Icons: Young Lion

IN LIVING COLOR

ITALIAN DESIGNERS ARE USING COLORS AND FABRICS IN UNEXPECTED WAYS

When there is any sort of disturbance in an Italian city, or merely an unexpected curve in the road, the locals are fond of calling such incidents "a manifestation.” So one might say there is a –“manifestation” happening in menswear this fall and especially next spring. Top Italian clothing brands such as Brunello Cucinelli, Isaia, Kiton, Belvest, and Brioni are taking such familiar warm weather ideas as bright color, nautical styling and even luxury leisurewear and adding their own unexpected twists.

Judging by the "Living Color" theme at the latest round of Italian menswear shows, color will be at the forefront for the next several months, including on skinny, short-cropped trousers, richly-hued belts, and shirts with collars large enough to land a jetliner. Moreover, Pantone shades of apple green, chamomile yellow or rose will be found as subtle accents on shirts, colorblocked pullovers, or casual slacks, all designed to be worn with neutral-hued jackets, knitwear and vests in a way most American men will easily embrace.

Likewise, boldly-striped knitwear, boat-style (and even banded) collared shirts, quilted vests, and lightweight outerwear made of technical fabrics allow one to live the lifestyle of a seaman without ever having to leave the docks. And such everyday staples as the familiar hooded sweatshirt, drawstring trouser or pull-on short are often rendered in opulent fabrics like cashmere, silk and micro-wool blends. They’re so extremely luxurious that it’s hard to imagine wearing them for any sport, unless it involves a remote control.

fall 2015