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OSCILLOSCOPES  How an oscilloscope can help you with fault-finding  Step-by-step checking of various components  Pick the best oscilloscopes and accessories

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T R E P X E T N A T S N I

OSCILLOSCOPES THE POWER OF A WAVE

Oscilloscopes might seem intimidating but Rob Marshall embarks on a voyage of discovery and finds that they are one of the most useful weapons in your fault-finding armoury.

A typical motorcar can have over 100 ECUs, many of which communicate with each other. While being self-diagnosing, they are not infallible and oscilloscope knowledge can give a DIYer the edge over a technician that has never used one.

ust as the hand wave is one of the most powerful means of communication and the ocean wave is one of the most powerful forces in nature, the oscilloscope’s wave is one of the most powerful tools in automotive diagnosis. Yet, why are not just DIYers but also many professionals guilty of following fault codes blindly and replacing perfectly serviceable parts needlessly? Perhaps it is human nature to take the easiest route out of a problem. Should a fault code point to a particular component, your repair might be successful if you take the information at face value. Yet, the gamble may not pay off, resulting in you squandering both time and money, especially as many suppliers do not provide refunds for serviceable electrical components that were pre-installed. How do you know, for example, that the fault code arose from faulty wiring, a deteriorated connector, a failing ECU, or even from another

component? The answer is that you do not, unless you have investigated further. Regular CM readers appreciate our emphasis on taking data from your car as it is running in real-time. You can obtain this by several means. Hand-held serial diagnostic tools, which plug into the car’s 16-pin On Board Diagnostic (OBD) socket, can do this to an extent. Multimeters are also useful for gathering valuable data, especially on a nonrunning engine. Yet, as oscilloscopes can take 400 million samples every second, they tend to be better suited in this

OHM'S LAW  A basic appreciation of how voltage, current and resistance interact is critical to understanding oscilloscopes. Ohm’s Law is: Volt (Volts) = Current (Amps) x Resistance (Ohms Ω) Voltage is the ‘pressure’ that pushes current through a circuit, the effectiveness of which depends on the resistance it encounters. Both voltage and resistance can be measured effectively with the low current probes, supplied with a multimeter and oscilloscope, provided that you note their voltage limits. Measuring current is more complicated but can be performed in a non-invasive way, using a DC current clamp. These measure current that pass through a circuit without having to tap into it. Its jaws are simply placed over the cable.

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regard. Like multimeters, oscilloscopes can also measure directly from the affected component and not just via the OBD socket. Yet, Philip Rutt, Technical Support of Pico Automotive, part of Pico Technology and our technical partner for this feature, advises that, “An oscilloscope measures voltage over time. As powerful as this simple premise might be, it cannot replace every other tool you own, such as exhaust gas analysers and technical data.”

Software considerations While the modern oscilloscope was developed by Tektronix in 1946, it was not intended for automotive use. While Crypton Technology incorporated an oscilloscope in its professional engine tuning equipment as far back as the 1960s, carmakers and repair shops realised that oscilloscopes were increasingly useful to capture live data, as automotive electronics became more widespread and sophisticated. Consider, however, that oscilloscopes are not unique to the automotive field and are prevalent in many disciplines. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

WHAT DOES AN OSCILLOSCOPE DO?  An oscilloscope measures voltage over time, produced from electrical signals sent to and from your car’s components. It turns these signals into a waveform, so you can view them in real-time. Oscilloscopes introduce neither voltage, nor current into a circuit and, therefore, cannot cause electronic damage. This is useful, when looking at CANbus data circuits, for example, which should never have power introduced into them from an external source.

Pico Technology might have started business in 1991, for example, but its first specialised automotive product appeared five years later. Today, Pico Automotive is a highly-respected part of the business that produces oscilloscopes for both Original Equipment and aftermarket garages. Mr Rutt highlights that this is relevant, because: “Our automotive oscilloscope uses our free PicoScope® 7 (or earlier PicoScope® 6) automotive software, which plots the data and produces the waveform. It also includes free updates, pre-set tests and help pages, making it ideal for DIYers and professional technicians. The separate PicoDiagnostics® software provides specific ‘state of health’ checks, if desired. Our oscilloscopes can run either PicoScope or PicoDiagnostics; nonautomotive oscilloscopes do not include these automotive features.” Mr Rutt also highlights that, even with the appropriate automotive oscilloscope, the data you gather might be useless, when you cannot compare, or reference it, with anything. This is becoming a more widespread problem, which is why professional garages make regular investments to obtain data that ranges from wiring diagrams to particular specifications, such as sensor resistance values. Much of this information is inaccessible to the typical car owner. The nearest costless solution, used by professionals and DIYers, is Pico Automotive’s unique free waveform library, which is accessed via the PicoScope software and can be seen online at www.picoauto.com/library/ waveform-library. The waveform library browser contains over 6000 different waveforms, categorised by vehicle make and model, built by PicoScope users globally. If a healthy waveform for your car exists, you can superimpose it over your car’s waveform to compare them. The library acts in a similar way to a community, with users contributing actively to help each other. Aside from aiding other repairers and owners, it is worthwhile for you to save healthy waveform examples from your vehicle, especially if it is a particularly rare model, to make your future diagnostic operations easier. It is worth noting that no other automotive oscilloscope manufacturer offers the same level of back-up, hence our recommendation. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

Pico Automotive’s oscilloscope is called a PicoScope and it allows you to see the signals that are sent and received between an ECU (Electronic Control Unit) and other electrical components. From that, you can deduce what it is not sent, or received. Therefore, you can test any sensor (or actuator) and, once you have your data, you can compare it against a known good waveform from Pico Automotive’s free library.

Pico Automotive supplies its PicoScope oscilloscopes to independent repairers, main dealerships and car manufacturers. For non-franchised repairers, the PicoScope oscilloscope operates with PicoScope 6 and the latest PicoScope 7 software, or the separate PicoDiagnostics.

This eight-channel PicoScope 4823 oscilloscope uses the conventional BNC (Bayonet Neill-Concelman) connectors.

The latest PicoScope oscilloscopes use PicoBNC+ connections that not only can power accessories but also allow the software to recognise the equipment used and confirm their status automatically. Yet, older BNC probes are still supported on these newer models.

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UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

ROB’S TOP TIP An oscilloscope measures voltage over time.

The free PicoScope and PicoDiagnostics software programmes provide step-by-step guidance, including making connections, how to take the measurements and interpret them. For specific information, you can use the free-to-use waveform library in the Pico Forum.

An attenuator converts high voltage inputs into those low enough not to damage the oscilloscope. Newer PicoScopes have a 10:1 attenuator incorporated into the lead (part no: TA499) as pictured on page 7.

OSCILLOSCOPE COMPRESSION TEST Performed on a 2015 Volkswagen 2.0-litre TDI T5 van, this simple demonstration shows how an oscilloscope can diagnose traditional faults without any mechanical intervention, by measuring voltage over time. Take a simple compression test as an example. Many DIYers are familiar with connecting a physical manometer to each cylinder, prior to cranking over the engine and comparing the readings. The pressure figure is not essential at this stage. As the starter motor turns the crankshaft with the spark plugs in-situ, it meets resistance from each cylinder on the compression stroke, which places extra strain on the battery and results in a voltage drop as it tries to support the current delivery. This means that you can identify compression discrepancies, by analysing the voltage as the engine turns over.  As you do not want the engine to start, it is a good idea to identify and remove the fuel pump fuse (arrowed). Note that this is likely to trigger an engine management fault code, which will need resetting later.

 Connect the oscilloscope lead to Channel A. The other end of the probe has two breakouts; the first goes to the battery’s positive terminal (pictured inset), the other one is earthed to the bodywork (not pictured).

The engine is cranked for a specified period on the starter motor with the accelerator depressed. The software interprets the voltage signals and plots the results graphically, once cranking ceases.

This PicoDiagnostics software provides clear, easy to understand procedural instructions, which guide you to enter specific information, such as the number of cylinders.

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UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

As the differences are within a 20% tolerance, the engine is in good order. This test is especially useful for diesels, where removing a glow-plug can be tricky and the high compressions involved dictate more specialist pressure gauges (manometers).

