Inspired d o o by F Trends and communication
Ketchum’s Tasting Notes
No. 2 / 2015
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Editorial Food is a global language. It is one we all immediately understand, share and cultivate daily. Whatever our cultural differences are, our food culture is more blended than ever before: weaving heritage, local resources, unique experiences and artistic creativity into one beautiful palette of colours and flavours. Today, our shared loves and passions are being tested by environmental pressures, resource limitations, new technologies and rising pressures for food and the food industry to exceed myriad social and human health expectations. This edition of our Ketchum Food Magazine captures snapshots from the dynamic world of food production and marketing today. Country to country, our colleagues are taking clients to new frontiers; opening new markets; breaking through the noise to connect to key audiences around the world. We welcome you to sit back and sample the trends and insights we see emerging in the world of food. Bon appĂŠtit!
Linda Eatherton Partner, Managing Director of Ketchum Global Food & Beverage Practice
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In this issue
Linda Eatherton from Ketchum’s Global Food & Beverage Practice explains how food companies build up trust with consumers.
Interview with Jan Spielhagen, Editorial Director for Food and Editor-in-Chief of essen & trinken and BEEF!, about the future of food magazines.
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6 Ever wondered how companies should deal with food waste solutions? These examples from the Netherlands explain it.
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Ketchum’s Tasting Notes: In this issue Communication and content
Sustainability: the food movement
Experts from PR & Media talk about changes in food
Is there a growing consciousness about food? A view on the
communication, from information overload to visual content.
food sharing trend from three different countries.
Food marketer: how much information is too much? Food blogger: I´m not a marketing channel. Food editor: because food is love. Food photography: the power of images.
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The Netherlands: no more food to waste. Portugal: Portuguese people eat ‘ugly fruit’. Germany: sharing is caring – the food sharing trend.
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In this issue
Lucas Mohr from Ketchum Pleon Berlin wonders what happens when food meets technology.
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Maria Losyukova from Ketchum Moscow on how foodies get creative during the embargo.
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Milan, Madrid, Munich or London: our best places for food lovers.
30 Food snippets What drives the food industry? A closer look at political debates,
The food evolution
events, hidden champions and some very personal hotspots.
Trends in food, retail and gastronomy. From 3-D printing to tapas trends in Spain.
Europe: the low sugar or no sugar debate.
Why 3-D printers are revolutionising the way we eat. ’Tante Emma‘ goes digital. Retail close-up. Future: children’s nutrition is going to be digital. Tasty: new concepts of gastronomy in Madrid. Tapas 2020: the current trends in Spanish food.
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Politics: how Russian foodies are handling the embargo. Insight: the hidden champions of french wines. Trend: Japanese whisky on the rise. News: Ketchum’s food studio. Event: Expo Milano – the place to be for food lovers. Hotspots: our food teams introduce their favourite places.
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the transparency paradox To create a path of trust, how much information is too much information? Linda Eatherton, Partner and Managing Director of Global Practices Development and Director of Ketchum Global Food & Beverage Practice, explains how food companies build up trust with consumers.
The food industry is, more than any other consumer sector, built mole-
Food eVangelists – small group, big influence and growing!
cule by molecule on trust, and the harder it is for consumers to get and
Distrust of the food industry has resulted in the creation of an unofficial
understand the information they want, the less likely they are to trust it.
but influential group of consumer advocates who are passionately driv-
That, in a nutshell, is food’s dilemma. Consumers around the world
ing the movement to challenge and change the industry. In fact, a global
want a new relationship with food. They want to know what’s in
Ketchum study, Ketchum Food 2020: Consumer as CEO, identified the
their food, how it gets there, how the people who make it are
Food eVangelists in 2013 and 2015 data now indicates this group is
treated and how food companies behave in nature and in the com-
actually growing in size. This may signal that their attitudes and beliefs
munity. Every ingredient and process used to make foods and bev-
will become the new standard for all consumers in a few short years!
erages – whether industry standard products, natural, organic, artificial, synthetic or GMO – is being questioned by consumers. But
Food eVangelists are self-appointed agents of change, who believe it
the answers they get are often confusing, contradictory and some-
is their purpose to investigate, report and lead others to a point of
times incomprehensible. If food companies are going to create and
view or different behaviour. These are not fringe detractors who can
embrace a new relationship with consumers and if they are to build
be ignored. Nor can they be easily persuaded or satisfied. But many
up trust, they must figure out how to make sense of it all in a way that
of them are moveable if we respect their concerns about food and
first acknowledges consumer concerns and provides credible infor-
converse with them as partners and stakeholders, rather than target-
mation that is understandable for an average person. It is up to the
ing them as an audience to be marketed to or neutralised.
industry to adjust the way it communicates to this new reality because it is the food industry that will bear the consequences of failing to adapt.
The path to trust How, then, do you build up and sustain trust? The answer is the same way as always. Trust is the alignment of actions and words. I trust you
Insights
when you do what you say you will. To be trusted, you have to behave
1. Providing data and scientific information is not the same as provid-
in a trustworthy manner.
ing understanding. 2. When there are gaps in understanding, consumers create their own narrative based on their personal, social and cultural beliefs. 3. Consumers have a predisposition to distrust big industry and science for hire.
Trust is a house built one brick at a time, transaction by transaction. It is built by being open, honest and accessible – by doing what you say and by saying what you do. Perhaps most importantly, it is built by listening and hearing. A consumer who is trying to express a concern or fear is not
4. People can’t hear your logical explanation until you have respectfully
going to be able to listen to someone telling them they are wrong until
acknowledged their emotions (fear, anger, disappointment, etc.).
they believe their concern or fear has truly been heard and understood.
5. Calls for transparency are a message from consumers begging for
But a remarkable thing happens to people when they feel they have
reasons to trust your brand or company. Seize the opportunity.
been heard and understood. They become able and willing to listen.
6. Tell, don’t sell.
As we have seen with our Food eVangelists, they are open to new
The transparency paradox
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information and understanding. And they are willing to change their
cific recommendations for food companies to apply in order to
perceptions and opinions when they are treated seriously and their
build up trust with consumers:
concerns are effectively addressed. Use plain, clear language: Marketing and technical jargon, hyperThe issue then becomes how you communicate the science and
bole, incomprehensible and opaque language promote confusion
technology in your food and processes in a way that is understanda-
and mistrust. Scientific terms (extrusion), ingredient technologies
ble. It starts with a thoughtful, effective interpretation. Good com-
(flavour modulation, flavour enhancement), technical terms for
munication is crafted for the benefit of the receiver, and that takes a
ingredients (carrageenan, acesulfame K) and regulatory concepts
little effort. It means focusing on benefits rather than features – on
and terms mean little or nothing to consumers, and without
things people value rather than complex scientific facts. When you
explanation they raise the question: what are they hiding?
have established the benefits, then you can use the science as needed in a supporting role. Here’s an example of the what, the why
Oddly, we have historically responded to these concerns with more
and the how.
science, facts and scientists. It’s as if we’re trying to be understood in a foreign language by speaking louder. It’s still a foreign language.
WHAT: Stating that carrageenans are a family of linear sulphated pol-
With food, the effect is often the opposite. Our jargon is a barrier, and
ysaccharides used for their stabilising properties is probably less
the higher the barrier to understanding, the harder it is to trust.
accessible than saying “carrageenans made from edible seaweed are added to some foods to give them a consistent, smooth texture”.
The right information for the right audience: Provide segment and layer content to make highly technical language and information
WHY: Having said that, a brand would still need to be ready to
available to those who need it and use it. Place the content in
acknowledge fears about carrageenan use. Where the conversation
forms, formats and locations that wouldn’t be a first choice for
gets much stickier is where the science and technology used in pro-
consumers but can be found by technical experts.
cessing has little or no consumer benefit, but is rather for the convenience of the manufacturer. If, however, that convenience creates a
Explain: When you must use technical or scientific terms and
cost benefit for the consumer, that is a legitimate part of the conver-
concepts in public-facing content, take the time and effort to pro-
sation.
vide a brief explanation using simple, common terms.
HOW: But where a desirable consumer benefit is hard to show,
Test: Test all messages and phrases; don’t assume they will or
there is a second level of adaptation that the food industry is going
are being understood.
to have to make. Consumers can understand and even accept what they see as shortcomings if they believe in a food company’s
Use dial testing methodologies and facilitated focus groups to get a
intent. The critical concern is less about what ingredient you used,
true read on words and phrases that are lightning rods. Asking people
how it was harvested or how you treated people and more about
to select words and phrases in print that they like, understand or
what you did when you knew your products or behaviour fell short
prefer can create very misleading results. You may have preferences
of today’s expectations.
among words you have provided or like but readers may not appreciate or understand any of it.
That means making a credible commitment to honestly answering consumer questions and, if necessary, changing ingredients,
Communication is something everyone thinks they are good at. In
behaviour and policies so that consumers can be satisfied on all
fact, there is an art and science to it. Effective communication
levels when they choose a product. In some cases, that is going to
takes time, effort, skill and commitment, but the return on invest-
mean creating a road map to show how you are going to move
ment is trust, and that is something no food company can succeed
products to simpler ingredients that are sourced sustainably and
without. //
ethically; a timeline for looking closely at every ingredient in every product and every description of those ingredients. Within reason, it is acceptable that it will take time and even that there may be missteps along the way, because we are organisations of people. But the motive must be clear, namely that food companies know they can’t expect trust without listening to, hearing and responding to consumers. And they must know that without trust they have no sustainable business. Here are some spe-
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I’m a food blogger, not a marketing channel An interview with Austrian food blogger Roman Sindelar, conducted by Pepita Adelmann, Ketchum Publico Vienna.
Creative pinboards that shine a colourful and aesthetic light on lov-
person behind the blog and their personal commitment and devo-
ingly prepared dishes, and mouth-watering content that pleases the
tion; while the lines between online media and blogs are blurring,
eye and triggers an immediate urge to start cooking. This is the sub-
the very clear line between media and blogger relations must be
ject matter of food blogs, which is a truly delicious business – in
taken into account.
every sense and for all the senses. Roman Sindelar was one of Austria’s first food bloggers and his kitchBehind successful food blogs, there are highly motivated individuals
n-blog, which boasts a variety of recipes, product and store reviews,
who enjoy sharing their favourite recipes, recent grocery finds and
techniques and plenty of other foodie content, won the Austrian Food
creatively staged dishes. They neatly curate content for a food-savvy
Blogger Award in 2013. Ketchum Vienna’s Pepita Adelmann, Senior
community and become their readers’ medium of choice. Food blog-
Consultant and part of Ketchum European Food Practice, asked
gers are the culinary art journalists of our time – but are they always
Roman to share his recipe for successful blogger relations.
treated as such? How do you feel about requests from corporations or brands Maintaining a successful blog takes time, effort and passion. This is
that want to cooperate with you?
true for both types of bloggers – the ones that (want to) blog for a
Roman: I receive such requests on a regular basis and read through
living and also the self-expressionists. A successful blog takes a lot
all of them. The problem is that few brands really know how to com-
of time and effort – facts not widely appreciated by companies when
municate with bloggers, which is why I only reply to a selected few.
they approach bloggers with cooperation requests. When paired
The fact is that there are different types of bloggers: you have very
with inappropriate and unprofessional correspondence, the result is
young bloggers on the one hand, who will accept almost any coop-
often – understandably – the opposite of the desired outcome.
