Perspective
The Making of Champions part 4
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Throughout history,
livestock breeders have aspired to establish respected animal breeds renowned by their names. This recognition has been an important aspect for breeders that is often proportional to their ambition to produce quality animals. It’s not only the sense of accomplishment breeders seek, but the fact that highly esteemed animals are real assets that can be imported and exported between countries as precious commodities. Some prized breeds even have lineages tracing back to the earliest recorded history and are considered truly priceless treasures. Alpacas, while lacking pedigrees into antiquity, are known to be descendant from the first indigenous herdsmen to have successfully domesticated their ancestors. These first breeders are the seed of knowledge that has been handed down through the generations (and encoded in the DNA) of the alpacas we continue to improve today. Having hand selected our first alpacas from the many regions of Peru, the Snowmass herd directly originates from these ancient, excellent, and diverse genetic lines. Our mission was then and still is today, to proudly carry on and contribute to the Peruvian breeding legacy. The name “Snowmass� has come to stand for the same dedication, passion, and love for the alpaca as those breeders before us. Our life work is devoted to the continued advancement of alpacas, and our aim to produce nothing short of the highest quality alpacas in the world. Snowmass lineages now trace back multiple decades (33 years) and are backed by advanced genetic research. First typed through AOA, and then verified through Camelid Identification System (CIS) for a more extensive DNA marker profile for each alpaca. This leading-edge herd research has allowed us to proliferate the excellence in our lineages on an unprecedented level. The Alpaca is a uniquely intelligent, gentle, and marvelous species, bearing an extraordinarily luxurious fiber. Through continued selective breeding, we are now reaching levels of fineness comparable to the ancestor Vicuna - which is among the rarest, finest, and most sought after natural fibers in the world. The future for Alpaca is bright so long as the breeding knowledge is passed on, retained, and acted upon by new generations of breeders. This is our mission through this and other Snowmass publications: To share our breeding techniques and vision for the future of the industry with alpaca breeders of all experience levels, the world over.
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Hope & Vision
For the Future of the Alpaca Industry TMOC-PART4CC.indd 3
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As alpaca breeders we strive to: • • • • • • •
Breed alpacas that can meet the demands of future fiber markets. Breed alpacas that stand-out and retain value. Encourage industry support systems that lead breeders into new world markets. Share scientific research and successful herd management systems. Promote continued scientific advancements in alpaca genetic research. Encourage the international exchange of industry goals. Support improvements in show systems reflective of international breeding and production goals.
As we head into the future, it is imperative that we as breeders come to understand the full range of perspectives and opportunities in our Industry — especially those related to the present and future demand for Alpaca. These include wholesale wool buyers, designers, textile producers, sales in meat and hides, and (most importantly) genetic seed stock production. Snowmass Alpacas came into the Alpaca Industry, over 30 years ago, with knowledge of the commercial markets as they related to Sheep and exotic fibers. At that time the only alpaca market with any substantial commercial impact was in South America. Peru was at the helm of alpaca fiber production with notable names such as Michell Group, Inca Tops, and Grupo Inca leading the way alongside a host of smaller companies.
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Today, Peru remains the primary commercial supplier of alpaca fiber and textiles to the world, however, even with over 3 million Peruvian alpacas producing fiber, alpaca remains the lowest in production volume among commercial wool bearing livestock. Alpaca has had difficulty competing with exotic fibers, such as cashmere, which consistently produce a higher percentage and amount of fine micron fiber. This has been an issue for alpaca in Peru, in part, due to a traditional system of payment based on total harvested weight rather than finer and higher quality fiber.
“World Alpaca production 1.1 World production of Alpaca The world production of Alpaca fiber was 5’300 tons in 2012. Perù is the leading Alpaca fiber producer. It represents 92% of the world output. Since 2006, Peruvian exports of Alpaca increased by 39% or 6% yearly ! – Alpaca EXPORTS 2006 to 2012 Rest of the WORLD 8% PERÙ 92% February 2014 Source:” SCA/ Customs Perù Source: SCA/Minagri” Incentives driven by production volume (weight) created a long-lived objective for growers to produce heavier fleeces. Fine micron fleeces inherently provide less weight, so breeders selected for higher micron fleece and larger frames. Another factor has been the viable South American meat market for both alpacas and llamas. A heavier carcass weight being an additional incentive.
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Alpaca Meat Alpaca meat has been a staple in the diet of most South American people and in particular for the alpaca herders and breeders themselves. Living in very harsh conditions with minimal supplements and income to survive, using the entirety of the alpaca has been a survival necessity for many generations — tracing back to the first ancestors who domesticated wild camelids. So, understanding that larger alpacas will produce more meat, more leather, more weight in fleece, and thus generate more income, it is no surprise that the hybridization with llamas became a standard practice. Alpaca textile producers in Peru found that the high-quality alpaca fiber they sought, once supplied, became increasingly scarce. It was then that an initiative arose to incentivize the production of quality alpaca fleeces. This incentive initially started as an offering of higher prices for finer fiber, but many herds were still finding it difficult to move away from the cultural tradition of breeding for larger and heavier fleeced alpacas. The initiative then expanded as an effort to directly educate breeders and encourage them to adopt the new breeding directives. Harvest methods were also revised to prevent farmers and herders from loading their fiber harvests with dirt and sand (or whatever methods they could improvise) to increase the weight “value� of their harvest.
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Alpaca breeders
For most of us, the first incentive is to have an alpaca that will sell for the highest possible price. So then, what specifically makes an alpaca valuable? The model of excellence is, like in Peru, directed by the incentives generated from the income the breeder or grower achieves from their herd. While sale prices do not always predict alpaca quality, they are one of the most influential factors in breeding selection. The overwhelming percentage of introductory US alpaca breeders were inaugurated into the market via strategic marketing plans. Namely, the “Loveable and huggable backyard investment and tax benefit� marketing scheme. Not to say that these are illegitimate elements of an alpaca business, but this system did not discriminate for any of the essential qualities of an alpaca.
Cusco Peru dried alpaca meat sold at San Pedro Market
Granted, the first alpacas that came into the country were of a much lesser quality than those we have today, and a significant learning curve was in play. Over time, quality based values for fleece and standard-of-type have developed within the established show and judging systems. This should seek to remind us all that we are still a very young industry, and that we have made some tremendous strides from where we started.
THE MORAL OF THE STORY:
Established incentives create breeding directives.
So now, the question is: As newworld growers and breeders, what are our incentives, and how do they influence our breeding directives?
