KXYS "Kiss The Past Hello" Portfolio by Kevin Ray Pastrana

to my mom, i love you... forever.

G N

P E

N T A

E R

kiss the past

hello

A / W 2 0 1 6 CO L L E CT I O N

continuing with the exploration on breaking fashion codes, the KXYS autumn/winter 2016 collection entitled “kiss the past hello” represents the new attitude of the youth towards fashion - and subsequently the evolution of generations X & Y. an ongoing theme of KXYS is the blurring of gender by seeing them not as two separate ideas (his & her), but uniting them into a whole new concept (ours). departing from the visual of carnal, violent and inappropriate photographs of the youth, looking at how the youth of today reflects the rebels of the past in their own different ways; such as being different, rejecting norms and being more open to new ideas and how they incorporate that to fashion. resulting to an unusual perspective and contemporary way of styling. accustomed fit, cutting and interpretation are ignored to explore different silhouette shapes. a dull color palette is used to highlight better the shape. technical fabrics like 3D knit are used to keep a voluminous harmony expressing a “hyper” feel. superimposing and juxtaposing is key. the use of traditional costume fabric is to reference its origins like mens’ suits, as pleated skirts is to the school-girl look. this collection is the democratisation from traditional notions of construction and human thoughts that are often associated with fashion.

fabrics

PINSTRIPE WOOL SUITING 100% WO

CASHMERE WOOL 100% WO

COTTON 70% CO 30% PE

POLYESTER 100% PE

3D KNIT 50% CV 50% PE

SPANDEX 3% PE 97% EA

NEOPRENE 80% PA 20% EA

WOOLEN FELT 30% PC 70% WO

KNITTED ANGORA 100% WA

COTTON 100% CO

colors

BLACK 4C CHARCOAL GRAY 18-0601 TPX

PANTONE 7546 C

PANTONE 307 C

WARM GRAY 5C

WARM GRAY 1C

CLOUD CREAM 12-0804 TCX

TAOS TAUPE 15-1119 TPX

BRIGHT WHITE 11-0601 TPX

look 1

- FABRIC

- TRIMMING

- FABRIC

the silhouette of a pull-over is interpreted in an unusual way; as the neckline becomes the bottom half and vice versa. the sleeves that goes up, are worn down providing constrictions.

flaps are added to the a-line mini skirt to add more structure to its shape and to harmonize with the pinstripe fabric that is typically associated with menswear.

look 2

- FABRIC

another distortion of a pull-over; the element of constriction that also affects the fit of the garment is still present.

- TRIMMING

- FABRIC

sun-burst/accordion pleated skirt with an elastic waistband to adapt universally to body shapes. back invisible zip closure.

look 3

a classic tailored shirt combined with a long skirt to form a rather â&#x20AC;&#x153;old madameâ&#x20AC;?-style dress made modern with the sun-burst pleats and functional placket/zip fusion closure in the front.

- FABRIC

- FINISHINGS

look 4

- FABRIC

- BUTTONS

- FABRIC

an update to the classic costume pants; with an overlapping waist band (hook & eye closure), and lowplaced narrow pockets to create an interesting, bizaare stance.

- FABRIC

- BUTTONS

the garment is designed to cross the niche between a dress and a sweater. made of pure angora wool, it is entirely hand-knitted for a more natural and artisanal feel.

look 5

zoomed in detail of hook & eye closure

- FABRIC

- TRIMMING

the classic tailored jacket is played up with a feminine silhouette. sporty elements like ribbing, changes the garment itself, resulting to a hybrid coat.

look 6

- FABRIC

visualized as a t-shirt and pull-over hybrid, the asymmetrical hem is another play on the garmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective.

- TRIMMING

- FABRIC

- BUTTONS

a skirt designed to look like a tailored shirt worn unorthodoxly. an idea originating from the trend of tying a shirt down on your waist.

look 7

a side view of the invisible zip closure.

- FABRIC

a pleated dress mixed with masculine elements provided by the fabrication and bizaare pocket placement. cut with a unique 3-piece pattern, it features a fold-away flap which is simply a part of the overlong tube-top.

kiss the past hello autumn/winter 2016

zoom in view on pocket

invisible back zip closure

FABRIC:

NEOPRENE

NEOPRENE a jumpsuit made to look like what “seems to be” just an oversized t-shirt. the starting point; from clothing basics.

