Forum Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2009
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WAYS TO MULTIPLY YOUR WARDROBE
INTO THE WOODS IT’S ALL ABOUT
QUALITY NORTH COAST STYLE:
FALL FASHION 2009
The magazine of
Kilgore trout cleveland, ohio
Pure Cashmere Pinstripe Suits
28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 www.kilgoretrout.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Fran Salamon PRODUCTION MANAGER
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
FEATURES 3 4 12 13
Welcome Letter Fashion Sketchbook Kilgore Trout News Footwear: Made in Suede
FASHION 18 20 22 24 32
It’s in the Details: Shopping for Suits Anatomy of a Quality Shoe Cashmere: A Guide to Value Into the Woods Accessories Make the Man
DEPARTMENTS 14 38 40 44 48 50 52
Ask Forum Travel: Woodland Whimsy Food: A Recipe for Design Speed: The Tesla Roadster Art: Modern Times Chef Style: Scott Boswell of Stella End Page: Regrets Only
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK, TX, BURLINGAME, CA Mario’s PORTLAND, OR, SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 13 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2009. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.
Chuck Close | Recent Work On view at Contessa Gallery September 11 — November 1, 2009 Please visit our website for opening reception details and related events. Don't miss the concurrent exhibition at Akron Art Museum:
Familiar Faces: Chuck Close in Ohio Collections 09/05/09 — 01/03/10
Public Symposium Sunday, October 11 Generously sponsored by Contessa Gallery and Akron Art Museum's George & Ethel Nobil Fund.
Up Close and Personal with Chuck Close's Friends Linda Rosenkrantz, Mark Greenwold and Christopher Finch
Known as the subject of the Akron Art Museum’s massive, incredibly detailed, nine-foot painting Linda, Rosenkrantz, along with fellow Close subject Mark Greenwold, and Close biographer Christopher Finch will share their unique perspective of Close’s work. Hosted at Akron Main Library Auditorium adjacent to the Akron Art Museum. Tickets at akronartmuseum.org.
Visit contessagallery.com for links and additional details.
Phil/Fingerprint, 2009. Chuck Close (b. 1949-), Screenprint in 25 colors, 54 x 46 inches.
Legacy Village 24667 Cedar Road Lyndhurst Ohio 216.382.7800
contessagallery.com
welcome
‘‘
Every time you open your wallet, consider whether the money stays local.’’
BRICKS AND MORTAR MATTER It's the locally owned independents that make a community. By Wally Naymon, Kilgore Trout shopkeeper Let me get right to the point: There's only one Cleveland. There's only one Northeast Ohio. It's a place we're proud to call home — and we should all be willing to fight for the vitality of our region. The last few years have offered a wake-up call to us all. The go-go 90s are gone-gone, and all that we took for granted we no longer can. It wasn't long ago that you might do some of your shopping in Cleveland, some in New York, and some still on your travels around the globe. It seemed there was enough money to go around, and we were all doing just fine. Times have changed, and it's come into focus just how important our collective support of local business has become. It's the local guys who give back to the community time and again — our friends whose ads you see in Forum: Chef Zack Bruell, Contessa Gallery, Stoddard Auto, and the rest are the people who walk the walk. And your favorite deli, the establishments in Little Italy, and the Cedar Lee, too. When you patronize them, or us, you're keeping it local. And in addition to keeping people employed, your dol-
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lars go right back into our area's economy and the civic and cultural organizations these independent businesses support in ways large and small. I've just become the president of the Apparel Forum, a group of a dozen of the leading independent, locally owned clothing stores around the nation of which we have been a member for over 14 years. We support one another with fresh ideas and blunt honesty, each season we collaborate on this magazine, and we sometimes pool resources as a buying group. We're a community of people looking out for each other, and we've "got each others' backs." During this downturn, we know you've had our backs, too. Your visits, referrals, and purchases mean so much. Thank you. The phrase "I've got your back" originates from battle, and the need for protection from behind while looking ahead. While we all look ahead, let's not forget that in a community, we all need to have each others' backs. We look forward to seeing you at Kilgore Trout this season.
Fashion Il lust a A sketchbook for the new season at Kilgore Trout. This season, we commissioned Deanna Gradkowski, a recent graduate of the Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman School of Fashion Design and Merchandising at Kent State University, to interpret the new collection. Last year, the Pittsburgh native enjoyed a semester abroad in Florence — working and studying at Kent’s campus there and having the experience of a lifetime. Deanna says, “Italy has given me a more sophisticated outlook on the fashion world. Not only did Europe open my eyes to a different world of fashion, but it helped me mature as an individual.” Deanna received the prestigious Stanley Heller NAMSB Foundation Award for Excellence in Menswear Design, and the Critic’s Award for her senior portfolio fashion show. Her current goal is to land a position as an assistant menswear designer with an established fashion house. Then, with her enthusiasm toward fashion and diligent work ethic, she’ll be well on her way to achieving her dream of becoming a head designer. This continues our long association with KSU, including visits by fashion students, internships, and the Kilgore Trout President’s Scholarship in Fashion Merchandising.
Every guy needs driving gloves!
Gorgeous necklaces by Iosselliani, handcrafted in Italy!
Art Direction-Design : Christopher Hixson Fashion Il lustration : Deanna Gradkowski
ted
Extra-long sleeves, rolled for a hint of contrast.
Szen Reversible cashmere sweater with raw seams. Plaid on one side, but turned inside out
White+ Warren
it’s gorgeous gray with the faintest plaid showing through. Cute!
Her simple tee from White+Warren is a wardrobe must.
