Pusaka
BY:
EDW I N
C H A R M A I N
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Pusaka d Pusaka, meaning treasure or heirloom in Sanskrit, is a silver filigree jewellery collection inspired by Indonesian batik iconography and Master-craftsmanship. With a narrative that stems from the journey of Indonesia batik to the heart of its modern society, Pusaka highlights the dilemma for today’s batik community. Sustainability and survivability of Indonesia handcrafted batik in this global era, is at risk due to the popularity of knock-offs created by the big textile and garment industries. Pusaka rejects the modern culture of mass production and mass consumption by utilising traditional hand skills and technique to create smaller numbers of individual pieces.
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PEKALONGAN
KOTAGEDE
BEHI ND PUSAKA
PROJECT INTRODUCTION: The wax resist dyeing technique is part of ancient art form, for thousands of years people have been decorating fabrics with various patterns using this technique. Although this technique had been known in various part of the world, It was only in Java that this technique was highly developed, resulting in a creation of a product that has a rich design, complex colouring technique, and delicate detail, which we known today as batik. Writing by Lee (2007, p.21) suggested that “Like many other textiles produced in Southeast Asia, batik patterns are more than a form of decoration. They are significant symbols that
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express various local identities for the people in Java.�
The approximate location of Pekalongan and Kotagede on Java Island Indonesia.
Its motifs have acquired a wide variety of cultural influence, and the meaning that each pattern suggest are poetic.
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Starting from the number of elements that built the design to
Traditional batik craftsman from
the way those elements are being depicted signifies a deeper
Pekalongan City, Central Java.
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meaning than what meets the eye.
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I N S PI R ATI ON
Re-constructing elements found in Indonesia traditional batik pattern using structures from plants and buildings, Charmain re-invents ancient local traditions then explores them through
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jewellery.
Moodboard Inspiration. By deconstructing and reconstructing the elements found RIGHT: Pistia Stratiotes / Shellflower plants.
on shellflower, Charmain creates his imaginary plants that symbolise a cycle of life from birth to death.
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MAKI NG P ROCESS
Co-designing and collaborating with his local filigree mastercraftsman from Kota Gede, Indonesia, Charmain has invented a new filigree technique rooted in the traditional way of making. Recycled sterling silver has been chosen to build this body of work due to its malleable and light characteristic. This material offers a collection a delighting in voluminous yet light Jewellery pieces that express the organic movement and delicate qualities found in handcrafted batik.
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P USAKA & T H E MODEST FASHI ON CULTURE
The Pusaka collection works within the modest fashion context, covering the different type of modesty whether it is for religious purposes (e.g. covering with headscarf or wig) or non-religious purposes (modest as a lifestyle). This market is part of the global trend that is already reported by global Islamic economy report worth hundreds of billions and is set to scale up by gargantuan proportions over the next five years. Using smart, elegant and trendy as keywords, The consumer who buys and wear Pusaka collection is fashion-forward, open-minded, and embrace cultural heritage. They like to have fun with the way they dress by dressing up or down through layering and always paying attention to the little details through the use of jewellery. Pusaka women
TOP: Moodboard Inspiration. RIGHT: KUSUMA Brooch as a headscarf fastening
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projects who they are and what they believe through the way they dress. Women with similar traits and value could be found worldwide starting from Indonesia to Malaysia, India, Dubai, London and Brooklyn.
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कुज / कुजा KujA SON OF THE EARTH / EARTH-DAUGHTER.
MATERIAL : Recycled 925 Silver. DIMENSION : 21.5 x 23 cm. WEIGHT : 34 grams. DESCRIPTION : Being raised by the sun in a world walked by stars and a sky drawn of flowers, I am the child of the earth, 12 | PU SAKA COL L ECT I O N | C H A R M A IN
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किरण KiraNa THREAD / R AY O R B E A M O F L I G H T.
MATERIAL : Recycled 925 Silver. DIMENSION : 15 x 4 cm and 10 x 4 cm. WEIGHT : 11 grams. DESCRIPTION : Dancing on the sky, a wondrous spectacular ray of light beaming like a shooting star. Born from the sun, I am the spark and the flame of hope C H A RMA I N | P U SA KA CO L L EC T ION | 17
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पत्त्र pattra W I N G / L E A F.
MATERIAL : Recycled 925 Silver. DIMENSION : 7 x 2.7 cm. WEIGHT : 7 grams. DESCRIPTION : I am the wind in the trees, and the song of a bird. I am a wings of freedom, a gentle touch, a warm embrace. 20 | PU SAKA COL L ECT I O N | C H A R M A IN
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कोमल komala GENTLE, TENDER, A N D D E L I C AT E .
MATERIAL : Recycled 925 Silver. DIMENSION : 21.5 x 11.5 cm. WEIGHT : 26 grams. DESCRIPTION : Dancing to the song of the wind, I spread my petals out, as glorious as can be. I am the embodiment of beauty and elegance, lovely and delicate. C H A RMA I N | P U SA KA CO L L EC T ION | 25
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पुष्प puSpa FLOWER.
MATERIAL : Recycled 925 Silver. DIMENSION : 7 x 4 cm. WEIGHT : 7 grams. DESCRIPTION : Passions grow from a simple seeds and welling up with inner needs. I am the warmth of nature’s grace and the symbol of life & resilience. 28 | PU SAKA COL L ECT I O N | C H A R M A IN
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दल dala P E TA L .
MATERIAL : Recycled 925 Silver. DIMENSION : 15 x 5.1 cm WEIGHT : 15 grams. DESCRIPTION : So light and soft the days fall, like petals one by one. Down from the tree whose flowers all must vanish on the sun. I am the sweet scent of spring breeze and the bringer of hope. C H A RMA I N | P U SA KA CO L L EC T ION | 33
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काश kAza WHITE FLOWER.
MATERIAL : Recycled 925 Silver. DIMENSION : 9.5 x 8 cm WEIGHT : 10 grams. DESCRIPTION : Being kissed by the wind of fall; For the love that is purest and sweetest. I am the symbol of innocence and brilliance. 36 | PU SAKA COL L ECT I O N | C H A R M A IN
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