The software also allows you to see the waveform, if desired. However, the system does not identify which cylinder is which. To do so, you would need to use a current clamp on an injector, or coil pick-up (as seen later) to identify the firing order.

OSCILLOSCOPE BATTERY CONDITION TEST The compression test uses a single oscilloscope channel. Checking battery condition is best performed with two channels, so that a pair of parameters can be measured in real-time. This example tests the battery in two ways. Firstly, it measures the voltage to establish the state of charge. It then determines amps to establish the battery’s state of health, or its remaining capacity. CM’s January 2019 issue provides more detailed information about how to look after flooded 12-volt batteries.

As with Step A2, connect the voltage lead to the oscilloscope’s Channel A, with its positive lead connected to the appropriate battery terminal. The second lead is attached to the negative post.

The current clamp’s connection mounts to the oscilloscope’s second channel. The model used here is Pico Automotive’s PicoScope 4425A, which can power the current clamp, so that accessory does not require any batteries.

The other end of the current clamp has the main battery cable placed within its jaws. Note that you need a current clamp that reads Direct Current (DC) not just Alternating Current (AC) to achieve a reading.

As battery analysis is also a PicoDiagnostics guided test, it prompts you to enter specific information. This includes the vehicle’s voltage and battery technology. Use an infrared thermometer to establish the temperature.

The battery capacity (CCA) should be stated on the battery itself, which you need to enter into the software. If you are unsure of the method of measurement, enter ‘SAE’, which stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers.

The analysis takes seconds. The results show that, despite being in a low state of charge, this battery has 594 amps of its original 760 remaining and, therefore, it requires recharging, rather than replacement.

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UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

ROB’S TOP TIP An oscilloscope is a non-invasive means of collecting live data.

CLASH OF THE TOOLS

OSCILLOSCOPE VS MULTIMETER: CAMSHAFT SENSOR TEST The following tests follow each other and build in complexity. Instead of demonstrating the PicoDiagnostics software, they use the separate and latest PicoScope 7 program to capture the waveforms. To explain why an oscilloscope’s ability to extract 400 million samples of data every second is essential to obtain accurate results, we have also used a multimeter in this straightforward camshaft sensor test, to see if it generates any differing voltage readings.  The PicoScope software focuses more on waveform capture and analysis. Note that the options for testing electric vehicles, threephase circuits and taking pressure measurements are possible but beyond the realms of most DIYers.

A variety of sensors can be selected via a drop-down menu. You need to select the operating parameters of the sensor being interrogated; our example is a camshaft sensor that works on the Hall-effect principle.

The software guides you through the procedure. Consult the notes to provide a broader understanding. The diagrams, which show how to connect the hardware to the component correctly, are especially useful.

As per the on-screen instructions, the test lead in this example incorporates a probe. One end connects to the oscilloscope's 'channel A' and its break-out earth lead attaches to the negative battery terminal.

Not all camshaft sensors are the same as this one, which has a reference voltage of 5 volts. You need to enter a suitable scale for the appropriate channel. Here, we have chosen 10 volts for Channel A.

With the engine idling, the signal produced is shown as a waveform. When you have a suitable waveform to analyse, switch-off the oscilloscope and shut-down the engine. This one looks healthy, with defined and even on-and-off switching.

By identifying the positive output circuit, with the aid of a wiring diagram (or even using trial-and-error) enter the circuit by back-probing into it. This is a non-invasive procedure, further details about which follows.

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Continued on page

UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

ROB’S TOP TIP To access the waveform library, you need an automotive PicoScope and your free forum password.

 A multimeter was also connected to the camshaft sensor during the same test but it recorded only 3.4 volts. As it cannot tolerate the fast switching signals, it takes an average, which may fool you into thinking that a fault exists.

The voltage, recorded by the oscilloscope, is sufficiently close to five volts to allow us to conclude that both the sensor and its entire circuit were working correctly while the engine was running.

These waveform spikes tend to be caused by electromagnetic interference, picked-up by the oscilloscope from neighbouring components. They may not be ‘dirty’ signals, however, and could be useful.

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If you deduce that the spikes are irrelevant to your tests, the PicoScope software allows you to apply a filter to smooth the waveforms, making them easier to read and interpret.

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CRANKSHAFT & CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONISATION

As the camshaft sensor is in good order, we can check the crankshaft sensor at the same time to verify not only its integrity but also the cam-crank timing. For this, a new probe is plugged into the oscilloscope’s 'channel B'...

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...and the probe’s other end inserts into an adaptor, which is backprobed into the positive output circuit of the crankshaft sensor. The crankshaft sensor on this engine is not easy to access, as you can see.

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The camshaft signal is in blue, the crankshaft is red. Over a single second, you can view the sheer volume of data generated, because the oscilloscope can extract up to four million samples per second.

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Follow the advice from step C6 and enter the appropriate voltage scale into the software. Afterwards, activate the oscilloscope via the laptop/PC and start the vehicle’s engine to begin capturing the live data.

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Reducing the time scale and separating the cam and crank signals allows you to judge if any flywheel teeth are missing. The lack of gaps also shows there to be no drop-out, suggesting that both sensors (and their circuits) are in good order.

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UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

CHECKING TIMING USING THE FUEL INJECTOR SIGNAL  By using the third 'channel C' on the oscilloscope, you can check when the injector opens and closes. For this, you need a current clamp, which is a Pico accessory. While we have stated that an oscilloscope measures volts over time...

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...it can assess current flow (amps), because current cannot flow without voltage being present as per Ohm’s Law. Working carefully, cylinder one’s fuel injector wiring is placed within the current clamp’s jaws.

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While the PicoScope 7 software identifies the current clamp, you will need to enter a suitable scale for the channel – in this case, Channel C is coloured green. Start the engine and capture the data, as before.

The green waveform (injector current) shows when the fuel injector is opening and closing. The uniform wave patterns show that the injector is in good order and their peaks, in relation to the camshaft signal, indicate consistent timing.

advantage of checking current is that the circuit is interrogated C21 An under load. When compared against a 'healthy waveform', a damaged circuit would be evident, if the green peaks were smaller.

As we know that this engine is running well, the waveforms indicate healthy crank and cam sensors, correct timing and a fuel injector in good order. To help other repairers, you can consider uploading it to the waveform library.

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also that you can upload C23 Consider waveform files onto your PC. The Pico waveform library also allows you to upload and mark waveforms ’fault examples’, and you can save the files on your PC for later analysis.

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A further step is to check the voltage from a HT lead/secondary ignition circuit. As the example car is a diesel, we can measure the voltage from the fuel injector, by placing the tip of the Coil on Plug and Signal probe on top of the injector.

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This probe works by detecting the residual voltage that ‘leaks’ from plastic bodied electrical components. When connected to the oscilloscope’s fourth channel ‘D’, the voltage signals (brown) are displayed.

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UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

ROB’S TOP TIP Never cut corners, by buying a non-automotive oscilloscope.

IDENTIFYING FAULTS FROM THE WAVEFORM

 Check Pico Automotive’s waveform library to see if there is a pre-existing waveform that another user has uploaded in the past. This one is from an Alfa Romeo 147 1.6 Twin Spark.

 The camshaft sensor (blue) and crankshaft sensor (red) can be superimposed over your waveform. The other measurements (intake manifold pressure in green and the light brown cylinder pressure) are more advanced functions.

This example shows a Vauxhall Astra with a running fault, showing fault codes relating to the camshaft sensor. The sensor was replaced but the problem persisted. This waveform was generated.

On this different vehicle, the fault code reader identified codes relating to the cam sensor and cam/crank synchronisation. Both sensors were renewed to no avail. This waveform was captured – can you see anything wrong with the blue cam signal?

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Wiggling the wiring to the sensor caused this ripple to appear in the waveform, indicating a loss in voltage. Therefore, wiring loom damage is breaking the circuit.

The cam sensor operates with a 4 volts signal but it is exhibiting random spikes that peak at 12.7 volts. This indicates not a break in the wiring but a short-circuit, which is responsible for the ECU registering a fault.

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Continued on page

ROB’S TOP TIP

UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

Even cam/crank sensors on the same car model may not share the same specification.

