Woodcraft

/ÄÄÊò ã®ò óÊÙ» Ä « ÝÝÊÙ® Ý Ɖ͘ϰϮ

Projects, Techniques, and Products

Build a Standing Desk Ɖ͘ϯϮ MORE PROJECTS: A-Frame Planter ■ Curvy Wall Shelf ■ Animated 'ŝƌĂīĞƐ >ĂŵƉ ■ T-Square Router Guide ■

SKILL BUILDERS: Turning Tricky Wood ■ Mastering Half-Blind Dovetails ■

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ŽŶƚĞŶƚƐ͗ WƌŽũĞĐƚƐ April/May 2016

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Make an A-Frame Planter

A folding ladder frame makes this planter easy to set up just about anywhere. Three ƉůĂƞŽƌŵƐ ƉƌŽǀŝĚĞ ƉůĞŶƚLJ ŽĨ ƐƉĂĐĞ ĨŽƌ ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶĞƌ gardening or seedlings.

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Work Smarter with a Standing Desk

DĂŬĞ ƐŽŵĞ ĞdžƚƌĂ ƐƉĂĐĞ ŝŶ LJŽƵƌ ŚŽŵĞ ŽĸĐĞ͘ tŝƚŚ ŝƚƐ ƉůĞĂƐŝŶŐ ƉƌŽƉŽƌƟŽŶƐ ĂŶĚ ƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂů ũŽŝŶĞƌLJ ĚĞƚĂŝůƐ͕ ƚŚŝƐ ĐŽŵƉĂĐƚ ǁŽƌŬ ƐƚĂƟŽŶ ŚĂƐ ǁŚĂƚ ŝƚ ƚĂŬĞƐ ƚŽ ƉůĞĂƐĞ ŚĞĂůƚŚ ĞdžƉĞƌƚƐ͕ ŚŽŵĞŽǁŶĞƌƐ͕ ĂŶĚ ǁŽŽĚǁŽƌŬĞƌƐ ĂůŝŬĞ͘

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Curvy Wall Shelf

'ƌĂĐĞĨƵů ůŝŶĞƐ ŵĂŬĞ ƚŚŝƐ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ ĂƐ ďĞĂƵƟĨƵů ĂƐ ƚŚĞ ŽďũĞĐƚƐ LJŽƵ͛ůů ǁĂŶƚ ƚŽ ĚŝƐƉůĂLJ͘ ^ĞůĞĐƚ ƐŽŵĞ ŶŝĐĞ ǁŽŽĚ͕ ĂŶĚ ŐĞƚ ƌĞĂĚLJ ƚŽ ƉƌĂĐƟĐĞ ƉŽǁĞƌ ĂŶĚ hand-tool joinery.

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ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ

April/May 2016

58

T-Square Router Guide

EŽƚ Ăůů ũŝŐƐ ĂƌĞ ĐƌĞĂƚĞĚ ĞƋƵĂů͘ dŚŝƐ dͲƐƋƵĂƌĞ ŐƵŝĚĞ͛Ɛ Ă ŬĞĞƉĞƌ͕ ƚŚĂŶŬƐ ƚŽ ĐŽŵŵŽŶͲƐĞŶƐĞ ĨĞĂƚƵƌĞƐ ƚŚĂƚ ƐŝŵƉůŝĨLJ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ĞŶƐƵƌĞ ĨĂƐƚ͕ ƉƌĞĐŝƐĞ alignment. Senior editor Paul Anthony explains how to build LJŽƵƌ ŽǁŶ ǀĞƌƐŝŽŶ͘

ŽǀĞƌ ƉŚŽƚŽ͗ >ĂƌƌLJ ,ĂŵĞůͲ>ĂŵďĞƌƚ

Contents: WƌŽũĞĐƚƐ

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ƌŽǁƐŝŶŐ 'ŝƌĂīĞƐ >ĂŵƉ

zŽƵ͛ůů ŚĂǀĞ ĨƵŶ ďƵŝůĚŝŶŐ ƚŚŝƐ ƐĐƌŽůůƐĂǁ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ͕ ĂŶĚ LJŽƵƌ ĐŚŝůĚƌĞŶ ǁŝůů ůŽǀĞ ƚŚĞ ĞŶĚ ƌĞƐƵůƚ͘ tŚĞŶ ƚŚĞ ůŝŐŚƚ ŝƐ ƐǁŝƚĐŚĞĚ ŽŶ͕ Ă ƟŶLJ ŵŽƚŽƌ ƐƉŝŶƐ ƚŚĞ ĐĂŵ ŵĞĐŚĂŶŝƐŵ͕ ĐĂƵƐŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ŐŝƌĂīĞƐ͛ ŚĞĂĚƐ ƚŽ ďŽď͘

Contents: dŽŽůƐ Θ dĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƐ

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10 Tips for Turning Tricky Wood

“Defects” like bark inclusions, ƐƉĂůƟŶŐ͕ ĂŶĚ ǁŝůĚ ŐƌĂŝŶ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ƚƌĂŶƐĨŽƌŵĞĚ ŝŶƚŽ ƚƌĞĂƐƵƌĞĚ ƚƵƌŶŝŶŐƐ͕ ďƵƚ ŽŶůLJ ŝĨ LJŽƵ ŬŶŽǁ ƚŚĞ ƐĞĐƌĞƚƐ ƚŽ ǁŽƌŬŝŶŐ ǁŝƚŚ ƚƌŝĐŬLJ ǁŽŽĚ͘

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Workbench Workmates

>Ğƚ͛Ɛ ďƵŝůĚ Ă ďĞƩĞƌ ŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͊

&ĞƐƚŽŽů d^ ^ĞƌŝĞƐ

18 Tips & Tricks 67 Buyer’s Guide 68 WoodSense ^ƉŽƚůŝŐŚƚ ŽŶ ƐŚ

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Half-blind Dovetails

>ĞĂƌŶ ŚŽǁ ƚŽ ĐƌĂŌ ƚŚŝƐ ĐůĂƐƐŝĐ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ũŽŝŶƚ ƵƐŝŶŐ Ă ĐŽŵďŝŶĂƟŽŶ ŽĨ ƉŽǁĞƌ ƚŽŽů ĂŶĚ ŚĂŶĚ ƚŽŽů ƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƐʹĨƌŽŵ ůĂLJŽƵƚ ƚŽ ĮŶĂů ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ͘

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ

06 Contributors Page/ On the Web 08 Staying Sharp 10 News & Views 16 Hot New Tools

ĞŝŶŐ ĂďůĞ ƚŽ ŚŽůĚ ǁŽƌŬƉŝĞĐĞƐ ƐĞĐƵƌĞůLJ ƐƵƌĞ ŝŵƉƌŽǀĞƐ ĞĸĐŝĞŶĐLJ ĂŶĚ ĂĐĐƵƌĂĐLJ͘ dŚĂƚ͛Ɛ ǁŚLJ LJŽƵ͛ůů ǁĂŶƚ ƚŽ ƐƵƉĞƌĐŚĂƌŐĞ LJŽƵƌ ǁŽƌŬďĞŶĐŚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞƐĞ ŝŶŶŽǀĂƟǀĞ ĂĐĐĞƐƐŽƌŝĞƐ͘

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Departments

April/May 2016

Contributors In 2002, Chris Hedges completed a double major in philosophy and sociology at Ohio University in Athens, Ohio. Not long after beginning a career as a sociology professor at the university, he discovered woodworking and enrolled in the University of Rio Grande’s woodworking program.

In 2007, his fourth piece of furniture won all three major awards at the AWFS Fresh Wood Student Woodworking Competition.

Today Chris runs AedanWorks from his home in Athens.

The standing desk that Chris designed and built for this issue (p. 32) is a good representation of the work he likes to do, using traditional joinery details to build useful, everyday furniture. Dz ÇŻÂ? ƒ „‹‰ ˆƒÂ? ‘ˆ ŠƒÂ?‡” •–›Ž‡ǥdz Š”‹• •ƒ›•Ǥ Dz Ď?‹Â?† –Š‡”‡ǯ• still a lot to learn from the restrained ornamentation, the pleasing proportions, and the durable, well-made joinery.â€?

Woodworking is a second career for Phil Gautreau, whose advice on turning tricky wood begins on p. 28.

In his 25-year career as a health care executive, Phil made time for making things and gravitated toward turning because every session at the lathe provided fresh opportunities to learn, invent, and create unique objects. The cooperative workshop where he works and teaches is located in the Gowanus section of Brooklyn.

In 2015, Phil won two awards for innovative use of sustainable materials: an ECO Choice Award at NY NOW and the Inhabit Green ‡•‹‰� ™ƒ”† ƒ–

Ǥ ‡ǯ• ƒŽ•‘ „‡‡Â? ƒ Ď?‹Â?ƒŽ‹•– ˆ‘” ƒ NICHE Award at the AMERICAN MADE Show for design excellence.

After years of working on static buildings as an architect and inert furniture as a woodworker, John Hutchinson changed course when Š‡ †‹•…‘˜‡”‡† ƒ˜‹† ƒÂ?‡Ď?‹‡Ž†ǯ• ƒÂ?‹Â?ƒ–‡† wooden toys–if it doesn’t move, John’s no longer interested. So now he’s all about toys of his own design and animated music boxes and lamps.

Lamps are his current passion because the practical architect in him can say they provide some utility beyond pure delight–as if that wasn’t reason enough for their existence. Go to johnwhutchinson.com for an extended gallery of his animated work.

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April/May 2016

On the Web

When you see this icon in the magazine, take it as a cue to visit Ç Ç Ç Í˜Ç Ĺ˝Ĺ˝ÄšÄ?ĆŒÄ‚ĹŒĹľÄ‚Ĺ?Ä‚ÇŒĹ?ĹśÄžÍ˜Ä?Žž for videos, PDFs, and other supplementary content.

Check out a couple of short videos that Ä¨ÄžÄ‚ĆšĆľĆŒÄž ĹšĆŒĹ?Ć? ,ĞĚĹ?ÄžĆ? ĚĞžŽŜĆ?ĆšĆŒÄ‚Ć&#x;ĹśĹ? his divider technique for laying out dovetails and the sled-type jig he uses to cut dovetails on the ƚĂÄ?ĹŻÄžĆ?Ä‚Ç Í˜ zŽƾ͛ůů Ä‚ĹŻĆ?Ĺ˝ ĎŜĚ ^ŏĞƚÄ?ĹšhƉ plans of Chris’ standing desk.

You can’t build John Hutchinson’s žŽÄ?Ĺ?ĹŻĹ?njĞĚ Ĺ?Ĺ?ĆŒÄ‚ÄŤÄž ůĂžƉ Ç Ĺ?ƚŚŽƾƚ ĨƾůůͲĆ?Ĺ?njĞĚ Ć‰Ä‚ĆŠÄžĆŒĹśĆ? Ä¨Ĺ˝ĆŒ ƚŚĹ?Ć? Ć?Ä?ĆŒĹ˝ĹŻĹŻĆ?Ä‚Ç project. Don’t worry; we’ve made them available on the website. Find them under the Project Plans tab.

Staying Sharp ƵŝůĚŝŶŐ Ă ďĞƩĞƌ ŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͊ One reason I love woodworking is the variety of paths you can take to reach the same destination. If you want to build a dovetailed drawer, the job can be done with hand tools alone, with a router and dovetail jig, or by using a combination of hand and power tool techniques, as Chris Hedges demonstrates in this issue (see p. 62). It’s a sure bet that we’ll never run out of woodworking techniques to explore and explain.

We aim for diversity in our projects, too.

This issue’s selection is a good example–we’ve got something small (Paul Anthony’s curvy wall shelf), something big (a standing desk), something seasonal (an outdoor planter), and something totally outlandish (a giraffe lamp).

ϐ Ǧ for each issue, we try to satisfy the needs of woodworkers with different interests and also different ability levels. Over the last few months, we’ve heard from a few readers who would like more details on some of our larger, more complex projects.

We’re paying attention to these concerns.

Beginning in this issue, we’re including “onlineEXTRAS” that provide additional details on some of the techniques and tools used in certain Ǥ ǯ ϐ “Articles” tab on the magazine’s home page.

We’re adding another helpful feature at www.WoodcraftMagazine.com: the availability ϐ Ǥ ǯ to download this popular (and free) design program at www.sketchup.com. Using SketchUp

April/May 2016 Vol. 12, Issue 70 Editor-In-Chief: Tim Snyder Senior Editors: Paul Anthony, Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk Art Director: Chad McClung Graphic Designers: Shayne Hiles, Bobby Schehl Copy Editor: Sharon Hambrick Publisher: Gary Lombard Advertising Sales Manager: Vic Lombard Circulation Support: Kim McLaughlin, Stacey Bartenschlag Office Manager: Connie Harmon Circulation: Circulation Specialists, Inc.

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woodcraftmagazine.com

Choose your view. The SketchUp design program allows you ƚŽ ǀŝĞǁ Ă ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ ĨƌŽŵ ĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚ ĂŶŐůĞƐ͕ ƉƌŝŶƚ ŽƵƚ ƉĂƌƚƐ͕ ƚĂŬĞ ŵĞĂƐƵƌĞŵĞŶƚƐ͕ ĂŶĚ ĞǀĞŶ ŵĂŬĞ ŵŽĚŝĮĐĂƟŽŶƐʹũƵƐƚ ĨŽƌ ƐƚĂƌƚĞƌƐ͘

on your computer, you can download any ϐ ǡ ǡ dimensions for a project. Nervous about using Ǧ ǫ ǯ Ǥ ǯ ϐ instructions on getting started with SketchUp. In closing, I want to express my thanks to all the readers who are helping us to build a better magazine. These days, your voice is heard in many ways: through visits to Woodcraft stores, “likes” and comments on our Facebook page, email through the magazine website, comments on our ǡ Ǧ Ǥ Keep the feedback coming. It’s hugely helpful.

—Tim Snyder

Contact us by mail: 4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020 (800) 542-9125 Fax: (304) 420-9840 Contact us by email: editor@woodcraftmagazine.com

Supply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608 Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2

^ƵďƐĐƌŝƉƟŽŶƐ (U.S. and Canada) $19.97 for one year; Single copy, $6.99 ĐƵƐƚŽŵĞƌͺƐĞƌǀŝĐĞΛǁŽŽĚĐƌĂŌŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ (800) 542-9125

Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous. ůǁĂLJƐ ŵĂŬĞ ƐŚŽƉ ƐĂĨĞƚLJ LJŽƵƌ ĮƌƐƚ ƉƌŝŽƌŝƚLJ ďLJ ƌĞĂĚŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ĨŽůůŽǁŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƌĞĐŽŵŵĞŶĚĂƟŽŶƐ ŽĨ your machine owner’s manuals, using appropriate guards and safety devices, and maintaining all your tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing ƉƌŽƚĞĐƟŽŶ͘ WůĞĂƐĞ ŶŽƚĞ ƚŚĂƚ ĨŽƌ ƉƵƌƉŽƐĞƐ ŽĨ ŝůůƵƐƚƌĂƟǀĞ ĐůĂƌŝƚLJ͕ ŐƵĂƌĚƐ ĂŶĚ ŽƚŚĞƌ ƐĂĨĞƚLJ ĚĞǀŝĐĞƐ may be removed from tools shown in photographs ĂŶĚ ŝůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶƐ ŝŶ ƚŚŝƐ ƉƵďůŝĐĂƟŽŶ͘

Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN: 1553.2461, USPS 024-953) is published in January, March, May, July, September and November and printed in the United States Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additional mailing offices. Copyright 2016 by Woodcraft

April/May 2016

News & Views dǁŽ ďůĂĚĞƐ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ďĞƩĞƌ ƚŚĂŶ ŽŶĞ I enjoyed Paul Anthony’s “Twinblade Joinery” story in issue #69.

I make frame-and-panel doors using stub-tenon joinery, which I create by running the rails and stiles on edge over the saw blade, and then rotating the pieces endfor-end and sawing a second time to widen and center the grooves.

ϐ grooves, alternating the faces against my tenon jig. When rotating stock like this, any inconsistencies in its thickness translate into inconsistencies in the tenon thickness. The twin-blade approach should solve that problem. Also, congratulations to Paul for making the Feb/March cover!

—Russ Svendsen, via email

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April/May 2016

Senior Editor Paul Anthony replies: I’m glad you enjoyed the story, Russ, but I must confess that the article by-line was botched.

The story’s author, and the issue’s cover boy, is actually my long-time woodworking pal Geoff Noden. Apologies for any confusion.

My usual single-blade approach, which is to always orient the “show” face against my tenon jig, also removes any stock thickness inconsistencies from the equation. After cutting the “inner” tenon cheeks, I reposition the jig and saw all the outer cheeks, still orienting the show faces against the jig. That way, if there are any inconsistencies in stock thickness, the variance will be on the back face of the joint, where it can be easily planed off.

That said, once you buy a pair of matching blades and make the spacers, you’ll discover that Geoff’s twin-blade method is equally accurate, and nearly twice as fast.

News & Views

Tips for an aspiring jig maker I enjoyed and appreciated your “Jig Maker’s Toolkitâ€? and would appreciate more articles like this about shopÂ?ƒ†‡ Œ‹‰• ƒÂ?† Ď?‹š–—”‡•Ǥ With regards to the sheet goods and plastics that one should have on hand, the story failed to mention –Š‹…Â?Â?‡••‡•Ǥ ƒÂ? ›‘— ”‡…‘Â?Â?‡Â?† some thicknesses used on the jigs in your shop?

—Doug Harrsch

, Â‹Â‘Â™ÂƒÇĄ Â‘ÂŽÂ‘Â”ÂƒÂ†Â‘ÇĄ ˜‹ƒ ‡Â?ƒ‹Ž Senior Editor Joe Hurst replies: I’m afraid that it’s impossible –‘ •—‰‰‡•– ƒ •’‡…‹ϔ‹… •Š‘’’‹Â?‰ list because the jigs that appear

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‹Â? Woodcraft Magazine †‘Â?ǯ– •–‹…Â? ™‹–Š –Š‡ •ƒÂ?‡ ‹Â?‰”‡†‹‡Â?–•Ǥ ƒÂ?› ‘ˆ ‘—” Œ‹‰• …‘Â?‡ ˆ”‘Â? ™‘‘†™‘”Â?‡”• ƒŽŽ ‘˜‡” –Š‡ Ǥ Ǥ Š‡› •Šƒ”‡ ™Šƒ– ™‘”Â?• ˆ‘” –Š‡Â?ÇĄ ƒÂ?† ™‡ ”‡Žƒ› –Š‹• ‡š’‡”–‹•‡ –‘ ›‘—Ǥ ˜‡” –Š‡ Â›Â‡ÂƒÂ”Â•ÇĄ ÇŻÂ˜Â‡ Ž‡ƒ”Â?‡† –Šƒ– ÂŒÂ‹Â‰ÇŚÂ?ƒÂ?‹Â?‰ ‘ˆ–‡Â? ‹Â?˜‘Ž˜‡• ƒ Ž‹––Ž‡ ‹Â?’”‘˜‹•ƒ–‹‘Â?Ǥ ‘” ‡šƒÂ?’Ž‡ǥ Â?‘•– ‘ˆ Â?› Œ‹‰• …ƒÂ? „‡ Â?ƒ†‡ ˆ”‘Â? 1Ψ4"-, 1Ψ2"-, ƒÂ?† 3Ψ4̺nj–Š‹…Â? Â?ƒ–‡”‹ƒŽǤ ŠƒÂ?Â?• –‘ –Š‡ …‘—Â?–‡”•‹Â?Â?Ȁ…‘—Â?–‡”„‘”‡ „‹–•

Â?‡‡’ ‘Â? ŠƒÂ?† Č‹ÂƒÂŽÂ•Â‘ ˆ‡ƒ–—”‡† ‹Â? –Š‡ ÂƒÂ”Â–Â‹Â…ÂŽÂ‡ČŒÇĄ …ƒÂ? ‰‡– „› ™‹–Š ƒ Ž‹Â?‹–‡† Â?—Â?„‡” ‘ˆ Â?ƒ–‡”‹ƒŽ –Š‹…Â?Â?‡••‡• ƒÂ?† •…”‡™• •‹Â?’Ž› „› ƒ†Œ—•–‹Â?‰ –Š‡ †‡’–Š ‘ˆ …‘—Â?–‡”„‘”‡† …Ž‡ƒ”ƒÂ?…‡ Š‘Ž‡• ™Š‡Â? ƒ••‡Â?„Ž‹Â?‰ ƒ Œ‹‰Ǥ

April/May 2016

April/May 2016

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News & Views

ĂƐLJ ĂĐĐĞƐƐ ƚŽ ƐƵďƐĐƌŝďĞƌ ŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶ Many of the letters, phone calls, and emails we receive inquire about how to access subscriberonly content at our website (www. woodcraftmagazine.comȌ ϐ out when a subscription expires.

