DIM SUM... and Then Some by Kikkoman

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DIM SUM ...and then

WINTER 2010

for culinary insiders

. . . m u S e m m o Di S n e h and T

Dear Friend, Translated literally, “dim sum” means “to touch the heart.” And whether you enjoy these tasty treats at a restaurant or serve them at home, they’re a true gift of hand and heart, because they’re lovingly crafted, one by one, into perfect little bite-size packages. Some are soft and delicate, some meaty and intense, some crisp and crunchy. And then there are all those fabulous sauces for dipping and drizzling. That’s my idea of heaven. Which is why the whole “small plates” trend makes me so happy. Seems like just about every culture on the planet has its own version of dim sum, and now that tapas, mezes and more are turning up in restaurants everywhere, I’m on a mission to try them all!

itting at a big round table with a congenial group of friends, downing cup after cup of hot tea and choosing from a seemingly endless array of delectable small

dishes rolling by on carts—that’s the dim sum experience. And if “dim sum” literally means “to touch the heart,” you can rest assured that these delicious tidbits will have an equally pleasant effect on your taste buds. The Canton region in the south of China perfected the art

In this issue of K, we’re celebrating that idea with a user’s guide to enjoying dim sum—both in restaurants and at home—and a look at some of today’s most popular international small-plate foods.

of dim sum, which was then transplanted around the world

It’s our gift from the heart, just for you, and I hope it inspires you to try some dim sum—and some other exciting nibbles from around the world. I hope, too, that the recipes and articles in this issue serve as a friendly reminder: whether you’re eating out or you’re looking for an entertaining idea with big flavors and big fun, follow your heart . . . and remember, it’s okay to “think small”!

dumplings, vegetables, sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves,

by Cantonese emigrants. Originally a midafternoon snack to accompany tea, dim sum is now often eaten at breakfast or lunch. Noodle dishes, steamed buns, fried or steamed soups and even sweets all have a place on the dim sum menu. Though dim sum originated in China, the small-plate concept is popular across a wide span of global cuisines. Spanish tapas, Middle Eastern mezes, Russian zakuski all express the convivial spirit of dim sum in another language. And it’s a great idea for home entertaining—so why not offer some dim sum selections at your next

Chef Helen Roberts Manager of Culinary Development www.kikkomanusa.com

inside

WINTER 2010

F E AT U R E S Dim Sum...and Then Some 3 Dim Sum...What’s on the Cart? 4 A Cook’s Tour of Small Plates 6 SIDEBARS Dim Sum...Buy Some! 5 Getting Saucy 12 The Lingo 13 TECHNIQUE Full Steam Ahead! 2

cocktail party?

RECIPES Chinese BBQ Pork Buns Foil-Baked Chicken Finger-Licking Ribs Asian Coleslaw with Candied Walnuts PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT Rice Vinegar and Seasoned Rice Vinegar

8 8 9 9

12 3

Dim Sum . . . What's on the Cart?

Shared food, shared experience—that’s what strengthens the connections between people. Food forges social bonds in every culture, but a meal of Chinese dim sum takes it to a whole new level. There are countless varieties of dim sum, with new ones invented every day. In fact, there’s a teahouse in the Canton region of China that offers two thousand different dim sum on a rotating basis! Here’s a sampling of some of the more common ones you might enjoy: Dumplings: Savory pork, seafood or vegetable filling wrapped in tender wheat or rice flour wrappers, then steamed, boiled or pan-fried—however they’re made, dumplings are ubiquitous on the dim sum cart. Pork-stuffed pot stickers are pan-fried, then boiled or steamed until tender. Delicate steamed shrimp shu mai are wrapped in a thin skin that lets the pink filling show through. Chinese chives often add flavor and color to shrimp- or pork-based fillings. Breads: Bread dough is another favorite way to enclose fillings. The stuffed dough is then baked, pan-fried or steamed. Bao (buns), made from a raised dough filled with savory char siu pork or sweet bean or lotus seed paste, are steamed until light and fluffy. Baked bao are brushed with egg glaze to make a golden crust. Pan-fried scallion pancakes are chewy and satisfying with a flaky, layered texture.