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Alpaca owners first started gathering formally in 1986, Alpaca Owners & Breeders Association (AOBA) was formed in 1987 and incorporated in 1991. In 1988, alpaca registry rules and regulations were adopted, which included a requirement of blood typing all alpacas for registration. Today we can see steady progress towards fully embracing the commercial elements of fleece quality as the base standard of alpaca value. Also, the strength of alpaca conformation and aesthetic qualities of fiber coverage have become recognized as equally important aspects of value. In the United States show system, conformation is an essential component of an award. These essential qualities are the standard of excellence. As we develop into a viable commercial market reflective of the growing demand for alpaca fiber in developing product markets, we must pay close attention to the scientific analysis of the fleeces being produced by our herds. We have seen a more consistent focus on these elements in show judging, and it has become common place to have our fleeces tested each year. While this provides an excellent snapshot of our alpacas, the underlying documentation of genetic lines and production records are the key to encoding real excellence in our reproduction seed-stock. Show results and histograms can sell an alpaca, but they do not guarantee the ability to produce the same results in offspring. Without encoding genetic excellence via a thorough review of documented lineages and production records, nothing is a sure bet. As we move further into a viable alpaca textile marketplace, quality of fleece will form the foundation for the future of our alpaca breeding programs. With improvements and advancements in alpaca textile production, like those in Peru, high-end alpaca garments are hitting select fashion markets with great response and growing demand. Alpaca fiber is even proving to be competition for the finest grades of cashmere — as the production of cashmere is becoming increasingly
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challenging; alpaca is getting recognized as a viable economic and ecological alternative. The value of our fleece production depends on grade, sort, and volume. There are a growing number of quality grading systems that vary in micron ranges and factors such as staple length. The fiber processing facilities and plants (carders and spinnerys) also have different quality requirements based on what, and how, they process. Grades may differ between one company and another in this respect. This condition variation brings to light the grading discrepancies between smaller cottage producers and commercial producers.
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The General Standards for alpaca fiber grades in the US are as follows: GRADE A Ultra Royal (10-17.9) 2.5 to 5 inches GRADE 1 Royal (18- 20) 2.5 to 5 inches GRADE 2 Baby (20.1-22) 2.5 to 5 inches GRADE 3 Fine (22.1-24) 2.5 to 5 inches GRADE 4 (24.1-26)
ULTRA ROYAL
GRADE 5 (26.1-30) There are such scarce amounts of Grade A that prices are usually either auctioned or established between the grower and the buyer. The only recorded sale price in the US was $56 per lb (2012).
S
SNOWMASS A LPA C A S
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In Australia a Grade 1 (Royal) bale weighing 112 kilos, sold for $62.50 per kg ($28 per lb) totaling $7,000.
THE 2015-2016 ACOA FLEECE COLLECTION INITIATIVE KEY FINANCIAL DATA: 2016 2015
General markets for shorn blanket fiber are paying up to: $25 per lb for Grade 1 $8 - $12 per lb for Grade 2 & 3 $1 - $1.75 per lb for Grade 4
Total Sale Value of Collected Fleece 74841 63048 Amount Remitted to Consignors
ACOA Alpaca Coalition of America Summary Report For Growers: http://alpacacoalition.com/docs/ Summary-Report-for-Growers-2015-Collection.pdf
Amount Retained by ACOA
67001 53561 7380 9457
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BREAKDOWN BY GRADE/WEIGHT 1a > 18 microns, very fine primaries 1b approximately 18-0 microns Grade 1 Grade 2 – 20.1-22 microns Grade 3 – 22.1-24 micron Grade 4 – 24.1-26 micron Grade 5 – 26.1-30 micron
Grade 1a Grade 1b Grade 2 Grade 3 Grade 4 Grade 5
P L A T I N U M
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S N O W M A S S A LPA C A
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2015
Total number of contributing farms 168 Total number of collection farms 6 Final number of grading sites 2 Total weight of fleece baled for sale 14226 Total weight of fleece collected 16775 Number of Final Buyers 7 Largest buyers percentage of total sales 31%
79 5 3 10346 12500 5 25%
AGGREGATE FLEECE INFORMATION White/BG Fawn Brown/BB True Black Grey
$19 $30 $19 $19 $6-8 $6-8 $5-7 $5-6 $3.50-4.45 $3-6 $1.75-2.36 $1.75-2.36
It is vital as alpaca breeders and growers that we create the most value from our annual fiber harvests. Selling your fiber sorted and graded will give you much higher returns.
2016 2015 59% 29% 10% 1% 1%
19% 26% 20% 26%
Another thing to note is that a buyer, who is paying a premium for higher grades, expects the fleece to be uniform to the grade they are purchasing. Most collections do the grading verification themselves and pay the supplier for the grade they assess from the fleece. This assessment is a good incentive for all of us to increase our efforts in breeding for fineness in production, and in improving our harvesting methods.
S
2016
16% 22% 24% 20% 18%
3% 6%
PRICE RANGES PER POUND BY GRADE, DEPENDING ON COLOR AND LENGTH 2016 2015
SUPREME
COLLECTION DEMOGRAPHICS:
2016 2015
46% 31% 11% 3% 9%
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Here are the ACOA guidelines for grading: “SOME GUIDANCE ON GRADING: Your fleeces will be graded, not sorted prior to sale. This means that a trained professional will put each of your fleeces on a skirting table, evaluate them as a whole, and place them into the grade indicated by the lowest quality fiber present in the blanket. If the blanket fleece is fine but there is coarser belly or britch fiber included in the bag, this will result in the whole blanket ending up in a less valuable grade. The same is true if the fleece is contaminated with vegetable matter or other colors. We cannot do it any other way because we cannot cost effectively sort your fiber for you and must supply the processors using our fiber with the quality they need for their products. Please, skirt your blankets. No appeals of the grading process are possible.� The one hurdle we face is the cost of production. We can start to reduce costs of production by being more efficient in our harvest. Here are some Snowmass tips we have learned over our many years of shearing, which we have also shared at our symposiums.
SNOWMASS ALPACAS SKIRTING SORTING & GRADING TECHNIQUES: The Alpaca industry is growing and establishing stronger foundations each year. Much of this has to do with the collaborative sharing of knowledge (i.e., research and development efforts) among alpaca breeders and alpaca entrepreneurs. We as breeders are always looking forward to the future, and our drive is a desire to secure a strong future for our industry. We are always excited to share our experience and enthusiasm for alpacas, as we are confident that we can all prosper if we all work together.
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The following information highlights techniques that we use and fine tune each year to be more cost effective and efficient in our fiber harvest. It also explains our method of continually improving our alpaca breeding program. The real key to our success has been the way we utilize our tools and techniques to make assessments during the shearing process. Individual alpaca assessment is the solution to unlocking the secrets within your entire alpaca herd. The Snowmass assessment process is an exercise we practice and perform whenever we handle an alpaca or fleece. Our technique starts from the moment a cria is born and continues through its lifetime of development with a thorough evaluation each year during shearing harvest. The shearing yield is the most critical element of our assessment process. We assess the alpaca both on the shearing floor and again on the skirting table to take catalog samples for comparisons with lab results. Using our methods, we can improve the efficiency and quality of our fiber harvest each year. This method, is one of the most valuable things we can share with the alpaca community at large. Clearly, one of the core reasons we raise these beautiful creatures is for their unique fleece. We can’t stress enough that the most important information regarding your herd is most readily available during fiber harvest. So, taking the time to prepare for sorting and assessment during shearing is essential. You will not only learn the value represented in your herd but also (and more importantly) what you can do to improve it.
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the Set-up
REGARDING THE EQUIPMENT YOU NEED TO BE EFFICIENT IN YOUR HARVESTING PROCESS: Firstly, it is vital to have a good shearing table. You can save on costs by building your table, but it makes for more work in the long run. We started with a home-built wooden and PVC stationary table, but eventually upgraded to professional round (360 spinning) skirting tables. The tables were initially expensive, but have turned out to be an essential investment. We have 4 of the tables, two of which are heavy steel, and two are a newer aluminum design. The aluminum tables spin with less effort.
