Kilgore Trout Magazine S/S 2012 by Kilgore Trout

FORUM˜SPRING 2012 UNHURRIED AND UNCOMMON SINCE 1977 KILGORETROUT.COM

THE JACKET AN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH

FASHION AND FANTASY

DESERT DREAMS

2CUUKQP HQT 5KNM

welcome

GROWING UP RETAIL BY KATIE NAYMON

The shopkeeper’s daughter tells all.

PHOTO: MOLLY NOOK

ROM A VERY YOUNG AGE, I realized

Katie Naymon is a freshman at Johns Hopkins University studying writing and political science. And yes, she gets dressed up for class everyday!

my dad wasn’t like other dads. My friends’ dads were doctors and lawyers who wore black suits on weekdays and sweats on weekends. They didn’t get bimonthly manicures. They didn’t have two closets. And they certainly didn’t own more shoes than their wives. My dad does all of these things—and the examples of what I’ve lived with for the past 19 years are abundant. One Easter when I was about 10 years old, the priest happened to enthusiastically splash holy water on my family, hitting my father with enough to cause a water stain on his blazer. The other families around us probably didn’t care. My father, however, darkly turned to the rest of us and muttered, It was probably on that day that metrosexual was added to my expanding primary school vocabulary. I’m sure you’ve noticed that Wally Naymon is a lanky sort of fellow. His pants are tailored to the ankle (“It’s the British thing to do,” he says) and he owns more tweed than I can count. He has eclectic watches, alligator-skin shoes and an enormous collection of ties. He divides his clothes by season. We could probably start a Kiehl’s skin care store out of his closet. And I think the moment I’ve seen him the angriest was when our beloved cat Gracie ate his Etro sweater. To my dad, looking good isn’t just a necessity—it’s practically a religion. To my friends who have met and interacted with my father, it’s their impression that having a dad who sells clothes for a living must be awesome. It sounds nice, doesn’t it? I grew up with a lot of nice clothes. I can go to my dad for fashion advice. It was never embarrassing to go out in public with him because he always dressed well. Sure, in theory it sounds like a pretty good deal.

YOUR FAVORITE OFFER IS BACK! UNTIL APRIL 13, 2012 OR WHILE SUPPLY LASTS. ONE PER CUSTOMER. OTHER RESTRICTIONS APPLY.

But if you ever get the chance to go shopping with my father (outside of Kilgore Trout, of course), here’s some advice from me to you: don’t. To the Naymon family, shopping is never just a fun activity to pass the time or score a new look—It’s market research. The first time I brought my dad with me to a J. Crew store was also the last. He took forever touching all of the fabrics, nodding his head in guarded approval at some things and raising an eyebrow at others. Then he would scan the prices and comment at the state of the store’s inventory. And all I wanted was to leisurely look around! We also can’t go anywhere in Cleveland without a customer recognizing my father and wanting to talk. Behind his back, my mom and I even started calling him the Mayor of Cleveland. But don’t get me wrong, I am grateful every day that my parents are who they are. From spending time at Kilgore Trout to going on buying trips in New York with my mom, I’ve picked up a lot of useful information. I’ve learned that a body and the hand don’t actually refer to human anatomy. I’m one of few college freshmen who know the difference between gingham and tattersall. I could fill out a line sheet with very few errors. And I’ve gained a true appreciation and respect for small businesses and the people who run them. I know a lot of teenagers don’t want to turn into their parents. In my case, it’s already too late. While I don’t think I’ll be starting a clothing store soon, my mom and dad have influenced me in ways I never could have imagined. In high school, for example, I started an unofficial “Leggings are not pants” campaign that I like to think had some degree of influence over my Laurel classmates. When it came time for senior superlatives, mine was even Best Dressed, which I credit completely to my parents. Fashion is, without a doubt, a major part of my life. Hey, what can I say? Blame it on my retail genes.

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FEATURES 1

Welcome Letter

32 Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant 35 Buying Power 52 Escapes: Star Treatment 62 Sports: Much Ado About Ankles

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

FASHION 4

The New Town and Country: Town

18 The New Town and Country: Country 28 Style: Discover Your Inner Italian 30 Profile: Samuelsohn 34 Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style 36 A Walk in the Walled City 44 The Jacket 50 What’s the Bright Idea?

DEPARTMENTS 14 Ask Forum for Him 16 Ask Forum for Her 56 World Scene 60 Spirits: Roll the Barrel 64 End Page: Hitting the Right Notes

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Milano zero-weight unlined sport jacket LUCIANO BARBERA soft cotton striped shirt

THE NEW TOWN AND KILGORE TROUTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MUST-HAVES FOR SPRING 2012

art direction / design christopher hixson photography and digital composition andrew mcallister

RAG & BONE silk Nimue dress in lemon curry,

with epaulets and piping detail

COUNTRY

DL1961 Emma leggings in flamingo, parrot, peacock, and fluorescent yellow

ARNOLD ZIMBERG cotton print shirts with velvet placket and metal buttons

HERNO micro-weight springtime down jacket in champagne for her

ISAIA 50/50 cashmere and silk plaid sportcoat and blue stripe shirt

G. INGLESE linen pocket square

ELIZABETH AND JAMES swing dress with angel sleeves in blue raw silk

GIANNETTO PORTOFINO

100% cotton menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shirts with cutaway collars, in three tartan plaid combinations, made in Italy

ETRO paisley sportcoat, printed cuff jean and Eton cutaway collar shirt EDWARD ARMAH pocket round

JAKETT for her. Jacket or shirt, wear it as you wish. Midnight blue genuine leather with wire on the collar and cuff to create and keep a shape you love.