FABRIC/S: NEOPRENE

a development of the jumpsuit; designed after the silhouette of an oversized sleeveles t-shirt dress.

a constricting-fit, oversized t-shirt and maxi skirt. the idea of not giving priority to the fit is made possible with the use of stretch fabric.

low and narrow side pockets

FABRIC:

FABRICS:

COTTON POPLIN

NEOPRENE (T-SHIRT) CASHMERE WOOL (PANTS) another constricting oversized t-shirt paired with an updated version of the classic men’s costume pants.

side view (inseam)

a tailored shirt is revisioned into a jumpsuit. it features a functional button opening and finished with shirt finishes like felled seams.

functional “fly” opening

FABRIC:

COTTON POPLIN

FABRIC:

3D KNIT

FABRIC:

NEOPRENE the cropped top is modeled after the idea of a shrunken shirt, while paired with a pair of oversized a-line shorts. proportionality is ignored.

FABRIC:

CASHMERE WOOL

a jumpsuit originating from the visual of a massive pair of pants worn over, opened halfway and folded down.

a new silhouette of the pull-over is interpreted by seeing the garment come to life in another view. the pleated shorts are made more feminine with a fitted high-waist.

10 neckline is stretchy enough

FABRIC:

FABRICS:

COTTON POPLIN

3D KNIT SPANDEX (TRIMMING)

FABRIC: SPANDEX

FABRIC: SPANDEX the simple, loose pull-over is made interesting with the addition of tubular finishing. together with a gathered, billowing skirt that is made with a technical fabric to give a unique flow.

the crisp white tailored shirt is altered to a fit that is too small for menswear and too big for womenswear. a variation from the previous look.

neckline is stretchy enough

FABRIC: POLYESTER

FABRICS:

pleats are layered on top of bra

3D KNIT SPANDEX (TRIMMING)

invisible zipper is hidden in pleat

hook & eye closure inside

FABRIC: CASHMERE WOOL

FABRIC: POLYESTER the tubular finishings is again seen on the sleeveless cropped pull-over. a special accordion-pleating technique is used for the culottes which gives the illusion of rather a silhouette of a pleated skirt.

a standout from the collection, the bandeau is layered with accordion-pleated fabric to add movement to the look. a more casual pair of pants is made with a cuffed hem.

zoom in view on knitted inset sleeve

hem made to look like a shirt cuff”

FABRICS:

COTTON POPLIN (SHIRT)

CASHMERE WOOL (PANTS)

PURE WOOL ANGORA (KNIT)

with the ongoing blurring of gender, the tailored shirt is cut in a special a-line manner to adapt to any gender. the hem of the pants gets more exaggearted to express a “hyper” feel.

starting from the basic, the sweater is eventually knitted into a voluminous dress form. a stable balance between menswear and womenswear is maintained with the pairing of a tailored shirt.

“falling” collar effect

non-functional “fly” opening

FABRIC: PINSTRIPE WOOL SUITING hem made to look like a shirt cuff

FABRIC: COTTON POPLIN a superimposing of the “shirt-skirt” and an actual tailored shirt itself. an asymmetrical collar with fall gives the look a contemporary feel.

the fabrication is derived from the origins of classic men’s tailoring. however, as the top is visualized from the idea of a massive women’s mini-skirt, it gives this unconventional pairing a fresh new take on unconventional styling.

sloping half back

classic front button closure

FABRIC:

PINSTRIPE WOOL SUITING

CASHMERE WOOL

hook & eye closure inside

FABRIC: PINSTRIPE WOOL SUITING godets are inserted to the tailored jacket to give a feminine feel of drapery. a variety of the “cuff” hem shorts.

FABRIC: WOOLEN FELT the classic suit jacket it stripped back and reconstructed to a garment with an edge. the sloping back is done as an hommage to the skeletal structure of the jacket. the same a-line cut shorts are available in a different fabric variety.

zoom in of biais finishing

FABRIC/S: POLYESTER (STRETCH)

FABRIC: flap stitched up in back

RIBBED WOOL KNIT

zoom view of back slit

a tank top is distorted and worn instead as a stretch-fit dress, in which the armhole becomes the neckline and vice versa (as seen throughout the collection).

FABRIC: PINSTRIPE WOOL SUITING a development of the previous jacket, this coat features a fauxflap that resembles a shirt collar’s fall. a stretch-fit ribbed sweater adapts to whatever body type (big/small, men/women), thus makiing it universal..

leggings are paired to complete a whole stretch-fit look.