The answer to both questions is right on the mailing label ϐ issue you receive. Here’s how to decipher your mailing label:

In addition to serving as your access code to the website, your personal subscriber number can be used for other customer service issues, such as changing your address. (If you’re moving and have already packed your library, don’t fret. Just call or send an email with your name, old address, and new address, and we’ll take care of the rest.)

Personal subscriber number Bar code for mailing purposes

#000123456 6/1/2016

^ƵďƐĐƌŝƉƟŽŶ end date Your address

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JOHN DOE 123 MAIN ST PARKERSBURG, WV 26105

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April/May 2016

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How to reach us.

Email editor@ ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂŌŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ, or write to tŽŽĚĐƌĂŌ DĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A, Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV, 26102-7020.

Please include your full name, address, and phone number.

WƵďůŝƐŚĞĚ ůĞƩĞƌƐ ĂƌĞ ĞĚŝƚĞĚ for length and clarity.

D-I-Y for old machinery I am looking for a drive belt for an old Buffalo bandsaw, part #81055. When I go to stores, I’m told that they can’t locate this part, or that they don’t sell that brand. There has to be a crossover part somewhere. Can you please help!

—Randy Armentrout, via email Many vintage woodworking machines have plenty of life in them, but it takes effort and know-how to keep them in working order. Luckily, help is a mouse-click away. Vintagemachinery.org offers an impressive library of manuals, repair guides, and catalogs. If you’re interested in talking with woodworkers who are equally committed to saving old machinery, check out Old Woodworking Machinery (owwm.org).

Now for a little bad news. Based on my research, I’m betting that your saw was not manufactured in New York by the Buffalo Machine Tool Division, but is a newer, imported clone of Delta’s venerable

14" saw, and bears an American-sounding name.

Fear not. Bandsaws aren’t complicated; most can be revived with a few parts and minor tune-up. Go to your local Woodcraft and ask for a Power Twist Link belt. By adding or removing links, this belt can be ϔ machine. Another plus: because the links reduce vibration, your saw may run more smoothly than it did brand-new.

—J.H.

April/May 2016

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Hot New Tools ŽŵƉĂĐƚ ďƵƚ ƉŽǁĞƌĨƵů ďƌƵƐŚůĞƐƐ ƐĂŶĚĞƌƐ Festool ETS EC Series ETS EC 150/3

Today, many tool manufacturers are taking advantage of brushless technology to make portable power tools lighter and more compact, without any appreciable power loss. A brushless electric motor has other advantages, too: low vibration and greater longevity. Not surprisingly, Festool has developed a trio of new random-orbit sanders that exploit the advantages of brushless technology and add a few other high-tech features as well.

There are three brushless sander models in the ETS EC series, and they share the same plastic bodies and variable speed controls. Let’s start with the two models with 6"-dia. sanding pads. The 150/3 has a ͵ Ǧϐ sanding. The 150/5 has a 5mm sanding stroke. &Žƌ ŽƌĚĞƌŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƉƌŝĐŝŶŐ ŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶ͕ ƐĞĞ ƚŚĞ ƵLJĞƌ͛Ɛ 'ƵŝĚĞ ŽŶ ƉĂŐĞ ϲϳ͘

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ETS EC 125/3

ETS EC 150/3

6" disc

ETS EC 125/3

5" disc

ϐ ͳͷͲȀͷǡ Ǥ Ǧ Ǧ Ǥ ͳʹͷȀ͵ ͷ̶Ǧ Ǥ ͵ Ǥ Dz ǡdz ǡ ǡ ǯ ǡ ǡ ȋ ȌǤ ǡ ǡ Ǥ

Ǥ ͳͷͲȀͷ ǡ

ϐ Ǥ ͵ ϐ Ǥ

ͳͷͲȀͷ

Ǧ Ǥ

ǡ ǯ Ǧ Ǥ

ͳʹͷȀ͵ Ǥ

ǯ ϐ ǡ Ǥ ǯ ǡ ǡ ϐ Ǥ —Tim Snyder 1. Festool ETS EC 150/5 Brushless Sander #571892, $485 2. Festool ETS EC 150/3 Brushless Sander #571880, $485 3. Festool ETS EC 125/3 Brushless Sander #571897, $385

Photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert

April/May 2016

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Tips & Tricks TOP TIP Vise conversion Not having a proper woodworking vise, I’ve been forced to use my metalworking vise. However, its narrow, relatively small jaws are hardly ideal for woodshop chores.

To solve the problem, I cobbled up these ǡ ǡ ϐ jaws on woodworking vises. As shown, the magnetically attached 3Τ4"-thick hardwood jaws extend from the top edges of the metal jaws fully down the opening. Wooden tabs screwed to the ends of the jaws prevent ǡ ϐ blocks direct clamping pressure fully across the faces of the jaws when closed. The inserts don’t take long to make, and work great. Just make sure to inset the magnets ϐ Ǥ —Wayne Johnson, Grand Ledge, Michigan

Hardwood jaws

Tabs restrain jaws from sliding in use.

Ш2"-dia. rare-earth disc magnets

1

Filler block

^ŚĂƌĞ Ă ^ůŝĐŬ dŝƉ͘ tŝŶ ĂƐŚ or a Prize!

Here’s your chance to help someone become Ă ďĞƩĞƌ ǁŽŽĚǁŽƌŬĞƌ ĂŶĚ ŐĞƚ ƌĞǁĂƌĚĞĚ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ĞīŽƌƚ͘ dŚĞ ǁŝŶŶĞƌ ŽĨ ŶĞdžƚ ŝƐƐƵĞ͛Ɛ Top Tip award will receive a tŽŽĚĐƌĂŌ 'ŝŌ ĂƌĚ ǁŽƌƚŚ ΨϮϱϬ.

All others will receive ΨϭϮϱ for a published ŝůůƵƐƚƌĂƚĞĚ ƟƉ͕ Žƌ Ψϳϱ for a non-illustrated ƟƉ͘ WƵďůŝƐŚĞĚ ƟƉƐ ďĞĐŽŵĞ ƚŚĞ ƉƌŽƉĞƌƚLJ ŽĨ tŽŽĚĐƌĂŌ DĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ ^ĞŶĚ LJŽƵƌ ŝĚĞĂƐ ƚŽ͗ Tips & Tricks, tŽŽĚĐƌĂŌ DĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ, P.O. Box ϳϬϮϬ͕ WĂƌŬĞƌƐďƵƌŐ͕ ts ϮϲϭϬϮͲϳϬϮϬ Žƌ ǀŝƐŝƚ ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂŌŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ͕ ĂŶĚ ĐůŝĐŬ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ͞^ƵďŵŝƐƐŝŽŶƐ͟ ďŽdž͘ /ŵƉŽƌƚĂŶƚ͗ WůĞĂƐĞ ŝŶĐůƵĚĞ LJŽƵƌ ƉŚŽŶĞ ŶƵŵďĞƌ͕ ĂƐ ĂŶ ĞĚŝƚŽƌ ŵĂLJ ŶĞĞĚ ƚŽ ĐĂůů LJŽƵ ŝĨ LJŽƵƌ ƚƌŝĐŬ ŝƐ ĐŽŶƐŝĚĞƌĞĚ ĨŽƌ ƉƵďůŝĐĂƟŽŶ͘

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/ůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶƐ͗ ŚƌŝƐƚŽƉŚĞƌ DŝůůƐ

Tips & Tricks

DĂŐŶĞƟĐ ĐƌŽƐƐĐƵƚ ƐƚĂŶĚŽī When crosscutting at the tablesaw, never use the rip fence as a stop. That’s because the freed offcut, being trapped between the blade and the fence, wants to kick back.

One traditional approach is to clamp a thick stopblock/standoff to the rip fence forward of the blade, which both registers the cut and creates a safe “fall-off” space for the offcut between the blade and fence. To make things easier yet, I created a magnetic block for the job by installing a MagJig 150 Switchable Magnet in a piece of 3Τ4 × 21Τ2 × 3" wood. I use my rip fence scale to set up the cut, adding 21Τ2" to my desired crosscut length. Then I simply place the magnetic block against the fence, and I’m ready to cut.

—Tom Roessler, Appleton, Wisconsin

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To safely make ƌĞƉĞƟƟǀĞ ŝĚĞŶƟĐĂů crosscuts, register end of workpiece against ƐƚĂŶĚŽī ďůŽĐŬ ďĞĨŽƌĞ ƉƵƐŚŝŶŐ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ďůĂĚĞ͘

KƵƞŝƚ Ϯ1Ш2"-wide ƐƚĂŶĚŽī ďůŽĐŬ ǁŝƚŚ ƐǁŝƚĐŚĂďůĞ magnet.

To set up cut, add 21Ш2" to fence scale reading.

Quick-set pistol-grip clamp squeezes against table edges.

Ăƌ ƟŐŚƚůLJ ĮƚƐ in groove.

Quick-set bandsaw fence The bandsaw I inherited from my dad came to me without a fence, so I made a wooden one.

But rather than clamp it down to the table at each end, which can be problematic due to the cavity on the table underside, I decided to use a quick-set pistol-grip bar clamp to span the table, clamping to its sides instead. The length of the fence is just a tad shorter than the width of my saw table, and the groove in the top of the fence precisely matches the thickness of the clamp bar. The fence works great and couldn’t be faster to set up.

—Austin Zach, Omaha, Nebraska

Shelf bracket as workpiece support I regularly use my drill press to bore holes in the ends of long workpieces. Rather than setting up a freestanding, height-adjustable work support, I simply screwed a typical metal shelf standard to a nearby cabinet.

When working with long pieces, I just attach a shelf support bracket to the standard at the proper height to carry the workpiece.

—Fred Frommelt, Janesville, Wisconsin April/May 2016

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Tips & Tricks

Chipbreaker serves as guide, running against edge of tool rest.

Plane blade

Easy split double-faced tape Double-faced tape can be a woodworker’s best friend when it comes to temporarily attaching templates and holding parts together.

Unfortunately, it can be maddening trying to remove the backing from cut pieces.

Turns out there’s a simple solution: Instead of cutting the tape to length, tear it, which roughly separates the tape and backer, providing easy-to-grab layers.

—Serge Duclos, Delson, Québec

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Chipbreaker grinding guide When grinding a plane blade, you need a guide to ensure a straight edge. Some aftermarket tool rests include bladeholding jigs that run in a groove in the rest.

Alternatively, you can simply clamp to the blade a short wood or metal “fence” that runs along the front edge of the tool rest.

However, many metal-bodied planes have their own built-in guide of sorts. Simply switch the chipbreaker to the opposite side of the blade, and rotate it 90°. You can then slide the chipbreaker up or down as necessary to create the proper orientation to the grinding wheel, and then lock the chipbreaker in place using its own screw.

—Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk, senior editor

15°

SPRING CLAMP

Ш4"

3

Ш4"

3

Ƶƚ Žī ƚŽŶŐƵĞ at point.

^ŚŽƉͲŵĂĚĞ ƐƋƵĂƌŝŶŐ ƐƟĐŬƐ One of the best ways to check assemblies for square during glue-ups is to compare opposing diagonal measurements to make sure they match. And one of the best ways to do that is to use squaring sticks, also called pinch rods. I like to make my own, as shown here, using any straight-grained stock. The tongue-and-groove joint keeps the sticks aligned in use, while a spring clamp pinches them together to register the distance for comparison.

—Paul Anthony, senior editor

April/May 2016

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Make an A-frame Planter Ideal for container gardening in a small space, this ladder and ƉůĂƞŽƌŵ ĚĞƐŝŐŶ ĐĂŶ ĨŽůĚ ƵƉ ĂŶĚ ƐƚŽƌĞ ĞĂƐŝůLJ ǁŚĞŶ ŶŽƚ ŝŶ ƵƐĞ By

By Tim Tim Snyder Snyder

N

ot everyone has room for a backyard garden. This A-frame planter offers ample space for container gardening in a small (18" × 55") footprint. The frame supports three shelves that have hardware cloth decks for easy drainage.

When growing season ends, the A-frame folds up so that the entire unit can store compactly.

ϐ pressure-treated 5/4 and 1× pine that I bought from a home center. The planter I’m building on ǡ ϐ a solid-color outdoor stain. Cedar and cypress are two other woods ǡ ĞƚĂŝůƐ ŵĂŬĞ Ă ĚŝīĞƌĞŶĐĞ͘ ŚĂŵĨĞƌĞĚ ĞĚŐĞƐ ĞŶŚĂŶĐĞ ƚŚĞ ĨĞĞů ĂŶĚ because of their natural resistance ĂƉƉĞĂƌĂŶĐĞ ŽĨ ƐŚĞůĨ ƐŝĚĞƐ ĂŶĚ ůĂĚĚĞƌ ĨƌĂŵĞ͘ 'ĂůǀĂŶŝnjĞĚ ŚĂƌĚǁĂƌĞ to insects and moisture damage. ĐůŽƚŚ ƉƌŽǀŝĚĞƐ ĂŶ ĞĂƐLJͲĚƌĂŝŶŝŶŐ ƐƵƉƉŽƌƚ ƐƵƌĨĂĐĞ ĨŽƌ ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶĞƌƐ͘ 24

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April/May 2016

ĨŽůĚŝŶŐ ĨƌĂŵĞ ǁŝƚŚ ϯ ƉůĂŶƟŶŐ ƉůĂƞŽƌŵƐ

^ŝĚĞ ƉĂƩĞƌŶ ϭ ^ƋƵĂƌĞ с ϭΗ

STRAP HINGE 1" × 3"

The planter’s structure resembles a step ladder.

Identical leg pairs contain 3 rungs, which are through-mortised for strength and appearance.

3 planting platforms are supported on the rungs, ϐ Ǧ Ǥ TOP SHELF 26" long

DĂũŽƌ ŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ ^ƚĞƉƐ 1. ZŽƵƚ ĚĂĚŽĞƐ ŝŶ ϴ ůĞŐ ƉŝĞĐĞƐ (photo below). Then glue ůĞŐ ŚĂůǀĞƐ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͘ 2. Ƶƚ ůĞŐƐ ƚŽ ůĞŶŐƚŚ͘ 3. Ƶƚ ƚĞŶŽŶƐ ŽŶ ƌƵŶŐƐ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ŐůƵĞ ƌƵŶŐƐ ƚŽ ůĞŐƐ͘ ,ŝŶŐĞ ůĞŐ ĂƐƐĞŵďůŝĞƐ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͘ 4. ƐƐĞŵďůĞ ƐŚĞůǀĞƐ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ĐŽĂƚ ƚŚĞŵ ǁŝƚŚ ĞdžƚĞƌŝŽƌ ĮŶŝƐŚ͘ /ŶƐƚĂůů ŚĂƌĚǁĂƌĞ ĐůŽƚŚ͘ 5. ĚĚ ƐŝĚĞƐ ƚŽ ƐŚĞůǀĞƐ͘ 6. ƌŝůů ŚŽůĞƐ ŝŶ ĨƌĂŵĞ ĂŶĚ ƐŚĞůĨ ƐŝĚĞƐ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ŝŶƐƚĂůů dͲŶƵƚƐ ŝŶ ƐŚĞůĨ ƐŝĚĞƐ͘ 7. WƌŽƚĞĐƚ ĞŶƟƌĞ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ ǁŝƚŚ ĞdžƚĞƌŝŽƌ ĮŶŝƐŚ͘

Rung Detail

LEG 11Ш8 × 23Ш4 × 581Ш2"

151Ш2"

Ш2"

1

MIDDLE SHELF 41" long Through ŵŽƌƟƐĞ 1 × 11Ш2"

1 Ш4" 3

11Ш2" 151Ш2" Overall rung dimensions: 11Ш8"t × 21Ш2"w × 191Ш2"l BOTTOM SHELF 55" long

671Ш2° 10"

Rout dadoes to make ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ͘ /ŶƐƚĞĂĚ ŽĨ ĐƌĞĂƟŶŐ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ ďLJ ƉůƵŶŐĞͲ ƌŽƵƟŶŐ͕ / ƵƐĞĚ Ă ƐƚƌĂŝŐŚƚĞĚŐĞ ŐƵŝĚĞ ĂŶĚ ƉĂƩĞƌŶͲĐƵƫŶŐ ďŝƚ ƚŽ rout 1Ш2Η ĚĞĞƉ ĚĂĚŽĞƐ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ϴ ŝĚĞŶƟĐĂů ďŽĂƌĚƐ͘ dŚĞŶ / ŐůƵĞĚ ƚŚĞ ďŽĂƌĚƐ ƵƉ ŝŶ ƉĂŝƌƐ ƚŽ ĐƌĞĂƚĞ ϰ ůĞŐƐ͘ >Ğƚ ƚŚĞ ůĞŐ ŚĂůǀĞƐ ƌƵŶ ůŽŶŐ͕ ƐŽ LJŽƵ ĐĂŶ ŵĂŬĞ ƚŚĞ ĂŶŐůĞĚ ĞŶĚ ĐƵƚƐ ĂŌĞƌ ŐůƵĞƵƉ͘ dŚĞ ƐĂŵĞ ŐĂŶŐͲ ĐƵƫŶŐ ƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ƵƐĞĚ ƚŽ ĐƌĞĂƚĞ ƚŚĞ 13Ш4ΗͲůŽŶŐ ƚĞŶŽŶƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƌƵŶŐƐ͘ ^ŝŵƉůLJ ĐůĂŵƉ ƚŚĞ ƌƵŶŐƐ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ƌŽƵƚ ĂǁĂLJ ƚŚĞ ǁĂƐƚĞ͘ KƉĞŶŝŶŐ ƉŚŽƚŽƐ͗ WĂƵů ŶƚŚŽŶLJ͖ WƌŽũĞĐƚ ƉŚŽƚŽƐ͗ ZĂŶĚLJ K͛ZŽƵƌŬĞ͖ /ůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶƐ͗ ŚƌŝƐƚŽƉŚĞƌ DŝůůƐ

Assemble the legs. 'ůƵĞ ƚŚĞ ƌƵŶŐƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞŝƌ ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ ƚŽ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞ ůĞŐ ĂƐƐĞŵďůŝĞƐ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ĐŚĂŵĨĞƌ ůĞŐ ĞĚŐĞƐ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ĞŶĚƐ ŽĨ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ ƚĞŶŽŶƐ April/May 2016

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DĂŬĞ ƐŚĞůǀĞƐ ĚĞƐŝŐŶĞĚ ĨŽƌ ĚƌĂŝŶĂŐĞ Shelf lengths are shown in the drawing on p. 25. For overall shelf width, subtract 3Τ 16" from the distance between legs. Each shelf has a pair of rails connected by a combination of narrow and wide crosspieces. Complete all rail-and-crosspiece ϐ ǡ ϐ Ǥ Then install hardware cloth and shelf sides. Once your shelves are complete, you can put them in place on the ladder frame, and drill for bolts and T-nuts.