ASKFORUM

SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?

What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current for spring/summer 2012?

My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the same suits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style. Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a balanced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, twobuttons are in and pleated pants are out! The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea to invest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construction and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights your shape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speed with updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick up a few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins the silhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way to update is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright colors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or soft coats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few times for relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with ones that can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani. The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers that deck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers are always safe bets, too.

CANALI

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to 8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Midweight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regularweight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabric types are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersucker in lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannel in darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

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SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HER

It seems that prints are everywhere, but I’ve never considered myself a “prints person.” Help!

I love white for summer. What can I do to add some visual interest to an all-white outfit?

Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can I translate the look for real life?

From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offering all manner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’s something out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way to introduce them into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic blouse or dress, like the one from Vince pictured at left. There are no hard and fast rules, so the most important thing is to come in and start trying things on! Don’t discount anything until you see how it looks on you. We promise to help you find a pretty print you can wear with confidence, and put the spring back in your step this season.

If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few months out of the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light colored—fashions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add both newness and longevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (bright white, cream and taupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroidery and knit). This look is all about approachability and ease, so try a loose, sheer blouse over a georgette cami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunky cardigan. And don’t forget to carefully consider your undergarments, the literal foundation for any successful white ensemble.

Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll be remiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if you try it on and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is all about proportion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked to flatter your particular shape. Working with your associate is key: she can point you toward the pieces that will work for you, help you decide what alterations to make, and suggest the perfect footwear to complete the look.

EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.

SAND sleeveless cotton dress with grosgrain belt SAND tapestry jacket with fabric buttons

THE NEW TOWN

GIMOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GMS75 washed leather jacket, made in Italy ETRO block plaid cotton shirt in olive, gold and violet HUDSON JEAN 5-pocket Clifton bootcut, made in USA

MORE MUST-HAVES FOR SPRING 2012

AND COUNTRY art direction / design christopher hixson photography and digital composition andrew mcallister

FUZZI chiffon wrap top FUZZI floral shift

GIMO’S women’s butter-soft leather jacket HUDSON JEANS Beth midrise baby boot cut

HER : GIMOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S cotton/poly blend raincoat with zip pockets and leather accents, made in Italy HIM: ALLEGRI silky vintage raincoat of double yarn Batavia cotton fabric with refined basket dye treatment and Teflon technical waterproof performance, made in Italy

JAKETT Courtney rugged leather vest in “optic” includes three interchangeable snap-in wool collars

ISAIA white cotton cargo pant MONCLER cotton pique polo

RAG & BONE midnight blue Dover jacket in nylon/cotton RAG & BONE tailored work wear 100% soft cotton shirt in graph paper blue, and natural canvas jean (rolled)

SAND sea life cotton print sport shirt SAND black label Angelico jacket, fully lined wool and cotton denim with leather patch sleeves, pocket square in cotton/silk

FUZZI silk and cotton dress with separate underlayer skirt

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO / TOMMY TON

style DRESS LIKE YOU WERE BORN INTO LA DOLCE VITA. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

(played to perfection by Marcello Mastroianni) wears a series of form-fitting two-button suits featuring curvaceous lapels, soft natural shoulders and cigarette-cut slacks. When not wearing a shirt and tie, he opts for Johnny collar knit shirts accented with a scarf or ascot, casually knotted at the neck in a way only the most debonair Italian men are capable of pulling off with effectiveness. No one ever second guesses the character’s (supposedly a journalist) sense of style. Forget the fact that no American journalist— except the occasional fashion editor or perhaps the novelist Tom Wolfe—dresses with such unabashed sartorial flair. In Italy, whether students, statesmen or street sweepers, most men naturally possess a sense of chic that eludes the rest of us. Italians grow up in a culture where sartorial style is taken for granted. “We have a native predisposition for elegance and style, a characteristic that has been developed and improved upon over time,” explains Elisabetta Canali, scion of the Canali clothing family. “Good taste and savoir faire are just a part of the Italian culture.” By way of tailors (found on every street corner), Italian men learn about fine fabrics, the importance of a razor-sharp fit and how to mix and match shirts, ties and accessories. Moreover, through experience and experimentation they discover that a suit with a high armhole isn’t necessarily tight and uncomfortable—just the opposite, in fact.

