Conservation of sea turtles and other natural resources for 15 years. We assist the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge(VNWR) on many projects that improve visitor experience and expand recreational opportunities for visitors and residents. • 52

O U R N E W N AT I O N A L N AT U R A L L A N D M A R K

PUERTO MOSQUITO OBSERVATION PLATFORM BY ROSIE DEMPSEY

Two main attributes make Vieques a worldwide tourist destination; the Puerto Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay and the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge which borders it. Up till now, seeing them meant being in them. Now these two entities are married in a single spectacular view. Most people see the Biobay at night from a kayak, which is a wonderful natural spectacle best appreciated in the dark. Rarely do they see the Bay and its surroundings during the day, or, unless they’re flying, get a bird’s-eye view. Now that view exists in the National Wildlife Refuge and with a little effort, you can enjoy it. Reachable during the day by foot, bike, horse or vehicle, a trail leading to a short path and a 20-foot wide platform that comes with guided signage. Climb an extra ten feet to a crow’s nest tower for a breathtaking panorama. The amazing view includes the entire Puerto Mosquito Natural Natural Landmark area at a full 2,381 acres, plus another two Biobays and forests along the southern shoreline. “Vieques is honored to have one of only five National Natural Landmarks in the Puerto Rico Archipelago,” says Mike Barandiaran, Wildlife Refuge Manager, Vieques NWR. With the addition of the platform and tower, it’s now on display in spectacular fashion. Find this vista by entering the Wildlife Refuge on Rt. 997, kilometer marker 3.2. Make an immediate left and drive one mile up a gravel road that is shared with hikers, bikers and horseback riders to the NNL trail entrance at a small pullover parking area on the left. Of course, you can do the full loop, including the roads, and get in over 2 miles. Vieques is home to a huge amount of conservation land preserved for wildlife, and you and me. You can dive deeper into the physical landscape using 11 other trails on Vieques or hit a few beaches. TICATOVE, a community-based organization, lists trails throughout the island with GPS coordinates. See more online at ticatove.org/vqs-hiking-trails. Expanding nature-based recreational options and creating more eco-focused jobs is part of what unites many local leaders seeking a sustainable economy for Vieques. With the support of donors, the Wildlife Refuge has another observation platform in the works with an even bigger view at the top of Mt. Pirata, the highest point on the island. So come back again. I bet you will. n

Puerto Mosquito National Natural Landmark Observation Platform & Trail crows’ nest or broad view from platform.

Compare the Puerto Mosquito Bay entrance to the other two bays (Tapon and Puerto Ferro) which have a wider and straighter mouth to the sea. This causes constant flushing that reduces the numbers of organisms (dinoflagellates) that create the bioluminescence. The Puerto Mosquito Bay has a smaller gooseneck opening to the sea that allows it to maintain a thriving population of the one-cell creatures, which light up bluish and bright in response to movement in the dark water.

Ticatove Open House Saturday, January 22, 2-5 pm Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, Rte. 997, 1.5 miles from entrance at the former Navy building. Talks by VNWR Manager Mike Barandiaran and Ticatove’s Angie Hernandez. History of Ticatove displays, kids activities and music. • WWW.TICATOVE.ORG has hiking trail maps, beach information and much more. AD PAID FOR BY BOARD MEMBERS OF TICATOVE 53

V I EQU E S NO NP R O FITS

Discover ways to help our island organizations who make a profound difference on Vieques. ALAPAS supports the families of victims of violent crime in Vieques. To help, contact Kathy Gannett at 787-565-2717. APIARIO BIEKE is a non-profit, community-based organization dedicated to beekeeping. Mission: Save the bees of Vieques. Objectives: To create the first local educational apiary. On facebook @apiariobieke ATTA formed to protect the environment with clean ups and messages about trash and littering. 787-930-2365 BOYS & GIRLS CLUBS OF PUERTO RICO is a non-profit organization with more than 54 years of service that has impacted the lives of more than 70,000 children and youth since founded. After school programs and services to children and teenagers ages 6 to 18. 787-741-6006 www.bgcpr.org COMIDA CALIENTE is a community initiative. It was created at the beginning of the pandemic by a concern of the Guadalupe sisters who fear for the health and safety of the elderly, going to the market and getting infected by Covid 19. On facebook at Comida Caliente comidacaliente2020@gmail.com COREFI assists the sick, elderly, disabled and bedridden. We go directly into our neighborhoods to find and lift up those in need, especially because they are often the most unseen. www.corefi.org or 787-433-0413 EL FORTIN CONDE DE MIRASOL is a fort built in 1845 located atop the Vieques town of Isabel Segunda that protects institutions of Puerto Rican culture. It is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. On Facebook @fortincondedemirasol FANTASA CARIBENA DE VIEQUES is dedicated to creating handmade carnival costumes for the representation and participation of the islands of Vieques, Puerto Rico and St. Croix at the The New York City Puerto Rican Day Parade and to supporting and celebrating the island communities. On facebook Fantasia Caribeña de Vieques FE QUE TRANSFORMA, INC. is a non-profit organization dedicated to spiritual and social support. We serve our communities through multiple programs that provide food and health security, educational and community development. www.fequetransforma.com HOOVES ON THE GROUND Hooves on the Ground/Pezunas en el Suelo; Horse emergencies, Preventative Care, Humane Education; 305-898-3574; On Facebook @ Hoovesontheground/PezunasenelSuelo