OUR SKIRTING TABLE SET-UP IS AS SEEN HERE: You will likely need a long table to organize your assessment workstation. We set up our station with equipment arranged from left to right based on the order of use — somewhat like an assembly line.
THE EQUIPMENT WE USE INCLUDES: A computer (laptop) containing our herd database, which allows us to look up any specific information we need for individual assessments. A flat ruler secured to the table for measuring staple length. Two clipboards, one holding a fiber evaluation spreadsheet to record fiber characteristics, and the other for medical assessments and additional notes. Two containers for fleece samples, one for lab testing, and the other for your farm records — lined with plastic bags for ease of reuse and organization. Pre-printed out sticky labels for the fiber samples, two for each alpaca listing Name, Date of Birth, Registration Number, Color, and Date of Shearing. An assortment of office supplies - pencils, pens, sharpies, stapler, handy wipes, coffee, chocolate and other essentials. The skirting tables sit in the middle of the floor, with bins nearby for the different fleece grades as well as for the seconds and thirds.
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NOW FOR THE ACTUAL SHEARING PROCESS: A few important things start happening as soon as the alpaca is laid down on the shearing floor. First, we record the alpaca’s ear tag number on a clearly visible whiteboard. The evaluation team can then look up the files for that alpaca and get fleece bags and labels prepared for the blanket fleece and fiber samples. Next, we make a quick overall evaluation (eyes, ears, teeth/bite, genitals, feet) of the alpaca. Once the shearing of the animals starts, the floor skirter visually evaluates the blanket for consistency (i.e., solid color, or color spotting) and makes a note of any health issues. The floor skirter will notify the evaluation team to record the data on the fiber assessment and medical spreadsheets. The floor skirter continues to sit at the side of the shearer helping to skirt the fleece as it comes off the alpaca. It’s imperative that while doing this, the floor skirter doesn’t impede the shearer’s movements and doesn’t pull on the fleece. Let the fleece naturally roll off the alpaca to the floor and then skirt away any unwanted areas (arm pits and underbelly). This lower-grade fiber can be placed to the side and then vacuumed away. If you don’t have a vacuum system, this should be collected by a secondary skirter and tossed into fourths. The floor skirter is also responsible for bagging and grading the neck fiber into seconds or thirds.
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After the Shearer has removed the blanket, the floor skirter carefully collects the blanket as a single piece and transfers it to the skirting table for the evaluation team. The secondary skirter continues to vacuum away (or sweep) all remnants of fiber from the floor to prevent cross-contaminating the next alpaca. To improve time-efficiency, we maintain two alternating tie-down stations on the shearing floor. Once the Shearer has finished an alpaca, another is immediately ready to go. We keep someone with each alpaca at all times to hold them still and to assist the Shearer. It takes two people to bring an alpaca to the floor and securely tie them down. One person trims the nails, does the initial health checks, and records the ear-tag number on the whiteboard. When the fleece comes to the skirting table, the head skirter/evaluator distinguishes the head and tail of the blanket. See diagram. The assessment then begins with grid samples (one for lab testing, one for farm) taken from three places across fleece —Midside, Shoulder, and Hip. The grid samples are combined into sample bags and stored in the appropriately labeled sample boxes. Then with the clipboard close by, the evaluator begins to
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make the evaluation notes while skirting. The blanket is further skirted to have the most uniform micron values from edge to edge across the coverage. The fleece is bagged with the name of the alpaca and the grade (or micron) of the fleece written across the top. The fleece is then weighed and placed into the bin appropriate for its category. Having someone help the primary evaluator with the bagging and labeling is highly recommended, if not essential. This helper will allow for full concentration on taking quality samples and making accurate evaluations. A good shearer will do a quality job shearing an alpaca in 5 minutes or less. We typically manage to shear 11 alpacas an hour, which averages to around 5 1/2 minutes per alpaca. This is including the occasional downtime of changing shearing blades and switching between animals. Once you and your team start to get into a rhythm, the whole process begins to run like a well-oiled machine.
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A FEW FINAL SPECIFICS FOR FLEECE EVALUATION. One of the most critical components of an alpaca assessment during shearing is the ability to balance time-efficiency with thoroughness. If you get too lost in the details of a single fleece you will end up stalling the whole shearing process. On the other hand, if you start feeling rushed by the speed of the process you may start overlooking important elements of the fleece. Keeping sharp eyes, a calm resolve, and trusting your initial discernment (avoiding too much second guessing) is the best approach. Over the years, I’ve come to find that will you will learn more by going with your instincts and then later comparing your assessment against lab tested results. You will quickly come to understand where you are accurate and what you need to adjust, becoming more proficient each time around. Like anything, continued practice makes perfect, or at least close enough to perfect to have confidence in your records. Commercial graders understand that time is money. When a fleece comes to the skirting table, the clock starts ticking. Keeping in pace with the Shearer you will need to sample, skirt, record, and grade all within 5 minutes or less. As an example, in our herd, we need to maintain a minimum of 100 alpacas per day which gives us about 3 minutes per fleece. The objective is to get an accurate snapshot of the entire fleece as you can always go back later to revise details and improve your notes. It’s also important to remember that the primary purpose of skirting and grading is preparing a fleece for sale or show.To review some of the details of the actual skirting and grading process.
SAMPLING: As mentioned earlier, the first step is to distinguish the front shoulders and hind end of the fleece. The fleece should be in one piece as it comes to the table. (See exhibit A & B)
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As you orientate yourself to the areas of the fleece take your grid or mid-side samples. Label the samples with Name, Date of birth, Registration #, Sex , Color, and Shearing Date. This is all the information the lab and records will need.
RECORDING: Begin to skirt the outer edges of the fleece, making a mental note of how much is needing to be skirted away. Fewer seconds and thirds tend to reflect more uniformity across the fleece. Sample again from various areas of the fleece and note the average Fineness, Uniformity, Luster, Curvature, and Staple Length. Once you have recorded all the values and the fleece has been skirted, you should decide what to do with the fleece (and perhaps the animal). For instance, show, baling, sale, or any other project you might have in mind. In some cases, it may need to be a culling decision. Label a fleece bag with the alpaca’s name, date, and fiber grade. If it’s a show fleece a quality bag should be used and the labeling should be written on the seam of the bag so it can be easily removed when entering the show. Finally, put the fleece on a scale, record the weight, and store it in the appropriate section of your facility.
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STORAGE OF FINISHED FLEECES We use heavy clear plastic bags purchased from Uline. For SHOW fleeces, we store them in a large bag labeled based on age sex and color. For instance: Juvenile White Male & Female Juvenile Color Male & Female Adult White & Male Adult Color & Male Our specific grading system allows for all grades in all colors (sorted by color)
BLANKET GRADES ULTRA ROYAL ASR 10-16.9 µ (must be bright-uniform, no prominent primary fibers) BSR 14-17.9 µ (less brightness if under 16.9 but less than 2% of fibers 30µ)
SNOWMASS 2ND & 3RD GRADES
ROYAL 18-19 µ (no requirement of brightness but must be less than 3% of fiber 30µ)
2nds (Neck & hip) Royal (10-19µ 2.5 to 5 inches)
BABY 20-22 µ
Baby (20-22µ 3 to 5 inches)
FINE 23-24 µ
3rds (Neck & hip)
STRONG 25 +
Fine (23-24µ Neck & Hip skirtings of fine fleeces 3 to 5 inches)
All skirtings (stronger fiber) are placed in designated grade bins.