ϮΗ ǁĂƐŚĞƌͲŚĞĂĚ ƐĐƌĞǁ

,ĞdžͲŚĞĂĚ ďŽůƚ 1 Ш4ͲϮϬ п ϮΗ

dͲŶƵƚ Ш4ͲϮϬ п ϮΗ

1

^, >& ^/ 3 Ш4 п Ϯ1Ш4" NARROW ZK^^W/ 3 Ш4 п ϭ1Ш2"

11Ш2Η ǁĂƐŚĞƌͲŚĞĂĚ ƐĐƌĞǁ

11Ш8"

21Ш4Η ĚŝĂ͘ ĐƵƌǀĞ

Z /> 3 Ш4 п ϭΗ

Ш4Η ǁĂƐŚĞƌͲŚĞĂĚ ƐĐƌĞǁ

3

t/ ZK^^W/ 3 Ш4 п ϯ1Ш2" Assemble 3 shelf frames. hƐĞ ƉŽůLJƵƌĞƚŚĂŶĞ ŐůƵĞ ĂŶĚ ϮΗ ĮŶŝƐŚ ŶĂŝůƐ ƚŽ ũŽŝŶ ƌĂŝůƐ ƚŽ ĐƌŽƐƐƉŝĞĐĞƐ͘ dŚĞŶ ƌĞŝŶĨŽƌĐĞ ĞĂĐŚ ĐŽŶŶĞĐƟŽŶ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ϮΗ ǁĂƐŚĞƌͲŚĞĂĚ ƐĐƌĞǁ͘

dŝƉƐ ĨŽƌ ǁŽƌŬŝŶŐ ǁŝƚŚ ŚĂƌĚǁĂƌĞ ĐůŽƚŚ • Wear work gloves. ,ĂŶĚůŝŶŐ ƐƟī ƐƚĞĞů ƐƚƌĂŶĚƐ ĐĂŶ ĐĂƵƐĞ ŶĂƐƚLJ ƐĐƌĂƉĞƐ͕ ƐŽ ƉƌŽƚĞĐƚ LJŽƵƌ ŚĂŶĚƐ͘ • Cut close to the joints. ŽŶ͛ƚ ůĞĂǀĞ ƐŚĂƌƉ ƉƌŽƚƌƵĚŝŶŐ ƐƚƵďƐ ƚŚĂƚ ĐĂŶ ĐĂƚĐŚ ŽŶ ƐŬŝŶ ĂŶĚ ĐůŽƚŚĞƐ͘ hƐĞ Ă ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ ǁŝƌĞ ƐŶŝƉƐ ƚŽ ƚƌŝŵ ĂůŽŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƐƋƵĂƌĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ͘ • Fold over the ends. Ƶƚ ĞĂĐŚ ƉŝĞĐĞ ĂďŽƵƚ ϮΗ ůŽŶŐĞƌ ƚŚĂŶ ƚŚĞ ƐŚĞůĨ ǁŚĞƌĞ ŝƚ ǁŝůů ďĞ ŝŶƐƚĂůůĞĚ͘ &ŽůĚ ŽǀĞƌ ƚŚĞ ůĂƐƚ ŝŶĐŚ ŽŶ ĞĂĐŚ ĞŶĚ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ŚĂŵŵĞƌ ƚŚĞ ĨŽůĚĞĚ ƐĞĐƟŽŶ ŇĂƚ ƚŽ ĐƌĞĂƚĞ Ă ƐĂĨĞ͕ ƐƚƌŽŶŐ ĞŶĚ͘ 26

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ

April/May 2016

Screw down the hardware cloth. 3Ш4Η ǁĂƐŚĞƌͲŚĞĂĚ ƐĐƌĞǁƐʹ ŵĂĚĞ ĨŽƌ ŝŶƐƚĂůůŝŶŐ ǁŝƌĞ ůĂƚŚʹĚŽ Ă ŐŽŽĚ ũŽď ŽĨ ŚŽůĚŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ǁŝƌĞ ŝŶ ƉůĂĐĞ͘ ůĂŵƉŝŶŐ Ă ĐůĞĂƚ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ƚŚĞ ĐůŽƚŚ ŶĞĂƌ ƚŚĞ ĐĞŶƚĞƌ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƐŚĞůĨ ŵĂŬĞƐ ŝƚ ĞĂƐLJ ƚŽ ŬĞĞƉ ƚŚĞ ĐůŽƚŚ ŇĂƚ ĂŶĚ ĂůŝŐŶĞĚ͘

Shelf side

Curve rail ends with a hole saw. Instead of using a drill press to radius the ends of shelf sides, I made a drilling jig for use with a 21Ш4" hole saw. ŌĞƌ ĚƌŝůůŝŶŐ Ă ŚŽůĞ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ ƚŚĞ ƚŽƉ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ũŝŐ ;ƉŚŽƚŽ Ăƚ ƌŝŐŚƚͿ͕ ĂƩĂĐŚ ĂůŝŐŶŵĞŶƚ ďůŽĐŬƐ ƚŚĂƚ ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶ ƚŚĞ ĞŶĚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ǁŽƌŬƉŝĞĐĞ ƚŽ ĐƵƚ ĂŶ ĂƌĐ͘ Alignment ďůŽĐŬ

21Ш4" hole saw

11Ш8"

Top of drilling jig Alignment ďůŽĐŬ

Drill for screws & T-nuts. With the shelf centered on its rungs, drill through the leg and the shelf side with a 5Ш16Η ďŝƚ͕ ƚŚĞŶ install a 1Ш4-20 × 2" dͲŶƵƚ ƚŽ ĂŶĐŚŽƌ Ă ŵĂƚĐŚŝŶŐ ŵĂĐŚŝŶĞ ďŽůƚ͘ / used a small drilling jig that straddles the rung and locates the hole 11Ш8Η ĂďŽǀĞ ƚŚĞ ƌƵŶŐ͘ dǁŽ ďŽůƚƐ ǁŝůů ŚŽůĚ ĞĂĐŚ ƐŚĞůĨ ŝŶ ƉůĂĐĞ͘

Go green. ƉŽƌĐŚ͕ ƉĂƟŽ Žƌ ůĂŶĚŝŶŐ ŝƐ Ă ŐƌĞĂƚ ƉůĂĐĞ ƚŽ ƐĞƚ ƵƉ LJŽƵƌ ƉůĂŶƚĞƌ ĂŶĚ ƉƵƚ ŝƚ ƚŽ ǁŽƌŬ͘ April/May 2016

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10 Tips for Turning Tricky Wood /ŵƉĞƌĨĞĐƟŽŶƐ ƉƌŽǀŝĚĞ ƚŚĞ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚ ŽƉƉŽƌƚƵŶŝƚLJ ƚŽ ĐƌĞĂƚĞ ƵŶŝƋƵĞ ǀĞƐƐĞůƐ

By Phil Gautreau

M

y specialty is turned wood bowls and vases made ϐ ǡ interesting wood. I’ve come to enjoy the challenges presented by blanks with unusual Ȃ ǡ ǡ ǡ ǡ ǡ Ǧ ϐ grain conditions. The tips explained here are especially important for turning the “tricky” wood described above. ǯ ϐ them helpful for many other types of turning projects.

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1. Source wood ĐƌĞĂƟǀĞůLJ Θ ĐĂƌĞĨƵůůLJ͘ ϐ ǡ especially when you live in a big city like I do. I’ve purchased many blanks from a handful of trusted sellers on eBay. When I can’t physically ǡ

rely on images supplied by the seller along with a detailed description. So I insist on good photos and accurate details with regard to

April/May 2016

ǡ ǡ ǡ characteristics. It helps greatly when the seller has roughed out the blank so I can see more of the grain. I prefer air-dried or kiln-dried wood over green wood because dry wood is more stable. ǡ ϐ ǡ the intermediate drying Ǥ

2. Catalog & protect your blanks.

If I’m not planning on turning a blank right away, I label it to keep track of basic information–species, size, seller’s name, purchase date, cost, and (in some cases) a client or craft show destination ϐ Ǥ ǯ moisture and temperature extremes when Ǥ

Ǥ ǡ

ȋ

Ȍ

Ǥ

ǡ Ǥ

3. Allow unusual features to inspire the design. ǡ ϐ ǡ unusual markings, color or texture changes or features Ǥ Ǥ ǡ

Ǥ ϐ Ǥ

ŝŐ ůĞĂĨ ŵĂƉůĞ ďƵƌů ďŽǁů͕ ŚŝŐŚůLJ ĮŐƵƌĞĚ͕ with bark inclusions (10 × 7").

Spalted and quilted sugar maple bowl with bark inclusions (131Ш2 × 3").

Photos: Micah Rubin

Yew wood vase with large bark inclusions and knots (4 × 9").

4. Work safe.

I switched from safety goggles to a full face shield after a chunk of spalted maple sent me to the hospital for Ǥ When I began to turn yew ǡ

Ǧ ǡ Ǧ respirator as protection Ǥ

ǯ turning certain wood species and always when I’m sanding Ǥ ϐ

Ǥ

ϐ

Ǥ ϐ

Ǥ April/May 2016

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1 Ш4" ^ƉŝŶĚůĞ 'ŽƵŐĞ

Ш16" ŝĂŵŽŶĚ WĂƌƟŶŐ dŽŽů

3

1 Ш2Η ZŽƵŶĚŶŽƐĞ 11Ш2Η ,ĞĂǀLJͲ ^ĐƌĂƉĞƌ ƵƚLJ ^ĐƌĂƉĞƌ 11Ш2Η ,ĞĂǀLJͲ 11Ш2Η ,ĞĂǀLJͲ 1Ш2" Skew 3 Ш8" Bowl ;ZŽƵŶĚĞĚ ƵƚLJ ^ĐƌĂƉĞƌ ƵƚLJ ŚŝƐĞů 'ŽƵŐĞ 1Ш2" Bowl ĞǀĞůͿ DƵůƟͲdŝƉ ; ŝĂŐŽŶĂů ^ĐƌĂƉĞƌ 3 'ŽƵŐĞ ^ĐƌĂƉĞƌ ĞǀĞůͿ ;&ůĂƚ ĞǀĞůͿ Ш8Η ^ƉŝŶĚůĞ ; ŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂů 'ŽƵŐĞ ŐƌŝŶĚͿ ;ŶŽƚ ƐŚŽǁŶͿ 3Ш4Η ZŽƵŐŚŝŶŐ 'ŽƵŐĞ͕ 3Ш8Η Žǁů &ŝŶŝƐŚŝŶŐ ^ĐƌĂƉĞƌ

Hollow DĂƐƚĞƌ

ϱ͘ ,ĂǀĞ Ă ŐŽŽĚ ƐĞůĞĐƟŽŶ ŽĨ ͞ŐŽͲƚŽ͟ ƚŽŽůƐ͘ Since there’s no such thing as a “typical” tricky blank, my tool selection depends on blank characteristics and the desired design. I’ve come to rely on the gouges, scrapers, and parting tools shown above. If the blank is fairly cylindrical to start, I’m likely to true it up using 1Τ2" bowl gouge with a swept-back grind.

With odd-shaped blanks I use

a parting tool to create relief cuts followed by cleanup with a roughing gouge or bowl gouge.

My square end scraper does a good job of lightly cleaning ǯ ϐ Ǥ When hollowing the inside of the vessel I start with a diamond parting tool to a depth of approximately 1Τ2" to create the initial interior wall.

Using this as a guide, I begin hollowing using a 1Τ2" or 3Τ4" bowl gouge with conventional grind, taking scooping cuts.

I clean up the interior with a variety of scrapers to blend and smooth the curved ϐ the vessel. My favorites are a 3Τ4" round/side cut scraper and a 1Τ2" roundnose scraper.

ϲ͘ tĂƚĐŚ LJŽƵƌ ƐƉĞĞĚ Θ ĨĞĞĚ ƉƌĞƐƐƵƌĞ͘ I’ll set speed as low as 300 RPM for imbalanced ǡ ͳǡͷͲͲ ϐ true-up. I take care to present the tool to the wood carefully, avoiding aggressive feed pressure until I’m in an area where wood grain and density are consistent. It’s important to know where the voids and variations are located in your blank.

Areas with bark inclusions and density variations can throw off chunks. I try to minimize this by dropping RPMs when turning a vulnerable section.

30

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ

April/May 2016

7. Stop more ĨƌĞƋƵĞŶƚůLJ͘ Turning tricky wood is the opposite of production Ǥ ǡ

ǯ Ǥ ǯ

ǯ Ǥ With the work stationary, I also see if new ϐ Ǥ Ǥ

9. Improve patching ĂŶĚ ĮŶŝƐŚŝŶŐ ƐŬŝůůƐ͘

ϐ ǡ

Ǥ

Ǥ cracks or bark inclusions that contain voids, I

Ǧ ϐ Ǥ

Ǥ ϐ Ǥ I apply a thin coat of Watco Butcher Block Oil, ǡ Ǥ ϐ Ǧ ϐ ȋͲͲͲͲȌ ǡ Ǥ ϐ ǡ but I prefer applying

Ǥ ǣ Prevent the Boos ϐ in bark inclusions by ϐ Ǥ

8. Stay sharp.

Sharp tools are essential with any kind of ǡ ϐ Ǥ sharp cutting edge will help keep a bark

Ǥ

ϐ bed to suit the proper bevel angle for the Ǥ

Ǥ Ǧ

ϐ Ǥ

10. Learn from LJŽƵƌ ŵŝƐƚĂŬĞƐ͘

provided various lessons in what not Ǥ Ǣ ǯ Ǥ ǯ ǯ Ǥ

Ǥ April/May 2016

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Work Smarter with a Standing Desk ƌĞĂƚĞ Ă ĐŽŵƉĂĐƚ ǁŽƌŬ ƐƚĂƟŽŶ that’s higher & healthier LJ ŚƌŝƐ ,ĞĚŐĞƐ

S

itting all day is one of the worst things we can do to our bodies.

Unfortunately, many of us have jobs that force us to do just that. The penalties for extended periods of sitting are familiar to many: unnecessary weight gain, neck and back pain, and poor cardiovascular health, just for starters. Standing desks ϐ these ill effects. In fact, research has shown that switching to a standing desk not only improves health; it can also improve mood and work performance.

My standing desk incorporates traditional joinery details and pleasing proportions in a design that can easily accommodate a laptop or desktop computer.

The desk’s small footprint ϐ ϐ setting. Although the desk shown here is made from ash and cherry, other cabinetgrade woods can also be used. When building your own version, just make sure to adjust the length of the legs so that the desk’s top is at the proper height (see sidebar, facing page).

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April/May 2016

dƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂů ĚĞƚĂŝůƐ͕ ŵŽĚĞƌŶ ĨƵŶĐƟŽŶĂůŝƚLJ͘ This desk ŵĂŬĞƐ ĂŶ ĞdžĐĞůůĞŶƚ ĐŽŵƉƵƚĞƌ ǁŽƌŬ ƐƚĂƟŽŶ͕ ĂŶĚ ĨĞĂƚƵƌĞƐ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝů ĂŶĚ ŵŽƌƟƐĞͲĂŶĚͲƚĞŶŽŶ ũŽŝŶĞƌLJ͘

Legs, rails, and aprons In style and construction, this desk resembles a bedside table–but with longer legs.

It’s important to adjust leg length so that the desk’s work surface is at a comfortable height for the user (see sidebar, below).

TOP 3 Ш4 × 311Ш4 × 201Ш2" 183Ш4"

26"

DRAWER (See page 38.)

DOWEL PIN Ш4" dia.

1

FRONT APRON Ш4 × 51Ш4 × 231Ш4" (incl. tenons) (See page 35.)

SIDE APRON 3 Ш4 × 51Ш4 × 151Ш4" (incl. tenons)

3

LEG 13Ш4"sq × 411Ш4"l (See page 34.)

42"

Scribe rail shoulder to match leg taper.

STRETCHER 3 Ш4 × 11Ш2 × 241Ш2" (incl. tenons)

RAIL 3 Ш4 × 11Ш2 × 17" (incl. tenons)

Taper legs on inside faces only. Begin taper cuts 6" from top of leg.

1

dŚƌŽƵŐŚ ŵŽƌƟƐĞ Ш4"w × 11Ш4"l

11Ш4"

Think About Elbows When Sizing a Standing Desk >ŝŬĞ Ă ĐŽŶǀĞŶƟŽŶĂů ĚĞƐŬ͕ Ă ƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐ ĚĞƐŬ can have a work surface that’s small, large or anything in between. But there ŝƐ ŽŶĞ ĐƌŝƟĐĂů ĚŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶ͗ ǁŽƌŬ ƐƵƌĨĂĐĞ height. Ideally, this should be at or just slightly below elbow height when you’re standing at the desk (see drawing). For ƉƌŽůŽŶŐĞĚ ƐƟŶƚƐ Ăƚ Ă ƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐ ĚĞƐŬ͕ ergonomic experts recommend a fairly level sightline to a computer monitor, and a typing posture that puts arms at a right angle. While some commercial desks ŽīĞƌ ĂĚũƵƐƚĂďůĞͲŚĞŝŐŚƚ ƚŽƉƐ͕ ŵĂŶLJ ƵƐĞƌƐ ƐŝŵƉůLJ ƵƐĞ ďůŽĐŬŝŶŐ Žƌ ƉůĂƞŽƌŵƐ ƚŽ ĂĐŚŝĞǀĞ the most comfortable working height.

In this case, you can build your desk to Įƚ ďLJ ĂĚũƵƐƟŶŐ ƚŚĞ ůĞŶŐƚŚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ůĞŐƐ͘

11Ш4" ϮϬΣ Ɵůƚ

20"-28" to screen

Add blocking if needed.

KƉĞŶŝŶŐ ƉŚŽƚŽ͗ :ŝŵ KƐďŽƌŶ͖ WƌŽũĞĐƚ ƉŚŽƚŽƐ͗ >ĂƌƌLJ ,ĂŵĞůͲ>ĂŵďĞƌƚ͖ /ůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶƐ͗ :ŽŚŶ ,ĂƌƚŵĂŶ

Table height should be at or slightly below elbow height.

The keyboard or other equipment you’re using will have an impact on table height, so it’s smart to ŵŽĐŬ ƵƉ ĚŝīĞƌĞŶƚ desk heights and try out your gear.

April/May 2016

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DŽƌƟƐĞ ƚŚĞ ůĞŐƐ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ŵĂŬĞ ƚĂƉĞƌ ĐƵƚƐ on the tablesaw ϐ ǡ Ǥ ǡ Ǧ

ϐ Ǥ ǡ

Dz dz ϐ Ǥ

ǯ

Ǥ

Ǥ

ŶĚ ŐƌĂŝŶ ŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶ͘ DĂƌŬ ůĞŐ ĞŶĚƐ ƚŽ ŬĞĞƉ ƚƌĂĐŬ ŽĨ ůĞŐ ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĮŶŝƐŚĞĚ ĚĞƐŬ͘

DŽƌƟƐĞ Θ ƚĞŶŽŶ ĚĞƚĂŝůƐ dŚĞ ƐƚĞƉƉĞĚ ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ are designed to accommodate the movement of a wide tenon by dividing it in two.

