Cambodia CityLife issue#09

WIN!

Trip to Ho ng Kon DisneyLan g d Worth 600 USD

J u ly - au g 2011

INSIDE!

Wild

Cambodia Let's get lost on road 48

july-august 2011

contents

features

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New Discover, What’s New in Phnom Penh & Around Us

11

The Coolest Coffee In Town

30

The best Street Foods

32

Sunset Aerobics In Phnom Penh

49

Adventure Where Have You Been, Share With Us!

50

Skin Update A Brighter Future For Skin

64

Engage

34

>

Let Get Lost On Road 48

On the cover Poy Yoipon

july-august 2011

contents

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11 Travel Information

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Brief of all amazing for your country escape, Australia, Austria, Britain, Brunei, Dubai, China, Mexico, New Zealand, Singapore, Philippines, Singapore, Spain, Thailand, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey, Macau, Taiwan, France, HongKong, Germany, Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Macau,

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mini guide july-aug 2011

flashback

Recommendation of all the stunning places in Cambodia and other cities. Phnom Penh, Sihanouk Ville, Siem Reap, Koh Kong, KomPot, Kep, Battaambang, Mondulkiri, Rattanakiri, Saigon, Bangkok, Vietian.

Recover all the what happened of last calendars. See what activities you missed!

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Pubisher’s note FROM VIBOL PHAN

SUMMER IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER WITH THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS JUST AROUND THE CORNER, it’s time to start planning that well-deserved break. If, like me, your idea of a perfect holiday revolves around a palm fringed tropical island, some place far enough away from your workaday routine, yet not so remote that you have to forgo life’s little luxuries, then this issue of Citylife is sure to inspire.

We also visit the Road 48, where a road trip through Thma Sa reveals a region rich in sights and serendipity. And in Poy Yoipon, on our first trip to the small town, experiences our own set of unforgettable moments, from a moonlight at the seaside, to an encounter with the muddy road.

Mind you, if lazing on a hammock or cooling off in a impossibly blue lagoon is all you’re after, then checking to one of Cambodia most untouched islands might be the ticket. In our next issues we will feature the gem island of Cambodia, as the rain stop falling. You be the judge. As for me, I’m already start packing my bags for the summer island hopping.

Vibol Phan Editor, CityLife Guide Magazine vibol.p@veromediadesign.com

Delighting You Always

1 2 3 6 2 5 2 7 7 7 7 8 5 8 8 8 6 5 9 9 9 9

new

discover

what’s new in phnom penh & around us

“No one can understand the truth until they smells and drinks of True coffee’s freshly ground heaven”

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new

discover

the coolest

coffee IN TOWN True Corp launched its first franchise True Coffee shop in Cambodia. Overall cafe atmospheres located in prime area of corner Monivong Blvd and offer various kinds of services beside beverages and food. True coffee shop designed to reflect True’s cherished concept of lifestyle convergence.

Venues for business group, trendy people and students, where they can surf the broadband/Free Wifi Internet while enjoying the True Coffee taste! We believe community is at the heart of a great coffee shop.

Do you want to know how to find the best coffee makers steps by steps: From the earth to the cup. #213, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Monorom, Khan 7 Makara, Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel # +855 23 885 193 / Open Daily: 7AM-11PM

new

discover

where to satify your CRAVING FOR

pinoy food IN CAMBODIA

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try the best coffee, pastries in

luckafe diamond island People from all corners of Phnom Penh, flock to this coffee shop every weekend to have breakfast.

Located in the heart of Diamond Island, Luckafe is one of a kind shops had their own ways of making the drink. They used local and imported quality beans out of which they made an extremely strong brew. This led to great innovations such as the cappuccino which features coffee with lots of steamed milk and other different flavors of the drink with sweet pastries.

Luckafe shops have been inspiring all the little coffee shops you see all around Cambodia ever since the good old days. Much of the different coffee drinks on the menu have been taken directly from the menus of the local and international coffee shops.

Today there are many coffee shops that seek to model their cafes. They try and build up a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere that is trademark of the luckafe houses. This is why today coffee is one of the most widely consumed beverages and it is popular in all social classes as well as age groups. In fact coffee shops have become the ideal hang out spots for the youth of today.

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Koh Pich, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Khan Chamca Mon, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

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Get in shape with phokeethra sports club

sofitel

at phnom penh phokeethra

Located on the glittering Phnom Penh Strip, Phokeethra Sports Club puts you in the heart of the action. The place offering the most popular and progressive facilities, services and programming combined with personalized service in an atmosphere of unprecedented comfort and convenience.

Furthermore all the trainers have knowledge and expertise of body shaping and they are fully devoted to the principle of “helping customers and members keep the best shape�.

It is vital to stay in form and fitness club memberships can be important. To enhance the enjoyment of members the Club includes such programs as fitness and social activities, personal training and several weight management programs.

Phokeethra Sports Club is one of the most popular fitness clubs in Cambodia with an area of 1.200 square meters it provides variety of sports activities with well-equipped and modern high-end facilities.

You can experience the outdoor pool, floodlit tennis facilities featuring four courts, two squash courts, a kids club, a studio room with activities such as yoga, pilates, step delight, low impact, Zumba, Khmer dancing, and a clubhouse where you can recharge with a healthy menu of juices, light bites, and creative cocktails.

The mission of the Sports Club according to the Manager Mr. Chea Sothearith Charles is to provide quality experiences through services and facilities to our members, their families and guests for the enjoyment of the finest sports activities, tennis, swimming, and dining while maintaining the integrity of the private Sports club community.

The Club’s vision is to be the premier private sports club in Cambodia.

Please call for membership pricing information.

Phokeethra Sports Club Manager: 016 869 939 Head of Receptionist: 017 611 877 or 023 999 200 ext. 6528 H6526-FO8@sofitel.com 26 Old August Site Sothearos Boulevard Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Khan Chamkamorn 12301 Phnom Penh, CAMBODIA.

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The guide the inside track on where to go and what to do

18 > next stop 20 > after dark 21 > spa goer 22 > top tables 23 > calendar 24 > outdoors

Exploring the best of Hua Hin’s up-and-coming area Page 18

Pluse: >Three Restaurants in review

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The guide next stop

Clockwise from left: Dusit thani Hotel; Hua Hin Beach; Moon Smile & Platoo; Oceanside Beach Club; Night Market; Chiva-Som Spa.

A TESTS

OF HUA HIN

Exploring the best of Hua Hin’s up-and-coming area

english teachers the two Mexican American cousins decided to open an authentic Mexican restaurant.

Come to Margaritas to experience a Authentic tasting Mexican meal.

Also do not forget to try one of the amazing Margaritas for which the restaurant gets its name!

(03251-16675; Second block of night market 90-1 Dechanuchit Rd).

Moon Smile & Platoo’s The food is superb with a large menu to choose from. The quality of food and presentation is excellent. Price is fantastic value for money and I don’t think you could have a bad dish here,it all looks and tastes delicious.

Many people have all been very impressed. The staff are all really lovely...very friendly and attentive.

The owner has an amazing smile to welcome you into her restaurant. She is a lovely lady and is very busy doing

the cooking herself but will always acknowledge you arriving and leaving. It’s extremley popular, so it well be very busy especially in the evening but hang around and you won’t wait long for a table as people coming and going all the time.

Moon Smile & Platoo is at (03251-1664; Poolsuk Rd).

Ye Olde Buffalo Tavern’s Ye Olde Buffalo Tavern served an excellent Australian rump steak with two huge freshly grilled prawns, fried potatoes and onion rings. The meat was nothing but absolutely outstandingly excellent, the prawns likewise and the condiments well prepared.It is not gourmet food, but good ol’ unpretentious home cooking with high quality raw materials and and a clever chef. Staff was friendly but slightly ignorant and prices bordering to slightly above reasonable for a meal of this kind. All in all a very good experience and we will most likely be back. (03253-0087; Chomisn and Naresdamri Rd).

Oceanside Beach Club& Restaurant’s This is a recommended place if you are looking for a place with great selection of dishes (thai and mediterranean), you can always find a simple and very nice Thai and Western dishes at a very attractive, grills are also very nice. Wine is priced affordably, just starting from 900 bahts, nice cushions and giant moonbeds for after dinner cocktails - they also have their own house-cocktail with thai touch, very creative. Design and ambience is the best, where you can sit back

and relax, listening to the wave of the sea. (03253-1470; 22/65 Nahb Kaehat Rd).

Sang Thai Seafood’s There are several seafood restaurants built out on jetties on the seafront side of Naresdamri road in Hua Hin, they’re all worth a visit but our favourite remains Sang Thai Seafood, the last one on the right before the fishing quay. Generous, often fiery dishes chosen from well-illustrated English or Thai language menus. Fresh local seafood, particularly if you choose it from the large concrete tanks on your way in. They’ve strengthened the woodwork over the beach (possibly after losing a customer or two), service is informal and friendly.

Not the cheapest option in Hua Hin (nor the most expensive) but the large number of Thai diners suggests that this is seafood cooking as the locals like it. Which doesn’t mean that all the dishes will set fire to your mouth - there are plenty of blander options on the menu. (03251-2144; Fishing Pier, Hua Hin).

WHERE TO SHOP Hua Hin Night Market, Situated in the Hua Hin centre between the Petchkasem Road and the railway line, the market basically encompasses one street that comes to life from 18:30 onwards, when traders line the street with their stalls selling various apparel, crafts, art, CDs, DVDS and cheap, tasty food – generally what you might expect from a Thai market. This is by no means the best place to shop in Thailand; you will finder a bigger variety of goods in Bangkok or say, Chiang Mai.

However, Hua Hin does have a superb selection of seafood restaurants that line the road that hosts the Night Market, drawing a lot of attention from visitors eager to feast on the quality dishes on offer. (Sa Song Rd, Coner of Thanon Dechanuchit Rd, Hua Hin).

new supermarket for the needs of a slowly-growing expat community, Thai people are known for their skills and craftsmanship. So be on the look-out for some local crafts like shell work, printed fabrics and carvings even, sold by some beach vendors and at a few places in town. The best it gets around here is the discount Premium Outlet where branded items can be bought for a fraction of the price you would pay in Bangkok’s department stores. This attracts many Bangkok shoppers eager for a bargain.

Beyond this there are a couple of market experiences where you can soak up the local way of life and try some tasty food. If you are looking to buy souvenirs then head right on down to the Beach Road where there is an assortment of handmade Thai crafts.

WHERE TO GET TREATED Chiva-Som International Health Resort This resort regularly attracts the rich and famous to its 57 private Thai-style pavilions. Hailed by the readers of Conde Nast in 2002 as the ‘Best Destination Spa in the World’, it has won numerous other awards over recent years. (03252-6536; 73/4 Phetchakasem Rd).

Six Senses Hideaway Hua Hin Six Senses Spa provides a truly relaxing and revitalizing experience with treatment salas situated around tranquil water pools surrounded by virginal greenery. Offering a complete menu of therapeutic treatments and lifestyle programs to reinvigorate the senses, all products used are natural. This world renowned spa also has a shop where you can purchase coffee table books and products. (03263-2111; 9 Moo 5 Paknampran Beach).

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The guide after dark

Barcode Pub

toast of

Saint-Tropez Lounge

the town A quartet of nightspots on the fringes of Phnom Penh are reshaping Cambodia night scene. the Lounge The Riverhouse Lounge is a place for the young, the cool, the hip. We are one trendy club in Phnom Penh. With live DJ music every night of the week, monthly theme parties and events, the Riverhouse Lounge proves itself to be THE Khmer Party Place of the city. It all happens on our funky dancefloor where the town’s best DJs keep our party-goers strutting their stuff and on their toes all night long with our mix of the best music and a relaxed environment.You can dance the night away or drink, dine and kick back on our comfy sofas in the VIP area. Or should you prefer a more laid-back evening, enjoy the river breeze on our balcony and sip a drink as you relax to the panoramic river view.

We offer a tantalizing array of cocktails, which our experienced barmen will whip up for you in a breeze. Corner St. 110, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, 012 299 161

Le Moon Le Moon is probably the most beautiful spot in Phnom Penh.

It’s a place where you can lounge on a comfortable chair, sip an exotic cocktail and look down on a spectacular view of the riverside, the palace and the bustle of the city below. This sophisticated bar opened in late 2010 on the roof of the Amanjaya Pancam hotel on the corner of Sisowath Quay and rapidly became a favourite chill-out spot for both visitors and locals alike. As the sun goes down, there’s no beating the stunning nighttime vista and the swank lounge atmosphere – or the list of cocktails – in the city’s first real roofbar. Nibble on hot and cold tapas – salmon blinis, prawn-wrapped bacon, chicken satay or potato wedges – from the comfort of a grey wicker padded chair as you drift the night away. 1 street 154 Preah Sisowath quay, Phnom Penh, 023219579 Pontoon Lounge Pontoon first opened it’s doors in 2006 and was a breath of fresh air for Phnom Penh’s nightlife.

Offering a chic and contemporary cocktai lounge experience floating on the majestic Tonle Sap river.

It was an instant hit with the young and trendy ex-pats of the city who had been looking for a less commercial night out. Pontoon is now Phnom Penh’s premier venue showcasing the talents of both local ex-pat DJs and visiting international DJs every Friday and Saturday night.

Yes the scenes still in it’s infancy, but rest assured we are constantly hunting for new DJs to advance the music and the scene. Now it has move to St172, Phnom Penh, (0)17 682 071 Equinox Bar More than just a bar, Equinox organize many cultural and social events including social dancing every Wednesday (Salsa) and Thursdays (Swing), eclectic live music programming on the week ends, monthly art exhibitions.

Located in one of Phnom Penh’s popular streets, Equinox is a two stories bar with happy hours on draft beer and cocktails 5pm-8pm, a pool table and the only “Bonzini” foosball table in town.A popular place for steaks, pizzas, coffee, cocktails and draft beer. #3A, st 278 Phnom Penh, 092791958

The guide spa-goer

EVERYONE KNOWS A CAREFULLY selected array of Scrub, Hot Oil, Facial, and Treatment can help a girl look her best. But are there jewels as effective in creams scrubs, and oils as they are in gold or platinum setting? Find out for yourself with there dazzling spa treatments.

Ayurlomi Hot Oil Massage Combine a luxurious ancient healing technique developed in India and Hawaii where warmed Aromatic oils corresponding to individual are used in a full body massage to alleviate muscle fatigue, tension, and improve circulation.

The Ayurlomi hot oil massageat Amara Spa. (023-998-730/023998-731); amaraspa. hotelcara.com, corner of Sisowath Quay, st 110.

Diamond Plolinum Mask

When used in mask, diamond dust is credited with refining, smoothing, and polishing the skin, slowing the aging process, and generalyy helping your skin to shine with jewel-like brilliance.

The Diamond Plolinum Mask at Nata Spa (023-223-938/016-405-360); 29, St 302, Boeng Keng Kang I.

Body Scrub

Tamarind-Honey-mike: Tamarind is used for whitening agent for the skin. Honey nourishes and moisturizes the sking. Honey-Sesame-Mint: Invigorating the skin with mint honey nourishes and moisturizes the sking at Aroma spa (023-688-68888); contacts@aromaspa4u.com, No 84A, St 214.

BE JEWELED A guide to the region’s most blinged-out spa treatments.

Green Tea Body Scrub

Inspiration that combines luxury and the sincerity and warmth of a woman’s touch, hospitality that best describes Cambodia femininity, with Preah Thorani (Goddessof the Earth) as it’s inspiration at U & Me Spa (016-880-088); No 383 Sisowath Rd; or Riveside at No 229 Sisowath Rd (016-200-718).

Khmer herbal Massage

At ChamPei, the path to good health is a vital and essential journey for everyone. A relaxation, rejuvenation and romance.

ChamPei is the perfect place to bring your dream to life at ChamPei I (023-222-846; No. 38, St 57 BKK I or ChamPei II at No. 7, St 334 BKK I july-august 2011 citylife (023-217-774).

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The guide top tables

Stuffed chicken breast wrapped bacon with morel risotto at RedApron Wine & Lifestyle Lounge

Files Angsoir at LamuTum Restaurant

Oyster Grilled at Sovanna Restaurant

Red Apron Wine & Lifestyle Lounge Upstairs, the Wine and Lifestyle Lounge also provides tasting and accomodation between meals and wines. Competitive prices. An orginal idea, appreciated by the amateurs is to propose the wine associated with specifics dishes or adapted to the seasons. Then the consumer is feeling free to make his own choice. To appreciate and enjoy in the Wine Lifestyle Lounge.