Rice Dishes: Rice and rice flour figure in many dim sum dishes. Sheets of rice flour batter are steamed and wrapped around meat or vegetable fillings, or simply rolled and topped with sweetened soy sauce. Packets of sticky rice mixed with mushrooms, chicken, shrimp and Chinese sausage, wrapped in lotus leaves and then steamed, are fun to unfold, as well as to eat. Thick congee (rice porridge) makes a satisfying breakfast.

Vegetables: The freshness of gai lan (Chinese broccoli), tender pea shoots or baby bok choy makes a nice contrast with dough-wrapped buns and dumplings. These greens are quickly sautéed and often finished with oyster sauce or soy sauce. Mushrooms and bell peppers are stuffed with a shrimp-and-pork filling, then pan-fried. Turnip cake, made with grated daikon radish, studded with scallions, cilantro and sometimes Chinese sausage, has a crunchy crust and a creamy inside.

Deep-fried Dishes: Deep-frying adds satisfying crunch to breaded shrimp paste wrapped around crab claws. The same mixture, spread on toast triangles and deep-fried, is transformed into the ever-popular shrimp toast. And who doesn’t love deep-fried spring rolls—crisp flour wrappers enclosing savory meat or vegetable fillings?

Desserts: Though desserts are not usually served after a Chinese meal, the dim sum experience is not complete without a little taste of something sweet. Typical choices include egg custard in a flaky pastry shell, refreshing mango or almond pudding, crunchy deep-fried sesame balls filled with bean paste, and beautifully cut and presented fresh fruit.

Meat: Char siu, or hoisin-marinated roast pork, fills pork bao and rice noodle sheets, enlivens sticky rice and is delicious thinly sliced on its own. Pork spareribs seasoned with soy sauce, hot chilies, garlic and fermented black beans before steaming are rich and tender. Though pork is the meat found most often in dim sum dishes, roast duck and foil-wrapped chicken are also favorites. The more adventurous diner can sample tripe, chicken feet and even duck tongues!

Dim Sum...Buy Some! Looking for an easy way to “cater” a cocktail party or casual gathering with tasty nibbles? If your city has a Chinatown or a Chinese restaurant, bakery or deli that features dim sum items, you’re in luck. Drop by or call ahead and order a selection of baked, fried and steamed items, figuring about six pieces per person per hour. If you like, you can round out the menu with some “filler” items, like fried rice or noodles. Reheat baked and fried items in a 250˚F oven and serve on platters, trays or a chafing dish. Reheat and serve steamed items in bamboo steamer baskets. Serve Kikkoman Soy Sauce, Ponzu, Plum Sauce and other sauces on the side for dipping. 5

…And Then Some: A Cook’s Tour of Small Plates China is famous for dim sum, but the notion of small-plate dining can be found just about anywhere in the world where people gather to nibble, sip and socialize. Often, a selection of small plates is served as a first course before a meal, but an assortment of tastes from around the globe can make a meal on their own, or accompany drinks at your next cocktail party. In Spain, a popular evening pastime is going from bar to bar, drinking sherry and nibbling on tapas. Thinly sliced ham, squares of tortilla española (potato omelet), albondigas (meatballs), olives, small sausages, grilled vegetables and fish with garlicky aioli sauce are just a few of the tapas you might find—all served in small portions, so it’s easy to sample a variety of tastes.

Boil small potatoes, cut in half and grill. Serve with garlic mayonnaise enlivened with Kikkoman Ponzu.

Cicchetti are small snacks or side dishes served in wine bars in Venice, Italy. Popular cicchetti include tiny sandwiches, olives, marinated vegetables, hard-boiled eggs and small portions of seafood, meat and vegetables on soft polenta.

Top soft polenta (in Venice, white polenta is most commonly used, but yellow polenta is just as good) with mushrooms sautéed with garlic and rosemary. Add a splash of Kikkoman Soy Sauce to bump up the natural umami of the mushrooms.