Rather than squaring ^ƚĞƉƉĞĚ ŵŽƌƟƐĞ the ends of apron ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ ƚŽ Įƚ ƚŚĞ tenons, I simply rout them slightly longer, as shown in the drawing.

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111Ш4" DŽƌƟƐĞ Ш4"w × 3Ш4"l × 1"d

1

^ƚĞƉƉĞĚ DŽƌƟƐĞ Θ dĞŶŽŶ ĞƚĂŝů

Ш8"

5

Ш2"

1

11Ш2"

Ш8"

7

Ш8"

5

13Ш4" 1" 51Ш4"

Ш4"

3

13Ш4" 11Ш2"

Ш8"

5

ůĂŵƉ ƵƉ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ůĂLJ ŽƵƚ͘ &Žƌ ƐƉĞĞĚ ĂŶĚ ĂĐĐƵƌĂĐLJ͕ / ƐƚĂƌƚ ŵĂƌŬŝŶŐ ŵŽƌƟƐĞ ůŽĐĂƟŽŶƐ ǁŝƚŚ ůĞŐƐ ĐůĂŵƉĞĚ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͘

ƵƐŚŝŶŐͲŐƵŝĚĞĚ ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ͘ Separate ŵŽƌƟƐŝŶŐ ũŝŐƐ ĂƌĞ ƌĞƋƵŝƌĞĚ ĨŽƌ ƌĂŝů ĂŶĚ ĂƉƌŽŶ ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ͘ ĂĐŚ ŝƐ ƐŝnjĞĚ ĨŽƌ a 3Ш4" O.D. bushing. I use a 1Ш4" spiral upcut bit in my plunge router.

34

413Ш4"

April/May 2016

dĂƉĞƌ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ƐůĞĚ ũŝŐ͘ The ďĂƐĞ ŽĨ ŵLJ ƚĂƉĞƌŝŶŐ ũŝŐ ŝƐ guided by the rip fence, ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ǁŽƌŬŝŶŐ ĞĚŐĞ ŝƐ ŇƵƐŚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ďůĂĚĞ͘ ƩĂĐŚ ŐƵŝĚĞ ďůŽĐŬƐ and toggle clamps to hold each leg securely.

Set up cuts carefully so that only leg sides with ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ ĂƌĞ ƚĂƉĞƌĞĚ͘

ƌĞĂƚĞ Ă ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ŽƉĞŶŝŶŐ ďLJ ĐƵƫŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĂƉƌŽŶ ĂƉĂƌƚ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ŐůƵŝŶŐ ŝƚ ďĂĐŬ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ

ϐ ǡ

ǡ ǯ Ǥ ǡ

ǡ

ȋ Ȍǡ

Ǥ ǯ ϐ ȋ Ȍ ǡ

ϐ Ǥ

Ǥ

&ƌŽŶƚ ĂƉƌŽŶ ĐƵƫŶŐ ĚŝĂŐƌĂŵ ^ƚĂƌƚ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ďůĂŶŬ Ăƚ ůĞĂƐƚ ϱ1Ш2Η ǁŝĚĞ ĂŶĚ ϮϱΗ ůŽŶŐ͘ DĂŬĞ Ϯ ƌŝƉĐƵƚƐ ĮƌƐƚ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ĐƵƚ ŽƵƚ ƚŚĞ ǁĂƐƚĞ ĂŶĚ ŐůƵĞ ƵƉ ƚŚĞ ĂƉƌŽŶ͘ 1st two ripcuts

33Ш4"

171Ш4"

Ш8" 2ϱШ8"

7

E W/ t ^d W/

Glue up 4 pieces. ^ĂǁŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƌĞĂƐƐĞŵďůŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĂƉƌŽŶ ŵĂŝŶƚĂŝŶƐ ŐƌĂŝŶ ĐŽŶƟŶƵŝƚLJ͘ WŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƐƚƌŝƉƐ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ĞŶĚƐ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ĮŶŝƐŚ ŶĂŝůĞƌ ƚŽ ƉƌĞǀĞŶƚ ƉĂƌƚƐ ĨƌŽŵ ƐŚŝŌŝŶŐ ĚƵƌŝŶŐ ĐůĂŵƉͲƵƉ͘

E W/ TENON

&ŝŶŝƐŚĞĚ ĂƉƌŽŶ ĚŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶƐ ;ŝŶĐů͘ 7Ш8ΗͲůŽŶŐ ƚĞŶŽŶƐͿ Front & rear: 3Ш4 п ϱ1Ш4 × 231Ш4" Sides: 3Ш4 п ϱ1Ш4 п ϭϱ1Ш4"

Ƶƚ ƚĞŶŽŶƐ Θ ŐƌŽŽǀĞƐ ƚŽ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞ ƚŚĞ ĂƉƌŽŶƐ

ϐ ȋ ǡ Ȍǡ

ȋ Ȍǡ

Ǥ

ǡ Ǥ

ȋ ͵͹ȌǤ

ǯ Ǥ

April/May 2016

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35

ƌLJͲĮƚ ƚŚĞ ĚĞƐŬ ƚŽ ůĂLJ ŽƵƚ ƚŚĞ ůŽǁĞƌ ƌĂŝů ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ The joinery for the desk’s upper structure is complete. Now it’s time to work on the lower rail assembly, which consists of a pair of rails joined by a stretcher. The stretcher tenons extend all the way through the rails. The rail tenons need to Ǧϐ will match the tapered legs. To ǡ Ǧϐ Ǧ Ǧ apron assembly, making sure that the desk structure sits ϐ Ǥ Ǧ type jigs enables me to cut the angled tenon shoulders on the tablesaw, using my stack dado.

^ĐƌŝďĞ ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ƌĂŝůƐ͘ tŽƌŬŝŶŐ ŽŶ Ă ŇĂƚ ƉůĂƞŽƌŵ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ĚĞƐŬ͛Ɛ ůĞŐƐ ĂŶĚ ĂƉƌŽŶƐ ĐůĂŵƉĞĚ ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ͕ / ĐƵƚ Ă ƉŝĞĐĞ ŽĨ ƉůLJǁŽŽĚ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ƉƌŽƉĞƌ ǁŝĚƚŚ ƐŽ ŝƚ ĐĂŶ ŚŽůĚ ĞĂĐŚ ƌĂŝů ŝŶ ƉůĂĐĞ Ăƚ ŵŽƌƟƐĞ ŚĞŝŐŚƚ͘ dŚĞ ůĞŐƐ ŐƵŝĚĞ ŵLJ ŵĂƌŬŝŶŐ ŬŶŝĨĞ ĂƐ / ƐĐƌŝďĞ ƚŚĞ ƐŚŽƵůĚĞƌ ůŝŶĞƐ ĨŽƌ ƌĂŝů ƚĞŶŽŶƐ͘ LJ ƐĞƫŶŐ Ă ďĞǀĞů ŐĂƵŐĞ ĂŐĂŝŶƐƚ ƚŚĞ ƉůLJǁŽŽĚ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ůĞŐ͕ / ĐĂƉƚƵƌĞ ƚŚĞ ĂŶŐůĞƐ ƌĞƋƵŝƌĞĚ ƚŽ ŵĂŬĞ ƚŚĞ ũŝŐƐ ƐŚŽǁŶ ďĞůŽǁ͘

'ůƵĞ Θ ƉŝŶ͘ ŌĞƌ ƌŽƵƟŶŐ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚͲ ŵŽƌƟƐĞƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƌĂŝůƐ ĂŶĚ ĐŚŝƐĞůŝŶŐ ƚŚĞŵ ƐƋƵĂƌĞ͕ ŐůƵĞ ƚŚĞ ƐƚƌĞƚĐŚĞƌ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ƌĂŝůƐ ĂŶĚ ƉŝŶ ĞĂĐŚ ũŽŝŶƚ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ 1Ш8ΗͲĚŝĂ͘ ƉĞŐƐ͘ ^ůĞĚ ũŝŐƐ ĚŽ ƚŚĞ ƚƌŝĐŬ͘ ĞƐŝŐŶĞĚ ƚŽ ƌƵŶ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŵŝƚĞƌ ŐĂƵŐĞ ŐƌŽŽǀĞ͕ ƚŚĞƐĞ ŵĂƚĐŚŝŶŐ ũŝŐƐ ĂƌĞ ŵĂƌŬĞĚ ͞Z͟ ĂŶĚ ͞>͟ ƚŽ ŝĚĞŶƟĨLJ ƚŚĞ ĂŶŐůĞĚ ĐƵƚƐ ƚŚĂƚ ŶĞĞĚ ƚŽ ďĞ ŵĂĚĞ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ůŽǁĞƌ ƌĂŝůƐ͘ / ƚƌĂŶƐĨĞƌ ƚŚĞ ůĞŐ ƚĂƉĞƌƐ ƚŽ ĞĂĐŚ ũŝŐ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ďĞǀĞů ŐĂƵŐĞ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ƐĐƌĞǁ ĂůŝŐŶŵĞŶƚ ĐůĞĂƚƐ ƚŽ ĞĂĐŚ ũŝŐ͘ ŌĞƌ ĐƵƫŶŐ ƚĞŶŽŶ ĐŚĞĞŬƐ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƚĂďůĞƐĂǁ͕ / ŚĂŶĚͲĐƵƚ ƌĂŝů ƚĞŶŽŶƐ ƚŽ ĮŶŝƐŚĞĚ ǁŝĚƚŚ͘

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Prepare drawer runners, assemble the desk, ƚŚĞŶ ĂƩĂĐŚ ƚŚĞ ƚŽƉ I need to make a pair of drawer runners before I can assemble the desk. Each runner is a twopart assembly. Using a dado joint to connect the side and bottom pieces (see drawing) ensures that they’ll always provide true alignment in guiding the drawer. For similar reasons, I don’t want to rely on fasteners to hold the drawer Ǥ ǡ ǯ ϐ in grooves I made earlier in the front and back aprons. When making the runners, take your Ǧϐ ǡ ϐ Ǥ are complete, you can assemble the desk.

Desk Assembly Details DĂŬĞ ƐƵƌĞ ƚŚĞ ƚĞŶŽŶƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ƌƵŶŶĞƌ ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ Įƚ ƐŶƵŐůLJ in the front and rear apron grooves. It’s also important for the ďŽƩŽŵ ĂŶĚ ƐŝĚĞ ŽĨ ĞĂĐŚ ƌƵŶŶĞƌ ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ ƚŽ ďĞ ŇƵƐŚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ĂŶĚ ƐŝĚĞƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ŽƉĞŶŝŶŐ͘ FRONT LEG

STEPPED TENON

FRONT APRON

DRAWER OPENING

Groove for ƚŽƉ ďƵƩŽŶ 3 Ш16"w × 3Ш8"d

Cut top ďƵƩŽŶ ƚĞŶŽŶ ƚŽ Įƚ ƐŶƵŐůLJ in groove.

Groove for tenon in runner assembly

SIDE APRON

DRAWER RUNNER SIDE (Runs full length) 3 Ш4"t × 1"w DRAWER RUNNER BOTTOM 3 Ш4"t × 2"w

dǁŽͲƐƚĂŐĞ ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ͘ First, join the front legs to the front apron and the rear legs to the rear apron. Then join these subassemblies together with the drawer runners, side ĂƉƌŽŶƐ͕ ĂŶĚ ůŽǁĞƌ ƌĂŝů ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ͘ / ƟŐŚƚĞŶ ĐůĂŵƉƐ ůŝŐŚƚůLJ ǁŚĞŶ ƚŚĞ ĚĞƐŬ ŝƐ ůLJŝŶŐ ŇĂƚ ĂƐ ƐŚŽǁŶ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƉŚŽƚŽ͘ dŚĞŶ / ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶ ƚŚĞ ĚĞƐŬ ƵƉƌŝŐŚƚ ƚŽ ŵĂŬĞ ƐƵƌĞ ŝƚ ƐƚĂŶĚƐ ŇĂƚ and square before applying more clamping pressure.

Dado, Ш8"d

1

ƵƩŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƚŽƉ͘ Side and back aprons each get a pair of ǁŽŽĚ ďƵƩŽŶƐ ƚŚĂƚ ĂƌĞ ƌĂďďĞƩĞĚ ƚŽ Įƚ ŝŶ ĂƉƌŽŶ ƐůŽƚƐ͘ April/May 2016

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ƚƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂů ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ǁŝƚŚ ƚǁŽ ŬŝŶĚƐ ŽĨ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝůƐ I wanted this desk to have traditional details from top to bottom. That’s why I built the drawer using solid wood and dovetail joinery. As shown in the drawing, the drawer sides join the front with half-blind dovetails, and the back with through dovetails. I like to cut

my drawer parts to the same size as the drawer opening.

This eliminates any chance of undersizing, and allows me to trim the drawer box for ϐ Ǥ I use for making half-blind dovetails is explained in the Joinery Class that begins on

p. 62. The through dovetail joints are less demanding (and less visible, too–since they’re at the back of the drawer).

To make these joints, I use a combination of hand and power Ǥ ǯ have a scrollsaw, remove waste between tails with a coping saw.

ƌĂǁĞƌ ĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ ĚĞƚĂŝůƐ ŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶƐ ĂƌĞ ďĂƐĞĚ ŽŶ Ă ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ŽƉĞŶŝŶŐ ϯϯШ4ΗŚ п ϭϳ1Ш4"w

SIDE 1 Ш2 п ϯϯШ4 п ϭϴ1Ш4"

&ZKEd Шϴ п ϯϯШ4 п ϭϳ1Ш4"

ϳ

dĂŝůƐ ĮƌƐƚ͘ / ůĂLJ ŽƵƚ ƚŚĞ ŚĂůĨͲďůŝŶĚ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝůƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƐŝĚĞƐ ĮƌƐƚ͘ dŚĞŶ / ůŽĐĂƚĞ ƚŚĞ ŐƌŽŽǀĞ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ũƵƐƚ ŝŶƐŝĚĞ ƚŚĞ ƐŝĚĞ͛Ɛ ďŽƩŽŵ ƚĂŝů͘ dŚĞ ďĂĐŬ ĚŽĞƐŶ͛ƚ ƌĞƋƵŝƌĞ Ă ŐƌŽŽǀĞ͘

< 1 Ш2 п ϭϳ п ϭϳ1Ш4"

, >&Ͳ >/E Ks d />^ KddKD

d,ZKh', Ks d />^

dĂŝůƐ KŶ ƚŚĞ dĂďůĞƐĂǁ͕ dŚĞŶ Ƶƚ ƚŚĞ WŝŶƐ ďLJ ,ĂŶĚ DLJ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝůŝŶŐ ƐůĞĚ ƐůŝĚĞƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƚĂďůĞƐĂǁ͛Ɛ ŵŝƚĞƌ ŐƌŽŽǀĞƐ͘ dŚĞ ďůĂĚĞ ŝƐ ĂŶŐůĞĚ Ăƚ ϭϰΣ͘ ƐůŝĚŝŶŐ͕ ĂĚũƵƐƚĂďůĞ ƐƚŽƉ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƌĞĂƌ ĨĞŶĐĞ ŵĂŬĞƐ ƌĞƉĞĂƚ ĐƵƚƐ ĨŽŽůƉƌŽŽĨ͘

Match blade & bit angle. dŚĞ ďůĂĚĞ ŝƐ ƟůƚĞĚ ƚŽ ϭϰΣ͕ ŵĂƚĐŚŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĂŶŐůĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ŚĂůĨͲďůŝŶĚ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝůƐ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĐŽƌŶĞƌƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ͘

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Clear the pin space on the scrollsaw. ^ƚĂLJŝŶŐ ŝŶƐŝĚĞ ůĂLJŽƵƚ ůŝŶĞƐ͕ / ĐƵƚ ĂǁĂLJ ƚŚĞ ǁĂƐƚĞ ďĞƚǁĞĞŶ ƚĂŝůƐ͘ &ŽůůŽǁ ƵƉ ƚŚŝƐ ǁŽƌŬ ďLJ ƉĂƌŝŶŐ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ůŝŶĞ͘

Cut pins by hand. / ƵƐĞ ŵLJ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝů ƐĂǁ ƚŽ ĐƵƚ ĂůŽŶŐ ƚŚĞ ǁĂƐƚĞ ƐŝĚĞ ŽĨ ŵLJ ůĂLJŽƵƚ ůŝŶĞƐ͘ dŚĞŶ / ƌĞŵŽǀĞ ƚŚĞ ǁĂƐƚĞ ďĞƚǁĞĞŶ ƉŝŶƐ ƵƐŝŶŐ Ă ĐŽƉŝŶŐ ƐĂǁ͘ WĂƌŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ũŽŝŶƚƐ ƚŽ Įƚ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞƐ ƚŚĞ ďĂĐŬ ĐŽƌŶĞƌƐ͘

^ŚĂǀĞ ĨŽƌ Įƚ͘ ^ĐƌĞǁĞĚ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ƚŽƉ ŽĨ Ă ǁŽƌŬďĞŶĐŚ͕ Ă ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ ĐůĞĂƚƐ ƉƌŽǀŝĚĞƐ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚ ƐƵƉƉŽƌƚ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ƐŝĚĞƐ ĂƐ / ƉůĂŶĞ ĐŽƌŶĞƌ ũŽŝŶƚƐ ŇƵƐŚ͘

Tap together. ŌĞƌ ƚĞƐƚͲĮƫŶŐ ĂŶĚ ĮŶĞͲƚƵŶŝŶŐ Ăůů ƚŚĞ ũŽŝŶƚƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝůĞĚ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ĨƌĂŵĞ͕ ŝƚ͛Ɛ ƟŵĞ ƚŽ ĂƉƉůLJ ŐůƵĞ ĂŶĚ ĂƐƐĞŵďůĞ͘

ŽƩŽŵ ĚĞƚĂŝůƐ͘ dŚĞ ƐŽůŝĚ ƉŽƉůĂƌ ďŽƩŽŵ ƌĞƋƵŝƌĞƐ ƌĂŝƐĞĚ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĂŶĚ ƐŝĚĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ ƚŽ ƐůŝƉ ŝŶƚŽ ŐƌŽŽǀĞƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĂŶĚ ƐŝĚĞƐ͘ dŽ ŚŽůĚ ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ŝŶ ƉůĂĐĞ͕ / ĚƌŝǀĞ Ă ƐŝŶŐůĞ ĐƵƚ ŶĂŝů ŝŶ Ă ƐůŽƚ ĂůŽŶŐ ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ͛Ɛ ďĂĐŬ ĞĚŐĞ͖ ƚŚĞ ŶĂŝů ĞdžƚĞŶĚƐ ŝŶƚŽ ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ĞĚŐĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ďĂĐŬ͘

dƌŝŵŵŝŶŐ ĨŽƌ Įƚ͘ /Ĩ ŶĞĐĞƐƐĂƌLJ͕ ƚŚĞ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ĨƌĂŵĞ ĐĂŶ ŐĞƚ ƐŚĂǀĞĚ ĚŽǁŶ ŝŶ ƐŝnjĞ͘ ĞĨŽƌĞ ƚĂŬŝŶŐ ƚŚŝƐ ƐƚĞƉ͕ ŵĂŬĞ ƐƵƌĞ ƚŚĂƚ ƚŽƉ ĞĚŐĞƐ ŽĨ ƐŝĚĞƐ ĂŶĚ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĂƌĞ ƉůĂŶĞĚ ŇƵƐŚ͘

Go to ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂŌŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ ĨŽƌ ŵŽƌĞ ĚĞƚĂŝůƐ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞƐ ĨĞĂƚƵƌĞĚ ŝŶ ƚŚŝƐ ĂƌƟĐůĞ͕ ŝŶĐůƵĚŝŶŐ Ă ǀŝĚĞŽ ŽĨ ŚƌŝƐ ,ĞĚŐĞƐ ĚĞŵŽŶƐƚƌĂƟŶŐ ŚŝƐ ƚĂďůĞƐĂǁ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝůŝŶŐ ũŝŐ͘

April/May 2016

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April/May 2016

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Workbench Workmates dƌĂŶƐĨŽƌŵ ĂŶLJ ǁŽƌŬ ƐƵƌĨĂĐĞ ŝŶƚŽ ĂŶ ĂƉƉƌĞŶƟĐĞ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞƐĞ ŽīͲƚŚĞͲƐŚĞůĨ ƐŽůƵƟŽŶƐ

By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

O

ne of the ϐ

ǯ Ǥ ǡ

ǡ

Ǥ

ǡ ǡ ǡ Ǧ

ǯ Ǧ Ǥ 42

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ǡ

Ǥ ȋ ǡ ǯ ǤȌ ǯ ǡ

Ǥ

Ǧ

April/May 2016

Ǥ

Ǧ ǡ ǯ Ǧϐ ǡ

ǡ ǡ ǡ Ǥ

Klamp Trak

6" Automaxx Klamp

Klamp Plate

Kreg’s Trak & Klamps Klamp Block

Bench Dog 3" Automaxx Klamp

ĞƩĞƌ ƚŚĂŶ ĂŶ ĞdžƚƌĂ ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ ŚĂŶĚƐ͘ Kreg’s Klamp Trak and Automaxx Klamps work together to hold joints ŇĂƚ ĂŶĚ ŇƵƐŚ ĨŽƌ ĨĂƐƚ ĂŶĚ ĞĸĐŝĞŶƚ assemblies.