Lamutum Restaurant,Their selection of famous Khmer Cuisine will captivate your eyes and your taste, really when it comes to authentic foods Cambodia is one of the best, the Khmer Chef of the restaurant will make every guest to crave with all the foods they will serve, and with the combination of the smile of the crews what else you can ask for. The standard of the place will be a great venue for all kind of celebration. #95 corner St. 386, Phnom Penh

Sovanna Restaurant didn’t seem like somewhere for the “machoo Khmer” elite to arrive flanked by armored elephants, nor somewhere for idiotic drunken motodops. In short, it caters for those in the middle the expanding Khmer middle class (mostly this means whole families and even sometime a couple of Khmer women dinners) having a jolly old time, and that’s probably why it’s doing so well. #2C, St. 21, Phnom Penh

#15-17Eo, Street 240, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 990951

The guide calendar

AT META-HOUSE

6/07

“GENIUS WITHIN”: THE INNER LIFE OF FAMOUS PIANIST GLENN GOULD 7PM: The Canadian pianist Glenn Gould, who died at 50 in 1982, has been a figure of fascination since he burst onto the classical music scene, with startling virtuosity and an unusual brand of flamboyance, in the 1950s. His interpretations of the piano repertory the work of Bach in particular were fresh and provocative, and his self-presentation was both matinee-idol charismatic and winningly odd. .

13/07

9/07

“RED WEDDING”: FORCED MARRIAGES UNDER KHMER ROUGE 7PM: Between 1975 and 1979, at least 250,000 women were forced into marriages by the Khmer Rouge.

Sochan Pen is a 48 year old poor woman farmer. At the age of 16, she was forced to marry a Khmer Rouge soldier.

10/07 7/07

“FUTURE SHORTS”: THE BEST OF INTERNATIONAL SHORT FILMS 7PM: FUTURE SHORTS connects audiences around the world with the best in short film. This month it will screen five SE Asian cities incl. Phnom Penh. The festival features a selection of local flicks and films from the world’s most pioneering filmmakers. Amit Dubey is an Indian American who was working as a Software Engineer, and his passion for cinema drove him to start making films.

8/07

NEW VIETNAMESE CINEMA: “BI, DON”T BE AFRAID” & “THE TERRACE” 7PM: In recent years, as Vietnam’s film industry has modernized and moved beyond government-backed propaganda films, contemporary Vietnamese filmmakers have gained a wider audience.

PS >

BOLLYWOOD STAR CINEMA: “7 KHOON MAAF”: 7PM: Susanna is dark, magical, evil to some and mysteriously charming to the others. She also harbors a secret, known only to her and her faithful companions. Will her everlasting quest for love ever come to an end?

12/07

MAKING A DIFFERENCE: FEMALE POLITICIANS IN ASIA PM: Eva Mulvad’s documentary ENEMIES OF HAPPINESS (58 mins, 2006, English subs) follows the outspoken and successful campaign of Malalai Joya, a 28 year-old Afghan woman running in the country’s first democratic parliamentary elections in 35 years.

The elections represented a special milestone for Afghan women, who had endured secondclass citizenry their entire lives.

“A FILM UNFINISHED”: JEWISH FILMMAKER EXAMINES NAZI PROPAGANDA 7PM: Adolf Hitler’s german Nazi regime produced many films to promote its views.

Yael Hersonski’s powerful documentary A FILM UNFINISHED (2010, 88 mins, English subs) achieves a remarkable feat through its penetrating look at the now-infamous Naziproduced film about the Warsaw Ghetto.

14/07

ART EXHIBITION OPENING: “GLOBAL HYBRID: ONE PLUS TWO” 6PM: “Global Hybrid” is an independent, cross-cultural group of Cambodian and US based artists, initially conceptualized and on-going since 2008. Numerous links between past venues in Long Beach, Californiaand Phnom Penh and its artists continues.

26/07

DOCUMENTARY ABOUT WILLIAM S. BURROUGHS: “A MAN WITHIN” A tender and vibrant portrait of the life and work of the Beat author and American icon, WILLIAM S. BURROUGHS: A MAN WITHIN is an intimate documentary that breaks the surface of the troubled and brilliant world of one of the greatest authors of all time.

Burroughs was one of the first writers to break the boundaries of queer and drug culture in the 1950’s.

For more information please visit: www.meta-house.com 023 224 140 | 010 312 333 | #37, Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh.

27/07

BROTHER NUMBER TWO CONFESSES: “ENEMIES OF THE PEOPLE”7PM: Winner of this year’s “Sundance Festival”, the must-see-documentary ENEMIES OF THE PEOPLE (2009, 93 mins) is a personal journey into the heart of darkness by Khmer journalist Thet Sambath, whose family was wiped out in the Killing Fields.

28/07

GREEN NIGHT: CAMBODIAN ENVIRONMENTALISTS GET TOGETHER 6PM: 2011 ways to save the environment! SMART MOBILE, META HOUSE, KAMWORKS and the NGO GERES invite you again to a night full of good ideas and creative approaches.

29/07

TWO EVENTS: “REDLIGHT” AND PIANO RECITAL WITH STEPHAN RAHN 7PM: A powerful feature documentary about child sexploitation, REDLIGHT (2009, 72 mins, Cambodian/ English with English subs) focuses on the personal stories of young Cambodian victims and two remarkable ad vocates for change,grassroots activist Somaly Mam and politician Mu Sochua.

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The guide out doors

Cyclists can look forward to deep forest, mountain roads throughout Cambodia.

TWO-WHEELING CAMBODIA A series of scenic bike routes lie within easy strking distance of Cambodia.

HEMMED BY DUSTY ROADS and within pedaling distance of Cambodia, Phnom Penh or Siem Reap makes an ideal hub for bicycle touring. Admittedly, not every vista cries out for a photo op-most rides, at some point, run up against gritty construction sites, dilapidated housing blocks, or traffice. But all that makes you appreciate the better scenery ahead. So grab a good road map from any bike rental shop, quiz your concierge, limber up, and get ready to experience a side of Cambodia that most visitors miss. There are plenty of routes to choose from.

ISLANDS OF THE MEKONG (30KM) Away from the tuk tuks, the motorbikes, the massages, the pizza and the bars, is a truly unique experience. It’s as simple as going on a pedal through the Mekong

Islands that lie just north of Phnom Penh. Return to the city with a new view on Phnom Penh and on Cambodia. Cross the river by boat and take in this relaxing 30km ride through Cham Muslim communities on quiet back roads to reach the Mekong Islands. On the islands, cycle through orchards and market gardens. Enjoy the peaceful farmland and learn about the lives of the people who live here.

THE OUDONG TRAIL (60KM) The capital of Cambodia is a rapidly changing place, with development of the city being felt by those who are its poorest. Among projects planned for the country, the re-development of the railway in the not too distant future will mean more disruption to the lifestyles of the people who call this area home. This is the reality of a

swiftly developing country. Our ride gives you an opportunity to witness all this and to see the contrast of dense city life and spacious and simple country life. if you have a reasonable level of fitness and do some occasional riding, then this ride should be perfectly achievable and enjoyable.

The distance is approximately 60km on mainly flat tracks and small roads.

Your ride starts along the railway tracks out of the city. If we are lucky, we may see a great Cambodian invention, the Bamboo Train. This serves as a local railway in the absence of the real thing. As we leave the railway we will see some of the villages populated by people relocated from some of the major project areas in the city. We arrive at Oudong Mountain around lunch

The guide out doors

PEDAL PUSHING Above, from left: a short stop by for a breathtaking view of Kampot mountain; The author tacking the slopes of Kampot.

Visit www.grasshopperadventures.com to book your tours or call them on (012-462-165) No 29, St. 130 opposite the Indochine 2 Hotel, Phnom Penh. time. This towering temple is perched on a mountain that was the capital of Cambodia for around 200 years until it was moved to what is now Phnom Penh. Enjoy lunch here before we ride a little further to the highway and take a motor bike powered trailer ride back to Phnom Penh. This is how many factory workers travel to and from work every day and is a bit of fun to finish our day with.

BIKE THE ANGKOR TEMPLES (30KM) Escape the crowds, the busy roads and the well worn trail at Angkor.

Cycle the small tracks and minor roads to see a different side of the Angkor Temples. This is a guided tour of the most intriguing of the major temples. We visit Tha Prom, The Elephant Terrace and the Bayon as well as a couple of less visited ones along the way. We finish with

a ride on small trails through the villages and back to town. This is a truly enjoyable ride on a good bike with a friendly Cambodian cycling guide. If you can ride a bike, then you will love this ride. The distance is approximately 30km on mainly flat tracks and small roads. We will stop often for photos, temple exploration on foot and refreshments.

You will start with a ride out towards the main temple area on a small road following the river, we pay a visit to Angkor Wat, then cycle the main circuit road. We leave this and cycle at various times through different tracks leading past temples.

We visit Tha Prom, known commonly as the jungle temple, with tree roots attempting to reclaim the ruins. We then ride onto the Bayon, famous for its serene faces. From here we ride a red dirt road and then some great

small tracks back to town.

SIEM REAP COUNTRYSIDE RIDE (HALFDAY) Beyond the temples, join us for an easy ride through the Siem Reap countryside. Ride the quiet trails through rice fields and small villages.

We make lots of stops to learn about daily village life in Cambodia and to enjoy some delicious local snacks.

Connect with the real Cambodia.

You don’t have to be a regular rider to enjoy it. You will start with a ride out along the Siem Reap river, then leave the tarmac and ride on small dirt paths through the scenic countryside and friendly villages where children will be welcoming you with a hello from every angle. We complete a circuit that brings us

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National Road No. 6A. Khum Srornge, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia Reservation Telephone:+855 (0) 63 969 902| reservations@angkormiracle.com | www.angkormiracle.com

Cambodia’s Luxury Spa Resort Breathtaking Discoveries

Symphony of Intelligent Designed Impeccable Service

Angkor Miracle Resort & Spa

Discover

www.citylifemagz.com

Amazing Places

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street food

“To discover Cambodia culture and lifestyle is a great experienced”

Fried Beef Ball

I love street food! I know some people would always say, it can be unclean but so far I haven’t anything wrong with my stomach.

Street food here in Cambodia is plentiful and really varied.

I’ve observed eating along the streets is part of Cambodia culture. You can find places like along the streets set up their mini chairs and tables or mats spread everywhere. These places are crowded during the weekends especially near the riverside. And mostly they serve nom pang sandwiches, Fried meat balls, fried noodles, boklohong, and other finger foods which they serve lots of trimmings: fresh herbs, fresh cucumbers; a slightly sweet side of pickled cabbage with some carrot; a lime and a packet of mixed salt and pepper, plus fruit shakes.

When you see those small cart displaying fruits on the glass counters, they are like selling the fruit smoothies shake costs about $0.50. Cambodians favorite shake frothy with egg add up to make it more creamy and bubbly.

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Starbucks well they have it here in Khmer version. You can see in all corners, with reclining chairs and TV. They will refresh you with a glass or cup of coffee either black or iced blend with milk costs about $0.40 per order.

“Phnom Penh has a lot more to offer to travelers”

“So try to put some fun in your life!”

sunset Aerobics in

phnom penh Keeping fit and healthy in Phnom Penh has never been easier - there are plentiful gyms and health clubs, but you wouldn’t believe where you were as you walk down by the Independent Monument Phnom Penh, especially in the evening… Loads of people gather to do their exercise together. The crowd is mixed with many locals admiring the leader of the group young teenager men, set up his boom-boxes speaker that blast out catchy pop songs in parks specifically for the exercise routine. People swing their arms and legs, warming up with beat of dancing music.

The overwhelming majority of people are late-middle-aged women.

And they are there to dance.

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The informal evening classes have become hugely popular with thousands of people taking part each day. Those wanting to join in - who are regularly outnumbered by onlookers - pay around 25 cents a session.

At almost every park and basically any public area with room to dance, people show up every morning and evening to their daily workout.

The 25-year-old leader of one group said. ‘People want to exercise here with music to relax from their work and studies, and to be healthy.

“Have you ever wanted

to go to a place that is completely different than what you know?�

Photos by Chhun Marady

Poy Yoipon

Boutum Sakor National Park

Thma Sa

Wild

Cambodia Let's get lost on road 48

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july-august 2011 citylife

Photos by Chhun Marady

A mid month of June phone call started the planning for a high country Island trip. With the staff gathered around for the details of our trip were finalized. The purpose was to travel as many of the Koh Kong Island, passes as we would and camp. Pretty simple plan, except that rainy season. So sit back and ride along as Lexus car and Range Rover 4wheel drive as we take you along on our Koh Kong Extreme Adventure.

Photos by Chhun Marady

After stopping in Vietnamese restaurant for breakfast and Total for fuel supplies, we start off on the car to Toll gate Pass. Just a few hundred yards into the trip, we stopped at highway public restroom. The ride was fantastic, lots of laughter except when we check our gadget for pictorial; accidentally we forgot the special battery of the camera. So we decided to get to the town proper of Koh Kong to look for battery before proceeding to guide map plan. Unluckily we didn’t find store selling that kind of batteries.

We left Koh Kong town that took 7hours up over the high and down, pass massive muddy road and finally reached the first barge station to cross the river. We step down on the car and rest, while waiting for our car turn to get on barge it looks everybody is happy and excited in spite of empty stomach thinking upon reaching the place in our plan, were going to have big lunch, as for that moment we satisfy our tongue with sweet chili kompen reach.

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After 30minute two cars bumped into small, old and locally improvise ship using the car machine to run crossing the river. Peacefully we made it!

july-august 2011 citylife

Photos by Chhun Marady

Headed up to the map everyone wondering where on earth is that place.

Important rule in offroading, always make sure your partner car is in your view mirror (my friend who’s driving the range rover hate when he look back and they’re GONE!!!) playing in his mind if they are in trouble.

This is it! Wow! 3hours reaching the second river. Crossing the Poy Yoipon and heading down a small village as the trademark in the map to be followed. A big surprise shock everybody to be speechless, I can hear only the word (Oh No! Not again men!)

A view from the top, as they say, what goes up, must come down. Do you think we can make it? Yes for the range rover were a little bit scared but we know the car can make it. Our much concern is at the other lower car, amazingly they made it! But another worst thing cell phone service is getting bad and our contact person in the resort were we supposed to stay for 2nights, is unreachable, its getting more complicated but were still calm in spite of where in the middle of no way.

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july-august 2011 citylife

Photos by Chhun Marady

Photos by Chhun Marady

As the morning broke, everyone is ready to face and enjoyed the trials of nature. We decided to go back to our own world in the lowlands. Were expecting worst massive muddy road because of non stop rain, the guys are ready they have precautionary measure to pass the muddy hills safely, which still look dangerous.

Photos by Chhun Marady

Here we go! Sure hope the tie downs hold with the help of two strong buffalo, to push the Lexus car. Everyone is not breathing on that moment, a lot of negative things is playing in my mind, what if the legs of buffalo slipped or buffalo legs stuck in the mud too and when the buffalo sighted the car they sound like asking “What brings you here guys” and the only word I can say that time is push push! It’s like give birth on my part!

The road we ran are steep and dangerous and should only be traveled by highly experienced drivers and very capable vehicles. These roads are not very forgiving during rainy season.

Hope you enjoyed our adventure as much as we did!

I guess I should be thankful to buffalo for helping us face our fears!

AMAZINGLY WE MADE IT!

Photos by Chhun Marady

adventure

where have you been share with us!

As a Cambodian growing up in a rural area along the Mekong River, I am touched by ordinary daily life of people trying to adapt to their living conditions. My photos capture various slices of ordinary life that most rural Cambodians experience, offering a glimpse of something that we might not be ordinarily able to experience ourselves. With a graduate background in Human Development and Family Studies (M.S. & Ph.D.), I am fascinated by the way the family and people in general adapt to, socialize with, and express themselves throughout their daily routine within the social environment. This picture was taken during my trip to Siem Reap to see Bosbapanh’s show in February 2011, showing not just the iconic Angkor Wat image but also life around Angkor Wat. Name: Sothy Eng, Ph.D., Texas Tech University Postdoctoral Fellow: UCLA Nationality: Cambodian Currently a Professor at Lehigh University in Pennsylvania, USA

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y!

Hurr s e 20 Priz 0USD) orth 40 yLife w l a t o (T

by Cit swer n o w e to b just an y s a e . s reader estion below the qu

skin update

skin

a brighter future for

Few things are certain in life. And, unfortunately for most of us, unbalanced pigmentation is one of the things that you can count on! Whether if be those years of sun-worshipping, or the resuls of skin trauma, your skin tells the story of your life.

How to prevent hyperpigmentation?

• Skin color is mainly determined by the amount of melanin present in the skin.

Constitutive skin color is genetically inherited without any influence from sun exposure or hormones. Facultative skin color is the result of influences such as sunlight and hormones. Faculative skin color is the most treatable with skin care products and professional treatments.

• When treating hyperpigmentation, SPF30 must be worn every day.