IMAGE BY MICHAEL POLIZA PHOTOGRAPHY

DISCOVER YOUR INNER ITALIAN

IN THE 1960s film La Dolce Vita, main character Marcello Rubini

Most important, they train themselves not to be afraid of color for fear of being bullied or judged. Just as “it is important for men to choose the right silhouette in order to feel most comfortable, it is equally important to work with color to give each outfit some excitement,” adds Canali. “A man should look for a suit he can wear, and not a suit that will wear him. In other words, elegance, sophistication and timeless style are always better than of-the-moment trends, which will date the wearer,” offers Giorgio Armani. “As for style, a two-button suit is more timeless than a three- or a one-button. A single-breasted is more versatile than double, allowing you to dress your suit up or down more freely and use the jacket as a separate more easily.” Finally, says Mr. Armani, “Confidence and a sense of humor make a man sexy.” Dressing like an Italian is about discovering a sense of balance, proportion, color and pattern. One can begin to develop Italian-esque style with a few simple tricks: • Wear dark sunglasses, Mastroianni style, in any weather. • Don loafers without socks. • Drape and loosely knot a colorful sweater over your shoulders. • Carry an oversized bag across your chest. • Secure your necktie with a knot large enough to land a small plane on. • Add a notice-me belt (white is an option even in winter) to bring a touch of panache to your jeans. • Wear a coordinating top coat over your suit or sportcoat. • Consider flat-front red pants or white jeans. If you’re worried about remembering these rules, turn to a designer collection, like Luciano Barbera or Brunello Cucinelli, for inspiration that can help make the process a bit easier. Barbera prefers a bit of formality in his check cashmere sportcoats, worn with crisp cotton shirts, wool ties and flat-front trousers. He also recommends brown suede shoes with most outfits to give your look a sporty yet sophisticated edge. The Cucinelli formula is equally distinctive: trim-cut gray flannel slacks or jeans, a knit shirt and/or pullover sweater, and a gray cashmere blazer with suede elbow patches and a turned up collar. Since Armani invented his slouchy suits in the

’80s, few designers until Cucinelli have seen their “look” adopted by such an eclectic assortment of men—from the 70year-old businessman to the 25-year-old college student. “I think it’s very important how we put things together,” says Cucinelli, one of the few Italian designers who espouses facial hair with his cashmere blazers. “I like to show clothing, even tailored pieces, in a sporty chic way that is ageless. Because when I’m 50 years old, like everyone else, I want to look younger,” adds the designer (who claims to be 49, despite what it says on his birth certificate). Cucinelli designs each piece so it can be worn on its own and in a variety of ways. “A 25-year-old man is not going to wear a classic pinstripe suit,” he says, sug-

gesting that a tailored gray cashmere blazer over khakis or jeans can be equally elegant, depending on the man wearing it. Bottom line: open your mind and experiment with your wardrobe to find your perfect style. After all, you may be able to afford a Gucci suit or Prada loafers, but that cash register receipt doesn’t come with a diploma in style.

“ELEGANCE, SOPHISTICATION AND TIMELESS STYLE ARE ALWAYS BETTER THAN OF-THE-MOMENT TRENDS.” —GIORGIO ARMANI

profile

SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ounded in 1923, Samuelsohn is a Montreal-based clothing company with a reputation for excellence based on fine tailoring, luxury fabrics, unusual attention to detail and modern style. For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring means fully-basted canvas construction: there is no glue in the interlinings of their suits, so that the garment maintains its shape, fit and comfort even after repeated cleanings. Their luxury fabrics are from the best mills in Italy and England, featuring cashmere, camel hair, superfine wools, Pima cotton, Italian silk and precious fibers like vicuna and yangir. Hand-tailored details include Bemberg linings, corozo or horn buttons, silk threads and labels, and Italian cotton pocketing. But perhaps Samuelsohn’s real secret weapon is its designer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grew up working for his family’s clothing company in Montreal before launching his own in the late 1990s. Respected as one of the most talented designers in the industry, he’s also known for his dapper personal style. Here, we speak with him about tailored clothing, and about what makes a well-dressed man.

What’s so special about a Samuelsohn suit? It’s about hand-craftsmanship: each suit takes six and a half hours of labor, more than many of the well-known designer brands that are almost twice the price.

Are they made totally by hand?

No. If we could automate it all, we would. But there are several processes a machine can’t duplicate: the hand-basting, the hand-sewn armholes, the shoulder. Certain steps can be automated and you won’t see the difference, but others cannot. Most importantly, technology has not been able to duplicate a full canvas garment. Cheaper suits look okay on a hanger since the shape comes from pressing. But after dry cleaning, that shape is gone.

Your suits are known for a certain “expression”—what does this mean? It means the garments are not flat: there’s a certain dimension, a softness, a sexiness. After all, the human body is not flat, so a welltailored suit should also have shape and dimension.

What should guys look for when buying a suit?

The most important thing is fit: when you put on the garment, it should make you look better. A well-tailored suit hides myriad imperfections and moves with you. The shoulders should be on you, not out to there. Today, men are wearing suits closer to the

Samuelsohn designer Arnold Brant Silverstone

body, but that shouldn’t mean you lose comfort. It’s like driving a great sports car and really feeling the road. When you wear a quality suit, it moves with you.

How can guys look elegant when they’re not wearing suits?

The biggest problem is when men equate casual with not caring, with throwing on jeans and a T-shirt. The best-dressed men put thought into dressing: casual might mean beautifully tailored cotton pants and a soft jacket or a lightweight knit cashmere sweater or a cool reversible outerwear piece. Think back to the bestdressed men over the decades: The Rat Pack, James Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant, George Clooney… However casual the look, it was well thought-out, not thrown together, reflecting their personal style.

What are the key items a man should have for spring/summer 2012?

1) A great summer suit, maybe a tropical wool in British tan or dove gray. 2) A performance blazer or suit, either with hightwist yarns or some Lycra. Most guys these days are traveling or on the move but there’s no reason not to look crisp… 3) A cool outerwear piece: something reversible or with interior pockets or truly transitional and multi-functional. 4) A soft coat. We’re famous for ours: they look tailored but weigh next to nothing.

What’s the secret of success for a clothing manufacturer? Passion! I’ve been doing this for more than 20 years; I inherited the passion from my parents. But in addition to passion, one needs a spirit of innovation. We’re on top of the latest fabrics, fits, technologies. We’re always pushing the

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE. envelope, never satisfied with the status quo. We want the customer to say “WOW!” every time he puts on one of our garments. That’s my passion, and my mission.

