Jck oct2014 by Kim Corrigan

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY OCTOBER 2014

â&#x20AC;˘ JCKONLINE.COM

IT'S A GIFT Cuffs, Climbers & More: 33 Super-Stylish Surefire Best Sellers

HOLIDAY WIN! From Store Decor to Seasonal Stock, a Survival Guide to Your Biggest Quarter

GEN Y SOCIETY Millennials, Luxury, and How to Nab Their Business

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Makes Jewelry with Chocolate Diamonds

VANILLA DIAMONDS® 14K STRAWBERRY GOLD®

EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE FOR LUXURY INDEPENDENT JEWELERS LEVIAN.COM • 877-2-LEVIAN • EMAIL: SALES@LEVIAN.COM

CENTURION SOUTH BEACH - SALON 48

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LUXURY REIMAGINED Invisible Flexibility

Simply Stretch and Stack

BGK Graphics

18 K Gold & Diamonds

23 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036

212-764-7845 • email: platini18K@aol.com • www.platinijewelry.com JIS MIAMI • LUXURY BY JCK • JA NY SUMMER

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tuller.

Brighten your bottom line with

Holiday Season 2014

Whether your customers are looking to simply purchase a gift, restore a family heirloom, or create something completely unique, Stuller has the products and services that will help you make their holidays merry and bright.

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Unrivaled selection boosts your bottom line. Offering a breadth of options for engagement ring shoppers is critical. So look to Stuller solutions like our low-cost prototype selling systems or use Stuller.com to order from stock.

Personalization boosts your bottom line. It’s easier than ever to deliver exactly what customers want in just a few keystrokes. Stuller.com gives you design ﬂexibility. Look for the 3C icon.

Diamonds boost your bottom line. Di Stuller’s on hand diamond inventory is unrivaled. And every diamond Stu we sell is backed by 44 years of guaranteed satisfaction, quality and service. Sell with conﬁdence knowing our extensive selection can meet ser the needs of your demanding clientele.

Look for your 1,000-page Jewelry 2015-2016 catalog arriving October 15th.

Order today, and sell them tomorrow.

s tulle r.com

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800 877 7777

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G E N E R A T I O N A L

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H E R I T A G E

G O L D

Nothing says forever more than gold. Our Heritage Collection is expertly crafted in Italy, and offers a smart combination of timeless, yet contemporary, designs easily wearable by todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern woman. Royal Chainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lifetime Warranty and its 36 years of unmatched history and experience in gold make it the one and only source. Let your customers leave a legacy of gold jewelry worthy of their heirs.

ROYALCHAI N.COM

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800.622.0960

LI FET IME WARRANT Y The original - and still the best.

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2015

S AV E THE DATE F E B R U A R Y 2 –7, 2 0 1 5

JW MARRIOTT TUCSON STARR PASS RESORT & SPA

J C KO N LIN E .CO M / TU C S O N

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JCK TUCSON JOINS TUCSON JEWELRY WEEK OFFERING A UNIQUE AND CREATIVE RETAILER EXPERIENCE.

ACCESS to some of the finest jewelry artisaj and manufacturen displaying unique designs and colored gemstones

DISCOVER one-of-a-kind handcrafted pieces you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find anywhere else BE INSPIRED in a casual, low-pressure business environment featuring a broad selection of price points

J C KO N LIN E .CO M / TU C S O N

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CONTENTS October 2014

Dreaming of a white (diamond) Christmas…

86 85 Shopping Days Left! Our annual Holiday Survival Guide covers store decor, seasonal ordering, and the coolest new jewels on customers’ wish lists. BY EMILI VESILIND & JENNIFER HEEBNER

100 Saturday Fever Small Business Saturday is the independent jewelry store owner’s best bet for capturing sales during the peak shopping days of the holiday season. BY DANIEL P. SMITH

SP O

TLI

LUXURY

104 The Young and the Excess How (the often misunderstood) millennials relate to luxury, consumption, spending, and the retail experience. BY KRISTIN YOUNG

108 Gilty Pleasures ’Tis the season to break out your biggest, best, and most completely dazzling jewels. You’ll be the life— and the envy—of every party. PHOTOGRAPHS BY TED MORRISON

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COVER AND THIS PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUCE SOYEZ-BERNARD. STYLING BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI. MARKET EDITOR: JENNIFER HEEBNER. MAKEUP BY KUMIKO HIROSE AT LVA ARTISTS. HAIR BY MICHAEL MORENO AT LVA ARTISTS. MANICURE BY JOI OFFUTT FOR PAINTBOX. (COVER) SEQUINED JACKET BY HAUTE HIPPIE. On the cover: Spring fringe earrings in 20k gold with diamonds, $36,000, Coomi, Secaucus, N.J., 866867-7272, coomi.com; cuff in 18k gold-plated silver with peridot and amethyst, $13,118, La Reina by Bhansali, Los Angeles, 213-623-8482, lareinacollection. com; Exotica ring in 18k gold with glass-ﬁlled ruby, red sapphires, and diamonds, $13,165, Lydia Courteille, Paris, 33-14-261-1171, lydiacourteille.com. On this page: earrings in platinum and 18k gold with radiant-cut yellow diamonds and pear-shape and other colorless diamonds, price on request, David Mor, Great Neck, N.Y., 516-498-3833, brandon@davidmorny.com; Fusion ring in 18k gold with emeralds and diamonds, $3,375, Bhansali, Los Angeles, 213-623-8483, bhansalijewelry.com; bracelet in 18k gold with rubies and diamonds, $76,350, Goldstein Diamonds, Scottsdale, Ariz., 800-237-0364, goldsteindiamonds.com

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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isn’t it peculiar…

how easy it is to say “yes” when you’re speechless?

guertinbrothers.com | 800-225-3141 Made in the U.S.A.

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Made in USA, Inclusive Marketing Program

ZIVA Jewels | 550 South Hill Street, Suite 1690 | Los Angeles, CA 90013 | 800.227.2464 | Info@ZivaJewels.com

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CONTENTS 60

Houston retailer Joseph Keith Ronquillo

126

Lauren Lunsford, The Shak’s jewelry and accessories buyer

DEPARTMENTS 14 JEWEL BOX

50 TECH SUPPORT

74 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

10 things rocking the industry

Getting real about augmented reality

20 FROM THE EDITOR

52 IT’S ALL RELATIVE

A colorful chat with gemstone guru Irene Neuwirth

Charles Koll Jewellers in San Diego

82 JCK ASKS… Karen Karch

56 VIEW FROM THE TOP

84 THE WAY WE WORE

33 NEWS GEMS

Patek Philippe USA president Larry Pettinelli

Joan Crawford, forever a fan of Raymond C. Yard

Your front-row seat to spring 2015 New York Fashion Week

60 STORE WE ADORE

114 SHOW BIZ

Joseph Keith in Houston

JIS heats up Miami Beach. Plus: JA’s Special Delivery in NYC.

22 FROM THE PUBLISHER 30 SOCIAL DIARY

36 THE SCOOP 39 INDUSTRY & PEOPLE 40 GEM PRICING REPORT 44 THE CALENDAR Industry shows, Oct. 1–Nov. 2, 2014

Marks Jewelers in Pennsylvania

116 THE VAULT

64 THE LOOK

We’re sweet on Mira Gulati’s cherry earrings.

Earrings that make a double impact

66 STYLE FILE

118 GOLD

The secrets of great service

48 RETAIL DETAILS

72 FASHION INTEL

132 BRILLIANT

Jeffery B Jewelers in Aurora, Colo.

Trends and ads from September’s mags

Bedazzling sale of the season

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JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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Vita Fede pearl and crystal earrings

117 BRIDAL

White-hot gowns and red-hot jewels at the 2014 Emmy Awards

46 SHOP TALK

62 INNOVATIVE RETAILER

120 COLORED STONES

PHOTOGRAPH BY FELIX SANCHEZ

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JEWELBOX 10 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

1 ORGANIZATIONS It was with a heavy heart that Tanzanite Foundation executive director Hayley Henning announced the closure of the promotional agency (including its New York City office) in August. The 11-year-old nonproﬁt was formed by miner TanzaniteOne to serve ethically and socially responsible operators and partners in the tanzanite industry, helping implement standardized methods of conduct and deliver ethically sourced stones to market. The decision was largely economic—the gem has been trading at all-time lows—but TanzaniteOne aims to keep as many of its projects, like raising money for schools and clinics, operating under its direction. 14

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Ring in 18k yellow gold with 24.21 ct. tanzanite, diamonds, and pink sapphires; $84,000; Erica Courtney, Los Angeles; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com

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Introducing Apple’s very ﬁrst timepiece

3 CELEBRITIES

2 WATCHES The Apple Watch will “redeﬁne” what watches can do, CEO Tim Cook boasted at the Sept. 9 product event. The long-rumored gizmo will hit stores in 2015 and comes in three styles (and two sizes), from an entry-level edition starting at $349 to a high-end model with an 18k gold case (the price wasn’t given, but it won’t be cheap). Critics were impressed by the major design innovation: a “digital crown,” which can scroll and zoom, much like classic watch design and functionality. The Apple Watch, however, requires an iPhone—and a newer model at that—and analysts were disappointed it doesn’t stand on its own. Still, the wearable doesn’t lack for features: It can track heart rate, play music, and contact other users—what Apple calls the “walkie-talkie” feature. It even tells time!

Modern Family’s Soﬁa Vergara is TV’s highestpaid actress, but she’s also a full-time jewelry evangelist—or so her new jewelry collection for Kay Jewelers would suggest. The line, dubbed So Soﬁa, includes gem-set rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets in 10k gold andKowalski sterling silver, and each piece features a hidden natural emerald—a nod to Vergara’s home country of Colombia. Vergara, who professes to love jewelry so much that she wears it to bed, hasn’t been shy about talking up the line. “Obsessed with my Kay jewels bangels [sic]!!!” she wrote in a recent Instagram post. Even if spelling isn’t her strong suit, her style quotient is superb.

So Soﬁa necklace with amethyst, tanzanite, and white topaz in sterling silver; $239

4 VIDEOS If you always wanted to see jewelers dump cold water on themselves, August was a great month for you. That’s when the Ice Bucket Challenge went viral, with millions getting doused to raise money for the ﬁght against ALS (amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, also known as Lou Gehrig’s disease). Industry Facebook pages were ﬁlled with clips of business buddies soaking themselves for the cause. The viral sensation eventually snagged everyone from heads of Jewelers of America, Blue Nile, and Saks Fifth Avenue—that’s president Marigay McKee getting drenched (right)—to brick-and-mortar retailers, including Hamilton Jewelers in Princeton, N.J.; Jewelry by Design in Woodbridge, Va.; and Lily & Co. in Sanibel, Fla.

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JEWELBOX

The Harrods Princess, a one-of-a-kind timepiece from Backes & Strauss, with 80 Gemﬁelds emeralds and 13.52 cts. t.w. diamonds

6 DIAMONDS It’s not uncommon to see companies proclaim “We buy diamonds.” But no one expected one of those companies to be De Beers. In September, the gem giant debuted the International Institute of Diamond Valuation (IIDV), a New York City– based lab that plans to handle off-the-street diamond buying for retailers. (So far, four jewelers, representing 15 doors, are taking part in the test.) The new service says it will pay the “highest possible price…on the secondary wholesale market” for trade-in gems. Some smelled a new business venture, but De Beers says it’s just experimenting with a way to improve the used diamond market.

HAUTE JOAILLERIE To describe September’s Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris as a luxury art, antiques, and jewelry fair is like saying the holidays are an important time of year for retail jewelers—a statement can be true yet still miss the point. From Graff ’s Royal Star of Paris, a brooch loaded with 271.33 cts. t.w. diamonds—including the 107.46 ct. fancy yellow Graff Sunﬂower—to Wallace Chan’s exquisite gemstone cuts, the jewels on display at the biannual fair, which took place Sept. 11–21, represent the ne plus ultra of the jewelry universe. And it’s not too late to see them. If you’re passing through London Oct. 1–14, pop by Harrods to admire its Biennale-themed exhibition. Just don’t forget the digits to your Swiss bank account!

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7 E-TAILERS Famed craft e-tailer Etsy is going wholesale. The new Etsy Wholesale division emerged from beta testing this summer—and jewelry is the biggest category. Product manager Vanessa Bertozzi tells JCK the site was created in response to retailer requests: “We heard them say: I come to Etsy, I have to search and search and search, and ﬁnally when I ﬁnd something that I would like in my shop, the seller doesn’t know anything about wholesale.” Most of the sales will be made through the company’s online portal, with Etsy receiving 3.5 percent of each purchase.

ANTIQUE WEDDING RING: PETER MCCUE/THINKSTOCK

Chrysoprase and silver earrings ($158) from Moira K. Lime via Etsy

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JEWELBOX

8 PROPOSALS

Susanna Franks’ willyou-marry-me moment was captured on Ring Cam.

The moment a woman receives her engagement ring—and hopefully says yes—is the most sacred and important in our industry, judging from how often it’s featured in commercials. And yet very few of those moments are actually captured, because if a ﬁancé-to-be whips out a camera, the surprise is ruined. Now a group of Hope College graduates has invented the Ring Cam, a jewelry box that includes a hidden video recorder, so that the reaction to the proposal can be saved and (presumably) posted on Facebook. The entrepreneurs hope to market the high-tech box to retailers; they’ve also auditioned for the next season of Shark Tank.

Pandora’s Disney Minnie & Mickey Kiss charm in sterling silver and enamel; $55 (available in November)

9 BEADS In August, charm manufacturer Pandora inked a “strategic alliance” with The Walt Disney Co., which will kick off with a line of silver and gold charms embossed with Disney characters such as Mickey and Minnie Mouse. The Danish company will also get a presence in Disney’s U.S. theme parks. Pandora executives say they are “ecstatic” about the new venture, adding that customers have been requesting Disney-themed jewels for years. Maybe they wished upon a charm.

STATS ATS Consumer mer conﬁdence, as me meas measured asur ured ed b byy Th Thom Thomson omso son n Re Reut Reuters uter erss an and d th thee Un Univ University iver ersity of Michigan, hit 82.5 in A August, its h highest Still, h llevell since July l 2007, or seven llong years ago. S ll the h news wasn’t all good, with consumer spending, as measured by the Department of Commerce, falling 0.1 percent in July—the ﬁrst drop in six months. While economists remained bullish, retailers were a little more pessimistic about the economy. “The low- to moderate-income customer is struggling,” Ross Stores president and chief operating officer Michael O’Sullivan said on an Aug. 21 earnings call, as quoted by Bloomberg. “We don’t see a lot of evidence that that’s going to change in the back half.”

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CONSUMER CONFIDENCE

AUGUST JULY

82.5 81.7

SOURCE: THOMSON REUTERS/UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN

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FROM THE EDITOR Memento Vivere

VICTORIA GOMELSKY Editor-in-Chief 20

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We couldn’t resist the cotton candy at dinner in Lafayette, La., with JCK’s Randi Gewertz, Stuller’s Ashley Brown, and JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind.

Biking through New Orleans’ Bywater neighborhood was a highlight of our two-day blitz through the Big Easy.

GOMELSKY PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVEN SIMKO. BIKE RIDE: JAMES S. SULLIVAN.

At the end of August, my friend Jen Thomas convinced me to join her at a custom scent–making shop in Thousand Oaks, Calif., to spend what I then considered an obscene amount of money ($200) on a relatively small amount of perfume. I’ve been on the hunt for a signature scent for as long as I can remember, but the graveyard of spent perfume bottles cluttering my bathroom shelf made me wonder if there was such a thing. I was skeptical when we arrived at the Blending Bar. But as founder Sarah Horowitz and her protégé, Debra Piver, seduced our olfactory nerves with tantalizing scents—pikake, blood orange, sweet lime— stored in a rainbow of apothecary bottles, I found it hard to suppress my giddiness. Jen and I each narrowed down our favorite smells until we had a combination of base notes, bouquets, and top notes that pleased us on a visceral level. Afterward, I could barely stop inhaling myself. The pure oil roll-on and ½ ounce eau de parfum I came away with—I named it Memento Vivere, after my favorite phrase, Latin for “remember to live”—had all the makings of my signature scent, and not just because its mix of exotic and ﬂoral aromas is my brand of deliciousness. The experience of creating my own perfume, and doing so with a dear friend, was so much fun that when my bottle runs dry, I intend to order a supersize version. The ability to offer bespoke services—be they custom-designed engagement rings or one-on-one shopping experiences of the type that appeal to millennial shoppers, as noted in contributor Kristin Young’s insightful Luxury Spotlight feature on how Gen Y shops (“The Young and the Excess,” page 104)—will set savvy retailers apart from their middling competitors in the months and years to come. There’s no better time to test that theory than now, as we buckle down for the 2014 selling season. Our annual Holiday Survival Guide (“85 Shopping Days Left!,” page 86) contains the essentials of merchandising in the fourth quarter—from both visual and inventory perspectives—so that retailers can focus on the selling. To aid and abet that effort, read contributor Daniel P. Smith’s feature on Small Business Saturday (“Saturday Fever,” page 100), which tells you how you can take advantage of this year’s popular retailing promotion, taking place Nov. 29. Elsewhere in this sumptuous issue (big shout-outs to senior art director Lance Pettiford and photo editor Leah Rudolfo for orchestrating the exquisite still-life shots in “Gilty Pleasures” on page 108), we cover the unveiling of the long-awaited Apple Watch (Jewel Box, page 15). Vanessa Friedman, writing in The New York Times, came to the same conclusion news director Rob Bates did about the buzz-worthy wearable: “I don’t think Patek Philippe should be shivering in its boots.” Indeed, our interview with the brand’s USA president, Larry Pettinelli (“Watch and Learn,” page 56), proves the point. In a similar vein, as publisher Mark Smelzer, regional sales manager Randi Gewertz, and I joined Stuller marketing director Ashley Brown in New Orleans in early September for two decadent days of bike-riding, boozing, and dining on the eve of Stuller’s always-informative Bridge Conference in Lafayette, La., the threat posed by wearable tech was all but forgotten. We were too busy living.