FABRIC: SPANDEX

hook & eye closure inside

FABRIC:

zoom in of hook & eye closure

NEOPRENE

non-functional tailored collar

FABRIC: WOOLEN FELT

FABRIC:

FABRIC: a “hyper”-sized version of the tank top dress, technical fabrics are used to hold the shape of the garment. godets are inserted to one side to make a more bizaare silhouette shape. the pleated shorts are more structurededicated with its fabrication.

PINSTRIPE WOOL SUITING the fusion of masculine and feminine fashion elements can again be seen with the use of manily menswear fabric in the feminine silhouette of the hybrid coat. the shorts are a variety from the previous look.

WOOLEN FELT

side view of invisible zip

FABRICS: PINSTRIPE WOOL SUITING COTTON (STRIPED) a combination of almost all of the elements of the collection, this jumpsuit comes from the idea of juxtaposing the tube top onto classic suit pants, mixed with mostly menswear elements (like the fabrication, flap and pockets) but still manages to stay gender-ambiguous.

shoes & accessories

KXYS “Pieter” a loafer imposed upon trainer soles. the combination between the formal and casual. comfortably-smart style. 1.25” height. leather upper, leather lining and man made sole. fits true to size. imported.

heel height:

2 inches -

1.5 inches -

2 inches -

KXYS “Zarikaye” oxford with stacked wooden heel and 2” wedged front platform leather upper and lining. the elevation of men’s oxfords to new heights. for the guy/girl who loves a good heel boost. fits a bit large. recommend one size down. made in the Philippines.

KXYS “Kaayla” exquisite balance and proportion. features a round emblem. a modern twist to the classic, sporty chic. 4” wooden block heel, 2” platform. patent leather upper, calf leather body, leather lining and man made soles and platform. fits true to size. made in the Philippines.

KXYS “Eddellita” lace up bootie with matte gray heel. moccasin-inspired design that works for any season. features elements of oxford shoe finishes. for girls who like to steal the show. 5” height, and 1.5” platform. suede leather upper, leather lining and man made sole. fits a bit large but narrow. a women’s shoe. imported.

KXYS “XXY” elevated men’s brogues shoes. features an inset front platform and intertwined heel structure for a stand-out architectural look. for anyone who wants to be different. 5” heel height and 3.5” wooden platforms. leather upper, leather lining, and man made sole. fits true to size but a bit narrow. a KXYS original. made in the Philippines.

KXYS “Leo” classic men’s loafers superimposed on Japanese geta-inspired soles. features a round emblem. for someone who dares every rule to be broken. 2.5” inset block platforms. leather upper, leather lining and man made sole. fits true to size. imported.

ACCESSORIES

bags

a straight-forward theme of playing on shapesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; perspectives is seen through the accessories for this collection.; this rectangular bag is made of 100% calfskin leather and has a magnetic button mechanism at the top handle. colors: lemon yellow black dimensions: 30 cm (l) x 25 cm (h) x 10 cm (w)

another box-shaped bag that is visualized as an envelope. it is made with 100% calfskin leather and is modernized with itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique trapeze shape (smaller at the bottom). it features a magnetic button mechanism for closure of the bag. colors: white black dimensions: 20cm (l) x 15 cm (h) x 6.5 cm (w)

jewelry

the gun brooch is designed to correlate to the rebellious idea of the collection. it is made of polished metal brass and features a stainless steel pin at the back. color: gold

made of thin polished metal brass, this choker features a circle-shaped ornament. the circle represents the distinct theme of the collection revolving around ambiguity, transparency, and openness to new ideas. colors: silver gold size:

universal (UN)

dimensions: 4.5 cm (l) x 3 cm (h) x 50 mm (w)

eyewear

the frames of the glasses are handmade with genuine animal horn which are then polished and protected with a gloss layer. the special design of the frame stands out with itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pointy, triangular bridge exterior. features a wide temple, and 5 barrel-hinged arms. colors: white black dimensions: 20cm (l) x 15 cm (h) x 6.5 cm (w) compatible to use with prescription lenses.

leather accessories

the flap feature is continued on to the accessories. triangular flaps are attached to the cuff and are enhanced with riveted holes, it is made of calfskin leather. the cut is left raw edged and then burnished. finally, there are snap buttons as the closure mechanism. color: blue dimensions: 24 cm (l) x 5.5 cm (h) x 750 mm (w)

G R A D U AT I O N SHOW 2015

VULKAN MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ft. Jelle Smid @Marilyn Paris

this portfolio book was made possible with the guidance and help of these people:

pierre leimbacher vincent barile alexander muto some photos used in this book are copyrighted and published photos by:

larry clark jamie hawkesworth bruce weber

THANK YOU. - K.P.

http://ww.kxys.com/