How would you describe your own personal style?

I like to look contemporary: not blending in with the crowd but not blatantly standing out. I like clothing that’s special, with the focus on fit, quality and elegance. That’s the way I like to dress and the kind of clothing I love to design!

retailing

THE SOUL OF A MERCHANT

IF YOU’RE READING THIS MAGAZINE, you’re likely a customer of one of the finest specialty stores in America, run by one of the nation’s top merchants. In today’s highly competitive retail environment, how do these independents compete with stores many times their size? Bottom line, it’s talent, taste, passion, promotion, business savvy, extraordinary service and lots of hard work! Here, we speak with a few star merchants in the Forum store group (a coalition of America’s top specialty apparel stores) to learn what drives them. Theorizes John Malouf of Malouf’s in

Lubbock, Texas: “We’ve survived by featuring only the best product in each category, and by teaching customers how great they can look in the right clothes.” Adds John Braeger of Garys in Newport Beach, California, “Our secret is buyers who live in the community so they really know their customers: their interests, tastes and lifestyles… Our mix is always on target because our merchants personally know who’s buying it.” Braeger also points out that independents are more willing to take risks than stores that are publicly owned. “We buy

smaller quantities with more selection, so you’re less likely to see someone in town wearing the same thing. Our goal is to please customers, not shareholders…” On the misconception that clothing costs more in independent stores, Malouf is adamant. “We never charge more! Our prices are based on typical industry margins, but we give customers so much more than great fashion.” Extras include closet makeovers, expert alterations, wardrobe consulting, extended hours, emailed photos of new products as they arrive, rush delivery and many other per-

GETTY 1 ELDER GALVÃO

NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTED SPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

sonalized services. What’s more, independent merchants often buy designer brands differently than the big stores, working personally with the designers to develop exclusives and fine-tune assortments. Explains Bob White of Hubert White in Minneapolis, “Our advantage is knowing who we’re buying for and combining that personal knowledge with trends in the market. It’s this mix of client and product expertise that separates us from our larger competitors.” Obviously top merchants travel far and wide to find exclusive product: many take eight to 10 trips a year. Says Braeger, “I’d say I spend half the year buying, the other half doing everything else.” Adds Malouf, “We travel regularly to NYC, Dallas, Vegas and Italy, where we work directly with the designers. To me, designing beautiful clothes is analogous to an artist who paints or a musician who composes: it’s creating something of beauty and lasting value.” On a more pragmatic note, Wally

“STORES THAT SURVIVE ARE CLEARLY THE BEST OF THE BEST.” Naymon from Kilgore Trout in Cleveland points out that by shopping at locally owned specialty stores rather than national chains, 80 percent of the money spent stays in the community. But more importantly, says Naymon, independent retailers are more interested in developing long-term relationships than in making

the immediate sale (vs. publicly held companies that are pressured to meet monthly goals). “We’re in it for the long haul,” says Naymon. Howard Vogt of Rodes in Louisville says, “We carry only the best labels, and then tweak assortments to our customers’ lifestyles, our climate, regional events like The Kentucky Derby, etc. It’s a very personalized mix you can’t get in the big department stores.” Craig Andrisen, co-owner of Andrisen Morton in Denver, believes it’s all about relationships. He points out that “employees who are respected, rewarded and well cared for treat their customers the same way.” Adds his business partner Dave Morton, “Our philosophy of business is simple: ‘Never say no, always say yes, then go figure it out.’ Exceptional service is always the ultimate goal.” Sums up Bob Mitchell of Mitchells, Richards, Marsh’s and Wilkes Bashford: “Our personalized approach to everything we do, from buying to marketing to service, allows us to give customers more without costing them more.”

denim

ATTENTION-GRABBING

STYLE

AG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI HO ISN’T SEARCHING for the perfect jeans, a pair that is both comfortable and sexy? Seemingly impossible standards for most brands to live up to… but AG isn’t most brands. Mixing that form-fitting silhouette with a lived-in feel is what makes AG denim the hottest on the market. The company launched in 2001 as a collaboration between Mr. Yul Ku and “the Godfather of denim” Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns 30-year-old Koos Manufacturing, one of the world’s premier denim factories; Goldschmied co-founded Diesel.) The two parted amicably in 2004 and the brand has been on the up-and-up since Ku’s son Sam became design director in 2006. AG manufactures everything in its own

400,000 sq. ft. facility in Los Angeles, employing over 1,000 workers. The amount of time and personal attention that goes into each pair is astonishing: from handsanding and oven-baked whiskering to new eco-friendly laser technologies that help create that perfect vintage look. “We control every step because we’re a vertical operation,” Sam says. “We don’t take shortcuts, or try to save a few cents here and there with cheaper fabrics or trims. We really care about the product and want our consumer to look and feel good in our jeans.” Premium fabrics are sourced from Japan and Italy, many of which are exclusive to the brand. Recently, AG has also impressed with its non-denim styles, like

super-soft pima cotton cords. In denim and other fabrics alike, Sam highlights colored bottoms as one of spring 2012’s hottest trends. Men should try muted colors like sand and charcoal, while women can experiment with a more diverse range: dusty shades of rose and gray, and saturated brights like electric blue and raspberry. The brand has garnered frequent press attention thanks to its many celebrity devotees, including power couple Gavin Rossdale and Gwen Stefani, and Academy Award nominee Anne Hathaway. But Sam gets most excited when he sees someone—anyone—walking down the street in a pair he designed. “For me, that will never get old!”