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Tucson GJX 1108 Las Vegas JCK B5456

510 W. 6th St., #728 Los Angeles, CA 90014 | t. 213.239.6767 | f. 213.239.6768 | www.andejewelry.com

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

Greetings from my ﬂight home to New York City from Louisiana! I’ve just completed my annual visit to Stuller’s headquarters in Lafayette, to meet with the company’s marketing team and attend a session of their annual Bridge Conference. As always, the conference focused on the massive changes in experiential retailing, social media, custom design, and fashion tastes and how the independent retailer can meet these challenges head-on. I always enjoy sitting in a room full of independent retailers, as they make up our core audience whom we do our best throughout the year to entertain and inform. Attending the conference gives me great appreciation for both their challenges and their love of the business and of jewelry. Prior to the conference, I joined our editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky, our regional sales manager Randi Gewertz, and Stuller’s executive director of marketing Ashley Brown on a two-day, one-night New Orleans crawl. What a blast! What a town! In addition to amazing food—we enjoyed outstanding meals at Domenica, Pêche Seafood Grill, and Mr. B’s Bistro—and amazing music (jazz, blues, and brass bands everywhere), the highlight of the trip was a two-hour bike tour through two of New Orleans’ funkiest bohemian neighborhoods, Bywater and Faubourg Marigny. Our tour guide was a local bohème so committed to a true, old-school New Orleans lifestyle that he lives without air conditioning, using his classic New Orleans “shotgun” house to create a tunnel breeze and block the sun with its shutters! We learned so much about this fascinating town (truly set apart from the rest of America in its history and culture) that our heads hurt. Once again, I was struck by what a phenomenal country we live in and how lucky we are to be part of an industry that takes us from one corner to another. Many, many thanks to Ashley for arranging the tour, choosing the restaurants, and showing us some true Southern hospitality! Speaking of the South, the month before saw the SJTA Atlanta Jewelry Show. As I’ve written here before, I truly enjoy attending this show each year, as it is a smaller, more intimate event that allows for good conversations and the opportunity to catch up with friends. A highlight of this year’s show was a fun dinner with regional sales manager Bobbie Hamburg, and our dear friends from Sterling Reputation, Steve Berkowitz, Lisa Blumetti, and Pearl Woei. You can’t deny the power of good food and good friends. Next up is Hong Kong…see you there!

MARK SMELZER Publisher

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Randi Gewertz, Ashley Brown, Victoria Gomelsky, and I hit the ground riding in New Orleans.

SMELZER PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL FALCO. BIKE RIDE: JAMES S. SULLIVAN.

The Good Life in The Big Easy

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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True colors.

NATURAL OPPORTUNITY.

Chic. Vibrant. Unique. Fashionable. Natural color diamonds from Rio Tinto offer a world of fresh jewelry design possibilities. Natural colors = a spectrum of new opportunities for you. To learn more about how Rio Tinto can help you bring this exciting trend to market, contact a US representative at 646.429.1624. diamondswithastory.com

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THE INDUSTRY R FO AUTHORITY

TH H E N EW FACE E O F B EL L A IR T IME With triple keystone margins and selective distribution, let us show you how Belair & Private Label can make a difference in your bottom line. Get started with as few as 24 assorted watches.

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY Mark Smelzer Publisher 646-783-3788 msmelzer@jckonline.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief Melissa Rose Bernardo Managing Editor

Donna Borrelli Associate Publisher 646-783-3756 dborrelli@jckonline.com

E D ITORIAL Rob Bates, News Director rbates@jckonline.com

U.S. A D V E R T I S I N G

Jennifer Heebner, Senior Editor jheebner@jckonline.com

New York City/CT Bill Furman, Group Sales Director 228 East 45th Street, Suite 701, New York, NY 10017 646-783-3753, bfurman@jckonline.com

Emili Vesilind, Senior Editor evesilind@jckonline.com Logan Sachon, Social Media Journalist lsachon@jckonline.com

New York City/AR/LA/NJ/PA Randi Gewertz, Regional Manager 800-887-3905, fax 646-783-3771 rgewertz@jckonline.com

Lori White, Digital Copy Editor

CON TR IB UTIN G

AZ/CA/CO/HI/ID/MT/NM/NV/OR/UT/WA/WY/Mexico Robin Lutin, Regional Manager 310-474-9610, fax 310-475-3249 rlutin@jckonline.com

Tony and Leanne Argyle, Amanda Baltazar, Aubry Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arminio, Ari Karpel, Kristin Luna, Brooke Magnaghi, Rachel S. Peters, Stuart Robertson, Michael Schechter, Nancy Sidewater, Whitney Sielaff, Martha C. White, Kristin Young

ART +P RODUC T ION

AL/DE/FL/GA/IA/IL/IN/KS/KY/MA/MD/ME/MI/ MN/MO/MS/NC/ND/NE/NH/NJ/OH/OK/ RI/SC/SD/TN/TX/VA/VT/WI/WV/Canada/Puerto Rico Bobbie Hamburg, Regional Manager 610-664-7310, fax 610-664-8819 bhamburg@jckonline.com

Lance Pettiford Senior Art Director

Megan Manning, Senior Marketing Manager 202-530-8063, mmanning@jckonline.com

Leah A. Rudolfo Photo Editor

Marci H. Gelb, Administrative/Marketing Assistant 646-783-3823, mgelb@jckonline.com

Kim Corrigan Project Manager

D I G I TA L

Sharon Congdon Copy Editor

Kristen Mirto, Group Manager of Product Sales 203-840-5605, kmirto@reedexpo.com

Brenda Waugh Production Artist

A D

Scott Bolgiano Manager, Digital Magazines and Production Technology

HAND D SE E T GE E NU U INE WHIT T E TOPA AZ

SA LES

PRO DUC T I O N

Tommy Dingus, Ad Traffic Manager Julie Sheridan, Production Coordinator 646-783-3759, jsheridan@jckonline.com

Tim Kline Production Technology and Imaging Specialist

C I RC U LAT I O N

Model: A4960W-LIT / Triple Keystone: $480.00 5 ATM, Stainless steel case & bracelet, Moonphase multi-function, Genuine sapphire crystal

Alyssa Sherman, Audience Development Manager asherman@mcmurrytmg.com Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions)

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Toll Free: 1.800.223.1654 See us at the following shows: ASI Chicago, ASI Orlando, IJO, JCK Las Vegas (Plumb Club), PPAI Las Vegas, RJO and SJTA Atlanta

Matthew Petersen, Chief Executive Officer Kim Caviness, Chief Content Officer Connie Otto, SVP, Content Operations Andrew Hanelly, SVP, Strategy Rebecca Loveridge, VP, Marketing Chris Dornfeld, VP, Engineering Jane Ottenberg, Cofounder

BEL AIR TIME CORPOR ATION 1995 Swarthmore Avenue, Lakewood, NJ 08701 Phone: 732.905.0100 Fax: 732.367.3215

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY Yancy Weinrich Group Vice President JCK 646-783-3761 (NY), 203-840-5481 (CT) yweinrich@reedexpo.com

IN T E RN ATION AL

Thailand: Piengpit Magnuan and Kornsawan Pat Naruenartsenie Export Division, Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakom Tower, 100/68-69 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 66-2-686-7254, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-86-085-4040, piengpit.magn@reedtradex.co.th cell 66-81-626-1359, kornsawan.naru@reedtradex.co.th China/Hong Kong/Indonesia/Japan/ Korea/Malaysia/Philippines/ Singapore/Taiwan/Vietnam: Quentin Chan Leading Media Ltd., Room 1604, Hart Avenue Plaza 5-9 Hart Avenue, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, HK 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

Brazil/Europe/Middle East: Mirek Kraczkowski UL. SKIERNIEWICKA 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com India: Kaushal Shah 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M.Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011. Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com Israel: Itzchak Arikha P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 idp@netvision.net.il

JC K

. . . Inspired Design

A DV E RT I S I N G

L AS

John Tierney, Industry Vice President 203-840-5470 fax 203-840-9470 jtierney@reedexpo.com Erin Grote, Portfolio Sales Director 203-840-5685 egrote@reedexpo.com Shelly Hill, Manager, Strategic Accounts LUXURY: companies beginning with the letters A–J JCK: Bridal; Shorelines & Bayside Finished Jewelry (companies: G, M, N, O) India, Korea 203-840-5395 shill@reedexpo.com Lars Parker-Myers, Manager, Strategic Accounts LUXURY: companies beginning with the letters K–Z JCK: Design Center; Watches; Bayside Lobby; Plumb Club; Prestige; Hong Kong; VICENZAORO Italian Club; Turkey, Germany, Spain, United Kingdom, Italy, Brazil, France, South Africa 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedexpo.com

JC K

V EGA S Lauren Laramore, Director of Marketing 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedexpo.com Marni Vinci, Sales Executive JCK: Silver; ETS; Giftware & Tableware; Pearl; Shorelines & Bayside Finished Jewelry (companies: K, U–Z); Japan 203-840-5330 mvinci@reedexpo.com Kellie Ryan Ouimette, Sales Executive JCK: Fashion; Shorelines & Bayside Finished Jewelry (companies: A, B, C, D, H, L, T); Mexico 203-840-5439 kouimette@reedexpo.com Jessica Goldkopf, Sales Executive JCK: Diamond Plaza, Shorelines & Bayside Finished Jewelry (companies: E, F, I, J, P, Q, R, S); Israel, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore, Lebanon, Poland, Mauritius, Bahrain, Indonesia 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedexpo.com

TUC SO N

Susan Ritzer, Sales Executive 203-840-5469 sritzer@reedexpo.com

LUXURY

EV E N TS

LUXURY, Elite Enclave, Privé, Swiss Watch Desiree Hanson, Event Director 203-840-5651 dhanson@reedexpo.com Shelly Hill, Manager, Strategic Accounts Companies beginning with the letters A–J 203-840-5395 shill@reedexpo.com HAT YOU W

SAV

Itzchak Arikha, Publisher P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 idp@netvision.net.il

D I A MO N DS REC

YOR K

N E W

PLE

Centurion South Beach October 12–14

Lars Parker-Myers, Manager, Strategic Accounts 203-840-5808 Companies beginning with the letters K–Z lparkermyers@reedexpo.com

YCLE

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;I really didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect to do the amount of sales that we did. It was done far better than I ever thought it could be done.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Roger George, Sidney S. George Jewelers, Thibodaux, LA

Sidney S. George Jewelers Sometimes using Wilkerson to help with a business transition

brother used to work for a jewelry store in Tucson that used Wilkerson

becomes a family tradition.

when it closed. They both gave us tremendous reports.â&#x20AC;?

Jimmy

George

and

Roger

George

Sidney

George

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re glad they took their relativesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; advice. â&#x20AC;&#x153;As far as advertising

Jewelers in Thibodaux, Louisiana, recently decided it was time

and marketing, Wilkerson exceeded my expectations,â&#x20AC;? Roger said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I

to retire. Their business, founded in 1895 by their grandfather,

really didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect to do the amount of sales that we did. It was done

had a good run for several generations. But when they decided

far better than I ever thought it could be done. I can say that Wilkerson

to close, the brothers didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to go far to get the name

is number one on my list. I would recommend them to anybody.â&#x20AC;?

of a company that could help. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My uncle closed his store with Wilkerson,â&#x20AC;? Jimmy said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;And my oldest

Does Jimmy share his brotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feelings about Wilkerson? You bet! â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s another company in this country that could do what Wilkerson did for us,â&#x20AC;? he said.

8JMLFSTPO JT B QSPGFTTJPOBM KFXFMSZ DPOTVMUBOU m SN XJUI JOEVTUSZ experts who come along to help with a transition â&#x20AC;&#x201D; whether retiring, The Experts in Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

24-27 Masthead.indd 27

going out of business, or moving. With more than 50 employees dedicated to a storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success, Wilkerson is an expert at running sales and NBYJNJ[JOH QSPm U

9/17/14 2:31 PM

ONLINE.COM Next month’s “Your Store” issue asks ﬁve retailers—a boutique owner, a technology evangelist, a Midwestern luxury leader, a diamond specialist, and a fourth-generation owner of a venerable jewelry business—to spill their secrets for a sparkling holiday season and a brilliant new year. r. Plu Plus: Beads are nice, but selling more sophisticated sophisticate silver styles is better. We persuade a few sale sales pros to reveal the secrets of upselling the white metal.

BLACK MAGIC WOMAN N Model Marissa Irwin was the ultimate lady ady of luxury at our October holiday jewelry–themed ed cover shoot. Bedecked in diamond-dusted hand bracelets, one-of-a-kind jade earrings, luscious cocktail rings, and fringe-like gold shoulderdusters—all topped by a sleek blond chignon— she was the perfect embodiment of today’s bold, sophisticated, and luxury-obsessed woman. May every retailer have a dozen shoppers like her!

Sterling silver bracelet with lapis bracelet and CZ halos; $250; ELLE Time & Jewelr Jewelry, jewelry.com NYC; 888-507-ELLE; ellejewelry.com

JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS: DON’T FORGET!

2014 VOTING GUIDE Retailers, vote for your favorite designs online Nov. 2 through Dec. 31! jewelers ch oiceawa rds .co m

Voting on the Jewelers’ Choice Awards begins Nov. 3 at jewelerschoiceawards.com. When you receive the voting guide enclosed with your November issue, start thinking about which design deserves the grand prize (and a spot on the cover of JCK’s March 2015 issue!).

OOPS! In the “Jewels for Love” feature on page S25 of the bridal supplement that accompanied our September issue, we mistakenly listed the wrong company name and URL for an Edwardian brooch. It should be Bernard Nacht & Co. at bernardnacht.com. JCK regrets the error.

◆

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

28-29 JCKonline.indd 28

MARKET EDITOR: JENNIFER HEEBNER. MAKEUP BY KUMIKO HIROSE AT LVA ARTISTS. HAIR BY MICHAEL MORENO AT LVA ARTISTS. MANICURE BY JOI OFFUTT FOR PAINTBOX. BLACK JACKET: ZARA. FUSION EARRINGS IN 18K GOLD WITH EMERALDS AND DIAMONDS, $7,200, BHANSALI, LOS ANGELES, 213-623-8483, BHANSALIJEWELRY.COM; NECKLACE IN SILVER WITH DIAMONDS, $4,250, DAVID YURMAN, NYC, 212-752-4255, DAVIDYURMAN.COM; RING-TO-WRIST PIECE IN 18K GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $63,450, NORMAN COVAN, LOS ANGELES, 888-977-9007, NORMANCOVAN.COM; BRANDON@ RING IN PLATINUM AND 18K GOLD WITH YELLOW DIAMOND AND COLORLESS DIAMONDS, PRICE ON REQUEST, DAVID MOR, GREAT NECK, N.Y., 516-498-3833, BRANDON@DAVIDMORNY.COM

COMING IN NOVEMBER

IRWIN PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE SOYEZ-BERNARD, STYLING BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI

9/17/14 2:32 PM

2,000+ LUXURY RETAIL PARTNERS

1 FINANCING SOLUTIONS PROVIDER Synchrony Financial, formerly GE Capital Retail Finance, is bringing new meaning to the word partnership. We offer credit and financing solutions to our partnersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; customers including small and independent retailers like Jewelers of America members. With over 80 years of retail heritage, we have the products, services and industry expertise to help our partners improve customer loyalty and increase average transaction sizes. Find out what Synchrony Financial can do for your luxury business at synchronybusiness.com/luxury or 1-855-433-3772. Engage with us.

Banking. Loyalty. Analytics. *Ring courtesy of Martin Flyer ÂŠ2014 Synchrony Financial

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9/17/14 2:32 PM

SOCIAL DIARY Cajun Nice

◆

SEPT. 7–9 Angie Warren from the Gold Mine Fine Jewelry and Gifts in Hudson, N.C., sits in on an educational session.

SEPT. 7–9 Steven Domingue, Stuller’s director of e-commerce, leads a session on SEO strategies. Hint: Don’t overlook the importance of Google+!

SEPT. 7–9 As Don Sukach from D&D Jewelers in Sycamore, Ill., has undoubtedly learned, attending a Bridge Conference leads to copious note-taking.

SEPT. 7–9 Alex Clement, Stuller’s strategic projects business manager, with fellow presenter Jennifer Whitesell, bridal assistant product manager

SEPT. 7–9 Doug Doggett Jewelers’ Kim Odom, Stuller’s Angie Ruiz, Doug Doggett Jewelers’ Deanna Millican, and Stuller’s Jearayne Mehal

SEPT. 7–9 Ken Brenham and Joyce Hill of Brenham Jewelers in East Tawas, Mich., with Stuller’s Lezia Boudreaux, a customer relationship specialist.

SEPT. 7–9 Stuller’s Julia Champagne (l.) and Ernest Benjamin (r.) ﬂank Harry and Eva Lowenstein of Affinity & Co. Jewelers in Huntington Beach, Calif.

SEPT. 7–9 Corder’s Jewelers’ H.E. “Beaver” Corder II, Stuller’s Shelly Landry, Gloria’s Jewelry’s Edward Perez, and Stuller’s Jessica Berry

SEPT. 7–9 The Gem Gallery’s Erik Ottmann (c.) with Ken Alicea and Tom Silverburg from Jess Jewelry Inc. in Bradenton, Fla.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL MALDONADO AND JOHN ROWLAND

Stuller’s Bridge Conference draws retailers from all over the country to the company’s Lafayette, La., headquarters. Last month, JCK crashed the party.

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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ÂŠ 2014 DORA International

2014 JCK Platinum Innovation Award 4mm wide anniversary ring 35 round, full-cut Diamonds 1/2 carat total weight

Winner of the prestigious JCK Platinum Innovation Awards two years in a row, this collection is inspired by the delicate beauty of fine Venetian lace. The beauty and aura of Venice is captured in the exotic and intricate design of these breathtaking bands.