eration and are satisfied if they receive a free kitchen appliance or an invitation in return. On the other hand, you have those whose blog is
Brands want to be where their target groups will notice them, which
their private interest, their passion – and maybe they don’t want to
is why food blogs are at the top of our food clients’ minds when it
earn money at all. The latter sometimes have stronger communities,
comes to picking the right outlets. But what is often forgotten is the
as they are not perceived as promotional and are therefore seen as
A talk with … Austrian Food Blogger Roman Sindelar
being more authentic. Blogs that have these attributes, must be
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Check out Roman Sindelar’s blog www.simply4friends.at or enjoy some of his favourites on Instagram @romansindelar.
approached in a very different way, since we are not looking for promotional content. If you are to take a request seriously, where is it likely to come from? If a request comes via an agency that has experience with bloggers, it is definitely an advantage, because they know how to communicate effectively. They receive constant feedback from bloggers, which they can learn from and use for relationship building and further cooperation. Agencies can often propose the best course of action and the right blogger for the brand as well. Generally, I would say that getting into contact through an agency demonstrates a professional approach. Is it helpful if the idea for the cooperation is clearly illustrated?
and most brands lack stories. A product is not a story. If, on the other
Or do bloggers prefer to look at the brand and decide what to
hand, I get invited to a distillery and have the chance to speak with
do with it themselves?
the master brewer, I have a story to tell. My audience benefits from
Many blogs, especially the more authentic ones, don’t see them-
it and the product is still in focus – it’s a win-win situation.
selves as marketing tools for anyone. They have a very different attitude towards brands, which needs to be respected. That is why the
Would you say that most young bloggers starting nowadays
choice of blog must be made clear and the feeling that the proposed
primarily want to be approached by brands to earn money?
content is tailored to it has to be conveyed. Personally, I find it very
In larger markets, this is definitely the case, but in smaller markets,
interesting that some companies believe that just because they offer
people often don’t dare to think that way, even if they might ideally want
a product or possibly even pay a certain amount, they can ask for a
to. A blog entails an immense amount of work, effort and self-dis-
trade-off or a kind of service in return. This may be possible with
cipline. Essentially, the psyche of a blogger contains two main sources
younger bloggers, but not with experienced ones, as these hold on
of motivation, one being the wish to live off the profession, turning a
to the right of a final decision on whether they will write about a
hobby into a career, and the second being a type of self-expression,
product or not. You could compare this to a press event: you invite
otherwise there would not be a need to share content publicly.
press representatives, but you never have a guarantee that they will write something at all, let alone about what they will actually write.
New food blogs are popping up everywhere, not just in Austria.
It is, of course, possible to enter into a clearly defined cooperation
What do you think about this rapid development?
from the beginning. Brands need to ask themselves whether this is
I think it is a very positive development as it increases the diversity
beneficial, though, because the intention behind being written about
of opinion within a country. Being able to inform yourself not only
in a blog is the authenticity of the blogger – not just paid content like
through magazines or journals but also to have private opinions,
an ad in a magazine.
which sometimes also influence media, is important. When I inform myself about a topic, I will look not only at product and company
So what does it take to spark your interest and for you to consi-
websites but also at what people in private blogs say. I prefer to
der a request more closely?
inform myself via blogs, because I have the feeling that they are not
It must suit my blog, my audience and my attitude. Anything that I
marketing machines and that their content is hand-picked by a blog-
don’t find suitable I won’t accept, as it would question my blogging
ger I can identify myself with. //
authenticity and readers would see through that right away. In a best-case scenario, the brand first analyses a blog and identifies how the blogger is aligned. Then they can approach the blogger individually according to the blog’s content and clarify the assumed connection between their brand and the blog. Many believe that blogger relations are a one-time contact. But in reality, they are – as the name suggests – a relationship. A brand that does not seem likeable to a blogger at first may still turn out to be quite congenial later if the people behind it lead the blogger to the brand. Bloggers love stories
7 TIPS FOR PROFESSIONAL BLOGGER RELATIONS
Address bloggers online as you would if you had met them on the street
Explain why you chose their blog Pitch a story, not a product Customise the story to the respective blog Pitch the story context as you would to media Stay in touch after the cooperation Cultivate the relationship
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“Food titles face incredibly fierce competition. If they don’t keep coming up with something better, they end up falling by the wayside.” Jan Spielhagen
Because food is love An interview with Jan Spielhagen, Editorial Director Food and Editor-in-Chief of essen & trinken and BEEF!, Gruner + Jahr GmbH & Co KG, conducted by Natalie Haut, Managing Partner at Ketchum Pleon Frankfurt.
Mr Spielhagen, by launching BEEF!, you have brought out a
the bin – that’s in our minds when we’re producing it. We want to
food magazine aimed at men. Lots of men – and women – who
create something unique and exclusive that makes people think
tend to consume online media love the print magazine. What do
twice about whether to throw it away, even if it’s two years old. And
you attribute the huge success of BEEF! to?
we know that readers are obsessive about collecting the magazine
First and foremost, the fact that we use and play to print’s strengths
– I get lots of emails from readers with photos showing all 27 issues
with BEEF!. If you put a lot of effort into photos and think really care-
lined up in stunning kitchens. If you’re looking for issue three and
fully about what the paper should be like so that it’s not too smooth-
you search for the title ‘Richtig räuchern’ (Perfect smoking) on eBay,
coated and it doesn’t feel too much like a catalogue, and if you use
you’ll see that old copies cost up to 180 euros.
extra features like the centrefold or the two cover flaps which make the magazine more like a book, then suddenly you’ve got a premium
BEEF! isn’t the kind of magazine where readers immediately try
publication rather than a run-of-the-mill magazine. That has a totally
out every recipe at home. Instead, it’s like a coffee-table book
different, unique charm that you just can’t replicate online. The same
that people leaf through because they enjoy it. With Salon, you
thing wouldn’t work as an iPad app. You would never feel like you
have launched a very classy magazine with the same double
were picking up a high-quality paper product. That’s also the reason
gatefold which is also extremely high-end. The layout of the
why people who consume online content like BEEF! so much. Basi-
new essen & trinken magazine is stunning too. All three maga-
cally, we take the view that copies of BEEF! should never end up in
zines are upmarket, high-quality and a pleasure to read. What is
Because Food is Love
// 11
your recipe for ensuring that the magazines don’t cannibalise
who don’t want to keep cooking the same seven recipes, or for
one another?
when a son says: “Mum, can you make a different pasta bake for a
I think there are two answers to that question. The first answer is
change?” The readers are very often women who have a need that
that we want to tap into new target markets when we develop new
is satisfied by these magazines. Books are different again. Of the 50
magazine concepts, of course. BEEF! fills a new niche, and I hope
recipes in an issue of essen & trinken, readers try between five and
Salon does too. These are magazine concepts that don’t have any
eight at home, per month! On average, people only ever use two or
‘me too’ products. You could accuse Chefkoch magazine which I
three of the recipes in a cookbook. There are exceptions, of course
developed a year and a half ago of featuring recipes that you can find
– Jamie Oliver’s cookbooks are very successful, for example. But a
elsewhere any day. That’s true – they’re everyday recipes for women
‘normal’ cookbook like From India has pictures of hot food stalls in
who want to feed their family; women who enjoy cooking but have
India with spices you can’t buy readily but can do amazing things
to cook as well. That brings me onto the second part of the answer:
with – that’s more like taking a culinary journey than satisfying a
food titles face incredibly fierce competition. If they don’t keep com-
need for recipes. Why are people interested in recipe magazines,
ing up with something better, they end up falling by the wayside. On
cookery shows, books, the countless blogs, the websites – not for-
the one hand, we have to do something new to keep establishing
getting Chefkoch.de, another subsidiary of G+J with 300,000 reci-
new flagships in this market and as a show of strength. On the other
pes? Why do people need all that? Because food is love. Because
hand, however, we’re on the lookout for new target markets where
food is like a mother nursing her baby or a father spoon-feeding his
cannibalisation is very unlikely. Even if a BEEF! reader has always
child. Eating is an archaic, primeval experience. This satisfying feeling
read essen & trinken, these two magazines cater for such different
can be reproduced countless times – and the media we’ve talked
needs that they’ll keep reading both in the future. BEEF! plays a
about are a really good way to do that.
totally different role. It features a lot more escapism and a lot fewer recipes for everyday use or for entertaining and easy meals – things
‘Because food is love’ – I like that.
that essen & trinken focuses on. I don’t think that a reader would
It’s something I firmly believe. I’ve got children and the smell of
say: “Right, I’m not going to buy essen & trinken any more because
bolognese at home makes them happy. They come home from school,
BEEF! is a better magazine.” They’re so different that people read
smell it and smile at me – even if we’ve argued earlier in the day.
both. I can say that because I’m Editor-in-Chief of both these magazines. I act as Editorial Director for the other titles, so I don’t have
It’s the same for me. My husband cooks certain dishes for me if
the same close reader contact. I write the editorial for both maga-
he knows I’ve had a stressful day.
zines and of course I’ve started getting readers’ letters that say:
Then there’s food you eat when you’re ill. My mother always made
“Gosh, Mr Spielhagen, you’re a very busy man. You’re doing both
rice pudding and opened a tin of pears – that’s my sickbed food. And I
titles now – I’ve always read one of them.” That shows me that
firmly believe that rice pudding with tinned pears makes you better
they’re not cannibalising one another.
and that it’s synonymous with maternal love and warm-heartedness.
There’s an incredible number of cookery shows, and new cook-
As a global PR agency, we look at how various markets differ
books still keep coming out. Where does this huge demand for
– in terms of both the market for food and media use. Do you
well-made food magazines and cookbooks come from? If you look
monitor the European and international markets for food maga-
at the majority of people, there are those who read books and
zines? Do you get inspiration from other markets?
magazines, but there are also a lot of people who immerse them-
We watch the major international markets very closely. For instance,
selves in a different world, like with a coffee-table book.
we look at what’s happening in America. Take Kinfolk, for instance – a
Your comments are very perceptive and correspond to our experi-
magazine that also has a large online following. 150,000 Kinfolk-in-
ence too. The media you mentioned have very different target mar-
spired weddings are now held in the USA every year. Kinfolk is a food
kets and work in very different ways. For example, cookery shows
and design concept that is immensely popular but would be impossi-
on TV are a substitute for family meals. Cookery shows play a huge
ble to transfer to Germany. We keep very close tabs on America, the
role in households where the family no longer sits down at the table
UK and the Netherlands. The Dutch make fantastic magazines. Flow is
together after preparing a meal. A cookery show compensates for
one of the titles to come out of the Netherlands. We monitor Australia
this lack of family dining at home. People watch Steffen Henssler
too, and South Africa. But that’s it. There are some really great little pub-
cooking and feel like they’ve just spent an hour in the kitchen. These
lications – and some pretty bizarre ones. Basically though, the German
viewers very rarely look up the recipes. Something like essen &
market is one of the biggest and one of the best. Along with the Ameri-
trinken works in a very different way, providing recipes for every day
cans, the Brits, the Dutch and the Spaniards, we make the most exclu-
– 50 recipes a month – that have been tested by our essen & trinken
sive magazines. Our recipes are among the best, which is why we tend
team of cooks. They work, are affordable and use ingredients you
to license our brands in other countries rather than vice versa. For exam-
can buy at the supermarket. This magazine is designed for people
ple, BEEF is also available in France and Spain, a few other countries are
12 //
Interview with Jan Spielhagen
really keen to get their hands on it too. The food community is always
ing asparagus and strawberries. Whoever has the best picture wins. And
on the go. If you look at the readership of high-quality magazines and
if you decide that’s ridiculous and you won’t put asparagus or strawber-
their social data, you’ll see that they’re people who travel a great deal
ries on your cover, you’re bound to be one of the losers that month
and have seen a lot of the world. The range of international food mag-
because people want strawberries and asparagus so much that it hap-
azines you can find at major German airports is impressive. There’s
pens every year. We’re always accused of lacking originality with our cov-
Kinfolk and Cherry Bombe or JAN from the Netherlands, then there’s
ers, but the opposite is true: the readers are unimaginative. They have
Allrecipes from the USA, which is pretty much their equivalent of
clear expectations and when the first strawberries finally appear – even
Chefkoch magazine in Germany. Allrecipes.com is the world’s sec-
if they come from Argentina and cost 8 euros – they start feeling the pull
ond-largest recipe database, and Chefkoch.de is the third-biggest. If
and looking forward to the time when delicious German strawberries will
you compare these two magazines, you’ll see that in both cases, a
finally be available and cost just 2 euros for 500 grams. On that day, or a
user shares a recipe, then a team of writers tries it out and makes
week beforehand, you have to have your magazine on the newsagents’
some additions. The two concepts are pretty similar, but I think ours
shelves – with the right picture of strawberries on the cover.
looks a lot more modern. But to answer your question: yes, we monitor other markets closely. We study the book market in depth as well.