OSCILLOSCOPE ACCESSORIES

Oscilloscopes are not limited to engine sensors and fuel injector tests; they can do so much more. Body sensors can be tested just like engine sensors, such as those that monitor parking distances, or even the keyless entry system. You can also interrogate the CANbus communication network. Yet, for other operations, such as measuring pressure, you need to invest in various accessories that suit your requirements. The following examples give a further indication about how you can supplement your oscilloscope’s capabilities and boost your knowledge as your confidence grows.

Back-pinning probes insert between the sides of the wire insulation and the connector seals, behind the multi-plug terminals. When using them, take care not to damage the wire insulation, or the terminal seals.

Where back-pinning is impractical, the piercing probe penetrates the insulation, facilitating a contact. However, the wire’s insulation must be restored afterwards with sealant, to avoid moisture penetration and subsequent corrosion.

Break-out leads are useful to connect into a circuit in a non-invasive manner. A worthwhile purchase from Pico Automotive is this kit, containing eleven sets with six different universal leads and one set of six back-pinning probes.

 While a PicoScope can be used via the OBD socket with a CAN Test Box (£175), not all signals from the socket are CANbus data signals. Usefully, the PicoScope can decode more than just CANbus.

More bespoke break-out leads have the appearance of mini-wiring looms, with their moulded click-fit multipin plugs. Pico Automotive stocks a range of the most typical leads, which avoid the needs for backpinning where access is difficult.

BEWARE OF HIGH VOLTAGES  A conventional combustion engines car may have a 12-volt battery but certain components run at far higher values. Fuel injectors can run at over 50 volts, for example. Apart from risking damage to your equipment, high voltages are extremely dangerous. Once voltages exceed approximately 40 volts, it becomes more likely to overcome your skin’s natural electrical resistance. Once it does so, only 0.08 amps can stop your heart.

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As between 100 and 600 volts and 150 amps of Direct Current are found most commonly in the high-voltage circuits of certain hybrid and electric vehicles, we recommend strongly that you do not interrogate these systems, without participating in a suitable training course and buying the specialised insulated equipment. More details on EV and hybrid safety can be found in the September 2019 back issue.

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UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

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advantage of checking current is that the circuit is interrogated C21 An under load. When compared against a 'healthy waveform', a damaged circuit would be evident, if the green peaks were smaller.

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UNDERSTANDING OSCILLOSCOPES

ROB’S TOP TIP Break your oscilloscope procedure into three steps: Connect. Run. Read.

You can test this type by unbolting it and attaching test adaptors. Firstly, it must be earthed to the engine, using a suitable strap. While you can buy one, it is not a difficult DIY proposition to make an earth lead at home.

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You can test the Low Tension (LT), or primary ignition circuit, by back-pinning the wiring loom’s electrical connector as it enters the coil. Yet, as voltages can exceed the PicoScope’s maximum voltage inputs, you will need to use an attenuator.

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A pressure transducer kit (£749) is a useful accessory, because you can view inlet manifold, oil, fuel pressures and vacuum in real-time. While favoured by professional workshops, its price may place it outside some DIYers’ budgets.

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BUYING ADVICE  Due to the unique combination of the free PicoScope/ PicoDiagnostics softwares, the user-friendly instructions and the waveform library, plus taking the advice of professional technicians and their technical trainers, we recommend Pico Automotive’s oscilloscopes, which the company calls PicoScopes. Buy a PicoScope intended only for automotive applications, which works with the appropriate software. Consider how many channels you need and balance your needs against what you can afford. Yet, avoid the false economy of limiting your capabilities. Look also at the voltage limits of your oscilloscope. While exceeding it risks damaging its circuits beyond repair, an attenuator is an accessory that can increase the oscilloscope’s voltage capabilities. For example, the TA197 10:1 attenuator means that a 10-volt input will appear on the waveform as a 1-volt signal. Launched in April 2020, the four-channel PicoScope 4425A (£969) boasts PicoBNC+ connectivity, allowing it to power accessories that negates the need for batteries. 16-bit enhanced resolution and 400 samples per second, along with 20MHz bandwidth capability means that it can read FlexRay and CAN network signals, coupled with USB 3.0 data speeds. A two-channel alternative, the 4225A (£599) is also available. Superior value comes with starter

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By using the Secondary Ignition pick-up (from Step E9) to test the secondary ignition circuit with a set of HT extension leads, you can assess and measure each of the four integral coils in turn.

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Low-pressure testing of positive and negative pressure pumps is possible with the £149 sight block kit, used with the pressure transducer kit. A glow-plug adaptor kit (£299) is also available for direct diesel compression testing.

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WITH THANKS TO Pico Automotive www.picoauto.com 01480 396395 www.facebook.com/picoauto Pico Auto Forum: www.picoauto.com/support

kits, costing £1145 and £695 accordingly, which bundle several useful accessories. Exercise caution, when buying second-hand. While Pico Automotive’s software continues to support its older oscilloscopes, they could represent poorer value than a new one, despite being cheaper. You risk buying an oscilloscope that has been damaged internally, by being used on high voltage systems. You will also be missing out on newer functionality that is only available with the PicoBNC+ connector. If your budget cannot stretch to a new PicoScope, check-out second-hand 4425 or 4423 models.

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Tales from the workshop Finding & fixing advice from our garage proprietor Steve Rothwell RENAULT MEGANE

Two not one

 When this 2009 Renault Megane Dynamique 1.5 dCi was bought along to me to have a look at a vibration problem I discovered that the vehicle had two reasons for the one complaint. The owner was complaining of a vibration at speeds above 50mph which were amplified when braking. My first concern was that the problem may have been due to a suspension fault which can often give both symptoms. After checking the suspension joints and bushes, all of which appeared good, I moved on to check the brakes and the tyres. Both of which I found defective. The brake rear discs had corroded badly and the rear tyres were both worn and misshapen, showing signs of internal failure. The remedy wasn’t cheap as the brake discs on the Megane come complete with the hub bearing, but they along with the tyres were necessary to rectify the problems. Once all finished the owner remarked that it was like driving a different vehicle.

MERCEDES-BENZ C-CLASS

The condition of both the tyres and the brake discs were contributing to the poor driving experience.

BMW X5

Pulsating light problem

Corroded brake pipe

 When the owner of this 2007 Mercedes-Benz C220 CDi reversed into his drive with the nearside indicator going, his waiting kids informed him that the rear lights looked like a disco, flashing away in sequence as the indicator went off and on. Asking me to have a quick look I discovered that the connecting plug on the rear light cluster had appeared to have suffered from a poor connection and this had caused the terminals to heat up. The warmed-up terminals had then accelerated the problem causing the plug to melt. The bulb holder is readily available as is the plug repair kit so it didn’t take too long to get the lights back into the working order without the unwanted pulsating. I did also check the other side to make sure that the same fate was not about to occur on the offside. That plug though was clean and making a good contact.

 There is often a misconception that low-mileage equals less maintenance required. This is not the case and problems can develop even when the vehicle is not travelling far. One of the areas that corrosion can affect regardless of miles is in the braking system. It is not only the discs that can be subjected to unwanted rusting, but also the brake pipes and hose ferrules. This 2006 BMW X5 3.0 diesel had like many other motors not been used much during the first half of 2020, leaving the owner to suspect that his lower mileage would result in a lower service and MOT bill. Even though the motor hadn’t Unfortunately the motor covered many miles the brake pipe had still been sitting out had corroded and needed renewing. on the road during the lockdown period and so this had not prevented the rust from doing its worst. Before this X5 could get its new MOT certificate it was going to need a couple of brake hoses at the front. The metal ferrules clamping the hose onto the union had rusted and could fail allowing the sudden loss of brake pressure.

The terminal in the plug had began to heat up due to a poor connection accelerating the failure of the connection.

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VAUXHALL ASTRA

Coolant loss

 Having topped-up the coolant a couple of weeks earlier the owner of this 2010 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 was upset to see the coolant reservoir level had dropped once again. When he came along to see me I had a quick look around the engine bay and discovered the tell-tale pink marks that gave away the fact that coolant had been escaping around the thermostat housing. The owner was happy to let me replace this and also asked for a price to replace the cambelt on the motor. The cambelt on the 1.6 is quite a simple job and so I was able to give a price slightly lower than he was expecting. I did also recommend whilst he was having the work done to go the whole way and also have the water pump replaced. This he agreed to and I was pleased he had, because when the timing cover was stripped off, I discovered the same tell-tale marks of antifreeze around the water pump, showing that there had also been problems in this area with leakage. Once all was back together the owner could forget any further coolant loss problems for a while and could also be confident the cambelt was good for a few years.