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dorarings.com

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EARRINGS AND RINGS BY VENAZIA HAUTE-COUTURE JEWELRY

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■ NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWSGEMS 5 HITS AND MISSES Most—but not all—of the industry’s biggest players reported healthy sales ﬁgures for the past quarter.

(RUNWAY) LEFT AND RIGHT: GIOVANNI GIANNONI/CONDE NAST. MIDDLE:RODIN BANICA/CONDE NAST. DART: HEMERA/THINKSTOCK.

Blue Nile’s revenue for the second quarter of ﬁscal 2014 fell 1.3 percent to $106.6 million.

2 Pandora’s revenue Bright and bejeweled at Ralph Lauren; stacks and stacks at Ohne Titel; the bead generation at Rag & Bone

Spring ’15 Fashion Week: Minimal & Modern BY VENESSA LAU

for the second quarter was $455 million, up 31 percent from the previous year.

3 Birks Group’s Let me entertain you, let me make you smile… That lyric from the classic musical Gypsy makes for a pretty apt battle cry for the spring 2015 collections in New York. It was one spectacle after another—and we don’t mean the clothes. Ralph Lauren had models “walking” on water in his 4D Polo Ralph Lauren show in Central Park. Gareth Pugh went multimedia with video, modern dancers, and an indoor tornado. There was Opening Ceremony’s one-act play–as–fashion presentation, penned by Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill and starring an impressive Hollywood contingent—Catherine Keener and Elle Fanning, among them. As far as jewelry, the loudest noise was how tech inﬁltrated the proceedings. At Opening Ceremony, past the

meta monologues and quick-witted barbs (and Fanning fabulously belting it out), you could spot the line’s new MICA (My Intelligent Communication Accessory) bracelets on the models. Rebecca Minkoff debuted her own wearable tech pieces; over at Rodarte and Diesel Black Gold, the girls wore ones by Motorola and Samsung, respectively. Then, of course, there was the big unveiling of Apple’s smartwatch mid–fashion week.

same-store sales for the ﬁrst quarter of ﬁscal 2015 increased by 4 percent (6 percent in the United States; 2 percent in Canada), while net sales declined $11.6 million from the prior year to $281.2 million.

4 Charles & Colvard’s sales for the second quarter rose 20 percent to $7.8 million, with U.S. sales increasing 35 percent to $7.3 million.

WATCHES IN BLOOM

5 Signet Jewelers saw a rise in

Whether it was kismet or savvy marketing, timepieces aplenty popped up during the shows, seen variously at Coach, Tome, Jonathan Simkhai, Kate Spade, and Ralph Lauren. “It’s cool to wear a watch again,” says Roseanne Morrison, fashion director at the Doneger Group.

second-quarter sales, primarily driven by its acquisition of Zale in May: Total sales rose 39 percent, to $1.23 billion (Zale accounted for $247.5 million of the $345.7 million bump). Same-store sales were up 4.8 percent.

jckonline.com JCK OCTOBER 2014 ◆ 33

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NEWSGEMS As Amanda Gizzi, director of public relations at Jewelers of America, remarks, with the spotlight on smartwatches, there’s momentum behind watches in general. Plus, they tap into the continuing athletic trend. Florals were another holdover trend. This season, however, we saw more bold and dramatic blooms, and the jewelry followed suit, most beautifully with Tome’s elegant metal collars—in collaboration with Lizzie Fortunato—with fresh orchids in the back.

PASTELS & PATTERNS

Prints and patterns were large-scale and graphic all around—big checks, wide stripes, strong geometrics— perhaps an inevitable trend in this Instagram age. Other messages included neutrals and army greens, light pastels (“Soft colors look fresh now,” Morrison says), and a mix-it-up blocking approach that’s less Mondrian and more collaging. Those looking to extend the trend to jewelry can follow the lead of

Your customers. 2XU ŵQDQFLQJ

Keeping it clean at Jason Wu

Ohne Titel’s Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, who styled models with stacks of bracelets in different hues and materials. The playful color combinations throughout—e.g., Derek Lam’s bright teal jacket with merlot pants—is a cue for jewelers to experiment. “Mixing gemstones will be a big trend for 2015,” Gizzi predicts.

retailers engage customers in new and more

We saw a major push for craftwork (fringe, crochet), plus a sister trend in African inﬂuences. According to Melissa Geiser, ﬁne jewelry buyer at Stanley Korshak, this includes fringe elements, layering, and materials like horn and wood “to make a natural statement with all the crochet.” Beaded necklaces (Rag & Bone), charms (Rodarte), and raw stones such as quartz and agate (Narciso Rodriguez) are relevant here, too.

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Yet in a season marked by a let’s-put-on-a-show attitude, the biggest trend was actually the quietest. Designers loosened up the silhouette, opting for softness and slouch. It’s a look that converged with another popular refrain: straightforward American sportswear, all ease and ﬂuid lines, with a glance to the ’70s, the It decade of spring 2015 so far. Think Lauren Hutton nonchalant chic, not hippie-heavy bohemian (one Tommy Hilﬁger show notwithstanding). The jewelry response? “More subtlety,” says Gizzi, “lighter chains, less chunky.… Nothing is too overly formed.” Geiser adds that the trend calls for more minimal and modern pieces. Just look to Jason Wu’s runway, which featured clean metal bangles and collar necklaces. (The prevailing shape across the catwalks, actually, was that simple circular swipe—from collar necklaces and hoop earrings.) Still, even in a season where baubles take a backseat—it’s about more intimate, everyday pieces—there were happy moments for the sparkle lovers. Case in point: Ralph Lauren, who had colorful jewels exuberantly spilling down (and embroidered on) tops. ■

repeat business for your jewelry store at SynchronyBusiness.com/luxury or 855-433-3772.

Built from GE heritage.

GIOVANNI GIANNONI/CONDE NAST

ON THE FRINGE

32-43 News Gems.indd 34

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A STORY OF CELEBRATION.

The Survivor Collection is a story of celebration inspired by two special friends–one battling cancer; the other supporting and championing her throughout her treatment. While searching for a meaningful gift of jewelry to commemorate her friend’s long journey and triumphant recovery, the friend found a one-size-fits all approach—pink ribbons that symbolized awareness,

OUR PARTNERS

but nothing that really celebrated the survivor.

Charles & Colvard has partnered with the Breast Cancer Research Fund and the Women Survivors

Her search ended when she joined forces with Charles & Colvard to create the Survivor Collection ™, an exclusive series of three-stone rings and pendants featuring two Forever Brilliant ® and one pink Moissanite gem(s). Designed specifically for cancer survivors, the significance of the gems and their placement

Alliance to promote breast cancer awareness, celebrate breast cancer survivors and effectively work to find a cure. Five percent of the proceeds go directly to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

tells the story of life before the diagnosis, the journey through treatment, and the magical moment when the doctor says you are clear.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE VISIT WWW.SURVIVOR-COLLECTION.COM

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NEWSGEMS

THE SCOOP NEWS ANALYSIS

N.Y. Bans Ivory Sales

The mystery: How much will Agatha Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewels earn at auction?

Agatha Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s JJewelry to Be Sold in London On Oct. 8 in London, Bonhams will auction two pieces from the estate of writer Agatha Christie. The 19th-century diamond brooch and three-stone diamond ring, which originally belonged to Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mother, were hidden in a locked strongbox in a travel trunk. A fan purchased them for about $165 in 2006, and did not open the box for four years. The gems are mentioned in Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s autobiography: â&#x20AC;&#x153;My motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s valuable jewellery consisted of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;my diamond buckle,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;my diamond crescent,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;my diamond engagement ring.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;? Bonhams estimates the broochâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s value at $10,000â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$13,500 and the ringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s at $5,000â&#x20AC;&#x201C;$8,400. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Logan Sachon

Virtually all New York ivory sales have been banned by a new law signed A Aug. 12 by Gov. Andrew Cuomo. The law, which took effect immediately, bans sales of elephant ivory, mammoth ivory, and rhino horn. There are exceptions: 100-year-old antiques composed of less than 20 percent elephant ivory with documented proof of provenance; musical instruments made pre-1975; elephant ivory where transfer of ownership is to a legal beneďŹ ciary of a trust or estate, or for education and scientiďŹ c purposes (e.g., to a museum). Most ďŹ rst infractions involve ďŹ nes, but selling pieces valued above $25,000 is now a Class D felony, with a penalty of up to seven years in prison. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;RB

â&#x20AC;˘ JIS Miami, #656 â&#x20AC;˘ JA NY, #1280 â&#x20AC;˘ JA NY Winter

Scott Kay is looking like the David Yurman alumni association. Kayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s company has been on a hiring spree, bringing on three Yurman veterans: â&#x20AC;˘ Susan Chandler, an experienced merchandiser who has worked at Yurman, Frederick Goldman, and Gemvara, has become chief merchandising officer. â&#x20AC;˘ John Croston, formerly Yurmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vice president of manufacturing, has been appointed chief supply chain officer. â&#x20AC;˘ Tom Kennedy, whose rĂŠsumĂŠ includes work for cosmetic companies and marketing agencies as well as consulting for Yurman, has been named chief commercial officer. The hires were announced by CEO David Minster, himself a Yurman veteran. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In order to achieve the growth targets to get to $500 million

Susan Chandler

plus in sales, you must hire executives who have been there before,â&#x20AC;? he said in a statement. â&#x20AC;&#x153;These are deeply experienced executives whom I have enjoyed working with in the past, and whom I am thrilled to be working with again.â&#x20AC;? Kay, who remains chairman of the company, said that the executives coming aboard will allow him to focus on designing and art. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;RB

TUSKS: MARION KAPLAN/ALAMY. PANDORA: PETER SCHOLEY/ALAMY.

Scott Kay Brings On Three Yurman Vets

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NEWSGEMS

THE SCOOP NEWS ANALYSIS

Pandora Buying Back Boutiques

Pandora is buying the 27 brand boutiques owned and operated by Hannoush Jewelers for $29 million. In a statement, Pandora CEO Allan Leighton said the Northeast region, where Hannoush is the biggest franchisee, is underperforming by not showing double-digit growth. Pandora will take over the stores later this year, after which they will be upgraded to its new Evolution concept. It plans to resell ﬁve of the stores to existing partners, whom it declined to name. Following the purchase, Pandora will directly own and operate 27 concept stores out of a total of 287 stores throughout the country. —RB

Diamond Council Courses to Be Taught in High Schools A new program from the Diamond Council of America aims to give high school juniors and seniors an education in jewelry—and hopefully draw a new generation into the industry. The DCA’s Jewelry Career Readiness Initiative lets high schools offer intro courses on diamonds, gemstones, and advanced jewelry sales. At the end of the class, the students receive DCA certiﬁcations, making them prime hiring prospects for local jewelers, according to Terry Chandler, president and CEO of the Nashville, Tenn.–based group. The program hopes to take advantage of a new trend in education, which stresses career-oriented classes that improve students’ employment prospects. The DCA already launched a pilot program at a high school in Woodstock, Ga., where four classes were offered. “I went to the school on the ﬁrst day,” Chandler says. “The kids weren’t

32-43 News Gems.indd 37

Terry Chandler (r.) congratulates DCA grad Jordan Brown.

negative, but they were high school kids. There wasn’t any great enthusiasm. I came back a year later, and I gave them their certiﬁcates, and they were nuts about the business. They were nuts about the product—and no longer intimidated to walk in a jewelry store.” Some 60 to 70 percent of the Woodstock students said they plan to apply for jobs with local jewelers, he adds. “One of the major issues in our business is we are getting gray,” Chandler says. “This will create a huge database of potential employees. And even if none of the students goes into the jewelry business, they will be predisposed to the product.” —RB

9/17/14 2:36 PM

NEWSGEMS

THE SCOOP NEWS ANALYSIS

Jewelry Crime Arrests Hit Record High

A dramatic jump in the arrests of criminals that prey on the jewelry business led industry-related crime to fall in the first half of the year, according to statistics compiled by the Jewelers’ Security Alliance. The overall number of reported crimes fell 13.4 percent to 641 in the year’s first half, from 740 in 2013, the lowest number in at least five years. At the same time, arrests climbed 77 percent in the first six months, to a record 374. “There is an unprecedented interest in jewelry

crime from law enforcement,” says JSA president John J. Kennedy. Total industry dollar losses fell only slightly, to $34 million, from $35.3 million the year before. “The criminals are being selective and choosing the higher-end stores,” Kennedy says. “They are not going after small, low-end stores.” Robberies, burglaries, and thefts all fell from the prior year, but off-premises crime was flat. One jeweler was killed in the first half of the year. Among the less positive trends Kennedy has seen is an increase in credit card fraud. Recently, three members of a con group were arrested, but only after they conned 100 jewelers. Now there are reports of a similar gang that has already ripped off three jewelers. “Jewelers have to be careful with in-store credit,” Kennedy warned. “Examine the credentials that are submitted very carefully.” Another disturbing trend: more jewelers firing guns. “Sometimes jewelers are taking the first shot,” he says. “It happened too frequently in the first half.” The JSA and law enforcement have always advised jewelers not to use firearms or have them in their stores. —RB

90% Share of sales that are conducted in brick-and-mortar stores, according to a new survey by A.T. Kearney

—DESIGNER LORRAINE SCHWARTZ ON KIM KARDASHIAN AND KANYE WEST’S DIAMOND EARRING–WEARING 15-MONTH-OLD DAUGHTER, NORTH WEST

BOTTOM LEFT: SBYTOVAMN/ISTOCK. RIGHT: BAUER-GRIFFIN/GETTY IMAGES.

Credit card fraud is on the rise, says the JSA.

“I’m happy to call her my youngest client.”

See us at JIS Miami Beach Booth DF-1

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L I G H T I N G

9/17/14 2:36 PM

NEWSGEMS COMINGS AND GOINGS >> Anna Martin, who oversaw diamond and jewelry lending at both Standard Chartered Bank and ABN AMRO, has joined GIA as senior vice president of global development. She will oversee GIA’s beneﬁciation efforts and scout out new business opportunities.

INDUSTRY & PEOPLE >> Diamond and gemstone jewelry wholesaler Color Merchants has added Rick Morris to its sales team. He will represent the southeast United States, including Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Mississippi, and Tennessee. >> Target has appointed its ﬁrst outsider as CEO: Brian Cornell, former CEO of PepsiCo Americas Foods. Cornell, who also served as president and CEO of Sam’s Club, will be company chairman as well. >> Bernadette McGovern Mack has been named executive director of the Women’s Jewelry Association. Mack has been the organization’s administrative coordinator for the past two years.

Anna Martin

>> Martin Hochbaum, who served as managing director of the Diamond Dealers Club of New York for 17 years, retired on July 31. David Lasher, who formerly was director of marketing and development for the DDC, now serves as managing director. >> Bulova Corp. has appointed Mary Beth Trypus executive vice president. She was previously senior vice president of sales and planning for the handbag division of the Jones Group Inc. >> Jewelers of America has appointed Karen Goracke of Borsheims Fine Jewelry and Mercedes Abramo of Cartier North America to its board of directors. >> Pearl manufacturer Mastoloni has named Chuck Zopﬁ sales associate for Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Arkansas, New Mexico, Colorado, and western Kansas. >> Bon-Ton Stores has appointed Kathryn Bufano, formerly president and chief merchandising officer of Belk Inc., as its new president and CEO. She replaces current CEO Brendan L. Hoffman, who decided not to renew his three-year employee agreement.

Bernadette McGovern Mack

COMPANIES >> Jewelry manufacturer Fuzion Creations has acquired designer Nina International. Fuzion CEO Maney Douek will head the new company. Nina CEO Moses Maya will serve as vice president of product development and e-commerce solutions.

FINANCIAL >> E-tailer BaubleBar has raised $10 million in a new round of ﬁnancing led by Burch Creative Capital.

ONLINE >> Blue Nile will debut an Arabic-language version of its site for its customers in the United Arab Emirates.

LABS >> The American Gem Society Laboratories will open a take-in window at the Brink’s office in Los Angeles.

PUBLICATIONS

Kathryn Bufano

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>> Condé Nast has sold Women’s Wear Daily, as well as fellow Fairchild Fashion Media titles such as M, to Penske Media. ■

9/17/14 2:36 PM

NEWSGEMS Up, Up, and Away Prices for fine natural colored gems have achieved incredible growth during the past few years. In the U.S. market, the one area that shows some weakness is calibrated goods. This category, which had been strong for some time, slowed as manufacturing moved out of the United States to overseas markets. Of the big three, emerald is particularly well positioned at the moment and has been for a few years now. Despite a significant increase in prices for fine Colombian emeralds, the gains haven’t been as dramatic as for certain other gems. Therefore, prices for fine emeralds still have room to climb. Keep in mind, however, that stones with moderate or greater levels of enhancement have not seen the price increases observed for natural and slightly enhanced material. Prices of very fine Burma (Mogok) ruby remain strong with supply extremely tight for sizes above 2 cts., and the trend will likely continue. Mogok has historically been worked on a small scale; today, however, some project this classic source will be exhausted within the next decade. Now that the deposit is being mined on a large scale, concerns are rising that the mountain will literally be bulldozed to the ground. Dramatic price increases are not limited to the big three. The pattern is repeated across much of the high-end natural gem market. Aquamarine, spinel, zircon, and many of the tourmalines have seen big increases. And then there is Paraiba tourmaline: Very fine Brazilian material of 1 ct. or larger runs tens of thousands of dollars per carat. Top-quality Paraiba in 3 ct.-plus sizes has asking prices of $40,000 per carat or more. Although prices have also increased for the best Mozambique Cuprian tourmaline, they have not come close to price levels for the finest Paraiba material.

GEM PRICING DIAMOND: 1 ct. Round Brilliant

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. Round

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

$7,735

$6,970

$6,130

$5,040

$3,200

$2,960

$2,430

$2,070

$6,480

$6,150

$5,600

$4,800

$3,050

$2,800

$2,300

$1,990

$5,600

$5,280

$5,000

$4,480

$2,525

$2,325

$1,970

$1,850

$5,040

$4,500

$4,200

$4,100

$2,100

$2,000

$1,825

$1,675

DIAMOND: 2 ct. Round Brilliant

DIAMOND: 2 ct. Princess Cut

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

$14,300

$12,400

$10,600

$8,700

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

$12,400

$10,900

$9,400

$8,580

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

$10,000

$8,820

$8,520

$7,280

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

$8,000

$7,390

$7,000

$6,390

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

TSAVORITE GARNET

RHODOLITE GARNET

Good

Fine

Good

Fine

1 to under 3 cts.