Remnants: Fibers vacuumed during shearing. All belly fiber, leg, and all fibers that are not consistent with the blanket fiber and are less than 3 inches, and all blanket fiber that is stronger than 24 micron.
If you have any projects for this fiber, you can make a class specifically for them. (Rug, pillow, felt, etc.).
Older females that are producing 20-24 micron fleece have shorter secondary fibers, and the primary fibers are pronounced with a longer length. The primary fiber’s role is to help regulate the body temperature of the alpaca, and as alpacas age (or are exposed to many
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On a skirting table, you would see this fleece having a beautiful cut-side, but the exterior would contain a visible “halo” of primary fibers. The MFD of this fleece is a baby grade, but we would still sort it as Fine 23-24 — it will make for excellent products at this level. Having a special grade and purpose for aging alpacas is important as they still provide a great deal of value. Also, new processing equipment, capable of removing primary fibers, will allow the value of these fleeces to be further improved. Snowmass Alpaca’s market end-goal has always been to have our entire annual harvest (clip) measure within Royal and Baby grades. To achieve this goal our breeding program directive, for the last three decades, has been to only select our finest proven studs for reproduction. We often make special notes about studs during the shearing process and decide how to use them based on their evaluated fleece traits. If a male has been selected, we later make another (more thorough) inspection of conformational traits. We also review lineage and historical records to ensure absolute consistency of excellence before breeding. As a result, today, Snowmass Alpacas has only 10% of our herd’s fleeces grading over 23 microns. 5% of the herd is Fine grade, 20% is Baby grade, and 75% is confirmed Royal grade.
stressors), the production of primary fiber increases. Production females are especially predisposed to more primary fibers since the majority of their energy is spent in pregnancy with many additional stressors. So, even with a beautifully fine fleece, there is the possibility for increased primary production. These fleeces may be testing with a Baby AFD value, but the excessive primary fibers often require sorting the fleece into a stronger grade. Remember, commercial grading is based on the highest micron found in the fleece.
EXAMPLE: A histogram on a fleece with good fineness in secondary fibers but excessive primary fiber production would look something like this. Spin SD CV %>30 Fineness MFD 21.9 4.8 30.7 4.5 22.9
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Our own breeding aside, we forever recognize and appreciate the foundations that we have been fortunate to build upon. Peru’s finest alpaca breeders are the inextricable genetic roots beneath our own legacy. The Peruvian breeders have been a continual inspiration in our own breeding program, along with the entrepreneurs who have incentivised these breeders to create such phenomenal alpacas. Peru is still the global leader in high-end alpaca fashion and will continue to lead us into the future with its strong traditions and forward-thinking commercial vision. Quoting a statement from Grupo Inca’s fashion line KUNA:
Royal Alpaca “We guarantee that our ROYAL ALPACA threads come from the finest fiber (up to 19 microns) bringing a remarkable comfort sensation only comparable with other fine wools such as cashmere, camel, etc. This is our own concept created in order to set a difference with our competitors through our ‘’Selection of the Best Fiber’’ Process. Our craftsmen select the best alpaca fiber from both species of Alpaca: Suri and Huacaya, using ancient secrets and expert skill. Next, an automated process allows us to choose the finest, softest and warmest fiber, possessing an elegant and subtle sheen, and covering the entire color range offered by this marvelous fiber. The result is the production of garments with unmistakable elegance and personality...”
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Clearly, the true market value of an alpaca is determined by an ability to supply high-grade fiber in sufficient volumes. Here in the US, much like in South America, we struggle with a large percentage of lower-grade fiber still being produced by breeders and growers. That said, the incentives to breed for fineness are undoubtedly changing our industry dynamics. These growing incentives are the reason we are working to educate and inspire other breeders to adopt a set of breeding directives that have proven results. One thing remains universally clear, there is a significant difference in value between high-grade fibers (< 20 microns) and lower-grade fibers (> 20 microns). The more weight in Grade A / Grade 1 fiber that can be produced, the more inherent value. For an alpaca to produce a good weight of high-grade fiber, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fleece needs to have a uniform coverage in the desired grade. This uniformity of grade is an excellent breeding directive. While we continually strive to improve the quality in our respective herds, we should not forget that all grades of alpaca fiber have prospective market value. There are many applications outside of high fashion. Alpaca is a highly durable fiber and has a much softer handle than wool in strong micron grades. It is great for use in outerwear, outer-blankets, throws, rugs and more. One of our own projects is a partnership with Kumari rugs to produce beautiful hand-knotted Nepalese rugs - produced in Nepal. This revolutionary application for strong alpaca fiber (23-27-micron fleece) produces exquisite and durable heirloom pieces that will last for many generations. Even our lowest-grade remnants, leg, belly, and other fibers vacuumed away during shearing, have been bailed and sold for $1.00 - $1.75 per lb to the old New England Fiber Pool (NEFP). This fiber was put to use in felting, rug making, and other creative projects.
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GRADING INDIVIDUAL ELEMENTS OF THE ALPACA FLEECE As mentioned earlier, a great way to learn more about grading after shearing has finished is to compare your own records with lab results. Once you receive your lab results, you can bring your fleeces back onto the skirting table for more detailed evaluations. There are many different computer analysis programs like EPD’s and Across-herd Genetic Evaluation (AGE) services, but the most important element in YOU understanding your herd is learning how to recognize fleece characteristic with a hands-on evaluation.
SNOWMASS ASSESSMENT RECORDS Firstly we start with the identifying information (Sex /ID /Color/Date of Birth) for each alpaca. Next to the color we have a column for “new color” since the shade of fleeces may change slightly with age. Another column is for noting any inconsistent color markings found in the fleece. (S) Solid (SP) Spot (ID) Indefinite blend of colors. We also note where the spots are located on the fleece. Then, we evaluate the characteristics of the fleece. Grade-Micron / Curvature / Luster / Staple Length / Fleece Weight. After establishing these elements, we evaluate the all important element of overall FINENESS. ROYAL 1 =13-16 / BABY 2 = 17-19 / FINE 3 =2023 / STRONG 4 =24-25 / COARSE 5 =26- 30) Now that the majority of our herd is testing in the in the 1- 3 (Royal, Baby, Fine) grade, we have also started recording the actual estimated average micron and curvature rating of each fleece.