Failure to wear SPF every day, even when UV exposure is unforeseen (overcast days, days spent mostly inside, etc.), will counteract treatment, causing hyperpigmentation to remain prevalent on skin.

Introducing

what are age spots?

Scientifically referred to as hyperpigmentation, age spots (or brown spots) are deposits on skin caused by an overproduction of melanin. Melanin is what gives color to our hair and skin: those with less pigment have lighter skin and hair, and those with more pigment have darker skin and hair.

While melanin is genetically determined, it can be heavily influenced by UV light or hormones. In the past decade, there has been an enormous surge in the desire to lessen the appearance of age spots, as research reveals they contribute as much to the visible signs of aging as a wrinkle.

An age spot by any other name…would still be brown.

So, that might be causing your unbalanced skin tone? Here are the top culprits Sun exposure The sun is the skin’s worst enemy, so it should come as no surprise that it’s the top pigmentation catalyst. The best way to prevent so-called “age spots” and freckles is to always apply proper sun protection, especially on children who’s skin is much more susceptible to permanent damage.

Hormonal imbalance Skin pigmentation is commonly unbalanced by pregnancy, birth control pills or other hormoneinfluencing factors. In facts, studies indicate that this affects up tp 75% of pregnant women. And about 30% of women on birth control pills. This is due to the influence of estrogen, progesterone and melanocytestimulating hormone. Often showing up in a condition calledthe “Mask of pregnancy” or melasma which is harmless.

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Skin inflammation Skin inflammation, usually related to a wound or to a contact allergy (such as poison oak), can sufficiently traumatize the skin into over-producing pigmentation. Darker skin tones usually suffer from this type if discoloration more severely, and for a longer period of time.

Birthmarks Birthmarks are genetically-inherited.

Because they frequently extend into the deeper layers of the skin (dermis), laser surgery is generally the only way in which to scientifically reduce their appearance.

Hydroquinone Hydroquinone, a skin whitening ingredient, while frequently used in the treatment of pigmentation disorders, has a myriad of side-effects that can include both hyper and hypo pigmentation.

Question: Name one of the causes to hyperpigmentation (brown spots)?

Simply email your answer to info@citylifemagz.com by 31 August 2011 and winner will be notified by email.

july-august 2011 citylife

Dedicated to results without compromising skin health, Dermalogica extensively researched the latest ingredient technology, searching for ingredients that would safely go beyond minimizing the appearance of hyperpigmentation.

Our research uncovered ingredients that would work synergistically by preparing skin to optimize reception of brightening actives, preventing formation of pigmentation on a cellular level, and protecting against further development of hyperpigmentation caused by environmental assault. This research has led to the development of ChromaWhite TRx, the only system that delivers visible brightening and improved skin tone while improving skin health. ChromaWhite TRx ensures you can treat your hyperpigmentation safely, without worrying about suffering from irritation or damage that can lead to premature aging.

Know your zones.

Skin Problem solved

Truly understanding your skin is the first step towards a lifetime of skin health. Send us your answer for the below simple question and you will stand a chance to win yourself a free Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis by our professional skin therapist and also a ChromaWhite Microzone treatment worth USD 20! 20 set of the prizes to be won.

Dermal Essentials (Cambodia) Pte Ltd, #23, St.310, Sangkat Boeung Keng Kang1, Khan Chamkarmon, Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Tel: 023 222 603 , E-mail: customersavvy@dermalogica-kh.com

?!!

More Fabulous.. coming Aug ‘11

salon

information

Australia

Austria

Britain

Brunei

Dubai

China

Australia Although it is the sigh largest country in the world, Austrailia also has the lowest population density at two people per square kilometer.

This means there are plenty of vast open spaces to explore along with vibrant cities, gorgeous beaches and the awe-inspiring great Australian outback TOURISM AUSTRALIA www.tourism.australia.com Austria is one of the world’s premier skiing regions. Apart from snowy slopes, it is also home to historical buildings, magnificent mountains, established hiking trails, museums and galleries.

TOURISM AUSTRIAN www.autria.info

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Britain Towering castles, quiet villages, ancient ruins, posh shops, top nosh… there’s so much to do in Britain, we reckon you’ll never ever want to go home!

VISIT BRITIAN www.visitbritain.sg

the finest facitlities and renowned Arabian hospitality. It is one of the fastest-growing cities with many innovative buildings such as The Palm, The world and Burj Dubai.

TOURISM DUBAI www.dubaitourism.ae

Brunei is a small, prosperous and peaceful oil-rich Sultanate on the northwest coast of Borneo. Covered in luxuriant and pristine tropical rainforests with exotic flora and fauna, it is an ecotourism paradise for nature lovers.

TOURISM BRUNEI www.bruneitrourism.travel

China has a rich history and is home to many of the world’s most revered treasures. Apart from historical monuments, you can find spectacular architecture and towering skylines in Shanghai and Beijing, a wealth of luxury accommodations and exquisite cuisine.

TOURISM CHINA www.cnto.org

Dubai is a great holiday destination, with year-round sunshine offering

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the

escape where the best place to stay away

Mexico

New Zealand

Philippines

Singapore

Spain

Switzerland

Mexico A trip to Mexico is an experience you’ll never forget. You could choose a romantic getaway, or take a cultural tour to learn more about the Mayans and Aztec. Enjoy shopping in the luxurious malls and be blown away by the fiery flavors of the cuisine.

MEXICO TOURISM www.visitmexico.com New Zealand With breathtaking scenery like white and black sand beaches, mountains, thermal mud pools and geysers, plains, forests, rivers and lakes, and volcanic plateax, being in New Zealand will make you feel like you’re in a whole new world.

TOURSIM NEW ZEALAND www.tourismnewzealand.com

Philippines The Philippines is the largest English-speaking country in the world and enjoys a rich history combining Asian, Spanish and American influences. It is also home to palm-fringed beaches, natural wonders like the Chocolate Hills of Bohol and some of the world’s best diving sites.

PHILIPPINES TOURISM www.philippinetourism.com.

Singapore Discover a world of unique contrast in this cosmopolitan and mutithnic city. Explore cultural precincts and religious landmarks, shop up to storm at quirky boutiques and swanky malls, hike up leafy walking trails and feast on food, glorious food!

SINGAPORE TOURISM www.visitsingapore.com

Spain offers more than just sundrenched shores and a thriving gastronomy scene. The passionate country is also where you can visit world-class museums, see gorgeous baroque architecture and explore world heritage sites and medieval towns.

SPAIN TOURISM www.spain.info Switzerland Apart from a gorgeous landscape of snowy peaks and sparkling lakes, Switzerland is also a one-stop destination to experience German, French and Italian cultures.

It is also home to about 700 museums and a thriving art scene.

SWITZERLAND TOURISM www.MySwitzerland.com

information

france

india

germany

indonesia

France Sea, Mountains, unspoilt greenery, and vineyards galore… these make France a prefect holiday destination. Twenty-six regions, each with its own character, architectural style and culinary genius await you in France.

FRANCE TOURISM www.franceguide.com/sg Germany Vibrant cities with amazing architecture, fabulous shopping and exciting nightlife daxxle in Germany.

Boasting enchanting medieval villages with festivals and regional specialities, picuresque countryside’s with caltles, palaces and abbeys, Germany is a land of a thousand possiblities.

GERMANY TOURISM www.discover-germany.sg/tourism.

hongkong

japan

Hong Kong From quaint teahouse to lively night markets; Hong Kong is a city of cultural and gastronomic attractions. Shop up a storm, hike up rural mountains, and drink in the magnificent skyline… And be sure to feast on the glorious spread of dim sum!

HONG KONG TOURISM www.discoverhongkong.com India Rich in culture and heritage, India is a land full of mystique, colour and life. From rugged deserts to serene backwaters and architectural wonders like the Taj Mahal, it is truly an incredible destination for intrepid travelers.

INDIA TOURISM www.incredibleindia.org

Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelago with over 17,000 island filled with both natural and manmade attractions. Explore ancient temples, traipse through bustling cities or get away from it all with a luxurious stay at one of many world-class resorts.

INDONESIA TOURISM www.my-indonesia.info Japan From ancient shrines and futuristic cities to mystic mountains and soaring skyscrapers, Japan offers a wealth of sights both old and new.

Be it geisha spotting in Kyoto or feasting on sashimi in Tokyo, there’s something for every traveler in the Land of the Rising Sun. JAPAN TOURSIM www.jnto.org.sg

the boutique of khme r www.royalempirehotel.com

Address: National Route 6, Airport Road, Siem Reap / Angkor.

Kingdom of Cambodia. Room Reservation Tel: (855) 63 969 599 reservation@royalempirehotel.com

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the

escape where the best place to stay away

malaysia

turkey

macau

taiwan

south korea

thailand

Princess Diamond

your style, your diamond #40Eo, St. 67 Sangkat Pshartemey II, Khan Daun Penh, Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel: 089 888 789 | 023 648 99 88

photo contest

winner

Issue 8 Winner

Markus Kover

photos vote your favorite

Vichheka Sok

Photo: The view of Sunset in the village of Location: Kampong Thom province

David Simon

Photo: A coupled kid in door Location:Kompong Chhnang

Sandrine BANNWARTH

Photo: life in a floating village Location: Siem Reap, Angkor

KimLong Meng

Photo: Ocher Teal Sun Set Location: Sihnaouk Ville

Victoria Schuller

Photo: Frame in Phnom Penh Location: Phnon Penh

Delighting You Always

To vote please send your E-mail to info@citylifemagz.com with the name of the pictures.

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engage guide

Xperia Play Mothers, lock up your gamers. The PlayStation phone has arrived.And while it’s a bit on the chubby side, we think that, for Sony Ericsson’s Xperia Play, big is beautiful. You could almost call the Xperia Play the shorter, fatter cousin to the svelte Xperia Arc, which Sony Ericsson once described as the “world’s thinnest smartphone.” At .62 inches, the Play looks positively bulky compared to its Xperia-line relatives — a veritable Jan Brady to the Arc’s Marcia. But Sony Ericsson had to make some trade-offs in size in order for the slide-out frame to hide the PlayStation controller underneath.

If you’re a gamer, it’s worth it. We felt right at home with the familiar PlayStation controller configuration — D-pad on the left, with the square, circle, triangle and X buttons on the right.

CANON G12

If you’re looking for a high performance camera with great image quality, you should get a digital SLR, right? Well yes, DSLRs are top-drawer picture-takers.

But they’re bulky and they weigh a ton. They also aren’t exactly the most discreet cameras out there put a long zoom lens on a DSLR and try to take it to a pro sporting event or a rock concert and, unless you have a press pass, you’ll be sent packing. A far less conspicuous and more portable option is the Canon PowerShot G12, a compact, consumer-style 10-megapixel camera with the photo skills of a serious pro model. Canon’s been making powerful, petite models in its G-series line for over a decade now, with the 3.3-megapixel PowerShot G1 premiering way back in September 2000.

TAG Heuer As far as most of us are concerned, if we're going to pay a lot for a phone -- you know, like, $350 on contract -- it had better come with the works. We're talking a qHD display, dual-core processor, 8 megapixel camera with 1080p recording, NFC, 1GB of RAM, 16GB of storage, and a 4G radio, to boot. If you're someone who buys things made by Tag Heuer, you've got different priorities. The company just introduced the Link Phone, a darling clunker of a handset festooned with steel, 18K rose gold, or titanium, topped off with leather, alligator- and lizard-skin, rubber, and diamond accents -- a medley that'll set you back no less than €4,700 ($6,712).

What's that you say? You want specs? The Link, named after the Swiss outfit's storied watch line, runs Android 2.2 -- a clear step up from its feature phone predecessor.

Other ho-hum features include the 3.5-inch (800 x 480) display, 5 megapixel autofocus camera, 256MB internal memory, an 8GB memory card, 1400 mAh battery, and EDGE / HSUPA connectivity. Tag Heuer also says it'll be particularly durable, though it's coming up short on specifics. Somehow, though, we don't think it will survive when we accidentally drop it in our gold-plated toilet.

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July-August 2011

mini guides Phnom Penh

SIEM REAP

SIHANOUKVILLE

KOH KONG

KOMPOT

KEP

BATTAMBANG

MONDULKIRI

RATANAKIRI

BANGKOK

VIENTIENE

SAIGON

from your magazine to your pocket

1

TEAR the guide out along the perforations...

2

FOLD the guide out along the first dotted lines...

3

FOLD again to make a handy pocket size guide

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam. Email us at

info@citylifemagz.com

and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

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nt ial esse

Emergency

hospitals |Clinic | Doctor

.Ambulance: 119 (from 023 phones) 023-724891 .Police Hotline 117 (from 023 phones) Tourist Police 097 7780002 .Child Abuse/ Exploitation Police Hotline 023 720555 .Fire 118 (from 023 phones) 012 786693

American Medical Center Hotel Cambodiana, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 991863

Calmette Hospital

Main Hospital #3, Monivong, Phnom Penh

Tel: 023 426948 Polyclinique Aurore Local clinic, local doctors. General medicine. Maternity clinic. X-ray and ultrasound. Reasonably priced. #58-60, Street 113, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 360152 / 012 779824

International SOS Medical & Dental Clinic

International standard medical clinic with full facilities. General medicine.

Emergency care. Pediatrics. Translation.

Evacuation. #161, Street 51, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 216911 / 012 816911 www.internationalsos.com

Naga Clinic

11, Street 254 Tel: 011 811175 www.nagaclinic.com

Pharmacies

Insurance

Courier

Pharmacie De La Gare

Asia Insurance (Cambodia)

DHL - Worldwide Express

#5, Street 13 Tel: 023 427981

#353, Street 110 Tel: 023 427726 Fax: 023 427680

#81Eo, Monivong Tel: 023 430205

U-Care

1) #26-28, Sothearos Tel: 023 222399 2) Sihanouk, corner of St. 55 3) Corner of Norodom Blvd & St.136 4) #844, Kampuchea Krom 5) #254 Monivong Tel: 023 222399 www.u-carepharmacy.com

International SOS Medical & Dental Clinic

International standard medical clinic with full facilities. General medicine. Emergency care.

Pediatrics. Translation. Evacuation. #161, Street 51, Phnom Penh Tel: 023-216911, 012-816911 www.internationalsos.com

Naga Clinic

Forte Insurance

#325, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 885077 www.forteinsurance.com

Infinity Insurance

#126, Norodom Tel: 012 800001 www.infinity.com.kh

Import&Export Intra Co. #2-3, Street 118 Tel: 023 211811

N.H International

11, Street 254 Tel: 011 811175 www.nagaclinic.com

#106, Street 310 Tel: 012 842964

Agrovet, #26, Street 294, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 216323

#28, Monivong Tel: 023 430922 Fax: 023 430923

Veterinarians

TNT

FedEx

#701D, Monivong Tel: 023 216712 Fax: 023 216721

TNT

#28, Monivong Tel: 023 430922 Fax: 023 430923

UPS

#27, Street 134 Tel: 023 427511 Fax: 023 366323

English Schools ACE (IDP) #46, Street 214 Tel: 023 212113

Home of English #30, Street 282 Tel: 023 220960

Once the ‘Pearl of Asia’, Phnom Penh’s shine was tarnished by the impact of war and revolution. But that’s history, and Phnom Penh has risen from the ashes to take its place among the cool capitals of the region.

why go?

Photo by Nick Sells

The sights of Phnom Penh are largely cultural and historical but only part of the experience exploring the city. Exotic shopping, unique dining, indulgent spas and a bit of nightlife complete the Phnom Penh experience. Set aside two or three days to see the major points of interest.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011 what is there to do?

It is possible to squeeze the most important sights into a single day, but this leaves very little time at each. Popular city sights include the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and the Khmer Rouge ‘Killing Fields,’ the National Museum, the Russian Market, Central Market and Wat Phnom. Except for the ‘Killing Fields,’ which is about 16km away, all of the major points are inside the city within a five or ten minute car/moto ride of each other.

Phnom Penh See

Eat & Drink

ROYAL PALACE

malis

1

with its classic Khmer roofs and ornate gilding, the Royal Palace dominates the diminutive skyline of Phnom Penh. It is a striking structure near the riverfront, bearing a remarkable likeness to its counterpart in Bangkok.

Address : Samdech Sothearos Blvd. Price : 25,000r Hours : 8-11am & 2-5pm

Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

NATIONAL MUSEUM

2

located just north of the Royal Palace, it housed in a graceful terracotta structure of traditional design (built 1917–20), with an inviting courtyard garden. The museum is home to the world’s finest collection of Khmer sculpture – a millennia’s worth and more of masterful Khmer design.

Price : 25,000r Hours : 8-11am & 2-5pm

WAT PHNOM

3

Set on top of a 27m-high treecovered knoll, Wat Phnom is on the only ‘hill’ in town. According to legend, the first pagoda on this site was erected in 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposited here by the waters of the Mekong River and discovered by Madame Penh.