Facing Page:
J Brand
Diesel, Hiltl, Etro John Varvatos
J Brand has a label and fit
Diesel Black Gold hip length jacket of black coated cotton and nylon
mid-rise stovepipe.
fabric worn over a Varvatos Star USA cotton checked shirt and Etro silk tie. The trousers are cotton flannel from Hiltl. Wool scarf and driving gloves are our own by Kilgore Trout.
for every woman. Classic fit Burgundy, curvy fit Blue Label, and indulgent Black Label. This one’s a cigarette leg, slim fit,
new traditions... Gimo’s The classic flight jacket reinterpreted by the Italian artisan leathercrafters at Gimo’s. The skin has a buttersoft, vintage feel with a contrast shearling collar and lightweight wool plaid lining.
Szen Washed100% Merino wool reversible sweater is perfect with or without a shirt beneath.
Masons A modern fit corded cotton plaid trouser that’ll put you at ease with autumn comfort.
How about these Salvatore Ferragamo taupe suede Venetian loafers with contrast whip stitch and chunky rubber sole!?
Serfontaine premium denim now has XFIT — a revolutionary lycra featuring 360o flexibility.
Calvaresi Technical outerwear can still be soft and feminine. This exquisitely quilted down jacket with integral zipper vest from Calvaresi offers proof.
Sand A new modern collection from Sand, artfully blending old world elements with modern twists. The traditional herringbone jacket has purple elbow patches and a contemporary fit. The washed lambswool argyle sweater complements the satin cotton striped shirt — all by Sand.
David Lerner leggings are very hot for fall!
Masons These washed corded trousers exhibit Masons’ philosophy of ‘traces of the past with the signs of the times.’ Their special fabrication and wash processes create the comfort that can only come from time.
Catherine Malandrino Catherine Malandrino’s blue satin trenchcoat is a must have as the season starts to chill. It’s the perfect weight for cool autumn nights on the town.
This look pairs great with Donald J. Pliner’s CARSON model perforated wingtip boot with distressed sport suede.
lush color tones... Swiss Chriss Tonal plaid quilted jacket, with the unique effect created by an overlay of a technical organza fabric that gives these jackets a deep rich color tone. The turtleneck is Merino wool rib from Andrea Fenzi.
Dena Furs Quilted day or evening jacket with rabbit collar. Ooh la lah!
Seal Kay typically has the most deluxe washes of all the denim we see and this stitched detail version is no exception.
Wear it with John Varvatos shearling lined water resistant work boots.
Denim is all about looking and feeling good. Consider it denim therapy.
Angelo Nardel l i Tutto Angelo Nardelli! Each piece is amazing on its own, and together capture the essence of the direction from Italy. The jacket is cashmere and wool in their superleggere (softly constructed) fit. The crewneck sweater with lavender dots is also cashmere and wool, with the lavender oxford button down shirt.
You gotta check out the lining of this Etro jacket!
127 steps go into making these Gravati shoes. Light brown suede inspired English Brogue with rubber sole for Cleveland winters. Cool and practical!
The trousers are a soft moleskin cotton in a creamy beige featuring another highlight for fall — white, cream, beige, soft neutral bottoms providing the fashion statement for the gentleman.
Etro Soon to become your favorite, the jewel toned chenille plaid jacket is paired with a satin print shirt. The classic charcoal flannel trouser is from Incotex.
Finish it off with a great hat, pocket handkerchief, the right cufflinks and belt. In other words, don’t forget the accessories make the man!
Great accessories and bags are arriving, along with terrific clutches from Laura Merkin.
Catherine Malandrino
You already have the wristwatch.
Sexy, silk-lined cocktail dress with beautifully detailed patchwork by the always sophisticated Catherine Malandrino — one of France’s finest exports!
Ermenegildo Zegna Prince-of-Wales plaid suit in the new ‘Milano’ fit, featuring a softer shoulder and higher armhole to achieve a more modern silhouette. Silk knit tie by Roda of Italy and cotton spread collar shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna.
to be continued... See more — in store. It’s an illustrious season at Kilgore Trout. We look forward to your visit!
Don’t forget to keep those shoes polished, and stored with shoe trees, so they’ll stay in great shape.
www.AlexFineHomes.com an award-winning design/build company
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fashion alerts
KILGORETROUT.COM Are you getting all the latest news as it's happening?
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What a difference a day makes — especially when that super 120s suit you had your eye on gets marked down and you don't know it.’’
Too bad the other guy with your size signed up for Kilgore Trout Fashion Alerts and showed up for the sale before you. He got the deal, while all you got was that pain in the pit of your stomach. Sound familiar? Did you know you can have all the latest news on happenings at Kilgore Trout sent directly to your e-mail account or smartphone? You'll be in control of the news — no more Mr. Postman deciding when you find out about our hot sales, the intriguing trunk shows, or the chance to meet, mingle and nosh at one of our store events. We promise to respect your time and privacy: We keep the alerts brief, smartphone friendly, and only frequent enough to keep you up-to-date. Our goal is to inform, not annoy.
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Upcoming Trunk Shows As we go to press, we're putting together an exciting season of trunk shows for men and women. Visit our website for the complete list. Online Issue of Forum If you want to share your Forum with a friend or refer to it when you're on the go, it's all available under the 'About' tab on our site. Designer Links The majority of our designers are listed on our site, most with links to their own websites where you can stay abreast of the latest collections. E-mail your Sales Consultant Have a question or need to get in touch? E-mail anytime, 24/7.
‘‘
Other than on your wedding day, there's never a good reason to have cold feet.’’
