app et ite the bu z z
ON THE MENU
Suited to a tea
Asia’s interest in tea waxes and wanes, but the latest revival has reinstated the humble cuppa’s fashion status, says Kerry Heaney
H
igh tea is on the up
served with crackers with XO
again in Asia.
chilli sambal. It also includes
It took a Californian to put a
black sesame chiffon cake and coconut gelée, and green tea
a course with beef Wellington
Japanese twist on high tea at
scones and red bean paste with
followed by homemade
Sakesan, the newest Robatayaki
your choice of Japanese teas.
phenomenon seldom goes out
scones, sandwiches, bite-sized
bar in Hong Kong’s Soho area.
of style, venues are finding new
savouries and pastries.
Head Pastry Chef Tracy Wei
Deluxe at Hong Kong’s The
While this curious cultural
Chef Gray Kunz of Café Gray
and innovative ways to serve a
“Afternoon tea can
creates her own desserts using
Upper House says new high-tea
cuppa, three tiers of food and
be a holistic experience
offbeat ingredients. Offerings
trends include regional focuses
in the process, capture a niche
encompassing not only
include fried, kuromitsu custard-
and a back-to-basics approach.
market and increase patronage.
the culinary, the execution,
filled sata andagi (Japanese
“All our herbs are from an
appearance, balance of flavours
doughnuts), strawberry red
organic farm on Lantau Island,”
16, F&B director Byron Wright
and chinaware, but also the
bean kanten, frozen lemongrass
he says. “Not only can we
says that although high tea has
warmth of service, surroundings
mousse, mango and shichimi,
maintain better quality control
At the Sofitel Macau at Ponte
20
and ambience,” he says.
over the ingredients, it also
remained popular since the hotel opened in 2008, it really
HIGH TEA HISTORY
launch of a chic new tea ritual.
helps the environment.” There’s an added touch of
took off in May last year with the The 7th Duchess of Bedford, Anna Russell is credited
olfactory comfort at Singapore’s
with inventing afternoon tea. She had cakes, tarts and
Ritz-Carlton Millenia in the form
has come from the influence of
other niceties brought to her boudoir to keep hunger
of Jo Malone scented candles.
US fast food companies that
at bay until dinner was served at about 9pm. Others
On offer are treats such as a
have started to educate the
followed suit and by 1865 it had become a fashionable
mint chocolate dome and assam
Asian palate to accept and enjoy
form of entertaining, where ladies met and discussed
grapefruit macarons, specially
sweeter refined pastries,” he
“tea business”. In the Victorian era, afternoon tea was
created to complement Jo
says. “Put this together with
a ritual where being seen to have the right tea set and
Malone’s Limited Edition Tea
the Asian love for reunions
social circle was as important as the tea itself.
Fragrance Blends.
“I think a lot of the popularity
While some high teas lead the
and gatherings and you have a
pack through innovation, others
perfect marriage of food and cultural values.” The hotel’s Rendezvous Lounge Bar high tea
FIND IT:
outlet’s total revenue. Executive Chef Arnaud Thulliez of The Ritz-Carlton Millenia was the first in Singapore to introduce an eight-course afternoon tea in response to feedback from guests who wanted an indulgent, enhanced culinary experience. His Chihuly Lounge afternoon tea starts with a tea mocktail
Lounge at Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental, with its colonial charm
has become so successful that it now commands 40% of the
never change. The Authors’
● Rendezvous Lounge Bar, Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16, tel: +853 8861 0016, www. sofitel.com ● Chihuly Lounge, The Ritz-Carlton Millenia, Singapore, tel: +65 6337 8888, www.ritzcarlton.com ● Sakesan, Hong Kong, tel: +852 2525 1660, www.cafedecogroup.com ● Café Gray Deluxe, The Upper House, Hong Kong, tel: +852 3968 1106, www.upperhouse.com ● Authors’ Lounge, Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, tel: +66 (0)2 659 9000, www.mandarinoriental.com ● Tiffin Room, Raffles Hotel, Singapore, tel: +65 6337 1886, www.raffles.com
and white rattan furniture, has been serving a traditional English afternoon tea with scones, finger sandwiches and cakes for 120 years. Banking on its Old World charm, the Raffles Hotel’s Tiffin Room serves Singapore’s bestknown high tea, featuring a mix of finger sandwiches, freshly baked pastries and scones with jam and cream.
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10/5/11 4:45 PM