$525–$900

$900–$1,450

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$900–$1,400

$1,400–$2,000

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

SPHENE

IMPERIAL TOPAZ

Good

Fine

Good

Fine

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$125–$175

1 to under 3 cts.

$125–$250

$250–$500

3 to under 5 cts.

$90–$150

$150–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$200–$450

$450–$625

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms Commercial, Good, Fine, and Extra-Fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

THE RIGHT CHOICE

When it comes to jewelry, the choices are endless – princess or marquise, platinum or gold, cash or credit. By choosing TD Retail Card Services, you get a partner who can shape the right in-store credit card program to the needs and size of your business, giving your bottom line the attention it deserves. Whether an independent retailer perfect for our LJC Card or a national chain wanting a customized private-label program, TDRCS has your in-store financing. We approve more applications and grant higher limits, building your customer base and giving them more purchasing power – and that’s bigger transactions, better revenues and increased profits for you. • In-store financing for independent jewelry retailers • Powerful tools for higher sales and revenues • Smart solutions for any size business

Not just the right choice – the best choice.

Find out more at TDRCS.com/JCK or call 1-866-729-7072 EXT 3008

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yes!

and she said...

Over 30,000 Products To Choose From! Hoover & Strong offers over 30,000 products and services to meet all your jewelry needs. Choose from thousands of mill products, findings, diamonds and finished jewelry including new solitaires, halo settings, engagement rings, wedding and anniversary bands, earrings and pendants, all of which can be set with our diamonds or yours! And take advantage of our many jeweler services including Contract Casting, Eco-Friendly Refining, Stone Removal and Diamond Buying just to name a few!

Visit www.hooverandstrong.com to see our new products, or request a copy of our new 2015-2017 catalog. All Hoover & Strong products are Made in the USA from SCS Certiﬁed

MADE IN USA

Harmony® Recycled Precious Metals.

1.800.759.9997 www.Hoover AndStrong.com

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JCK SHOW & TELL EVENTS OPPORTUNITIES PROMOTIONS S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E CT I O N

JCK Brings Back the Heat as THE Buying Destination During Tucson Jewelry Week

FEBRUARY 2–7, 2015 | JW MARRIOTT STARR PASS RESORT & SPA JCKONLINE.COM/TUCSON JCK Tucson joins Tucson Jewelry Week, offering a unique and creative retailer experience at the serene, 5-star JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa. JCK Tucson provides industry buyers and sellers with access to some of the ﬁnest jewelry artisans and manufacturers displaying unique designs, colored gemstones, and one-of-a-kind handcrafted pieces. The casual, low-pressure business environment features a broad selection of price points, inviting all buyers to explore and discover

4 REASONS WHY JCK TUCSON IS A MUST-ATTEND EVENT:

LOW-PRESSURE ENVIRONMENT

UNIQUE, one-of-a-kind pieces you’ll see only at JCK Tucson

DAILY SHOW SPECIALS from 175 trusted JCK suppliers, manufacturers, and designers

EASY, COMPLIMENTARY TRANSPORTATION from downtown Tucson

something they can’t ﬁnd anywhere else. As the jewelry industry comes together in the desert, JCK Tucson will again prove to be one of the highlights of Tucson Jewelry Week.

with a broad selection of price points

JCK TUCSON PRODUCT PREVIEW Whether you’re looking to stock your inventory or simply buy a few special pieces, JCK Tucson is a great place for discovery and inspiration.

SHOLDT

ZSA ZSA JEWELS

ZINA STERLING SILVER

GEMS INTERNATIONAL

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON JCK TUCSON, PLEASE VISIT JCKONLINE.COM/TUCSON.

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KC DESIGNS everyday diamonds

800-552-3790 www.kcdesignsnyc.com

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■ OCT. 1–NOV. 2, 2014

THE CALENDAR U.S. Shows & Events Houston 301-294-1640 intergem.com

OCTOBER 3–5 Indianapolis Bead, Gem, Mineral & Jewelry Show

25–26

Indianapolis 540-384-6047 toteshows.com

Louisville, Ky. 770-739-0057 americanbeadshows.com

American Bead Show

Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers

25–27 Harrisonburg Bead, Gem, Mineral & Jewelry Show

Livonia, Mich. 601-879-8832 glwshows.com Del Mar, Calif. 503-252-8300 gemfaire.com International Gem & Jewelry Show

Columbus, Ohio 301-294-1640 intergem.com

4–5 American Bead Show

Chattanooga, Tenn. 770-739-0057 americanbeadshows.com Bead, Jewelry, Art, Craft & Antique Show

Havana, Fla. 866-667-3232 havanaextrav.com

10–11 Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers

West Springﬁeld, Mass. 601-879-8832 glwshows.com

Off to the bead races in Louisville Oct. 25–26!

10–12

12–14

20–21

Gem Faire

Centurion South Beach

Pleasanton, Calif. 503-252-8300 gemfaire.com

Miami Beach, Fla. 888-427-4697 centurionsouthbeach.com

International Watch & Jewelry Guild Show

Gem Faire

17–19

Sacramento, Calif. 503-252-8300 gemfaire.com

Gem Faire

21–22

Costa Mesa, Calif. 503-252-8300 gemfaire.com

Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers

Gem, Jewelry & Bead Show

Jacksonville, Fla. 504-265-8830 aksshow.com International Gem & Jewelry Show

Dallas 301-294-1640 intergem.com International Gem & Jewelry Show

San Mateo, Calif. 301-294-1640 intergem.com

11–12

DON’T FORGET! JCK Tucson Feb. 2–7 JCK Las Vegas May 29–June 1

◆

International Gem & Jewelry Show

Pittsburgh 301-294-1640 intergem.com International Gem & Jewelry Show

Scottsdale, Ariz. 301-294-1640 intergem.com

Charlotte, N.C. 770-739-0057 americanbeadshows.com

11–14 Jewelers International Showcase

Miami Beach, Fla. 561-998-0205, ext. 4 jisshow.com

New York City 888-562-4962 ja-newyork.com

31–Nov. 2 Gem Faire

Eugene, Ore. 503-252-8300 gemfaire.com International Gem & Jewelry Show

National Harbor, Md. 301-294-1640 intergem.com

International Shows & Events

Brooklyn, N.Y. 713-783-8188 iwjg.com

Istanbul: a gem of a city Oct. 16–19

Asheville, N.C. 601-879-8832 glwshows.com

24–26 Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers

Orlando, Fla. 601-879-8832 glwshows.com International Gem & Jewelry Show

OCTOBER 1–5 Junwex Moscow

Moscow 78-12-303-9876 eng.rjexpert.ru

2–4 Incheba Watches & Jewels Expo

October Birthstone

Prague 420-220-103-474 incheba.cz

OPAL

3–6

Once Upon a Crush ring with Australian opal and 0.72 ct. t.w. paraiba tourmaline in 18k white and 18k pink crushed gold; $18,700; Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry, Los Angeles; 323-954-7436; pamelafroman.com

Idar-Oberstein, Germany 49-6781-5687-2200 intergem.de

American Bead Show

JA New York

Intergem 2014

4–5 Vancouver Island Bead & Jewellery Show

Saanichton, British Columbia 250-213-9352 vibjs.ca

14–18 37th MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show

Sharjah, United Arab Emirates 97-16-577-0000 mideastjewellery.com

16–19 Istanbul Jewelry Show

Istanbul 90-212-5190719 ubmrotaforte.com

20–22 5th Tokyo Fashion Jewellery Expo

Tokyo 81-33-349-8519 ac-expo-autumn.jp/en

ISTOCK (2)

Gem Faire

Harrisonburg, Va. 540-384-6047 toteshows.com

26–28

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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■ FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOPTALK The Secrets of Service

BY EMILI VESILIND

WEB THERAPY

“The devil is in the details.” The famous idiom perfectly encapsulates the difference between good retailing and superior retailing. On any given day, hundreds of tiny elements—customer service, visual merchandising, and ambience—have to be ﬁring perfectly, and simultaneously, to optimize the in-store experience. Pristinely scrubbed, well-edited cases designed to entice your clientele are, of course, step one in nailing those many crucial particulars. But experts agree the most effective way to up your store’s game is by ﬁne-tuning your customer service procedures and practices. First, consider your store’s intimidation factor. Retail consultant and author Bob Phibbs believes that to successfully compete with online retailers, old-world formality in jewelry stores should be dispensed with immediately. “Lose the stodgy dress and manners of jewelry stores that are waiting there like they’re in Downton Abbey, ready to serve women in white gloves,” he says. “I think that can be very intimidating, especially to younger people.” Phibbs also recommends removing calculators from countertops, which he considers another outmoded retail hallmark. “Calculators make it look like you’re only there to make a deal.” And with online sales on the rise, modern consumers are used to getting what they want almost immediately, so evaluating how rapidly your staff serves customers is imperative. “Customers aren’t going to wait these days,” explains Phibbs. “Not

The latest retail books focus on reﬁning your online presence and practices.

◆

1 The Retailer’s Mobile Strategy Guide (Urban Airship) In this 25-page paperback, experts share tactics to help you build stronger relationships with mobile clients.

2 Digital Marketing:

when they can click on Blue Nile or any number of other online resources. They want it now.” So what’s the best way to deal with the Saturday afternoon rush? “You really want to be very aware that every customer needs to be talked to, and you need to shorten up the amount of time you use when you’re really busy,” says Phibbs. “Too many times we get hung up on ‘we can only wait on one person at a time’ in jewelry stores. I understand for security reasons why that’s important, but the speed of service has to change with the number of shoppers on the ﬂoor. On a Saturday, you can’t afford to spend an hour with each person. You’re going to have to touch everybody somehow.” To further distinguish your store from the competition, sales trainer and speaker Shane Decker recommends arming your staff with easy tools and practices that allow them to routinely

go above and beyond for shoppers. “Have refreshments—chocolate chip cookies, coffee, Coke,” he suggests. “Take it to them and ask which they would like. Now you’re teasing their senses with tastes and smells, so [the store] feels more like home.” Decker also recommends ﬁnishing repairs before the promised date, and having clients choose how they like to be contacted—by text, phone, or email. Another winning detail to adopt: Offer to clean jewelry on the spot, for free. Clients feel they’ve been given a gift, which instantly heightens goodwill toward your store and brand. Decker also suggests giving everyone a free bottle of cleaning solution— with the store’s branding printed on it. “Use it as a little advertising tool,” he advises. “And when people come in for batteries, have the batteries be free. The whole deal is to be better than your competition.” ■

3 The Social Media MBA Guide to ROI: How to Measure and Improve Your Return on Investment (Christer Holloman) Tap into the tools and techniques that measure social media metrics and performance indicators.

4 Marketplace 3.0: Rewriting the Rules of Borderless Business (Hiroshi Mikitani) The founder of e-commerce giant Rakuten describes his utopia: retail “ecosystems” pairing brick-and-mortar and e-tailers.

5 Create Your Own Online Store in a Weekend (Alannah Moore) Follow the easy-to-understand steps to creating a basic e-commerce site in this practical handbook.

TOP: HOLA IMAGES/ALAMY

Routinely going above and beyond is the way to connect.

A Practical Approach (Alan Charlesworth) This step-by-step guide to marketing online focuses on real-world solutions and is packed with cases and examples.

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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SHOPTALK

RETAIL DETAILS 5 QUESTIONS

Super Bolling The Colorado jeweler is making his mark with custom design and self-deprecating charm

Jeffery B Jewelers’ Jeffery Bolling

When you walk through your door, what do you like most about your store?

Because I’m a really geeky guy and I’ve been doing CAD for so long, we put my office in glass walls in the middle of the store. It’s unique for customers; they can see me in there designing, and I can always see the sales ﬂoor. We’re using Stuller’s CounterSketch Studio and Firestorm CAD—which is the program I learned on and have made every dime on. We have that custom design monitor on a wall near my son Christian’s office. We’re in your face with the high tech.

What is your single best moneysaving initiative?

Tk Tk

JEFFERY BOLLING JEFFERY B JEWELERS AURORA, COLO.

Owner jefferyb.com

“We’re only 4 years old. Of course, I have a long background in jewelry. People know me—I’m the only black guy in the industry!”

◆

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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was now able to say “yes” to a new man who had been asking for her hand. So I guess I’ll have another sale soon!

Very recently, a woman wanted to upgrade her diamond earrings. But when we were getting close to closing the deal, she hesitated… because she was considering trading in her wedding ring. Her husband had died ﬁve years prior, and she felt like giving up the ring would help her move on. But at that moment she was second-guessing that decision. I explained to her that trading in the ring made him a part of who she was going forward—not as her husband, but as her soul mate. She cried and thanked me for helping her make the decision. After the purchase, she told me she

What has been your most memorable sale?

We don’t have a phone line. We use RingCentral cloud phone system, which lets me text people, and people can chase me down anywhere. Also, it lets me see voicemails as texts, which is faster. We’re only 4 years old, and when you’re a new business, you’d better be available. Of course, I have a long background in jewelry. I was a regional manager at Zales, and a traveling sales rep for major brands. People know me—I’m the only black guy in the industry!

What was your ﬁnest hour in the realm of customer service?

What ambitious goal do you have for your store, and how will you achieve it?

Delivering two custom wedding bands in three days, made from the bangle the groom had given the bride 30 years ago when they were kids. The couple are American, but met in elementary school in Saudi Arabia years ago. Eventually they moved away from each other and married other people. Sadly, both of their spouses passed away. They reconnected on Facebook, and it turns out she had kept the solid gold bangle. I shaped parts of it into two rings.

My son Christian is starting at a master watchmaking school next week. Our goal is to make our own watch in-store. He’s done a great job with designing so far, and I told him he has to bring something to the table—Daddy ain’t gonna leave his business to a dummy! He’s only 19 and has really been stepping it up. When I look at a company like Shinola, I know we can do it. I want to use CAD to make the face and case, and my son will orchestrate the inside parts; he’s already working on watches. We’ll logo it and it will be our own. We’re very excited about that. —Emili Vesilind

PHOTOGRAPH BY ASHLEY DAVIS TILLY

9/17/14 2:39 PM

PROMOTION

FEATURED SHOWROOM PICKS The JCK Annual Directory is now online and more interactive than ever, with thousands of products from hundreds of the industry’s top companies. Check out these marvelous ﬁnds from JCK Marketplace’s Featured Showrooms. Like what you see? Scan the QR codes with your mobile phone, or search for them at JCKonline.com/marketplace.

Omi Privé Ruby and Diamond Ring A dramatic double halo of rubies and diamonds frames the round ruby center of Omi Privé’s 18k yellow gold ring.

Scan this QR code to view the product on JCK Marketplace Search Omi Privé on JCKonline.com/marketplace

Dazzlers Rose Drop Earrings A playful pattern of roses adorns Dazzlers’ round drop earrings.

Rahaminov Diamonds Rose-Cut Cuff Individually bezel-set, rose-cut diamonds cluster on this mixed-shape cuff from Rahaminov Diamonds.

Scan this QR code to view the product on JCK Marketplace

Search Dazzlers on JCKonline.com/marketplace

Search Rahaminov Diamonds on JCKonline.com/marketplace

Charming Silver Stacking Bracelet Pavé-set CZ decorates both ends of this gold-plated stacking bracelet from Charming Silver.

Stuller Morganite and Diamond Stud Earrings Scalloped frames set with diamonds add a vintage vibe to Stuller’s fanciful morganite stud earrings.

Scan this QR code to view the product on JCK Marketplace

Search Charming Silver on JCKonline.com/marketplace

Search Stuller on JCKonline.com/marketplace

To sign up for your Featured Showroom, contact Kristen Mirto at (203) 840-5605.

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SHOPTALK

TECH SUPPORT CYBER SAVVY

Reality Show A host of new apps gives online jewelry shoppers a virtual try-on Getting jewelry onto shoppers is a highly effective sales tactic. But how can retailers capitalize on the try-on factor when their clients are shopping online? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a conundrum that Blue Nile and BaubleBar have dealt with by, well, opening brick-and-mortar locations. But weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re at the door of the mobile shopping revolution. According to Statista, 215 million consumers are expected to shop online by 2018. With those numbers, it makes sense to search for a solution. A cadre of mobile apps and website add-ons that harness augmented reality (AR) technology can now give consumers a nifty way to visualize how items might look when worn. Apps such as TryItOn Jewelry and Virtual Try On Jewellery allow shoppers to try on items uploaded by local retailers and major manufacturers. Augmente TechStudio is behind a handful of slick new try-on jewelry apps commissioned by manufacturers including Dabakarov and Jeff Cooper. The Texas- and India-based AR company is currently at work on AR apps for Kay Jewelers and Neiman Marcus. We asked national sales manager and marketing vice president George Kalergis to dish on the app and AR technology. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Emili Vesilind The TryItOn Jewelry app gives new meaning to the relďŹ e (ring + selďŹ e).

Exceptional Gems from Sri Lanka

ON A BASIC LEVEL, WHAT DO AUGMENTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AR APPS DO? We convert printed data to its digital form, then we convert it into something else. We scanned an issue of JCK to turn it into a [digital] catalog. So you can take your iPad and scan that cover of JCK, and the whole issue comes up. Then you can page through with your hands, tap on a jewelry item, and a couple of icons come up. You tap â&#x20AC;&#x153;Try On,â&#x20AC;? and you can try that item on any of the models in the magazine.Â

YOU CAN ALSO TRY ON AN ITEM YOURSELF, RIGHT? Yes. You have to get the relative size right. We give users a silhouette that they ďŹ t their face into. You take a picture of yourself and upload it. Then you [use your ďŹ nger] to move your face over the silhouette.