HOPE BUILDERS is a non-profit construction company founded in the wake of Hurricane Maria by Vickie Michaud to rebuild and repair homes. Our mission is demonstrating God’s love, building homes, communities and hope. www.hopebuildersinc.org INCUBATOR BIEKE MICRO, INC. is dedicated to reducing the impact of poverty on the island of Vieques by promoting self-employment and community-tourism companies. On Facebook @incubadorabieke or 787-206-0602 ISLA NENA COMPOSTA Community non-profit, dedicated to the recovery of the community’s vegetation debris, for the production of compost, to promote jobs, to sponsor local production of fresh food and the restoration of freshwater ecosystems in Vieques. On facebook @islanenacomposta or 787-309-8408 JUNTOS is dedicated to promoting the humane treatment of all animals on Vieques by strengthening the human-animal bond through educational awareness, outreach and direct community participation. 787-556-9030 www.juntosvieques.org LA COLMENA CIMARRONA operates the Semillera Farm and the Dulzura Apiary on Route 997.www.colmenacimarrona.org OUR BIG FAT CARIBBEAN RESCUE is dedicated to improving the lives of Vieques’ animals by providing free spay/neuter, non-profit veterinary clinics, thereby strengthening the human-animal bond through Community Outreach and Humane Education. We believe helping an animal helps a person, their family and their community. www.ourbigfatcaribbeanrescue.org PARQUE LA CEIBA An ecological parkprotecting our over 300 year old Ceiba tree and surrounding area. 787-467-4352 ROTARY CLUB OF VIEQUES “Service above self” is the motto of Rotary. Our focus in Vieques has been to help organizations working with Vieques children and youth, as well as organizations serving Vieques individuals in need. www.rotaryvieques.com 347-366-2211 SAIL RELIEF’S mission is to bring disaster relief and preparedness to remote, isolated and under-served coastal communities and address three core needs; Response, Recovery and Resilience. www.sailrelief.team SOMOS is an initiative sponsored by OBFCR that seeks to develop social justice awareness through humane education.

THE NAVY LEAGUE COUNCIL supports the Sea Services organization(s) in our vicinity, currently the U.S. Coast Guard operating at Station San Juan and Air Station Borinquen. The Council also provides support for community and educational projects which benefit the people of Vieques. On Facebook @navyleaguevieques TICATOVE Our primary mission is to protect and conserve the natural treasures of Vieques through the promotion and development of conservation actions that teach how humanity and nature are and must be compatible. www.ticatove.org VIEQUES CONCERT SOCIETY We support music education to provide the opportunity for the youth of Vieques to express his or her creative gifts, inspiring the spirits of others throughout the community. 787-413-2450 On facebook @viequesconcertsociety VIEQUES CONSERVATION AND HISTORICAL TRUST Our mission is to serve as stewards of a sustainable and resilient Vieques via education, scientific research and direct action. The VCHT comanages the Puerto Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay Reserve, assisting the PR Department of Natural and Environmental Resources in erosion and sedimentation control, water quality monitoring and dinoflagellate counts. www.vcht.org 787-741-8850 VIEQUES EMERGENCY RESPONSE INC Nonprofit rescue group serving the people of Vieques. On facebook @vqsemergency or 787-901-7500 VIEQUES EN RESCATE, INC. is dedicated to providing assistance for cancer patients of Vieques and their families. facebook @viequesenrescateinc 787-408-7161 VIEQUES HUMANE SOCIETY AND ANIMAL RESCUE (VHS) VHS is the island’s only non profit open-admission animal shelter and low-cost veterinary clinic with regular service hours. Our life-saving work includes sheltering, adoption, transport to stateside adoption partners, spay/ neuter/vaccinate programs, wellness and emergency care, and community-focused education. 787.741.0209 www.viequeshumanesociety.org VIEQUES ISLAND ANIMAL SANCTUARY focuses on making its biggest impact on the old, the critically injured, the helpless and the infirm animals we come across. We believe in 2nd and 3rd chances. We believe in miracles. viequesanimalsanctuary.org VIEQUES LOVE Preparedness, Resilience, Sustainability. We foster community capacity for readiness and mitigate risk to residents. www. viequeslove.org 787-435-3172