GRADE - MICRON
Grade - Micron is determined by looking at the grid samples and making a quick visual and tactile micron Merino Rambouillet Colored Merino Colored Co assessment. This evaluation is later compared to our Top Sheep breeds – Bottom Row progressive Snowmass a gridRow samples tested by Yocom-McColl. After many years of practice, our estimates now tend to deviate only 1 micron, a few of curvature, lab results.fleece, with Weand want topoints emphasize that from eachthe particular
important as another, as is true with sheep breeds. Until w We also like to test some of our older alpacas with a Fimachine. have already weberLux should try to These realizealpacas the value withinbeen eachtested alpaca fleece t
by Yocom Mc Coll many times, so it’s an excellent opTheretoare hundreds sheeptesting breeds and they all ha portunity experiment withof different methods. The FiberLux scans small samples and gives an accurate The value in comparing the progressive breed of alpaca with micron reading, while it is not nearly as extensive as Yothecom-McColl’s similaritiesmultiple seen within Alpacas.it does provide measurements, a fast result. The FiberLux functions as a cheaper and The method following present somemiexamples of p quicker for comparisons shearing sheds to grade average cron for baling. We primarily use it to compare against according to fleece and body types. The most interesting c our hand evaluations (quick way to practice and refine),
The other interesting comparison of alpaca and sheep is
24 factor as wool in both breeds. Even though we do not spec TMOC-PART4CC.indd 24
in our alpaca outside of Peru, we have alpacas that have bee 8/22/17 1:27 PM
• •
•
•
• as well as to confirm the Yocom-McColl results further. It never hurts to have multiple confirmations.
THE NEXTRomney MEASUREMENTS WE ASSESS ANDLincoln Colored Corriedale Romney
wmass
RECORD ARE:
alpaca fleece types. • CURVATURE - relates to how the fiber will react in processing and end products. ece, with its unique characteristics, may We be have as economically • (CRIMP * CURVATURE) recently decided to simplify thisthat as a rating the s. Until we have true textile interests tell usof otherwise, estimated curvature number.
a fleece type.
In the past, we made comparisons to fiber breeds
hey all havewith very and specific values. set important scores of curvature but foundeconomic this to be more cumbersome than just listing the curvature rating. lpaca with established breeds of sheep is to reflect some of
For example, we use to describe characteristics as: • VICUNA - Low amplitude, fibers uniformcondensed withthat very have little stapling or mples of prominent lysheep breeds been developed locking. Fibers have the highest curve and eresting comparisonareishard seento within see withthe the fiber nakedtypes. eye. CURV 50-70.
d sheep is in body type. Meat has been as much an economic not specifically make selections for better meat production25 have been bred for this very purpose in our breeding herds. TMOC-PART4CC.indd 25
MERINO - Wide amplitude, but lower than Corriedale or Romney. Fibers form into small tight staples or bundles, CURV 40-60. CORRIEDALE - Wide amplitude, the horizontal crimp is deeper than the vertical. Higher crimp frequency than Romney and less than Merino. Fibers form into thicker staples or bundles than Merino. CURV 3550. ROMNEY - Moderate amplitude, though the horizontal crimp deeper than the vertical crimp (even more so than Corriedale). Crimp frequency is lower than Corriedale and Merino. Fibers form into broader staple bundles. CURV 30-40. LINCOLN - Widest amplitude with the lowest curve. Exhibits a very bold and wavy crimp with a long and thick staple. CURV 20-30. LUSTER (Brightness) - Light-reflective properties, scale structure, and curvature of fiber. Luster is crucial to the handle and overall appeal of an alpaca fleece. We grade Luster from on a 1-3 scale, with two extremes of designation (D) for Dull and (S) for Silky.
Most alpaca fiber is inherently soft and lustrous, but there are distinct levels of brightness between fleeces. The scale-height of alpaca fiber is about half that of other wools — .04 microns (alpaca) compared to .08 (wool). 1 = Exceptional - Mostly S (Silky) grade. 2 = Excellent - Usually, has high curvature. 3 = Good/Average Anything below this scale receives a D (Dull) grade.
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STAPLE LENGTH (SL) Measurement of the mid-side staple.
SKIRTED BLANKET WEIGHT (SBW) After the fleece skirting and grading, it is bagged and weighed.
NOTES Additional comments on each fleece as you have time during the shearing process.
DESIGNATION • • • • •
Keep a record of where you have designated the fleeces. SH (Show - sorted by color, sex, and age small labels on seam of bag) BL (Bale - sorted by micron and grade - labels large and visible on bag) C (Cull - significant physical defect found during shearing or fiber below standard) Alpaca names should be included on all the labels.
OUR GENERAL CULLING CRITERIA: • • •
Physical abnormalities (Bite, Testicles, Teats, Confirmation). Males with poor wool caps and long-muzzles (undesirable hybrid phenotypes). Very poor fleece scores.
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Yocom-McColl Testing: The method we find the most informative is the Optical Fiber Analyzer (OFDA 100). The OFDA 100 is an image analysis system recognized by IWTO (International Wool Textile Organization) and developed with the research support of multiple international organizations. Debuting in 1991, the OFDA has become a standard method of measuring fiber diameter distribution. OFDA 100 is useful for testing fiber at all stages of processing, from fleece to fabric. It is commonly used to measure a variety of fibers, including cashmere, mohair, alpaca and even some synthetic fibers. To obtain the OFDA 100 an electronic microscope sits above moving samples of fiber, capturing and recording images of the individual fibers. Then, using advanced computer imaging software identifies and precisely measures each fiber. The OFD 100 manufacturer claims that the test measures individual fibers to a resolution of 1-micron and calculates the combined mean diameter and standard deviation to a resolution of 0.01 micron. The OFDA 100 is also capable of measuring curvature â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an advantage over the Sirolan Laserscan. The OFDA 100 measures 2mm fiber snippets from a clean, scoured sample. Obtaining these samples requires the fiber to be cut using a knife or guillotine, and testing requires an environmentally controlled room to ensure that temperature and humidity are constant across specimens. OFDA 100â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s histogram data includes the mean fiber diameter, standard deviation (SD), the coefficient of variation (CV), prickle factor (PF) and spinning fineness. The OFDA 100 is of most use in commercial fiber operations since it can confirm the quality of graded bales of fiber, in turn providing an affirmation of value for both the buyer and seller.
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ALPACA FLEECE CHARACTERISTICS COLORS: GRADE: (Fineness) FLEECE CHARACTER TYPES: PERFORMANCE: Production of fiber, sale of fiber, textile production, Shows, Etc. What is it that makes Alpaca fiber so uniquely versatile among natural fibers? Under a microscope, the individual alpaca fiber reveals some secrets. This picture represents what one might see under magnification. A single alpaca fiber consists of outer “scales” lying against the fiber shaft. Several factors in this diagram affect the feel or “hand” of yarn made from this material. The diameter, measured in microns (1/1000mm) is the primary determinant. Alpaca fiber can range from as little as 13 microns to well over 30 microns. A study of alpaca fiber conducted in Australia determined that alpaca has a subjective softness at least 10 microns finer than that of sheep wool. Sheep wool is not considered “high quality” unless it is below 23 microns in diameter. This study suggests that alpaca fiber below 33 microns would have the same subjective feel.
The future By 2020, it is likely that the United States will be producing 2,500 tons of alpaca fiber a year. If South America production remains constant (which has been the case over the past 100 years), this will mean that the United States will be producing around 20-30% of the world’s supply. As leading US breeders, we firmly believe that our national industry needs to concentrate on the quality of our alpaca fleeces and take active steps to improve the collective quality of our alpaca herds. While all alpaca fiber has value, the grading system clearly defines a scale of value. Only those alpacas with the finest heritable traits will have competitive value in the global market.