With Chefkoch.de, you’ve got a portal with an incredible num-
There’s always a limit to how much you can charge for a magazine; I
ber of recipes. You’re active online, but you’ve also got a lot of
don’t think there are any food magazines that cost more than BEEF!,
printed food publications in your portfolio. Do you think that the
but our target market is male too. Titles aimed at women that feature
growing number of serious, high-quality food bloggers poses a
nothing but food can’t really be priced over 6 euros. People won’t pay
risk for print magazines, or can you live happily side by side?
more. Salon contains much more than food, so it’s very expensive at
Yes, we can live very happily side by side and a Munich-based compet-
8.50 euros. As a book publisher, you can decide to make a 600-page
itor has just made the first print magazine about food bloggers. None
book and set aside 80 pages at the front for nothing but aesthetic
of us really knows yet how big blogging will become and whether it
pictures. Then, there will be pictures in there that a magazine editor
will outstrip magazines. There are bound to be bloggers who will have
would never print because they haven’t got 80 pages to spare at the
a large reach and there are big differences in quality among magazines
front – they’ve only got four, so they can only print two big photos. The
– and among bloggers too. Generally, magazines are made by journal-
editor won’t choose the off-the-wall pictures, but they might be trend-
ists and bloggers have found their way to this form of publishing for
setting pictures, which is why we keep a close eye on the book mar-
other reasons. I don’t know whether that’s an advantage or a disad-
ket. The television market is totally irrelevant for us. It caters for a
vantage, but it makes the two things very different. I think it’s about
completely different target market. None of my colleagues would go
coexisting and cooperating. We’re already seeing the first bloggers
to one of those shows voluntarily. Watching someone else cook is
making magazines and then you’ve suddenly got a brand – a food
totally different to cooking yourself.
brand – and it consists of a blog and a magazine. In the case of Chefkoch.de, you’ve got a brand made up of a community, online rec-
You run gorgeous photo features yourself and use aesthetic lay-
ipes, a print magazine, a mobile app that you can use at the supermar-
outs. How important are images for the food market?
ket to look at a shopping list and buy ingredients, and an iPad app
Pictures are actually the crucial decision-making factor at the point where
which you can use when you’re standing at the hob cooking the same
this fierce competition takes place – i.e. at the newsagent’s, where there
recipe. Some bloggers also become food brands and others don’t.
are magazines with similar content. You’ve got subscribers on the one
There are already one or two blogs worldwide which are really big food
hand and impulse buyers at the newsagent’s on the other. And during the
brands. There’s Mimi Thorisson, who grew up in Hong Kong with her
asparagus and strawberry seasons, there are 15 magazine covers show-
Chinese father and French mother. The former model is married to a photographer and lives in a chateau in the South of France with her four younger children and several dogs. She markets books in a big way, markets her blog in a big way. The result is a very personal blog and some very personal books. Mimi Thorisson does this brilliantly and is a totally independent food brand linked to a personality. The same is true of Jamie Oliver, of course – the TV chef who has magazines, books and a YouTube channel. In fact, Jamie Oliver has one of the most popular YouTube food channels. He’s present in food retail too with olive oil, spreads, etc., all marketed under the Jamie Oliver brand. I can envisage BEEF! having products on food retailers’ shelves as well as books, magazines and a barbecue. Or a great gin made specially for BEEF!. Blogging is an extra discipline for food brands, and we don’t know what the future holds yet. But everything can exist side by side.
Because Food is Love
// 13
Coming back to BEEF! as a print publication: Some of the features in the magazines go into a particular subject in a huge amount of depth. Are they aimed at experts or have readers just become hungrier for knowledge? In my opinion, it’s got something to do with the male target market. Men pick one or two hobbies in their lives and then pursue them with incredible intensity and want to know every last detail. You’ve probably got a football fan in your group of friends who could tell you exactly when in 1990 Andi Brehme scored the crucial goal against the Argentinian goalie Goycochea making it 1-0 to Germany, which minute of the match in Rome he scored in, and with which foot. Men are obsessed with details once they find that one thing they’re interested in. And an interest in cooking always also entails an interest in tools, wine or electrical machinery. Some men trawl flea markets for espresso machines from the 60s and then spend years restoring them. At the end of it all, they’ve got a treasured possession they put together themselves. All of that comes together in cooking. We call it cooking, but there’s much more to it than that, of course. For men who collect wine or espresso machines, for example, there’s no such thing as too much detail. They always want to know even more. And that’s basically my answer to the question “Aren’t you worried about writing about the same thing all the time in BEEF!?” No, we’re not, because we don’t write a single standard piece about whisky: we write a story about a little island in Scotland where there are
80 unread emails into every day and ask not to receive any more infor-
still three illegal distillers who refuse to stop making their own
mation. I decide which messages go in there within a fraction of a
whisky. Every year, they spend a month in prison for doing it, and
second when I read the subject line. That’s enough to tell me that it’s
when they come out they carry on and the police pick them up
badly written and it’ll be one of those emails where I’m not addressed
again a year later. That’s the kind of whisky article we write. And
personally. 6,000 of my colleagues will get the same message. In fact,
we’ll come up with another 500 whisky stories without ever doing
I usually get them twice in a row. That’s bad-mannered and it gets the
that one straight whisky article. You can find the same thing in all
maximum penalty from me: being relegated to trash. So if I get the
sorts of specialist publications in the men’s magazine market. Pick
feeling a message is arbitrary and has been sent out more or less at
up a fishing magazine, for instance: an author manages to write 15
random to everyone on the mailing list for food, I’m not interested. If
pages about nothing but 25-gram spinnerbait. It’s utterly absurd to
it addresses me personally and the subject line says something like:
anyone outside this world, but anyone who’s part of it and enjoys
“New automatic barbecue fired up by BEEF!”, I can tell that someone
fishing that much will love it.
has put some thought into it. The barbecue has a USP – it heats up automatically – and this is an offer for me, for BEEF! Then I read the
Normally, people like me don’t interview you – we contact you
first 20 lines. Something else I don’t like is: “We’ve come up with
to place a client, a topic or a product in your magazine. What
something new – can you showcase it in your magazine?” I work for
content and material would whet your appetite? And what are
G+J because it means I’m not reliant on PR offers like that. I can say
the real no-nos for pitching PR to the media?
“No thanks” and just pick what appeals to us.
Question number one: exclusive offers. As soon as a PR agency can offer me something my competitors can’t get, it becomes interesting
In that case, I’m very glad you responded to my request for an
for me. That could be a customised package holiday, because that’s
interview, Mr Spielhagen.
the only way BEEF! travels: we never go on group holidays. Or it could
No problem at all, Ms Haut. I was very happy to. //
be an exclusive offer by a producer, for example if a jam manufacturer says: “We’ll make a limited edition of 2,000 jars of jam for you, there will be a bit of whisky in it and you can promote it.” Then I’m all ears. What should PR agencies not do? I’ve come to realise that arbitrariness is everywhere. I get 500 emails: between 350 and 400 of them are about some sort of PR or newsletter. I’ve got a folder that I move
14 //
The excellence of Italian manufacturing
The power of images Interview with German food photographer Hans Gerlach, conducted by Diana Dorenbeck, Ketchum Pleon Munich.
Food photography is one of the most difficult genres in the field,
was beyond their abilities. And that is the secret of a good photo: al-
requiring the ability to cook, arrange food and take pictures but also
though you might be arranging sesame seeds for hours, that mustn’t
a understanding of composition as well as organisation skills.
come across to the reader – everything has to look natural.
Ketchum Pleon´s Diana Dorenbeck spoke to Hans Gerlach, a recipe developer and photographer from Munich about the dos and don’ts.
Has food photography changed in recent years? Definitely. The way food is cooked and arranged has become increasingly relaxed.
What role do good photographs play in contemporary food
Today’s dishes are allowed to be livelier, more crumbly and more
communication? Photographs are vital for the success of a recipe.
natural. Steaks can have a dark spot and grill marks are no longer
Consumers have to be captivated. You have to make them think:
burned in individually. However, that also means food stylists don’t
that looks tasty, I would like to eat that. Only then will they read the
have to cook as well as they did ten years ago. Over the last decade,
recipe and start cooking. Of course, the content also has to meet
food photography has become increasingly professional. Unfortunate-
their needs, but without a successful photo, the recipe will get lost
ly, companies continue to make the mistake of setting PR photos up
in the crowd. When you develop a recipe, are you always thinking
like marketing photos. They look attractive, but they are overly con-
about the photo? I certainly think about how the food will be sliced
trived and unrealistic. A good shoot costs time and money, but only re-
and how the structure of the dish and the colours will look. In the
ally excellent photos will be chosen for publication in food magazines,
end, everything should be visually exciting and the colours should
which are becoming increasingly visual.
be harmonious. Of course, that would be a waste of time if the dish didn’t taste good, but the same is true of a dish that doesn’t look
What advice would you give to companies that present their
good. For example, I would never develop a dish with brown sauce,
food products in traditional and social media? The recipes you
brown meat and brown rice.
develop have to fit the product you are selling. If you try to create a tasty dessert using soy sauce, you will probably fail.
In your view, what makes a good food photo? A successful food photo has to be beautiful, but it shouldn’t scare people. I remember
Do you think there is a difference between traditional PR and
my first ravioli shoot. At the time, I was a food stylist. After a year
advertising images? You can eat any dish cooked for PR purposes
working at a three-star restaurant in Italy, I cut each piece of pas-
for lunch after the shoot. That is not true of food created for billboard
ta exactly the same; all the edges were the same length, with the
advertising. Advertising involves a lot more manipulation and trick-
same serrations. The food photographer asked me to cook them
ery. The dishes are no longer natural. //
again – if the reader saw such a perfect dish, they would feel that it
www.food-und-text.de
// 15
No more food to waste: the next big idea might just be yours Isabel Boerdam, Kim Zoon and Heleen Knuvelder from Ketchum Amsterdam tell us why initiatives and companies in the Netherlands have put food waste solutions on their agenda – and what is in it for you.