FIAT PUNTO

Trouble with cooling system

VOLKSWAGEN SCIROCCO

Window mechanism failure

 On the last couple of operations of the driver’s window, the owner of this 2008 VW Scirocco 2.0 TDI had heard a couple of strange noises that she described to me as scrapes. Once the window stopped working altogether in the midway position she managed to connect the noise to the impending failure of the window. She did though wish she had made this connection earlier, as now the window was stuck partially open and the rain had started. By the time she reached me she was slightly wet and not too happy. The regulator on the Volkswagen does come as a separate unit from the motor and this did at least help keep the cost down. This is also quite a quick job to carry-out and with the local dealer having the part in stock it meant I was able to turn the job round and get the Scirocco back to her that afternoon. The rain had actually stopped by then.

The leak was from the small outlet which also houses the coolant temperature sensor meaning that the Fiat now also had a new CTS.

 The engines on the old Fiat Punto such as this 2003 1242cc Active which had now been brought along for me to look at, are one of the simplest to work on and normally give little problems. One of the great things about this engine is that the cambelt can break without doing any damage, a rare commodity in the motoring world. There were no problems with the cambelt on this one though as it had been replaced less than seven months ago. The concern of the owner was the coolant loss which meant that the header tank needed topping-up every week. Small leaks can sometimes be difficult to spot as the escaping coolant often then evaporates leaving no trace. Putting the pressure tester on the cooling system of this Punto I saw the pressure slowly drop, proving that somewhere there was a leak. Eventually tracking it down to the water outlet at the back of the cylinder-head next to the inlet manifold, the problem was found not to be too serious. The small outlet which holds the temperature sensor, comes complete with the new sensor and although only held in place with two bolts, it is clipped into the end of the inlet manifold meaning it must come out at the correct angle. Once the job was completed the cooling system was bled out.

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The thermostat housing leak was spotted first but the water pump had also been leaking.

Once the motor was removed the failed cable in the mechanism was easily spotted.

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Tales from the Workshop HYUNDAI GETZ

Rusty nuts

The top nut came away easily, but the extensive corrosion on the lower nut meant that this was never going to be easy.

 A conversation with a colleague in the trade confirmed that I am not the only one who feels that the average age of the vehicles on the road is becoming older. There are of course plenty of newer vehicles about, but it seems that ten-years-old is now not considered as ancient as it once was. In fact ,standing in his yard we had a look around and the newest motor was a 2013 Honda whilst the oldest was a 1999 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 Club which was still in daily service and showed no signs of giving up just yet. This goes to demonstrate just how reliable the motor car has become, but it does throwup a few problems. The 2004 Hyundai Getz GSi that was bought into me with an annoying knocking noise was still a good runner. The source of the noise turned out to be the antiroll bar link arms which had worn balljoints. Replacement should be a quick and simple task, but the corrosion on the lower retaining nut on this one meant the easiest way to remove it was to grind through the side. The top joint was easily released which helped make the job slightly less traumatic.

VOLKSWAGEN TOUAREG

FORD FOCUS

Non-smoker owner

Bonnet bother

 The owner of this 2007 VW Touareg 3.0 TDI was like many drivers now a non-smoker, and so had little use for the cigarette lighter in the centre console. The power outlet was used at fairly regular intervals to charge their mobiles when needed. On one of these occasions the owner, needing to charge the phone, realised that the power outlet was not working. Looking through the owner’s handbook they checked the fuse layout to discover that there were actually three separate fuses for the three power outlets in the vehicle. When renewing the blown fuse, they discovered that it quickly blew again. Changing tactics they used one of the other outlets to charge the mobile and then brought the motor along to me the next day to check things out. Because the cigarette lighter was not used, it had been tossed-out at some point and lost, which meant that when the power outlet was not being used to charge anything, it was left open to any detritus that was floating around in the vehicle. Time had allowed build-up with debris which was now appearing to turn into corrosion and short-out the connections. A good spray and clean with electrical cleaner was sufficient to restore the outlet to full working power and I even found a cover to save the problem reoccurring.

 Probably not having been opened since its last visit to a workshop, the bonnet on this 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 petrol was now refusing to open for me. I did call the owner who confirmed my suspicions that he hadn’t needed to open the bonnet so hadn’t tried. The failure point on the Ford Focus Mk1 is the cable from the key-operated release in the front grille, to the catch on the front panel. There is a small plastic clip that can fail, along with the cable itself. There are a few different methods that can be used to Accessing the outer cable and release the bonnet, and the then gripping and turning it one I often favour is to grab may often release the bonnet. the outer section of cable with A new cable will still need to a pair of sturdy grips by going be ordered up to gain a fix. up under the front and then twisting it to try and release the bonnet catch. This is often but not always successful and is certainly easier when the motor is up on the ramp. If the cable twists off without releasing the bonnet the next step is to go through the grille with an extra-long screwdriver to operate the catch through the section the cable was attached to.

The cigarette lighter socket which was only used as a power outlet had been allowed to accumulate an amount of debris causing the unit to short-out.

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SKODA KODIAQ

@febi.bilstein

Haldex service

MERCEDES-BENZ 190E

 The Haldex coupling on the VAG range is something I have often been asked about and from my years spent in the workshop I also know it is often overlooked. This Skoda Kodiaq belongs to one of our readers (Mr M J O’Driscoll) who originally asked me The filter before and after cleaning and remember for some details so that this vehicle has only covered 20,000 miles. he could service his 2017 Skoda Kodiaq 4x4. One of his concerns was the Haldex coupling and I am pleased to report that he completed the job without any problems. He did also send in the pictures of the unit and the mesh filter, and as this vehicle had only covered under 20,000 miles, I believe it would be good to share the pictures and the rundown of the job. Mr M J O’Driscoll told me that he found the Haldex fluid easy to drain and the fluid came out looking clean. He also mentioned that as there is no external filter on the coupling he decided to buy a fitting kit – 2x6m bolts plus two O-rings. He then decided then to remove the pump. This turned out to be a wise move as the mesh filter on the pump was partly blocked, and this can be seen in the pictures. This was a bit of a surprise to us both as the VW is only three years old and has done less than 20,000 miles. Because of this I thought it was a prudent warning to any other VAG owners who’s vehicle has the Haldex coupling.

CITROËN C3

Misfire mayhem

 This little 2004 Citroën C3 SX 1.4 just about reached me under its own steam. The engine was only firing on three cylinders and in Corrosion from the washer fluid case this had been missed by the had caused the injector to fail. driver the engine management light was on indicating a fault. The first job was to read off the codes, I retrieved P0304 which told me that the misfire was on cylinder number four and the source of the problem was very likely down to the injector. On this engine number four cylinder is at the timing belt end, which can often confuse matters. My first move was to unplug the injector and check the connection, Bingo I found the problem which I was half expecting. The terminals of the injector had become corroded due to water damage from a dripping washer jet. The washer fluid will penetrate the terminals and corrosion then occurs. This is a common occurrence on C3 1.4, and it is advisable to replace the dribbling washer jet and check the pipe connection to prevent a reoccurrence of the problem. Once the injector and the washer jet were both replaced the fault codes were cleared and the C3 now running on four cylinders was returned to its waiting owner.

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Rotten radiator

 The owner of this 1992 Mercedes-Benz 190E covered about 6000 miles a year and with over 180,000 miles on the clock he was pleased at how little the classic Merc cost him to maintain. A good service once a year normally got it through the MOT without any issue, and being used regularly although only for short trips and being garaged when not in use had kept the vehicle in good stead. The owner had now come to me with a problem and that was the cooling system which had begun to need topping-up every other week. Sherlock Holmes wasn’t required to find the source of the leak as with the bonnet open the radiator is in plain view. This still wasn’t going to break the bank though and the radiator from the factors was under £50. Once fitted in place and the cooling system bled out, the old Merc should keep going for a few years yet.

The Merc didn’t cover a great deal of miles and was well looked after but that didn’t stop the radiator from deteriorating.