MADE IN SUEDE By JB Dunn From a John Varvatos brown distressed work boot to a Gravati English-inspired Brogue, suede is where it’s at in footwear for fall and winter 2009—and not just your standard black suede and brown suede. The designers have delved deeply into the autumn color palette with beautiful shades of taupe and grey. To top it off they washed them, distressed them and in general turned the humble shoe into an object of desire. Though you may really want to place them on the mantle, you’re best advised to put them on your feet because, in most cases, they’ve been made waterproof, or at least resistant, and are extremely soft and comfortable. With the depths of clothing fabrications and myriad colors, all of our footwear designers have really stepped up to the plate and created absolutely beautiful, yet practical, shoes that will pair wonderfully with everything from jeans to a new suit this coming season. So don’t just look at them, take your favorite pair out for a test ride... Regardless of the forecast, you’ll be in style: warm, dry and comfortable. You’ll have it made in suede this fall.
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ASKFORUM Q:
I’m told I dress well but everything I own is fairly basic. How can I add some personality to my very conservative wardrobe? Simple: with great accessories! It’s a concept that European men understand better than we do: the pocket square, the watch, the cufflinks, the scarf and the sunglasses all speak volumes about your sense of style. Come into the store and we’ll show you the latest accessories for fall ’09, many of them more affordable than you’d guess. What’s more, a great accessory can sometimes become your personal trademark. Our friend Terry wears RayBan Wayfarers, day and night; Dany goes nowhere without his red cashmere muffler; Allyn wears only vintage watches, to which he adds a bright colored leather strap; Bill is rarely spotted without his silver dog tag necklace engraved with his girlfriend’s initials. Once you find an item or two that truly express your personality, your basic wardrobe becomes anything but.
IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
Q:
Why should I invest in made-to-measure clothing when my suit size is readily available?
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It’s a misconception that made-to-measure suits are just for guys with fit problems. The beauty of made-to-measure is not just perfect fit (everyone’s body is somewhat asymmetrical and MTM is the best way to provide balance), but also the ability to custom design the details. Maybe you want working buttonholes on the jacket sleeves, a center vent instead of side vents, notch lapels, exclusive fabric, or a super-slim fit. Whatever your predilection, made-to-measure allows you to have the suit of your dreams. And as we all know, nothing else gives the emotional lift of wearing a fabulous suit!
Aside from the fact that it’s unlikely to last more than a season or two (the glue that affixes the chest piece creates ripples when dry-cleaned), a cheap suit tends to reflect negatively upon the wearer. While not everyone can detect nuances, even an untrained eye is turned off to unnatural shoulder placement, shoddy construction, and cheap fabrics (shiny, stiff, without drape). In contrast, a good suit will get you through any door, is surprisingly comfortable, and will make you feel terrific, powerful and sexy. This is not just marketing propaganda: come into the store and try one on for yourself, just to feel the difference. It’s an investment that’s immediately amortized in more ways than we can list here.
Q:
I’m not a skinny guy; can I wear the new slim-cut suits? Absolutely. If properly fitted, a slim suit will make you look taller, thinner and sexier. It’s not about tight but rather about proportion: a narrower shoulder, trimmer lapels, a narrower trouser leg, higher button stance—all of this gives the illusion of thin. What’s more, our expert tailors will ensure that nothing is tight or uncomfortable. Come into the store and be transformed!
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IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
ask forum
Q:
There’s so much cheap clothing out there these days; why shouldn’t I buy a $300 suit if it looks decent?
Q:
What’s today’s proper length for men’s coats?
The short answer: anywhere from a few inches above the knee to mid-thigh. Topcoats and trench coats have evolved in recent seasons and these shorter lengths are not just more modern, but also more practical. That said, if you’re emotionally attached to your knee-length or below-the-knee cashmere topcoat, of course you can wear it! Or you can bring it in to our professional tailors and they’ll advise on whether it’s alterable.
IMAGE COURTESY OF ISAIA
clothing
IT’S IN THE DETAILS
How to inspect a suit before you buy. By Jillian Sprague “Quality in a suit has a lot to do with the parts that don’t show,” says John Spillyards, a clothing expert who’s been helping well-dressed men find stellar suits for more than 20 years. Before you invest in a new suit, take a closer look to guarantee your garment is a worthy one. Fabric. A well-made suit feels good to the touch and will be opaque when held up to the light. Tightly woven fibers give a garment strength and resilience, whereas a lesser suit may appear gauze-like, a sign that it will fall apart sooner. Crumple the sleeve and then release it—a quality fabric won’t easily hold wrinkles. Stitching. The best suits are stitched by hand and worth the slightly higher price tag. Skilled tailors spend upwards of 20 hours putting in over 3,000 hand stitches, molding every aspect of the garment into perfect shape to allow for movement and contouring to the
body. Hand stitching also strengthens seams considerably more than machine stitching. Buttonholes. A buttonhole made by machine is rigid and strains when you push the button through. When hand-sewn, it’s soft and flexible, molding around the button instead of tugging at it. Working buttons on suit jacket sleeves are a plus, allowing your cuff more room to move when you’re on the go. Lining. Fine suits are lined with bemberg or silk instead of polyester. There’s a common misconception that half-lined suits are low-quality, but it’s just the opposite: a full lining can hide shoddy tailoring, while the exposure of a half lining ensures that seams are nicely finished. Canvassing. Interior layers of canvas give a suit jacket its shape; the more used, the more constructed your jacket. Better suits have a basted canvas chest piece stitched into
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place; in a cheap suit the canvas is basically hot glued in, resulting in ripples after only a few cleanings. Fit. There’s a return to sartorial tailoring, so if you’re used to the baggier cuts of years past, it might take time to adjust to the new trimmer fit. But since the seams in highquality suits are put in by hand, your garment will quickly mold to your body. The more you wear it, the more comfortable it will become. Service. When you’re considering a major purchase, a good sales associate will take time to explain these aspects of a suit’s construction and help you find the exact fit and style you’re looking for. If you choose to invest in a fine suit, you’ll wear it for years to come and feel like a million bucks each time you do. “High-end suiting is the most legitimate value in the clothing business,” concludes Spillyards.