Russians wash down snacks called zakuski with shots of vodka. On a well-stocked zakuski table, you’ll find seafood like herring, smoked salmon or smoked whitefish; caviar accompanied by black bread, onions, and hard-cooked eggs; purées of spinach, beets or eggplant to spread on lavosh; and a variety of salads and pickled vegetables.

Peel and grate carrots and apples and toss with a dressing made from Kikkoman Seasoned Rice Vinegar, olive oil, horseradish and sugar. Garnish with walnuts.

The food served at Japanese izakaya—sake bars that serve food— could be described as pub food, but that doesn’t begin to convey the range of dishes you’ll encounter at these lively gathering places. With everything from yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) and kara-age (fried chicken nuggets) to sashimi and agedashi tofu (fried tofu in broth) on offer, there’s something for every taste on the izakaya menu.

Thread cubes of boneless chicken breast or thigh meat on skewers and grill, basting frequently with your favorite variety of Kikkoman Teriyaki Takumi Collection Sauce.

The Spanish word antojo, or craving, is the root of antojitos—Mexican street foods that satisfy that sudden urge to snack. The category encompasses tacos, tostadas, enchiladas and a variety of toppings, like beans, meat, cabbage and salsa, on a masa (cornmeal) base. Though they're often considered casual, inexpensive street fare, many restaurants in Mexico serve antojitos as appetizers, accompanied by beans, guacamole and totopos (crispy corn chips).

Mezes are small dishes served all over the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East as an appetizer course or with drinks. Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, the Balkans, Israel, Jordan and Syria have all contributed to the long list of dishes served as mezes. Highlights include fattoush, a salad made from vegetables and toasted pita bread; tabbouleh, bulgur salad with parsley, mint, tomato and cucumbers; dips made with chickpeas or eggplant; and feta cheese drizzled with olive oil and served with kalamata olives.

Mix diced mango and jicama with chopped green onion, jalapeño and cilantro. Add a dressing made with Kikkoman Lime Ponzu, lime juice and brown sugar for a refreshing salsa to accompany your favorite antojitos.

OR: Add a splash of Kikkoman Lime Ponzu to guacamole instead of lime juice and salt. You’ll get richer, deeper, beautifully rounded flavor.

If you like your dips extra spicy, spike or garnish store-bought hummus with Kikkoman Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce to your taste, and serve with toasted pita triangles.

Antipasto means "before the meal" and is the traditional first course of a formal Italian meal. Traditional antipasti include cured meats, cheeses, olives, roasted garlic, peperoncini, anchovies, marinated artichoke hearts, toasted bread crostini topped with spreads or pâtés, and arancini (deepfried rice balls). Since so many of the elements of an antipasto table can be purchased at an Italian deli, it’s a great stress-free entertaining option.

To make arancini, form small balls from leftover risotto, dip in beaten egg and roll in Kikkoman Panko Bread Crumbs. Deep-fry until golden and crisp. For variety, tuck small cubes of mozzarella cheese into the center of the balls before you bread them.

for culinary insiders WINTER 2010

CHINESE BBQ PORK BUNS

WINTER 2010

FINGER-LICKING RIBS

It’s easy to make Chinese-style pork buns with bread dough from the refrigerator case and a quick trip to Chinatown for barbecued pork. Kikkoman Oyster Sauce and Soy Sauce add rich umami flavor to the filling. 2 1 1 ¼ 2 1 1 2 1 2

for culinary insiders

tablespoons vegetable oil small onion, chopped clove garlic, chopped cup Kikkoman Oyster Sauce tablespoons Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce tablespoon sherry tablespoon cornstarch teaspoons sugar pound Chinese barbecued pork, chopped (11-ounce) packages refrigerated bread dough

Pork ribs are a great dim sum dish, but they’re just as good at a cocktail party or on a buffet table. A slow simmer with soy sauce, sherry and sugar makes this version extra-scrumptious! 4 2 1 ½ ¼ 2

pounds baby back pork ribs, cut into 1-inch pieces teaspoons garlic powder, divided tablespoon vegetable oil cup Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce cup dry sherry tablespoons brown sugar, packed

Toss ribs with 1 teaspoon garlic powder. Heat oil in Dutch oven or casserole. In 2 batches, brown ribs. Drain fat from pan; return ribs to pan and add ½ cup water, remaining garlic powder, soy sauce, sherry and sugar. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour or until ribs are tender.