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villadospalmas.viequespr@gmail.com Villa Dos Palmas Vieques, PR

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OUR AMAZING

BY: KELLY THOMPSON, MARK MARTIN BRAS, LIRIO MARQUEZ AND ERICK BERMUDEZ

BIOBAY

There are few places in the world that classify as bioluminescent “bays”. Puerto Mosquito, Vieques’ bioluminescent bay, is considered by many to be one of the less known wonders of the world, having been declared the brightest in the world by Guinness World Records. The experience of taking a guided tour should absolutely not be missed if you are visiting. It is an experience that will stay with you a lifetime. The magic of the Biobay is created by single cell organisms called Pyrodinium bahamense (whirling fire of the Bahamas), a type of luminescent dinoflagellate. This single cell microscopic plankton is able to convert chemical energy into light energy by synthesizing luciferin with the enzyme luciferase, plus oxygen, produces a bluish-green light. The glow is thought to be a defense mechanism. The highest concentration of dinoflagellates in the bay to date was 3,319,267 per gallon. That concentration varies over time but the Biobay always bedazzles.

.47 mile

Puerto Mosquito Caño Hondo

Max. depth 14 feet Area 160 acres

KELLY THOMPSON

.22 mile

THE CONDITIONS RED

BUTTON

WHITE

BLACK

ALL FOUR TYPES OF MANGROVES LIVE IN THE BAY AND ARE PART OF THE ECOSYSTEM

THE DAMAGE

MANGROVES provide nutrients for the dinoflagellates.

NARROW, SHALLOW ENTRANCE TO THE BAY traps dinoflagellates inside.

WATER DEPTH, TEMPERATURE AND SALINITY allow dinoflagellates to thrive.

PREVAILING WINDS from east to west prevent the dinoflagellates from flushing out.

HURRICANE MARIA PASSED OVER VIEQUES ON SEPTEMBER 20TH WITH SUSTAINED WINDS OF 155 MPH AND HIGHER GUSTS DAMAGING COASTAL MANGROVE FORESTS AND VEGETATION.

In 2018, Ernesto Medina, Elvira Cuevas and Elix Hernández Figueroa of the Tropical Dasonomy International Institute (USDA FS IITF) & UPR–Rio Piedras did a scientific study of the damage inflicted on the mangrove forests of the bioluminescent bay by Hurricane Maria in 2017. IN A STUDY OF THE MANGROVES IN A 39 (KM2) PRIORITY AREA AT THE MOUTH OF THE BAY, IT WAS DETERMINED:

17% THE CHALLENGE

3,000

IN 30 YRS. It‘s estimated that 3,000 mangroves trees are needed to replace those lost in the storm. They could take up to 30 years to propagate on their own. 56

DEAD VEGETATION

THE GOOD NEWS

500+ 70%

MANGROVES PLANTED

PROPAGATION SUCCESS RATE

BARE WATER 4% LAND 35% UNDER

THE GLOW!

3,319,267 PER GAL.

better than ever

MARK MARTIN BRAS

MANGROVE PROJECT V I E Q U E S C O N S E R VAT I O N A N D H I S T O R I C A L T R U S T

BY AMY GORDON

hances are you already know that Vieques is home to the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. But do you know why the conditions here lead to such a striking glow? Several factors, like a narrow mouth and shallow depth, contribute to maintaining the health of the glowing plankton, but one of the most important is the mangroves that surround Puerto Mosquito (the bay’s official name). You can easily spot these vital trees with tangled roots around the perimeter. “The mangroves maintain the morphology of the bay,” explains Lirio Márquez D’Acunti, project manager and executive director of the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. “The bioluminescent plankton need vitamins from the mangroves in order to survive.” Mangroves also generate blue carbon, which is extremely important in this age of climate change, and they protect against storm surge and wind. The day after Hurricane Maria ravaged Vieques in September 2017, the island awoke to a startling scene. Utter devastation in the form of displaced trees, collapsed buildings, and downed power lines was visible everywhere. But some of the damage inflicted