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footwear
While shoe trends come and go, the basic components of fine shoe making never waffle.’’
ANATOMY OF A QUALITY SHOE By William Kissel
SHOE CARE TIPS:
• Nothing breaks down footwear faster than water in the leather. Use cedar shoe trees between wearings to absorb the moisture and retain the shoe’s shape. • Don’t wear the same shoes two days in a row; try to rotate them so the leather can breathe between wearings. • Use a good clear polish regularly and colored polish only when the finish has faded.
“Many people underestimate the effect that high quality shoes can have on your entire well-being,” explains Paul Grangaard, the president of American shoe maker Allen Edmonds. “Your feet are the foundation for your entire skeletal support structure.” While shoe trends come and go, the basic components of fine shoe making never waffle. Look first at the quality of the leather. You can tell a high quality shoe by how soft the leather feels, not how thin it looks. Thinner leathers tend to tear easier. Another good barometer is
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the interior lining. A well-made shoe will always have one made of leather to keep your feet comfortable and dry, as well as prevent the interior stitching from chafing your foot. Notice too how the leather is finished, even if the shoe appears to be a classic black. Solid colored shoes sometimes disguise flaws in the skin. “We do a leather called Lucido that has a color overlay, which means the finish goes on black, but as you burnish it there is rich color that shows underneath,” explains Cory Haberman of Cole Haan. Equally essential to first-class shoe making is the sole. The finest dress footwear is always produced with Goodyear-welted sole construction. This means an extra layer of material, known as the welt, is sewn between the upper and the sole, which is customarily made of leather. Because the welt is sewn, not glued, it can be easily taken apart and replaced when the soles develop holes. Many fine shoe makers will gladly resole your shoes for a nominal cost, greatly extending their life. If you factor that into the overall cost, a good pair of shoes can last for decades and ultimately prove to be the smarter investment.
luxury fibers
IT TAKES EACH GOAT FOUR YEARS TO PRODUCE ENOUGH CASHMERE FOR ONE SWEATER.
A GUIDE TO VALUE
Good quality cashmere is one of the most rare, most luxurious and most comfortable natural fibers in the world, its softness unsurpassed. Who would have thought that something so extravagant comes from the fine, fuzzy hair that keeps wild goats warm in the sub-zero temperatures of China, Mongolia and beyond? Style expert Carson Kressley once called cashmere “the flat-screen TV of yarns, the Super Bowl of sweaters.” More than just sweaters, cashmere can be found in a variety of items including suits, jackets and a wide range of accessories. But why is it special, and how do you know if you’re getting a good value? The name cashmere comes from Kashmir, the wild and mountainous area of India where the fiber was originally sourced. Today, fleece also comes from Australia, New Zealand, Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Turkey, but quality differs by region because many places lack the harsh environmental elements of high altitude and cold that allow the goats to grow an ultra-soft
Cashmere isn’t just for sweaters anymore: it can be found in a wide variety of clothing and accessories for men and women.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF LORO PIANA
What you need to know about cashmere. By Nicola Harrison
IMAGE COURTESY OF BRUNELLO CUCCINELLI
coat. In order to survive such extreme conditions, the goats have coarse outer hair, beneath which lies a much finer fiber that insulates these animals from the bitter cold. Only this soft, fine under hair is used in the production of cashmere. While human hair has a diameter of 75 microns, a cashmere fiber cannot be more than 19 microns, with many high-end manufacturers placing the limit at 16 microns. Because of these specifications, it takes each goat four years to produce enough cashmere for one sweater—that’s four miles of yarn! Gathering the fibers is a tedious, labor intensive procedure. After the goat is combed by hand during its shedding season in spring, the harvested fibers are sorted for color, length and fineness. They are then scoured or washed, de-haired (removing the coarser hairs), dyed and spun. Once they’re ready to be made into fabric, the fibers are handframed to a garment’s specifications. Not all cashmere is created equal. Differentiating factors include where the raw fiber originated, whether it was collected by hand or machine, how it was separated, processed or bleached, washed, dyed and spun. A lower quality, low-priced fiber is shorter and more likely to pill and lose its shape. Additionally, if it’s being made into a light colored garment, it must also be bleached, which can weaken the fibers further. Super fine cashmere yarn of the best possible quality can be made only from long fibers. The longer the fiber, the tighter the knit or the weave, which means less pilling and longer life for the garment. While thread count is important when it comes to buying sheets, yarn count or ply count has little to do
with the actual quality of cashmere. Ply is the number of individual strands or threads of hair twisted together to make one yarn. A threeply sweater, rather than being superior to a two-ply, is simply one strand thicker, not better. A higher ply just means more fibers in each yarn, yielding a weightier garment. Consider ply only when you are deciding between a winter sweater to keep you toasty and a layering piece to go under your sport coat. Thin cashmere is not lower quality than a thick winter garment. In fact, summer weight cashmere is often considered even higher in quality (and sometimes price) since it requires finer, more costly yarns and highly specialized expertise to manufacture.
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A quality garment will show very few loose fibers, have a consistent and tight knit with good seam construction, and be soft and sensuous to the touch. But beware of a garment that feels overly soft, almost slippery or buttery. This is due to over-processing of the fiber and could result in quick pilling, premature wear or loss of shape. And look at the tag: just because something says cashmere doesn’t mean it’s pure cashmere. If it isn’t clearly marked 100% on the label, then it probably isn’t. Some garments have only 10 percent cashmere and the rest could be wool. Don’t be afraid of blends (a silk and cashmere blend yields a fabulous touch); just know what you’re getting before you purchase.