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January 2021

D i T T .9 1 3 9 b a a S Project

Non-swirl flap inlet manifold PART THREE: Following last month’s discovery, we acquire a non-swirl flap Vauxhall CDTi inlet manifold. Does it fit OK, and will the car run as it should? Andrew Everett guides us through the saga as well as renewing the thermostat and EGR valve.

ast month we made the discovery that contrary to popular opinion, the ‘good old 1.9’ in the TTiD Saab is, in fact, a smaller capacity (1910cc) version of the unloved CDTi Vauxhall engine as used in the Astra, Insignia and others in 2.0 form. This made finding parts for our car a bit tricky, but by the power of the internet and comparing photos, I deduced that our 2008 Saab engine used lots of CDTi type parts – plastic inlet manifold, thermostat, EGR valve and sadly, that stupid sump oil pick-up O-ring that we will have to renew. So, we managed to remove our manifold with an almost ludicrous amount of dismantling and thought that unless you did a lot more dismantling –

either taking the head off or stripping the whole gearbox end of the engine – the manifold would not come off intact. We had to chop the bottom of the swirl flap linkage off – ridiculous! This, of course, was a learning process and having done the job once and known that a replacement manifold is the best solution, we would have just chopped the corner off the manifold with an air saw as it was going in the bin anyway. This would still be our preferred way of doing the job, but upon speaking to someone who works at a Vauxhall dealership, we discovered that once the thermostat is removed, you could just about access four long 13mm bolts that secure the complete EGR valve and coolant thermostat housing to the side of the engine. This

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allows the housing to come free and then permits the manifold to come back and off – the joy of hindsight, eh? You would probably still need to replace the housing to engine gasket – it would be about an hour of extra dismantling – and if you wanted to avoid chopping bits off the manifold or were fitting a new swirl flap manifold, it would be essential. If only we’d known this last month!

 Here’s the main support bracket for the swirl flap motor. This is pretty sturdy on its own but when there are four flaps to open and close, GM added another bracket behind. Notice the steel stud tubes fit inside the holes in the bracket so you may need to swap tubes over.

 Here are our two manifolds. The 2014 Insignia one being above. Seemingly identical to the original Saab one, there are a number of small differences but once you strip all the bits and pieces off there is actually very little difference between them. The flap motor makes it bulky.

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CM project 2008 Saab 9-3 Sportwagon 1.9 TTiD Non-flap manifold So, we obtained a manifold on eBay having found-out that the actual GM part number is 55565592 and not what is stamped on the manifold itself – the number PA66GF35 means nothing and was present on both old and new manifolds. The replacement cost £65 and came from a 2014 Insignia Ecoflex. It was in superb condition and looked almost new. Being the factory non-swirl flap version, it has the casting lugs for the swirl flaps that are undrilled. We could have bought a new inlet manifold for not much more than £100 but what we didn’t want to do was to pay for one and find it didn’t fit. So I compared the original manifold and throttle body

to the replacement (online images) and confirmed that the ports were the same as was the throttle body mounting flange. The swirl flap motor bolts on in two places, both onto the middle lower two inlet manifold studs and also into a couple of threaded lugs cast into the manifold. The Ecoflex manifold doesn’t have these lugs but we don’t care – the motor will be plugged-in and operating to keep the ECU happy (hopefully). As there are no flaps to operate now, we will just threadlock the manifold studs so that it won’t vibrate loose. The steel sleeves in the manifold are longer on some original swirl flap type manifolds to locate the motor bracket so we’ll swap those over – well, on ours they weren’t so we used washers under the nuts.

Here is the rear swirl flap motor support bracket and we see the two mounting lugs that it bolts to. Rather than screw a bolt straight into plastic, GM pressed brass threaded nuts into the plastic for the bolts to screw into. The motor does nothing now, so we don’t need these.

The other advantage of not using those lower bolts – impossible to access with the manifold fitted – is that the manifold should be a lot easier to fit. By lowering the motor into the engine bay and connecting it first, the manifold can follow it after – and the motor secured only by the two manifold studs. Finally, we also replaced the coolant thermostat and the troublesome EGR valve. Our car puffed out a bit of smoke occasionally as if the DPF was trying to regenerate and we hope a new thermostat will help. A new EGR valve after 152,000 miles is a good idea too. On reassembly and fire-up, the EML was glowing and I found fault code P0404 which relates to the EGR valve – this was cleared and hasn’t come back.

This is the part number that got me confused – PA66-GF35 must only be a reference number for a GM diesel inlet manifold parts group. When I googled this number it came-up with both manifold types. The actual part number is not seen anywhere on the manifold. Bizarre!

 This was the acid test – would the throttle body flange be the same? Imagine buying a new manifold only to find that the 180bhp version has a bigger throttle body that wouldn’t bolt up? You’d be in tears. I took the original manifold with me when buying this second-hand part just to compare the flanges. They are identical.

 A common fault on these engines is a coolant leak from this rubber gasket. This one (on the new manifold) has split and would cause an infuriating coolant leak – we replaced it. The gasket doesn’t go around the studs so you could pull the manifold back an inch and renew it.

 The flap motor is attached to the manifold here by a pair of long T30 Torx bolts that go through the motor and into the other side where there are two captive nuts – predictably, one of those decided to snap off. With the manifold removed, it was easy to hold it with a 13mm spanner.

 Here is one of the steel manifold stud sleeves being removed. They are only a vague press-fit so are easy to take out. But on our manifold, we found that the sleeves were all equal length and that in fact, the manifold stud bosses were depressed by about 2mm in the centres.

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CM project 2008 Saab 9-3 Sportwagon 1.9 TTiD

TACKLING INLET MANIFOLD REMOVAL continued

To reassemble, the flap motor and bracket were lowered down into the rear of the engine and plugged into its connector. To the right you can see the oil separator canister (it returns oil from the breather) and O-ring (circled) where the drain back tube bolts into the block, with a 10mm bolt.

It’s difficult to see anything down here let alone take a photo, but here we can see both one of the swirl flap bracket captive nuts as well as one of the two that secure the whole thing to the manifold. I used 13mm nuts here with a flat integral washer and a dab of thread lock.

NEW EGR VALVE

Without the flap motor fitted, the inlet manifold is very easier now to get into the correct place, through the snakes nest of wires and onto the studs. Use a dab of grease or a strong magnetic socket to refit all but two of the 12mm nuts – those middle two are the ones for the motor bracket.

The rest is reassembly. The various cable connectors, the coolant-tomanifold pipe that snap fits on, as well as the oil separator. There is a lot to reassemble so go over and over it to recheck everything. Here we are torquing the diesel pump 22mm nut to 50Nm with threadlock.

We did wonder if the steel highpressure diesel pipe from the injection pump to the common-rail would go again – it hasn’t leaked yet. Also visible here is the electrical connector to the pump as well as the bolted-in oil separator canister. Don’t forget the small leak-off rubber pipe.

 Here is the steel sealing gasket that bolts onto the EGR housing with four small Allen bolts. The EGR housing is combined with a coolant housing also for the thermostat and bolts to the side of the engine just to make things really complicated. Who actually designs this stuff?

 Our new EGR valve compared to the old one. Maybe the original was still working fine but it was pretty coked-up. These are both made by Dellorto who, of course, used to make side draught carburettors but found their business model a bit behind the times. It’s an expensive unit.

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CM project 2008 Saab 9-3 Sportwagon 1.9 TTiD

By comparison, this is the old type as fitted to the Vectra, various Alfas and Fiats as well as the TiD with the alloy inlet manifold. These were notoriously troublesome and gave the diesel Vauxhalls in particular a bad name – they’re very easy to remove, clean or renew however.

For some reason, the newer-type EGR valve like ours has this circular steel washer on the end. Well, it was found in the EGR housing when we went fishing with a magnet. It clamps between the end of the valve and the housing – but why not just make the valve a bit longer then?

This is the new EGR valve bolted to the housing using the original bolts. In my haste I later found a bag with two new ones. They are T40 Torx and I greased them up to prevent future seizure. Here we can see a yellow rubber bung plug and we’ve yet to find out what it’s for.