on Puerto Mosquito wasn’t as simple to see. The road to get there was unnavigable, and access only got more complicated from there. It wasn’t until a year later that scientists from the Center for Applied Tropical The VCHT decided Ecology and Conservation at the to take action upon University of Puerto Rico were able to make an assessment of just hearing that the how extensively the storm affected mangroves forests would need help to the bay. Their conclusion? They restore what was needed 6,000 new mangroves to damaged by replace what was destroyed, an Hurricane Maria. alarming number. But even more

BEN SCHEELK THE OCEAN FOUNDATION 57

A CLOSER LOOK

WHAT IS BLUE CARBON?

WHY ARE MANGROVES IMPORTANT TO THE BIOLUMINESCENT BAY?

Coastal ecosystems, particularly mangrove systems, capture and reduce atmospheric carbon at a much faster rate than terrestrial forests. In fact, they can store up to 10 times more carbon than comparable tropical rainforests! The carbon captured and stored by the coastal environments is called blue carbon.

They help to control water flow in and out of the bay by protecting the mouth of the bay from erosion.

Mangroves store more carbon per unit area than any other ecosystem on Earth. Mangrove forests cover just 0.1 percent of the planet’s surface but store up to 10 times more carbon per hectare than terrestrial forests. This carbon-storing superpower makes mangroves a critical part of the solution to climate change.

They are the habitat for many species.

They are natural filters that help maintain water quality. They release vitamins and other nutrients back into the water and soil.

Mangroves capture and hold carbon acting as what is called a “carbon sink.” They help maintain a high salinity in the bay by filtering the salt and then exuding it.

White mangroves have special glands in the back of their leaves to eliminate the salt. When the leaves fall back into the bay the salt goes with them.

Sources: thebluecarboninitiative.org, oceanservice. noaa.gov, https://sustainabletravel.org/

L E A R N I N G M O M E N T: Lick the back of a mangrove leaf. It will taste salty!

A CLOSER LOOK AT

THE MANGROVE PROJECT PROCESS

COLLECTION BY SPECIES Red Mangrove Propagules

STAGE 1: ROOTING •Propagules are placed in

STAGE 2: BRACKISH WATER •Seedlings are placed in cotton

fresh water (less than 1000 ppm) and 60% shade. The system circulates fresh water and fish (Tilapia) to nourish the propagules.

bags filled with sand and rocks. Bags are placed in brackish water tanks (1000-3000 ppm) and 60% shade while adapting to the brackish water.

3: SALT WATER •OnceSTAGE plants have produced

leaves and branches, the bags are placed in a salt water tank (3000 ppm or higher) and continue under 60% shade.

>>> MONITORING

Once the plants are planted in the priority site at the mouth of the bay there is strict data collection and monitoring of temperature, humidity, heat index and growth rate. JULY 2020

STAGE 4: DIRECT SUN •During this stage, plants in the salt water tank are exposed to direct sunlight.

5: TRANSPLANT •TheSTAGE bags with the plants are

allowed to drain for a day before transplanting. They are ready to transport and transplant in the bay.

NOVEMBER 2021

THE GOOD NEWS! To date, over 500 plants have been transplanted to the bay with 70% success. The transplants are now producing seeds and adventitious roots! That’s great news!

BEN SCHEELK THE OCEAN FOUNDATION

troubling was the projection that without human intervention, the forest would take up to 30 years to restore itself. “Everyone in the room looked at each other and said no, we have to do something!,” says Lirio, “and so the project began.” The group formulated a plan to create a full-scale mangrove nursery where they could successfully grow new trees and eventually return them to the bay. Erick Bermúdez Carambot, the Mangrove Project biologist, undertook designing a system to grow mangroves in a controlled environment that gave them the greatest chance of survival. “Mangroves start out as propagules, not seeds, meaning that by the time they fall from the tree, they’re already full plants,” explains Mark Martín Bras, Field Research Director of the Mangrove Project. To begin the regrowing process, Mark, Erick and the team collected propagules from the bay and brought them to the nursery on the grounds of the former Barbosa School in Puerto Real. The first stop was a tank of fresh water. “Early in life,” explains Lirio, “propagules expend a lot of energy keeping the salt from coming in. By beginning the plants in fresh water, they’re much more