Food waste is high on the agenda. In the Netherlands, 2014 was
fact that we are all highly consumeristic, we have too little knowl-
even named the ‘year against food waste’ and this ambition still con-
edge about the shelf life of products and we are completely used
tinues. Numerous initiatives from small to large are trying to tackle
to our ‘perfectly’ shaped fruits and vegetables, so the imperfect
this worldwide problem from different angles: from packaging to
products end up in the rubbish bin. If we look at the numbers, 15
awareness, from reproduction to influencing behaviour. Young crea-
per cent of consumer food waste is caused by uncertainty about
tive minds are at the heart of the solution. Small companies dare to
the expiry dates on packaging. The confusion arises because many
think big. Will this finally be the beginning of the end of food waste?
consumers don’t know the difference between ‘best before’ and ‘use by’. This entails the risk that people throw away food directly if
Wasting food
the expiry date is reached. Luckily, in the Netherlands, this chal-
Think about your own food waste behaviour. How often do you
lenge is already taken care of by Tetra Pak, a cardboard packaging
cook more than you can eat? How many times do you find out-
manufacturer that aims to contribute to the reduction of food
dated products in your fridge? How frequently do you throw away
waste with a new and clearer term for ‘best before’. And there are
your leftovers instead of using them? In the Netherlands, consum-
more solutions on their way …
ers throw away 800 million kilograms (1,764 pounds) of food every year – an unbelievable amount considering the country only has 16
Thinking about food waste
million inhabitants! This equates to 50 kilograms of food per per-
In the Netherlands, initiatives are popping up in every sector to find
son per year, which is about 14 per cent of the food people buy,
solutions for food waste. This summer, the government of the Neth-
and this amounts to approximately 155 euros per person1. There
erlands worked with the government of Vietnam, the Food and Agri-
are more responsible ways to spend this kind of money and food,
culture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), the United Nations
don’t you think?
Environment Programme (UNEP) and the African Union Commission (AUC) to host an international three-day conference ‘NO MORE
Ways we waste
FOOD TO WASTE – global action to stop food losses and food waste’
In Europe, the consumer is the biggest food waster, followed by
in The Hague. This conference brought together a wide range of
agriculture, hospitality, processing and storage, supermarkets and
stakeholders in the food system, including bright young minds, to
the food industry. The top five most wasted products (excluding
share their experiences and work together to reduce food loss and
drinks) are dairy products, bread, vegetables, fruit and sauces.
waste throughout the supply chain, while improving the sustainabil-
There are several causes that lead to food wastage. Besides the
ity of the food system.
1
Milieu Centraal, 2012. Rapportage voedselverspilling voedingscentrum & GFK, 2013. Van Westerhoven en Steenhuisen, 2010 and CREM afvalsorteeranalyse plus alternatieve stromen (van Westerhoven, 2013).
16 //
No more food to waste
Using big data
Lab 2015. We want to show that the solutions to the biggest issues
Not only food-related companies try to contribute to the reduction of
Europe is facing today are already out there, hiding in plain sight. In
food waste. For example, the tech firm IBM is starting to put food
start-ups. In garages. And in young minds. We’re going to find those
waste on its agenda from a whole different angle: “We need to be
big ideas. And bring them to life with the help of some of the most
smarter about food: how we grow it, harvest it, distribute it and con-
important food companies in Europe. The Ketchum European Food
sume it. The resources we use for our food supply – land, water and
Lab is where the big meet the small to share, talk, collaborate and
most forms of energy – are not only finite, they are at risk. Fortu-
activate new ideas and concepts. To spark the magic, passion and
nately, there is a bounty of one resource that we can use to be more
creativity, the Food Lab will include a start-up competition through
efficient: information. Using big data and analytics, we can create
which we will select one winning idea from all those submitted – and
smarter food systems across the value chain.” To elaborate on this
we will offer the winner the support they need to bring their solution
thought, IBM will bring together 70 international top students from
to life. So think again. The next big idea to conquer food waste might
21 countries during the company’s Best Student Recognition Event
just be yours. //
to discuss ways to find technical solutions to food waste. Acting on food waste Besides these initiatives that are focused on solutions in the future, there are also companies – small and big – which are already actively contributing to reducing food waste every day. A great example in Amsterdam is the restaurant Instock, which was initially a pop-up concept but is now a permanent restaurant that serves a threecourse menu prepared with daily ‘rejected food’: misshapen vegetables, bruised fruit or ingredients from dented packaging. This initiative was founded by four young Ahold trainees (parent company of the supermarket chain Albert Heijn). Working in the heart of this food retailer, the four discovered how much good food was being wasted. This sparked the idea for the restaurant, reducing food waste while addressing this issue in a positive way. Every morning, with an electric car, the food rescue team from Instock picks up rejected ingredients from several Albert Heijn retailers in Amsterdam. Every day, it’s a surprise what the ‘catch of the day’ will be and since being launched in spring 2014, Instock has cooked over one million meals, with products that would otherwise have been thrown away. Saving the crooked cucumber The saving of food in the Netherlands continues with the initiative Kromkommer, meaning ‘crooked cucumber’. According to their estimation, about 5 to 10 per cent of all fruit and vegetables is wasted in the Netherlands because of their ‘looks’. They have joined forces with another no-waste initiative, Too Good To Waste, in their mission to save all the ‘weird’ and ‘leftover’ fruit and vegetables that would otherwise be wasted. They are campaigning for these underdogs, collecting them to process them in the most delicious soups and dishes, and supporting them with their Krommunity (crooked cucumber community). The next big idea might just be yours The conclusion? We can all do it. We can all contribute. We can all make a difference. Whether you are a food multinational, a small company or even a family or an individual, you know it is not a big step, you just have to make the next move. This is why Ketchum European Food Practice will organise the Ketchum European Food
Portuguese people eat ‘ugly fruit’
Portuguese people eat ‘ugly fruit’
// 17
grown from 100 associated consumers to 800, recently opened its third delivery point and now has a waiting list of 2,100 customers. It now works directly with 34 farmers and exceeded 100 tonnes of avoided waste in one year. In the summer, the scheme will expand to Oporto. The Fruta Feia cooperative arises from the need to overturn the standardisation trends regarding food, which have nothing to do with its quality and safety. This project aims to fight market inefficiency by changing consumption patterns and creating an alternative
Mónica Coelho, Ketchum Lisbon, reports on how the Portuguese people are dealing with the food waste problem.
market for ‘ugly fruit’ and vegetables – a market that values farmers and consumers, and that can prevent food waste as well as the unnecessary use of resources in their production: www.frutafeia. pt/en. In the last year, Fruta Feia received a Time Out Lisbon award for idea of the year and was mentioned in El País, The
Did you know that 100 million tonnes of food are wasted annually in
Guardian and The New York Times. Isabel Soares presented Fruta
the EU? In Portugal, there are up to 1.7 million tonnes of waste per
Feia at MAD4 in Copenhagen, among names such as Albert Adrià,
year, according to the food waste study project PERDA (2002). And
Alex Atala and René Redzepi. Spread the message: beautiful peo-
food waste could rise to over 120 million tonnes by 2020. Something
ple eat ugly fruit!
needs to be urgently done to change this! This is an ethical, economic and environmental issue. The EU is looking for every opportu-
And what can you do? Everyone can play a role in reducing food
nity to prevent food waste and strengthen the sustainability of the
waste. Often with minimal effort, food waste can be reduced, saving
food system. In the context of Expo Milano 2015, the European
money and helping to protect the environment. It might be a lot
Commission organised the international conference ‘Fight Food
easier than you think. A lot of good action and initiatives against food
Waste, Feed the Planet’. They intend to contribute to the setting of
waste are taking place in the EU and all around the world. Become
EU and global directions for food waste prevention, focusing in par-
part of this movement!
ticular on the importance of effective inter-sector cooperation from farm to fork.
And what can brands do? They can support this movement with marketing campaigns, and can offer logistics, material and financial
What are the Portuguese people doing? They are eating ‘ugly fruit’!
assistance, etc. According to TrendWatching, the next big trend for
Isabel Soares, a renewable-energy consultant from Lisbon, decided
brands is to evolve to a higher state of consciousness. They need to
last year to turn this unsightly reality into an opportunity. Fruta Feia
stop communicating their HUMAN side and instead take real, mean-
– ‘ugly fruit’ – buys rejected produce directly from supermarket sup-
ingful action to make consumers’ lives better. It’s time for the age of
pliers and sells it at a low price in Lisbon. In one year, Fruta Feia has
ENLIGHTENED BRANDS. //
18 //
Sharing is caring
Sharing is caring Julia Scherger and Judith Knabe from Brandzeichen, a company of Ketchum, describe the food sharing trend in Germany.
We live in an affluent society in which the appreciation of goods is
8,000 registered foodsavers voluntarily collect the commercial food
fading relentlessly. Especially when it comes to food, modern
for private use or for sharing with friends, on foodsharing.de or with
nations live in the lap of luxury. We forgot to care about what we
public soup kitchens, food banks and other social institutions. More
have to eat – because we have it in abundance. Unsurprisingly, this
than 300 ambassadors are responsible for coordinating existing and
leads to an unprecedented amount of food waste. In Germany,
new partnerships, foodsavers activities and other food sharing
every second 300 kilograms of food is dumped, and worldwide this
events. In addition to small organic supermarket chains and retailers,
amounts to 6.7 million tonnes per year.
global players such as Beiersdorf also support the community. With its ‘We care, you share’ campaign, Beiersdorf aims to promote the
Food sharing instead of a throwaway mentality
responsible utilisation of resources and encourage commitment to
Facing this startling trend, several movements are fighting for less
tackling food waste. To support foodsharing, companies either
food to end up in the rubbish bin. They aim to achieve greater aware-
donate surplus food or provide the association with fridges and stor-
ness of the value of food and of the existing global problem. In Ger-
age facilities. In return, the firms are relieved in the matter of dis-
many, the association foodsharing e. V. is on the rise in spotlighting
posal costs, waste separation and accountability of the further food
the meaning and the dwindling appreciation of food. Founded in
use for which the foodsavers sign a special legal agreement.