THERMOSTAT RENEWAL

This is where the thermostat is fitted to the GM CDTi type engine in all its plastic glory complete with a hateful spring hose clamp. It’s secured by three Torx bolts. The hose seen between the two upper bolts is the one that goes to the coolant expansion bottle.

Remove the two upper T30 Torx bolts. Make sure you use a really good unworn socket for this as you do not want to round these out, especially the lower one. The expansion bottle (header tank) hose is removed by compressing the clip with pliers and pulling carefully.

The lower one is a right pig to get to. You need to be using ¼-inch drive sockets and a short extension for this, all the time pressing the section of wiring loom down that conveniently gets in the way. I’ve used a mirror to show you exactly where the bolt is – forewarned is forearmed.

With the thermostat out you can see just what is entailed in removing the EGR housing to get the swirl flap type manifold off intact – coolant hoses and stubs, this vacuum actuator, another big plastic housing on the right-hand side. What an absolute nuisance of a job.

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CM project 2008 Saab 9-3 Sportwagon 1.9 TTiD

NEXT MONTH

We tackle the cambelt and water pump change – surely this can’t be as hard as the manifold?

THERMOSTAT RENEWAL continued

 Old and new thermostats compared. We are hoping that the new one will aid rapid engine warm-up and allow the DPF to regenerate correctly. Unusually for this era of car, the thermostat is a wax element type and not ECU-controlled to open just as the engine is getting to temperature.

Here the thermostat is going back on and I raided my big box of good used BMW hose clips to replace the previous spring clip. You can also see here the dust cap in the corner of the stat – this is actually a coolant bleed valve for refilling.

 If like us you did a complete drain down of the cooling system, it’s a good idea to drain it into a clean bucket and reuse it as we did – it’s still showing as ‘good’ with an antifreeze tester. If you don’t lose much you can decant it back into the expansion bottle nice and slowly.

 Pour it in a pint at a time and you’ll reduce the chances of an airlock. Start the engine and let it fast idle with the heater on hot. After five minutes give it a few good revs to circulate the coolant – it took us 15 minutes to get heat. Now the engine is up to temperature from cold in under two miles. Result!

PROJECT COSTS PURCHASE

£1224.00

PARTS COSTS Swirl flap delete kit Replacement manifold EGR valve Thermostat TOTAL

removed thermostat and EGR housing showing both the location of the thermostat Torx 9 Abolts (circled) as well as the four bolts that secure the complete housing to the side of the cylinder-head – marked in RED. Remove these four bolts and the housing can be moved sideways.

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£28.00 £65.00 £221.02 £82.82 £1620.84

USEFUL CONTACTS GSF Car Parts 0121 626 7981 gsfcarparts.com

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MECHANICAL MISHAPS We all make mistakes, but the secret is to learn from them. Here’s some valuable lessons that CM readers have learned over the years.

Bring to light  The battery in my brother’s Opel Kadett was draining overnight. The fault was easy to find and fix. A wheelchair had been put into the boot, and, being a bit of a squeeze, it had deformed the bracket holding the microswitch for the courtesy light in the boot. By coincidence, only a couple of days later the interior light inside the cabin was seen to be on all the time. A quick check inside the boot showed that the switch was working perfectly, so the problem lay elsewhere. Thinking of the previous fault, I decided to check the door switches. After removing trim, and proving one of the switches was perfect, I wasn’t in the mood to check the other three switches. So, when all else fails, read the instructions: I decided to look at the Haynes wiring diagram for the circuit. I saw that there was an additional

power supply to the circuit through the headlamp switch. By the time I had thought to myself what has the headlamp switch got to do with the courtesy-light circuit, the penny dropped. The interior light can be turned on by pulling back on the headlight switch. And that’s all it was. The interior light had been turned on inadvertently. Morals of the story: keep an open mind, don’t overlook the most obvious explanation, and, if all else fails, read the instructions. Martin Rubenstein

A sledgehammer to crack a nut  In the 1960’s the family car was a Ford 100E Anglia. It was our first car and neither my Dad or me knew much about the mechanics of it – we could not afford to take it to a garage for small repairs and adjustments. It had a 1172cc sidevalve engine with vertical spark plugs and distributor sticking-up from it’s flat cylinder-head. One day I took the spark plugs out and cleaned them but didn’t replace them as the engine would be easier to turn-over without the compression. I then took the distributor cap off and replaced the points. Unfortunately I hadn’t covered the spark plug holes and managed to drop a brass nut into one of the open holes. I could see it on top of the piston but being brass I couldn’t get it out with a magnet. Whilst trying to retrieve the nut I managed to push it further away from the hole and out-of-sight. I thought it would be an easy task to undo the cylinder-head bolts and remove the head as it was little more than just a flat metal plate. I was worried about what my Dad would say when he got home from work so went off to the motor shop, bought my first socket, extension bar, T-bar and gasket and hurried home to do the job. I knew nothing about undoing or tightening the bolts in the correct order or to the correct torque. I got the head off, retrieved the nut, put everything back together just before my Dad got home and feeling pretty pleased with myself I saw no need to tell him. Not long after the engine overheated because the cylinder-head was distorted and we lost the coolant. We wondered what was wrong with the oil too! After several failed attempts to correct this ourselves I owned up and we took the car to the garage for the head to be reground flat and bolts tightened properly. Fifty five years later I still have that first socket, extension bar and T-bar to remind me of this incident, and they formed the basis of a socket set I have used many times since. Patrick Collins

Seeing double  Many moons ago I used to work for a VW specialist. We had booked in a very nice white Golf GTI MkII for some engine performance modifications which involved removing the engine. We also had booked in that day another white ‘big bumper’ Golf GTI MkII for a much needed engine tune. Because I was so enthusiastic I collected the keys for the vehicle that required the engine removal and began the very quick and easy removal. 25 minutes later the engine was swinging from the crane leaving a trail of antifreeze mixture on the floor. I was very chuffed at the speedy work and stopped for a brew. At this point my gaffa at the time walked into the unit and his face was rather white and he shouted what are you (swear word) doing, that’s the car for the engine tune! He then told me the customer had just gone for a stroll into town and won’t be long! Both vehicles were so similar and both were G-registered cars. I couldn’t believe I had done it! At this point the engine was swiftly returned to the car and reinstated with new gaskets. A free oil and antifreeze change thrown in with the engine tune, I think the customer got a very good deal. I didn’t live it down for many years and this is the first time I have told anyone else! Andy Gray

Have you ever made a daft or embarrassing mistake while working on your vehicle? Don’t be ashamed: tell us about it! Send your confessions and pics to martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk

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Car Mechanics

February 2021

Survival Guide Maserati Quattroporte Ian Cushway searches out new and used parts prices

The luxury QP is now buttons to buy but beware those high-performance running costs.

xotic Italian cars meant more for the mainstream have never performed well when it comes to residuals, and the fifthgeneration Quattroporte which arrived in 2004 was no exception. Costing £69,792 new, time hasn’t been kind to this svelte Pininfarina-styled coupé because 16 years on they’re popping up in the classifieds for under £10,000. For a heavyweight, highly sophisticated four-door saloon it was certainly quick and the first ones,

powered by a 4.2-litre V8, could do 0-62mph in 5.0 seconds and 170mph. From late 2005, there was the opulent Executive GT and Sport GT models which, as their nomenclatures would suggest, were meant to tempt people away from their Mercedes, Jaguars – and in the case of the latter, possibly the Porsche Cayman. From 2008, the 4.7-litre Sport GT S offered even more poke and a mild facelift later that year (when a new grille with vertical slats, revised rear lights and additional door V8 is robust and troublefree. DuoSelect cars can instantly be identified by their red cam covers.

Quattroporte 20042013 Engine (cc) Power (bhp) 0-60mph (sec) Top speed (mph) Average fuel (mpg)

54 Car Mechanics

4.2 4244 394 5.0 171 17

4.2 ZF 4244 394 5.4 167 19

January 2021

4.7 Sport S 4691 433 4.9 177 18

Engine component prices OIL FILTER Main dealer £34.44 AIR FLOW METER Main dealer £200.40 DUOSELECT CLUTCH KIT Main dealer £1155.60

mouldings were added) did nothing to dent the car’s reputation for being a fast four-seater with a difference. And, needless to say, with plummeting used prices, some even found themselves in the hands of the able home mechanic! We’ll let you be the judge as to whether you’ll be able to offset the cheap cost of the car itself against its prodigious thirst and the price of parts. Talking of which, supply is limited to the main dealers and specialists; the only opportunity to cut costs for non-service items is to look online or phone round the specialists to see if any have second-hand parts from a car they’ve salvaged.