WHAT OTHER FEATURES ARE IMPORTANT IN AN AR APP? 510 West Sixth Street, Suite 312 Los Angeles, CA 90014 7HO Â&#x2021; )D[ KKGI@sbcglobal.net www.facebook.com/kkgigem

You have social media sharing thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s instant. The most important feature for retailers is the capture of analytic data. Right now weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re doing an app for Kay Jewelersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Charmed Memories, and they will be able to see what charms are being looked at the most, which ones are being tried on, and how long people are looking at certain things.

HOW CAN STORES TAKE ADVANTAGE OF AR APPS?

GJX/TUCSON 2015 BOOTH # 409/509

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In the case of the Dabakarov app, the brand is giving its 200 top stores an iPad that has its proprietary app loaded onto it. Also, have shoppers download the app when theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the store. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sending them home with 500 pieces of your jewelry to try on.

9/17/14 2:39 PM

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SHOPTALK

IT’S ALL RELATIVE TWO GENERATIONS TRADE VIEWS

Koll Comfort It’s creating—not necessarily selling—that drives the men behind Charles Koll Jewellers ROLE PLAYING

Tk Charles Koll Jewellers’ Malcolm and Richard Koll

MALCOLM KOLL CHARLES KOLL JEWELLERS

San Diego 56, second generation

RICHARD KOLL CHARLES KOLL JEWELLERS

San Diego 27, third generation

Malcolm Koll, co-owner of Charles Koll Jewellers in San Diego, never guessed his youngest son, Richard, would join the family business, which was founded in South Africa in 1946. Actually, “he swore up and down he would never do it,” recalls the retailer, who operates the shop with jewelry designer David Armstrong, head of the design workshop for the store’s sizable custom business. But the South African–born retailer, who helped his father, Charles Koll, move the business from Pretoria, South Africa, to San Diego in 1991, said Richard’s 2011 arrival in the shop was “perfect timing.” Malcolm explains: “When I joined my dad in the business [in 1977], we were strictly a retail store in South Africa. I was anxious to start manufacturing. Richard came along when it was clear that the company needed to be run like a real business and not

◆

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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a design studio.” Richard, a graduate of the University of Colorado–Boulder with a degree in business, decided to join the company after a prolonged trip to South Africa, where he connected with far-ﬂung family members and did some soul-searching. Like Malcolm, it was fabrication—not retailing—that drew him to the industry. “Jewelry was never an interest for me,” he says. “The reason I love [what I do] so much is that we make it.” —Emili Vesilind

Richard: My title is general manager, so I wear a lot of hats. I try to create efficiencies and promote communications. I’m currently taking photos for the website, helping people with clients.… But really I try to stay off the sales floor. I’m more supporting the sales floor and making sure all the pieces talk to each other. I’ve always run my own businesses. I had a painting company, a deck refinishing company; I’ve always been an entrepreneur. When I came on, I was open to everything. Like my dad, I love the design side of jewelry. We carry Hearts On Fire and I think it’s a great product—but my heart is in our brand. Malcolm: David is focused on CAD and the workshop side. Richard is focused on general management and—more and more—on accounting. And I just buzz around and have fun. I kind of grew up in the business and assumed that it was what I was going to do when I got older.

PERSONALITY PLUS Richard: Malcolm is a Microsoft Excel whiz. He’s better than I’ve ever been at it. His right and left brain work really well together. Sometimes he’ll be in left-brain mode, other times he’s thinking broad-spectrum. He has that ability, which is very cool. Malcolm: Richard is 27 going on 40. He’s a quick learner and is brutally honest. The ﬁrst thing I did with him was give him free rein to do whatever he chooses. When he goofs up he’s careful to say, “I goofed up.” I learned when he was young that if you ask him a question, you’re going to get an honest answer. So you have to be careful what you ask. Richard: My dad is very much a thinker. He’s a visionary and he’s rebranded the way we sell diamonds. And I am very much an implementer. So it works well because he has a vision and I can help implement it.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS GILES

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SHOPTALK

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ALL RELATIVE TWO GENERATIONS TRADE VIEWS

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TEAM BUILDER Malcolm: Richardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a serious people person. He understands delegation better than I ever have. He recognized that putting the right people in the store is the only way to grow this thing. Richard: I came into the store and made some good hires, and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re making us all a little better.â&#x20AC;Ś Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve delegated [buying] to people weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve hired, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something my dad used to do. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m really trying to delegate to great employees. I trust their abilities, and I believe they do a better job than we wouldâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re incredibly talented people.

SAGE WORDS

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Richard: For people coming into their familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business, I would say make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not stepping on each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s toes. Have clearly deďŹ ned roles, and know whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in charge of what. And communicate. I sit next to my dad all day, and we still have to work on our communication. We disagree on stuff, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all healthy. We have

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always run my own businesses. I had a painting company, a deck reďŹ nishing company; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been an entrepreneur. When I came on, I was open to everything.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;RICHARD KOLL a meeting once a week on Thursdays where we have directors of each of the departments present. A lot of times it can get heated, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always helpful. Malcolm: Either have total trust in the person whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coming in, or you treat them like an employee. Themâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the options. You have to allow them to make mistakes.

MUTUAL ADMIRATION Richard: Malcolm does a really good job of giving me space. I

truly think my dad has a good way of teaching; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really handsoff. So though I deďŹ nitely feel pressure, I know itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s okay to make mistakes as long as I learn from them. I have my own plans for expansion, and I think putting in a good team to make us bigger and better is where my head is. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m lucky in the sense that I stand really tall because I get to stand on the shoulders of my grandfather and father. Malcolm: I think a solid understanding of marketing to his generationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the texting and social mediaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Richardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seriously got his head around that. To grow, you need to grow with the generation thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coming up behind you. I know I would not be qualiďŹ ed to deal with that, and he deďŹ nitely is. I belong to a local group thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sâ&#x20AC;Ś kind of like the Skulls but more generic, for business [leaders]. Richard was invited to come, and he told them his main goal was â&#x20AC;&#x153;to make my dad redundant.â&#x20AC;? I thought that was so great. â&#x2013;

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SHOPTALK

VIEW FROM THE TOP LESSONS IN LEADERSHIP

Watch and Learn For Patek Philippe USA president Larry Pettinelli, “the brand is ﬁrst and foremost” This month, high-end Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe is staging a big to-do in Geneva, where it will introduce a much-anticipated commemorative collection in honor of its 175th anniversary. Larry Pettinelli has been with the company for 26 of those years, including serving as president of the brand’s U.S. division since 2007. (He started as its West Coast sales rep.) Here, Pettinelli talks with JCK about his path to the top, how the company came up with its famous slogan, and whether Patek will ever make a smartwatch. —Rob Bates

LARRY PETTINELLI PRESIDENT, PATEK PHILIPPE USA

New York City

“People who come out of college want a meteoric rise to the top. The more I stayed, the more I realized how much I didn’t know. It took me until my early 40s to realize that.”

Can you point to any books that guide your management philosophy? It’s not that I don’t read those books or agree with some of their philosophies. But this is kind of an old-fashioned company—in the good sense. When I got here I was taught little by little the philosophy of Patek Philippe and the Stern family [owners since 1932]. It’s a longterm vision, about trying to assemble the best team and build trust with retailers and move forward long-term. I was lucky; I learned from two [past presidents] who were very good at different things. Werner Sonn was a master salesman and knew how to present the brand image. Hank Edelman was really good at how to run a distributorship and how to manage people. Why was Edelman so successful at managing employees? The reality is you get a lot of different types of people, and different people are motivated in different ways. Hank was always one to sit down with employees and his door was always open. People would come in and tell him about their children’s soccer match and how their child got an A on a paper. He really cared about people, and you really have

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to care about them—otherwise there is no loyalty. You can pay people, but you don’t get the best out of them just by throwing money at them. Werner always said the sales will come if you make a good product. The retailers knew that Werner would be coming back for the next 20 years, so if he sold them a bill of goods he would have to look at that in the case for the next 20 years. How do you ﬁnd the right people? You get a visceral response when you meet somebody. Do you like the person enough to jump in the trench with them? You want them to be a good human being and to be smart. And while we try not to scare people off, we do want them to say if they are willing to be here for the next eight or 10 years, because otherwise we would rather not start the process of training. It’s two to three years before people really understand the brand. How do you make sure people stay loyal to the company? You have to do all the things that you would want. You have to help them on the health care side. You need a good pension plan and salary. I think those

kind of things take you to the next level, where people say, even if they have a bad day and maybe everything is not 100 percent perfect every day of the week, they want to stay. Is there a principle that guides you as a manager? I try to surround myself with the smartest people and let them do what they do best. So I give them the rope and let them run with it. I don’t think anyone here is afraid to speak their mind, and I think that makes it easier. As president, you wear a lot of hats. How do you handle it all? At the beginning of each day, I take a legal pad and make a to-do list. Of course, that gets blown out of the water by 10 a.m. But I ﬁgure if I can accomplish the things I need to accomplish, then I can do things like put out ﬁres. For years, your company has used the slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation.” How did that come about? I remember it really well. We were looking for a new campaign and we had put out a bid to agencies. The guidelines were to come back with something that is real emotional and hits at the heart of Patek Philippe. The head of the Leagas Delaney agency started interviewing Patek Philippe collectors. And after a while, they all told him the same thing: They want something to hand to their grandchildren. So the agency said, “Let’s put that down on paper.” The slogan really hit at the heart of Patek Philippe. I don’t know the normal shelf life of a tagline, but we launched that sometime in the 1990s and every few years Geneva asks, “Should we change it?” But then they decide it still is very much on point.

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SHOPTALK

VIEW FROM THE TOP LESSONS IN LEADERSHIP

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Ref. 5990/1A Men’s Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph in stainless steel with black gradated dial and dual time zone mechanism; $57,300; Patek Philippe, NYC; 212218-1272; patek.com

You rose to the top of this division. Any secret to your success? Patience. People who come out of college want a meteoric rise to the top. I had great people mentoring me and the more I stayed, the more I realized how much I didn’t know. It took me until my early 40s to realize that; when you are young, you think you know everything. Patience and persistence. You can outwork people, but a lot of people work hard and in the end it’s a marathon. How does Patek Philippe keep up its brand image, given its history? I am an employee of the Sterns. The brand is ﬁrst and foremost. My job is to manage the strategy the Sterns set forth. The good news is the strategy

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doesn’t change much. It’s always: Don’t do anything trendy, and be about inherent value. This is a slow-moving company in a lot of ways. They don’t want to make a lot of mistakes. It’s a very thoughtful and stable direction, and that is what makes it work. We don’t go for trends. We could easily have made 45 mm watches. There is talk about smartwatches, and some companies are going to move on that and integrate watches with cellphones and all sorts of gadgets. That is not our business. We want to make watches people will wear 100 years from now. I can’t imagine anyone getting a tech item that will be obsolete six months from now and handing that down to their grandchild. ■

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SHOPTALK Joseph Keith 2439 Times Blvd., Houston Joseph Keith Ronquillo started young. By age 15, he’d learned to silversmith at his father’s downtown Houston store. By 17, Ronquillo, a third-generation jeweler and ﬁrstgeneration American, decided to design his own line and open his own store. Ten years later, he did—in Rice Village, Houston’s tree-shaded pedestrian shopping center known for its independent retailers and strategic location near the world’s largest medical center and prestigious Rice University. The 1,280-square-foot Joseph Keith boutique stands out with his own handcrafted wares, plus a few dazzlers by his father, Renato, and a smattering of private-label platinum pieces. —Michele Meyer

DESTINY’S CALL In Ronquillo lore, Joseph is a late bloomer. Father Renato L. Ronquillo apprenticed at age 14 in his own father’s jewelry shop in Manila, the Philippines. The sole certified Jewelers of America Master Bench Jeweler in Houston and southeast Texas, Renato emigrated to Houston at 21, and eventually opened Renato Jewelers in 1976. Joseph inherited not only the family passion but also his father’s work ethic. (As a teenager, his favorite accessory was a sketch pad filled with designs.) Eager to expand his skills and horizons, he studied the trade for five years at various universities, including New York City’s Fashion Institute of Technology. Joseph then worked for his father for a year—“learning the ins and outs of running a store,” he explains—and in sales at Tiffany & Co. in Houston for two years. “Each was a stepping stone to where I am now,” he says. “I always knew I wanted the freedom to be my own boss, selling my own line.”

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY FELIX SANCHEZ

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STORE WE ADORE CASE STUDY

WELL SET With fashion jeweler Kendra Scott less than a block away—plus the silver-focused J. Landa and designerheavy Chardé Jewelers nearby—Joseph ﬁgured out quickly that being a lifestyle store (he sold handbags and soy candles at one point) wasn’t going to work. So he honed in on what he does best: jewelry, handmade and original. “Each store has its own taste and approach,” Joseph says. “Everything we sell is one-ofa-kind, not brand names.” An airy white showroom ﬂaunts his pendants, rings, and bracelets in textured, oxidized sterling silver and 18k gold, adorned with labradorite, pearls, turquoise, or raw diamonds. “I design everyday pieces that are meant to be layered,” he says. The prices are pretty everyday too, from $50 to $1,500.

CUSTOM COLLABORATIONS Thirty percent of Joseph’s work is custom: anniversary presents, cocktail rings, or diamond and platinum

engagement rings, often made from recycled jewelry and costing up to $10,000. “It becomes an eco-friendly tribute,” says Joseph, who sometimes invites clients to sketch their ideas. “I love collaborating with customers.” And Joseph’s father has his own ideas for exceptional pieces. Two showstoppers we spotted on our visit: a $15,000 platinum and 18k gold pendant studded with diamonds, spessartite garnets, and sapphires, and a $10,000 18k gold and akoya pearl brooch.

GEM GALLERY Transparent blue vases, antique jewelry boxes, and rocks scattered within the cases echo Joseph Keith’s nature-inspired collections. Etched aluminum wall hangings reﬂect the textured wares. “I want it to feel like an art gallery, but cozy.” Like its contents, the store is an ever-evolving work of art. Noting a strong recent uptick in men’s sales and a dearth of masculine, edgy yet professional jewelry, Ronquillo’s next focus is enlarging his men’s collection: “I love the adrenaline of building something…whether it’s fabricating a piece of jewelry or expanding my business.” ■

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JCKONLINE.COM PROUD OF YOUR WINDOWS AND DISPLAY CASES? SEND US PHOTOS.

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SHOPTALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER LEADER OF THE PACK

Search Mission Jim Brusilovsky puts the diamonds right where you can see ’em: online Unlike many of his contemporaries, fine jewelry retailer Jim Brusilovsky isn’t intimidated by the tide-shifting prowess of the Blue Niles of the world. “Having a human being is important” when selling diamonds, asserts the owner of Pennsylvania’s Marks Jewelers, with locations in Levittown and Montgomeryville. But that doesn’t mean he’s not hustling to compete with the industry’s major e-commerce players. Brusilovsky recently souped up his company’s website by integrating an online search tool, Diamond Search Engine, that allows consumers to browse the retailer’s inventory of diamonds before setting foot into either of its locations. The easyto-use tool lets them search by cut, clarity, and carat size, then sift through the results, which are almost always extensive. “All the [big] online retailers are linked to some kind of diamond search engine,” says Brusilovsky. “Now we look at least as strong as they are.” —Emili Vesilind What inspired your digital diamond finder? The consumer who’s shopping online is completely different from the one shopping in-store. I wanted to have something that [reflected] that price-sensitive, no-salesperson mindset. I think that’s a particularly millennial mindset. People that are looking online are searching out information, and Diamond Search provides them with that. People don’t want information to be filtered through a salesperson anymore. They want to find it themselves. Who maintains the inventory listings? There’s a dedicated team of people on my staff working on it. It’s been a long process setting it up, and it’s an ongoing process. We’re always maintaining it; it’s the kind of process that will never be done. How do you see fine jewelry retailing evolving in the future? The fact that there’s not quite an answer to that question is what has all of us wracking our brains. I definitely don’t think that, long-term, the current model of e-commerce fine jewelry retailing can survive. Major online retailers are allowed to make very little profit and survive right now, because stockholders are giving them [latitude], thinking they are representing the future model of jewelry retail. But I’m not sure that’s the future. People are going to, at some point, hold these websites accountable for not producing top-line revenue.

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Aside from the touch-and-feel factor, why do you think jewelry retailing ultimately favors brick-and-mortar? Everything’s become commoditized: a SKU. If you’re buying an engagement ring with a colorless diamond with the highest rating, you can buy it online and you don’t have to worry about clarity. But most people have a budget…so they want to see the thing before they buy it. Why is the search engine a particularly good tool for modern bridal buyers? I think millennials are most turned off by being sold. They want to be informed and even entertained. They want to be guided. They want to be educated. They’re very in tune with their ﬁnances, and very insecure over their lack thereof. A millennial is so geared up to go online for everything and see the price of things. I sometimes have people sit with the Blue Nile app open in my store, literally scrolling through the app while they’re getting a diamond presentation. Millennials are good at shopping by themselves. So it wasn’t online sales that prompted you to implement the search engine? Though we have had diamond ring sales online, I don’t think it’s ever going to be as deep a revenue stream as some people think. We’re going toward the Wal-Mart and Target model [of omnichannel sales] rather than Blue Nile. We’re very fortunate to be in an industry where people want to touch and hold things. If you don’t have a website that shows your customers that you are the place to stop into, you’re losing customers. Your website is what used to be your phone book page. The best I can hope is that my site makes people feel they should stop at our store. I deﬁnitely want to be one of the stops. ■

JIM BRUSILOVSKY MARKS JEWELERS

Montgomeryville and Levittown, Pa. marks-jewelers.com facebook.com/marksjewelers

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JCKONLINE.COM GO ONLINE TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

PHOTOGRAPH BY RYAN SMITH

9/17/14 2:42 PM

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■ STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THELOOK Dynamic Duos

Double your pleasure, double your fun with double-sided earrings: Along with climbers and cuffs (for more on those edgy ornaments, see page 99), these stylish jewels are ear candy everyone’s craving. With a precious motif capping each end, the front-to-back earring puts a modern, slightly tribal spin on the stud that speaks to a new generation of accessory lovers.