HOW CAN WE OFFER THIS BLAZER FOR ONLY $44990? Deep fashion industry connections, the cooperative buying power of 13 of the nation’s best menswear shops, and a demand for quality and value at every price point. I can virtually guarantee that this will be your new favorite summer blazer—lightweight and airy, with a contemporary fit and ease. Best of all, it’s just $449.90. And here’s why: Unlike the traditional “stand-alone” retailer, Kilgore Trout has a highly unique affiliation with a small group of family-owned specialty retailers that we call the Forum Group. We’re all independent, yet we trust each other as mentors and peers and we share every aspect of our business with one another, without limits. We visit each other’s stores, we offer expertise back and forth, we take risks together, we give each other the scoop on hard-to-find resources, and whenever possible use our collective power and respected position in the industry to score some exceptional goods at extraordinary values. In this case, it’s a wool crepe seersucker blazer with a great feel, European attention to tailoring, and a gorgeous lining—the kind of jacket that should be tagged at $595 (and if any remain after April 7th, they will be). Visit early, and share in the savings. Kilgore Trout unlined softly constructed Italian wool seersucker blazer, until April 7th just $449.90.

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PHOTOGRAPHY

a walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, and location for the film Lawrence of Arabia – provides the perfect canvas for the bold, romantic and timeless looks of spring 2012...

citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink

THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose. OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia, jacket by Canali.

PaTTERNS

romantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripe

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

The Jacket THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO THE WELL-DRESSED MAN

Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket. A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential finishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfinished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fiber” designed to beat the heat, a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis, even your favorite shorts!

MEMORABLE!

JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE AND ELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUAL EVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON OR CASHMERE... A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCE AND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.

MEMORABLE!

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF THINKING THAT JUST BECAUSE IT’S WARM YOU DON’T NEED A JACKET!

FORGETTABLE FORGETTABLE

The Ermenegildo Zegna 10-Pocket Blazer

3 1 2

6 7

8 9 10

THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC. STYLING: WENDY MCNETT FOR AGENT OLIVER. GROOMING: TREVOR BOWDEN FOR BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI

JACKET OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAY BE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

NOT

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escapes

Star TREATMENT

Below: Sleep under the stars in the Sabi Sands region of South Africa.

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friends gathering around a campfire, slumbering under the stars—appeals to almost everyone. Sleeping on the ground, dirt-speckled food and primitive bathroom facilities do not. Fortunately, enterprising camp creators are removing much of the uncomfortable stuff from a stay in the great outdoors, preserving all the good and adding even more incentives. Glam camping, or “glamping” as it’s now called, has spread around the world. The Clayoquot Wilderness Resort is located on the west coast of Vancouver

Island (reachable by boat or sea plane). Here, guests who love the great outdoors can hike, fish, or climb to a treetop observation platform to view one of the oldest temperate rainforests in the world, then “fly” over the forest via a 285 meter-long flight line. For those who prefer less strenuous exploits, Clayoquot offers wine tastings, spa tents and library tents with an internet café. And the accommodations will surely attract the luxury-loving camper. Tents reminiscent of those used in 19th-century great safari camps have king beds with down

IMAGE BY FLOATING ECO-LODGE CAMBODIA

duvets, antique dressers and tea tables, Persian carpets, working bathrooms and heated floors. There are even bathrobes and turndown service. The Resort at Paws Up, located on 37,000 acres along the Blackfoot River near Missoula, Montana, offers a range of year-round activities: 120 miles of designated hiking and riding trails, fly-fishing, whitewater rafting, cross-country skiing, and more. Recently, Paws Up has opened their most luxurious tented accommodations ever. Set on a bluff overlooking the Blackfoot River and Elk Creek, Pinnacle Camp has one- and twobedroom suites with climate controls, jetted tubs in the ensuite bathrooms and decks with river views. There’s even a personal “camping butler.” If you want to go off by yourself, boutique adventure company Global

Above, left: The Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia Above, Right: Abercrombie & Kent’s Sahara Desert Camp

Expeditions, Inc. offers private custom excursions. This company doesn’t have a fixed location or standard package. Instead, an area is leased exclusively for you and a luxury tented camp is created. Global will fly in a chef from anywhere in the world, and cater to your whims with yoga masters, masseurs and estheticians, or authorities on geology, ecology and astronomy. For stargazers, there are several other options. Abercrombie & Kent will

arrange for you to explore the mysterious Sahara Desert. After a tour of the area (including Berber villages and the Atlas Mountains) guests set off across the desert for a four-wheel drive to the camp, situated in a remote area overlooking the Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s a sunset camel ride through the Sahara’s dazzling expanse, followed by a Moroccan dinner, traditional entertainment and a spacious Caidal tent. Then there’s Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia, located in Tatai, next to the Thai border between Bangkok and Phnom Penh. There are 12 tented villas, each with a flat-screen TV, mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trek into the jungle to explore one of the world’s largest rainforests, kayak down river, fish, or perhaps stop off for a natural hydro massage in the Tatai Waterfalls. At the end of the day, you can relax on your private sun-lounger balcony for a cocktail. If you want to get away from (and above) it all, Lion World Tours, specializing in trips to southern and eastern Africa, can arrange for you to stay in a treehouse. In the Sabi Sands region of South Africa, an astonishing bedroom has been built around a majestic 500-year-old Leadwood tree. Guests are taken to the camp at sunset to gaze out over the plains while enjoying Champagne and local delicacies, before turning in on lavish linens in complete privacy… and, naturally, sleeping under the stars.