Heat oven to 375°F. In a wok or large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; stir-fry until onion is soft. Remove from heat; add oyster sauce, soy sauce, sherry, cornstarch and sugar, stirring well to combine. Add pork and mix well. Divide bread dough into 16 pieces and form each piece into a 2-inch ball. Flatten balls into 3-inch rounds. Place about 2 tablespoons pork filling in the center of each round. Gather dough up and around filling by pleating along the edges. Place buns, sealed side down, on a nonstick baking sheet. Bake 25–30 minutes or until buns are browned.

Makes 8 servings

Makes 16 buns

WINTER 2010

FOIL-BAKED CHICKEN

skinless, boneless chicken thighs cup cornstarch cup Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce cup Kikkoman Hoisin Sauce cup brown sugar, packed cup chopped cilantro tablespoons minced ginger cloves garlic, chopped (12-inch-square) pieces aluminum foil

WINTER 2010

A colorful coleslaw is a great addition to any party or meal. This Asian-style slaw is a colorful mix of red cabbage, jicama and carrots, with an added kick from a citrusy dressing made with Kikkoman Lime Ponzu. 4 1 ½ 2 ½ 6 ¼ ½ 1

Cut chicken into 1-inch-square pieces. In a mixing bowl, combine cornstarch, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sugar, cilantro, ginger and garlic. Add chicken and toss to coat. Refrigerate, covered, at least 30 minutes. Heat oven to 400°F. Fold each piece of foil in half twice to make a 6-inch square. Place a spoonful of chicken in the center of each piece of foil, dividing it equally. Fold foil squares on the diagonal; fold edges to seal. Place on a nonstick baking sheet and bake 20 minutes, or until chicken is no longer pink in the center. Makes 18 packets 8

for culinary insiders

ASIAN COLESLAW WITH CANDIED WALNUTS

Wrapping marinated chicken in foil for baking is a great way to seal in all the flavorful goodness. Serve it as part of a dim sum selection, or with a green salad and steamed rice as a satisfying meal. 6 ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2 2 18

for culinary insiders

cups shredded red cabbage cup shredded jicama cup shredded carrots tablespoons chopped cilantro cup Kikkoman Lime Ponzu tablespoons sesame oil cup orange juice teaspoon grated ginger cup candied walnuts*

In a large bowl, toss together cabbage, jicama, carrots and cilantro. Whisk together ponzu, sesame oil, orange juice and ginger; pour over cabbage mixture and toss together. Sprinkle with candied walnuts. Makes 8 servings *To make candied walnuts, place 1 cup walnuts and ½ cup sugar in a skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and turns light brown. Toss to coat walnuts. Remove skillet from heat; stir in ½ teaspoon vanilla and ½ teaspoon cinnamon. Spread walnuts on aluminum foil to cool. 9

Full Steam Ahead! What could be more appetizing than the aroma that greets you when you lift the lid from a bamboo steamer? Steaming is a popular—and healthy—cooking technique, because it keeps food moist and juicy without losing any of the flavor and nutrients. If you want to try steaming at home, here are a few tips: • Designed to fit over a wok with a small amount of boiling water, the stacking bamboo steamers that make the rounds in dim sum houses are inexpensive and attractive. Look for them in Asian shops or online. • You can improvise a steamer from equipment you already have in your own kitchen; for example, use an empty tuna can with both ends removed to support a plate above boiling water in a pot or wok. • When you open a steamer, tilt the lid away from you and let some of the steam escape so you don’t get burned. And don’t lift the steamer lid too often, or you’ll slow down the cooking! • For a quick and easy dish that makes its own sauce as it steams, place scallops or fish fillets on a plate, top with grated ginger and sliced scallions and drizzle with Kikkoman Soy Sauce.