Multi-gem ear jacket in 18k gold with emerald stud, 0.95 ct. t.w. sapphires, and 0.43 ct. t.w. emeralds; $3,500 (sold singly); Anita Ko, Los Angeles; 212-966-6467; anitako.com

Estrella backward hoops in 14k gold with diamonds; $1,700; Michelle Fantaci at MUSE, NYC; 212-463-7950; michellefantaci.com

Stabbed Pearl earring in 18k rose gold with Tahitian pearl; $1,350 (sold singly); Hannah Martin, London; 44-20-3302-1964; hannahmartin london.com

5 2

NeDouble Cubo pearl earring in 24k gold-plated brass with clear pavé Swarovski crystals and Japanese akoya pearls; $775; Vita Fede at Fragments, NYC; 212-226-8878; vitafede.com

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Studs in 18k gold with 0.61 ct. t.w. trillion-cut Brazilian emeralds and 1.04 cts. t.w. diamonds; $10,500; Jemma Wynne, NYC; 212-980-8500; jemmawynne.com

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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THELOOK

STYLE FILE FROM RED CARPET TO REALITY

Girls in White Dresses These are a few of our favorite things from the 2014 Emmy Awards

SOFIA VERGARA

UNDER $3,000 UNDER $15,000 000 18k white gold ring g with mond a 2.9 ct. gray diamond slice and 0.58 ct.. t.w. white diamond micro pavé; $14,000; Susan Foster, Beverly Hills, 0-4244; Calif.; 310-820-4244; welry.com susanfosterjewelry.com

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Teardrop bezel moonstone ring with partial pavé diamonds in 14k rose gold; $2,625; Jacquie Aiche, Beverly Hills, Calif.; 310-550-7529, ext. 101; jacquieaiche.com

VERGARA: JON KOPALOFF/GETTY IMAGES. GES. INSET: C. FLANIGAN/GETTY IMAGES.

Even when other celebs lay off the sparkle, we can always count on Vergara to accessorize to the max. In a Roberto Cavalli silver and white gown, the Modern Family star dazzled with more than $2 million in Lorraine Schwartz jewelry, including kite-shape diamond earrings, 30-plus carats of Colombian emerald rings, and a 15 ct. diamond shield ring. No wonder she just released her own line at Kay Jewelers. Vergara clearly loves her bling.

JCK OCTOBER BER 2014 jckonline.com

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BYBLOS BRACELETS Pre ci o us Ob j e cts o f Be a uty

• Get to Know Us Program • Collection Packages with E xc h a n g e P r i v i l e g e s • I n - C a s e S e l l i n g S y s t e m • S a l e s Tr a i n i n g M a t e r i a l s • Gabriel & Co. Rewards Program • Custom Collateral & Promotion Materials • National Marketing • Dealer Locator C O N TA C T O U R C U S T O M E R S E R V I C E F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N AT 1 . 2 1 2 . 5 1 9 . 1 4 0 0

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G A B R I E L N Y. C O M

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THELOOK

STYLE FILE FROM RED CARPET TO REALITY

LAVERNE COX

JULIANNE HOUGH

Last year, Cox told E!, she watched the Emmys at home, eating ice cream. What a difference a year makes! Nominated for her turn as inmate/prison hairdresser Sophia on Orange Is the New Black, Cox donned a custom Grecian-inspired Marc Bouwer gown, topped off by vintage Fred Leighton diamond earrings and brooches. It’s almost criminal how great she looked.

After a couple of disastrous Emmy outfits (remember last year’s blahgray peek-a-boo number?), Hough finally went sleek and simple: a strapless satin Dsquared2 gown and High Jewelry collection styles by th the Chopard. We give Dancing With Stars’ newest judge—who walked the red carpet with her brother, fivetime DWTSS champ Derek Hough— our Most Improved award.

Diamond clips set in platinum with 33 cts. t.w. round and baguette diamonds; price on request; Fred Leighton, NYC; 212-288-1872; fredleighton.com

UNDER $1,500 Sterling silver and 18k yellow gold Monaco ring in green quartz with white sapphires; $1,100; Judith Ripka, NYC; 212-244-1230, ext. 217; judithripka.com

UNDER $50,000 18k white gold double-clip brooch with 10.5 cts. t.w. diamonds and 3.2 cts. t.w. baguettecut rubies; $41,900; Gayubo, Madrid; 34-91-532-1129; gayubo.com

UNDER DER $1,500 14k whitee gold le vintage-style oc openwork brooch with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,143; Stuller, Lafayette, La.; 337-262-7700; stuller.com

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UNDER $150,000 18k white and yellow gold ring with a 5.52 ct. Colombian emerald and 2.55 cts. t.w. diamonds; $105,000; Akiva Gil, NYC; 800-592-0009; akivagil.com

COX: JASON LAVERIS/GETTY IMAGES. HOUGH: DAVID LIVINGSTON/GETTY IMAGES.

High Jewelry collection ring with 13.36 ct ct. octagonal step-cut emerald in a white diamond pavé band in 18k white gold; price on request; Chopard, NYC; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com

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“Working at GemFair® Tucson with AGTA dealers is so very important because of their commitment to ethical practices. It’s almost as if there is

Laura Berringer Senior Buyer Ben Bridge Jeweler Seattle,WA

an umbrella of security over the entire show!”

Show/Hotel Information: AGTA.org

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AGTA Office: 800-972-1162

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THELOOK

FASHION INTEL HOT OFF THE PRESSES

Fall Out Girls Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trending and whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advertising in the September issues

INSTYLE

MARIE CLAIRE

PUSHING: â&#x20AC;˘ Emerald-cut emerald and diamond open ring; 22k emerald cabochon cuff (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Green With Envyâ&#x20AC;?) â&#x20AC;˘ Tsavorite snake ear cuffs; wing diamond ear climbers (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Heads upâ&#x20AC;ŚLobes are the new ďŹ ngersâ&#x20AC;?)

PUSHING: â&#x20AC;˘ Ruby looped drop earrings; black ceramic watch with blue sapphireâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;covered face (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Razzle Dazzle: Our picksâ&#x20AC;Świll have you sparkling all seasonâ&#x20AC;?) â&#x20AC;˘ Watch with kaleidoscope-pattern face; sapphire, diamond, and opal sunburst cuff (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fiber Opticsâ&#x20AC;?)

ADVERTISERS: Tiffany & Co., Movado, Swarovski, Tacori, Vahan, Marco Bicego, Gabriel & Co., Endless Jewelry, Stephanie Kantis, Footnotes Jewelry, Simon G.

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ADVERTISERS: Dior Watches, David Yurman, Baume & Mercier, Seiko, Hearts On Fire, Swarovski, Pandora, Tacori

HARPERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BAZAAR

ELLE

PUSHING: â&#x20AC;˘ Wood ring with gold insets; gemstone four-ďŹ nger knuckle ring (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s In: Bohemian Chicâ&#x20AC;?) â&#x20AC;˘ Enameled 18k gold striped stacking rings; geometric metal bib necklace (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pattern Playâ&#x20AC;?)

PUSHING: â&#x20AC;˘ Black opal and gemstone beetle ring; tsavorite and sapphire prism earrings (â&#x20AC;&#x153;From entomology to advanced geometry, designers are rethinking ďŹ ne jewelry in mind-bending new waysâ&#x20AC;?) â&#x20AC;˘ Silver fringe earring; gold and diamond openwork shoulder-duster (â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Solo Dangleâ&#x20AC;?)

ADVERTISERS: Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, Patek Philippe, JB Star, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, Harry Winston, Circa, Roberto Demeglio, de Grisogono, Movado, Swarovski, Van Cleef & Arpels, Shinola, Le Vian, Buccellati, Antonini, Carelle, Bulgari, Phillip Gavriel, Effy, Vahan, Christopher Designs, Hearts On Fire, Stephanie Kantis, Michael M., Satya Jewelry, Endless Jewelry

ADVERTISERS: Tiffany & Co., Chanel Watches, David Yurman, Bulgari, Audemars Piguet, Endless Jewelry, Longines, Kimberly McDonald, Swarovski, Movado, Effy, Hearts On Fire, Marco Bicego, Loree Rodkin, Frey Wille, Tacori, Elle Time & Jewelry

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THELOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE INDUSTRY ICONS

There’s Something About Irene How Irene Neuwirth’s colorful gems and aw-shucks demeanor charm celebs and real folks alike BY ARI KARPEL Approximately one out of every ﬁve photos on jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth’s Instagram is of her dog, Teddy. Sometimes the shaggy white Labradoodle with a soggy snout is frolicking on the beach or enjoying some other typically canine pursuit. But just as often, Teddy’s decked out in a couple of brightly colored $50,000 necklaces made of opals or onyx, posing like the most unfazed, shabby-chic model you’ve ever laid eyes on. Between Teddy’s scruffy charm and his owner’s envy-inducing lifestyle—nights out with her BFFs Busy Philipps and Nate Berkus, bellinis in Rome with her movie-director boyfriend—Neuwirth’s account has amassed more than 13,000 followers. And it tells you pretty much everything you need to know about this year’s recipient of the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Swarovski Award for Accessory Design: At a time when celebrities have seemingly direct relationships with their fans via social media, Neuwirth has made her bohemian, Southern California beach life an aspiration even for women who can afford her chunky, candy-colored, up-to-$80,000 pieces. The 38-year-old designer manages to bridge the divide between luxury jewels and accessible, wearable, joyous design. But don’t be fooled: Behind her gaptoothed grin beats the heart of a very driven artist. Neuwirth’s start in the jewelry business is the stuff of entrepreneurial how-to’s. As she tells it, “I started making jewelry for fun, and Barneys picked up my line.” It’s a tale that has been repeated in almost every magazine piece written about her—in Vogue, W, Harper’s Bazaar. And it seems at best exaggerated, at worst apocryphal. But, insists Neuwirth, “It really happened that way. I went to the bead store on Main Street [in Santa Monica]. I made 10 pieces of jewelry, and I wrote Barneys a note with, like, a Sharpie. It said, ‘I hope you love it!’ I sent it to them and then hit redial until somebody answered the phone. They said, ‘Let us know when you’re in New York.’ I said, ‘I’m going to be there tomorrow!’ ” As the story goes, Neuwirth hung up the phone, bought a plane ticket, and ﬂew to New York City, where the buyers at Barneys purchased her line.

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18k rose gold pendant necklace with 18.06 cts. t.w. boulder opals, 4.88 cts. t.w. Lightning Ridge opals, and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamond pavé; $22,500

Irene Neuwirth and the famous Teddy

18k rose gold ring with 5.79 ct. opal heart and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamond pavé; $8,120; Irene Neuwirth, Venice, Calif.; 310-450-6063; ireneneuwirth.com

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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THELOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE INDUSTRY ICONS

18k yellow gold necklace with 247.25 cts. t.w. turquoise and 0.88 ct. t.w. diamond pavé; $32,480

The crazy thing about this tale—aside from the fact that it seems impossible that Barneys would buy jewelry made at a bead store—is that the future CFDA award winner hadn’t had any training. But one rarely mentioned aspect of the story brings it all a bit more down to earth: “Every single piece broke,” she admits. But by then it didn’t matter. With Barneys’ validation, Neuwirth took classes from a jewelry professor and learned wax carving and metalsmithing. “I really fell in love with the process.” Neuwirth’s origins story might have taken on some fantastical ﬂourishes over the years, but its underlying messages are clear: Anyone can do it! Go for it! You’ll never know unless you try! All of that is true to who Neuwirth is. “I think people are really talented,” she says. “But they wait for things to be totally perfect, and they’re scared to put themselves out there. So I did, and it worked.” And regardless of exactly how it came about, Barneys now accounts for the bulk of Neuwirth’s sales. (She has more than two dozen other retail accounts, including jewelry heavyweights Marissa Collections and Ylang 23.) The persistence that drove her to this success has been a part of Neuwirth for as long as she can remember. “I don’t know,” she muses. “That’s something deep within that I can’t even explain. I’ve always been that way. If I like something, I just get a bit obsessive over it.” Her current obsession: her newest collection. “I literally designed, like, 200 pieces in the last two weeks,” says Neuwirth, who is padding around her Venice, Calif., office barefoot, in Balenciaga. “I think the whole office would say that is my biggest challenge.” Many designers have a vision for a formal collection, but she doesn’t work that way: “I just go wild. A collection is basically when I have a due date. Then I’m, ‘Okay, it’s done. I guess that’s the collection. I’ll stop now.’ ” It’s one of the ways she doesn’t adhere to the rules of high-end jewelry design. Another: She doesn’t sketch. “I don’t know how people normally design

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18k rose gold ring with 2.24 ct. rose-cut diamond and 1.39 cts. t.w. diamond pavé; price on request

jewelry,” she says. “I kind of paint with the stones a little bit. I have stones cut for me and I buy a lot of one-of-a-kind emeralds, aquamarines, sapphires, and opals. I’ll sort of mix them around and play with [them] until it feels perfectly balanced, and also sort of not balanced.” She then snaps photos of the result and speaks to her jewelers about making it. That kind of whimsical, intuitive way of puzzling together a piece gives Neuwirth’s work a kaleidoscopic energy, a dynamism that animates it. They’re not

18k yellow gold earrings with 5.39 cts. t.w. Lightning Ridge opals, 65.84 cts. t.w. Kingman turquoise drops, and 0.66 ct. t.w. diamond pavé; $21,560

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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A World Apart. Since 1987.

Online Purchasing

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Co-Branded Catalogs

Custom Ordering

Advertising Assets

Branded Displays

Product Images

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THELOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE INDUSTRY ICONS

just raw, precious stones; they’re raw, precious stones arranged in a kind of magical assortment that makes a bold statement. It’s easy to imagine that Neuwirth picked up this way of designing from her mother, Geraldine Neuwirth, a well-regarded painter whose abstract canvases burst with swirls of color. “I’m a real combination of both my parents,” says the younger Neuwirth, who grew up shuttling between her mother’s house by the beach in Venice and her father’s place in tony Bel-Air. “My mom is wildly creative, and my dad”—Peter Neuwirth, president and chairman of a company that manufactures high-performance automotive parts—“is an incredible businessperson.” She has certainly put that side to use as well. Reflecting on her staff of roughly 15, she explains: “I just want my business to grow at a steady, nice, not-too-quick pace.… I want to stay around for a long time. I want to be a brand that people will know and will pass down to their kids.” Longevity is no small feat, considering her price point. Neuwirth’s business, which she established in 2003, really came into its own during the height of the recession. “Five years ago, I thought, How are we going to do this? We’re selling pieces that are $20,000. We’re selling something that’s not traditionally fine jewelry to, like, the 1 percent. But I don’t know. It keeps growing. I have clients who collect pieces year after year.” Perhaps her designs were just what was needed at a moment of collective crisis. Neuwirth’s one-of-akind baubles are so colorful and glassy they could be taken for costume jewelry by the untrained eye—just the thing for the super-wealthy to wear to not appear too indulgent in lean times. So what keeps shoppers returning, even in the notso-lean times? Partly it’s her vibrant and eye-catching designs; but it’s equally Neuwirth herself. She’s someone you want to become friends with, and it’s not as if the luxury industry is teeming with designers who are warm and welcoming. “When I was first in the business, I was like, What is this racket?” she recalls. “People take themselves really seriously.” At her trunk shows, Neuwirth sometimes thinks the salespeople secretly want her to leave because she refuses to give the hard sell. “I’ll tell customers, ‘Don’t feel pressure to buy that. Only get it if you really love it. Go home and think about it.’ ” She’s cultivating clients for the long term; these aren’t just one-off sales. In fact, Neuwirth has become friends with many of her clients, repeat customers who are invited to dinner parties at her home on the Venice Canals, where she’s been known to cook up batches of fried chicken—organic and hormone-free, of course.