Engines Lift the bonnet and you’ll discover an impressive all-alloy V8 which, if serviced every 6000 miles, should prove robust and reliable. Expect some oil from the cam covers and crankshaft oil seal, and possibly issues with rough-running if the air flow meter starts playing-up. Rattly camshaft variators from cold and on the overrun is another issue (around £5000 to fix), but that’s about it. The main issue of contention, on early cars at least, concerns the DuoSelect automated six-speed manual gearbox with its hydraulically-actuated clutch and wheel-mounted paddle shifters. You can identify DuoSelect models by their T-bar gear selector and red engine cam covers. While it’s quicker than the auto, the clunky changes in both manual and auto mode feels brutal. Moreover, the hydraulic selectors can fail, leading to lethargic shifts up and down. The lever assembly alone is £1764. Cars used around town can also get through clutches in no time (20,000-30,000 miles being the norm). The more conventional ZF autoboxes fitted from 2007 (with their blue cam covers, wet sump) were trouble-free so a much safer bet. shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

TOP TIP

Survival Guide Maserati Quattroporte Prepared to ‘go large’? Bear in mind the plutocratic Quattroporte V is over 5m long and close to 2m wide, so make sure you’ve got enough space for it. The earliest examples are getting on a bit now, so battle scars are inevitable. Thankfully, while the bonnet and bootlid are aluminium, the doors and wings are steel and can be repaired far more easily.

USEFUL CONTACTS Maserati Club www.maseraticlub.co.uk Meridien Modena 023 8208 3404 www.meridien.co.uk Eurospares 01787 477169 www.eurospares.co.uk

Suspension and steering

Brakes

A double wishbone arrangement with coil springs features on each corner and the standard car is very compliant. The same though can’t be said of the Sport and especially the GT S, the latter of which some say is just too harsh for UK roads. As well as the usual bush wear, watch out for cars that had the adjustable Skyhook suspension which allowed the driver to adjust firmness via a button on the dash as replacement shocks are expensive. Also, rear tyres have a very short lifespan, especially if there’s any discrepancies in the car’s geometry, so if you find uneven wear get it checked out. There was a modification early on to the steering rack mounting position, so if a pre-2005 car feels particularly vague it’s worth confirming that the necessary work has been carried out.

You’ll find 330mm and 316mm discs at the front and rear of the QP, respectively. Unsurprisingly for a quick car weighing two tons, pads and discs wear rapidly. Stoppers on the GT S models are beefier and feature a hybrid disc made from iron and aluminium as well as Brembo sixcylinder calipers. Watch out for corroded ABS sensors (new ones come with replacement pads) and problems with the electronic handbrake which can stick on if seldom used.

Steering/suspension component prices SKYHOOK FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER Main dealer £1368 (each) secondhand from £200 FRONT SUSPENSION TOP MOUNT Main dealer £41.88

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Brake component prices FRONT DISCS PAIR Main dealer £542.40 FRONT PADS Main dealer £662.40

get lucky and find a secondhand one online or at a specialist salvage outfit, but you get the idea. Oh, and if you notice that super plush cabin is getting hot even with the climate on its lowest setting, then the compressor has most likely failed. You’ll hear a rattle when it goes. Replacements are a very uncool £1392 from a Maserati main dealer. See, we warned you!

Other component prices WING MIRROR STANDARD CAR Main dealer £962 secondhand from £140 AIRCON COMPRESSOR Main dealer £1392 secondhand from £350

Other issues Being such a scarily sophisticated car from a low-production manufacturer, replacing broken or non-functioning items can be extortionate, which makes the initial assessment of a car when buying all the more important. Those folding mirror assemblies, for example, are £962 from a main dealer. You might

Car Mechanics

January 2021

DIY Servicing 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.2 D

The return of rearwheel drive

Turin Motors of Leeds shows Rob Hawkins how they service the dieselpowered RWD Giulia.

aunched in 2016, the diesel engine rear-wheel-drive Giulia is a direct competitor to the likes of the BMW 3-Series and Jaguar XE, two rivals that offer RWD and economical diesel engines. For the UK, there’s only the option of an eight-speed ZF automatic gearbox with hard-to-miss paddle shifts in front of the steering wheel. Under the skin, the brakes and suspension appear to demonstrate that Alfa hasn’t cut any corners, with Brembo four-pots up front and single-piston calipers at the rear including an electronic park brake. The suspension employs some familiar FWD Alfa components at the front, including a single lower arm, a long coilover and an equally long banana-shaped upright

Rob says  According to Turin Motors, it’s essential that after a service involving an engine oil refresh, the oil service light must be reset to allow the diesel particulate filter (DPF) to complete any necessary regeneration procedures. Otherwise the DPF can get blocked. The frequency of engine oil changes varies. If the engine oil change indicator is illuminated, then the oil should be renewed. If the vehicle is largely used for urban driving, then it should be droppedout every 12,000 miles or 12 months; otherwise every 24,000 miles or 24 months.

ROB HAWKINS Special Contributor

Overall difficulty rating

BROUGHT TO YOU WITH

Equipment required

› jack › axle stands (or ramp) › oil tray › oil filter strap › sockets/spanners 7-14mm › 32mm shallow socket › Torx T30 and T55-bit › 8mm Allen key › screwdrivers › wheel brace › pry bars › battery tester › antifreeze hydrometer › hammers › wire and soft brush › spray grease › penetrating fluid › tyre pump › torch › torque wrench › rags for cleaning › disposable gloves

connected to an upper wishbone. At the rear however, there’s a more complicated rear-wheel-drive suspension set-up, which includes separate coil springs and dampers, a substantial lower arm and a complicated arrangement of upper and lower control arms. Fortunately, all these components are straightforward to inspect during a service. When it comes to engine servicing, the diesel version of the Giulia isn’t too complicated. Unlike the petrol-engined

Giulia, there’s a dipstick to check the engine oil. All of the filters and fluid checks are easy to access, the most awkward being the gearbox oil level, which requires a short 8mm Allen key tool. This engine has a timing belt, which Turin recommends should be renewed every 60,000 miles or four years. We asked Italian car specialist, Turin Motors, to guide us through a service on a 2017 2.2-litre diesel Giulia. The following steps reveal what’s involved.

Underbonnet layout

SCREENWASH COOLANT RESERVOIR

BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR

AIR FILTER HOUSING

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ENGINE OIL FILLER CAP

ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK

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DIY Servicing 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.2D TOP TIP

UNDERBONNET CHECKS

Clean around the brake fluid reservoir’s yellow cap before releasing it to reduce the risk of dirt getting inside.

1 CHECK COOLANT The engine coolant expansion tank can be checked by shining a torch at the side – look for MIN and MAX on the side. Alfa don’t offer a recommended renewal interval for the coolant, so test it with an antifreeze hydrometer and renew it if its freezing capacity is too high.

4 GREASE BONNET RELEASES There are two bonnet release mechanisms, located at the front corners of the engine bay on top of the slam panel. Spray a light grease over them to reduce the risk of corrosion and seizure of the mechanism. Lubricate the door and tailgate locks elsewhere.

2 TOP-UP WASHER FLUID The screenwash reservoir’s filler neck is located on the nearside rear corner of the engine bay. Prise off the blue-coloured cap and top-up with a mixture of screenwash and water or pour a sachet of concentrated screenwash in and dilute it with tap water.

5 ACCESS THE AIR FILTER The air filter is contained inside a plastic housing near the offside front of the engine bay. There are four 7mm bolts to undo to release the lid of the housing. Detach any hoses that are clipped to the side of it and disconnect the induction hose attached to it.

3 CHECK BRAKE FLUID The brake fluid reservoir can be found underneath a plastic flap on the rear offside of the engine bay. Shine a torch on the side of the reservoir to help check the level. Test the moisture content with a brake fluid tester. If it needs topping-up, use DOT 4 brake fluid.