INTO THE WOODS
COZY CABLE KNITS... LEAVES UNDERFOOT... CRISP BREEZES... BOLD ORANGES... A BLAZING BONFIRE...
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAL YEE PRODUCED BY SUSAN F.SIDOR
NEW NEUTRALS... PRINTS AND PLAIDS... COOL EVE LOGS ON THE FIRE... PURPLES AND PLUMS...
NINGS... A WARM EMBRACE... MOSS-COVERED ROCKS... R IBB E D CO R D U ROY.. . LIN GE RIN G SU NLI GHT. ..
SHADES OF GRAY... ZIPPED UP... INDIAN SUMMER... HARVEST... SHORTER DAYS... FAMILY AND FRIENDS...
SIGNS OF CHANGE... A CHILL IN THE AIR... NEW SOFT WOOL... SUPPLE LEATHERS... A FULL MOON...
ASSOCIATE PRODUCER: JOHN JONES; ASSISTANT: EILEEN DUFFY; SHOT ON LOCATION AT WINVIAN, LITCHFIELD HILLS, CT; HAIR AND MAKEUP: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: MELANIE SCHERIAU - WILHELMINA MODELS, MARCUS ANDERSON - FORD MEN NYC; JEWELRY BY ROBIN ROTENIER, BUDDHA TO BUDDHA
LONG WALKS... FALLING LEAVES... COZY CASHMERE... BUTTONED-UP COMFORT... LAYERS OF WARMTH...
fashion
ACCESSORIES MAKETHEMAN TRIPLE YOUR WARDROBE’S IMPACT WITH QUALITY ACCESSORIES.
Photography by MICHAEL TAMMARO for RourkeMGT.com Produced by Susan F. Sidor
1. classic
1 SUIT, 3 WAYS Change a suit’s personality with the right accessories. Totally transform the look with a classic tie & cufflinks, modern footwear & a highvoltage pocket square, or pull out all the stops with a trendy belt & cool eyewear.
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1 SPORTCOAT, 3 WAYS Change the look of your sportcoat for any occasion. Update with a great watch & messenger bag, an argyle sweater & 5-pocket cords, or wow â&#x20AC;&#x2122;em with sunglasses & a bold sport shirt.
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MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES; ASSISTANT: TARA FERRI; GROOMING: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: ISA RAHMAN- MAJOR MODELS, AARON LOEWEN- FORD FM2 SASCHA- DNA MODEL MANAGEMENT; WATCHES: MOVADO, EBEL, CONCORD; JEWELRY: BUDDHA TO BUDDHA, ROBIN ROTENIER; EYEWEAR: CUTLER AND GROSS, ROBERT MARC
fashion
DENIM, 3 WAYS Update the attitude ofyour favorite jeans and let them take you from casual to cool. Completely change the look with a cashmere cardigan & scarf, a slick hat & leather bag, or lay low in a hoodie & sneakers.
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travel
WOODLAND WHIMSY
Connecticut’s hidden gem is an escape for all seasons. By Jillian Sprague Tucked amid 113 acres of quiet forest lies Winvian, a collection of 18 charming cottages, each with a distinct design. Conceived by 15 architects and built from local materials, each has a king-size bed, steam shower and a living area with refrigerator and bar for extreme luxury and comfort. The cottages are all Connecticut-themed, but that’s where the similarities end. Whether you choose to spend the night in Treehouse (a playful cabin perched among branches) or Helicopter (made from the body of a Coast Guard chopper), Winvian will delight your senses. Before your visit, knowledgeable guest assistants will help you decide where to stay. Do you like to cuddle up in front of a crackling fire with a good book? Library is the cabin for you. Do you enjoy horseback riding and all things equestrian? Stable is a perfect fit. They’ll also set up activities you may want to partake in during your stay—from cooking lessons to hot air ballooning, fly-fishing to car racing. The staff of Winvian aims to please, and can accommodate almost any scenario. Reserve one cabin or the entire property; it’s an idyllic setting for a romantic weekend getaway, an intimate wedding or celebration, a corporate retreat or your next family reunion. Whatever the occasion, prepare for an experience unlike any other. For details and rates go to winvian.com.
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ESCAPE FROM REALITY Choose any of Winvian’s unique accommodations and get lost in fantasy land. Top: The Seth Bird House and The Smith Ell. Home to the Hadley Suite, private dining rooms, game room and more, it is freely accessible to all Winvian guests. Middle: The interior and exterior of Greenhouse, complete with two fireplaces and a glass ceiling—perfect for stargazing. Bottom: Treehouse and its unique and colorful living area.
agavedenim [for him]
agavenectar [for her]
food
A RECIPE FOR DESIGN
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Many of the world’s top fashion designers are strongly inspired by food.’’
During a recent trip to Italy, I found myself more passionate than ever about two great loves—food and fashion. (Wine, I must admit, is a close third.) The intense textures and brilliant colors of Italian food created a unique juxtaposition of fashion and flavor in my mind. Basil green. Pomodoro red. Eggplant purple. Funghi brown. Mozzarella white. Espresso black. Each subtle shade and hue reminded me of rich jewel-tones, warm earth-tones or stark black and white patterns that I typically associate with artisan-inspired fabrics and fashions. Every meal created a distinctive color palette on my plate. And when we visited friends in
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Abruzzi, there was a new ingredient. The furnishing, you might say. It was the added expression of love and pride in every dish presented. Each recipe, no matter how simple or complex, evoked a broad smile and a fond memory from years past. Was the wine going to my head? I don’t think so. After a few inquiries, I was relieved to discover that many of the world’s top fashion designers are strongly inspired by food. Whether it was a favorite dish or one simple ingredient, the nostalgic stories and happy anecdotes came forth with abundance. Read on for tasty tales and delicious recipes from some of our favorite designers. Buon appetito!