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18k white and yellow gold necklace with 59.79 ct. opal, 36.14 cts. t.w. indicolite, 5.16 cts. t.w. rosecut diamonds, and 0.48 ct. t.w. diamond pavé; price on request

Anyone can catch glimpses of those dinner parties on Neuwirth’s Instagram, that great showcase of Teddy and his doggy adventures. Over the summer, Neuwirth posted a series of pictures from her southern Italy getaway with her boyfriend of eight years, movie director Phil Lord (22 Jump Street, The Lego Movie, Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs). Vogue.com picked them up and ran her “photo diary.” The morning they posted, Neuwirth told Lord, “You’re on Vogue.com.” “What? Let me see that!” he said. “Irene, how did that happen?” Neuwirth’s sassy response: “Sorry, you’re on Vogue. It’s a big problem, right?” ■

18k white gold earrings with 4.64 cts. t.w. Lightning Ridge opals and 0.4 ct. t.w. diamond pavé; $7,330

18k rose gold ring with pink opal and rosecut diamonds; $19,760

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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THELOOK

QUESTIONNAIRE UP CLOSE & PERSONAL

JCK Asks…Karen Karch On rose cuts, roses, and thorns “Obvious beauty bores me,” says Karen Karch. She’s explaining the evolution of her trademark claws, a chunkier, more jagged version of your everyday prong. “An unpredictable, if not slightly dark, juxtaposition creates the poetry.” Plus, the claws mix so well with vines—another of the designer’s signatures, which she’s been winding through her hand-textured gold and silver jewels for some 20 years. Later, she was “seduced” by the rose, not to mention the thorns. And as they say, every rose has its thorn. —Melissa Rose Bernardo Age: Just turned 50 in July! Number of years in the biz: 25. Number of employees you oversee: Currently operating in chic old-school mode, as a mom-and-pop shop boutique/atelier in the Gramercy Park area, with a fabulous team of talented contractors. Family and pets: My husband, Frank, and my Australian cattle dog, Spitfire, are my world. Describe your personal style: I am a luxe grunge, ugly-beautiful, edgy individualist with a weakness for exquisite leather pieces—jackets and leggings—with chunky boots and layers upon layer of jewels, of course. First piece you ever designed: My first pieces were street-inspired statement pieces created in silver from found objects that were studded with semiprecious stones and broken reflectors. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: Always the next piece I am working on! First job ever: Waitress. How did you get started designing jewelry? After completing a degree in communications at The University of Texas at Austin, I had an epiphany that the creative career I wanted was to be designing jewelry. I then studied at the university in El Paso with Rachelle Thiewes, and got my second degree in metals from Parsons in New York. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would work for a fashion designer that I admire highly—like Haider Ackermann. Or, on the opposite end of the spectrum, [be] involved in a raw vegan chocolate business. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Stacked Tiara rings, a Vine Gladiator ring, Vine midi rings; a prototype of a new bangle design on my wrist that is soon to become a mid- and upper-arm design; a Completely pendant in platinum with my grandmother’s diamond paired with a yellow gold diamond studded horn as a choker, layered with various other diamond-studded Legend dog tags and diamond-studded horn amulets, with a silver bead lariat and a 32-inch gold bead necklace;

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Spitﬁre

18k gold Legend dog tags with diamonds

Lithe beaded lariat in 18k yellow gold

Triple Vine 18k yellow gold band

a silver Blade Runner earring paired with a gold ear cuff, and on the other ear a tiny gold Double Vine hoop. On your desk right now: Jewelry (finished and unfinished), sketches, paperwork, water, chocolate-flavor hot tea, and chlorella tablets. I have a very big desk! On your playlist: “A Thousand Kisses Deep,” Leonard Cohen; “Into My Arms,” Nick Cave; “Cherokee,” Cat Power; “Save Me,” Aimee Mann; and, when working late, something more upbeat, like Iggy Azalea’s “Fancy.” Exercise regimen: Hatha and Kundalini yoga, cardio, and weight training. I also walk to and from work every day and as much as possible. What did you have for breakfast? Every day the same: a green shake I make in my Vitamix. And fermented coconut yogurt if still hungry. Guilty pleasure: Raw chocolate! Shopping! Massages! Drink (daytime/evening): Alkaline water/tea. First website you check every day (not your own!): Instagram—if that counts! Scent: Perhaps one day I must create it, as I have not yet found one that suits me. How do you unwind? When overworked, I love to shut out the world and binge-watch Netflix. Book you’re reading: #GIRLBOSS by Sophia Amoruso. Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Isabella Blow: A Life in Fashion by Lauren Goldstein Crowe. Preferred news source: Instagram! Am I too visual? Favorite movie: Wim Wenders’ Wings of Desire. Who would play you in your life story? Cate Blanchett. Personal motto: “To thine own self be true.” ■

Vine solitaire stacking band in 18k yellow gold

Intrigue Crown ring in 18k rose gold

Iggy Azalea

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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THELOOK

THE WAY WE WORE MEGAWATTAGE ON AND OFF THE SCREEN

Crawford saw it as her duty to buy jewels during the Depression: “I, Joan Crawford, believe in the dollar,” she said. “Everything I earn, I spend.”

Not much about Joan Crawford’s life can be described as “amicable.” But the legendary diva and her second husband, actor Franchot Tone, stayed friendly after their 1939 divorce. The proof is on her finger. To commemorate the split, Tone gave Crawford this gold ring topped with a 104.52 ct. rectilinear amethyst from one of her favorite jewelers, Raymond C. Yard. The actress owned several of his pieces—including a wide bracelet with three star sapphires (73.15, 63.61, and 57.65 cts.) and a few diamond bracelets made with his signature mixed cuts. “The varied shapes caused the pieces to reflect light in so many different ways,” explains Bob Gibson, who now runs Yard’s company. “You couldn’t avoid being drawn to each distinction.” Gibson’s dad, Yard’s original successor, was working at the salon one weekend when Crawford popped in to shop. “Mr. Yard was very, very warm. My father was still in high school and Mr. Yard said to Joan, ‘I just hired this nice kid, would you mind saying hello to him?’ My dad got more than he bargained for.” The 17-year-old helped Crawford fasten a diamond necklace— after which she spun around, grabbed his face, and gave him a huge kiss on the mouth. His first! —Aubry D’Arminio

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JCKONLINE.COM FOR MORE VINTAGE PICS

PHOTOGRAPH BY MGM/GEORGE HURRELL PROVIDED BY CHRISTIE’S

Yard Player

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HOLIDAY SURVIVAL

GUIDE

SHOPPING DAYS LEFT!

DUST OFF THOSE DECORATIONS. GET YOUR BEST VENDORS ON SPEED DIAL. MAKE ROOM IN YOUR CASES. THE HOLIDAY SEASON STARTS…NOW! Let’s be optimistic: You’re busy. Hopefully, busier than busy. Slammed, swamped, deliriously slaving away. That’s what the next three months should be like—if the universe cooperates. But even if it doesn’t, we have a few tricks up our sleeve to help you prime the holiday pump. First: Take a good look at your decor. Does it need a refresh? Let our interior designers help spiff up your store. Next, consider your products. Do you have a steady supply of best sellers ready? Are your price points covered? Follow our expert stock tips. And last, have you cherry-picked the trends? The ﬁnal part of our Holiday Survival Guide brings you the season’s most salable products. Now, pour yourself a big glass of eggnog. You deserve it!

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PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE SOYEZ-BERNARD STYLING BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI

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Diamond-shape fringe earrings in 18k gold and round-shape ring in 18k gold, $400–$4,000, Jack Vartanian, NYC, 212-988-2881, jackvartanian.com

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HOLIDAY SURVIVAL

GUIDE

STORE DECOR WHEN IT COMES TO HOLIDAY THEMES, THINK FESTIVE, CLASSY, AND SIMPLE

BY EMILI VESILIND

With retailing’s most hectic season upon us, who could blame you for pushing “decorate the store” to the bottom of the to-do list? But your shop’s image and ambience are particularly crucial during the holidays: Foot traffic is at its peak, and your floor is teeming with impressionable first-time shoppers. A store swathed in elegant holiday decor makes for a more enjoyable shopping experience— encouraging consumers to spend. Big-box stores have design armies to festoon their buildings in sparkly splendor. But many overtaxed small retailers rely on dated, generic decorations, instead of seizing an opportunity to thrill shoppers’ senses. If your seasonal decor is due for an overhaul, West Hollywood, Calif.–based interior designer Natasha Baradaran suggests starting by choosing a specific color theme—then employing it through the store’s total design. Metallic hues are all the rage currently, and muted blues and greens are also popular. There are no “rules” to color, but avoid the old red-and-green Christmas combo, which is decidedly passé and too closely tied to a single holiday. “Whites combined with mixed metals like gold and silver can feel dramatic and festive,” says Baradaran. “Yet it stills works as a great backdrop for flowers. There’s versatility to a white-and-metallics story.” Los Angeles designer Oliver M. Furth relies on gold for a chic seasonal spirit. “It’s festive, timeless, and nondenominational,” he says. It’s also a natural for jewelers, as it picks up the shine of the merchandise. Considering a gold theme? Furth recommends “changing the liners

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HOLIDAY

Not that subdued decorations are always the most effective. Marie Helene Morrow, owner of Reinhold Jewelers in San Juan, Puerto Rico, has used vibrant street-style graffiti in her holiday (and everyday) store designs, to fantastical effect. “I’ve had a grafﬁti artist come in and decorate a tree or make a tree,” she says. “Sometimes the tree is planks of wood”—maybe not realistic, but festive nonetheless. Another holiday season, she adds, “we used only turquoise-colored balls.… Another year, we had mermaids around the tree. We always like to think of something that’s really different. I just want the [decor] to be happy, and I would never make it too religious because I want it to appeal to everybody.” It’s also important that your decor appeal to you and your staff, Phoenix says. “I always encourage friends and clients to embrace their own personal style, and stick with decor and traditions that make them happy at this time of year.” ■

SURVIVAL

GUIDE

PROJECT HOLIDAY

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in your cases to gold lamé, using gold Lurex ribbon to wrap chairs in your store” and “adding gold foil to the edges of holiday invites.” Foliage-inspired greens are another elegant option. Westime boutiques incorporate fresh plants such as topiaries, says Laura Q. Hughes, director of communications for the Southern California watch-centric chain. She adds that the store sources most of its seasonal decor from ﬂorists and event companies. L.A. designer David Phoenix, for one, favors more traditional holiday decor, utilizing real garlands and other plant cuttings, which he accents with silver or gold elements. “I love the smell of a real Christmas tree,” he says. “And I like using a collection of old ornaments with new ones mixed in.” Phoenix adds oomph to his natural-feeling decorations with a smattering of white lights. The pairing of natural elements and white lights is a mainstay in luxury stores and shopping centers, including Fashion Island in Newport Beach, Calif. “We aim for decor that’s timeless and elegant, so lots of white lights and fresh poinsettias—about 4,000 poinsettias, in fact,” says Stacie Ellis, senior marketing director for the mall’s parent company, Irvine Company Retail Properties. The design team for the outdoor mall wraps the massive palm trees in small white lights and hangs “giant but simple bows around our center monument signs…so they look like large but tasteful gift boxes,” Ellis adds. No palm trees? No worries. Potted trees and plants add a lovely sense of occasion to any space, says Baradaran. Poinsettias are striking, especially in multiples. And small, potted pine trees can be decorated beautifully with bows, garlands, and ornaments. All three interior designers recommend forgoing any elements that are nonsecular or cartoonish (e.g., Frosty the Snowman). And never use items that aren’t in tip-top condition (like fraying bows and strings of lights that are missing bulbs). When in doubt—or short on time—strive for simplicity. “At the end of the day, your holiday decorating should enhance and complement the merchandise, not detract from it,” Furth says.

Metallics make it.

Sorry, Santa!

WHAT’S IN 1. “Metallics, sparkle, and glamour.” —Oliver M. Furth 2. “White lights.” —David Phoenix 3. “A natural organic look: magnolia leaves, candles, rich holiday scents, honeycombs, and cinnamon cloves.” —David Phoenix 4. “Potted plants and trees.” —Laura Q. Hughes 5. “Decorating with seasonal ﬂorals or any nature-inspired theme that celebrates the wonder of winter.” —Natasha Baradaran 6. “Joy!” —Oliver M. Furth

WHAT’S OUT 1. “Red and green.” —Stacie Ellis 2. “Blinking lights that distract from the watches and jewelry on display.” —Laura Q. Hughes 3. “Moving parts… No dancing Santas!” —Oliver M. Furth 4. “Faux plants.” —Oliver M. Furth 5. “Mixing too many things together, repetitiveness, and overly complicated holiday installations.” —David Phoenix 6. “Holiday retail burnout: Get some sleep, retailers!” —JCK editors

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Choose a color theme—say, a silvery blue— and continue it all throughout your store.

As with fashion and furniture, commercial decor is subject to the whims and whispers of the zeitgeist. The classic red-and-green combo isn’t the stuff of high style in seasonal decor this year—but that doesn’t mean it won’t be all the rage next year. We asked our experts to weigh in on what’s trendy when it comes to tree trimming, tinsel dribbling, and more. —EV

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HOLIDAY SURVIVAL

GUIDE

STOCK TIPS WITH THE HOLIDAY SEASON UPON US, WE HELP RETAILERS FINE-TUNE THEIR MERCHANDISING PLANS AND ORDER SMARTER SO THEY CAN REAP MORE SALES

BY JENNIFER HEEBNER

When Sally Furrer, a merchandising specialist and consultant based in Libby, Mont., saw that a Midwestern retail jewelry client’s inventory levels were at their highest point on Dec. 31, 2013—instead of a month prior—she knew a heart-to-heart was in order. “You should have the most merchandise a month before you anticipate a higher level of sales,” says Furrer. Late deliveries or anemic amounts of product can stunt holiday sales and cripple cash ﬂow; meanwhile, inadequate assortments of price points can turn away buyers. What’s more, placing orders at the wrong cost and time of year could result in “a store full of merchandise and little cash at the end of the season,” says Abe Sherman, CEO of Buyers Intelligence Group (BIG) in Napa, Calif. We asked a few retail experts for advice on ordering smarter for the holidays (and beyond). HOLIDAY MERCHANDISE DOESN’T ALWAYS WORK YEAR-ROUND. A former BIG client in Southern California struggled to streamline inventory, eliminate nonperformers, and improve cash ﬂow only to rack up more than $100,000 in accounts payable shortly after Christmas. The problem: The retailer reordered holiday pieces that traditionally don’t perform well come Jan. 1. “Some merchandise sells for Christmas, Valentine’s Day, and Mother’s Day, but not for the rest of the year—and should not be replaced after certain dates,” Sherman says. “Diamond bracelets will sell better in the fourth quarter than they will throughout the year.”

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Holiday must-have: “The new Breitling Emergency timepiece. And for jewelry and gems, it has to be the Crafted by Inﬁnity line of loose diamonds.” —Darren Delgado, Old Northeast Jewelers St. Petersburg, Fla.

Emergency wristwatch with dual frequency personal locator beacon and titanium case and strap; $16,475 (shown in Cobra yellow); Breitling, Wilton, Conn.; 877-BREITLING; breitling.com

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HOLIDAY SURVIVAL

GUIDE Two-ﬁnger ring in 14k yellow gold with 32.11 ct. Australian boulder opal and 0.8 ct. t.w. brown diamonds; $4,700; Parlé Jewelry Designs, Pocatello, Idaho; 208-2334059; parlegems.com

“Color in general because it’s more unique—there’s more mystique to color because diamonds have become so commoditized. We have some beautiful color pieces from PeJay Creations and Parlé, which has gorgeous opals.”

Castle, Pa., with eight stores across Pennsylvania and Ohio, couldn’t agree more: “Make sure what you’re purchasing is what you’re actually selling.”

—Debbie Eigenrauch-Ashway, Futer Bros. Jewelers, York, Pa.

24-inch freshwater cultured pearl wrap bracelet or necklace; $135; Nikki Lissoni at Quality Gold, Fairﬁeld, Ohio; 800-354-9833; qgold.com

“I’m very excited about our Nikki Lissoni line. It’s well made, hits all price points, covers all colors of metals— sterling, rose, and yellow—and can mix and match with looks that can be built on.” —Bobbi French, G. Thomas Jewelers, Manhattan, Kan.

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DON’T BE AFRAID TO TRY SOMETHING NEW. Tony Prater, CEO of Jensen Jewelers, based in Twin Falls, Idaho, admits waiting “longer than we should have” to bring in Chamilia, which wound up selling well for the 14-store chain. Prater says he failed to jump on the bead bandwagon right away because the pieces reminded him of the ﬂat, Italian-made steel items that predated today’s popular varieties. “They helped us reach a customer we probably would have missed,” he says. STRATEGIZE YOUR PRICE POINTS. Experts advise analyzing categories by price point, and buying into those that show the highest rates of return. Fill in price points by repricing existing items, suggests Sherman: “Convert your slow movers into cash and get healthy by the end of the season.” The holidays, says Amy Dudzik, a buyer for Borsheims in Omaha, Neb., are “a good time to take a lower margin since the store’s sales are stronger during this time.” Lisa Bridge, vice president of education of Ben Bridge in Seattle, scrutinizes sales history before placing orders. “We look at what categories have been strongest in past holiday seasons as well as what is trending recently—a color, a type of jewelry, or a design,” says Bridge. Ditto for Dudzik. “If a diamond cross turned four times this year, make sure to have at least that many on hand to support the higher volume of sales that will likely occur in the holiday season,” she says. Jennifer Perelman, president of King’s Jewelry in New

BET ON YOUR BEST SELLERS. Always keep your top sellers on the shelf. If you advertise a piece and run out, the promotion is wasted—and the situation is embarrassing. “You look silly in front of customers,” says David Perelman, vice president of King’s. “Work with your suppliers to communicate what is being promoted so they can stock some backup for you for immediate shipment,” Dudzik urges. And make reordering your mantra. “Customers have already said this is what they want to buy, so have it in cases,” Furrer says. For many jewelers, bridal is a perennial holiday seller. “December is the number 1 month for engagements,” says Furrer. “Lots of advertising dollars are spent on gifts while bridal gets a little neglected.” This year, Prater, who has a steady inventory of loose diamonds in sizes of 1 ct. and larger, is stocking up on customizable bridal options to speak to that growing trend. Many offer advice on what to order for the holidays, but Sherman has a mathematical formula for how much: Take your November and December sales; then deduct special orders (use 20 percent if you’re unsure) and reorders of fast sellers and never-outs—that is, pieces you always want in stock, such as diamond studs and hoop earrings (use 30 percent if you’re unsure). “Since this is going to wind up being roughly half of your sales for those two months, you can get an idea of how little new inventory you can buy in order to get your inventory to the proper year-end levels,” he says. BE CREATIVE—AND HAVE A LITTLE FUN! While running reports, balancing stock, having an upto-date point-of-sale system to keep hot sellers in stock, and monitoring cash ﬂow all facilitate bottom-line health, you also need to get shoppers excited about holiday lines! Tap into vendor savvy to educate staff, utilize contests to incentivize the sales force, and host themed events to drive awareness to speciﬁc collections. “It’s something people will remember,” Furrer says. She recalls a Midwestern retailer who held an intimate dinner in fall 2013 with 20 Roberto Coin–loving couples and the designer himself. The result? “A buying frenzy!” ■

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The Season’s Best Buys: Minimalist Diamonds

Wrap Stars We’ve rounded up 2014’s sureﬁre year-end sellers: delicate diamond designs, striking ear climbers, sleek metal collars, chunky gold cuffs, and cutting-edge pearl pieces. From $400 to $40,000, these jewels are the ingredients of a blockbuster holiday season. Ribbons and bows sold separately.