Cologne in 2012, the association gives a second chance to groceries which are still edible and enjoyable, but which are maybe beyond
Spreading the idea
their best-before date. With its voluntary and free-of-charge concept,
Having started in Germany, some foodsavers took the idea abroad:
the association has so far saved more than 1.8 million kilograms of
Austria, Switzerland, Scotland and the Netherlands are now also on
food from rubbish bins.
board. While France is trying to regulate food wastage on a legal level, Spanish activists came up with a similar concept of so-called
How does food sharing work?
solidarity fridges. All these food sharing advocates agree on the fact
On its internet platform foodsharing.de, surplus food from private
that the sharing idea is not to be confused with mere charity – every-
people, retailers or food industry companies which would otherwise
one can give and take food. Because in the end, it is about rediscov-
have ended up in the bin is offered and collected. To share their own
ering the value of food, about relearning to care about it and about
food with another person, community members publish the location
taking action against its waste. There is still a long way to go before
and the content of their ‘food basket’, which can be picked up at a fixed
a complete rethink is achieved within society. But pioneering pro-
date by another interested member. Strict guidelines prohibit hygieni-
jects such as foodsharing e. V. sound like a promising start. //
cally risky goods such as mincemeat or raw milk products. An alternative way of sharing private food is through public distribution stations. More than 200 publicly accessible places with fridges and shelves –
For further information
which are available and continually updated on maps on the website –
(partly in German and Dutch only):
now offer excess groceries throughout Germany. Cities such as
www.foodsharing.de
Cologne and Berlin demonstrate the greatest amount of activity.
www.foodsharingedinburgh.wordpress.com www.facebook.com/FoodsharingWageningen
Teaming up with partners
www.foodsharing.nl/over-foodsharing/wie-zijn-wij
To also provide industrial food which is still palatable, the association
www.theguardian.com/world/2015/jun/25
is cooperating with about 1,800 businesses and stores. More than
solidarity-fridge-spanish-town-cut-food-waste-galdakao
// 19
How to print food, or why 3-D printers are revolutionising the way we eat Lucas Mohr from Ketchum Pleon Digital in Berlin tells what‘s hot when food meets technology.
Meet Foodini (www.naturalmachines.com) or maybe ChefJet Pro
printers mostly create objects by layering or binding material together,
(www.3-Dsystems.com/es/chefjet). In case you are wondering
3-D food printers mainly use tools such as lasers and nozzles to create
what a Foodini or one of its many companions is, let’s take an intro-
the food. The printing process is usually a little bit faster than with
ductory look at the evolving world of 3-D food printing or what might
standard 3-D printers. The question of ingredients is more difficult than
be our (culinary) future.
the printing process itself. As you can imagine, not all ingredients can be used in the same way. Chocolate and sugar are easy to use, but
A natural fit?
things are more tricky with fresh ingredients. To solve this problem,
At first, 3-D printing and food do not sound like a natural fit as 3-D print-
the Foodini, for example, allows fresh goods to be inserted into steel
ers are mainly known for the production of plastic and metal goods.
capsules, creating ready-made meal packages that last up to five
Over the last few years, this has changed as technology has evolved.
days. NASA is even trying to create oils and powders that last up to
Using organic materials such as wheat has become more common
30 years. The so-called bioprinting process (www.modernmeadow.
and has opened the door for 3-D printed food.
com) takes us one step further and is a way of creating artificial biology products.
Yummy Now, if you think of food coming out of a printer, you are probably
A glance into the future
imagining something that looks and tastes weird. And indeed this
The first 3-D Food Printing Conference (www.3-Dfoodprintingcon-
used to be the case in the beginning. But with 3-D printers such as the
ference.com) was held in the Netherlands in April 2015, with the par-
Foodini or the Choc Creator (www.chocedge.com), it is now possible
ticipants discussing topics such as producing artificial beef using 3-D
to create not only small or single pieces of food, but also complete
printers and also rapidly producing personalised food for elderly people.
dishes such as a pizza or artistically designed sweets. As 3-D printed food becomes even tastier and more delicious-looking, more and
As the future will have it totally new ways of creating and experiment-
more people will give it a try, as one of the biggest obstacles to trying
ing with food will be possible using 3-D printing. Not only will there be
new food is the way it looks and obviously also tastes.
more creativity, but also the possibility of better food sustainability and nutritional customisability.
How it works A 3-D food printer is not your typical 3-D printer. While regular 3-D
So when will you try 3-D printed food for the first time? //
20 //
Interview with Sebastian Diehl
‘Tante Emma’ goes digital Nina Trittruf and Laura Schiwek, Ketchum Pleon Berlin, took a look at online food retail in Germany and talked to Sebastian Diehl, Managing Director of Emmas Enkel.
Do you remember those snug, sweet, independent stores from
while online retail in non-food consumer goods already represents a
grandma’s days that helped you out with flour, milk or soap? In Ger-
fixed value in Germany, FMCG haven’t conquered any significant
many, these shops are well known and were called ‘Tante-Emma-
market shares yet. “The lack of supply and the lack of demand are
Laden’ (Aunt Emma shop). Due to digital evolution, ‘Tante Emma’
often confused. If there is no one supplying online food retail, there
evolved, and handed over the business to the younger generation.
won’t be customers buying groceries online. Ten years ago, there
The food retailer Emmas Enkel (Emma’s grandchildren) is part of this
were endeavours to launch online retail, but the technology wasn’t
generation and lets you order fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG)
ready. There has now been market growth of about 42 per cent in
both in bricks-and-mortar stores and online.
the past year alone. This is about 1 per cent of the total market, which is worth at least 200 billion euros. The German market missed
Online retailers such as Emmas Enkel allow you to organise and
the chance to build a business and has left the gap for others to
browse through goods by, for example, category or theme boxes, or
occupy the niche,” explains Diehl. The market is nevertheless
to get recipes directly from a picture. “Preselected boxes catego-
expected to grow by up to 3 per cent by 2020.
rised by theme give people added convenience and inspiration. We provide our customers not only with a broad range of about 4,500
Traditional retailers (e.g. Kaiser’s Tengelmann, dm and Edeka) aren’t
products, but also with some guidance,” Diehl explains. You can
the only ones who are increasingly moving into the online market.
therefore order food while sitting on the sofa, regardless of opening
Specialised meal delivery services are popping up like mushrooms,
times and with same-day delivery. Or what about ordering bags of
providing consumers with the convenience of premeasured
food and recipes ready to prepare – it is the perfect way. Or is it?
regional ingredients tailored for two or four people to prepare meals at home (e.g. HelloFresh, Home eat Home and Gegessen
Online food retail – an evolving market
wird immer). In addition, local and organic providers are moving
Looking at evolving trends in Europe, e-commerce seems to be well
into online retail with fresh produce preselected in boxes (e.g. Bio-
on the way to leading business for FMCG, especially in the UK. But
box and Bonativo).
Tante Emma goes digital
// 21
Touch, see, smell or taste – the physical experience of fresh pro-
want to waste time in long queues after work any more. At the same
duce is still important and is a barrier to e-commerce
time, these people won’t give up on quality or a broad range of
According to a study conducted by Statista in 2014, the reasons
goods.” Additionally, the silent generation (65+) is becoming more
why people refuse to buy groceries online are, among others, a
important: “We are there for elderly people who need a helping
lack of offers, high costs, complicated delivery circumstances or a
hand doing their groceries and are no longer able to carry heavy
lack of confidence. But at 83 per cent, the most important reason
grocery bags.”
is that customers can’t assess the quality of the produce before it ends up on their kitchen counter. “The only way in which to over-
Contrary to popular belief, online retail isn’t just a niche for urban
come this barrier is to build and maintain trust. Fruit and vegetables
areas. Emmas Enkel often receives requests from people living in
are in our top ten of the best-selling products. People understand
rural areas, where there is a lack of deliverable goods that you nor-
that we provide a high quality and that they can rely on us and our
mally buy in retail: “Due to demographic change in Germany, there
services,” says Diehl. “Our relationship with customers is enor-
is a need for elderly people to have customisable delivery, especially
mously important to us. Online retail is just one of numerous ways
in the countryside. I think it is increasingly important to fix this gap,”
in which to reach the customer – the human level is still a decisive
Diehl says. “Additionally, we are convinced that there will be a shift
component of failure or success.”
towards little urban concepts like Emmas Enkel. Nevertheless, big discounters will remain a dominant factor in the market for some
Selling food online is a matter of multichannel communication
time to come.” //
“For us, the combination of bricks-and-mortar and an online store is
www.emmas-enkel.de
the perfect fit for customer needs and logistical considerations. First of all, fresh food can be compared neither to products that are totally digitalised such as music and books, nor to products that can be delivered and returned easily such as T-shirts and shoes. Fresh foods have an expiry date and need to be transported under certain temperature conditions. We therefore needed decentralised logistics to transport our goods in the best possible way without wasting coolant and packaging due to long transport distances. Another important factor is, again, trust. People know that the food they order online comes from a store nearby and that it didn’t have to be transported a long way from a central warehouse. With our bricksand-mortar store, we get in contact with our customers, we get feedback directly and do market research. In addition, we still have to face demographic change in Germany. Elderly people have the possibility of ordering their goods in our store and having them delivered right to their front door”, says Diehl. Online food retail is therefore no substitute for bricks-and-mortar stores; rather, physical shops and online retail coexist. In addition to being able to assess the quality of the products in a store, there are other reasons why people prefer bricks-and-mortar stores, such as the shopping experience and the personal contact. On the other hand, some categories are simply better suited to e-commerce, such as speciality product ranges, which can be offered with a greater selection online compared with in physical shops. The silent generation and urban time savers According to Nielsen, millennials followed by Generation Zers are the most avid online grocery shoppers and are the most willing to use all of the e-commerce options in the future. These two groups feel highly comfortable with technology, and online shopping is part of their everyday life. Emmas Enkel insights illustrate this trend clearly: “Our target group is above all urban people who want to reduce the time they spend grocery shopping. They simply don’t
22 //
Food Trend: Children´s Nutrition
Food trend: children’s nutrition is going to be digital Teresa Sorg from Ketchum Pleon Frankfurt found mobile helpers for young parents. Beyond common nutrition tips and recipes, they have come up with something new: specific advice. A role model for modern food communication?
Nutrition and food trends are omnipresent topics that everybody is deal-
tomised to anybody’s taste and a child’s special needs (e.g. in case of
ing with. For young parents who wish to get their baby or toddler used
allergies) wherever and whenever the user needs it. Sport games
to healthy and sensible nutrition, this is particularly important. After all,
complete the offer of healthy living advice. This should help boost the
healthy development and an age-based food variety go hand in hand.
cooperation between parents and day-care workers to another level in a modern way – for the children’s sake.
In addition, children’s nutrition is a social topic, as the reasons for a child being overweight can often be found in childhood nutrition hab-
The network ‘Gesund ins Leben’ (A healthy start in life) offers an app
its. Diseases such as high blood pressure, hip problems and cardiovas-
especially for the first year of a baby’s life. The network is an associa-
cular disease can often be traced back to incorrect food habits. This
tion of relevant institutions, companies and organisations that deal with
generates enormous costs for the healthcare system.
young families. It is supported by Germany’s Federal Ministry of Food
Many tips and information regarding good and appropriate nutrition for
recipes and tips for a baby’s first year. Nutritional advice for breastfeed-
children can be found in magazines, on websites and in parents’ com-
ing mums, checks and calculators for every day give mobile support for
munities. The food pyramid, calorie recommendations for every age
young parents and are suitable for every month of a baby’s life.
and Agriculture. The app Baby & Food offers a detailed plan including
and simple recipes are the basics – additional advice is helpful: a nice atmosphere at the table, bite-sized food and family rituals make meals
Specific advice for children’s nutrition seems to be a trend that is get-
a pleasant experience for kids.
ting more and more attention in public and private life. On their ‘traditional’ websites, federal ministries, health funds, parents’ communities
Something which is new and increasingly popular is apps that focus on
and food magazines permanently offer up-to-date information regard-
children’s nutrition and therefore give parents mobile, direct help. One
ing healthy and varied nutrition as well as playful exercises for kids. The
of the newest projects is the programme KULINARIX initiated by the
digital, personalised way is now the next way to walk. //
Adalbert-Raps-Stiftung, the company foundation of the spice producer Raps, which is involved in social initiatives in Bavaria. The starting point for better quality, networking and balance in children’s nutrition is the
Helpful links (german only)
digital platform vitakid at four day-care centres in Kulmbach, Bavaria.
www.bit.ly/1LsQmQT www.bit.ly/1NRRAmx
Vitakid is aimed at parents and childcare workers. It is a healthcare app
www.bit.ly/1L1vfjg
that offers more than 1,200 recipes for children. The app can be cus-
www.bit.ly/1MKAXw1
Gastronomy Trend: Innovation or Genius?