6 CHECK FILTER Alfa recommend the air filter should be renewed every three years or 36,000 miles, but it’s worthwhile inspecting it at every service interval. Clean any dirt from inside the housing and the filter (if it’s been reused) before refitting it.

UNDER THE VEHICLE FRONT

7 REMOVE UNDERTRAY The undertray is secured with an assortment of Torx T30 screws, many of which may be corroded, so after undoing and removing the undertray, lubricate them with copper grease and replace any that are damaged.

8 REMOVE OIL FILTER CANISTER Use a 32mm shallow socket to undo the oil filter canister from underneath. There’s not much room, so a shallow socket is essential. Once removed, drain the oil inside the canister and remove the old oil filter.

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DIY Servicing 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.2D

9 RENEW SEAL & FILTER Fit a new seal around the thread of the oil filter’s canister. Fit a new filter and O-ring, ensuring the filter clicks into position. Refit the canister and tighten it to 25Nm.

12 CHECK DIPSTICK The engine oil dipstick is located on the nearside of the engine. Extract it, wipe it clean, then reinsert and pull it out again to check the level, which should be halfway between the minimum and maximum markers. Run the engine to ensure the oil pressure warning light doesn’t remain illuminated. Switch off, look for leaks and check the oil level again.

10 DRAIN ENGINE OIL Place a drain tray underneath the sump, then remove the 13mm sump drain plug, leaving the oil to drain for several minutes. Renew the plug, which consists of a steel bolt and washer with a rubber insert. Tighten it to 20Nm.

11 REFILL ENGINE OIL The 2.2-litre diesel requires 0W-30 or 0W-20 fully-synthetic oil, depending on the year of manufacture of the vehicle and the performance of the engine. Between 3.5 and 3.6 litres of oil is required.

13 CHECK AUTO OIL The ZF automatic gearbox on this Giulia 2.2D has an oil level inspection plug on the lower offside of it, which is accessed from underneath the vehicle. Undo this inspection plug with an 8mm Allen key to check whether the oil level inside is just below the hole. If necessary, top-up with ATF through this hole – Millers Oils recommend their Millermatic ATF 8SP.

14 CHECK DIFF OIL The inspection plug for the rear diff also requires an 8mm Allen key to undo it. Once removed, check inside to make sure the oil level is just below the inspection hole. If it needs topping-up, use Tutela Transmission LS 75W-85 synthetic multi-axle oil.

UNDERSIDE INSPECTION

15 CHECK EARTH STRAP There’s an earth strap fitted on the offside of the vehicle, which can be inspected from the underside. Check it’s secure and not damaged. It will probably have started to corrode, so it needs to be regularly inspected.

16 PINCH BOOTS Squeeze the rubber gaitors for the steering track rods and driveshafts to look for splits, especially in the corrugated sections. Make sure the ends of the gaitors are secured with clips or ties.

17 CHECK FRONT LOWER ARM Lever a pry bar against the end of each front lower suspension arm to check for play in the outer balljoint. Lever against the bush for the coilover’s lower mounting.

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DIY Servicing 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.2D UNDERSIDE INSPECTION CONTINUED

18 TEST FRONT DROPLINKS There’s not much space to be able to check the front anti-roll bar droplinks, but the ends of the anti-roll bar can be grabbed and shaken from underneath the front end of the vehicle. Any play detected may result in a knocking noise when driving the vehicle.

19 CHECK REAR LOWER ARMS The rear lower suspension arms have several bushes, which can be checked for excessive play by levering a pry bar against each one. There are two outer and two inner bushes, which can all be checked from underneath.

20 INSPECT REAR COIL SPRINGS Visually inspect each rear coil spring, looking for corrosion and fractured coils. Don’t touch the coil springs in case you trap your fingers. Use a soft brush to remove any dirt from around the base of each rear coil spring.

BRAKES/SUSPENSION

21 CHECK REAR FLEXI-HOSES The rubber flexi-hoses at the rear brakes can be inspected from underneath the back of the vehicle. Look for signs of perishing and brake fluid leaks. Trace the brake lines to the front of the vehicle, looking for and inspecting any more flexi-hoses. And check the brake pipes are secure and free of damage.

22 CHECK EXHAUST

23 INSPECT FRONT BRAKES

The exhaust system looks rather straightforward from underneath, so check it’s securely mounted along with any heatshields. If it’s safe to do so, run the engine and feel around all exhaust joins for leaks, but avoid touching the exhaust as it could be hot and may burn your skin.

The brake pads inside the Brembo four-pot calipers on the front can be visually inspected by looking through the rear of them to check the thickness of the braking material. If they need to be removed, extract the retaining pins, undo the two Torx T55 caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper.

24 CHECK UPPER WISHBONE

25 INSPECT REAR BRAKES

Lever a pry bar against the inner bushes for each front upper wishbone to check for excessive play, which could result in a knocking noise when driving the vehicle. Also, lever against the outer balljoint to check for excessive movement.

The rear brakes have an electronic park brake, so unless you have the diagnostic equipment to activate the service mode, do not work on them. Instead, the thickness of the brake pads can be visually inspected from the side and rear edge of the caliper.

26 UPPER SUSPENSION ARM Use a pry bar to lever against the outer mounting bush for the upper rear suspension arm. Inspect the telescopic damper for leaks and damage. Check the wiring for the ABS sensor is securely routed to the back of the hub.

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DIY Servicing 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia 2.2D POLLEN FILTER 28 FIND POLLEN FILTER The pollen filter is accessed from the driver’s footwell. Release and remove a trim panel underneath the dashboard to reveal a small plastic cover. Unclip this to expose the side of the pollen filter. Carefully pull it out.

29 CHECK POLLEN FILTER 27 TEST TRACK CONTROL ARM There’s a short track control arm on each rear corner of the vehicle, forward of the telescopic damper. Check the inner and outer bush for excessive play using a pry bar.

Before fitting the new pollen filter, make sure it’s the same size and shape as the old one. Look for airflow arrows on the side, which must point to the back of the car (the heater) when fitting it. Slide the new pollen filter into position, then refit the cover and trim panel.

31 CHECK BATTERY The battery is located inside the boot, behind an access panel in the offside rear corner. The battery shown here was low on voltage, so had been connected to a spare battery to help start and run the engine. Check the battery is secure and test its voltage.

32 RESET SERVICE LIGHT 30 CHECK FILLER CAP SEAL The fuel filler is on the nearside rear of the vehicle. Release the flap and unscrew the cap. Check the condition of the seal on the inside of the cap. If it’s perished, fumes may leak past it and this may fail the MOT test, so renew it.

Don’t forget to also  CHECK TYRES Look

for unevenly worn tread and damaged sidewalls  CHECK DOORS Make sure they can be opened/closed from both sides  CHECK & TEST WIPERS Look for cracks in the rubber blades  CHECK AUXILIARY DRIVEBELT Look for cracks across the ribs

THANKS GO TO Turin Motors Limited 0113 245 8787 www.turinmotors.co.uk First service at 12k £115 Second service at 24k £178 Third service at 36k £195 Oil and filter renewal £136

Diagnostic equipment or a laptop with suitable software are required to reset the service warning light. This is essential on the diesel engine to ensure the ECU knows the engine oil has been renewed and to avoid any DPF-related issues.

SERVICE SCHEDULE (as recommended by Turin Motors)

EVERY 12,000 MILES or 12 MONTHS

 Change oil and filter (for urban driving) and reset change indicator  Change pollen filter  Check coolant level and test concentration  Check brake fluid level and test water content  Check tyre condition, pressure and tread  Top-up screenwash fluid  Check battery  Check wiper blades and washer jets  Check all underbonnet components and hoses for fluid leaks  Visually inspect brakes  Inspect auxiliary drivebelt(s)  Check steering and suspension components  Inspect driveshaft gaiters

 Inspect exhaust system and mountings  Check operation of all electrical systems  Lubricate all hinges and locks

EVERY 24,000 MILES or 24 MONTHS  Change oil and filter and reset change indicator  Renew brake fluid

EVERY 36,000 MILES or 36 MONTHS  Change air filter

EVERY 60,000 MILES or 48 MONTHS  Renew timing belt and tensioner  Renew auxiliary drivebelt and tensioner

EVERY 72,000 MILES or 72 MONTHS  Renew fuel filter

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