Kreg’s new clamping system may be the easiest way to turn a basic assembly table (or tablesaw extension table) into a multifunction work surface for sanding, routing, and of course, pocket-screw joinery. ǯ ϐ Ǧ mounted tracks and plates. The plates are mortised in place and offer a single anchor point. The tracks provide more positioning options for Automaxx Klamps and guide blocks. To inset the 0.695"-thick tracks, simply position them on adjacent sides of a piece of 3Τ4" MDF, as shown above.

For vise-like versatility, bolt a Klamp Vise to the edge of your bench, with an Automaxx Klamp in the slot, as shown below.

The only shortcoming with these clamps is that they’ll only mount on the proprietary tracks or plates. According to Kreg, the clamps were designed with 5Τ 16" heads because clamping pressure can deform lighter-gauge 1Τ4" T-tracks.

ǀĞƌƐĂƟůĞ ǀŝƐĞ ƐƵďƐƟƚƵƚĞ͘ Kreg’s Klamp Vise consists of a 10"-wide steel plate with a pair of 5Ш16" T-slots that accommodate an Automaxx Klamp. The clamp’s pressure withstands planing and sanding chores, but its 2" range requires closely-spaced dog ŚŽůĞƐ͘ WĂŝƌŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐůĂŵƉ ǁŝƚŚ ďĞŶĐŚ ĚŽŐƐ ĂŶĚ ŐƵŝĚĞ ďůŽĐŬƐ ŬĞĞƉƐ ƉĂƌƚƐ ĨƌŽŵ ƐŚŝŌŝŶŐ͘ Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert

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ŽƵďůĞͲ,ĞŝŐŚƚ ^ƚŽƉ

In-line clamps & stops WůĂŶŝŶŐ ^ƚŽƉ ĞŶĐŚ ŽŐ

Ϯ3Ш8ΗͲƚĂůů

11Ш16ΗͲƚĂůů

ШϯϮΗͲƚĂůů

9

/ŶͲůŝŶĞ ůŝŶĞͲƵƉ͘ ƐŝĚĞͲďLJͲƐŝĚĞ ĐŽŵƉĂƌŝƐŽŶ ƌĞǀĞĂůƐ ƐŽŵĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƐƚƌĞŶŐƚŚƐ ĂŶĚ ǁĞĂŬŶĞƐƐĞƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞƐĞ ĚŽŐ ŚŽůĞ ĐůĂŵƉƐ͘ tŚŝůĞ ƌŵŽƌ͛Ɛ ĨĞĂƚƵƌĞƐ ŵĂŬĞ ŝƚ Ă ƚĂůů ŽƌĚĞƌ͖ >ĞĞ sĂůůĞLJ͛Ɛ ďĞŶĐŚͲŚƵŐŐŝŶŐ ĞŶĐŚ ůĂĚĞ ŚĂƐ Ă ůŝŵŝƚĞĚ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ƌĂŶŐĞ͘ /Ŷ ƚĞƌŵƐ ŽĨ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ƌĂŶŐĞ ĂŶĚ ďĞŶĐŚ ŚĞŝŐŚƚ͕ ƚŚĞ tŽŶĚĞƌ WƵƉ ĮƚƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŵŝĚĚůĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƉĂĐŬ͘

Armor Dog Clamp &ŽƌĐĞͲ ĚũƵƐƚŵĞŶƚ ^ĐƌĞǁ ^ƚĞĞů WƵƐŚ ZŽĚ

^ƉůŝƚͲWĞŐ >ŽĐŬ EƵƚ

Even with good bench vises, you’ll often need an extra hand.

In-line clamps, partnered with single-post dogs or double-post stops can be positioned anywhere you can drill a 3Τ4"-dia. hole.

When choosing a set, consider the clamp’s range and height as well as its clamping pressure.

Armor’s sliding push rod design wins points for long reach and adjustable force, but the Ϯ3Ш8Η-tall body can interfere with planing and sanding. On the other extreme, Lee Valley’s Bench Blade is least likely get in the way, but the sliding jaw reaches just 1Τ4". Veritas’ Wonder Pups (and larger Wonder Dogs), offer a middle ground. The 5"-long threaded rod is slower to adjust than the Armor’s rod, but the pup’s post protrudes just 7Τ8" above the bench without the O-ring spacer.

sĞƌŝƚĂƐ tŽŶĚĞƌ WƵƉ

87°

^ǁŝǀĞů ,ĂŶĚůĞ

sĞƌŝƚĂƐ ĞŶĐŚ ůĂĚĞ 5° cant

44

Cam stops at 1 Ш8Η ĂŶĚ 1Ш4Η

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>ŽǁͲƉƌŽĮůĞ ƉĂŝƌŝŶŐ. With a few well-placed dog holes, stops can work with ůŝƩůĞ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ƉƌĞƐƐƵƌĞ͘ WƌŽũĞĐƟŶŐ ũƵƐƚ Ϭ͘ϮϮΗ ĂďŽǀĞ ƚŚĞ ďĞŶĐŚƚŽƉ͕ ƚŚĞƐĞ ƉůĂŶŝŶŐ ƐƚŽƉƐ ĂƌĞ ƉĂƌƟĐƵůĂƌůLJ ǁĞůů ƐƵŝƚĞĚ ĨŽƌ ƉůĂŶŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƐĐƌĂƉŝŶŐ ƚŚŝŶ ƉĂƌƚƐ͘

April/May 2016

Mallet-free hold-downs

sĞƌŝƚĂƐ &ĂƐƚͲ ĐƟŽŶ ;ΨϴϰͿ

Armor Auto-Pro ,ŽƌŝnjŽŶƚĂů ;ΨϯϴͿ

ϴΗ DĂdž͘

51Ш2" Max. 41Ш2"

41Ш2"

10"

71Ш2"

Hold-downs that hold their own. dŚĞ ƌŵŽƌ ĂŶĚ >ĞĞ sĂůůĞLJ ĚĞůŝǀĞƌ ŵŽƌĞ ƚŚĂŶ ĞŶŽƵŐŚ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ƉƌĞƐƐƵƌĞ ĨŽƌ ŚĂŶĚ ĂŶĚ ƉŽǁĞƌ ƚŽŽů ǁŽƌŬ͘ dŚĞ ŬĞLJ ƚŽ Ă ƐŽůŝĚ ŐƌŝƉ ŝƐ Ă ƚŚŝĐŬ ƚŽƉ͘ /Ĩ LJŽƵƌ bench is less than 11Ш2Η ƚŚŝĐŬ͕ ĞŝƚŚĞƌ ĂĚĚ Ă ůĂLJĞƌ ŽĨ D & Žƌ ĂƩĂĐŚ Ă ĚŽŐ ďƌĂĐŬĞƚ ;ƉŚŽƚŽ ďĞůŽǁͿ͘

Before the age of metal vises, woodworkers relied on holddowns for holding work to their benchtops or against the side skirts. Clamping doesn’t get much easier: drop the post into a hole, and then give the hook at tap. To release, they’d rap on the back. This clamp fell out of favor when modern reproductions lacked the proper hook to

hold work securely. Also, some of the cheaper copies would crack when tapped. ǡ ϐ hand-forged holdfasts, but the evolved versions shown here more than hold Ǥ ϐ ǫ Neither requires a mallet.

Despite outward appearances, the Armor AutoPro Horizontal and Veritas

Fast-Action hold-downs work in a similar manner: slide the post into a dog hole until the pad touches the work, and then throw the lever to cinch the clamp and wedge the post in place.

Lee Valley’s cam lever provided as much pressure control as Armor’s high-tech auto-adjust clamping mechanism.

The Armor Advantage Armor’s Auto-Adjust clamping mechanism may ďĞ ƌĞǀŽůƵƟŽŶĂƌLJ͕ ďƵƚ / ƚŚŝŶŬ ƚŚĞ ďĞƐƚ ƚŚŝŶŐ ĂďŽƵƚ Armor’s system is how easy it is to transform a ƐŝŵƉůĞ ƐůĂď ŝŶƚŽ Ă ǁŽƌŬďĞŶĐŚ͘ ƌŝůů Ă ĨĞǁ ƌŽǁƐ of 3Ш4ΗͲĚŝĂ͘ ŚŽůĞƐ ĂŶĚ LJŽƵ͛ƌĞ ƐĞƚ͘ KƉƟŽŶĂůůLJ͕ LJŽƵ ĐĂŶ ĂƩĂĐŚ Ă ĚŽŐ ďƌĂĐŬĞƚ ;ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ ϰΗ ĂŶĚ ϭϮΗ ůĞŶŐƚŚƐͿ ĂŶĚ ƉĂŝƌ ŝƚ ǁŝƚŚ ĐůĂŵƉƐ ƚŽ ŵĂŬĞ Ă ĚĞĐĞŶƚ͕ ůŝŐŚƚǁĞŝŐŚƚ ǀŝƐĞ͘ tŚŝůĞ >ĞĞ sĂůůĞLJ͛Ɛ ůŽǁͲ ƉƌŽĮůĞ ƐƚŽƉƐ ĂƌĞ ďĞƩĞƌ ƐƵŝƚĞĚ ĨŽƌ ƉůĂŶŝŶŐ͕ ƌŵŽƌ͛Ɛ ƚĂůůĞƌ ƐƚŽƉƐ ƉƌŽǀŝĚĞ Ă ƐƵƉĞƌ ƐƚĂďůĞ ƉůĂƞŽƌŵ ĨŽƌ ƐƵƉƉŽƌƟŶŐ ǁŝĚĞ ďŽĂƌĚƐ͕ ƉĂŶĞůƐ͕ ĂŶĚ ĚŽŽƌƐ͘

ŽŐ ƌĂĐŬĞƚƐ ϭϰΗ ŽŐ &ĞŶĐĞ

The holes have it. A few rows of 3Ш4ΗͲĚŝĂ͘ ŚŽůĞƐ ŽīĞƌ ƚŽŶƐ ŽĨ ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶŝŶŐ ŽƉƟŽŶƐ ĨŽƌ ƌŵŽƌ͛Ɛ ĐůĂŵƉƐ ĂŶĚ ĨĞŶĐĞƐ͘ &Žƌ Ă ǀŝƐĞͲůŝŬĞ ŐƌŝƉ͕ ƉĂƌƚŶĞƌ ƚŚĞ ŚŽůĚͲĚŽǁŶƐ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ĚŽŐ ďƌĂĐŬĞƚ͘

April/May 2016

woodcraftmagazine.com

45

Browsing Giraffes Lamp Make a mechanical marvel with scrollsawn parts

By John Hutchinson

C

reativity comes from all sorts of inspiration. Lately, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve developed an addiction for making creatures to match wacky clip-on lampshades for my animated lamps. When I found a shade with palm fronds, I knew that I had to design a project featuring Â&#x2022;Â&#x2018;Â?Â&#x2021; Â&#x17D;Â&#x2018;Â?Â&#x2030;ÇŚÂ?Â&#x2021;Â&#x2026;Â?Â&#x2021;Â&#x2020; Â&#x160;Â&#x2021;Â&#x201D;Â&#x201E;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2018;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021;Ǥ Â&#x2019;Â&#x192;Â&#x2039;Â&#x201D; Â&#x2018;Â&#x2C6; Â&#x2030;Â&#x2039;Â&#x201D;Â&#x192;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2022; Ď?Â&#x2039;Â&#x2013;Â&#x2022; Â&#x2013;Â&#x160;Â&#x2021; Â&#x201E;Â&#x2039;Â&#x17D;Â&#x17D; Â?Â&#x2039;Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;Â&#x203A;Ǥ For me, the scrollsaw work is only a beginning of the creative process. What I enjoy most is giving life to my projects via simple cams, gears, and other shop-made mechanisms. In this instance, a cam and pair of linkages convert a small electric motorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rotational movement into the gentle side-to-side sway of the animalsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; heads and necks.

Scrollsawing the parts isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t rocket science. (For convenience, Ď?Â&#x2039;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2022; Â&#x2018;Â&#x2C6; Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2014;Â&#x17D;Â&#x17D;ÇŚÂ&#x2022;Â&#x2039;Â&#x153;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2020; Â&#x17D;Â&#x192;Â?Â&#x2022; Â&#x192;Â?Â&#x2020; Â&#x192; Â&#x2014;Â&#x2013; Â&#x2039;Â&#x2022;Â&#x2013; Â&#x2026;Â&#x192;Â? Â&#x201E;Â&#x2021; Â&#x2020;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2122;Â?Â&#x17D;Â&#x2018;Â&#x192;Â&#x2020;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2020; Â&#x2C6;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2018;Â? woodcraftmagazine.com.) Assembling the parts so that they work like they should requires some mechanical ingenuity. For this reason, these pages focus on what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to do after the parts have been cut.

46

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April/May 2016

By switching a few parts you can go from the jungle to the Jurassic Period. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĆ?Ĺ˝ ÄŽĹśÄ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;ĆŠÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;ĹśĆ? ĨŽĆ&#x152; this brontosaurus-themed Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x;ŽŜ ŽŜ ŽƾĆ&#x152; Ç Ä&#x17E;Ä?Ć?Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Í&#x2DC;

ĂŵƐ ƐƉŝŶ ǁŚŝůĞ ŐŝƌĂīĞƐ ŐƌŝŶ Don’t let the mechanism throw you…if you can saw to a line, you can tame this project. Baltic birch plywood is the best material to use for this project’s wooden parts.

, E E < ^^ D >z

How it Works With each rotation of the motor’s drive shaft, the outer edges of eccentric cams rise and fall. The linkages ride on top of the cams, converting the cams’ circular movement into the side-to-side sway of the animals’ heads.

Basic ŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ Sequence 1 Download the fullƐŝnjĞ ƉĂƩĞƌŶƐ ĂŶĚ ŐůƵĞ them to plywood.

2 Ƶƚ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚƐ ŽŶ Ă ƐĐƌŽůůƐĂǁ ĂŶĚ ƐĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ ƐŵŽŽƚŚ͘ 3 Make the base.

4 WĂŝŶƚ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚƐ ĂŶĚ ƐŬŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŐŝƌĂīĞƐ ĂŶĚ ďĂĐŬĚƌŽƉ͘ 5 Machine the cams ĂŶĚ ůŝŶŬĂŐĞƐ ĂŶĚ assemble the lamp.

'ůƵĞ ďŽƚŚ discs to axle. >/E< ' ^^ D >z 'ůƵĞ ŶĞĐŬ to axle.

CAM ^^ D >z 'ůƵĞ ďƵƐŚŝŶŐ ƚŽ ŵŽƚŽƌ ĚƌŝǀĞƐŚĂŌ͘

ϰ͘ϭϴt > >/',d h>

Ш8" plywood

3

E > Z > DW ^K < d

WĂŝŶƚ ĐĂŶ ŽǀĞƌůĂƉ faces, but keep ƐŽŵĞ ƉĂƚĐŚĞƐ ďĂƌĞ ǁŽŽĚ ƚŽ ĞŶƐƵƌĞ ŐŽŽĚ ŐůƵĞͲƵƉ͛Ɛ͘

dZhE< Ш4 /͘ ͘ × 47Ш8" PVC

Ш8" plywood

1

3

CARDBOARD ^W Z

11Ш16" hole <'ZKhE 3 Ш8 × 33Ш4 × ϵ1Ш2"

Z Z y> Z 3 Ш8 × 13Ш4 × 31Ш2"

'>h /^ 1 Ш8 × 1" dia.

Ez>KE h^,/E'

Ш4" hole

1

y> 1Ш8-dia. × 21Ш4" ĂůƵŵŝŶƵŵ ƌŽĚ

dKW 3 Ш8 × 6 × 127Ш16"

dZ ^ 3 Ш8" plywood

Ш4" plywood

1

&ZKEd y> Z 3 Ш8 × 41Ш4 × 31Ш2"

Project parts dŚĞ ƉĂƉĞƌ ŚŝĚĞ͕ ŵŽƚŽƌ͕ ĂŶĚ ŚĂƌĚǁĂƌĞ needed to make ƚŚŝƐ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ ĂƌĞ ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ŝŶ Ŭŝƚ ĨŽƌŵ͘ ^ĞĞ ƚŚĞ ƵLJĞƌ͛Ɛ 'ƵŝĚĞ ŽŶ Ɖ͘ ϲϳ͘

tĞŝŐŚƚ ůŝŶŬĂŐĞ ĂƐƐĞŵďůŝĞƐ ǁŝƚŚ ϭΗ ĨĞŶĚĞƌ ǁĂƐŚĞƌƐ͘

< Ш4 × 45Ш8 × 823Ш32"

1

Ш4Η >K < t ^, Z

1

>K </E' 1 Ш2 × 1Ш2 × 45Ш8" ^/ 3 Ш8 × 45Ш8 × 5"

DKd, Z K Z 1 Ш4 × 43Ш8 × 83Ш4"

KƉĞŶŝŶŐ ƉŚŽƚŽ͗ :ŝŵ KƐďŽƌŶ͖ WƌŽũĞĐƚ ƉŚŽƚŽƐ͗ >ĂƌƌLJ ,ĂŵĞůͲ>ĂŵďĞƌƚ͖ /ůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶƐ͗ dƌĞǀŽƌ :ŽŚŶƐƚŽŶ

>/E< ' ^^ D >z ;^ĞĞ ƉĂŐĞ ϱϬ͘Ϳ

D ^^ D >z ;^ĞĞ ƉĂŐĞ ϰϵ͘Ϳ

April/May 2016

D ,/E ^ Z t Ш4ͲϮϬ п ϭ1Ш4"

1

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ

47

Skinning the beasts Rather than attempting to paint the giraffe’s spots, I skinned the beasts using animal-print paper purchased from a stationary store. (A sheet of giraffe hide is included in the parts kit. See the Buyer’s Guide on p. 67.)