// 23
Gastronomy trend: Innovation or Genius? Ana González from Ketchum Madrid discovered new concepts of gastronomy where chefs collaborate with scientists, engineers and designers.
Producing wines without grapes, organising the gastronomic opera El
According to Joan Roca, “non-conformism is what has made us move
Somni or capturing the volatile soul of a perfume and turning it into an
forward”. The Roca brothers’ desire to innovate goes beyond dishes
edible reality … Is this just innovation or is there something more to it?
and cooking, and is aimed at inspiring emotions. The team is even taking a course in sensorial perception to be able to better explain to
At El Celler de Can Roca, which was named the best restaurant in the
their guests how they would like them to feel.
world for the second time by the prestigious magazine Restaurant, the creative team constantly challenges the meaning of the word gas-
This summer, the Roca brothers are planning to embark upon a
tronomy by creating new concepts that combine science with taste
new and ambitious project: taking their restaurant and the whole
and emotions.
team to Buenos Aires, Houston, Miami, Birmingham and Istanbul. They will spend five weeks submerging themselves in new cul-
Only a few weeks ago, the Roca brothers (Joan, Josep and Jordi)
tures, learning different culinary habits and cooking techniques,
presented La Masía, their new innovation centre. This is a place where
and getting to know new ingredients. They will also create a special
gastronomy is approached from different disciplines, a special envi-
menu for each country, based on the different cultures and prod-
ronment where things happen all the time. Lectures, readings, role
ucts. Furthermore, this tour de force will also be a great opportu-
exchange … A team composed of a scientist, a perfumer, an oenolo-
nity for young chefs in the different countries, since some of the
gist, an engineer and a botanist view gastronomy from different per-
most outstanding will be given the opportunity to come to Girona
spectives. One of the most interesting projects under investigation at
with the Roca brothers to further develop their skills and widen
La Masía consists of recovering traditional but in some cases
their culinary horizons.
long-forgotten vegetal species from the Girona area to be used in the kitchen. So far, they have registered 2,800 different species and,
But the Roca brothers’ merits are not only of a culinary nature. They
of the 350 species analysed, 30 are already being used in the restaurant.
strongly believe that haute cuisine has a role to play in making the world a better place. Their commitment to the local community and to
With the help of a dedicated team, the Roca brothers are doing unim-
the people of Girona hasn’t changed one bit since El Celler de Can
aginable and almost impossible things at La Masía, such as distilling
Roca was named the best restaurant in the world for the second time.
wood, leather and wool. As Jordi Roca put it on the big blackboard
Because, as Joan Roca humbly says, “the best restaurant in the world
during one of their usual brainstorming sessions when they write
does not exist. Each person has his/her own best restaurant and that
down hundreds of ideas: “Impossible just means that you haven’t
is what matters”. //
found the solution yet.”
24 //
Tapas 2020
Tapas 2020 Ana González from Ketchum Madrid describes the current trends in Spanish food.
Over the years, the Spanish tapa has evolved from a slice of ham or cheese on top of a glass of wine to a kind of miniature cuisine, i.e. the long and narrow menu that tapa has become nowadays. The renowned Spanish food journalist María Jesús Gil de Antuñano1 thinks that current trends will continue evolving until a new revolution comes up. By revolution, she means, for example, the change from the French style of food consumed in Spain at the end of the nineteenth century to the nouvelle cuisine started in France by Paul Bocuse and continued in Spain by Luis Irizar’s disciples in the 70s: respect for the main ingredient without hiding its taste, shorter and more precise cooking stages that preserve the ingredients’ nutritional properties, fewer calories, delicate scents … The second big revolution incorporated science into cooking and explained food reactions in a scientific way. In Spain, it came from Ferran Adrià, but it took place almost simultaneously in several countries. These two revolutions had both great and awful followers. The current trend seems to go back to traditional cooking based on these premises: proximity in time and space, i.e. a nearby orchard or point of capture and a short period of time until the product arrives in the kitchen and between preparation of the rec-
For María Jesús Gil de Antuñano, it seems clear that the trends for the coming years will be as follows: excellent products collected or captured recently, traditional preparation with fewer calories, and simple presentation. // Jesús Gil de Antuñano is a Member of the Spanish Royal Academy of Gastronomy, Great Cross of Merit for Food from the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture, Chévalier de l’Ordre Alimentaire of the French Ministry of Agriculture and National Prize of Gastronomy. 1
Photo: Fotolia; exclusive-design
ipe and the moment of consumption.
Mr Launch
// 25
LOW SUGAR OR NO SUGAR The debate is already on across Europe and Tara Munday, Director of European Food & Beverage Practice from Ketchum London, reflects on the right communi cation strategy for brands in these times of new demands for low-sugar offerings.
Worldwide concern over increasing rates of obesity and related health
Consumer and media interest in sugar is increasing significantly
consequences has grown significantly over recent years. Scrutiny of
across Europe. Recently, the UK government announced guide-
the role of refined carbohydrates in the global epidemics of obesity and
lines in line with the WHO recommendations. It won’t be long
type 2 diabetes and the new recommended guidelines for sugar con-
before other European nations follow suit. However, the popular-
sumption from the World Health Organization (WHO) mean that calorie
ity of low and no sugar options demonstrates that consumers still
content in food and beverages is a hotter topic than ever before.
want to be able to enjoy sweet-tasting drinks and snacks. So how do manufacturers meet this consumer need and desire for less
The guidelines from the WHO recommend that sugars should be less
sugar without changing the taste of their popular brands? Replacing
than 10 per cent of total energy intake per day, with a further condi-
sugar poses different challenges for different categories in differ-
tional recommendation that intakes should fall below 5 per cent of
ent markets. Manufacturers are looking to the ingredient industry
daily energy from free sugars (around 30 grams a day for adults). This
to help provide innovative ingredients to help meet this expanding
conditional recommendation has been adopted in the UK, where it is
consumer demand.
expected to lower calorie intakes and help drive down obesity risk. These guidelines will certainly add pressure to policymakers and the
Consumers today have high awareness of the link between nutrition
food industry to adapt their product formulations. Be it consumer
and weight loss, so perhaps health and weight management are
demand or regulatory pressure, it is clear that leading food and bever-
closely linked when it comes to calorie reduction motivation factors.
age companies are looking for more flexible and versatile ways to tailor
Views on weight have changed, with there now being a much bigger
the calorie content of their products to their target consumer audi-
emphasis on achieving a healthy weight versus being slim or over-
ences, all without compromising on taste, of course. So, once viewed
weight. According to a new trends report from New Nutrition Busi-
as specialist products for people adhering to weight loss diets or living
ness, the weight management market is at a tipping point and con-
with diabetes, products containing non-nutritive sweeteners have
sumers are now looking to ‘everyday foods’ for weight wellness over
made the leap from niche to mainstream. Today, no and low calorie
diet foods. “Consumers are switching to regular foods to maintain
versions of a vast range of foods and drinks are available, containing a
weight wellness,” said the report’s author Julian Mellentin. “People’s
variety of sweetener types from artificial sweeteners such as aspar-
desire to maintain a healthy weight is the biggest influence on the
tame to the more recent plant-derived stevia.
key trends in food and health.” Creating a communications strategy for brands to help with this new demand for low-sugar offerings of
The UK dietician and media commentator Dr Carrie Ruxton says: “The
their favourite foods cannot be underestimated. Consumers want a
focus on sugar is likely to continue for some time and cannot be
new relationship with food. They want to know what’s in their food,
ignored. Manufacturers will need to examine their product portfolios to
how it gets there, how the people who make it are treated and how
decide whether reformulation is possible or whether other strategies
food companies behave in nature and in the community. What they
involving portion size, marketing, promotion or consumer messaging
sometimes get is confusing, often contradicting or incomprehensi-
are more appropriate. Consumers are increasingly interested in sugar
ble messages from the food industry.
and will be looking to the industry to provide more information about product ingredients, including the type of sugar and sweeteners used.
If food companies are going to embrace this new relationship with
The discord between labelling laws, which require total sugars to be
consumers, they must figure out how to make sense of it all in a way
declared on pack, and recommendations, which are couched as ‘free
that acknowledges consumer concerns and provides credible informa-
sugars’, will remain a challenge for both industry and health educators.”
tion that is understandable to an average person. //
26 //
Camembert à la Russe
Camembert à la russe Maria Losyukova from Ketchum Moscow on how foodies get creative during the embargo.
August 2015 marked a year since Russia imposed an embargo on food from the EU, the US, Australia, Norway and Canada, and Moscow recently declared it would be extended for another year. Putting aside any geopolitical discourse, we wanted to take a look at the effect of the food sanctions on the average consumer and fine food connoisseur. The embargo targets imports of beef, pork, chicken, fish, dairy products, fruit and vegetables. In 2015, a number of new products were added to the list: lactose-free dairy products, baby trout, oysters and mussels. The ban has caused a mix of consequences, including an increase in the domestic production of certain foods, an obvious sharp drop in imports and, as happens with any prohibition, a new black market of smuggled products that are being sold primarily to restaurants and large retailers. The sanctions have also raised nationwide polemics from two opposite standpoints: on the one hand patriotic support of the import ban that was endorsed by a number of local producers with pro-Russian
While the average consumer can surely go without a slice of Cam-
advertising, on the other hand the frustration of those who feel that
embert or Gorgonzola, some Russian restaurateurs were forced to
their freedom of choice has been unfairly limited by geopolitical con-
totally rewrite their menus or sometimes change their establish-
troversy. However, statistics show that only 1 per cent of Russia’s
ments’ specialisation. But most just started looking for new food
population has been affected by the food embargo and this relates
providers. European seafood is being replaced with products from
mostly to middle- and upper-middle-class big-city residents.
the Russian Far East, India, Bangladesh and Indonesia. Italian restaurants admit to serving Serbian pršut instead of the usual prosciutto
One of the most obvious restrictions for the average consumer was
di Parma. Australian steaks have been replaced with Argentinian
the ban on European dairy products and, in particular, the ban on
meat. Chefs are turning to local seasonal produce more than ever
cheese. Italian, French and Dutch cheeses have featured in the Rus-
before, and this is not only good for Russia’s economy but also great
sian shopping trolley for many years. The embargo left only Swiss
for the ecology.
cheese on the supermarket shelves, and prices soared due to the monopolistic situation. Local producers had never before tried to
But the real zeitgeist is the habits of Russian foodies. Those who can
compete with the European quality of this product – until now, that
really tell the difference between Italian Grana Padano and its local
is! More and more stories of entrepreneurs setting up small cheese
replacement have found a new type of souvenir to bring back from
farms and businesses all over Russia have come to light in the
European travels – cheese and cured meat. And this is not the only
course of the year. Unsurprisingly, most of them are foreigners: Ital-
newly acquired habit of food lovers. For example, Ketchum’s Senior
ians making mozzarella and burrata in Kostroma, an American dairy
GR Consultant Alexander Mazanov went a step further. After work-
farmer producing goat cheese in remote Siberia, an Englishman
ing in Paris for several years and being a true Francophile, he couldn’t
making Gouda and Edam in the Vladimir region, and French Camem-
go without real Camembert cheese. So he started to make it him-
bert being made in the Perm region. Small local start-ups and organic
self. Alexander orders a special fungus for the mould crust in an
farming are also booming. Even monks in the famous Valaam Mon-
online French shop. Russian milk seems to pair up quite well with it.
astery have set up a Parmesan production line under the careful
The rest is a result of several months of ageing and Alexander’s
guidance of an Italian cheesemaker.
culinary talent. His colleagues are impressed! //
France’s hidden wine champions
// 27
More than Bordeaux Viticulture and wine are core elements of French culture. The ‘Appellation d’origine contrôlée’ (AOC: origincontrolled label) was created in 19361 to foster the emergence of recognised vineyards in the country’s many different regions. Despite the rich diversity of French wines, the Bordeaux-growing region traditionally dominates the international scene. But it pays to look further and discover the true drivers of the French wine market, as Alison Gauzin of Ketchum Paris reveals.
