Spring Essentials

from Kilgore Trout Magazine S/S 2015

Wheels: A Driver’s Dream

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA: LUXURY MEETS TECHNOLOGY

Already the world’s preeminent maker of luxury menswear, Zegna knows a thing or two about innovation and evolution. For spring/summer 2015, check out their luxurious high-tech fabrics, exclusive patterns, rich new color palette (teal, mauve, shades of blue mixed with light gray, forest green, indigo and camel) and blending of modern design with old-world craftsmanship.

Among the many must-haves in store for the season: lots of versatile lightweight outerwear. Styles include sophisticated safari jackets, city coats and blazers; fabrics feature Zegna’s exclusive Trofeo cloth bonded with a breathable membrane (40 percent lighter than previous versions), making these jackets trans-seasonal, water-resistant and very contemporary.

If you haven’t bought a warm weather suit lately, now’s the time! Zegna’s summer suits and trousers are made from virtually weightless fabrics including soft, naturally elastic, high-performance wool (15.5 microns) and Trofeo mohair (both surprisingly cool). Seersucker and micro-patterns add a dimension that’s elegant, refined and individually expressive. Most important: Zegna’s soft unlined sportcoats in somewhat shorter lengths will update your image, whether you’re dressing up or dressing down.

The finishing summer touches: a silk/cotton tie, polished leather shoes with inverted seams (or sneakers with contrast details if you’re feeling sporty) and the quintessential soft leather bag.

SAMUELSOHN: DESIGN FOR LIFE

Three years ago, Samuelsohn was a hidden gem. Based in Montreal, the company founded by master tailor Lesser Samuelsohn in 1923 was still making remarkable full-canvas garments the old-fashioned way, but it wasn't well known outside its league of loyal customers. That's changing.

President and designer Arnold Brant Silverstone has managed to double the 90-year-old company without compromising its quality. More than eight hours of work goes into a Samuelsohn suit—they are all full canvas with one-piece collars and hand-sewn armholes. Today there are three collections: Performance, which features innovative waterproof and wrinkle-free wools; Collection, the classic full-canvas line that made Samulesohn's name; and Soft, a lighter collection of full-canvas jackets and suiting for evenings and weekends.

“Our Performance line uses a Loro Piana fabric called Extreme that’s exclusive to us,” says Silverstone. “It’s the first Loro Piana fabric with natural stretch and also waterproofing. It’s a beautiful super 120s and 130s wool from Italy that looks rich, but also performs.”

Samuelsohn's made-to-measure program is exceptional, both for its quick delivery and the tailors' abilities to make just about anything. “I've never seen a factory that can do what they do,” Silverstone marvels.

“We’re a North American company,” he adds proudly. “We understand our customer and we live his lifestyle—we understand the fit and the fabrics and we're designing just for him.”

ask

Slim down your neckwear for a more modern look.

Q: I’m so confused about tie widths: how wide should they be for 2015?

It is a bit confusing since there are various widths that are now acceptable, depending on the width of your jacket lapel and the type of shirt collar. One thing is certain, however: acceptable widths have been narrowing for the past several years. We like 8.5 cm (3.35 inches) as a good go-to width for most of today’s suits and sportcoats (the hipster look is decidedly narrower); just a few seasons back it was 9.5 cm (3.75 inches). Visit us for some new neckwear that will keep you up to date!

Q: I noticed lots of young guys walking around without socks last summer. Aside from the hygiene aspect, is this no-sock look sartorially acceptable? (Won’t guys ruin their shoes, not to mention their feet?)

It’s definitely a fashion look among trendsetters, so much so, in fact, that we now sell no-show socks that hit below the ankle and give a sockless appearance while protecting both your shoes and your feet. If you’re going for this trendy look, we suggest buying some no-show socks.

That said, we prefer the look of a classic or whimsical sock with both dress and casual shoes (and sport socks with athletic shoes). Especially in 2015 when there are so many fashionforward options in color and pattern, why not make a sock statement? Let your hosiery reflect your personality!

SPRING 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Q: My staple clothing item for spring is a navy blazer: what more do I need?

You’ve got the right idea! A navy blazer can take you virtually anywhere: throw it over a polo shirt for lunch at the golf club or over a dress shirt for a nice dinner out.

What more do you need? How about a brighter shade of blue for an upbeat summer alternative, and/or a lightweight cashmere blazer (once again, go blue) for that extra touch of softness and style? While three blue blazers might seem excessive, trust us: you’ll get so many compliments, you just might come back for more.

Q: I have a formal wedding coming up this summer: do I need a new tux or can I wear what’s in my closet?

If you haven’t purchased a tux in a few years, you definitely need a new one. Today’s models are slimmer, lighter weight and more comfortable than the ones you own and the fabrics are more beautiful. Lapel options are numerous (peak, shawl, traditional) so try on a few to see which is most flattering. Another way to modernize: try navy instead of black.

IMAGE BY GMD THREE STUDIOS; TIE BY ETON

Wavy and washed-out, this print recalls blue skies and ocean breezes.