For the backdrop, I searched online for a “jungle image” and printed a pattern out on high Ǥ ϐ technique I used is called

decoupage. This sounds fancy, but I’ve found this method is an ϐ detail and color that I couldn’t Ǥ Simply paint the edges and visible faces, and then apply a paper facing to the body parts and backdrop.

adhesive by mixing equal Ǥ

ȋ Ǧ

Ǥ

adhesive, the patterns rub off ǤȌ

to dry, I made my base from ǡ ǡ Ǥ ǡ Ǥ

WĂŝŶƚ ĂŶĚ ƐƟĐŬ͘ ŌĞƌ ƉĂŝŶƟŶŐ ƚŚĞ ŽƵƚĞƌ ĞĚŐĞƐ͕ ďƌƵƐŚ the watered down ŐůƵĞ ŽŶƚŽ ƚŚĞ ďĂƌĞ ǁŽŽĚ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ůĂLJ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƉĞƌ skin. Burnishing ƚŚĞ ƉĂƉĞƌ ŽŶƚŽ the wood with Ă ƉĂƉĞƌ ƚŽǁĞů ǁŽƌŬƐ ŽƵƚ ďƵďďůĞƐ and ensures a good bond.

Trim the skin. tŚĞŶ ĐƵƫŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƉĞƌ ŇƵƐŚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚƐ͕ / ƉƌĞĨĞƌ Ă ŵŝŶŝ ďŽdž ŬŶŝĨĞ͘ &Žƌ Ă ĐůŽƐĞ ƐŚĂǀĞ͕ ĞdžƚĞŶĚ ƚŚĞ ďůĂĚĞ ƐŽ ƚŚĂƚ ƚŚĞ ďůĂĚĞͶŶŽƚ ƚŚĞ ŬŶŝĨĞͶƌĞŐŝƐƚĞƌƐ ĂŐĂŝŶƐƚ ƚŚĞ ĞĚŐĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚ͘ tŚĞŶ ƚƌŝŵŵŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐŽƌŶĞƌƐ͕ / ĮŶĚ ƚŚĂƚ ŵĂŬŝŶŐ ƐŵĂůůĞƌ ƚĂŶŐĞŶƟĂů ĐƵƚƐ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ĞĂƐŝĞƌ ƚŚĂŶ ĨŽůůŽǁŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐƵƌǀĞ͘

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Use tape to tame the paint. WĂŝŶƟŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚƐ ďĞĨŽƌĞ ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ ĂŶĚ ƚĂƉŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ ŬĞĞƉƐ ƉĂŝŶƚ ĨƌŽŵ ŐĞƫŶŐ ǁŚĞƌĞ ŝƚ ƐŚŽƵůĚŶ͛ƚ͘ >ĞĂǀĞ ƚŚĞ ŝŶƚĞƌŝŽƌ ĨĂĐĞƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚƐ ďĂƌĞ ƚŽ ĞŶƐƵƌĞ Ă ŐŽŽĚ ŐůƵĞ ďŽŶĚ͘

Making & installing the cams The double-cam mechanism is where the mechanical magic starts. To ensure the smoothest possible operation, this part must be machined precisely.

My sanding and assembly process corrects any discrepancies that might sneak in from an errant saw cut and ensures a perfect glue-up. After assembling the cam, as shown below, drill a hole into the center of the motherboard, and then glue the gaskets and motor to the back face, as shown in ϐ Ǥ ǡ the double cam to the spacer with a 1Τ4-20 machine screw and a lock washer.

Ш32" Hole

17

MOTHERBOARD MOTOR FENDER WASHER Ш4" 3

Glue motor and gaskets to motherboard.

Use 1Ш8" holes to assemble cam.

INNER CAM 5 Ш32" plywood

Ш4" hole

1

THREADED SPACER Ш2" O.D. × 1Ш2"

1

CAM SPACER Ш8" plywood

1

MACHINE SCREW Ш4-20 x 11Ш4"

1

Ш4" LOCK WASHER

1

Sawn and sanded cams. Laminate 1Ш8" and 1Ш32" plywood to create Ш32" stock for the inner cam discs. Next, drill all the holes and saw the circles just outside of the lines. To perfect the circles, spin-sand them about the center hole using your drill press and a 1Ш4" bolt.

5

Glue bushing to ŵŽƚŽƌ ĚƌŝǀĞƐŚĂŌ͘

OUTER CAMS Ш8" plywood

1

WŝŶŶĞĚ ƚŽ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƟŽŶ͘ Assemble the ĐĂŵ ĂƐƐĞŵďůLJ ĂƐ ƐŚŽǁŶ͕ ŽīƐĞƫŶŐ ƚŚĞ two discs 180° to the center spacer. Use ϭϬĚ ďƌŝŐŚƚ ĮŶŝƐŚ ŶĂŝůƐ ĂƐ ĂůŝŐŶŵĞŶƚ ƉŝŶƐ through the 1Ш8Η ƌĞŐŝƐƚƌĂƟŽŶ ŚŽůĞƐ͘ bright nail is .005" smaller than the 1Ш8" hole, ensuring perfect part alignment.

April/May 2016

woodcraftmagazine.com

49

Making & installing the linkages The two linkages are nothing more than three wooden discs joined together by a pair of aluminum rods, but as with the cams, precision is key.

Use my saw-and-sand technique to “turn” your discs to 1". Next, use the jigs shown below to complete the assembly.

(Both jigs are included with the full-sized patterns.) Permanently ϐ epoxy or cyanoacrylate (CA) glue.

LINKAGE DISC

Axle pivots in bushing.

GLUE DISC NYLON BUSHING

Glue bead to end of axle.

REAR AXLE BRACE WŽƐŝƟŽŶ ůŝŶŬĂŐĞ assembly so that lower rod rides in cam, then glue both discs to axle.

Ш4" hole

1

AXLE

FRONT AXLE BRACE

Bushing guided bit. Drill the holes in the edges of the circular elements using a drilling jig. The nylon bushing ensures that the hole is perfectly centered and perpendicular to the disc.

Ш64" bushing

9

Ш64" bit

9

Ш8" rod

1

Disc drilling jig

Linkage assembly jig

Ƶƚ ƚŚĞ ƌŽĚƐ ƚŽ Įƚ͘ Drilling a few holes transforms a scrap of wood into a mini miter box that’s perfect for trimming the rods to size. The assembly jig ensures that the ĚŝƐĐƐ ĂƌĞ ĂƩĂĐŚĞĚ ǁŝƚŚŽƵƚ ĂŶLJ ƚǁŝƐƚ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĂƚ ƚŚĞ ůŝŶŬĂŐĞƐ ĂƌĞ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚůLJ ƐLJŵŵĞƚƌŝĐĂů͘

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Sight this gap.

Mind the gap. Sandwiching a 1"-wide ƐƉĂĐĞƌ ďĞƚǁĞĞŶ ƚŚĞ ĂdžůĞ ƐƵƉƉŽƌƚƐ ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶƐ them parallel with the top’s long edges.

To align the axle holes, insert a long 1Ш8" ƌŽĚ ĂƐ ƐŚŽǁŶ ĂŶĚ ƐŚŝŌ ƚŚĞ ƐƵƉƉŽƌƚƐ ƐŽ that the bar is parallel with the end.

Final assembly & wiring Attach the axle supports to the top of the base, top it off with ǡ ǯ ϐ assembly. First, glue the lamp’s base to the top of the box and Ǥ Ǧϐ head and neck assemblies on their axles, and give the cam a few test turns. Once you are certain that the heads sway like they should, adjust the cam and glue the neck to the axle, as shown at right. Next, add the bodies, and then connect the motor and socket wires to a lamp cord, as shown below.

Finally, screw the back in place.

90°

Set the heads. Using a right-angle block ĂƐ Ă ŐĂƵŐĞ͕ ĂƩĂĐŚ ƚŚĞ ŶĞĐŬ ƚŽ ŝƚƐ ĂdžůĞ at the corresponding cam’s low point.

ZŽƚĂƚĞ ƚŚĞ ĐĂŵ ϭϴϬΣ͕ ĂŶĚ ĂƩĂĐŚ ƚŚĞ ŽƚŚĞƌ ŚĞĂĚ ƚŽ ŝƚƐ ĂdžůĞ͕ ĂƐ ƐŚŽǁŶ͘

'ŝǀĞ ͛Ğŵ Ă ůŝŌ͘ Set shims under the feet to minimize the gap where the body meets the neck before gluing it in place with a few drops of CA glue. The ďŽĚLJ ŝƐ ƐŝnjĞĚ ƚŽ ƉƌŽǀŝĚĞ Ă ůŝƩůĞ ǁŝŐŐůĞ ƌŽŽŵ͘ /Ĩ ŶĞĐĞƐƐĂƌLJ͕ LJŽƵ ĐĂŶ ƵƐĞ 1Ш4" ǁĂƐŚĞƌƐ ĂƐ ƐƉĂĐĞƌƐ ƚŽ ƐŚŝŵ ƚŚĞ ďŽĚLJ ŽƵƚ ƐŽ ƚŚĂƚ ŝƚ͛Ɛ ŇƵƐŚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ŶĞĐŬ͘

Wiring it up. Join the motor and lamp socket wires to the lamp cord with wire nuts and electrical tape.

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Curvy Wall Shelf A skill-building project to display treasured mementos

By Paul Anthony

W

hen I teach woodworking classes that focus on basic woodworking skills, I try to pick projects that require a variety of techniques and that develop both hand and power tool skills. Of ǡ ϐ is attractive and useful, without requiring a major investment in materials. This curvy wall shelf meets these requirements nicely. Its sides and rails involve a bit of curve-cutting with a bandsaw or jigsaw, followed up by ϐ Ǥ Cutting the joints teaches you how to ϐ using a shop-made guide that will be useful for lots of other projects Ǥ ϐ Ǧ the tongues is a great exercise in Ǧϐ ǡ ϐ the edges of the parts employs two different table-router Ǥ ϐ of the lesson, you’ll learn how to rout keyhole slots to hang the unit, again using a simple shop-made jig that will prove its worth in many other projects.

I made this particular shelf from cherry, but just about any wood will work. One suggestion: Consider making a pair of these, as the work on the second one will go quickly having set up operations for ϐ Ǥ ǯ ϐ Ǥ

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WĂƩĞƌŶƐ ĚĞĮŶĞ ĐƵƌǀĞĚ ĐƵƚƐ ĂŶĚ ũŽŝŶĞƌLJ ůĂLJŽƵƚ When milling the stock for the parts, make some extra 1Τ2"-thick scrap for tool setups. Then use the gridded patterns to make plywood or cardboard patterns to lay out the curved parts. To save time and guarantee identically shaped sides, stick your side boards together Ǧ ǡ ϐ pieces at the same time with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Stay just to the waste side of the line, and save the offcuts, which will come in handy later.

^ŝĚĞ ƉĂƩĞƌŶ ϭ ^ƋƵĂƌĞ с ϭΗ

DĂũŽƌ ŝŵĞŶƐŝŽŶƐ ĂŶĚ :ŽŝŶĞƌLJ ƚŽŶŐƵĞ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ĞŶĚ ŽĨ ĞĂĐŚ ƐŚĞůĨ ƐůŝƉƐ ŝŶƚŽ Ă ĚĂĚŽ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƐŝĚĞ͘ ĂĐŚ ƌĂŝů ĞŶĚ ŶĞƐƚƐ ŝŶ Ă ƌĂďďĞƚ͘ dKW Z /> 3 Ш8 п Ϯ1ШϮ × 171ШϮΗ

dKW ^, >& 1 ШϮ п Ϯ3Ш4 × 171ШϮΗ

ĂĚŽ Ш4 × 3Ш8 п Ϯ5Ш8Η

1

D/ > ^, >& 1 ШϮ × 33Ш8 × 171ШϮΗ 195Ш8Η KddKD ^, >& 1 ШϮ × 51ШϮ × 171ШϮΗ

ĂĚŽ 1 Ш4 × 3Ш8 × 31Ш4Η

ϭϮ1ШϮΗ

KddKD Z /> Ш8 п Ϯ1ШϮ × 171ШϮΗ

3

ĂĚŽ 1 Ш4 × 3Ш8 × 53Ш8Η

^/ 5 Ш8 × 63Ш8 п ϮϰΗ

51Ш4Η

ZĂŝů ŚĂůĨͲƉĂƩĞƌŶ

ШϮΗ

1

&Ăŝƌ ŝĚĞŶƟĐĂů ƚǁŝŶƐ͘ tŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ƚǁŽ ƐŝĚĞƐ ũŽŝŶĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ ĚŽƵďůĞͲĨĂĐĞĚ ƚĂƉĞ͕ ƵƐĞ ƐƉŽŬĞƐŚĂǀĞƐ ĂŶĚͬŽƌ ŚĂůĨͲƌŽƵŶĚ ŵŝůů ĮůĞƐ ƚŽ ĨĂŝƌ ƚŚĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ͕ ǁŚŝĐŚ ǁŝůů ĞĸĐŝĞŶƚůLJ ĐƌĞĂƚĞ ŝĚĞŶƟĐĂů ƉŝĞĐĞƐ͘ &ŽůůŽǁ ƵƉ ďLJ ƐĂŶĚŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ ϮϮϬ Őƌŝƚ͘ &ŽůůŽǁ ƚŚĞ ƐĂŵĞ ƉƌŽĐĞĚƵƌĞ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ƌĂŝůƐ͘ WŚŽƚŽƐ͗ WĂƵů ŶƚŚŽŶLJ͖ /ůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶƐ͗ ĂŶ dŚŽƌŶƚŽŶ

&ƵůůͲƐŝnjĞĚ ƉĂƩĞƌŶ ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ Ăƚ tŽŽĚĐƌĂŌDĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ.

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^ŝĚĞƐ ŐĞƚ ƐƚŽƉƉĞĚ ĚĂĚŽĞƐ ĨŽƌ ƐŚĞůǀĞƐ Mark out the dadoes on each side using a sharp pencil, and darken the end of each dado layout for good stopping Ǥ Ǧ ϐ ϐ Ǥ ȋ ͷͺǤȌ

dͲƐƋƵĂƌĞ ŶŽƚĐŚ

T-square does the trick. dͲƐƋƵĂƌĞ guide with ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ŇĂŶŐĞƐ ŵĂŬĞƐ ƌŽƵƟŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĚĂĚŽĞƐ Ă ƐŶĂƉ͘ dŽ ƐĞƚ ƵƉ ƚŚĞ ĐƵƚ͕ ƐŝŵƉůLJ ĂůŝŐŶ ƚŚĞ ŶŽƚĐŚ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ũŝŐ͛Ɛ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ ǁŝƚŚ LJŽƵƌ ĐƵƚůŝŶĞƐ ;ŝŶƐĞƚͿ͘

A Mighty Nice Router Light >ŝŐŚƟŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƚŚƌŽĂƚ ŽĨ ŵŽƐƚ ƌŽƵƚĞƌƐ ĐĂŶ ďĞ Ă ĐŚĂůůĞŶŐĞ͕ ďƵƚ / ĮŶĂůůLJ found the ŝĚĞĂů ĂĚĚͲŽŶ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ũŽď͘ dŚĞ ŇĞdžŝďůĞ ŐŽŽƐĞŶĞĐŬ ŽŶ ƚŚŝƐ ďƌŝŐŚƚ > ůŝŐŚƚ ;ǁŚŽƐĞ ďŽĚLJ ĂƩĂĐŚĞƐ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ƌŽƵƚĞƌ ǁŝƚŚ ĚŽƵďůĞͲ ĨĂĐĞĚ ƚĂƉĞͿ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ĚŝƌĞĐƚĞĚ ũƵƐƚ ǁŚĞƌĞ LJŽƵ ŶĞĞĚ ŝƚ͘ /ƚ͛Ɛ ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚ amazon.com. ;^ĞĂƌĐŚ ͞DŝŐŚƚLJ ƌŝŐŚƚ ϲϰϲϬϮ > ^ĞǁŝŶŐ DĂĐŚŝŶĞ >ŝŐŚƚ͘͟Ϳ

^Ăǁ ƚŚĞ ƚŽŶŐƵĞƐ ĐůŽƐĞ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ĮŶĞͲƚƵŶĞ ƚŚĞ Įƚ ďLJ ŚĂŶĚ I saw the tongues using a dado head on my tablesaw. This approach is easy to set up and ensures perfectly aligned joint shoulders. The only drawback is that any inconsistency in stock thickness translates into inconsistency in tongue thickness. Therefore, it’s best to saw the ǡ ϐ Ǥ ϐ of the tongue to match the round end of the mortise. (Don’t worry about a perfect match here.)

Make sure to mark the pieces for proper orientation later.

First tongue cut. tŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ĚĂĚŽ ŚĞĂĚ ƉĂƌƟĂůůLJ ďƵƌŝĞĚ ƵŶĚĞƌ Ă ƐĂĐƌŝĮĐŝĂů ĨĞŶĐĞ͕ ĨĞĞĚ ĞĂĐŚ ƐŚĞůĨ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ƚŚĞ ďůĂĚĞ͕ ƐĂǁŝŶŐ ŽŶĞ ĨĂĐĞ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ƚŚĞ ŽƚŚĞƌ͘

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Second tongue cut. tŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ďůĂĚĞ ŚĞŝŐŚƚ ƵŶĐŚĂŶŐĞĚ͕ ĂŶĚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ƐŚĞůĨ ƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐ ŽŶ ŝƚƐ ĨƌŽŶƚ ĞĚŐĞ͕ ĨĞĞĚ ĞĂĐŚ ĞŶĚ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ƚŚĞ ďůĂĚĞ ƚŽ ĐƌĞĂƚĞ Ă ƐŚŽƵůĚĞƌ Ăƚ ƚŚĞ ĨƌŽŶƚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƐŚĞůĨ͘

Fine-tune the thickness. dĞƐƚ ƚŚĞ Įƚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ũŽŝŶƚ ĂŶĚ͕ ŝĨ ŶĞĐĞƐƐĂƌLJ͕ ƚƌŝŵ ƚŚĞ ƚŽŶŐƵĞ ƚŽ ĂĐŚŝĞǀĞ Ă ƐŶƵŐ Įƚ ŝŶ ŝƚƐ ĚĂĚŽ͘ ƐŚŽƵůĚĞƌ ƉůĂŶĞ ŝƐ ƚŚĞ ďĞƐƚ ƚŽŽů ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ũŽď͕ ďƵƚ Ă ĐĂƌĞĨƵůůLJ ǁŝĞůĚĞĚ ĐŚŝƐĞů ǁŝůů ĂůƐŽ ǁŽƌŬ͘ ŶŽƚŚĞƌ ŽƉƟŽŶ͗ ĮŶĞ ƐĂŶĚƉĂƉĞƌ ǁƌĂƉƉĞĚ ĂƌŽƵŶĚ Ă ŚĂƌĚǁŽŽĚ ďůŽĐŬ͘

Lay out & rout the rail rabbets Dry-assemble the sides to the shelves, and hold the end of each rail in its position as you knife into the side to mark out the location of the end of each rail rabbet. Now it’s time to rout rabbets in the sides to hold the two rails. To lay out the rabbets, dry-assemble sides and shelves, and hold each rail in place as you knife the layout onto the side.

Trap that rabbet. hƐĞ ŽīĐƵƚƐ ĨƌŽŵ the sides to set up Ă ƐƚŽƉ ĨŽƌ ƌŽƵƟŶŐ the rail rabbets using a 3Ш8" rabbet bit set for a 3Ш8"deep cut. A deep knife cut prevents exit tearout.