efficient. A peek into the tank and you’ll spy tilapia swimming about, too. They provide nutrients to the growing plants.” After two to three months, they transferred the mangroves to brackish water with a lower level of salinity, a stepping stone to moving to a tank of salt water that mimics the conditions of the bay. “That way, when they are planted, they survive and continue to grow,” says Pedro Ayala, the Mangrove Project nursery manager. That initial presentation from the UPR team was back in January 2019, and today the Mangrove Project is well underway. Staffed by just a handful of employees and volunteers, it is the most ambitious undertaking ever executed on Vieques, and the first time it’s been done in Puerto Rico. “For us, it’s a sense of pride because it is a Viequense initiative,” points out Lirio, “staffed by Viequenses, happening in Vieques. We purchase most things locally and have used several island contractors. We have created jobs, and on a small island, that is very important.” So far, the team has planted roughly 500 red mangroves, with 2,000 more currently maturing at the nursery. Three more varieties of mangroves (black, 59

white, and button) are cultivated on site, but red is the most vital since it protects the shoreline from erosion. The Mangrove Project aims to return trees to the bay at least once a month, but doing so comes with issues to overcome. The small boat they use can transport only a limited number of people, plants and supplies, so securing enough resources for a bigger vessel is a top priority moving forward. “One of the things we are hoping to do is to find ways to safely expose people to the site,” says Mark. He’d especially like to take students there for handson learning. Hiring more staff and building another greenhouse are also high on the to-do list, but as always, securing capital is the biggest challenge. The Mangrove Project is currently funded by a combination of grassroots efforts and grants, along with in-kind assistance and lots of volunteer hours.

And word is spreading. VCHT has been approached by communities in Piñones and Culebra who want to learn about the project. The Ocean Foundation recently filmed the process and plans to share it on a global scale. For Pedro, getting the word out is paramount. “Perhaps someone who sees it knows someone who can help. Share the story, and get involved.” He says visitors and volunteers are welcome to visit the property, just be sure to schedule in advance. Mark is equally enthusiastic. “This project shows that things can be done in a good, innovative way. It gives us all hope. We can do things to protect against the problems that come from hurricanes and climate change. There is a way. We can do something.”

To learn more about the Mangrove Project and find out how you can help, go to www.vcht.org/bio-bay or stop by the VCHT headquarters across from the Malecón in Esperanza.

WHERE TO DRINK & DINE

insider tip To avoid having to wait at a restaurant or worse yet, not getting a table, please make reservations.

OUR ADVERTISERS For additional listings check www.viequesinsider.com

Isabel II

ROBIN’S BAR 787-231-8484 32 ounce mojitos, artisan drinks, colmado and grocery! Across from Hacienda Tamarindo on 996. Thur & Sun 3-10 PM, Fri & Sat 3-11 PM PM. Closed Mon-Wed.

BIEKES BISTRO 787-435-9339 Caribbean Style Bistro with Puerto Rican cuisine. Speciality Bakery, pastries, custom cakes and sweets. Mon-Fri 11 AM-10 PM, Sat 11 AM-4 PM COQUI FIRE CAFÉ 787-741-0401 Gourmet Mexican food, reservations a must. Mon-Fri 5-9 PM MARSHMALLOW CANDY & COFFEE 787- 930-2365 Espresso, sweets, breakfast, frappes and smoothies. Tues-Sat 7 AM-6 PM RISING ROOST Breakfast, coffee, juice bar. Wed-Sun 8 AM-1 PM Closed Mon & Tue. ST VOODOO’S MAR AZUL On the Water. Quality Pub Food, Awesome Sunsets! Thurs-Mon 4-10 PM, Karaoke Sat. TAVERNA 787- 438-1100 Italian restaurant and pizzeria with vegetarian options and daily specials. Check Facebook for hours and days open.