IMAGES BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE
Prepare a fashionable feast to please any palate. By Cally Jamis Vennare
ANNA ZEGNA | Risotto al tartufo d’Alba Ermenegildo Zegna Ingredients: My favorite recipe is Risotto al tartufo d’Alba. I love this dish not only for the refined taste, but also because it reminds me of many happy and joyful moments spent with friends and family. Truffles from Piemonte, the region my family comes from and where my grandfather, Ermenegildo Zegna, founded the Ermenegildo Zegna Group almost 100 years ago, are known to be the best in the world. As they say, “Piedmont comes into its own in fall, the time of truffles.” Somehow, the colors of the Risotto al tartufo also remind me of my family’s tradition. The white of the rice can be associated with the whitest and purest cashmere that has characterized Zegna for all these years, and the color of the truffle is the brown of the ground where Oasi Zegna has extended. A good risotto depends on the quality of the water, which is also fundamental for fabrics. In fact, the water in which our textiles are washed and dyed strongly influences the overall quality and softness. The area of Trivero, in the Biellesi Alps, where the Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna stands, is renowned for the soft and crystal water that perfectly meets the needs of this industry and of cooking! The water that passes through our wool mill is clean enough even to drink, in line with my grandfather’s vision and drive to protect the environment. Accompany this with a red wine like Nebbiolo or Dolcetto, both from Piedmont and the favorites of my oldest brother, Gildo. Prep Time: 20 minutes Cook Time: 20 minutes
2 ½ cups short grained rice, for example Carnaroli or Arborio ½ cup unsalted butter 1 tablespoon very finely minced onion ½ cup dry white wine 4 cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano 1 quart simmering beef broth 6 ounces fresh white truffles, brushed clean
Preparation: 1. Sauté the onion in half the butter until it begins to turn golden. Then add the wine and cook over low heat until the onion is falling apart and the wine has evaporated. 2. Add the rice, mix well, and then begin adding broth, one ladle at a time, stirring gently all the while. 3. When the rice has almost reached the “al dente” stage, remove the pot from the fire and stir in the remaining butter and the Parmigiano Reggiano, then slice half the truffles into it using a truffle slicer. 4. Heat the risotto through, transfer it to a serving bowl, and slice the remaining truffles over it.
ROBERT STOCK | Robert Graham When I was young, my mother and grandmother would make Veal Parmigiana and spaghetti on a hero. As children, we called it “Pisghetti.” That is still my favorite dish to this day, and I salivate just thinking about my mother and grandmother cracking the eggs, adding the bread crumbs, dipping the veal and adding fresh mozzarella cheese on top to create this wonderful smell of cutlets frying in a covered pan. Mmm, I can taste it now. Over the years, I have done a lot of design work in Italy, which has
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always brought me back to this fond childhood memory. Because of that, I try to go back to Italy as often as possible (at least 4 times a year). When I’m there I always have flashbacks of my mother in the kitchen making this amazing dish. Whether I’m on vacation or designing fabrics in Italy, I am always searching for that wonderful Veal Parmigiana.
Robert Stock’s Pisghetti Ingredients:
1 cup olive oil for frying 2 veal cutlets sliced thin and pounded flat dry bread crumbs 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup prepared tomato sauce grated parmesan cheese 2 slices mozzarella cheese 1 hero bun spaghetti
Preparation: 1. In a large skillet, heat oil slowly until just bubbly. 2. Dip each cutlet into egg, then into bread crumbs to coat generously. 3. Slowly place cutlets into hot oil and fry on both sides until golden brown. 4. Remove cutlets and lay on paper towels to drain. 5. Preheat oven to 350° F. 6. Arrange cutlets in a baking dish and spoon tomato sauce on top to cover. Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese and top with mozzarella. 7. Bake for 15 minutes or until cheese is melted. 8. Boil water and add spaghetti noodles to pot until cooked. 9. Place veal cutlets on hero bun. Add spaghetti and tomato sauce on top. Close up the bun and enjoy!
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speed
TESLA: THE REAL DEAL BEHIND THE WHEEL This electric-powered stunner was built to thrill. By David A. Rose
Most people think of electricity as a relatively new discovery. In fact, knowledge of electricity dates back to ancient Greece in 600 B.C., when scientist Thales of Miletus performed the first known experiments with static electricity. But the most well-known and respected contribution to electric power was made by Nikola Tesla. In addition to inventing the radio (initially credited to Guglielmo Marconi) and owning 1,200 other U.S. patents, Tesla formed the basis of modern alternating current (AC). In 1931, Tesla converted a Pierce Arrow automobile to electric power and test drove it for a week. Afterward he removed the power source and it was never seen again. Teslaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reasons for not developing or marketing this amazing engine are unknown. But more than 75 years later, a group of Silicon Valley techies again created a car powered
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At right: The Roadster’s state of the art controls and fueling portal.