Our town has some great local merchants and professional resources, and here are a few favorites. When you visit, tell them Kilgore Trout sent you. Award-winning interiors for people who seek individuality are the hallmark of JOHN FLORIAN KONCAR. John offers complete residential transformations, customized renovations and interior decoration, tailored as finely as a bespoke suit and personal to the lives of the owners, all designed with confidence, elegance and comfort. As John is fond of saying, “appropriateness is all.”

JOHN KONCAR INTERIORS, 216.831.1105, BROWSE HIS PORTFOLIO AT JOHNKONCAR.COM

So often, we see a great cut or color, and we ask our customer “Who does your hair?” And many times, the answer is “Studio MZ, of course.” STUDIO MZ loves their clients, and has created a welcoming, comforting, stylish destination salon offering a complete range of services for women and men—and it’s just up the street.

From the most significant international artists of the 20th and 21st centuries to artists gaining world-wide recognition, CONTESSA GALLERY exhibits unique, highly sought after, museumquality artwork. Picasso, Warhol, Close and Drebin are among the notables on view or in their extensive inventory of original paintings, works on paper, sculpture and photography.

CONTESSA GALLERY AT LEGACY VILLAGE, 216.382.7800, CONTESSAGALLERY.COM

Discover your dream destination for professional makeup application, brow sculpting, makeup lessons, specialized facial treatments with results, and a boutique filled with fabulous products for pampering. Trust the professional artists at THE POWDER ROOM for flawless bridal makeup, too. They’ll host your special day, or have their team come to you!

INSIDE ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.831.7666, THEPOWDERROOMBOUTIQUE.COM

STUDIO MZ SALON, 27629 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.464.3910, STUDIOMZ.NET

“There are so many cute shoes in the world; why aren’t there more cute shoe stores?” is what shoe-lover Amy Puchowicz once thought. With two locations now, AMY’S SHOES carries a wide variety of special styles for distinctive tastes, while offering superior customer service.

TWO LOCATIONS: ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.292.0120, AMYSSHOES.COM OLD RIVER SHOPPING AREA, 19134 OLD DETROIT RD, ROCKY RIVER, 440.409.0120

No matter your preference in architecture style, location or price, CICI RILEY is the one to call! She offers discreet professional service of the highest order, an unwavering attention to detail, and with the backing of Howard Hanna, unparalleled customized marketing programs and the highest level of industry services with hands-on attention to each client’s unique and individual needs.

CICI RILEY, CRS, REALTOR/BROKER, HOWARD HANNA, 216.831.9310, CICIRILEY.COM

AND DON’T MISS THESE SPRING EVENTS AT TROUT... Visit kilgoretrout.com or our Facebook page for up-to-the-minute details! Through April 13th Friday & Saturday, March 9 & 10 Thursday, March 15 Friday & Saturday, March 30 & 31 Friday & Saturday, April 20 & 21

resources

CELEBRATE OUR INDEPENDENTS!

Spend $500 and get a $100 Zach Bruell Restaurant Gift Certificate* Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure Event Denim Go Bragh! It’s St. Patrick’s Day in our Women’s Store Samuelsohn Made-to-Measure & W. Kleinberg Leather Goods Rag & Bone Launch Party and Trunk Event (men and women)

*One offer per customer, rules and exclusions apply, please see kilgoretrout.com or call your sales consultant for complete details.

world scene THE ART OF STYLE

e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a very fashionable hotel. Between rushing out to glamorous appointments, modish guests dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long for cocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend by Clarins (which has the longest indoor pool in Paris). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers. Paintings, drawings and photography exhibitions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere. There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Garden in Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le Royal Monceau is also home to the city’s first art concierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treasures and organizes excursions, such as a visit to contemporary art galleries in the Marais and St. Germain areas, or a private viewing of the Henri Matisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, home is where the art is.

BAYEUX TOURIST OFFICE

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

UN JOUR EN NORMANDIE

he lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape layered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and artifacts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers of Louis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italian-style gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a family estate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm, where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

SUMMER READING

IMAGE BY GLENN SUOKKO

here’s a reason Twin Farms is a nice place to curl up with a good book. Set in Vermont, just north of Woodstock on 300 acres of meadows and woodlands, this quiet country hideaway was once the home of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson. Here, many of the great names in literature gathered to talk (and probably argue) about their work and lives. Twin Farms retains its aura of simplicity and coziness. There are hand-painted murals, rich maple and pine woodwork, American folk art and rustically elegant accommodations, with king-size feather beds, wood-burning fireplaces and screened porches. If you need to stretch, there’s hiking, biking, tennis, pond swimming, fly fishing and canoeing. But why bother? Just relax and catch up on your reading.

PLUGGED IN

ven if you’re not a motorcycle enthusiast, chances are you’re going to want to tool around the countryside (or slip quickly through city traffic) this summer on the top-of-the-line bike from Evolve. The Titanium XR is all electric: no gas, no oil, no emissions. It can go up to 60 miles per hour, has a range of 100 miles on one charge and is almost completely silent. At your request, Evolve will even make coordinating accessories, such as a container sized perfectly to hold your picnic basket or bottle of bubbly.