Square the end. Use a chisel to pare the rabbet wall straight at the dadoes, and square at the end of the ũŽŝŶƚ ĨŽƌ Ă ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚ Įƚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ƌĂŝů͘

hƐĞ Ă ƌŽƵƚĞƌ ƚĂďůĞ ƚŽ ƉƌŽĮůĞ ƚŚĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ The front edges of the sides and shelves (but not the rails) get rounded over with a 1Τ4"-radius round-over bit. Both operations are best done on a router table set up and equipped as shown.

Starter pin

Steering by hand. For ease and convenience, use a router table to shape the 1Ш4"-radius round-over on the front edges of the sides. For best control at the beginning of a cut, lever the work into the bit against a starter pin.

Bullnosing with a fence. To rout the 1Ш4"-radius bullnose on the front edges of the shelves, set up a fence tangent to the round-over bit bearing. Feed with one shelf face down, then the other.

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^ĂŶĚ Θ ĂƐƐĞŵďůĞ ƚŽ ǁƌĂƉ ƵƉ ƚŚĞ ĐŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ Sand all of the parts through 220 grit. In the process, ease the curved edges of the rails, but take care not to round over any of the straight ǡ ϐ of the curves. The clamp-up of the unit is a 2-step procedure, as shown in the photos.

^ŚĞůǀĞƐ ĮƌƐƚ͘ /Ŷ ƉƌĞƉĂƌĂƟŽŶ ĨŽƌ ŐůƵŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƐŝĚĞƐ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ shelves, gather your clamps, glue, and brush. Then do a complete dry run to pre-set your clamps and rehearse your ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ƉƌŽĐĞĚƵƌĞƐ͘ ŌĞƌ ŐůƵŝŶŐ ƵƉ͕ / ůĞƚ ĂŶLJ ƐƋƵĞĞnjĞͲŽƵƚ ƉĂƌƟĂůůLJ ĐƵƌĞ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ƉĂƌĞ ŝƚ ĂǁĂLJ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ǀĞƌLJ ƐŚĂƌƉ ĐŚŝƐĞů͘

dŚĞŶ ƚŚĞ ƌĂŝůƐ͘ To provide clamp access, place the assembly ŽŶ ƌŝƐĞƌƐ͘ dŽ ĂůůŽǁ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ůŽǁĞƌ ƌĂŝů͕ ĮƌƐƚ ĐůĂŵƉ Ă couple of small blocks to the inside faces of the sides below ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ƐŚĞůĨ͘ ǀĞƌLJ ƚŚŝŶ ďĞĂĚ ŽĨ ŐůƵĞ ŽŶ Ăůů ĐŽŶƚĂĐƚ ƐƵƌĨĂĐĞƐ ǁŝůů ĚŽ ƚŚĞ ũŽď ĮŶĞ ĂŶĚ ĞůŝŵŝŶĂƚĞ ƐƋƵĞĞnjĞͲŽƵƚ͘

ZŽƵƚ ŬĞLJŚŽůĞ ŚĂŶŐĞƌ ƐůŽƚƐ͕ ĂŶĚ ĂƉƉůLJ Ă ĮŶŝƐŚ All that’s left is to provide a way to hang the unit. Rather than screwing through the rails into the wall, I rout keyhole slots to accept panhead screws, making for a mar-free installation.

After cutting the slots, I do a quick cleanup sanding with 220grit paper, and then apply several coats of wiping varnish.

<ĞLJŚŽůĞ ^ůŽƚ ZŽƵƟŶŐ :ŝŐ This simple jig is designed to corral the base of a router ĨŽƌ ĐƵƫŶŐ Ă 3Ш8"long keyhole slot.

The base provides a large clamping area ĨŽƌ ĂƩĂĐŚŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ jig to all sorts of wall-hung units.

Router subbase width

Rear fence

Router subbase width plus 3Ш8" Front fence

56

Clamp 1Ш4" base of jig to workpiece.

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Rout keyhole slot in base to align on layout marks.

Register router base against front fence, plunge here, and then push router against rear fence.

ƩĞŶĚ ƚŽ Ă ŐŽŽĚ ŚĂŶŐŝŶŐ͘ ŌĞƌ ŵĂƌŬŝŶŐ ŽƵƚ ĐƌŽƐƐŚĂŝƌƐ Ăƚ ƚŚĞ ŬĞLJŚŽůĞ ƐůŽƚ ůŽĐĂƟŽŶƐ͕ ĐůĂŵƉ a simple jig to the unit to corral the router. Plunge the bit, slide the ƚŽŽů͕ ƚŚĞŶ ƌĞƚƵƌŶ ƚŽ LJŽƵƌ ƐƚĂƌƟŶŐ ƉŽŝŶƚ ďĞĨŽƌĞ ƌĞƚƌĂĐƟŶŐ ƚŚĞ ďŝƚ͘

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T-Square Router Guide ůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ŇĂŶŐĞƐ ŵĂŬĞ Ăůů ƚŚĞ ĚŝīĞƌĞŶĐĞ

By Paul Anthony

R

outing dadoes across panels requires some kind of straightedge guide for the router.

A T-square guide is a great tool for the job because registering the crossbar against the edge of the workpiece automatically positions the fence at 90° to the edge. But a typical T-square guide can be

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ϐ Ǥ faced with routing shelf dadoes in some relatively small, curved shelf sides (see page 52), I decided to design a guide that would be quicker and easier to use. The ǫ ϐ Ǥ

to the top surface of the crossbar, these cantilevered strips enable

April/May 2016

me to clamp the jig to the work, and the work to the bench at the same time. I can eliminate the hassle of clamping the workpiece to the bench and then clamping the jig to the workpiece. The ϐ that I seldom use my standard T-square guides anymore.

^ŝnjĞ LJŽƵƌ ũŝŐ ƚŽ Įƚ ƚŚĞ ũŽď The dimensions shown here will create a jig sized for general purpose work, but feel free to alter the size. Note that dedicating a T-square to a particular router-and-bit combination allows quick jig positioning by simply aligning the router bit notch in the crossbar with your cutline. ůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ŇĂŶŐĞ ƐĞĐƵƌĞƐ ƚŚĞ ũŝŐ ĂŶĚ ǁŽƌŬƉŝĞĐĞ Ăƚ ƚŚĞ ƐĂŵĞ ƟŵĞ͘ & E Ш2 × 21Ш2 × 15"

> DW/E' &> E' 1 Ш4 × 2 × 3"

3 Ш4ΗͲĚŝĂŵĞƚĞƌ ǀŝĞǁŝŶŐ ƉŽƌƚ ĂůůŽǁƐ ƐŝŐŚƟŶŐ ĨŽƌ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌͬǁŽƌŬƉŝĞĐĞ ĐŽŶƚĂĐƚ͘

ZŽƵƚĞƌ ďĂƐĞ ǁŝĚƚŚ

1

> DW/E' &> E' 1 Ш4 × 103Ш4 × 2"

ZK^^ Z 1 Ш2 × 21Ш2 × 24" ůŝŐŶ ƌĞŐŝƐƚƌĂƟŽŶ ŶŽƚĐŚ ǁŝƚŚ ǁŽƌŬƉŝĞĐĞ ĐƵƚůŝŶĞ͘

13Ш4"

ƵƫŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ ďĂĐŬ ĂůůŽǁƐ ĐůĂŵƉ ƌĞĂĐŚ ǁŚŝůĞ ŵĂŝŶƚĂŝŶŝŶŐ ůĂƌŐĞ ĨĞŶĐĞͲƚŽͲĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ ĐŽŶƚĂĐƚ ĂƌĞĂ͘

ŽŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ EŽƚĞƐ ͻ hƐĞ ƐƚƌĂŝŐŚƚͲŐƌĂŝŶĞĚ͕ ƐƚĂďůĞ ŚĂƌĚǁŽŽĚ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ĨĞŶĐĞ ĂŶĚ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ͕ ŵŝůůŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚƐ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚůLJ ƐƚƌĂŝŐŚƚ ĂŶĚ ƐƋƵĂƌĞ͘ hƐĞ ƉůLJǁŽŽĚ Žƌ ŚĂƌĚďŽĂƌĚ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ŇĂŶŐĞƐ͘ ͻ ƩĂĐŚ ƚŚĞ ĨĞŶĐĞ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ ǁŝƚŚ ƐĐƌĞǁƐ ĂŶĚ ŐůƵĞ ĂŌĞƌ ĚƌŝůůŝŶŐ ĐůĞĂƌĂŶĐĞ ĂŶĚ ƉŝůŽƚ ŚŽůĞƐ ƚŽ ƉƌĞǀĞŶƚ ƐƉůŝƫŶŐ ƚŚĞ ǁŽŽĚ͘ ^ƋƵĂƌĞ ƚŚĞ ƚǁŽ ƉĂƌƚƐ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚůLJ͘ ͻ ŌĞƌ ĂƩĂĐŚŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ŇĂŶŐĞƐ͕ ŵĂŬĞ ƐƵƌĞ ƚŽ ĐůĞĂŶ ƵƉ ĂŶLJ ŐůƵĞ ƐƋƵĞĞnjĞͲŽƵƚ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ďĞĂƌŝŶŐ ĞĚŐĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ͘ DĂŬĞ ƐƵƌĞ ƚŽ ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƐŵĂůů ĐůĂŵƉŝŶŐ ŇĂŶŐĞ ƚŽ ĂůůŽǁ ƵŶŝŵƉĞĚĞĚ ƚƌĂǀĞů ĨŽƌ ǁŚĂƚĞǀĞƌ ƌŽƵƚĞƌ LJŽƵ ƉůĂŶ ƚŽ ƵƐĞ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚĞ ũŝŐ͘ WŚŽƚŽƐ͗ WĂƵů ŶƚŚŽŶLJ͖ /ůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶ͗ &ƌĂŶŬ ZŽŚƌďĂĐŚ ///

Squaring the square. ĸdž ƚŚĞ ĨĞŶĐĞ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ ǁŝƚŚ ŐůƵĞ͕ Ă ƐŝŶŐůĞ ƐĐƌĞǁ͕ ĂŶĚ ƚǁŽ ƚĞŵƉŽƌĂƌLJ ĐůĂŵƉƐ͘ ,ŽůĚ Ă ƐƋƵĂƌĞ ĂŐĂŝŶƐƚ ƚŚĞ ĐƌŽƐƐďĂƌ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ƌŝŐŚƚ ƐŝĚĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ĨĞŶĐĞ͕ ĂŶĚ ůŽŽƐĞŶ ƚŚĞ ĐůĂŵƉƐ ĞŶŽƵŐŚ ƚŽ ƉŝǀŽƚ ƚŚĞ ĨĞŶĐĞ ŝŶƚŽ ƉĞƌĨĞĐƚ ƐƋƵĂƌĞ͘ ZĞƟŐŚƚĞŶ ŽŶĞ ĐůĂŵƉ͕ ĂŶĚ ůŽĐŬ ƚŚĞ ĂůŝŐŶŵĞŶƚ ŝŶ ƉůĂĐĞ ďLJ ĚƌŝǀŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ƚŚƌĞĞ ƌĞŵĂŝŶŝŶŐ ƐĐƌĞǁƐ͘ April/May 2016

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ 59

Joinery Class

Half-Blind Dovetails DĂƐƚĞƌ Ă ĐůĂƐƐŝĐ ũŽŝŶƚ ƵƐŝŶŐ Ă ĐŽŵďŝŶĂƟŽŶ of power and hand tool techniques

By Chris Hedges

C

onsidering that examples of dovetail joinery can be traced back to ancient Egyptian times, it’s fair to say that woodworkers have been arguing about the best way to cut dovetails for thousands of years.

Today’s version of this debate often boils down to whether or not the “best” dovetails are cut by hand or machine. My hybrid approach for making half-blind dovetail joints is a good compromise. (I use a similar technique to make through dovetails; see p. 32.)

Half-blind dovetails are

62

woodcraftmagazine.com

most commonly used to join drawer sides to drawer fronts.

The drawer I’m building here has a 7Τ8"-thick cherry front and 1Τ2"-thick poplar sides. A thick drawer front like this allows for longer tails, which

ϐ Ǥ The “machine” part of my technique involves cutting tails on the tablesaw and removing waste between pins on the drawer front using a dovetail bit in the router.

The angle of your dovetail bit (I use a 14° bit most frequently) dictates the required tilt of the tablesaw blade when making

April/May 2016

tail cuts. For best results, have a dedicated saw blade custom ground so the blade leaves a ϐ Ǧ tail cuts. If your local sharpening service can’t modify a ripping blade for you, contact Forrest (www.forrestblades.com) to have a dovetailing blade prepared. ϐ worth mentioning: Planing ϐ ϐ from front to back. So make sure the grain of each side runs uphill toward the back of the drawer for smoother planing.

WƵƚ LJŽƵƌ ŵĂƌŬŝŶŐ ŐĂƵŐĞ Θ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌƐ ƚŽ ǁŽƌŬ I like to avoid math whenever possible. I also believe in the longstanding advice that you should never measure if you can simply mark. This dovetail layout method complies with both preferences.

Begin by setting the marking gauge to the planned tail length (5Τ8") and scribing baselines on the pin and tail boards. Remember that there’s also a baseline for the sockets, scribed along the inside face of the drawer front and equal in depth to the thickness of your tail board. ϐ marking gauge, reach for your dividers. The divider layout method (explained at right) enables you to easily divide a tail board into symmetrically spaced, identically sized dovetails.

If the tail-pin proportions aren’t to your liking after going through the procedure, simply adjust your dividers narrower or wider and repeat the process until the spacing is right.

Z t Z &ZKEd ;W/E K Z Ϳ

, >& W/E d /> ^K < d

ĂƐĞůŝŶĞ

Start at the end. ^ĐŽƌĞ ďĂƐĞ ůŝŶĞƐ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ƉŝŶ ďŽĂƌĚ ;ƐŚŽǁŶ ŚĞƌĞͿ ĂŶĚ ƚĂŝů ďŽĂƌĚ ǁŝƚŚ Ă ŵĂƌŬŝŶŐ ŐĂƵŐĞ ƐĞƚ ƚŽ 5Ш8Η͘ dŚĞŶ reset the gauge to 1Ш2Η ƚŽ ůĂLJ ŽƵƚ Ă ďĂƐĞůŝŶĞ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ŝŶƐŝĚĞ ĨĂĐĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƉŝŶ ďŽĂƌĚ͘

W/E^

Ш8"

5

Ш8"

5

d />^ ĂƐĞůŝŶĞ Z t Z ^/ ;d /> K Z Ϳ

ŝǀŝĚĞƌ ůĂLJŽƵƚ ŝŶ ϰ ƐƚĞƉƐ

Walk it out. ^ƚĂƌƚ ƚŚĞ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌ ƟƉ 1Ш8" from ŽŶĞ ĞŶĚ͕ ĂŶĚ ǁĂůŬ ĞƋƵĂů ƐƚĞƉƐ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ to a 1Ш4Η ŵĂƌŬ͘ ZĞƉĞĂƚ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŽƉƉŽƐŝƚĞ ĚŝƌĞĐƟŽŶ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ŵĂƌŬ ůŝŶĞƐ Ăƚ ĞĂĐŚ ƉŽŝŶƚ ƚŽ ĐƌĞĂƚĞ ƚĂŝů ǁŝĚƚŚ ĂŶĚ ƉŝŶ ƐƉĂĐĞ͘ Tails before grooves. Dŝůů ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ŐƌŽŽǀĞ ǁŚĞŶ ƚĂŝů ůĂLJŽƵƚ ŝƐ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞ͘ Locate the groove ǁŝƚŚŝŶ ƚŚĞ ďŽƩŽŵ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝů͘

WŚŽƚŽƐ͗ >ĂƌƌLJ ,ĂŵĞůͲ>ĂŵďĞƌƚ͖ /ůůƵƐƚƌĂƟŽŶ͗ <ĞůůLJ :͘ ƵŶƚŽŶ

ϭ͘ DĂƌŬ 1Ш4Η ŝŶ ĨƌŽŵ ƚŚĞ ŽƵƚƐŝĚĞ ĞĚŐĞƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƚĂŝů ďŽĂƌĚ͕ ĂŶĚ ĂĚũƵƐƚ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌƐ ƐůŝŐŚƚůLJ ůĂƌŐĞƌ ƚŚĂŶ ĚĞƐŝƌĞĚ ƚĂŝů ǁŝĚƚŚ͘ Ϯ͘ /ĚĞŶƟĨLJ ůĞŌ ĞĚŐĞƐ ŽĨ ƚĂŝůƐ ďLJ ͞ǁĂůŬŝŶŐ͟ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌƐ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ǁŝĚƚŚ ŽĨ ƚĂŝů ďŽĂƌĚ͕ ƐƚĂƌƟŶŐ 1Ш8Η ĨƌŽŵ ĞĚŐĞ͘ ŌĞƌ ϯ ƐƚĞƉƐ͕ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌ ƉŽŝŶƚ ƐŚŽƵůĚ ůĂŶĚ ŽŶ ŽƉƉŽƐŝƚĞ 1Ш4Η ŵĂƌŬ͘ ĚũƵƐƚ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌƐ ĂŶĚ ƌĞƉĞĂƚ ŝĨ ŶĞĐĞƐƐĂƌLJ͘ ϯ͘ /ĚĞŶƟĨLJ ƌŝŐŚƚ ĞĚŐĞƐ ŽĨ ƚĂŝůƐ ďLJ ǁĂůŬŝŶŐ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌƐ ďĂĐŬ ŝŶ ŽƉƉŽƐŝƚĞ ĚŝƌĞĐƟŽŶ͘ ϰ͘ hƐĞ ƐƋƵĂƌĞ ĂŶĚ ďĞǀĞů ŐĂƵŐĞ ƚŽ ŵĂƌŬ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝů ůĂLJŽƵƚ ĂůŽŶŐ ƚŽƉ ĞĚŐĞ ĂŶĚ ĚŽǁŶ ƚŽ ďĂƐĞůŝŶĞƐ ŽŶ ƚĂŝů ďŽĂƌĚ͘

^ĞĞ ŚƌŝƐ ,ĞĚŐĞƐ ĚĞŵŽŶƐƚƌĂƚĞ ŚŝƐ ĚŝǀŝĚĞƌ ůĂLJŽƵƚ ŵĞƚŚŽĚ ŝŶ Ă ǀŝĚĞŽ at wŽŽĚĐƌĂŌŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ͘ ůŝĐŬ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ͞ ƌƟĐůĞƐ͟ ƚĂď ƚŽ ůŽĐĂƚĞ ƚŚŝƐ ŽŶůŝŶĞ ydZ ͘

April/May 2016

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ 63

:ŽŝŶĞƌLJ Class

A dedicated sled ensures precision and speed when making tail cuts Whether I’m making through or half-blind dovetails, I cut the tail cheeks on my tablesaw, using a sled that slides in both miter gauge slots. Since I plan to rout the pins with a 14° dovetail bit, I have a ripping blade custom-ground so that ϐ Ǧ kerf when tilted to 14°. Bladesharpening services are usually

able to modify an existing ripping blade in this way.

Once the blade is tilted and raised to the proper level in the jig, the adjustable stop

in the jig’s fence allows me to make matched cuts in both drawer sides, as well as symmetrical cuts, by rotating the workpiece 180°.

Ăŵ ĂĐƟŽŶ hold-down Adjustable stop

Set the angle. ŌĞƌ LJŽƵ ůĂLJ ŽƵƚ ƚŚĞ ƚĂŝůƐ͕ ďƌŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ďĞǀĞů ŐĂƵŐĞ ƚŽ LJŽƵƌ tablesaw to set the blade angle.