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on becoming competitive as world suppliers. When we develop a robust commercial market for fiber and meat, as is commonplace in most livestock markets, we will find many farmers willing to purchase non-breeding alpacas as alternative livestock. Alpacas are very gentle on the environment and provide a sustainable supply of fiber and meat. As the global demand for alpaca continues to grow, this subsidiary market will also grow, facilitating the process of culling substandard alpacas from breeding focused herds. We are now seeing many astute breeding programs concentring on developing World Class Alpacas through proven genetic selections. These discerning alpaca programs attract clients from around the world seeking to advance the genetics in their own herds. These informed alpaca breeders keep us optimistic for the future, as they significantly contribute to making our nation a leader in the world industry. We continue to encourage anyone invested in the future of Alpaca to become actively involved manifesting this vision of our industry.
We at Snowmass Alpacas LLC are always available for information, support, and any alpaca related issues you may have.
To compete in the growing global market, we need to promote breeding incentives for national standards of fiber production. While it may be some time before our alpacas can produce Ultra Royal grade for more than a few years of growth, we can quickly take steps in the right direction with informed breeding selections. Alpaca fleeces under 16 micron are the clear choice for this goal. Some breeders may say this (Ultra Royal) is â&#x20AC;&#x153;too fineâ&#x20AC;? and will be problematic for US fiber processors. While this may be true for some mills, we should be more concerned about the bigger picture in global market demands. We can observe how in Peru the move to select for the finest alpaca fiber has created a market that is competing with vicuna and cashmere. Rather than putting limits on the potential of our breeding programs, we should be pushing to improve processing capability and
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All Things Alpaca
moves some impurities and some short or broken fibers.
(Collected from a variety of sources)
Comber - A machine used for the combing process in manufacturing.
A-Z FIBER AND TEXTILE TERMINOLOGY Absorbency - The propensity of material to take in and retain liquid, usually water. Acid Dye - A dye applied to fabric or fiber from an acid solution. Used on nylon, wool (animal protein fibers), silk, acrylic, and polypropylene â&#x20AC;&#x201D; also used in blends of these materials. It is reasonably colorfast to light and laundering. Animal Fibers - Natural protein based hair, fur, and cocoon materials harvested from animals for processing into fabrics. Typical animal fibers include wool (sheep), mohair, llama, alpaca, cashmere, camel, vicuna and silk. Bale - A bag, sack, square or oblong package containing compressed fiber. The sizes and weights of bales vary. Batt or Batting - Sheets or rolls of carded cotton, wool or other fiber mixtures used for stuffing, padding, quilting, felting and spinning. Beater - A toothed or spiked roll in an opening or cleaning machine used for processing fiber into yarn. Blend - Textiles that contain two or more varieties of fiber, or variants of the same fiber (i.e., different colors and grades of the same fiber). Blending - The process of mixing fibers taken from a variety of
Combing - The processing step after carding in worsted spinning. This process separates the long desirable fibers from the shorter stock (noils), removes almost all foreign matter, and arranges fibers in parallel order. Combed yarns are cleaner, finer, stronger, and more lustrous than carded yarns.
sources to produce a uniform result. Blowout Factor - The rapidity with which an animalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fiber diameter increases (thickens) with age. Bradford System - One of the three principal methods of spinning worsted yarn, in which longer fibers are utilized to produce very compact and sleek yarns.
Core Spinning - The yarn-spinning process whereby a filament (usually elastic under tension) is covered with a sheath of staple fibers to produce a stretchable yarn. The resultant yarn and fabric have the characteristics of the sheath fiber along with the advantage of stretch and recovery.
Breaking Length - A type of measurement for the tenacity (strength) of yarn. It is calcuated by the length of yarn required to produce its breaking load. Breaking Load - The load needed to rupture a fiber, yarn, or fabric in a tension test.
Consistency - The uniform distribution of fiber characteristics throughout the entire fleece and fiber locks.
Brushing - The finishing process for knit or woven fabrics using brushes and other abrading elements to raise a nap.
Core Sampling - The gathering of fiber specimens from fiber bales by inserting a hollow tube into the core of the package.
Card or Carder - A textile machine or hand implement that separates fibers, removes some vegetation, and spreads the fibers into a web for subsequent processing operations. The hand tool has iron teeth or wires and is used in pairs. It can also be used to raise the nap on fabric.
Core Yarn - A composite yarn made by winding one yarn around another giving the apparent characteristics of only the outermost layer. Cortical Cells - Spindle shaped cells forming the inside structure of a fiber.
Carding - The preliminary process in manufacturing spun yarn in which the fibers are separated, distributed, equalized and formed into a web. The web can be very thin or thick. This process re-
Crease Recovery - The ability of a creased or wrinkled fabric to recover its original shape over
time. Crease Retention - The ability of fabric to retain a pleat or fold. Crimp - The organized or uniform waviness in an individual lock of fiber. Crimp Recovery - The ability of yarn or fiber to return to its original crimped state after being released from a tensile force. Crinkle - The waviness of an individual fiber when separated from a lock. It is responsible for the fiber elasticity and is usually irregular. Cuticle - The outer layer of hard and flat fiber cells which do not fit together evenly and whose tips point away from the main fiber shaft. These cells form a serrated edge causing the fibers to grip together during processing. See also: Scales. Density - The number of hair follicles per square inch of skin. Direction of Twist (S-twist or Z-twist) - The direction the yarn naturally spins. To determine the direction of twist, hold the yarn in a vertical position and examine the spiral angle corresponding to the central segment of the letter S or Z ( \ or / ). When spinning, the wheel should rotate counter-clockwise for an S twist and clockwise for a Z twist. In South America, yarn that is spun with Z-twist is believed to be magic. Drafting - The process of drawing out a strand of material by pulling it apart. Commercially, the material passes between mechanical rollers; otherwise it is done by hand.
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Fleece - The entire coat sheared from an animal at one time. Follicle - The skin structure from which fiber (hair or wool) grows. Fulling - The finishing process in which woven or knitted fabric is subject to moisture, heat, and friction, causing it to shrink and become more rigid. In heavily fulled fabrics, both the weave and the yarn are obscured, giving it the appearance of felt. Dye - A colorant that becomes molecularly dispersed during application to fiber and exhibits some degree of permanence. There are many classes of dyes, including acid, disperse, reactive, and natural. Color sources classify into natural and synthetic types. Natural colorants derive from a wide variety of natural sources including berries, flowers, roots, bark and more. Synthetic dyes derive from chemically manufactured pigments.
washing, abrasion, and wet and dry pressing.
Dyeability - The capacity of fibers to accept and retain colorants.
Felting Property - The property of fibers interlocking to create felt. Felt results from the directional friction of scales (cuticles) on each fiberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface. Other factors involved are fiber structure, crimp, ease of deformation, and the ability to recover from deformation.
Dyebath - The solution (usually water) containing the dyes, dyeing assistants, and any other necessary ingredients. Dyeing - The process of applying a comparatively permanent color to fiber, yarn or fabric by immersing in a bath of dye.