FROM THE TOP

IMAGE BY GREG POWERS

n warm evenings, New Yorkers love to gather at rooftop lounges. Upstairs At The Kimberly is a favorite among celebrities and fashion insiders. The view is spectacular, the lounge is never uncomfortably crowded (there’s a strict rule about the number of people admitted), and the staff is charming. Together, sommeliers Branimir Kostic and Niko Mavreas have created an extensive list that boasts a collection of spirits and wines from all over the world, including an astonishing 26 different kinds of Champagne. There are wonderful savory and sweet things to munch on (try the truffled mac and cheese or lobster sliders), and either sommelier is happy to help guests choose a wine and food pairing. Reach for the stars.

Spring 2012

View the rest of the Spring 2012 collection

coppley.com

spirits

ROLL OUT THE BARREL

atered down" liquor is a loaded term, implying a less-than-premium product. The fact is, almost all hard spirits are watered down before you buy them. By U.S. law, most hard spirits must have a minimum ABV (alcohol by volume) of 40%, or 80 proof (liqueurs, sweetened, infused alcoholic beverages, can have a much lower ABV). Since booze usually comes off the still between 110 and 190

proof, water is added to bring it down to our acquired palate and maximize the base product. The concept of ‘cask-strength’ spirits—that is, bottling the product exactly as drawn from a maturing barrel—has only recently gained cachet, particularly among Scotch whisky drinkers. These days, there are cask-strength releases of Laphroig, The Glenlivet, The Macallan and so on, targeting the malt whisky aficionado. "Cask-strength whiskies generally have a much more intense flavor profile," says Michael J. Neff, co-owner of the whisky-driven Manhattan bar Ward III. "It allows a broader range of experience.” ‘Cask strength,’ by convention, is "the natural strength of the spirit, unadulterated by water, and is dependent on maturation conditions," says Iain McCallum, master blender for The Bowmore, Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch whiskies. As a result, the final proof usually differs from bottling to bottling, so the latest release of Auchentoshan Valinch might have an ABV of 57.5%, while Bowmore's 10-year Tempest Batch 2 is 56%. Whisky and bourbon aren't the only aged spirits drinkers are sipping straight from the barrel these days: • DeLeon Tequila, a relatively new luxury label, released its extra-aged expression last fall at cask strength. The $250 tequila, aged 51 months, comes in at 51 proof. Founder Brent Hocking is confident in the purity of his product. "At cask strength, you can taste flaws or additives," he says. • Because Cognac is generally a blend of dozens of barrels, and heavily regulated by French law, it's rare to find cask-strength expressions in America. So when Pierre Ferrand Cognac released its $600 limited edition 1972 Cask Strength a couple of years ago, it was a big deal. And when it's gone, it's gone. • Pisco, a white, brandy-like grape spirit, is gaining popularity in North America. According to Johnny Schuler, founder of the new premium label Pisco Porton, "in Peru, pisco is distilled to strength, with no water, oak or anything else added." This produces a clean spirit at about 86 proof. "It's an honest drink," Schuler says.

IMAGE DELEON TEQUILA

CASK-STRENGTH SPIRITS MOVE BEYOND WHISKY. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

T H E

U L T I M A T E

T R O U S E R

sports

“WE’RE SEEING THE BEGINNING OF A SHIFT BACK TO THE OLD DAYS, WITH BOTH SOLID HIGH SOCKS AND STIRRUPS.”

MUCH ADO ABOUT ANKLES

MLB PLAYERS ARE SHOWING SOME LEG. BY WILLIAM N. WALLACE

AP PHOTO/JIM MONE

New York Yankees Curtis Granderson, left, and Derek Jeter celebrate as they score on August 19th, 2011, in Minneapolis. READERS PLEASE NOTE: An important fashion trend is emerging, and from Major League Baseball, of all conservative places! It concerns stockings. No, not the Cincinnati Red Stockings, the first American base-

ball team whose players got paid to play (1869). Nor sox as in Boston Red Sox or Chicago White Sox. This discernible drift is to socks that come up to the knees—knee socks—and thus eschew those long loose pants now standard in MLB.

(Some pant legs these days are so elongated it’s a wonder players don’t trip and fall on the way to home plate!) Knee socks in two styles, plain and stirrup, are trending, I sense, perhaps because baseball players

have little choice in what they wear to games. The essence of a uniform is that all dress the same, which means the cap, the shirt and the pants are standard issue. In other words, all parts of the baseball uniform are preordained... except for the socks. urtis Granderson, the New York Yankees’ star center fielder, wears knee socks in dark Yankee blue. So does teammate Alex “A-Rod” Rodriguez, the multi-million dollar third baseman. Yet like the vast majority of MLB players, teammate Derek Jeter does not. The fashion iconoclasts are attention grabbers. In casually watching last year’s World Series,

that Lajoie had come down with “blood poisoning” because the dye from the stocking got into the wound. It was an unlikely tale, but nevertheless the next season, Cleveland players wore pure white stockings to avoid blood poisoning (according to the Globe). Soon the players were wearing two pairs of socks: the thin white underneath called “the sanitary” and a colored one on top. That double layer made for a snug fit in the shoe, so the colored toes and heels were cut away. The effect was a stirrup sock, a fashion feature that endured for decades. These stockings were worn in various display colors to identify the teams: brown for the St. Louis Browns for example. Babe Ruth wore green socks when he was with the Brooklyn Dodgers.