6

Head up to the rooftop of Quay for big views, cooling breezes and happy hours (half price) from 4pm to 8pm. The cocktail list here is arguably the most creative in town, including zesty infusions like ginger and lemon grass.

Address: 277 Sisowath Quay Hours: 7am-11pm Royal Palace

Beef Lok Lak-Red Apron

The main entrance to Wat Phnom is via the grand eastern staircase, which is guarded by lions and naga balustrades.

Tuol Sleng Museum

4

S-21 has been turned into the Tuol Sleng Museum, which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. Entry is on the western side.

Address : St 113 Price : US$2, video US$5 Hours : 8am-5.30pm

Russian Market

5

Popular with expats and tourists alike picking up fake designer clothing, handicrafts, real and replica antiques and other knick knacks, and with locals who scout for clothing, hardware and fresh food.

Address : Central Phnom Penh Hours : 06:30 to 17:30

Boat noodle

7

This old wooden house, in a leafy garden brimming with water features, offers some of the best-value Thai and Cambodian food in town. With tasty noodle soups for breakfast and special set lunches each day, it’s worth a visit.

Address : St 294 Phone : 012 200426 Hours : 10am-10pm

Romdeng

Titanic restaurant

9

Good for: Child-friendly, Romantic, Groups, Business, Local cuisine, Outdoor seating, Special Occasion Dining, View, Entertaining clients Dining options: Lunch Spot, Dinner, Reservations.

Sisowath Quay | Riverside, Phnom Penh, Cambodia (855) 023 42 72 09

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Also under the Mith Samlanh Friends NGO umbrella, the elegant Romdeng specialises in traditional food from the provinces and offers a staggering choice of traditional Khmer fare.

Address : 21 Ph 278 Centra Phone : 23 219565

turn over for map and number locationS

MINI GUIDE PHNOM PENH

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there Phnom Penh is a fairly easy city to get around. Tuk-tuks’ have become quite popular in Phnom Penh,only $1-$2 for short trips and $10-$15 for the whole day.

Motorcycle Taxi (Motodup) ,can be found virtually everywhere in town, just step to the curb and they will find you. Motos cost from 4000R-8000R for a trip in town and $6-$8 per day.

Cyclo ride should cost about the same as a moto, is easier and cooler ride.

Motorcycles can be rented for $5 - $9/day. Choice Taxi,Meter taxi service. Available 24/7, Tel: 023-888023, 010-888010.

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep SOFITEL HOTEL

Plan your itinerary 11

is set amidst landscaped gardens in the city’s old quarter.

The colonial style hotel features a swimming pool and spa. The spacious rooms at Phokeethra Sofitel come with hardwood flooring and have plenty of natural light. Guests can work out at the fitness centre or enjoy a game of tennis.

Sothearos Boulevard T: +66(0) 2555 9999

Raffles Le Royal

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The most romantic and atmospheric hotel in Phnom Penh, the hotel retains an old-world colonial charm.

With 172 rooms are tastefully decorated in a Khmer and French colonial style, and spread across three interconnecting wings surrounding a stunning frangipani-littered garden courtyard and pool.

Rukhak Vithei, off Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh T: (023) 981 888

Hotel Cara

13

A short stroll from the heart of Phnom Penh, Hotel Cara exudes real style at an affordable price. Rooms are finished in contemporary Khmer design with original furnishings, and most include a balcony.

Opera Suite bedroom in Sofitel Phokeethra Phnom Penh -Luxury Hotel

The 51 rooms are smart and sleek without being superluxurious.

No.18, street 47 & 84, Sangkat srass chork ,Phnom penh, Cambodia T: +855.23 430 066

NagaWorld Hotel

14

is located in central Phnom Penh, close to CambodiaVietnam Friendship Monument, Silver Pagoda, and Independence Monument.

Nearby points of interest also include Royal Palace and National Museum.

Features.The property’s full-service health spa has massage/treatment rooms.

Complimentary high-speed (wired) Internet access is available in public areas.

Address: Samdech techo hun sen park, Phnom penh , Cambodia T:+855.23 228 822

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

At its heart, Siem Reap is still a little charmer, with old French shop-houses, shady tree-lined boulevards and a slow-flowing river. But it is expanding at breakneck speed with new houses and apartments, hotels and resorts sprouting like mushrooms in the surrounding countryside.

why go?

Angkor is a place to be savoured, not rushed, and this is the base to plan your adventures. Still think three days at the temples is enough? Think again with Siem Reap on the doorstep.

what is there to do?

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

Angkor Wat is more than just an astounding architectural feat; it is the national symbol, the source of fierce Khmer pride and the epicentre of their civilisation. At first sight, it is a sumptuous blend of towers and sky, a magnificent spellbinding shrine to Vishnu with its captivating image replicated in the reflective lake below, a feast for unbelieving eyes. And there are many antique templs you cant’s be miss. A variety of shopping centers, spas, cafés, parks, and other activities can be found throughout the the old market area, and fabulouse nightlife.

SIEM REAP See Angkor Wat

Eat & Drink Dead fish tower

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Is more than just an astounding architectural feat; it is the national symbol, the source of fierce Khmer pride and the epicentre of their civilisation. At first sight, it is a sumptuous blend of towers and sky, a magnificent spellbinding shrine to Vishnu with its captivating image replicated in the reflective lake below, a feast for unbelieving eyes. Address: Angkor 6km (3.7mi) N of central Siem Reap

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Phnom Kulen

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Waterfall cascades off the mountain where King Jayavarman II announced independence from Java and proclaimed himself god-king. The river here also runs over lingas and is an attractive sight for modern-day pilgrims. There is also a little explored unnamed set of ruins at the foot of the mountain that is gaining mythical status among locals. Not many know how to get there, though they know of its existence.

Would-be explorers are challenged to find it! Price: admission US$20, Hours: last admission 15:30

Angkor National Museum

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Visiting the Angkor National Museum was an eerie, surreal experience.

For the first 45 minutes of our trip through the mammoth,

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Jungle junk meets tin shed, the radical Dead Fish with its lofty levels, live crocodile pit and appetising Thai food offers a unique and surreal dining experience.

Address: Ph Sivatha City Center

Khmer Kitchen

WaterFall at Kulen Mountain, Siem Reap

20,000-square-metre building, we didn’t spot another visitor.

Address: 968 Charles de Gaulle Blvd, Price: admission US$12, US$6,Hours: 6am-6pm

Angkor Night Market

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Careful not to create a tourist park, as in often case, there’s no warehouse like setting instead you will find smoothly laid out huts built from natural materials and design in beautiful Khmer style.

Over the years we already have 200 souvenirs shops which sells traditional Cambodian handmade products from clothing’s, silk, arts, jewelries, wood and stone carvings. Address: In front of old market,next to the Sala Sangkat Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap.

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Amok , best well-known for Khmer Cuisine,

Can’t get no culinary satisfaction?

Just follow in the footsteps of Sir Mick to this back-alley stalwart that kick-started life between the streets. Khmer and Thai favourites make up the menu, which includes a generous vegetarian selection based around pumpkin or sweet potato.

Address : The Alley Phone : 063-964154 Hours : 11am-10pm

In all three cases prices are a good deal more expensive than the offerings in the market, but the setting is far more pleasant -even if the beggars and postcard sellers can be persistent.

Amok -- The Passage, behind Bar St, Siem Reap.

T:(063) 965 407. Open daily 10:00-22:00.

Red piano

Soup Dragon

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Is another westen- owned establishment with friendly staff delivering good western and khmer food. Address : Bar St, Siem Reap Phone : 063-963240 Hours : 7am-12am

Amok

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Start with classic Asian breakfasts on the ground floor, just the recipe before tackling the temples. Later in the day, venture upstairs to the smarter restaurant with a global menu. The rooftop bar donates a percentage of profits to the Angkor Children’s Hospital, so drinking here is helping someone’s liver, if not your own.

Near Old Market, Siem Reap.

T: (063) 964 933. Open daily 06:00late.

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MINI GUIDE SIEM REAP

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

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The road linking Siem Reap to Phnom Penh is now surfaced all the way, and air-con buses thunder up and down daily. The road west to Sisophon, Thailand and Battambang is in a messy state in places, but is finally being overhauled. It is served by some buses and plenty of share taxis.

There are several companies operating buses between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, and services depart between 6.30am and 12.30pm. The average cost of a bus ticket is US$5, depending on the company. There are daily express boat services between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh (US$20 to US$25, five to six hours)

when to go Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep

Plan your itinerary

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

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Classic colonial hotel winner of numerous awards, the splendid Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor is a spectacular example of classic colonial architecture, right down to the minuscule vintage elevator. A frangipani-tree-lined pebble driveway leads up to the building’s simple, classic facade. The marble-floored lobby signals you’ve entered Siem Reap’s premier historical hotel.Vithea Charles de Gaulle, Siem Reap T: (063) 963 888; F: (063) 963 168

La Residence d’Angkor

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A fabulous spot -- huge baths Acquired by Orient-Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises back in 2006, the former Pansea is now La Residence d’Angkor.

The breathtakingly high standards remain the same and a few new things have been added: a flashy poolside bistro and outdoor barbeque with fabulous imported meats, as well as a stilted bar area resembling a luxurious version of a traditional Khmer home.

River Rd, Siem Reap T: (063) 963 390; F: (063) 963 391

Cabana Suite - Master bedroom Raffels Grand Hotel D’Angkor

Victoria Angkor Hotel

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One of the most impressive large properties in Siem Reap.

Despite its gorgeous layout and opulent decor, it’s priced the same as hotels a star or two lower, and have even gone down recently. Nothing is overlooked. The colonialstyle lobby has patterned-tile walkways surrounding trinkling pools with floating lotus blossoms. There’s an ornate gift shop, and when we visited, a Khmer woman was weaving traditional fabrics on a large loom. Rooms are very generously sized and tastefully decorated, although the leopard print couch in one suite we saw may be overdoing it a little. Staff are excellent -- friendly, courteous and eager to please.

Central Park, Siem Reap T: (063) 760 428; F: (063) 760 350

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Surrounded by white-sand beaches and undeveloped tropical islands, the port city and beach resort of Sihanoukville (Krong Preah Sihanouk), also known as Kompong Som, is the closest thing you get to the Costa del Cambodia.

why go?

The big attractions around here are the four beaches ringing the headland. None of them qualify as the region’s finest but on weekdays it’s still possible to have stretches of sand to yourself. On weekends and holidays Sihanoukville is extremely popular with well-to-do Phnom Penhers.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

SIHANOUK VILLE See 1

Situated 13km east of Sihanoukville, Ream National Park is a great place to view Cambodia’s wildlife. The sandy beaches, mangrove forests, monkeys and dolphins make it a favourite among locals. A moto to the park’s headquarters should cost USaround US$2. From here, guided walking tours with rangers can be arranged from USaround US$5. Boat tours around the park cost around US$20 for a boat holding four people.

E of Sihanoukville

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The reefs around Sihanoukville are rich in corals, sponges and all sorts of sea life, from eels to anemones and stingrays to dolphins. Some of the best diving is around Koh Tang and Koh Prins, which require an overnight trip, though there’s also decent diving closer in near Koh Tas (Koh Kaong Kang) and Koh Rung Samloem (two hours one-way). Excellent snorkelling locales include coral-rich Koh Khteah, about 2km off Otres Beach.

Eat & Drink

Ream National Park

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Southeast of of tiny Koh Pos Beach, Independence Beach, named after the hotel that has dominated the area since the 1960s, is a good stretch of clean sand but lacks shade and facilities.

Occheuteal Beach

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Occheuteal Beach is the most popular beach in town, with a high concentration of bungalow bars and restaurants set up on the sand.

Occheutal Beach

Koh Ta Kiev

what is there to do?

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There are quite a few islands dotting the gulf within day-trip distance of Sihanoukville. For snorkelling, Koh Ta Kiev is one of the best.

Happy Herb Pizza

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A pizzeria with a breezy, tropical twist. In addition to Khmer dishes, options include garlic bread, salads and pasta.

Free delivery available.

Address : 81 Ph Ekareach City Centre, Phone tel, info: 34 632198 Hours : 08:00-23:00 Mirax Resort on the Dèk Kol Island in Sihanouk Ville

Bamboo Island

Imagine that you are relaxing on a lounge chair with a cool beverage, and all you see is golden sand beach, and shimmering aquamarine water, and all you hear is the sound of tropical birds, and wildlife. You hear no cars, see no development, and the real world seems a thousand miles away. Such a scenario exists only in your dreams, you say?

Wrong. It really exists, it is called Bamboo island, and it is only 45 minutes away from Coasters on Ochheuteal beach at Sihanoukville.

Address: Bamboo Island

Fish Grill in Bamboo Island,

Holy Cow

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At this attractive, chic-funky café-restaurant, options include pasta, sandwiches on homemade bread and a good selection of veggie options, including two vegan desserts, both involving chocolate. The small shop sells M’lop Tapang products. Address : Ph Ekareach City Centre, Phone : 34 478510 Hours : breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sea Dragon

food stalls

Starfish Bakery & Café

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In the evening, food stalls set up one block north of Psar Leu. Options include barbeque chicken, rice porridge or noodles with chicken, and a variety of Cambodian desserts.

Address : cnr Omui & 7 Makara Sts City Centre

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This large airy restaurant does tasty Western food, but it’s the delicious Khmer that you’d come for. Please let us know if you have any special preferences, environment that make you feel comfortable and care free..

Address : Occheuteal Beach Phone tel, info: 034 016 595252, (855)034-933 671 Hours : breakfast, lunch & dinner Tucked down a red-earth alley, this attractive, NGO-run garden café serves filling Western breakfasts, light lunches (sandwiches, quiche, tortillas, salads) and teatime treats such as brownies and apple tarts.

Veggie options are legion. Income goes to help poor Cambodians get medical care, housing and micro-loans.

Address : 62 7 Makara St City Centre Hours : 07:00-18:00

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MINI GUIDE

SHIANOUKVILLE

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

National Highway 4 (NH4), the 230km highway between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh, is in excellent condition but is quite dangerous due to the prevalence of high-speed overtaking on blind corners. It’s doubly dicey around dusk and at night, when all intercity road travel is best avoided. NH3 to Kampot (105km) is also in tip-top shape.

Taking NH48 to Krong Koh Kong and the Cham Yeam–Hat Lek border crossing will be a breeze once the four ferry crossings are replaced by bridges, an engineering landmark that should happen sometime in the future.

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep

Plan your itinerary

Cambodian Resort

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Located near the beach in central Sihanoukville and close to Otres Beach, Ochheutel Beach, and Sokha Beach. Additional area points of interest include Independence Beach and Victory Beach. Resort Features.Recreational amenities include an outdoor pool, a children’s pool, a health club, a sauna, and a fitness facility.

Polowai st,group 15,village 4,sangkat 4,Sihanoukville 1800, Cambodia Tel : 034 934 657

Beach Club Resort

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Is Sihanoukville’s premier boutique mid-range resort featuring Free 1.5 Mbs Wi Fi internet throughout, a swimming pool and a restaurant serving Asian and Western cuisine. The rooms are tastefully decorated and include all amenities.

Tola 23 street, Sihanoukville 20000, Cambodia Tel : 034 933 634

Snake House

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Hotel and Restaurant is located near Hawaii and Victory Beach. Nicely decorated two-story cottages built in Khmer-style

Junior Suit bedroom in Cambodian Resort, Sihanouk Ville

are hidden among the rich flora of the garden, thus offering tranquility and seclusion for the guests. Friendly hotel staff will make your stay comfortable.

Address : Ph SovietWeather Hill tel : 34 673805

Independence 14 Boutique Resort

Was designed by french architect m. mondet of the partnership leroy and mondet they were also responsible for many more important constructions in phnom penh and the provinces built during the fifties and sixties .

2 Thnou (St.), Sangkat 3, Sihanoukville, Preah Sihanouk Tel : 034 934 300

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

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Once Cambodia’s Wild West, its frontier economy dominated by smuggling, prostitution and gambling, Krong Koh Kong has recently taken big steps towards respectability. The city centre is still scruffy but new midrange hotels are going up, especially along the landscaped riverfront, and ecotourism promises to transform the town into the gateway to some of Southeast Asia’s most breathtaking coastal and mountain habitats. .

why go?

The best nearby beach is on the eastern (ie city centre) side of Stung Koh Poi about 4km south of the bridge at the tip of the peninsula. You can get there along the river on foot or by moto; by car you have to loop around to the east.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

KOh kong

what is there to do?

The Disneyesque gateway. The park has the usual zoo animals but it also puts on the sort of live-animal shows banned in most countries, with performances reminiscent of a 19th-century circus sideshow. Birds ride tiny bicycles, orang-utans dressed up as boxers throw punches and a man puts his head inside a crocodile’s mouth.