solely by electricity and named it after the man who mysteriously modified the Pierce Arrow all those years ago: the Tesla Roadster. Presently there are just over 300 on the road. The Tesla Roadster was designed with help from Lotus Cars of England and production began in March of 2008. With an engine from Taiwan, a chassis from Norway, carbon fiber body panels from France and brake parts from Germany, this is literally a world-class car. Powered by a lithium battery pack, the Tesla achieves 0–60 MPH in 3.9 seconds and has a range of 244 miles. Unlike gasoline engines that have over a hundred moving parts, the Tesla’s engine has just a rotor, limiting the occurrence of parts breaking or wearing down. Its body panels are made of carbon fiber composite (similar to Formula 1 racing cars), making it not only stronger, but lighter-weight than most cars. Facts and statistics are interesting, but the real deal is behind the wheel. I knew I’d be impressed when I finally had the opportunity to drive one, but this car exceeded my wildest expectations. When I met Tesla sales manager Joe Powers at the Classic Car Club, the Tesla I would drive was plugged into a wall outlet to top off its battery charge. When it was time to start the car, I turned the key and…nothing. Or so I thought. In reality, the car was running, yet there was no sound. I put it into
Classy Combo In general, exotic cars are driven by those with discerning taste. That said, it’s no surprise that one of the world’s top exotic car makers would team up with a leading fashion jeans company to promote its latest product. It makes even more sense since both companies are California-based. Agave is a fashion apparel company with a definite point of view. Jeff Shafer, founder and designer of Agave, shares Tesla’s ideals—both companies use advanced technology to create an environmentally friendly product with quality standards above and beyond the norm. As a textile-driven designer, Shafer has developed fabrics that perform at the highest level, creating jeans worn by numerous Hollywood celebrities and international music stars. What’s more, as Tesla promotes its new cars nationally, all of their representatives will be wearing Agave jeans and tops, a classy way to market a very classy car. 45 FORUM
drive, one of only three positions on the shifter (forward, neutral and reverse). I was aware of the power this car has, so I took it easy leaving the club and proceeded up Hudson Street, making my way to the West Side Highway. As I drove along the Hudson River, I found an open space in the traffic, gave it a bit of throttle, and whoosh! I was flying! Amused, I glanced at other drivers as they stared at this beautiful car. People all around me took notice, and in my mirror I spotted those behind me trying to decipher the make of the car. As I came up on the George Washington Bridge, I headed for the upper level. I knew it was the best approach to the Palisades Parkway, the only open road around with enough curves to get a sense of the car’s handling ability. The road also has more than its share of police patrols, so I was careful to keep my speed down…well, at least for a while. The vehicle handled like a dream: it is definitely an enthusiast’s car, with all the excitement one could want. As an amateur race car driver, I found that the Tesla Roadster outperformed many cars meant for the race track as well as the most exotic of sports cars. The world we live in is an everchanging one. In 1900, before the introduction of Henry Ford’s Model T, half of the 8,000 automobiles registered in America were powered by electric motors. It is not inconceivable that electricity may reclaim dominance as the most desirable way to power our vehicles. If ever a car could change how we feel about the planet and our environment, the Tesla Roadster is it. It’s sheer excitement without the guilt.
CHALLENGING THE PERCEPTION OF WHAT A CROSSOVER IS 2010 Audi Q5 Crossover Combining the dynamism of a sports sedan with highly variable interior and versatile options for leisure-time and family use. A strong and efficient 3.2 FSI engine, quattro all wheel drive and agile running gear have been brought together to create a superior technology package for both on and off road driving. This sporty crossover is dynamic, multifunctional and comfortable. Stop in for a guest drive or visit our website at www.audiwilloughby.com
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art
MODERN TIMES Almost everything we think of as modern—from architecture to furniture to painting—came out of the Bauhaus design movement, founded in Germany in 1919. When the Nazis closed the school in 1933, Bauhaus disciples fled and spread their concepts of art and architecture worldwide, notably to Chicago, Boston and Israel, where Tel Aviv’s “White City” of Bauhausstyle buildings has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site. This year marks the 90th anniversary of the Bauhaus school and its celebrated masters: architects Walter Gropius and Mies van der Rohe; painters Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky; designer Marcel
Breuer and other artistic talents including László Moholy-Nagy, Josef Albers and Lyonel Feininger. Even if the Bauhaus style is not your taste, you’ve got to marvel at a group of avant-garde artists who fundamentally changed the aesthetics of architecture and design.
Beginnings The winds of artistic and social change had been blowing through Western Europe since the late 1800s, but were fueled by disillusionment after the devastation of World War I. In a rebellion against politically repressive regimes and authoritarian views of what constituted “art,”
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avant-garde movements with similar ideals began to emerge throughout Europe—the Vienna Secession in Austria, De Stijl in Holland, Futurism in Italy and the Bauhaus in Germany. These movements rejected prior bourgeois notions of beauty in painting, architecture and furnishings. They focused on creating objects and buildings in unembellished forms and believed that elegantly designed items could be produced using industrial techniques and materials such as steel, concrete, chrome and glass. The artists also wanted their work to be socially responsible, making attractive dwellings and furniture affordable for the working class.
IMAGES COURTESY OF MOMA
Lasting influences of the Bauhaus design movement. By Jacquelin Carnegie
Bauhaus 101 Adhering to the dictums “Form follows Function” and “Less is More,” the Bauhaus (“building school”) curriculum emphasized interdisciplinary learning and industrial production. The Bauhaus teachers, referred to as “masters,” were some of the most talented artists of their time. Their motto, “Art & Technology—a New Unity!” required students to apply industrial aesthetics to the design of interior furnishings, household items and residential spaces.
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Walter Gropius was appointed chairman of the Harvard School of Architecture. (Both Philip Johnson and I.M. Pei were his students.) Marcel Breuer joined Gropius as a Harvard professor. In Chicago, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe headed the department of architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology and László MoholyNagy founded the New Bauhaus (the Institute of Design). Josef Albers became chair of the department of design at Yale University. Hence, the radical Bauhaus ideas became part of the curriculum at mainstream American institutions and were passed on to the next generation of artists and architects.