Precise cheek cuts. ĞƐŝŐŶĞĚ ĨŽƌ ĐƵƫŶŐ ĚŽǀĞƚĂŝůƐ͕ ƚŚŝƐ ũŝŐ ŚĂƐ ĂŶ ĂĚũƵƐƚĂďůĞ ƐƚŽƉ ƚŚĂƚ ŐƵĂƌĂŶƚĞĞƐ ƉƌĞĐŝƐŝŽŶ ǁŚĞŶ ŵĂŬŝŶŐ ƐLJŵŵĞƚƌŝĐĂů ĂŶĚ ƌĞƉĞĂƚ ĐƵƚƐ͘

Waste removal. A scrollsaw makes quick work of removing waste between tails, but a coping saw will also do the job.

64

woodcraftmagazine.com

April/May 2016

Clean up. With the bulk of the waste removed, I use a mallet and chisel to chop to the baseline.

ZŽƵƚ ŽƵƚ ƚŚĞ ƉŝŶďŽĂƌĚ ƚĂŝů ƐŽĐŬĞƚƐ͕ ƚŚĞŶ ƉĂƌĞ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ůŝŶĞ

Ǥ ǡ Ǥ

Ǥ ϐ ǡ

Ǥ

ǡ

ǯ

ȋ ȌǤ

1Τ 16̶ Ǥ

ǯ

Ǥ ǡ ǯ ϐ Ǥ

Freehand control.

Eyeball the cut to stay inside your knifed lines. The ƐƚŽƉďůŽĐŬ ůŝŵŝƚƐ ĐƵƫŶŐ ĚĞƉƚŚ͘

From tails to pins. Hold the tail board ĮƌŵůLJ ŝŶ ƉůĂĐĞ ĂŶĚ ƚƌĂŶƐĨĞƌ ƚŚĞ ƚĂŝů cheek layout with a marking knife.

Pare to the line. ůŝƩůĞ ŵŽƌĞ ĐůĞĂŶƵƉ ǁŝƚŚ a chisel and you’re ready for assembly.

Test, adjust, assemble & shave the joint smooth Ǧϐ ϐ Ǧ ϐ Ǥ

Ǧ Ǥ

ϐ Ǥ Passing the test. ŌĞƌ ƐŽŵĞ ĮŶĂů ƉĂƌŝŶŐ͕ ƚŚŝƐ Įƚ ƐŚŽǁƐ ƚŚĞ ũŽŝŶƚ ŝƐ ƌĞĂĚLJ ĨŽƌ ŐůƵĞƵƉ͘

WůĂŶĞ ŝƚ ŇƵƐŚ͘ ƐůŝŐŚƚůLJ ƉƌŽƵĚ ĚƌĂǁĞƌ ĨƌŽŶƚ ŝŶǀŝƚĞƐ ƉůĂŶŝŶŐ ƚŽ ŵĂŬĞ ƚŚĞ ũŽŝŶƚ ƐŵŽŽƚŚ ĂŶĚ ŇƵƐŚ͘ April/May 2016

woodcraftmagazine.com

65

Ad Index PRODUCT Adhesives

Website

Page

Satellite City

www.caglue.com

17

National Hardware

System Three Resins

www.systemthree.com

18

Marking & Measuring

Titebond

www.titebond.com

Hardware

9

ŝƚƐ͕ ůĂĚĞƐ͕ Θ ƵƩĞƌƐ Forrest Mfg.

www.forrestblades.com

41

Turning Supplies www.natman.com

Starrett

www.starrett.com

Woodpeckers

www.woodpeck.com

71

13

Fred Wissen Designs

www.ptownsubbie.com

Robert Sorby

www.robert-sorby.co.uk

21

Ring Master

www.ringmasterlathe.com

70

Teknatool

www.teknatool.com

16

www.woodcraft.com

20

5

Moisture Meters

Freud

www.woodcraft.com/Freud

IFC

Lignomat

www.lignomat.com

16

Woodcraft

Whiteside Machine

www.whitesiderouterbits.com

60

Wagner

www.wagnermeters.com

10

Wood & Veneers

www.katools.com

12

Clamps and Hold-downs

Power Carving

Armor

www.armor-tool.com

Blokkz

www.blokkz.com

71

Power Tool Accessories

WoodRiver

www.woodcraft.com

40

Kreg

www.kregtool.com

23

Radarcarve

www.radarcarve.net

71

7

ƵƐƚ ŽůůĞĐƟŽŶ American Fabric Filter

www.americanfabricfilter.com

Oneida

www.oneida-air.com

57 15 & 67

Finishing

King Arthur’s Tools

Power Tools

70 19

www.pswood.com

70

13

Royalwood Ltd.

www.royalwoodltd.com

71

1

Settich Media

www.plansunlimited.com

71

Tanos

www.woodcraft.com

41

Triton

www.tritontools.com

3

Woodcraft Franchise

www.woodcraftfranchise.com

11

Woodcraft Magazine

www.woodcraftmagazine.com

66 & 70

Woodcraft Supply

www.woodcraft.com

www.rikontools.com www.supermaxtools.com

Howard

www.howardproducts.com

23

Supermax

Rustoleum

www.woodcraft.com

14

^ĐŚŽŽůͬ/ŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶ

41

CT Valley School of WW www.schoolofwoodworking.com

57

The American Woodshop www.wbgu.org/americanwoodshop

23

Sharpening 17

www.brand-first.com www.harborfreight.com

Rikon

www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk

Brand First

PS Wood

57

Thomas Flinn & Co.

Woodworking Supplies

Harbor Freight

www.generalfinishes.com

61

70

71

General Finishes

www.woodcraft.com

71

www.woodfinder.com

BC

www.norwoodsawmills.com

Hand Tools

www.westpennhardwoods.com

Woodfinder

www.lagunatools.com

Norwood

Woodcraft

West Penn Hardwoods

70

www.digitalwoodcarver.com

IBC

70

www.nwbamboo.com

Laguna Tools www.earlex.com

wecare@touchupsolutions.com

Northwest Bamboo

Digital Wood Carver

Earlex

Touch-up Solutions

70

DMT

www.dmtsharp.com

22

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April/May 2016

Check us out ! online

72

Buyer’s Guide 4. WoodRiver toggle clamp, low silhouette

News and Views (p. 10)

1

1. Power Twist Link Belt, 4'

#145530, $39.99

5. Freud 14°, Dovetail Router Bit, Ш4"SH

#143938, $14.19

18. Veritas Planing Stop, standard 3Ш4" posts

#05G22.12, $19.95

#844628, $31.47

19. Veritas Fast-Action Hold-Down

#05G47.01, $84.00

For all Veritas items: www.leevalley.com.

Hot New Tools (p. 16)

Workbench Workmates (p. 42)

1. Festool ETS EC 150/5,Brushless Sander

#571892, $485

1. Kreg Klamp Trak (Lengths sold separately and

2. Festool ETS EC 150/3,Brushless Sander

#571880, $485

3. Festool ETS EC 125/3, Brushless Sander

#571897, $385

A-Frame Planter (p. 24) 1. SPAX #8 × 2" cabinet screw,

www.amazon.com, $9.25

1

2. WoodRiver T-nuts, 10 pack Ш4-20 1

3. DeWalt 2 Ш4" standard hole saw,

#130226, $2.50 www.amazon.com $10.65

20. Armor Auto-Pro Horizontal Dog Clamp

ƌŽǁƐŝŶŐ 'ŝƌĂīĞƐ >ĂŵƉ (p. 46)

in kits. See woodcraft.com for more info.)

2. Kreg Klamp Plate

#146157, $13.99

3. Kreg 6" Automaxx Klamp

#158505, $37.99

4. Kreg 3" Automaxx Klamp

#158506, $43.99

5. Kreg Klamp Blocks

#148166, $14.99

1. Brown Palms Bell Lamp Shade, #6COO3, www.lampsplus.com, $9.99

3.5 × 6 × 5"

2. Lamp Hardware Kit, www.johnwhutchinson.com/supplies $35.00

Curvy Wall Shelf (p. 52)

6. Kreg Klamp Vise (Kit includes vise plate, Klamp, and two dogs.)

#160636, $37.99

#161222, $59.99

1. Whiteside 3050 Keyhole Slot Router Bit, 1

Ш4" SH, 3Ш8" D

#08I42, $14.99

7. Armor Auto-Pro In-Line Dog Clamp

#160635, $33.99

10 Tips for Turning Tricky Wood (p. 28)

8. Armor 4" Dog Fence

#160637, $14.99

1. Adjustable Face Shield

#150706, $23.99

9. Armor 8" Dog Fence

#160638, $17.99

2. Disposable Half Mask Respirator, R95, medium

#153976, $20.25

10. Armor 14" Dog Fence

#160639, $19.99

3. Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig

#125676, $89.99

11. Armor 4" Dog Bracket

#160640, $19.99

12. Armor 12" Dog Bracket

#160641, $34.99

1. Groz 8" dividers

#141597, $29.99

13. Veritas Wonder Pup

#153368, $35.99

2. Freud 14°, Dovetail Router Bit, 1Ш4"SH

#844628, $31.47

Standing Desk (p. 32) 1. WoodRiver 3Ш4" OD (21Ш32" ID) router bushing 2. WoodRiver Bushing Lock Nut

1

Ш4" SH, Ш4" D

Sewing Machine Light,

14. Veritas Bench Pup

#05G04.03, $13.50

3. WoodRiver Cam Action Hold-Down

#144696, $3.79

15. Veritas Planing Stop, 93Ш4", 3Ш4" posts

#05G23.01, $23.50

4. INCRA T-Track, 18"

16. Veritas Planing Stop, 171Ш2", 3Ш4" posts

#05G23.05, $28.50

17. Veritas Planing Stop, 251Ш4", 3Ш4" posts

#05G23.07, $33.50

#03K33, $20.99

www.amazon.com, $11.99

Half-Blind Dovetails (p. 62)

#144693, $8.09

3. Whiteside solid carbide upcut router bit, 1

2. Mighty Bright 64602 LED

#145630, $7.99 #142803, $10.99

Unless otherwise listed, items above available at Woodcraft stores, at woodcraft.com, or by calling (800) 225-1153. Prices subject to change without notice.

April/May 2016

woodcraftmagazine.com

67

WoodSense

Spotlight on White Ash A bargain blonde hardwood

By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk Curly Ash

E

ven if you haven’t laid woodworking tools to white ash (Fraxinus americana), odds are good that you’ve done plenty of other work with this wood. It’s the traditional handle material for garden implements such as rakes, hoes, and other non-striking tools.

Because it imparts no odor or taste to food, ash is also a major player in many kitchens. It’s often used for food containers, bowls, and serving utensils. ϐ ǡ seem as awe-inspiring as other top-shelf cabinet woods such as walnut, cherry, or mahogany, but this affordable home-grown hardwood can be employed to build beautiful furniture. Here’s what you need to know to select the best stock, and to make the most of this blonde beauty.

Burl ash veneer Olive ash veneer

68

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ

History in Woodworking Due to its many amenable physical attributes, including strength, elasticity, and shock resistance, ash has long been used for myriad utilitarian objects: baskets, wheel rims, oars, tool handles, chairs, and even spears. The wood has even been steam-bent or glue-laminated to form sturdy wooden frames for motor vehicles and aircraft. In the age of composites, ash has lost ground, but it is still used for hockey sticks, polo mallets, snowshoes, skis, and baseball bats. (But don’t leave this outdoor equipment outdoors; despite its toughness, ash doesn’t hold up well to extended exterior ϐ ϐ preservative treatment.)

In addition to its many other utilitarian purposes, ash’s light color and attractive grain make it well suited for furniture, cabinetry, and even car interiors, ϐ veneers often come into play. As an economical

April/May 2016

stand-in for oak, ash played a strong supporting role during America’s “Golden Oak” era.

Where the wood comes from Ash trees are widespread across much of Europe, Asia, and North America. The U.S. hosts 18 different species, led in quantity and commercial value by white ash. White ash and its cousins green, blue, and pumpkin ash (all often sold as white ash)—range from New England and Nova Scotia west to Minnesota, and south to Texas and Florida. Black ash (Fraxinus nigra), sometimes marketed as brown ash, can be found in the northern part of this range.

Ash Quick Take Density

ϰϮ ůďƐͬ͘ĐƵďŝĐ Ō͘

Hardness

High (a bit less than red oak)

Stability

Excellent

Rot and insect resistance

Low

Texture

Coarse

Toxicity

Low

Uses

Cabinets, chairs, ŇŽŽƌŝŶŐ͕ ĨŽŽĚ containers, tool ŚĂŶĚůĞƐ͕ ƐƉŽƌƟŶŐ implements

ƵƌůLJ ĂƐŚ ƐĂŵƉůĞ ĐŽƵƌƚĞƐLJ ŽĨ ,ĂĞƐƐůLJ ,ĂƌĚǁŽŽĚ͕ DĂƌŝĞƩĂ͕ KŚŝŽ

How to select the best stock Because low-grade logs are relegated to pallet stock or ϐ ǡ ϐ Ǧ ǯ ϐ ǡ Ǥ

ǡ

ǯ ǡ Ǥ

Ǥ

ϐ ǯ ǡ ǡ ϐ Ǥ ǯ

ǡ

ϐ ǡ ǡ Ǥ

ϐ ǡ ǡ Ǧ

ǡ

ǡ Ǥ

ǡ ϐ Ǥ

ϐ ǡ ǯ Ǧ ȋ ǡ ȌǤ Ǧ ϐ Dz Ǥdz ǡ

Ǥ

Working ash in the shop

ǡ ǡ Ǥ ǡ Ǥ WŚŽƚŽƐ͗ >ĂƌƌLJ ,ĂŵĞůͲ>ĂŵďĞƌƚ

L ǡ

Ǥ ǡ Ǧ Ǥ ǡ Ǥ ϐ Ǥ

Flatsawn

ZŝŌƐĂǁŶ

Finishing ash

Ǥ ǯ

Ǥ Ǧ ǡ

ǡ

ǡ Ǥ ϐ ǡ ǡ ϐ ǡ Ǥ

Quartersawn

BĂƩůŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ŵĞƌĂůĚ ƐŚ ŽƌĞƌ Since its discovery in 2002, the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) has ŬŝůůĞĚ ŵŝůůŝŽŶƐ ŽĨ ĂƐŚ ƚƌĞĞƐ ĨƌŽŵ ƚŚĞ DŝĚǁĞƐƚ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ DŝĚͲ ƚůĂŶƟĐ States and in southern Canada. At risk is not only commercially ŚĂƌǀĞƐƚĞĚ ƚƌĞĞƐ ďƵƚ ĂůƐŽ Ăůů ƚŚĞ ǀĂƌŝĞƟĞƐ ŽĨ ĂƐŚ ƚƌĞĞƐ ŐƌŽǁŝŶŐ ĂůŽŶŐ ĐŝƚLJ ƐƚƌĞĞƚƐ͕ ŝŶ ƉĂƌŬƐ͕ ĂŶĚ ŽŶ ƉƌŝǀĂƚĞ ƉƌŽƉĞƌƚLJ͘ YŽƵ ĐĂŶ ŚĞůƉ ĐŽŶƚƌŽů ƚŚĞ ͛Ɛ ƐƉƌĞĂĚ ďLJ ŚĞĞĚŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĨŽůůŽǁŝŶŐ ŐƵŝĚĞůŝŶĞƐ͗ • Look for 1Ш8Η ĚŝĂ͘ ͲƐŚĂƉĞĚ ŚŽůĞƐ ŝŶ ƚƌĞĞƐ ĂŶĚ ĮƌĞǁŽŽĚ͘ ĚƵůƚƐ ĞŵĞƌŐĞ ĨƌŽŵ ŝŶĨĞƐƚĞĚ ƚƌĞĞƐ ŝŶ ŵŝĚͲ DĂLJ ĂŶĚ ƌĞĂĐŚ ƚŚĞŝƌ ƉĞĂŬ ďLJ ĞĂƌůLJ :ƵůLJ͘ • IĨ LJŽƵ ĚĞƚĞĐƚ ŝŶĨĞƐƚĂƟŽŶ͕ ƌĞƉŽƌƚ LJŽƵƌ ĮŶĚŝŶŐƐ ƚŽ ĂƵƚŚŽƌŝƟĞƐ͘ /Ĩ LJŽƵ ŽǁŶ ƚŚĞ ƐƵƐƉĞĐƚ ƚƌĞĞ͕ ĐĂůů Ă ƚƌĞĞ ƐĞƌǀŝĐĞ ĨŽƌ ƉŽƐƐŝďůĞ ŝŶƐĞĐƟĐŝĚĞ ƚƌĞĂƚŵĞŶƚ͘ ;dƌĞĞƐ ǁŝƚŚ ůĞƐƐ ƚŚĂŶ ϰϬй ĐĂŶŽƉLJ ĚŝĞͲŽī ĐĂŶ ŽŌĞŶ ďĞ ƐĂǀĞĚ͘Ϳ • DŽŶ͛ƚ ƚƌĂŶƐƉŽƌƚ ĮƌĞǁŽŽĚ͘ ;/Ŷ ƐŽŵĞ ƌĞŐŝŽŶƐ͕ ƚŚŝƐ ŝƐ Ă ĮŶĞĂďůĞ ŽīĞŶƐĞ͘Ϳ • IĨ LJŽƵ ĐŽůůĞĐƚ ĂƐŚ ĨŽƌ ƚƵƌŶŝŶŐ͕ Žƌ ďƵLJ ŝƚ ĨƌŽŵ Ă ůŽĐĂů ǁŽŽĚůŽƚ͕ ƌĞŵŽǀĞ ƚŚĞ ďĂƌŬ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ĮƌƐƚ ŝŶĐŚ ŽĨ ƐĂƉǁŽŽĚ ďĞĨŽƌĞ ƚƌĂŶƐƉŽƌƚ͘ ;dŚŝƐ ŝƐ ƚŚĞ ƉĂƌƚ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƚƌĞĞ ƚŚĂƚ ŚĂƌďŽƌƐ ƚŚĞ ĞŐŐƐ ĂŶĚ ůĂƌǀĂĞ͘Ϳ FŽƌ ŵŽƌĞ ŝŶĨŽ͕ ŐŽ ƚŽ www.emeraldashborer.info. ƉƌŝůͬDĂLJ ϮϬϭϲ

ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂĨƚŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ ϲϵ

The Market

Volume Issue 32-61

2

30 issues packed with projects and detailed ŝŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶƐ ŽŶ ŚŽǁ to build them.

Plus...

• Techniques • Tool reviews ͻ :ŝŐƐ Θ ĮdžƚƵƌĞƐ • Workshop projects • Tips

DIMENSIONAL LUMBER, COUNTERTOPS, VENEERS, PLYWOOD To order product #161370 visit www.woodcraft.com or visit your local Woodcraft store.

ADVERTISE IN

The Market Contact: Vic Lombard at (304) 865-5262 or e-mail at: Vic_Lombard@ ǁŽŽĚĐƌĂŌŵĂŐĂnjŝŶĞ͘ĐŽŵ 70

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April/May 2016

D A B LY A F F O R

C R E AT E

&

C A R V E

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FOR HOME & PROFIT

GREAT FOR Custom Engravers Woodworkers/ Craft Makers Sign Designers Artisans

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BUILD A

Workshop On Wheels (WOW!) PDF E-Book

IN ONLY 8 SQUARE FEET YOU GAIN: 44 sq. feet of drawer space, 8 sq. ft. workbench, 9 cubic ft. upper cabinet 72 page Ebook: Complete plans and construction tips

$19.95 FREE shipping in USA SETTICH MEDIA, LLC

April/May 2016

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