See River waterfall

Eat & Drink Baan Peakmai

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A very worthwhile trip, regardless of the season is to do a boat trip up the Kah Bpow river to a large waterfall that crosses the river. In the wet season the waterfall spans almost the entire river’s width, whilst in dry season (when the rivers are all lower) the waterfall is restricted to the far left side of the river. When the river is low there are ample swimming opportunities, just be very careful jumping off any of the large rock ledges.

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Koh Kong island

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Save a few shacks that are home to coconut farmers, Ko Kong is largely uninhabited -- leaving its pristine white sand beaches just for you.

The water at its many beaches is remarkably clear and the setting is pristine (save the general flotsam that washes up onto the beach). Around an hour by fibreglass boat from Ko Kong town, the island is a popular escape for a daytrip from dusty Ko Kong. Whle accommodation is not available, we were told that some people have camped on the island.

Koh Kong Safari World

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The park has the usual zoo animals but it also puts on the sort of live-animal shows banned in most countries, with performances reminiscent of a 19th-century circus sideshow.

TaTai water fall in Koh Kong

Every morning, and into the early afternoon, birds ride tiny bicycles, orang-utans dressed up as boxers throw punches and a man puts his head inside a crocodile’s mouth. Address: Krong Koh Kong, Phone tel, info: 016 800811

kickboxing

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Traditional Khmer kickboxing similar to Thailand’s Muay Thai, which Khmers insist is in fact Cambodian - is especially popular in Krong Koh Kong, and many of the country’s top boxers, including the national champion, Eh Phouthong, hail from here.

Matches are sometimes held in Krong Koh Kong on Saturday nights, especially in the dry season.The hugely enthusiastic crowds include quite a few women and the provincial governor who, it is said, never misses a match. Locals are joined

by Thai punters from across the border.

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One of the best restaurants in town, this Thai place, out of doors in a relaxing garden, has a monster menu with two dozen vegetarian choices and a fair spread of seafood.

Address: St 6 Phone: 035 393906 Price: mains 60-250B Hours: 6am-10pm

Sauna Garden Bar

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Both a relaxing sauna and a garden restaurant with good Khmer, Thai and Western food, this establishment - something of an expat hang-out - is also a good source of local information.

Address: St 3 Krong Koh Kong Phone tel, info: 015 601633

Cafe Laurent

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Lovely place on stilts over the sea serving some very good, albeit expensive food. We liked it enough here to return on several nights as the foos was as good here as it was bad at our hotel (ASEAN Hotel, excellent value rooms, terrible food!). Koh Kong is a grubby town, almost as grim as Kampot, but with a vibrant atmosphere and a busy, beautiful estuary which is lovely to watch from Cafe Laurent. There is one other place which I cannot remember the name for located a few hundred yards from here

Buffet in Koh Kong Resort & Hotel

over the little bridge, which is also an excellent and cheaper cafe.Next to the Koh Kong City Hotel.

Tel: 035 63 66 388 / 016 37 37 37

food stalls

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Thai food is more common here than in most parts of Cambodia.

There are cheap food stalls around the perimetre of Psar Leu - have a look along St 2 and north of the market along St 3.

Address St 2 & St 3 Krong Koh Kong

Bob’s Bar

Breakfast is available all day long at this cheery, Aussie-run restaurant-bar. Serves Western dishes and the best espresso in town.

Address : Krong Koh Kong Phone : 016 326455 Hours : 09:00-21:00 or later

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MINI GUIDE KOH KONG

Getting around

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Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

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When NH48 finally gets its four new bridges, ending the frustrating traffic jams at the ferries, travel times will plummet and transport options to Sihanoukville (220km) and Phnom Penh (290km) are likely to mushroom.

Krong Koh Kong is linked to the Thai border by a dual carriageway of sorts – not only does it lack lines, lanes, signs, reflectors and verges/shoulders, but some locals drive as if it were two parallel two-lane highways! The 1.9km bridge over Stung Koh Poi, built and run by the Thais, costs 4800r/44B each way for a car and 1200r/11B for a motorbike; bicycles and pedestrians cross for free.

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep Koh Kong City hotel

Plan your itinerary 11

Povides nicely arranged hotel facilities, whether its accommodation, dining, or business facilities, to all its guests. The restaurant located within the premises of this hotel offers tastefully served delicacies. The hotel also hosts a business center for the convenience of our guests.

Some other activities that can be enjoyed while staying in this hotel include laundry services, travel/tour information, Internet service, and 24hour in room service.

Koh Kong Asean Hotel

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How to get there: 150 to 200 m from Koh Kong bride on the riverfront road Hotel Asian Koh Kong in Koh Kong, a hotel with a distinct difference. We offer our privileged guests 46 rooms including 8 suites. Each deluxe room and suite has been designed in classical style to complement the attention to detail and standard of service expected by today’s discerning business traveler.

Address: #01 Village, Sangkat Smach Mean Chay

Front of Koh Kong City Hotel

Champa Guesthouse

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Opposite Koh Kong River Side, is the only riverside option in Ko Kong, and you are right on the river, with the rooms opening out onto a wooden terrace that faces straight onto the river. All rooms are with fan and shared bathroom facilities. Rates are very reasonable and Rob is a good source of information on the Ko Kong area.

Address: Koh Kong, Tel: 035 939 912

Otto’s

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Heading inland from the river road, Otto’s sits on a well shaded corner with a bunch of functional though basic wooden rooms in rambling wooden set-up. The two large and well-decked-out balcony areas are a big asset here and a perfect escape from the heat and take a snooze. The best tight budget bet Ko Kong town T: (035) 93 6163;

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

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More and more visitors are discovering the sleepy riverside town of Kampot, a charming place with a relaxed atmosphere and a fine, if run-down French architectural legacy. Eclipsed as a port when Sihanoukville was founded in 1959.

why go?

Kampot makes an excellent base for exploring Bokor National Park and the verdant coast east towards Vietnam, including Kep and a number of superb cave-temples.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

KOMPOT See

Bokor Mountain Lodge

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The old bridge is quite a sight: destroyed during the Khmer Rouge period, it has been repaired in a mishmash of styles.

Boat excursion

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Kampot’s most enjoyable activity is strolling along streets that evoke days long gone. Blocks lined with decrepit French-era shops can be found in the triangle delineated by 7 Makara St, the Central Roundabout and the post office.

River kayaks

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Les Manguiers, a riverside guesthouse 2km north of town, rents out river kayaks (rates are marginally more for two-person boats).

Bokor Mountain

For the ride, for the scenery, for the cool mountain air, for the

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Bokor Lodge is our favourite for a streetside sundowner, while Rikitikitavi gets the vote for a splash out meal. River Rd, Kampot. T: (033) 932 314. Open daily.

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Kampot’s riverside location makes it an excellent place to begin a boat excursion, either to scenic areas upstream or - at around 17:00, when the fishing boats head out to sea - downstream.

Enquire at your guesthouse or ask around along the river. You should be able to arrange a seaworthy vessel.

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Kampot’s most enjoyable activity is strolling along streets that evoke days long gone.

Blocks lined with decrepit French-era shops can be found in the triangle delineated by 7 Makara St, the Central Roundabout and the post office.

Eat & Drink

Old bridge

Strolling

what is there to do?

Rikitikitavi Nipa Huts on Rabbit Island

adventure, for relaxation. All good reasons to travel the the top of Bokor Mountain. (note: there are many difficulties getting up the mountain while road construction is going on.

This should end in 2011. You should call ahead to one of the hotels or guide services in Kampot in advance, to check if the road is even open)

Rapids (Tek Chhou).

A series of stones in flowing water, a major tourist resort for the Khmer and fun for all, cool crystal clear water running down from the semi de­mined hills of Bokor. One of the many Generals here hasbuilt a spa on the back of this water, he claims it has health improving qualities and has called it “Tada Bokor”.

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Named after the mongoose in Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book, this stylish terrace restaurant affords unsurpassed river views and is known for its generous portions. Specialities include Kampot pepper chicken, imported beefsteak, sandwiches, burgers, burritos, salads, apple pie and plenty of veggie options.

Serves wine by the glass. River Rd, Kampot. T:(012) 235 102.

Closed Mondays.

Epic Arts Café

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A great place for breakfast (around US$3), home-made cakes or tea, this mellow eatery- staffed by deaf and disabled young people - can also pack a bagel lunch for a trip up to Bokor. Sometimes it hosts dance performances.

Profits fund dance, music and art workshops for deaf and disabled Cambodians.A block back from the abandoned market, Kampot. Open daily.

Crab soup Bamboo Island,

9 SAY SABOK RESTAURANT & BAR

A mix of Khmer and international food. Coco has the best location, but there’s really little to separate the three, although Say Sa Bok is closed in rainy season. Jasmine’s steaks are popular among expats. It offers WiFi access and has a knowledgeable owner, Mark, who plays old movies on a big screen one night a week.

Address : #24, St.Ekreach 1 Usaphea Tel : 011 564 615

Little Garden Bar

Set in the garden of an old French-period property, this tranquil little haven serves Khmer and international dishes, including pizzas (around US$6), and wine by the glass. The rooftop terrace affords superb river views. River Rd, Kampot. T: (012) 256 901. Open daily.

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MINI GUIDE KOMPOT

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

NH3, these days in sharp shape, links Kampot with both Phnom Penh (148km, two hours) and Sihanouk ville(105k m).Both Phnom Penh Sorya Transport and Hour Lean (012 939917) run two buses daily to midday to/ from Phnom Penh (US$4, four to five hours). Both companies take the long way around – via Kep (US$2, 40 minutes) and Angk Tasaom (the gateway to Takeo; US$2.50) – because the Bailey bridges on NH3 aren’t bus-friendly. Both companies have ticket desks around Sokhoda Restaurant (facing the Total petrol station).

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep Moliden Guesthouse

Plan your itinerary 11

This Khmer-owned hotel, which opened in 2009, is one of the best bargains in town.

The location a few blocks north of the main restaurant strip, with views of the old bridge and the river, is unbeatable. It’s set in a newlyconstructed, old Khmer-style stilted wooden villa. The rooms, all on the second floor, connect to the ground-floor restaurant by a wide staircase made of knotty wood.

Across from the old bridge T: (012) 820 779;

Orchid Guesthouse

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Is one of the newer guesthouses in Kampot and has settled in well in the budget quarter around Blissful Guesthouse. Orchid offers a range of accommodation, from rooms in a Khmer-style villa through to bungalows. Most are clean, though some of the bathrooms can be smelly, so ask to see a few rooms if possible. Opposite Blissful Guesthouse, Kampot T: (092) 226 996;

Blissful Guesthouse

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Blissful is easily the best value guesthouse in Kampot. Set in a large, two-storey house with hardwood floors, the

Moliden GuestHouse

rooms are clean and wellmaintained, even if some are a little pokey. Dorm rooms have windows, fans, and three beds to a shared bath -- not a bad ratio at all for the price. A blissful backpacker option Off the river, Kampot T: (012) 513 024;

Mea Culpa

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Opened in November 2008, this six-room Khmer-style villa offers all the amenities of its more stylish and more expensive counterparts in the centre of town, with hot water, air-con, and TVs with DVD players. Though rooms are simple, they’re comfortable and bright, with two big windows and light tiled floors. Quiet locale, tasty restaurant South of town, on the road near the Governor’s Mansion T: (012) 504 769;

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

The seaside resort of Kep-sur-Mer, famed for its spectacular sunsets and splendid seafood, was founded as a colonial retreat for the French elite in 1908. Cambodian high rollers continued the tradition, flocking here to enjoy gambling and water sports, and in the 1960s it was home to Cambodia’s leading zoo.

why go?

After several false starts, Kep finally seems to be rising from (or among) the ruins. It’s again popular, especially on weekends and holidays, with the wealthy elite of Phnom Penh. Drawn by the languid, Riviera-like atmosphere, they drive down in SUVs to picnic and frolic on the scruffy beaches (even before the war, white sand was shipped in from Sihanoukville to keep up appearances). If you want to see the town before big money transforms it, you’d better hurry.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

what is there to do?

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KEP

Dining in Kep is all about fresh seafood. For the best deals head to the Crab Market, a row of wooden waterfront shacks where you can tuck into mouth-watering grilled prawns, crab, squid, squid and fish. In case you’re interested, crabs - kept alive in pens tethered a few metres off the pebbly beach - cost per kilo.

See

Eat & Drink

mid-20th 1 century villas

Crab Market

From Kep’s northern roundabout, NH33A heads north past the mildewed shells of handsome mid20th-century villas that speak of happier, carefree times - and of the truly terribly Khmer Rouge years. Built according to the precepts of the modernist style, with clean lines, lots of horizontals and little adornment, they once played host to glittering jet-set parties and may do so again someday, though for the time being many shelter squatters (and, some say, ghosts). Don’t even think of buying one - they were all snapped up for a song in the mid-1990s by speculators well-connected in Cambodia’s murky corridors of military and civilian power.

Address : Town Centre

King Sihanouk’s Palace

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On top of the hill northwest of Kep Beach is a palace built by King Sihanouk in the early 1990s. Before his overthrow in 1970, Kep was one of his favourite spots and he used to entertain visiting foreign dignitaries on an outlying island nicknamed Île des Ambassadeurs. The king may have harboured thoughts of retirement remains unfurnished.

Knai BangChatt Resort in Kep

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Dining in Kep is all about fresh seafood. For the best deals head to the Crab Market, a row of wooden waterfront shacks where you can tuck into mouthwatering grilled prawns, crab, squid, squid and fish. In case you’re interested, crabs - kept alive in pens tethered a few metres off the pebbly beach - cost per kilo.

Address : waterfront Town Centre

Kimly Restaurant Kep Beach

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Kep Beach, which faces south and is thus not great for sunsets, is sandy but narrow and strewn with little rocks. The eastern end of the shaded promenade is marked by a nude statue of a fisher’s wife. A waterfront promenade to the Crab Market was under construction as we went to press.

Coconut Beach

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Coconut Beach is a few hundred metres southeast of Kep Beach, just past the giant crab statue and across the NH33A from two gilded statues that locals say - with a great deal of justification - look like oversized chickens.

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Perhaps the best of the Crab Market eateries, specialities here include prawns with sprigs of Kampot pepper and fresh crab. Mains come with a tasty dessert: fried tarrow root in sugar. Kim Ly Restaurant: Crab Market, T: (012) 345 753,(089) 822 866. Open until 22:00.

Long Villa

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Is the logical place to wait for your boat to Rabbit Island. After purchasing a ticket from Sophat, the young man always manning the ticket counter, Long Villa will serve you an omelette for $2 or pizza for $8, among other options.

Long Villa: T: (092) 262 706.

Open 08:00-20:00.

Squid fried , Seafood cuisine

The Sailing Club

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Next door and owned by Knai Bang Chatt, transports you to summertime on Cape Cod, with its light blue clapboard building boasting a wraparound deck and a proper boat dock.

Sailing Club: next to Knai Bang Chhat, T: (012) 349 742.

Breeze’s

Offers seafood dishes from $6, sandwiches from $5, and interesting world fare like udon noodles with minced chicken ($7.50) and duck breast wrapped in a pancake ($6.50). Jazz played when we visited. It’s open from 08:30 to late, with free pickup from your hotel if you call the Dutch-Korean owner Jeroeme.

Breeze’s: near ferry, T: (097) 675 9072.

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MINI GUIDE KEP

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

Kep is 25km from Kampot, 172km from Phnom Penh and 49km from the Vietnamese town of Ha Tien. The Cambodia–Vietnam border at Ha Tien has been open to tourists since mid-2007. Both Phnom Penh Sorya Transport and Hour Lean run Phnom Penh–Kampot buses that pass through Kep (they also serve Angk Tasaom, near Takeo).

On Phnom Penh Sorya, the fare to Kampot (40 minutes) is US$2; arrival times from Phnom Penh are variable. Buses stop at Kep Beach, where motos await, but you can ask to get off near the Riel bar or Kep Lodge. Ticketing is handled by guesthouses or Sunny Tour.