Kikkoman Rice Vinegar and Seasoned Rice Vinegar Kikkoman Rice Vinegar, made from fermented glutinous rice, is clear and light, with a ‘touch of sweetness. Although they have a higher vinegar content than vinegars made from wine, Kikkoman Rice Vinegar and Seasoned Rice Vinegar are milder in flavor. This wellbalanced acidity means they’re great not only in Asian, but also in Hispanic, European and American, cuisine.

With zero fat and no calories, Kikkoman Rice Vinegar is a healthy way to add flavor to your dishes. Its pleasant tartness can brighten the flavor of soups and stews without overpowering them. And because it’s colorless, Kikkoman Rice Vinegar is perfect for making pickles, too. If you like to make sushi at home, it’s easy with Kikkoman Seasoned Rice Vinegar. It already has sugar and salt in it, so you can just sprinkle it onto hot rice and stir it in. It’s also great in salad dressings, particularly with ginger or sesame oil, and its lower acidity means that you need less oil to balance the tartness of salad dressings. For a quick and refreshing salad, toss ribbons of cucumber (use a vegetable peeler to cut thin, lengthwise strips) with Kikkoman Seasoned Rice Vinegar, sesame oil and red pepper flakes and garnish with black sesame seeds.

The Lingo

Getting Saucy

Here’s a mini-glossary of some terms you’ll run across on a dim sum menu:

Sauces and condiments add another layer of flavor to dim sum. It’s not cool to douse your dumplings in straight soy sauce, since each item on a dim sum menu has its appropriate sauce or condiment—your waiter will be happy to steer you to the right one. And when you’re serving dim sum at home, you’ve got all kinds of great Kikkoman products to choose from.

product spotlight

SPOTLIGHT ON TECHNIQUE

Restaurant Condiment

Kikkoman Sauce to Use at Home

Plum Sauce: Chutney-like plum sauce also goes by the name duck sauce, because it’s frequently served with Peking duck

Kikkoman Plum Sauce is perfect with dim sum and appetizers right from the bottle

Sweet & Sour Sauce: A must for fried wontons, spring rolls and other crispy fried finger foods

Kikkoman Dipping Sauce, Sweet & Sour is ready to use as a condiment for finger foods

Soy-Vinegar Sauce: A blend of soy sauce and vinegar with a touch of sugar is a classic accompaniment for pot stickers and other pan-fried dumplings

Kikkoman Ponzu (lemon or lime) makes a great ready-to-use dipping sauce for dumplings. Or blend Kikkoman Soy Sauce with a little Kikkoman Rice Vinegar and sugar

Hoisin Sauce: Used as a condiment for buns or pancakes with Peking duck wrapped inside

Kikkoman Hoisin sauce brings home authentic restaurant flavor

Chili Paste: Fiery chili garlic paste is served as an all-purpose condiment for people who like to add a spicy kick to their dim sum

Kikkoman Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce has just the right balance of sweet and heat for dipping

Bao: Fluffy buns made from wheat flour with sweet or savory fillings, baked or steamed Congee: Thick rice porridge with meat, seafood, duck, preserved eggs or vegetables Char siu: Hoisin-marinated pork used as a filling for bao and dumplings Gai lan: Chinese broccoli Shu mai: Small steamed dumplings filled with pork, prawns or a combination, in a thin wheat flour wrapper that’s open at the top to reveal the filling Ha gow: Pleated, purse-shaped dumplings filled with shrimp and bamboo shoots and steamed

for culinary insiders

K™ magazine is a journal of tastes, techniques and trends for food enthusiasts, published twice a year by KIKKOMAN SALES USA, INC. To subscribe or submit material for consideration, contact www.kikkomanusa.com.

www.kikkomanusa.com 415-956-7750