The Languedoc-Roussillon region made the ranking with a total of
Drink local It may come as a surprise, but most wines sold are neither red nor
three wines: La Pèira Matissat in 3rd place, Cuvée Impériale in 4th
white, but rosé. France is the No. 1 producer as well as the top con-
place and Grenaches de Pierre in 5th place. There are also three wines
sumer: 30 percent of wine consumed is rosé2. Provence is the leading
of the Bordeaux region: Pessac-Léognan Blanc in 10th place, Saint-Es-
region, producing more rosé than any other type of wine, at 88 percent,
tèphe in 12th place and L’Extravagant in 13th place.
which represents 35 percent of the total French rosé wine production3. The top of the ranking is occupied by a wine from the Alsace region, Export
Riesling Rangen de Thann, followed by a wine from the Vallée de la
The two regions Alsace and Languedoc-Roussillon lead in export busi-
Loire region, Clos des Bonnes Blanches.
ness. Languedoc-Roussillon, the No. 1 export region in 2013, boosted exports in 2014 (+10 percent)4. This success could be based on the
Although Bordeaux wines are the most famous and widely exported,
unparalleled diversity of wines produced in Languedoc-Roussillon. The
their global consumption is decreasing, while export sales from other
label ‘Sud de France’ was recently created to promote this aspect5.
regions such as Languedoc-Roussillon, Alsace, Vallée du Rhône and Vallée de la Loire are increasing. Soon, another champion, very likely
Alsace was also very successful in exports in 2013, up 4.6 percent by
France’s future export and production leader, will be born thanks to the
volume . Dedicated mainly to whites, which make up 90 percent of
merging of the two major wine regions Languedoc-Roussillon and
output, Alsace produces almost 1.1 million hectolitres of wine per year.
Midi-Pyrénées. This new wine production powerhouse can be
The region accounts for 18 percent of French white wine production .
expected to challenge the French and global wine markets, and eclipse
6
7
several currently leading wines – maybe even those from Bordeaux. // The stars of 2014 Each year, the ranking of the best French wines is published8. In 2014, only 13 wines out of 7,000 received the highest score (100/100) – and with it the seal of approval ‘legendary’. Among these 13 wines, Vallée du Rhône is the most represented region, with five wines: Epsilon is in 6th place, Château de Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes in 7th place, Barroche Pure in 8th place, Les Bessards in 9th place and La Landonne in 11th place.
www.vinsdecassis.fr.2RTL.fr.3CIVP – Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence.4France 3 Languedoc-Roussillon.5www.sud-de-france.com.6Le Figaro. CIVA – Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins d’Alsace.8Guide des Vins Lafont 2014.
1 7
28 //
Trend: Japanese whisky on the rise
Kampai! – Japanese whisky on the rise At the end of 2014, the news was announced: the best whisky in the world comes from Japan. The Briton Jim Murray placed the Yamazaki Sherry Cask from the company Beam Suntory in first place. Since then, Japanese whisky has become more popular than ever, acknowledges Theresa Kovermann, Ketchum Pleon Frankfurt.
whisky. Back in Japan, he became the first manager at Suntory and founded, together with Torii, the Yamazaki distillery. However, in 1934, he established his own firm, which brought its first whisky onto the market in 1940 under the name Nikka. Suntory and Nikka are still the two largest whisky producers in Japan. In total, there are eight Japanese distilleries belonging to five owners – Scotland in comparison has around 100 distilleries. The most famous Japanese whisky brands are Yamazaki and Nikka. Both are also extremely popular among European whisky drinkers. Yet Japanese whisky does not enjoy the same attention as its Scottish or American counterparts. However, they have in recent years won numerous awards, most recently with the industry Compared with Scottish single malts or American bourbon whis-
news par excellence: “Disgrace for Scotland: best whisky in the
kys, the market share of Japanese whisky on the European mar-
world comes from Japan”. The Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask
ket is still small. The reason for this is that a large proportion of
2013 has been voted by ‘Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2015’ as “Best
Japanese whisky production remains in Japan and only a small
Whisky in the World”, which resulted in immense media coverage.
amount is exported. Yet Japanese whisky in Europe is becoming
The product was not only sold out worldwide in a very short time,
increasingly popular. Last year, sales almost doubled in this rela-
it also helped the Japanese whisky gain greater attention.
tively small category. Especially in the premium bars of big cities,
But why this hype and what trends inspired this development?
the demand and ultimately the disposal of these ‘exotics’ contin-
Basically, consumers are increasingly asking for higher-quality
uously increased.
spirits and therefore access to premium brands. Japan is synony-
If one talks of Japanese whisky, many think of ‘learned from the
mous with high quality. Not only in cars and electronics, but also
Scots’. This is half the truth: The Japanese came to Scotland and
in the food industry: Kobe beef, Wagyu meat, sushi, etc. repre-
learned from the locals about the production of whisky. Thereby,
sent quality and luxury within the food sector. It is therefore only
they were able to take the techniques learned back to Japan and
logical that whisky, which has been produced by traditional Scot-
produce their own whisky. However, as so often happens when
tish methods and perfected by Japanese craftsmanship, aroused
the Japanese have their hands in the game, they brought the
the attention of connoisseurs. In addition, the group of whisky
whole manufacturing process to perfection.
connoisseurs who are always in search of new experiences is
The success story of Japanese whisky begins with the creation
growing. In recent years, they have engaged intensively with
and the development of the first Japanese distillery Suntory
Scottish and Irish malt whisky and are now curious about new
Yamazaki Distillery in 1923 by Shinjiro Torii. The oldest distillery of
tastes and flavours.
Japan is located north of Osaka on the outskirts of the former
And the Japanese are catching up fast and now know how to
capital Kyoto. Justification for the choice of the site was the
attract attention within their clientele. This summer, Suntory
closeness of high-quality water and the particularly mild climate.
announced it was going to shoot whisky samples into space, to
Following the Scottish tradition, the Yamazaki whisky has been
find out how they mature in weightlessness. Though the company
produced by the classical pot still process. Best water resources,
is not the first, because the Scots were here a bit faster, one can
former bourbon and Spanish sherry casks and barrels made of
expect that the Japanese will try to notch this up – maybe they
Japanese water oak (also called Mizunara) complete the whisky
also bring it below the ground. However, after a year in the Japa-
from the land of the rising sun.
nese laboratory of the International Space Station, the samples
Another great pioneer of Japanese whisky was Masataka Taket-
will be brought back to Earth and we can look forward to the next
suru, who travelled to Scotland in 1918 to learn how to produce
Japanese coup! //
Close up: Food Studio
// 29
Ketchum’s new state-of-the-art food studio boils over with creativity Shelley Roth from Ketchum San Francisco introduces Ketchum‘s renovated food studio that helps our clients around the world engage in real-time digital storytelling.
Nearly 40 years ago, Ketchum was the first large agency to plant its flag
sional world of food today,” said Barri Rafferty, Senior Partner and CEO
in the food marketing landscape with the formation of its food division
of North America. “This renovated studio beautifully showcases
and the launch of the Ketchum Kitchen. This space, initially established
Ketchum’s ability to help our clients around the world engage in real-
as a venue for recipe development, was a testament to the agency’s
time digital storytelling while staying rooted in the Global Food & Bever-
commitment to helping our clients navigate trends and issues across
age Practice’s heritage, which includes culinary design and creativity.”
the food and beverage spectrum. With the advent of modern-day chefs attaining rock star status and their restaurants serving as their platforms, the role of food in the global marketplace has evolved … and so has Ketchum. In April, Ketchum reaffirmed its commitment to culinary creativity by relaunching the Ketchum Kitchen as the new Ketchum Food Studio. As part of Ketchum’s Global Food & Beverage Practice, this state-ofthe-art culinary communications centre blends digital communications
“We are in the middle of a food revolution, one powered by information technology and driven by consumers.” Linda Eatherton, Partner, Director, Global Food & Beverage Practice
Shelley Roth is the Director of the new Ketchum Food Studio and her team is comprised of six culinary experts – including Steve Siegelman, VP, Senior Creative Director and author of more than 37 cookbooks – who are ready and able to offer any Ketchum client or
and culinary expertise into a content-generating machine that can help
prospect a host of support options, such as recipe and menu develop-
Ketchum Food & Beverage clients distance themselves from their com-
ment, new product concepts, nutrition programmes and more. As the
petition. And, as the food and beverage landscape continues to grow
icing on the cake, the Ketchum Food Studio staff work closely with Sto-
and evolve, the new space also serves as a hub for the practice’s
ryWorks, a content and strategy design team, on creating dynamic and
360-degree consulting services for all of Ketchum’s clients – not just
engaging digital and social content for each client’s individualised needs.
those in the food and agriculture industries. “As leaders, it is our obligation to continue to transform and advance “Building on the 40-year legacy of the renowned and respected Ketchum
our Global Food & Beverage Practice,” said Linda Eatherton. “The new
Kitchen, the Ketchum Food Studio addresses the complex, multidimen-
Ketchum Food Studio is a virtual engine of food content and creativity
30 //
2015 World Expo
as well as a hub for our food and beverage professionals worldwide to
example, the Ketchum FOODive Culinary Immersion programme, an
share and deepen food industry insights. That, along with our Food
experiential food think tank that takes clients and their customers on
2020 research and growing professional expertise, enables us to pro-
thought-provoking, off-the-grid culinary voyages, is being used to stim-
vide our clients with breakthrough strategies and creative work.”
ulate fresh R & D thinking and marketplace insights. Tours of various US and global markets generally include a medley of restaurants, food
The Ketchum Food Studio routinely features trend, issue and thought
trucks, retailers and emerging concepts. Ketchum experts guide and
leadership panel discussions moderated by some of the agency’s food
moderate the sessions and conduct brain-teaser exercises to generate
leaders, as well as cooking demonstrations by a variety of chefs and
the best thinking. They then turn that ‘blue-sky’ thinking into break-
bakers. A team of registered dieticians provides consultations on
through, marketable culinary concepts that give clients an unrivalled,
healthy recipe and menu development.
competitive edge.