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep

Plan your itinerary

Knai Bang Chatt

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Listed on Conde Nast Traveler’s Hot List 2007, and with rates that start at $110 a night (skyrocketing up to $350), this luxurious compound isn’t trying to be anything but the very best. The setting is sublime -- a landscaped lawn estate with a sizeable horizon pool, artfully placed hammocks and massage salas accompanied by a wooden, open-air restaurant along the waterfront which offers terrific views across the Gulf of Thailand and serves up fine healthy food. Kep’s most luxurious Kep Beach, Kampot T: (012) 349 742;

Kukuluku

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The waterfront restaurant is closed Mondays and only open for dinner from 18:00 to 20:00, with a range of French and Western food. Rooms are basic, with plywood ceilings, tile floors and wicker furniture. There are seven rooms, including one dorm with six beds. Nice location, shabby accommodation Main road, 1.5km from town T: (012) 607 877;

Superior Room in Phka Villa Hotel, Battambang

Tree Top

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A Swiss Family Robinson experience Tree Top is true to its name and worth a night’s stay for the novelty alone. The four rooms are all actually tree houses, three of which are connected by wooden platforms, and the one room with a private bath is set off on its own. In front of Kep Lodge, Kep T: (012) 515 191;

Champey Inn

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This was one of Kep’s flasher digs near the shore, boasting a large pool big enough for laps, and spacious adjoining-bungalow styled rooms. The bungalows are all duplex, with aircon and hot water, and have large open-air bathrooms almost as big as the bedroom.

Good spot, but a little old Beachfront Kep T: (012) 501 742;

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Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

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Cambodia’s second-largest city is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the bestpreserved French-period architecture in the country and to warm and friendly inhabitants.

The city itself is developing fast but timeless hilltop temples and scenic villages can be seen on leisurely day-trips.

Photos by Vibol Phan

why go?

Battambang’s many temples, which survived the Khmer Rouge period relatively unscathed thanks to a local commander who ignored orders, include Wat Phiphétaram, a long block north of Psar Nat, built in 1888; Wat Damrey Sar, west of the Battambang Museum; and Wat Kandal on the East Bank, once famed for its library. A number of the monks at all three wats speak English and are glad for a chance to practise; they’re often around in the late afternoon.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

BATTAMBANG See

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Ek Phnom dates back to the 11th century and is one of the most-visited attractions around Battambang. If you’ve already seen Angkor you’ll probably find it a bit disappointing, but if you haven’t been there yet, it’s a fine taster. On weekdays, you’re likely to have the entire place to yourself, How to get there: Ek Phnom is best reached from Battambang by motodop along the river road and takes around 45 minutes, passing through some beautiful scenery.

Phnom Banan

Green House Café

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Two elegant - though as yet nameless - avenues, with parkland down the middle, grace the city centre. One goes by the Centre Culturel Français (one block north of NH5), while the other stretches west from the worthwhile Battambang Museum .3Address: St 1 City Centre, Price: admission USUS$1 Hours: 08:00-11:00 & 14:00-17:00 Mon-Fri

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The bamboo train is one of the world’s all-time classic rail journeys. From O Dambong, on the east bank 3.7km south of Battambang’s Old Stone Bridge, the train runs southeast to O Sra Lav, via half an hour of clicks and clacks along warped, misaligned rails and vertiginous bridges left by the French.

Eat & Drink

Battambang Museum

Ek Phnom

what is there to do?

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Just over 20km to the south of Battambang, Phnom Banan is the best kept of the remaining Khmer ruins in the area, though again, when compared to Angkor Wat it isn’t so impressive.

Phnom Banan Temple

Dating back to the 11th century, Phnom Banan has been heavily looted but remains mostly upright.

Location: 25 km south of Battambang Price: US$ 2, the ticket is also valid for Phnom Sampeau and Wat Ek Phnom

Phnom Sampeau

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Serves coffee, shakes, Khmer-style rice and noodle favourites, salads and exotic dishes - the menu has photographs so clients know what they’re getting - such as pizza, hamburgers and doughnuts. Popular with students from the nearby colleges.

Address: East Bank Phone tel, info: 012 467313 Hours: 06:30-20:30

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This hilltop temple on the road to Pailin is one of the main locations of Battambang’s killing fields, with a large cave where victims were thrown either after being bludgeoned or having their throats cut, or simply to their death. Children, some of whom speak very good English, hang around the base of the temple and will walk up with you and act as your guides.

Location: 18 km southwest of BattambangPrice: US$ 2, The ticket is also valid for Wat Ek Phnom and Phnom Banan

Fresh Eats Café

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Run by an NGO that helps children whose families have been affected by HIV/AIDS, this little place serves Western breakfasts, including bagels, and holds dance performances (USaround US$3) from 19:00 to 21:00 on Friday and Saturday.

Address: City Centre Phone: tel, info: 012 953 912 Hours: 06:30-21:00

Vegetarian Foods Restaurant

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Run by an ideologically vegetarian ethnic-Chinese family, this informal eatery serves home-made soy milk and delicious noodle soup breakfasts and brunches made with tofu or mushrooms. Recipes are Khmer, Chinese and Vietnamese.

Address: City Centre Phone: tel, info: 012 501 408 Hours: 06:30-11:00 or 12:00

Cambodia Red Wine, At Banan

Cold Night Restaurant

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With 175 menu items, there are plenty of Asian and Western options, including sandwiches (tuna salad, club), burgers and pasta, plus a local version of pizzas. The name refers to the cold beer on offer.

Address: East Bank Phone tel, info: 012 994746 Hours: 06:00-23:00 or 24:00

White Rose

Has a mammoth menu of good-value Khmer, Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, including soups, veggie options and marvellous tukalok (fruit shakes).

Address: St 2 City Centre Phone tel, info: 012 693855 Hours: 06:30-22:00

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MINI GUIDE BATTAMBANG

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

Battambang is 290km from Phnom Penh along the heavily trafficked NH5. Travelling after dark is best avoided for safety reasons. Boat and bus tickets can be arranged through hotels and guesthouses. NH57 to Pailin (80km) is still sometimes referred to by locals as NH10.

Half-a-dozen bus companies have offices and stops on or near NH5, most of them west of the river. All serve Phnom Penh (US$4, five hours), Pursat (US$2.50 or US$3, two hours), Sisophon (US$2, one hour) and Poipet (US$4, three hours).

Booking through a hotel may incur a US$1 commission.

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep Banan Hotel

Plan your itinerary 11

Lavishly decorated from top to bottom, Banan Hotel is an excellent choice for midrange travellers. The exterior, interior and every nook and cranny of this hotel is spotless. A lovely mid-range option National road 5, near Paramount bus station T: (012) 739 572;

Khemara I Hotel

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located, close to Battambang Museum and University of Battambang. Additional area points of interest include Ek Phnom Temple. Features.Dining options at Khemara I Hotel include a restaurant. Room service is available.

St.515, gr. 24, chhrey kourng villoge, Slo koet commune, Battambang 53, Cambodia Tel : 053 737 878

Golden Palace Hotel

Opera Suite bedroom in Sofitel Phokeethra Phnom Penh -Luxury Hotel

Phka Villa

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Phka Villa Battambang is an oasis of calm and peaceful retreat, located in center of town and far away from the busy city streets. The hotel is one of the finest in battambang and offers a beautiful black tiled pool and a restaurant serving Khmer and Western dishes.

Street k.O sangkat ratanak, Battambang, Tel : 053 953 255

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located, close to Battambang Museum and University of Battambang. Additional area points of interest include Ek Phnom Temple. Features.Dining options at Golden Palace Hotel include a restaurant. This 2.5-star property has a business center and offers limo/town car service.

In front of soun yu van garden,Tel : 053 953 901-2

Au Cabaret Vert

In spacious bungalows, and proposes you a natural swimming pool (the first one in Cambodia).Its restaurant offers French cooking, but also the Cambodian cooking.

Rue 154,Battambang Battambang, Tel : 053 6562 000

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

Mondulkiri is a totally different experience from the rest of Cambodia. High up in rolling hills, with a constant, all-year-round breeze, it’s a destination which makes you feel on top of the world.

why go?

Photos by SreyLeak Bun

Home to the hardy Pnong people and their noble elephants, it is possible to visit traditional villages and learn how to be a mahout. The landscape is a seductive mix of pine clumps, grassy hills and windswept valleys that fade beguilingly into forests of jade green and hidden waterfalls. Wild animals, such as bears and tigers, are more numerous here than elsewhere, although chances of seeing them are about as good as winning the lottery

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

MONDULKIRI See

Green House 6 Restaurant and Bar

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This is the largest waterfall within easy motorcycle distance -- 37 km -- of Sen Monorom, taking about one hour each way on average to poor dirt roads. The falls are in two main levels and the main picnic area is between the two. The upper falls are wide and strong with a couple of swimming holes, while the lower falls, at 25 m high, are narrower but far taller.

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For an original elephant experience, visit the Elephant Valley Project. The trip starts with a tour of the project before learning about the body language of elephants.

Students are then given the chance to try a series of short rides to build their confidence. After lunch, wannabee mahouts get the chance to experience a longer ride to a nearby waterfall.

Eat & Drink

Bousra Waterfall

Elephant Treks

what is there to do?

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The villages of Phulung, 7km northeast of Sen Monorom, and Putang, 9km southwest of town, are the most popular places to arrange an elephant trek. Most of the recommended guesthouses around town, as well as the tourist office, can arrange day treks for around USaround US$30 or so, including lunch and transport to and from the village.

It can get pretty uncomfortable up on top of an elephant after a couple of hours; carry a pillow to ease the strain.

Location: Villages of Phulung and Putang Timing: daily, morning till late afternoon Costs: US$ 25 up

Bousra Waterfall,

Sunset Hill

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Located before the air strip, 7 km down a side dirt road off the road to Bou Sra, this is a great place to ask your motodop to stop after returning from the waterfalls from a long day of trekking and swimming.

You can also stop at Phnom Doh Kromom Pagoda, which is a small temple off the next road to the right heading toward the traffic circle.

Phnom Bai Chuw

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Check out the observation deck of Phnom Bai Chuw, 6km northwest of Sen Monorom, for a jaw-dropping view of the emerald forest. It looks as though you are seeing a vast sea of tree tops, hence the locals have named it Samot Cheur (Ocean of Trees).

Address NW of Town Centre

is located right near the bus stop, and is essentially the only real backpacker hangout in town with any steady clientele. There are two main reasons for its draw. One, it has bamboo floors, rattan walls, and low ceilings covered in palm fronds. There’s a small bar and Western music always playing. T: (017) 905 659. Open 06:30 a.m. to 23:00 p.m.

The Middle of Somewhere

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It serves primarily drinks and snacks, but serves as a makeshift travel agency, organizing elephant treks with Jack’s refuge, which are about $50 for a full-day trip. The shop also sells an array of handmade Phnong crafts. Bananas restaurant, located on a patio behind the bamboo hut where Middle of Somewhere is housed, serves full meals. T: (012) 161 3833

Khmer Kitchen

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Also within eyesight of the bus stop on the same road, is a nice compromise between a Khmer- and Western-oriented restaurant. The ambiance, long tables under a metal

Fish Curry

awning. The food is great and well-priced. Its all-inclusive breakfast combo eggs, toast, and coffee for $2, is a steal.

The restaurant’s main attraction is its Khmer BBQ. You can choose fish, chicken, or beef.

A one-person platter, with salad, marinated meats, and rice, is $5 while a two-person platter, which is plenty of food for three, costs $8. Tél : +855 11 620 461

Bananas

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Bananas is a new restaurantbar serving up Western favourites like shepherd’s pie and Flemish stew, with a dose of expat insight on life in Cambodia. By night, beers and spirits flow.

Address: Town Centre Phone: tel, info: 092 412 680

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MINI GUIDE MONDULKIRI

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

The easiest way to arrive is from Snuol. Buses come to Snuol directly from Kratie (around two hours) and Phnom Penh (around three hours) by bus; once there, it is straightforward to find a pick-up or taxi which can take you on the three-hour trip up to Sen Monorom, the provincial capital. The road is in generally good condition, and the second half is possibly one of the beautiful routes in Cambodia, climbing through the jungle and suddenly bursting out onto the top of the hills. Prices for all of these kinds of transport are very reasonable, and they can be arranged through guesthouses and hotels.

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep Nature Lodge

Plan your itinerary 11

Is a backpackers haven. Set on the side of a hill, filled with horses nibbling brush, the lodge has a wonderland feel to it.

Friendly travellers convene in the restaurant area, a circular enclosure made of knotty pine that feels like a childhood tree house.

Far and away the best place to stay A five minute moto ride outside town T: (012) 230 272;

Pich Kiri Guest House

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Pich Kiri Guesthouse was the first lodging house to set up in Sen Monorom, and as of mid2009, with a large, 47-room expansion, it is now by far the largest place to stay in town.

Oldest and the best East of the market, Sen Monorom T: (012) 932 102;

Angkor Meas Guest house

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The rear view of the house looks out over a lush field of mango trees. The rooms are sparse and clean, featuring big beds with enormous headboards. Air-con is less of a necessity in this cooler climate than is hot water, but if you arrive in the middle of the hot season and need to find

Nature Lodge in Mondulkiri

a refrigerated room for the evening at a decent price. Past the airstrip, Sen Monorom T: (011) 696 828;

Long Vibol Guest 14 House and Restaurant

This pleasant enough guesthouse feels like it is far more targeted towards the NGO crowd than independent travellers and backpackers. While the rooms, hidden in a few low-slung row houses set behind a small stream and some tree-lined paths, are very clean and spacious, with hot water showers and TV, there is little to justify the walk (or short moto ride) out here as opposed to staying closer to town. A fave with NGO crowd Past the airstrip, Sen Monorom T: (012) 944 647;

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

Ratanakiri is making a name for itself as diverse region of outstanding natural beauty that provides a remote home for a mosaic of minority peoples. The Jarai, Tompoun, Brau and Kreung are the Khmer Leu (Upper Khmer) people with their own languages, traditions and customs.

why go?

Many visitors opt for a trek into Virachay National Park, but be aware that some of these treks barely scrape the park itself, and spend much of the time in the park buffer zone. There are now multiday treks into the park, and these are a great way to explore one of the wildest and most remote areas in Cambodia.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

what is there to do?

ratanakiri See Yak Lom Lake

Eat & Drink Sal’s Restaurant & Bar

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Ban Lung’s top tourism attraction is a volcanic crater filled with freshwater and surrounded by an easily navigated trail that can be walked in less than an hour. Another 850m path takes you up into the forested hill beside the lake and leads to the road from the main entrance.

There are three wide wooden docks to stop off and jump in for a cooling swim. There’s a $1 entrance fee for foreigners who must pay an additional 500 riel to enter a cultural centre with a small array of ethnic minority items on display.

Waterfalls around Ban Lung Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

Trekking has really started to take off around Ratanakiri, but it is important to make clear arrangements with your guide to ensure you get what is expected out of a trip. There are lots of popular routes that take in minority villages and scenic spots around the province.

2

Waterfalls are dotted about Rattanakiri province. Here are four of the more accessible ones, all best visited by motodop from Ban Lung.

Chha Ong waterfall. Head 2 km west on National Road 78 until you reach a main junction then turn right and head about 6 km to reach Chha Ong, the largest of three waterfalls within close distance to Ban Lung town and purportedly the tallest in the province. It’s 30m high and surging in the rainy season. The pool at the foot of the falls is good for swimming and you can climb behind the canopy of falling water in the carved-out cave behind the falls. Entrance is 2,000 riel.

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Set in a traditional wooden house on the edge of town, this is the place to come for comfort food from home, including Indian curries, spicy Mexican and great burgers. Service can be slow, but it’s worth the wait.

Address S of Town Centre Swimming at Bueng YeakLoam, Ratanakiri

Lumkot lake

3

This is a beautiful lake deep in the jungle near Borkeo district about 30 km north of Ban Lung. The tourism ministry built a dock for swimming in early 2009, we were told, and during the rainy season, the dirt path that leads to the lake is virtually impassable. With a guide, the trip should cost about $15 per person for a half-day trip and can include a stop in a Tampuan minority village.

Reclining Buddha

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Just west of town, within walking distance, is Phnom Svay, where there is an active wat with a small, reclining Buddha in the rear. It has a panoramic view of Ban Lung and provides good sunset watching.

For those with time on their hands.

Boeng Kansaign Restaurant

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Relax and unwind on the shores of the lake at this local restaurant.

Khmer and Chinese dishes make up the menu and the breeze across the water is blissful on a hot day.

Address N of Town Centret

Gecko House

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A charming little restaurant with inviting sofas and soft lighting, this is a great place by day or night. The menu features Thai tastes, Khmer classics and some Western dishes such as pizza, pasta and sandwiches. After dark it doubles as a lively bar.

Address Town Centre

Bar & Restaurant in Lodge des Terres Rouges, Ratanakiri

Coconut Shake Restaurant

9

For the best coconut shake in the northeast, try the aptly named Coconut Shake Restaurant. Dare to try the friend frie or the friend toes (French toast?).

Address: Boeng Kansaign Town Centre Phone : 012 416 234

A’Dam Restaurant

This local restaurant doubles up as a bar by night, thanks to one of the only pool tables in Ban Lung and a dart board… almost a British pub.