These movements rejected prior bourgeois notions Bauhaus Über Alis Ninety years have passed since the of beauty in art Nazi regime dismissed the Bauhaus and shut down the school. and architecture.” The Bauhaus Legacy Previous Page: Brandt’s metal teapot and Breuer’s Wassily chair. This Page: The Bauhaus school in Dessau, Germany, and its students.
Study began with a mandatory preliminary course (Vorkurs) providing an introduction to the Bauhaus ideas and design fundamentals, followed by a number of workshops such as architecture, carpentry, metalwork, stained glass, weaving and typography. As the school changed directors— Walter Gropius (1919-1928), Hannes Meyer (1928-1930), Mies van der Rohe (1930-1933)—and locations (Weimar, Dessau, Berlin), the basic principles remained. At first considered revolutionary, then repudiated by the Nazis, today nearly every art curriculum in the world includes foundation courses based on the Bauhaus model.
The Bauhaus had a profound influence on developments in art, architecture, graphic design, interior design and industrial design. The products created in the Bauhaus workshops made the idea of functional design acceptable. Pieces produced by Bauhaus masters have become iconic: Breuer’s Wassily chair and Mies van der Rohe’s Barcelona chair, Wagenfeld’s WG 24 table lamp, and Brandt’s metal teapots and pendant lamps. Companies still producing Bauhaus designs include Rosenthal (Gropius’ TAC chinaware), Jenaer Glas (Wilhelm Wagenfeld glassware) and Tecnolumen (Marianne Brandt and Wagenfeld lamps). After the Nazis closed the school,
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Design and architecture are still taught at the Bauhaus University of Weimar in the original school building. The Bauhaus Dessau Foundation, a research center for experimental design, is in the Gropius-designed building. These, along with the remaining “masters’ houses,” are all UNESCO World Heritage sites and can be visited, as can the Bauhaus buildings in Tel Aviv. Throughout 2009, there will be numerous Bauhaus-related exhibitions and symposiums. This fall, the Museum of Modern Art in New York will present Bauhaus 1919–1933: Workshops for Modernity, the first comprehensive retrospective of the Bauhaus at MoMA since 1938. But all you have to do is look out the window at sleek skyscrapers or at your stereo components, desk lamps and kitchen utensils to see that Bauhaus concepts still prevail.
chef style
MADE TO ORDER
A uniform transformed from ho-hum to yum. By Jillian Sprague
‘‘
I’m an artist, but I paint with food instead of acrylics. I’m always looking for new colors, flavors and techniques.”
“I remember the day I bought my first designer jacket. I’d never had a vice other than cooking, but now I have two more: traveling and shopping,” says Scott Boswell, executive chef and owner of Stella, the New Orleans hot spot serving up progressive global cuisine. Once a sloppy dresser, Boswell learned the hard way that appearance matters—even in the kitchen. “I actually lost a job in Boston because it was a very style-oriented place, and they just didn’t feel I was savvy enough. It opened my eyes to the fact that I needed to polish my look.” Last year, Boswell was introduced to Brioni master tailor Angelo Petrucci, and the two decided to collaborate on a one-of-a-kind chef’s uniform that’s anything but bland. From cutting the pattern to stitching the trim, everything was made by hand. The twist cotton jacket has
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a true French cuff instead of the standard large rolled cuff. Interchangeable collar linings allow Boswell to switch between navy and white, and buttonholes were meticulously hand-stitched for maximum flexibility. The trousers are super 180s high twist wool from a bolt of fabric in Brioni’s private stock (previously used to make clothing for a sultan in the Middle East). The first time he walked out to a table in his custom outfit, Boswell’s customers couldn’t stop touching it. (Fortunately, their hands were clean!) As a chef and a businessman, Boswell’s clothing needs fluctuate. “My wife is my stylist: I just tell her how I want to look and she puts together the most magical ensembles I’ve ever seen. Of course, it helps to have a great wardrobe from which to choose.”
Surrounded by his management group, Boswell models his custom Brioni chef outfit in the heart of Jackson Square, New Orleans.
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REGRETS ONLY
When a bargain is not a bargain. By William Kissel
With the economy as tough as it is these days, I’ve been questioning the amount of money I spend on clothes. (Don’t ask…) Newly tempted to get frugal, I must admit that I’ve recently succumbed to shopping at discount stores and even sales at major department stores. I mean, who doesn’t love a great deal? But like those pesky credit card statements that keep coming in the mail, you don’t know what you’re getting into until you examine the fine print. Most recently, at an off-price store, I found a terrific-looking pair of linen cargo shorts from an unknown designer that had been seriously marked down. I had to dig through the muck—leftovers from bygone seasons—to find them. But when I did, I could hardly believe my eyes: the original $225 price tag was marked
down to a mere $36, no doubt less than the store actually paid for them. Ordinarily I would think I got a terrific bargain. But when the buttons starting falling off the first time I wore them, I began to wonder if I’d found such a treasure after all. (Don’t even ask what happened after they were laundered.) On another occasion, I got so caught up in the excitement of the sale that I ended up buying things—a linen sweater one size too large, a pair of jeans one size too small—that I didn’t really want and would subsequently never wear. In the end, the thrill I got from scavenger shopping turned to disappointment when a closet full of must-haves became must-get-rid-ofs shortly after purchase.
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Don’t get me wrong—I still respond to a great deal and feel fortunate when I get one. A bargain is great if the item in question is well-designed, well-made and backed by a reputable retailer. But as a fashion authority by trade, my appearance is everything. So I’m learning to be a less impulsive and smarter shopper, to do my homework on my favorite makers and buy only with the certainty that I’m getting the best. For in the end, it’s the beautiful designer clothing that I pull out of my closet most often, wear with the most confidence, and that ultimately becomes my signature, a true reflection of my better self. Recession or otherwise, some investments are worth the price.
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