Increasingly, the Ketchum Food Studio is helping restaurant chains and
If you are interested in learning more about the Ketchum Food Studio,
food manufacturers with menu and new product development. For
visit www.ketchum.com/ketchum-food-studio. //
Milan welcomes millions for the 2015 world expo Paola Chiasserini and Rachel Niemoller from Ketchum Italy highlight the place to be for food lovers this year: the World Expo in Milan.
Millions of people from around the world have headed to Italy on the occasion of what has become known as the most extraordinary world’s fair in decades, Expo Milano 2015. Taking place from May 1 to October 31 in Milan, Italy – dubbed the “Number One Place to Go in 2015” by The New York Times – Expo Milano 2015 has welcomed close to 20 million visitors from across the world. With its food-focused theme, ‘Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life’, Expo Milano 2015 offers the opportunity to explore (and taste) the cultures of over 145 different countries – all on one exhibition site. Focusing on the fair’s central mission of feeding the world’s population of nine billion by
Throughout the six months of this universal exhibition, Milan has
the year 2050, the participating countries are presenting their innova-
hosted a multitude of cultural events both on- and off-site Expo. Ita-
tive strategies and ideas of how to rise to this exceptional global chal-
ly’s fashion capital and business hub has been transformed into an
lenge. See how Israel turns its arid terrain into fertile land, climb Brazil’s
international hot spot; from art shows, pop-up restaurants and
jungle-like web over clusters of fruits and flowers, experience the desert
extravagant galas to global conferences on issues including food
dunes of the United Arab Emirates, breathe in the oxygen of Austria’s for-
security and sustainability, B2B meet and greets, live cooking
ests and sample authentic cuisine from around the globe. From gourmet
demonstrations with some of the world’s top chefs, terrace talks
Mexican tacos and Japanese street food to fresh kale salad at the USA’s
and more, visitors are experiencing Milan like never before. //
Food Truck Nation, local Italian artisanal products and a supermarket of the future, you can taste how nations throughout the world are adapting their
To see for yourself what all the fuss is about,
respective culinary habits to nutritiously and sustainably feed the planet.
visit www.expo2015.org/en.
European hotspots
MILAN hotspots The best events for eating and drinking in Milan!
// 31
An exposition site of 1.1 million square metres, more than 140 countries and international organisations involved, and over 20 million anticipated visitors – but this is only the beginning: the city is in motion, generating new ideas and dedicating itself to one of its most important works to date. Outside of Expo Milano’s gates, in the city of Milan, there is a world of events to explore. Here are the top events selected for Ketchum!
A RAW VEGAN DINING EXPERIENCe First vegan restaurant in Milan
Introducing Mantra, Italy’s first raw vegan restaurant (totally gluten-free), offering a tasting menu carefully prepared by chef Alberto Minio Paluello and costing 30 euros, including wine pairings. Taste cold-pressed Mantra juice and dishes such as red turnip ravioli filled with a sweet pepper-peanut sauce, zucchini lasagne with marinara sauce and macadamia ricotta cheese, and fresh bread with smoked cheese and herbs. Where: Via Panfilo Castaldi, 21 More info: www.mantrarawvegan.com
PEACE KITCHEN Culture and food under the rising sun
Sake and nigiri tastings, interactive dinners, meetings and installations, mochitsuki (a ceremony to prepare mochi, a rice-based dessert), traditional dances and cooking lessons. The kitchen of Un Posto a Milano will offer a menu of exquisite dishes created by chef Nicola Cavallaro, where traditional Japanese meets Italian cuisine. When: until 31 October 2015 Where: Museo Branca, Torre Branca and the eight Milanese bars listed above More info: www.branca.it
32 //
European hotspots
20 CHIC FOURCOURSE Meals Dinners at Unico Milano
JAMES BEARD AMERICAN RESTAURANT
Among the many renowned guest chefs are Enrico Bartolini of the Devero Ristorante, Marco Sacco of Piccolo Lago di Verbania, Angelo Sabatelli of Monopoli and Antonio Borruso of Umami di Bormio. When: every Sunday evening from May to October Where: Viale Achille Papa, 30 Reservations: www.unicorestaurant.it/en
The James Beard American Restaurant offers the opportunity to taste contemporary American gourmet cuisine thanks to a rotating cast of renowned chefs coming to Milan from across the United States. The celebrated Italian chef Massimo Bottura is slated as the chef for the United States’ Independence Day on 4 July, while every Thursday, guests will be able to experience a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. Sundays feature an authentic American brunch.
Rotating cast of chefs from the US When: 8 May to October, Tuesday to Friday (evenings) and Sunday brunch (11 a.m. to 4 p.m.) Where: Seven Stars Galleria Hotel, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 11/12, Piazza della Scala entrance, fifth floor More info: www.usapavilion2015.net
Munich hotspot
Photo: Max Pett
Max Pett
Opened in 2010, Max Pett has become one of the top vegan restaurants in Munich – and it’s not just for vegans. The reason for its popularity could be chef Peter Ludik’s creativity and passion for recreating traditional meat dishes in a vegan way. www.max-pett.de/blog
European hotspots
// 33
Madrid hotspot Moda & Food
The well-known shopping mall Moda Shopping located in the AZCA business district of Madrid is changing its positioning to become a leading light in fashion and now also gastronomy. With its new name Moda & Food, the shopping centre will offer its more than 100,000 daily visitors a more impressive array of gastronomy. More info: www.modashopping.com
Food truck mania comes to Spain!
It has not been easy because Spanish legislation limits food truck activity to fairs and private events, but young entrepreneurs and well-known chefs are fighting to turn this new fashion into a very popular trend in our country. It doesn’t matter that they can’t cook on wheels – this new restaurant concept seems to be a good option for a country where people live in the street. More info: www.sigaelfoodtruck.com
Rocambolesc
Located in the gourmet experience area of the El Corte Inglés department store near Serrano street, this new corner gives the people of Madrid the opportunity to taste the ice cream served at El Celler de Can Roca (the best restaurant in the world) without having to travel to Girona. There’s no point in describing how good this ice cream is … you simply have to try it! More info: www.rocambolesc.com
El colmado de Mama Campo
A new biological food shop in Olavide square, Madrid. With the idea of rediscovering traditional flavours and encouraging the consumption of healthy and natural food, the new shop offers a variety of products from small farmers and producers who take care of the environment. More info: www.mamacampo.es
34 //
European hotspots
LONDON hotspot KERB A masterclass in London’s booming street food business. By Nicola Hanley, Ketchum London.
As a self-proclaimed ‘foodie’, I can clearly remember my first experi-
As well as being known for the fantastic foodie events it puts on
ence of street food, when I was working out of our Chicago office.
around London, KERB has also become a hub for traders and mobile
As the clock ticked midday, the office was abuzz with my fellow
foodies. KERB aims to offer food traders a space where “new busi-
colleagues frantically making their way out for lunch, desperate to
nesses can start, communities can grow, flavours can be found and
get their hands on some delicious lunchtime treats at the Mac &
fun had!”
Cheese truck. It seemed a world away from my usual Pret sandwich or baked potato; one trip, one taste, and I was hooked!
After KERB recently introduced a membership fee for its traders, speaking to The Huffington Post, Petra Barran commented “It’s
I rushed back to London and proclaimed to my colleagues “Food
something that lots of people want to be involved in and we want to
trucks are the future”. Less than twelve months later, I was proven
encourage that, but we’re getting more fussy about who we accept.
right, with everything from tasty falafel wraps to Pad Thai noodles
We’ve started charging a membership fee and have become more
being offered from pop-ups and takeaway vans across the capital.
professional. We want membership to be a seal of quality. We want
Street food had arrived!
to democratise good food. The idea of ‘street food’ is being trendified as a career option. But we’re saying: let’s leverage this!”
So, whilst it may not be an entirely new concept in 2015, one street food collective has embarked on a mission to ‘make London taste
KERB street food market currently appears at London’s West India
better’ – creating a new kind of street food market for London. KERB
Quay, Spitalfields Market, the Gherkin, King’s Cross, Paddington,
describes itself as a “curated crew of talented traders” serving
South Bank and Riverside. //
menus in the city’s most iconic spaces every day of the week. KERB was founded by Petra Barran – a woman who has been widely credited as driving London’s biggest food revolution in recent years.
Further information at www.kerbfood.com.
Food contacts
// 35
contacts Global Practice Linda Eatherton, Partner/Director Global Food and Nutrition Practice, USA (Chicago) linda.eatherton@ketchum.com // +1-131-222-86919 European Practice Tara Munday, see UK (London) European contacts Austria (Vienna) Pepita Adelmann, Senior Consultant pepita.adelmann@ketchum-publico.at // +43-1-71786-108 Belgium (Brussels) Hilde Ransschaert, Account Director hilde.ransschaert@ketchum.com // +32-2550-0055 France (Paris) Christelle Lepiètre, Senior Account Executive christelle.lepietre@ketchum.fr // +33-333-315332-5535 Germany (all offices) Natalie Haut, Managing Partner natalie.haut@ketchumpleon.com // +49-69-24286-126 For information about Brandzeichen, a Ketchum company, please contact Lena Thywissen, Office Director Hamburg lena.thywissen@brandzeichen-pr.de // +49-20-7611-3632 Italy (Milan) Paola Chiasserini, Senior Consultant, Head of Food & Nutrition Area, paola.chiasserini@ketchum.com // +39-02-62411973 Netherlands (Amsterdam) Tim de Boer, CEO, Ketchum Amsterdam tim.deboer@ketchum.com // +31-20-487-4000 Russia (Moscow) Maria Losyukova, Account Director maria.losyukova@ketchum.com // +7-495-664-2888-205 Spain (Madrid) Ana González, Associate Director Bildnachweis Yasmine Cordes – Illustrations: p. 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, 17, 21, 22, 23, 26, 36 · Fotolia/stockWERK: p. 6 · unsplash/LuisLlerena: p. 8 · Sindelar: p. 9 · BEEF!/ Gruner + Jahr: p. 10 · essen&trinken/Chefkoch/BEEF!/Gruner + Jahr: p. 12, 13 · Hans Gerlach: p. 14 · www.pexels.com: p. 15 · Armando Franca: p. 17 · Yasmine Cordes: p. 18 · www.stock.tookapic.com: p. 19 · Ketchum: p. 20 left and middle · Emmas Enkel: p. 20 · Fotolia/exclusive-design: p. 24 · Fotolia/alexionas: p. 25 · Fotolia/Ulia Koltyrina: p. 26 · Steve Cukrov: p. 27 · www.hypebeast.com: p. 28 · Luke Day: p. 29 · EXPO Milano 2015: p. 30 · Fotolia/Sergii Figurnyi: p. 31 · Max Pett: p. 32 · www.sigaelfoodtruck.com: p. 33 left, www.facebook.com\Mama.Campo: p. 33 middle · www.jamasvolvereapasarhambre.wordpress.com: p. 33 right · www.kerbfood.com: p. 34 left · www.facebook. com/kerbfood: p. 34 right
ana.gonzalez@ketchum.com // +34-91788-3203 UK (London) / European Practice Tara Munday, Director European Food and Nutrition Practice tara.munday@ketchum.com // +44-207611-3632 // +44-791257-8511
2015
Get in touch Twitter: www.twitter.com/ketchumpr
Ketchum Pleon GmbH Westhafenplatz 6 60327 Frankfurt Concept and realisation: Natalie Haut, Managing Partner, Frankfurt
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Design concept + illustration: Yasmine Cordes Layout and production: Christian Decker, Matthias R端bel