Esperanza CARAMBOLA RESTAURANT AT THE BLUE 787-741-3318 International Cuisine with a Puerto Rican Twist. Reservations advised. Breakfast Mon-Fri 7 AM-12 PM, Sat & Sun 7 AM-2 PM, Dinner Wed-Sun 5-9 PM Ladies Night -Thurs. 6-9 PM DJ Paul. BANANAS BEACH BAR AND GRILL 787-354-0020 Open air, ocean view with an eclectic menu and social atmosphere. Open Wed-Mon 11 AM-10 PM, Closed Tuesday EL BLOK 787-741-6020 La Placita Restaurant Sat - Mon Breakfast 8 AM-1 PM Thurs-Mon Dinner 5 PM to 10 PM Last seating is at 9:45 PM LAZY JACKS 787-741-5555 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Pizza , burgers, hot & cold sandwiches and more. Where the locals hang out. Sun-Thur 8:30 AM-1 PM Fri & Sat 8:30 AM-2:30 PM

TRADEWINDS 787-710-7440 Fresh Island Fusion. Overlooking the ocean on the Malecón Esperanza. Brunch Sun 9am-2:30 PM Dinner Wed-Sat 5:00 PM-8:30 PM

On 201 AURORA’S CHICKEN & GRILL 787-407-9067 Ribs, lasagna, chicken stew, pork, fried chicken. Rotisserie Chicken Everyday Too! Order take out for the beach! Mon-Sat 11 AM-4:45 PM MANGO’S PUBLIC HOUSE Check Facebook for hours and days open.

On 200

CRAB ISLAND RUM DISTILLERY 787-934-8015 Bar, Food, Tours, Thurs-Sat 12-8 PM

Caterers TITI TATA’S KITCHEN 787-450-6565 Personal chef for groups up to 8 people in your home or vacation villa. YOUR PERSONAL CUISINE BY CHEF WALDO 787-487-4244 Paellas : Entire or Personal bowls Delivery only.

Hours are subject to change. Please check Facebook for current hours. 61

Roses Luxury

Nos especializamos en todo tipo de arreglos florales. Canastas y bandejas personalizadas para esa ocasion tan especial. 787-368-5884 Roses_luxury_PR

Sunset at

Saint Voodoo’s Mar Azul Bar and Grill

Cold Beer Great Food Frozen Drinks Open Thursday~Monday Karaoke Saturday Nights On the water one block from the Ferry Pier~ Isabel II, Vieques 62

So, you’ve fallen in love BY MARYANNE MATHER

DID YOU KNOW? Dogs are allowed on all beaches except Sunbay, Media Luna and Navio. HOWEVER, if your dog is not on a leash you run the risk of a fine. There are many reasons for the leash law, please respect them.

• There are many stray dogs on the island and the beaches. Your dog running on the beach could surprise them in their territory and cause them to attack your dog.

• Vieques is a prime nesting site for Leatherback turtles which are at critical risk of extinction. Dogs will naturally dig if they find a nest, putting the eggs or hatchlings at risk.

with a dog or cat who has adopted you during your visit. Or, you’ve found the perfect addition to your family by searching the Vieques Humane Society (VHS) website viequeshumanesociety.org/adopt. No room in your suitcase? No problem! VHS has lots of experience and success transporting animals off the island. It’s one of the things we do! FOR TRAVEL TO THE CONTINENTAL U.S. YOU’LL NEED: ..................................... J The animal’s health certificate from a veterinarian issued no more than 10 days prior to travel ..................................... J Up-to-date vaccines and rabies certificates ..................................... J An airline-approved travel kennel ..................................... J A plan to get your animal from Vieques to San Juan ..................................... J A check-in with your commercial airline to understand their travel regulations related to temperature, weight, in-cabin or cargo restrictions, reservation needs and costs, check-in time, etc.

If you’re not ready for a pet of your own, consider being the bearer of good tidings. There are loving, stateside families more than happy to welcome these wonderful animals into their lives and homes if we can just get them there. YOU could be the way home. VHS takes care of all the details and covers expenses. Let us know your destination airport and travel dates. We’ll do the rest. Just call 787.741.0209, email us or come by the shelter to meet the animals waiting to “go home.” n

This all might sound a bit overwhelming, but don’t despair. VHS is here to help. To get started, call VHS at 787.741.0209 or email Cate@viequeshumanesociety.org with a picture of the animal and the location where you found it. All this takes time, so if you’ve decided to adopt, get the process started ASAP. Your action will save time and a beautiful animal’s life!

www.viequeshumanesociety.org

RESERVE: WWW.ELBLOK.COM/EAT-DRINK RESERVE@ELBLOK.COM 787-741-6020

B R E A K FAST

DINNER

SATURDAY - MONDAY 8AM - 1PM

THURSDAY - MONDAY 5PM-10PM

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