Fulling Agent - A chemical, usually a surfactant, that acts as a lubricant during the fulling process.
Felting - An ancient technique that produces a non-woven sheet of matted material frequently made from wool, hair or fur (Felt). The process results in an entanglement of fibers by simultaneously applying heat, moisture, and pressure.
Grading - The classification of fiber according to a scale of characteristics. Guard Hair (Primary Fiber) - The long, stiff, usually coarse fiber which projects from the wooly undercoat of a mammalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pelt. Sometimes referred to as kemp (esp. when in a sheared fleece).
Feltability - The degree to which fibers will effectively consolidate through felting.
Exhaustion - The amount of dye taken from the dyebath by the fiber, yarn, or fabric.
Fiber - A unit of matter characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width. The fundamental component used in making textile yarns and fabrics.
Fast Color - A dye which is resistant to color-destroying agents, such as sunlight, perspiration,
Fiber Fineness - The mean fiber diameter, usually expressed in microns.
Hair Fiber - A specialty fiber obtained from an animal other than a sheep. It is usually from the goat and camel families (mohair, cashmere, angora, llama, alpaca, vicuna and guanaco). These products, except angora, may be included in the term wool according to the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939. Hand or Handle - The tactile feel of fiber related to the combination of all the fiber characteristics. Handspun - Yarns which are spun by hand using a spinning wheel or electric spinner. Hank - a certain length of textile material that varies according
to the material. A hank of wool is 560 yards, cotton and silk are 840 yards, and linen is 300 yards. Identification Test - Any procedure for determining kinds of fibers, yarn construction, fabric construction, or finish and coloring of textiles. Physical, chemical, microscopic and other methods may be used. Impurity - Any unwanted, extraneous material present in a fleece or textile product. Kemp - A short, coarse wool or hair fiber with a large (>60% of fiber diameter) unevenly developed medulla that causes uneven dyeing. Keratin - A protein substance which is the chief component of wool fiber. Knitting - A method of constructing fabric by interlocking a series of loops of one or more yarns. Loom - A device or machine for weaving cloth. Luster - The light reflective quality of fiber exhibited in shine and gloss. Mean Fiber Diameter - The average diameter (thickness) of a group of fibers from an animal. Medulla - The hollow, rounded cells found along the center of the main axis of the fiber. They may run continuously along the length of the fiber. Medullated Fiber - A hair fiber that does not have the same spinning and dyeing properties of wool, alpaca, and llama.
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Medullated fibers are Kemp, typically described as fibers over 30 microns.
ing, drawing, perhaps combing, possibly roving, then twisting or spinning.
Micron - A unit of measurement used in assessing the diameter of a fiber which equals 1/25,000 of an inch.
Protein Fiber - A fiber composed of protein, including naturally occurring animal fibers such as wool, silk, alpaca, llama and others.
Natural Dye - Dye obtained from substances such as roots, bark, wood, berries, lichens, insects, shellfish and flowers. Natural Fiber - Fiber derived from animal, vegetable or mineral sources, as opposed to those regenerated or synthesized from chemicals. Nep - A small knot of tangled fibers, usually consisting of short, dead or immature fiber.
Rejects - Fiber that is unacceptable because of poor color, tenderness, seeds, burrs, stains, lumps and tufts. Resilience - The ability to recover to an original shape and size after the removal of a deforming strain (springing back to its original state after being crushed or wrinkled). Resilience is also referred to as memory.
Noil - Short fibers removed during the combing process of yarn-making.
Roving - A loose assemblage of fibers drawn or rubbed into a single strand, usually thicker than a sliver.
Picker - A piece of equipment that opens fiber and removes foreign matter.
Sample - A small portion of a larger amount of material taken for testing.
Picking - The process of opening fiber and removing foreign matter.
Scales (Cuticle) - The outer layer of cells on a mammal hair fiber. These cells are hard, flat, and do not fit together evenly causing their surfaces to overlap and enclose the cortex. The size and shape of these cells vary from species to species and are an important characteristic used in fiber identification. The exposed edges of scales point towards the tip of the fiber shaft and are the cause of the friction effect allowing for felting.
Pin-drafting - A system of drafting in which the fibers are oriented relative to one another by rolls of pins between the drafting rolls. Primarily used for long fibers in the semi-worsted and worsted spinning systems. Ply - To twist together two or more single yarns to form another yarn or cord. One of any number of single yarns twisted together to form a yarn. Production Sequence - Shearing, sorting, opening, cleaning, card-
with chemicals. Second Cut - Short pieces in a fleece usually caused by unskilled shearing. Second cuts occur when an area of the fleeced has not been fully shorn and must be removed in a second pass. Seconds cuts diminish the value of a fleece harvest. Semi-worsted Spinning- A spinning system, similar to the worsted spinning system, which does not utilize a combing process. Semi-worsted Yarn - Yarn spun from sliver carded (not combed) fiber that has been pin-drafted on worsted spinning machines.
Scouring - Cleaning raw wool or fiber and removing such impurities as dirt, sweat, and grease by washing with soaps and alkalis or
Shearing - Cutting the fleece from an animal with electric or hand shears.
Shrinkage - A reduction in length or width of a material caused by certain treatments, especially washing. A loss of wool weight and volume occurs when scouring due to the removal of grease, sweat, and foreign matter. Skirting - Selectively removing stained, unusable, or undesirable portions of fleece. Sorting - Separating a fleece or fiber into groups of comparable character and quality. The grading of fiber. Spinning - The final step in the production of yarn. The twisting of the sliver or roving. The yarn making process. Standard Deviation (SD) - The amount of variation from the
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mean (average) within a single data set. The greater the standard deviation, the greater the range (difference between the highest and lowest values) within the sample. Staple - A synonym for fiber. A lock or tuft of wool. Staple Length - The length of shorn locks measured by the natural staple without stretching or disturbing the crimp. The ammount of fiber re-growth or regeneration from one shearing to the next. S-twist - see Direction of Twist. Style - The combination of crimp and crinkle — ranging from good crimp and crinkle to no crimp and crinkle. Synthetic Dye - A complex colorant derived from petroleum by-products and earth minerals. Tags - Broken or dung-covered wool and other wastes swept from the floor of shearing areas. Tender Wool - A wool staple with weak segments in the fibers. It can be carded but not combed. This weakness is often caused by illness, excessive exposure to extreme weather and or poor nutrition. Tensile Strength - The amount of tension a fiber can withstand before it stretches to a breaking point. Textile - A broad classification of materials utilized in constructing fabrics including the fabrics made with those materials. Texture - The surface effect of
cloth or fiber as dull, lustrous, wooly, stiff, soft, fine, coarse, open or closely woven, also known as “the hand” or feel.
fibers of alpaca, llama, vicuna, and guanaco. The undercoat of mammals other than the sheep, goat or camel families is referred to as fur.
Tippy Wool - Badly weathered ends of fleece, usually containing a considerable amount of grease, dirt and other debris. These tips dye differently from the rest of the fleece.
Woolen - Describes yarn made using the woolen spinning system. Woolen Spinning System - In this system, carding takes place two or three times and then goes directly to the spinning process without combing. Wool used for this system is generally shorter, having more crimp and felting qualities. With this system, it is possible to use wools of different types, lengths and character together in blends.