Address Town Centre

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MINI GUIDE RATANAKIRI

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

There are two main legs to the trip, Phnom Penh to Stung Treng and then Stung Treng to Banlung. The first leg usually requires a ferry ride for part of the way in order to bypass the extremely bad road between Kratie and Stung Treng. Either: 1) Take a taxi (2 hours, 8000 riel) or ferry (15,000 riel) to Kampong Cham, and then take a ferry from Kampong Cham to Stung Treng (9 hours, $15), or; 2) Take a taxi (5 hours, 13000 riel) or ferry (5 hours, 30,000 riel) to Kratie, and then take a ferry from Kratie to Stung Treng (5 hours, $7). Once in Stung Treng take a shared taxi or truck from Stung Treng to Banlung (25,000 riel, 3.5 hours in the dry season. 5-10 hours in the wet season.

when to go

Cambodia can be visited at any time of year. The ideal months are December and January, when humidity levels are relatively low, there is little rainfall and a cooling breeze whips across the land, but this is also peak season when the majority of visitors descend on the country.

Sleep NorDen House

Plan your itinerary 11

Located a five-minute walk from Yak Lom crater lake, this forested retreat has six bungalows all doubles, two with twin beds that are spotless and comfortable. A Swedish man (who used to own Scandinavia hotel in Phnom Penh) and his Khmer wife opened NorDen in early 2008. For an extra $5, it’s immeasurably more comfortable than Yaklom, although its manicured grounds and sturdy, cement bungalows feel much more removed from nature. Comfort in the countryside On the road to Yaklom Crater Lake, Ban Lung T: (012) 880 327;

Lakeside Chheng Lok Hotel

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In a prime spot overlooking Boeng Kansaign, this is the best all-rounder in Ban Lung.

Set in a lush garden, there is a choice of attractive garden bungalows or smart rooms.

Hot water, cable TV, it’s all here, and there is a local restaurant amid the flourishing plants. Pleasant lakeside setting Far side of lake, Ban Lung T : 855 92 390 063

Sovann Kiri Hotel

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The Sovann Kiri Hotel is just about the flashest digs in

Delux Room in Lodge des Terres Rouges, Ratanakiri

Ban Lung, and what it lacks in charm and ambience it makes up for with a fantastic, helpful staff.

For the money, this represents excellent value. Rooms are spotless and the upstairs rooms have reasonable views over some of the dust-covered surrounds. Flashest spot in town Road 78, Ban Lung T: (012) 654 373

Terres Rouges Lodge

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Terres Rouges boasts extremely tasteful rooms in a two-storey building, with a new building which looks equally promising in terms of style. Spacious verandas with lounges provide plenty of opportunities for lazing around and enjoying the Birds of Paradise-filled, lovely gardens and the small but lovely pool, built in early 2008, with an adjacent spa complete with a hair salon. Luxury in the highlands. Boeung Kansaign, Ban Lung. T: (075) 974 051;

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

Bangkok is excess in all of its unrestrained glory. Bigger, better, more: the city is insatiable, a monster that feeds on concrete, shopping malls and diesel exhaust.

why go?

Bangkok’s best feature is its intermingling of opposites. A modern world of affluence orbits around a serene traditional core. Step outside the four-star hotels into a typical Siamese village where taxi drivers knock back energy drinks and upcountry transplants grill chicken on a streetside barbecue. Hop the Skytrain to the glitzy shopping malls where trust-fund babies examine luxury brands as carefully as the housewives inspect produce at the open-air markets.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

Thailand, BANGKOK

what is there to do?

Trekking has really started to take off around Ratanakiri, but it is important to make clear arrangements with your guide to ensure you get what is expected out of a trip. There are lots of popular routes that take in minority villages and scenic spots around the province.

See

Eat & Drink

Grand Palace & Wat Prakeaw

Built in 1782, and for 150 years the home of the Thai King, the Royal court and the administrative seat of government, the Grand Palace continues to have visitors in awe with its beautiful architecture and intricate detail. Wat Pra Kaeo enshrines Phra Kaew Morakot, the highly revered Buddha image meticulously carved from a single block of emerald, dating from the 15th century AD. Address Na Phralan, Phra Nakorn Old City 508, 512, river ferry Tha Chang

Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

Wat Arun

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The most recognised temple landmarks of Southeast Asia. Constructed during the first half of the 19th century by King Rama II, in the ancient Khmer style, the stupa, showcasing ornate floral pattern decked out in glazed porcelain, is even more stunning up close. Apart from its beauty, Wat Arun symbolises the birth of the Rattanakosin Period and the founding of the new capital after Ayutthaya fell. Contrary to what its name suggests, the temple appears most beautiful at sunset, rather than sunrise.

Vimanmek Mansion

Café 1912

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3

An architectural marvel the entire structure is fashioned entirely from gold teakwood without using a single nail.

Dream World, Bangkok

The interiors resemble a living museum, where you can walk through some of the rooms and marvel at a treasure trove of rare arts and furniture pieces from the early Rattanakosin Period all belonging to the late king.

Opening Hours: 08:30 until 16:30 (Tuesday - Saturday, last ticket at 15:30) Location: Rajavithee Road.

Siam Ocean World

4

Southeast Asia’s largest oceanarium. More than 400 species of fish, crustaceans and even penguins populate this vast underground facility. Diving with sharks is also an option if you have your diving licence, though you’ll have almost as much fun timing your trip to coincide with the shark and penguin feedings; the former are usually at 1pm and 4pm, the latter at 12.30pm and 4.30pm. Address : Th Phra Ram I basement, Siam Paragon

6

Part of the French cultural centre, and with food provided by a good local bakery, this cafeteria is a great place to fuel up while on an embassy run. Both French and Thai dishes are available, as well as coffee and delicious cakes and sweets.

Address : 29 Th Sathon Tai Alliance Française Phone : 0 2679 2056 Price : dishes 60-120B Hours : 7am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun

Aquatini

7

Here enjoy your favorite selections of delicious Thai-European cuisine, choice of cocktails, light refreshments amidst soft BossaNova music. -Even better when you sit at open-air river terrace and truly enjoy your moment with sky and river breeze. With all these beautiful surroundings, Aquatini is the place you can never forget. the best Bangkok Restaurant the only Riverside in Old Town. Address 45/1 Th Phra Athit Phone 0 2280 9955, Hours 6.30am-1am

Somboon Seafood

8

Somboon, a classy seafood hall with a reputation far and wide, is known for doing the best currypowder crab in town.

Papaya Salad with salty crablet

Soy-steamed sea bass (lah grà·pohng nêung see·éw ) is also a speciality and, like all good Thai seafood, should be enjoyed with an immense platter of kôw pàtoo (fried rice with crab) and as many friends as you can gather together. Address : cnr Th Surawong & Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Chong Nonsi Phone : 0 2233 3104 Price : mains 150-250B

Jay Fai

9

You wouldn’t think so by looking at her bare-bones dining room, but Jay Fai is known far and wide for serving Bangkok’s most expensive pàtkêe mow (drunkard’s noodles).

The price is justified by the copious fresh seafood, as well as Jay Fai’s distinct frying style that results in a virtually oil-free finished product.

Address : 327 Th Mahachai Phone : 0 2223 9384 Price : mains 200-250B Hours : 3pm2am

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MINI GUIDE

THAILAND, BANGKOK

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

Bangkok’s thousands of brightly coloured taxis are some of the best value cabs on earth.

Most are new, air-conditioned and have working seatbelts in the front seat, though less often in the back. You can flag them down almost anywhere in central Bangkok. The meter charge is 35B for the first 2km, then 4.50B for each of the next 10km, 5B for each kilometre from 13km to 20km and 5.50B per kilometre for any distance greater than 20km, plus a small standing charge in slow traffic.

when to go

The southwest monsoon arrives between May and July and lasts into November. This is followed by a dry period from around November to May, which begins with lower relative temperatures until mid-February (because of the influence of the northeast monsoon, which bypasses this part of Thailand but results in cool breezes), followed by much higher relative temperatures from March to May. It usually rains most during August and September,

Sleep The Peninsula

Plan your itinerary 11

Perched on the edge of Thonburi on the west bank of the Chao Phraya, the magnificent Peninsula Hotel peers over Bangkok. Unflappably distinguished and serene, this 39-storey hotel towers above the others in quality and is regularly designated the best hotel in the world. It’s an al- Delux Twin Room in Rikka Inn Hotel, ternate universe of discreet Bangkok, Thailand excess and seamless aesthetic the Millennium Hilton fiunity. 333 Charoennakorn nally opened in 2006 and now Road, Bangkok, 10600 Thaistands proudly, like a sailor in land Tel : +65 6226 3310 his cap, among the riverside top-end matrons. The modern The Sukhothai 12 Asian design creates a more Modelled after the ancient stylish and less formal atmoscapital of Sukhothai, this exqui- phere than its neighbours. site tribute to Thai architectural 123 Charoennakorn Road, heritage is a stunning sanctu- Klongsan, Bangkok, Thailand ary for visitors. Serene Buddhas 10600 Tel: 66-2-442-2000 overlook inner ponds, ambient music meanders down hushed Rembrandt Hotel & 14 hallways, artefacts and orchids stand calmly in corners. Towers Light touches everywhere add Offers conservative, elegant to the overall sense of aesthet- accommodation and some of the city’s finest ‘ethnic’ restauic tranquillity.

13/3 South Sathorn Road, rants. An imposing 407-room establishment, the Rembrandt Bangkok 10120, Thailand is close to the Queen Sikirit Tel: +66 (0) 2344 8888 Convention Centre and the expat action of Sukhumvit.19 Millennium Hilton 13 After a decade as a 32-storey Sukhumvit Soi 18, Sukhumvit concrete skeleton on the far Road, Klong Toei, Bangkok 10110, Thailand bank of the Chao Phraya, Tel: +66 (0) 2261 7100

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

This delightfully friendly capital, studed with crumbling French mansions, bougain villea­-blooming streets and steaming noodle stalls, is somewhere between a big town and a diminutive city; the kind of place you might find a Graham Greene protagonist.

why go?

Full of things to see, from Buddha Park to the Morning market and an impossibly rich selection of international cuisine – most pointedly French – you’ll find yourself slowly won over by the easy charms of this evolving backwater.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

what is there to do?

Spread over the lower slopes of Phu Pasak (also known more colloquially as Phu Khuai), Wat Phu is small compared with the monumental Angkor-era sites in Cambodia or Thailand. But the tumbledown pavilions, ornate shiva-lingam sanctuary, enigmatic crocodile stone and tall trees that shroud much of the site in soothing shade give Wat Phu a mystical atmosphere.

laoS, vientiane See Laos National Museum

Eat & Drink

This two-storey colonial mansion became the Lao National Museum in 1985 and houses enough relics of Lao history and culture, both ancient and modern, to make a visit worthwhile.

The first rooms you come upon after entering the museum are filled with a hodgepodge of ancient artifacts like Khmer sculptures, dinosaur bones, pottery fragments, and a single jar from the Plain of Jars in Savannakhet.

Address : Th Samsenthai, Phone : 21 212461, Hours : 8amnoon & 1-4pm

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Haw Pha Kaeo

JoMa Bakery Café

1

2

Visitors to this lovely temple set amid manicured grounds would never guess it has such a turbulent history. The wat was originally built in 1565 to serve as the personal temple of the Lao royal family, but was razed and looted during the Thai invasion.

The name of the temple is homage to the sacred relic it once housed, the Emerald Buddha, which was stolen by the Thais and now sits in a temple of the same name at the Grand Palace in Bangkok.

Address : Th Setthathirat Hours : 8am-noon & 1-4pm

Swimming in Bueng YeakLoam, Ratanakiri

Pha That Luang

3

The most important national monument in Laos, Pha That Luang is a symbol of both the Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty. Its full official name, Pha Chedi Lokajulamani, means World-Precious Sacred Stupa, and an image of the main stupa appears on the national seal and in countless other places.

Address : Muang Saisettha at the end of Th That Luang Hours : 8am-noon & 1-4pm TueSun

Wat Si Saket

4

Built between 1819 and 1824 by Chao Anou, Wat Si Saket is believed to be Vientiane’s oldest surviving temple. And it shows; this beautiful temple-cum-national museum is in dire need of a face-lift.

Address : cnr Th Lan Xang & Th Setthathirat Hours : 8am-noon & 1-4pm

6

JoMa is the first-choice lunch stop for many expatriate workers in Vientiane, partly because the large and stylish café is a good place for meetings but mainly because it does a brisk trade in delicious pastries, sandwiches, quiche, muesli, fruit, shakes and coffee. Wi-fi is available for US$2.50 an hour.

Joma Bakery and Cafe: Setthatilath Rd (opposite Khop Chai Deu) T: (021) 215 265

Makphet

7

Run by Friends International, this small restaurant trains homeless youths to cook and wait tables.

The modern Lao cuisine is both interesting and tasty.

Makphet: On the street behind Wat Ong Teu (parallel to Sethathirat Rd and the Mekong River front) T: (021) 260 587

Full Moon Café

8

The relaxed-but-hip look of the Full Moon might lure you in, and once there the Asian fusion food won’t disappoint. The tapas and ever-changing set menus are worth considering.

Full Moon Cafe: Francois Nginn Rd (next to Sticky Fingers) T: (021) 243 373

Laos, Ginger Chicken Cuisine

Jazzy Brick

9

Another bar that buys into the trend of a more sophisticated drinking experience. The entrance is located a few doors down from Joma Bakery and a sign stating the house rule no shorts, singlets or bare feet is prominently displayed.

Jazzy Brick: 47/1 Setthathilat Rd Website : www.jazzybrick.com Phone : 020-2449307

Fujiwara Restaurant

Just west of Wat In Paeng, Fujiwara has an epic menu including all the Japanese favourites and several set meals. Sushi is the specialty and it’s good, but not cheap.

Address : Th Luang Prabang Phone : 21 222210 Price : meals US$6-10

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MINI GUIDE

LAOS, VIENTIANE

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there Buses use three different stations in Vientiane, all with some English-speaking staff. The Northern Bus Station (260255; Th T2), about 2km northwest of the centre, serves all points north of Vang Vieng, including China, and has some buses to Vietnam. The Southern Bus Station (740521; Rte 13 South), commonly known as Dong Dok Bus Station or just khíw lot lák kāo (Km 9 Bus Station), is 9km out of town and serves everywhere south. Buses to Vietnam will usually stop here.

when to go

The best time for visiting most of Laos is between November and February, when it rains the least and is not too hot. It’s also Laos’s main season for both national and regional bun (festivals). If you plan to focus on the mountainous northern provinces, the hot season (from March to May) and early rainy season (around June) is not bad either, as temperatures are moderate at higher elevations.

Sleep Lao Plaza

Plan your itinerary 11

A luxurious choice in the heart of the city, Lao Plaza has all the amenities plus the hefty price tag you’d expect of a five-star hotel. The 100-plus rooms are spacious and outfitted in hushed tones and contemporary Lao furnishings. They are lovely, but generic. Generic five-star hotel.

63 Samsenthai Rd T: (021) 218 800

Don Chan Palace Hotel

12

Having somehow squirmed their way around Vientiane’s development laws that restrict building height, Don Chan Palace is the biggest, tallest, and most expensive hotel in town, and an eyesore along the Mekong riverbank. Vientiane’s superlative hotel. Unit 6, Phiawat, Vientiane T: (021) 244 288

Beau Rivage Mekong 13 The small, contemporary hotel has a lobby decorated with sculptures and artwork. It calls itself an Art Hotel, perhaps because of the sculptures in the lobby.

Its rooms are comfortable, romantic and stylish. They are designed and furnished to complement the relaxing riverfront and the private

Don Chan Palace, Exectutive Suit

leafy rear. garden. Rue Fa Ngum Road, Ban Seetarn Neua. Vientiane 54120, Laos (0)21 243 350

Novotel Vientiane

14

The Novotel Vientiane is a 4 star hotel located close to both the centre of Vientiane and Wattay airport. As the ideal location for business trips and holidays, the hotel offers a range of conference and leisure facilities, plus 172 rooms and an executive floor. Unit 9 Ban Khountathong Samsenthai Road, Sikhotabong +856 212135701

Le Leela Hotel

Tucked away down a quiet lane, Le Leela is a 15-room boutique hotel that had its soft opening in early 2010. The setup is similar to Vila Manoly, its neighbour, and rooms are in a colonial-era house set amid leafy grounds scented by frangipani flowers. An oasis of calm Ban Phiawat 33 Unit 10 T: (021) 214 048;

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

Photos by SreyLeak Bun

Fasten your seatbelts as Ho Chi Minh City is a metropolis on the move – and we’re not just talking about the motorbikes that throng the streets. Saigon, as it’s known to all but city officials, is Vietnam at its most dizzying: a high-octane city of commerce and culture that has driven the whole country forward with its limitless energy.

why go?