1930s, had rolled his pants well below the knee. So did Ted Williams, the Red Sox slugger of the 1940s and ’50s. But they were exceptions. Ultimately, longer pants all but eliminated the knee sock as uniform. Something was definitely lost, says Tyler Kepner, the Times’ lead baseball columnist. “I would love to see players show more socks or stirrups and express themselves within the confines of the uniform,” he told me. “But most go with the modern trend of wearing pants to the ankles or lower, showing no sock at all.’’ As with many a fashion trend, it’s hard to grasp what forces lowered pant legs. My theory is that once the big stars—like Barry Bonds as he came on in the ’80s— dropped their pants, others followed like sheep.

“I WOULD LOVE TO SEE PLAYERS SHOW MORE SOCKS OR STIRRUPS AND EXPRESS THEMSELVES WITHIN THE CONFINES OF THE UNIFORM.” —TYLER KEPNER, THE NEW YORK TIMES my wife picked up on the stockings of Octavio Dotel, one of many relief pitchers for the winning St. Louis Cardinals. He was wearing bold stirrup socks—red ones with blue and white stripes. Dotel’s choice of legwear under the bright lights of the World Series brought back the past. Reader, surely you have heard of Napoleon Lajoie? Nap Lajoie was so good that the team he played for was named after him: the Cleveland Napoleons of the newly founded American League in the early 1900s. In that era, players wore wool socks that pulled up over the knee. During a 1905 game, Lajoie was spiked by a rival shortstop named O’Leary when Nap came sliding into second base. O’Leary’s shoe spikes cut through Lajoie’s stocking and into his leg, drawing blood. The Boston Globe later reported

Ruth? The great Yankees All-Star was never a Dodger, you’re thinking. But yes, he was: as the first base coach in 1937, in a publicity stunt to sell tickets. And the uniform trim was green that season but soon returned to Dodger blue. The stirrup sock, universal by 1910, acquired tweaks in its evolution. More and more of the outer was cut away, leaving in some cases just a thin strip of identifying color pulled over the white stocking underneath. We know a lot about the subject thanks to baseball historian Mark Okkonen, author of Baseball Uniforms of the 20th Century. That big picture book was published in 1991 as the pants trend continued to go south of the kneecap. Okkonen chose to ignore it. Earlier, Carl Hubbell, ace pitcher for the New York Giants in the

But now we’re seeing the beginning of a shift back to the old days, with both solid high socks and stirrups. Said Kepner, “Guys like ARod, Ian Kinsler (Texas Rangers), Hunter Pence (Philadelphia Phillies) and Dave Robertson (New York Yankees) don’t wear stirrups like they did in the old days. But they do display a lot of their standard, colored socks. “A few guys do prefer actual stirrups, but very few: Juan Pierre (Chicago White Sox), Ubaldo Jimenez (Cleveland Indians), Octavio Dotel (St. Louis Cardinals), Josh Outman (Oakland) and Reed Johnson (Chicago Cubs) come to mind. But mostly it’s the plain high socks. Too bad.” William N. Wallace is a retired sportswriter for The New York Times, working from Westport, CT.

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HITTING THE RIGHT NOTES

IN 1935, AT 10 YEARS OLD, my father lost his dad in a fire. The death left a Polish-speaking widow to raise her six children in the blue collar town of Sayreville, New Jersey. With no father at home, my dad adopted multiple father figures from his working class, Catholic town. They taught him how to smoke, sing, swear, tie a four-in-hand and handle his whiskey. By 14, Julius Anthony Richard Rarus was singing with these men— most twice his age—in a Sayreville glee club. After graduating from a Catholic high school, my dad joined the Army, serving as a payroll master on a base in America’s Bible Belt. The only action he saw during WWII was at the officer’s club, in his tailor’s shop, and in the beds of the local girls who’d fall for the handsome singer in the custom-made khaki uniform. After the war came college, the Cold War, and a possible new career. At the time, J. Edgar Hoover’s men were recruiting agents who could ferret out Communist infiltrators from post-war Eastern Europe. Aware of my dad’s Polish fluency, they pursued him, noting that his crisply tailored Ivy League suits, rakish fedoras and linen pocket squares would serve him well with The Director. But after months of interviews, background checks and tails from other agents to see where he drank, slept and prayed, he was passed over for being “too liberal.” He’d tell me these stories on Sunday nights, as he filed his nails, polished his Aldens and brushed his fur felt hats. He’d hum along to Stan Kenton, Benny Goodman and Frank Sinatra on the Hi-Fi, and reminisce about how he courted my mother in jazz clubs while being courted by the F.B.I. “I’d wear my best custom suits, hire a chauffeured car, pick up Mom over in Princeton, and we’d drive into the city to see Lenny Bruce, George Shearing, Maxine Sullivan, Tony Bennett…” Years after my dad’s passing, I found myself standing next to Tony Bennett in a Manhattan men’s store. We began a conversation about music. “Music is good or it’s not music,” Mr. Bennett told me with unabashed certainty. “We might call it music because it sounds like music, but it’s bad sound. It’s that simple and always has been.” He leaned forward, stared into my eyes with fatherly concern and asked, softly, “Understand?” I didn’t, to be honest. But I knew my dad would have understood perfectly.

LIKE GOOD MUSIC STYLE IS A MÉLANGE OF ECLECTIC ELEMENTS, THE WHOLE INEFFABLY GREATER THAN ITS PARTS. BY JAMES RARUS