Top - A strand of longer fibers straightened in parallel order and separated from the shorter fibers by combing. Top Sample - A sample of top fiber. Total Fleece Weight - The weight of the entire raw fleece.
Worsted - A yarn that has been made using the worsted spinning system.
Twist - The number of turns around its axis per unit of length observed in a yarn or other textile strand. Twist usually indicated as turns per inch (TPI).
Worsted Spinning System - A system of yarn production designed for medium or longer wools and fibers. The suitable
Virgin Fiber - According to the Federal Trade Commission, wool which has not been processed in any way, shape or form. Hair and other specialty fibers are classed as wool measured by the Federal Trade Commission. This term is a common misnomer when used in advertising or on labels.
fiber lengths vary from 2.5 to 7 inches. The process includes, opening, blending, cleaning and carding, followed by combing, drawing and spinning. These yarns are compact, smooth, more even and stronger than yarns spun using the woolen system. Yarn - A continuous strand of textile fibers that may be composed of endless filaments or shorter fibers twisted or held together. Yarns are utilized in making fabric. Yield - The quantity of clean wool obtained from a specified amount of grease wool. The amount of usable fiber after the processes of washing, drying, and removing guard hairs. Yolk - A colorless natural impurity consisting of grease and sweat. Z-twist - See direction of twist.
Weaving - Making cloth by interlacing yarns at right angles according to a pre-determined pattern. Wool - Traditionally, the fibers covering the skin of a sheep. According to the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, the term includes the fleece of a sheep, angora goat, undercoat of a cashmere goat, and specialty
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Nepal Project
Sumptuous Fiber – Extraordinary Rewards!
S
rugs for use in their homes as bed sets; as saddle blankets for horses; carpets for prayer halls, huge pillar covers and wall hangings in the monasteries, etc. Thus, rugs have formed an integral part in the lives of Tibetans as they endure harsh weather conditions in the vast and high plateau of Tibet. Snowmass Alpacas formed a partnership with Kumari Rugs After the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1959, hundreds of and Tapestries in the first production line of Nepalese and Tithousands of Tibetans escaped and took refuge in parts of India betan, alpaca hand-knotted rugs and tapestries. The journey be- and Nepal. Gradually, they settled and formed communities all gan with a load of 24 precious Snowmass bales weighing 6,480 across the region; with their propensity for trade and their amipounds being shipped from Sandpoint, Idaho, USA to Nepal. able nature, they blended in cordially with the native inhabitants The bales were loaded onto a truck container and then of Nepal and India. Pretty soon, bustling bazaars and lively neighsealed at the Snowmass Alpaca Ranch, Sandpoint, Idaho in the borhoods began springing up with the distinct flair of Tibetan fall of 2012. hospitality and cultural identity. Under the leadership of their They were then transported by truck container to Los charismatic and revered leader, the Dalai Lama, the Tibetan refAngeles. When they arrived in Los Angeles, the container was ugees extended their culture and tradition into a means of liveliloaded in a shipping vessel and was transported across the hood with professions Pacific Ocean to the port of Singapore. Advantages of Tibetan Hand-knotted Rugs ranging from sculpting and Tapestries from Nepal After the container arrived in Singapore, the vessel was and architecture to • Made with natural fibers further transferred to the port of Kolkata, India by sea. painting and weaving. • The entire process is completed by hand After it arrived in Kolkata, India, and cleared Indian Among these, the art with each knot tied customs, the bales were transferred by rail to Birgunj, Nepal. of rug weaving proved • Can serve as a great insulator and noise After clearing Nepalese customs, the bales were loaded into a reducer beneficial for many • Repels dirt and is easy to clean truck and transferred to Kathmandu, Nepal. Tibetans who were • Hand-knotted rugs and tapestries are The fiber then arrived in Kirtipur, a suburb of the capital like pieces of art that you can pass on city of Kathmandu and a historic, ethnic Newar community.
After a long journey from the bailing room of Snowmass Alpacas in Sandpoint to the high Himalayas of Nepal, our first hand-knotted sample rugs made exclusively from Snowmass Alpaca fiber have arrived. They are everything we expected and more. This is the first time that the Nepalese people have ever worked with alpaca. This is a historic moment for “alpaca” and the beginning of a wonderful relationship. Please read more below to get the full story on the process of making these beautiful handmade rugs. If you are interested in prices and ordering one of the treasured, collectible Snowmass-Kumari Alpaca wool rugs please e-mail us info@ snowmassalpacas.com.
Snowmass Alpacas partners with Kumari Rugs
About Snowmass and Kumari Rugs and Tapestries These spectacular alpaca rugs and tapestries are handmade in Nepal by Nepalese and Tibetan artisans. This is the first time Tibetan-style rugs and tapestries have been introduced in alpaca fibers. For many centuries, Tibetans have been weaving
to the next generation • Each hand-knotted rug and tapestry is unique – a one of a kind • Unlike machine-made rugs and tapestries, hand-knotted products provide great value and will last a lifetime as heirloom pieces • Each handmade rug and tapestry has a story
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skilled and well-versed in that area of trade. Thus, Himalayan rugs were introduced to Nepal. The first Tibetan settlers started selling their rugs, either antique or otherwise, to curious tourists. While earning their livelihood with different art skills in a new land, these hard-working Tibetan refugees received the support of the Swiss government to begin a cottage industry in rug weaving in the early 1960s. The intent was to sell rugs to the growing tourist trade in Nepal. The rugs produced were hand carded, hand spun and hand trimmed using only traditional designs in smaller sizes. This process of rug making still continues today in Nepal. In the late 1970s, German rug dealers came to Nepal and began purchasing rugs in larger sizes and in volume. Subsequently, the German market became the hub of distribution for unique Tibetan rugs throughout Europe. Due to the high demand of European buyers in the mid1980s, Tibetan rug production in Nepal became the nation’s second-largest industry. Later, leading U.S. importers began to buy Tibetan rugs made in Nepal, with specific design and colors for the U.S. market. The rug industry in Nepal has come a long ways from its early days of small bazaar sales to the large-scale, industrial production of today. At present, Tibetan rugs have become a leading commodity within the handmade, floor-covering market in both Europe and the United States; it still continues to grow with fame and popularity in other parts of the world. We at Snowmass Alpacas are excited and proud to be the first to introduce alpaca fibers to the people of Nepal and Tibet for their craft. Ultimately, this partnership will send a long-lasting message to the world through the beautiful pieces these artisans will create. Please stay tuned for updates on the progress of the Snowmass/Kumari project.
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ULTRA ROYAL
S
SNOWMASS A LPA C A S
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Snowmass Alpacas “the vanguard of fineness”
All Snowmass alpacas are selectively bred & registered with Alpaca Owners Association and further DNA certified with leading Camelid Research Program, Camelid Identification System (CIS). Raised with love and care on the finest pastures in northern Idaho. PURITY ~ LUXURY ~ ELEGANCE the nature of SNOWMASS ALPACA
www.snowmassinternational.com www.snowmassalpacas.com
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Snowmass Alpacas Genetic Breeding Center
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Dedicated to the �ture of Alpacas
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www.snowmassalpacas.com
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