Saigon is a name so evocative that it conjures up a thousand jumbled images.

Wander through timeless alleys to ancient pagodas or teeming markets, past ramshackle wooden shops selling silk, spices and baskets, before fast-forwarding into the future beneath sleek skyscrapers or at designer malls, gourmet restaurants and minimalist bars.

MINI GUIDE JUL/AUG 2011

vietnam, saigon

what is there to do?

The Saigon experience is about so many things – memorable conversations, tantalising tastes and moments of frustration – yet it will not evoke apathy. Stick around this conundrum of a city long enough and you may just unravel its mysteries.

See

Eat & Drink

Reunification Palace

Hoi An

1

Time has stood still here since 30 April 1975, a slightly scary thought. The striking modern architecture and the slightly eerie feeling you get as you walk through its deserted halls make Reunification Palace one of the most fascinating sights in HCMC. The building was once the symbol of the South Vietnamese government, which hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese and 58,183 Americans died trying to save.

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War Remnants Museum

2

This museum, dedicated to documenting the various alleged war crimes undertaken by the US, is a must-see. If the only side of the Vietnam War you have seen has been through films such as Platoon, Full Metal Jacket and Apocalypse Now, then a visit here should help bring a bit of balance.

Notre Dame Cathedral

3

Built between 1877 and 1883, Notre Dame Cathedral is set in the heart of HCMC’s government quarter. The cathedral faces Ð Dong Khoi. It is neo-Romanesque with two 40m-high

6

Under the same ownership as Mandarine, this graceful Chinese-style place has an antique motif and cuisine from central Vietnam. Address : 11 Ð Le Thanh Ton Phone : 08 823 7694 Price : mains 70,000-220,000d Hours : lunch & dinner

XU

Saigon night market

square towers tipped with iron spires, which dominate the square here. In front of the cathedral (in the centre of the square bounded by the main post office) is a statue of the Virgin Mary. If the front gates are locked, try the door on the side of the building that faces Reunification Palace.

Xa Loi Pagoda

4

Famed as the repository of a sacred relic of the Buddha, Xa Loi Pagoda was built in 1956. In August 1963 truckloads of armed men under the command of President Ngo Dinh Diem’s brother, Ngo Dinh Nhu, attacked Xa Loi Pagoda, which had become a centre of opposition towards the Diem government. The pagoda was ransacked and 400 monks and nuns, including the country’s 80-year-old Buddhist patriarch, were arrested.

Noodle Crab Soup

7

Sleek modern restaurant in old building serving outstanding Vietnamese fare; dining room on the first floor and beautiful bar on the ground floor; outstanding drinks; located in the heart of Hanoi’s fashion & entertainment district.

Address: 71 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Area: District 1 Phone: +84 8 3824 8468 Prices: Mains: US$ 10.- to US$ 24.-

Mandarine

8

Offering a tempting array of dishes from all regions of the country, and traditional music performances that have a calming effect, even with a crowd. The menu includes mouth-watering Hanoi-style cha ca (filleted fish slices grilled over charcoal).

Address 11A Ð Ngo Van Nam Dong Khoi Area Phone 08 3822 9783

TEMPLE CLUB

9

This classy establishment is housed on the 2nd floor of a stunning colonial-era villa and has been decked out in spiritual motifs. The menu includes delightful dishes such as fish with tamarind or shrimp in coconut milk. The spirited cocktails are a good way to prepare for the experience.

Address: 29–31 Ton That Thiep, Ho Chi Minh city, Vietnam Area: District 1 Phone: +84 8 3824 9244

Zan Z Bar

An ultrahip diner on Dong Du, this place has quickly generated a buzz thanks to its Pacific-Rim fusion cuisine. Try chilli crab noodles or the excellent pita pizzas. Definitely one of the ‘in’ places.

Address41 Ð Dong Du Phone08 3822 7375 Hours10.30am-midnight

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MINI GUIDE

VIETNAM, SAIGON

Getting around

See

Eat & drink

Sleep

Essentials Getting there

map display here..

Intercity buses depart from and arrive at a variety of bus stations around HCMC and are well served by local bus services from Ben Thanh Market. HCMC is one place where the opentour buses really come into their own, as they depart and arrive in the very convenient Pham Ngu Lao area. This saves an extra local bus journey or taxi fare. Most of the open-tour companies sell tickets to Mui Ne (around US$5), Nha Trang (around US$9) and Dalat (around US$8), plus there are night buses to Nha Trang (around US$12).

when to go

Vietnam’s weather is dictated by two monsoons, meaning double trouble on the rain front. The winter monsoon comes from the northeast between October and March, bringing damp and chilly winters to all areas north of Nha Trang, and dry and warm temperatures to the south. From April or May to October, the summer monsoon brings hot, humid weather to the whole country.

Sleep

Plan your itinerary

Renaissance Riverside Hotel

11

A poolside bar and a bar/ lounge are open for drinks.

Recreational amenities include an outdoor pool, a health club, a sauna, a fitness facility, and a steam room. Spa amenities include massage/treatment rooms, facials, and body treatments. This 4.5-star property has a business center, secretarial services, and technology support staff.

High-speed Internet access is available in public areas. Address: 08-15 Ton Duc Thang str., Telephone: (84-8) 38220033

Sofitel Plaza

12

In the heart of central Ho Chi Min City’s diplomatic district the Sofitel is a short walk to the Opera House and also offers some of the best value among the city’s top end lodgings. Superior rooms are a decent size, with a pale green theme, modern art and a natty bedside control panel. Club rooms are similar but more stylish, while suites have kitchenettes and offer huge bathrooms and the best of the views. 17 Le Duan Blvd, District 1, Saigon T: (08) 824 1555;

Norfolk Hotel, Saigon, VietNam

Hotel Majestic

13

Majestic has hosted myriad royals and heads of state, and authors like Graham Greene and Kaiko Takeshi. The rooms, however, are rather spiffing. They come with either a river view or pool view.

1 Dong Khoi St, District 1, Saigon T: (08) 829 5517;

Continental Hotel

14

This 3.0-star property has a business center and offers small meeting rooms, secretarial services, and business services. Complimentary wireless Internet access is available in public areas. so loved by war correspondents. Rooms are roomy indeed and include wood-panelled ceilings. 132 Dong Khoi Street, District 1, Saigon T: (08) 829 9252

Send us your recommendations!

Tell us about your favorite restaurant, hotel or attraction in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanouk Ville, Kep, Kompot, Banttamabang, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Bangkok, Vientiane, and Vietnam.

Email us at info@citylifemagz.com and we’s love to run your recommendations in a future issue.

EMBASSIES INFORMATION AUSTRALIA #. 16B, Assembly Tel: 023 213 470 www.embassy.gov.au

JAPAN #. 194, Norodom Tel: 023 217 161-4 www.kh.emb-japan.go.jp

BELGIUM Phnom Penh Center, Sihanouk Blvd., Block F- Floor 7 Tel: 023-214024

LAOS #. 15-17, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 997 931

BRUNEI #. 237, Street 51 Tel: 023 211 457-8 BRITISH #. 27-29, (St. 75) Tel: 023 427 124 www.ukincambodia.fco.gov.uk BULGARIA #. 227-229, Norodom Tel: 023 217 504 CANADA #. 9, Senei Vinna Vaut Oum Tel: 023 213 470 Ext 417 www.infoexport.gc.ca/kh

MALAYSIA #. 5, Oknha Peich Tel: 023 216 176-7 MALTA #. 10, Street 370 Tel: 023 368 184 MYANMAR #181, Norodom, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 223761 www.phnompenh.um.dk FRANCE #1, Preah Monivong Tel: 023 430 020-2 www.ambafrance-kh.org

CHINA #156, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 720 920-1

GERMANY # 76-78, Yougoslavie Tel: 023 216 193 www.phnom-penh.diplo.de

DENMARK #8, Street 352 Tel: 023 987629

INDIA # 5, Chakrey Nhek Tioulong Tel: 023 210 912-3

N. KOREA #50-52, Samdech Pan Tel: 023 211 900-3 www.khm.mofat.go.kr

INDONESIA #1, Chakrey Nhek Tioulong Tel: 023 216 148

PHILIPPINES #15Z, Street 422 Tel: 023 222 303-4 POLAND #767, Monivong

PAKISTAN # 45, Street 310 Tel: 023 996 890-1 RUSSIA # 213, Sothearos Tel: 023 210 931

AIRLINES INFORMATION Air Asia # Cambodia International Airport Tel: 023 890 035

Cambodia Angkor Air # Mao Tse Toung, 12306 Tel: 023 023 666 786-8

Angkor Airways Corp # 32, Norodom, 12205 Tel: 023 222 056-8

Cebu Parcific Airways #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 219 161

Angkor Asian Air Co. Ltd # Phnom Penh International Airp Tel: 023 726 672

China Southern Airline Co.Ltd #53, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 430 877

Bangkok Airways # 61A. Samdech Pan (St. 214) Tel: 023 426 624

Eva Airway Coroporation #11-14B, St. 217 Tel: 023 210 303

TRANSPORTATION IN Hong Kong Dragon Airline #168, Monireth Tel: 023 424 300 Indochina Airlines #36B, Mao Tse Tung Boulevard Tel: 023 994 502-3 Jetstar Airways #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air #254, Monivong Blvd, RoomF3 Tel: 023 224 047-9 Lao Airlines #111, Sihanouk Blvd Tel: 023 424 300 Leisure Cargo Ltd #171-173 E0-E3, St. 110 Tel: 023 890 980 Pacific Crown Air Limited # 254, Monivong Boulevard Tel: 023 723 244 Philippine Airlines #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 291 161 Qatar Airways #333B, Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 218 040 Shang Hai Airlines #19, St. 106 Tel: 023 723 999 Silk Air #313, Sisowath, Himawari Hotel Tel: 023 426 806 Singapore Airlines #313, Sisowath, Himawari Hotel Tel: 023 426 807 Thai Airways International Pub-l #International Airport Tel: 023 890 292 Thai Airways International Pub-l #294, Mao Tse Toung Tel: 023 214 359 Vietnam Airlines #41, Samdech Pan Tel: 023 215 998 Lufthansa Co.Ltd #171-173 E0, Stt. 110 Tel: 023 213 325-6v

Drop us an E-mail for your further update information: info@citylifemagz.com

PHNOM PENH

Taxi CHOICE Taxi Time=24 hours 2000 Riels for first 1.2km Tel: 023 888 023, 069 888 069 Boat Excursions-Rental Seng Hour Boat Rental Size: 4mx22m, Boat two floors & Time Open: from 5.00 PM For Cambodia $1/h For Foreigner $ 5/h Tel: 023 723 476 Tuk Tuk Take you everywhere in town!

Mr. Bun Leang Tel: 011 36 37 80 Mr. Deth Tel: 017 619 386 Mr. Bou Sokun Tel: 012 50 34 69 Mr. Thai Tuk Tuk The Surviver Tel: 011 722 788 / 092 774 227 ( English, Thai Spoken ) Car Rental LYNA-CARRENTAL.COM Price $250-1,1500/month or $15-40/day Airport Taxi service OW=$9.00 & RT=$15 Tel: 012 924517 (English) Tel: 012 554 247 (Khmer) www.lyna-carrental.com Larryta Trading & Travel Co., Ltd (Car Rental) Available all kinds of vehicles for rent: Sedan, Land Cruiser, Pajero, 4WD (Wagon, Pick up), Mini Van, VIP Tel: 023 994 748 Nยบ. 9, Street 310 Phnom Peh Motor Rental Angkor Motorcycles Sale - Rent - Repair Motorcycles & Visa Service. Available all kinds of Motorcycles for Sale & Rent: AX-1, Degree, BAJA, XLR, XR, Dream & Auto Bikes Nยบ. 92Eo, Pasteur (St. 51), between Street 172 & 174 angkormotorcycles@yahoo.com Tel: 012 722 098 / 012 222 205 Fax: 023 986 333 Vannak Bikes Shop # 40Eo, Khemarak Phoumin (St. 130) Tel: 012 220 970 Sean Ly Motor Repairing Shop Kampot # 27, Seong Ngok Minh Street, 1 Usaphea Village. Tel: 012 944 687 Phnom Penh Motor #645, Oknha Khleang Moeung (St. 70) Tel: 023 991 535 Little Bikes #178 Street 13 (between St. 178 and 172), Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel: 023991570 (English & Khmer) info@littlebikescambodia.com

Bali Island Traveling with family has never been so fun

If

you are looking for something different from the normal resort vacation and back to the natural ... Bali Indonesia this is the place for family bonding moment. A great place to relax, have fun and explore.

Fabulous activities, awaits you in a lot of resort in Bali. The staff there may not speak good English but sufficient to understand your needs and make simple conversation. They have knowledge and expertise to guide on many activities, like kayaking, archery and etc., in which the whole family can enjoy and explore. Staff is polite and courteous. There are more than enough restaurant to fill you’re y craving for Indonesian delicacies.

To spend your family day kayaking to the mangrove and rock island, swimming, and explore the beach in the afternoon when the tides are low. .. There a lot of surprise Indonesia offers to travelers. Treasure hunting in the beach, during low tides perfectly fun for your kids. There are sufficient activities to keep everyone occupied.

Here’s brief information about good and interesting sights on the island of Gods.

94 july-august 2011 citylife

Kintamani,

located in Bangli regency, which offers beautiful views of the lake while enjoying lunch.

Enjoy the beauty of mountain and Lake Batur that emits smoke that beautify the atmosphere.

Sukawati Art Market

Dreamland Beach,

located in Ungasan area, Pecatu famous, for its beautiful beaches and challenging waves. For sports enthusiasts surf, this place is a favorite. Do not miss also to visit the sights around this place like GWK, Uluwatu Temple, Beach and Coastal Nyangnyang Suluban.

Street Celuk Karangasem - Singaraja, On the way to the

Karangasem Buleleng district through Celuk Road, we can witness the natural beauty of the landscape rocks highest volcano in Bali, volcanic Agung. In this trip will go through several tourist attractions such as Amed, Tulamben, Les Villages, and Water Sanih and enjoy the scenery beautiful all the way.

Until the present day, Sukawati art market has become a favorite shopping place for employees who travel on vacation on the island of Bali.

Bali Resort Quality time for the whole family

Ubud Want to know the art centers

in Bali and places where they can find the real life of Balinese people?

Ubud is the answer. Ubud, located in Gianyar regency, had always been known as an arts village.

Uluwatu

lies at the southern tip of Bali Uluwatu temple displays the beauty that stands firmly on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Nusa Dua - Tanjung Benoa

Nusa Dua tourist area famous for the BTDC (Bali Tourism Development Center) and Tanjung Benoa, famous as a center for water sports in Bali.

Bedugul tourist area offers several tourist objects that can be visited including Bedugul Botanical Garden which offers natural attractions such as the Treetop.

recycle fashion Photographer RooSter_KooL Talent Ashleigh Campbell Designer Hung Chin Jewelry Happy Silk Make Up Honey Salon Assistant Eng Bunkim

flashback This giant bubble displayed center of city

Happened: Last 22nd May, 2011 - Photo by SreyLeak Bun The giant bubble is for walking on water, for floating on water, its a float tank, a dance ball, a display bubble for placing products inside and for use in show business productions, TV shows and for your own creative ideas.

It comes with waterproof, airtight zipper. Once it is inflated, player can stay inside and walking, jumping, rolling and flipping on the water Clothed. Players can open the zipper a little bit and use a blower inside the ball to change fresh air.

Romantic Night inside the Love bubble!! You can spend a romantic night with your lover in the love bubble and enjoy the romantic floating experience.

photo exhibition of award winning khmer photographer Happened: Last 24th May, 2011- Photo by SreyLeak Bun

Award-wining Khmer photographer Eng Sothy grew up in a rural area along the Mekong. With his camera he follows the daily life in Cambodia’s countryside for his first MetaHouse exhibition FAR FROM PHNOM PENH. Name: Sothy Eng, Ph.D., Texas Tech University Postdoctoral Fellow: UCLA Nationality: Cambodian Currently a Professor at Lehigh University in Pennsylvania, USA

luxury wedding fair at sofitel phnom penh phokeethra

Happened: Last 4th-5th June, 2011- Photo by LiveStudios Photography Singapore Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra hosted a four-day Luxury Wedding Fair, last June 2-5, 2011, celebrating the art of wedding with workshops, one-on-one consultations and displays by local and regional creators.

Reputable names in the wedding industry -- including Malaysian company The Wedding Planners, and couture wedding collection designers La Flaire -collaborated with the Sofitel for the event, bloom the hotel’s grand ballroom, garden and poolside. The Luxury Wedding Fair marks the first luxury international wedding exhibition in Cambodia, which is also a proof of the country’s growing appeal as a romance destination.

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