Sophia Ryan ring in 14k rose, white, or yellow gold with 0.07 ct. t.w. white diamonds; $400 each; Dana Rebecca, Chicago; 312-701-1773; danarebeccadesigns.com

Lollipop sterling silver and diamond pendant; $495; Ippolita, NYC; 877-865-5500; ippolita.com

Open diamond studs in 14k gold with 0.26 ct. t.w. diamonds; $895; EF Collection, Los Angeles; 818-205-3973; efcollection.com

18k yellow gold princess-cut diamond hexagon ring; $2,820; Sethi Couture, San Francisco; 415-255-4768; sethicouture.com

18k yellow, rose, and white gold bangles with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,000 each; Madhuri Parson, NYC; 917-740-3391; sales@madhuriparson.com; madhuriparson.com

Linee Misteriose mini ring in 18k rose gold with 0.41 ct. t.w. baguette- and round-shape diamonds; $3,150; Dionea Orcini Fine Jewelry, Miami Beach, Fla.; 305-982-8227; dioneaorcini.com

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The Seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Buys: Chokers

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Necklace in 14k gold-plated brass with drusy tourmaline (interchangeable) and magnetic clasp; $1,590; Clara Williams Co., Chicago; 312-280-7300; clarawilliams.com

Wire Love Always necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.04 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,700; Phillips House, Miami Beach, Fla.; 800-892-5656; phillipshouse.com

Sara mosaic wing choker in 18k gold and oxidized gilver with 1.3 cts. t.w. diamonds; $8,520; Yossi Harari at MUSE, NYC; 212-463-7950; yossiharari.com

Doppio Senso chain in 18k pink gold and ebony; $11,600; Vhernier, Milan; 39-25-412-2297; www.vhernier.com

Branch necklace with Tahitian keshi pearls and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $18,388; Jorge Adeler Collection, Great Falls, Va.; 703-759-4076; adelerjewelers.com

Hampton Cable necklace with diamonds in 18k rose gold; $18,500; David Yurman, NYC; 212-752-4255; davidyurman.com

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The Season’s Best Buys: Bangles

Geometric Fold cuff in 18k gold vermeil; $2,250; Chorthip, NYC; 212-673-5735; chorthip.com

Eternity bangle in 18k gold with pavé diamonds, $8,900, Souvenir pavé diamond cuff in 18k gold with pavé diamond letters, $12,000, Eternity bangle in 18k gold with pavé black diamonds, $6,900; Finn, NYC; 212-929-9556; ﬁnnjewelry.com

Wired cuff in 18k gold; $12,500; Zina, Beverly Hills, Calif.; 800-336-3822; zinasterling.com

Cuff in 18K gold with 0.74 ct. t.w. diamonds; $19,900; Brady Legler, NYC; 310-892-4956; bradylegler.com

Diana 18k yellow gold link bracelet with 4.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $37,080; Chimento, Miami; 305-372-8025; www.chimento.it

18k yellow gold limited-edition cuff with 23 ct. ﬁne aquamarine; price on request; Irene Neuwirth, Venice, Calif.; 310-4506063; ireneneuwirth.com

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The Season’s Best Buys: Modern Pearls

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Large pavé multicolored sapphire ring with pearls; $770; M.C.L by Matthew Campbell Laurenza, Louisville, Ky.; 502-409-6080; mcldesign.net

Necklace in blackened silver with Tahitian pearl; $1,150; Diana Widman Design, Chicago; 312-346-2363; widmandesign.com

Duality double ring in 18k rose and white gold with 10 mm lavender freshwater pearls; $2,450; Melanie Georgacopoulos, London; 44-207-837-4151; melaniegeorgacopoulos.com

Ring in 18k gold with a Tahitian keshi pearl and 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,300; Savannah Stranger at MUSE, NYC; 212-463-7950; savannahstranger.com

Akoya pearl earrings with 0.53 ct. t.w. black diamonds and 1.02 cts. t.w. white diamonds in 18k white gold; $8,030; Kavant & Sharart at Fragments, NYC; 212-226-8878; fragments.com

18k rose, white, and black gold bracelets with 13 mm–14 mm South Sea pearls and 1.48–1.57 cts. t.w. diamonds; $11,000–$12,000; Yoko London, London; 44-207-025-0700; yokolondon.com

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The Season’s Best Buys: Cuffs & Climbers

Tiny diamond ear cuffs in 18k rose gold with 0.25 ct. t.w. white diamonds; $590; Graziela Gems, Highland Park, Ill.; 773-619-3999; grazielagems.com

14k rose gold and diamond ear cuffs; $1,467; Kismet by Milka at Fragments, NYC; 212-226-8878; fragments.com

Gold ear climbers with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds and 3.55 cts. t.w. navratna; $1,695; Amrapali, NYC; 212-944-0435; amrapalijewels.com

Thorn Vine ear climber in 14k gold with 0.11 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,745; Michelle Fantaci at MUSE, NYC; 866-3016873; michelle fantaci.com

Ruby ear climbers in 18k yellow gold with 1.65 cts. t.w. rubies; $1,900; Rina Limor, NYC; 212-922-9292; rinalimor.com

Bloom Leaf cuff earrings in 18k yellow gold with matte ﬁnish; $3,000; Sandy Leong, NYC; 646-725-3336; sandyleong jewelry.com

Victory earrings in 18k black and yellow gold with 0.64 ct. t.w. diamonds, 0.32 ct. t.w. sapphires, and 1.81 cts. t.w. amethyst; $4,650; Nicholas Liu at LUXE Intelligence, NYC; 212-398-9700; nicholas-liu.com

Patricia ear cuffs in 18k white gold with 1.58 cts. t.w. blue sapphire baguettes and 0.87 ct. t.w. rose-cut diamonds; $5,590; Borgioni at Fragments, NYC; 212-226-8878; fragments.com

Rock Season collection ear climbers in 18k Noble Gold with 1.3 cts. t.w. champagne-color diamonds; $8,200; H.Stern, NYC; 212-688-0300; hstern.net

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SATURDAY

FEVER

SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY IS THE INDEPENDENT JEWELRY STORE OWNER’S BEST BET FOR CAPTURING SALES DURING THE PEAK SHOPPING DAYS OF THE HOLIDAY SEASON

BY DANIEL P. SMITH In 2011, Cory Schifter, owner of Casale Jewelers in Staten Island, N.Y., gave Small Business Saturday a test run. Then an upstart event clamoring for the nation’s attention in the looming shadows of Black Friday and Cyber Monday, the new initiative promised to promote local, independent merchants amid the holiday shopping rush. “I liked the message,” Schifter says. “The big-box stores and Internet are so powerful, but here was a day built to recognize and appreciate small businesses.” And though Casale Jewelers’ ﬁrst Small Business Saturday produced marginal results, Schifter embraced the day’s potential. “If we could learn how to leverage the day, I thought we could hit a home run.” The following year, Schifter devoted himself to promoting Casale’s involvement with the shopping holiday. He created a Facebook event and invited fans, ran Facebook ads, placed Small Business Saturday balloons in front of his store, and broadcast storewide savings on his store’s digital marketing channels.

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Rep. Janice Hahn (D-Calif.) shops in Redondo Beachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riviera Village on Small Business Saturday in 2011.

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Casale Jewelers owner Cory Schifter shows off some of his Small Business Saturday marketing material.

“What I love about Small Business Saturday is that it puts us local shops in people’s minds at a time when they are spending money.” —JOSH FREEDMAN, FREEDMAN JEWELERS

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many senior government officials, championed Small Business Saturday with proclamations or resolutions, while corporate partners such as FedEx, Twitter, Foursquare, and the U.S. Postal Service also advanced the day’s message through various marketing channels. As awareness has increased, so too has spending. Of those consumers aware of the event, 46 percent reported “shopping small” last Nov. 30, while total Small Business Saturday spending reached $5.7 billion in 2013, a nearly 4 percent jump from 2012. “With such growth, small businesses are missing an opportunity if they are not involved,” says Small Business Saturday spokesperson Nicole Leinbach Reyhle, adding that the day “capitalizes on the feel-good vibe so many want to experience” and often creates “a ripple effect that drives future traffic and sales.” Rob Tobin of Tobin Jewelers, a two-store enterprise in suburban Milwaukee, has participated in Small Business Saturday the last two years. Though Tobin says both of his Casale customers stores benefit from a loyal shopper Schifter’s calculated efforts produced help spread the base, he relishes the opportunity to buzz and results. A local TV news crew vis“shop small” ited Casale Jewelers as the store hummed message in the show his small business pride and with customers throughout the day. When store’s Staten capitalize on swelling interest in the Small Business Saturday 2012 ended, Island, N.Y., initiative. He also enjoys Small Busineighborhood. ness Saturday’s ability to counter Casale’s sales had jumped nearly 300 percent from its 2011 trial. the traditional lull his stores see on “When we used the tools available to us and Black Friday, an annual holiday season dark spot. made a committed effort to promote our involve“Small Business Saturday pumps some life back ment, we saw just how powerful this day could be,” into the store,” Tobin says. Schifter says. At Freedman Jewelers, Freedman says his Entering its fifth year in 2014, Small Business store has enjoyed nice runs with Small Business Saturday—slated this year for Nov. 29—has evolved Saturday, with some customers even preordering from a novel experiment created by American jewelry and purchasing it specifically on the shopExpress to an ever-emerging retail calendar fixture ping holiday. “I think people feel good about supspotlighting independent merchants and the value porting local commerce.” of shopping locally. And though Mark David of Danville, Va.–based “What I love about Small Business Saturday is Ben David Jewelers, a 55-year-old, family-owned that it puts us local shops in people’s minds at a time establishment sitting in the shadow of Wal-Mart when they are spending money,” says Josh Freedand a large shopping mall, has found little success man of Freedman Jewelers, a family-owned store in in his participation thus far, he remains interested downtown Boston that has participated in the event to learn how other jewelry store operators have every year since its 2010 debut. capitalized on the day. According to a 2013 survey from the National “I think [Small Business Saturday] has some Federation of Independent Business and American potential, but we haven’t found the right mix just Express, consumer awareness of Small Business yet,” David says. “As small businesses, though, one Saturday reached an all-time high in 2013, with 71 of the great advantages we have is the abilty to make percent of consumers reporting a familiarity with decisions and execute immediately.” the day. Elected officials in all 50 states and WashHere are five ways jewelry stores can get the ington, D.C., including President Barack Obama and most from Small Business Saturday:

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1. PREPARE AND PLAN. Given the noise and marketplace chatter that Black Friday and Cyber Monday generate, Reyhle suggests that retailers begin deﬁning their Small Business Saturday plans at least 30 days in advance of this Nov. 29. The strategy should include speciﬁcs around marketing, such as how the shop will use social media and contact the local press, along with a timeline for collecting event necessities such as bag stuffers, prizes, or treats for guests. “You want to make sure your shop and Small Business Saturday get their piece of the holiday shopping hype,” Reyhle says.

5 SMALL WONDERS The Tobin Jewelers family—proud participants in Small Business Saturday for the past two years

Five messages about the value of shopping small that retailers can share:

2. LEVERAGE RESOURCES. The American Express–led Small Business Saturday team aims to create a turnkey experience for independent retailers with a national advertising campaign and free marketing collateral. Last year, small business owners accessed more than 346,000 free online tools at ShopSmall.com, Small Business Saturday’s online home. That included balloons, tote bags, welcome mats, and downloadable signage as well as social media and email templates. “We know small businesses are very busy, so our PR and marketing team has done the work for them,” Reyhle says.

The event “pumps some life back into the store,” says Rob Tobin, who operates locations in Mequon and New Berlin, Wis. (pictured, above).

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3. MAKE IT UNIQUE.

1 Boost local economies.

Reyhle urges retailers to think of the day as the ceremonial kickoff to the holiday season and to explore ways they can offer a distinctive, memorable experience. In 2013, Schifter ampliﬁed Casale’s Small Business Saturday efforts with a DJ, food and drink, and giveaways. Sales rose 10 percent over his breakout 2012. “Anybody can have a sale, but we ﬁnd our customers want to participate in something fun, something bigger,” Schifter says. “It’s not just another Saturday in our store.”

4. JOIN FORCES. Often led by a chamber of commerce or merchant association, small businesses are increasingly joining forces to generate attention and energy for the event. Shoppers in one California town, for instance, received a punch card to visit local shops and earned special offers and prizes along the way. Small Business Saturday’s Neighborhood Champion program, meanwhile, provides groups of 10 or more local businesses a free event kit with branded merchandise to help rally the community. “The spirit of Small Business Saturday comes alive when the community comes together,” Reyhle says.

5. OFFER SPECIAL INCENTIVES. During the holiday season, consumers have a seemingly unending appetite for deals, and it’s no different on Small Business Saturday. Last year, Casale Jewelers offered Good Work(s) bracelets to customers who

Compared with chain stores, local merchants pump a higher percentage of their revenue back into the local economy; some estimates show a nearly 4-to-1 difference.

2 Create jobs. According to the Planning to join stores like New Berlin’s Tobin Jewelers? October is the perfect time to start prepping.

Small Business Administration, small businesses create nearly twothirds of all new private-sector jobs.

3 Build home values. A Civic spent more than $150; Freedman Jewelers took $25 off any purchase over $150, a deal the store trumpeted on its blog, on social media outlets, and in an email to its customer database. Outside of product discounts, shops might also offer complimentary services, such as giftwrapping or engraving. “After all the buzz that Black Friday generates,” Freedman says, “we need to give people a reason to shop.” ■

THINKING OF PARTICIPATING IN SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY ON NOV. 29? Visit shopsmall.com for free marketing materials. Plus, discover which other neighborhood retailers are taking part!

Economics study found that home values in neighborhoods with a strong presence of independent businesses outperformed citywide markets by 50 percent.

4 Increase choices. A vibrant small business landscape delivers access to a wider array of goods and services, including offerings geared speciﬁcally to local needs.

Preserve communities. Shopping small helps sustain Main Street areas, town centers, and a community’s singular character.

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THE YOUNG AND THE EXCESS

HOW (THE OFTEN MISUNDERSTOOD) MILLENNIALS RELATE TO LUXURY, CONSUMPTION, SPENDING, AND THE RETAIL EXPERIENCE

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BY KRISTIN YOUNG

Millennials have been described as narcissistic and entitled; wimps raised by helicopter parents; trophy kids who receive rewards not just for winning but simply for participating in an event; and a group that lives in a digital world instead of a real one. They’ve also been called the boomerang, or Peter Pan, generation for delaying some rites of passage into adulthood. Many of-age millennials with jobs still live with their parents. And, because they have the family to fall back on, they can quit those jobs on a whim. “They are the most misunderstood generation that has ever existed,” says Jamie Gutfreund, chief marketing officer for Noise/The Intelligence Group, publishers of the Cassandra Report, which provides forecasts and insights on the youth market. Gen Y is the most technologically savvy and educated generation to date. They are the ﬁrst global generation— a group equally affected by news abroad and at home; they embrace other cultures, crave travel, and search for authentic experiences rather than material gains.

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Millennials are no strangers to renting, from gowns to jewels. For $392 per week ($1,412/month) at Haute Vault, you can rent these Oscar de la Renta blue diamond and blue topaz drops.

This de la Renta champagne quartz, yellow sapphire, and diamond cocktail ring rents for $510 per week ($1,836/month). Each piece retails for about $9,800.

They are notorious browsers, they shop anywhere and anytime, and they interact with brands—sometimes on a daily basis. Yet items sit in their online shopping carts; they don’t seem to need the validation of a purchase. If they are “faux-sumers,” as retailers and marketers have called them—the boomers’ sons and daughters, born between the early 1980s and about 2000—are also seen as the holy grail of future spending. The numbers are promising: Numbering 80 million in the United States alone, they are the largest generation since LVMH brand Kenzo (a Gen Y fave) opened the doors to its Paris workshop in summer 2013, giving select consumers a peek into its inner workings.

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their parents’. And, when they reach their peak in 2020, they are projected to spend $1.4 trillion annually, or 30 percent of total retail sales, according to a survey by business consulting ﬁrm Accenture. Millennials continue to evolve, and particularly so in the luxury segment. Unlike previous generations that gravitated to the “it” bag or brand-name object, millennials generally view luxury as something they do for themselves, not to impress others. Among millennials, 72 percent say luxury is about quality, according to Gutfreund, while 41 percent say that luxury is not about the object, but about the endurance of the object. “After the recession, they got used to not needing a bunch of stuff,” she says. “They are contending with fewer jobs and a higher student debt than any previous generation, and they have yet to build credit history. If you pin a Bulgari [piece on Pinterest], you’re in the know. You don’t necessarily have to buy it.” Millennials have a quirky relationship to ownership. When making a decision to purchase a big-ticket item, they give a lot of thought to its resale value. About a third of those surveyed by the Cassandra Report in 2013 said they had sold big-ticket items on sites like Craigslist within a six-month period. Almost half of them expressed an interest in renting high-end goods they need for an occasion, rather than paying full price to own them. They also think long-term, however, and are

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willing to spend more on investment pieces than on fast fashion or costume jewelry. “Luxury is relative to their income bracket,” says Gutfreund. “A pair of Dior double-sided earrings in the mid-$400s is a luxury item for many millennials. It’s got great resale value, is a classic, and makes a statement.” While a good share of millennials have yet to reach their peak career-wise (the oldest are 35), a number of them are gaining wealth quickly. This has been one of the biggest revelations to Milton Pedraza, CEO of the New York City–based Luxury Institute. “We are seeing a wealth barbell effect,” he says, adding that some wealthy millennials are extremely young and tend to work in Silicon Valley and Silicon Alley, in ﬁnancial services, and in the media. They are also beginning to inherit baby boomer wealth. “The wealthy are coming up faster and requiring luxury goods and services faster than expected,” Pedraza says. “We expected more of an evolution.” To millennials, a label matters—but not just for the label’s sake. They carefully consider brand reputation as well as their peers’ experiences with the brand. They also look for transparency, demand authenticity and ethical business practices, and respond particularly well when brands can tell a story or relate an item’s provenance. Last summer, LVMH threw open the doors to its private workshops in France, Italy, and Spain for the second edition of “Les Journées Particulières,” an invitation to the general public to see how the brand’s luxury items are made. The initiative was a phenomenal success, particularly with younger consumers, drawing a total of 120,000 visitors over the course of one weekend. While millennials want to hear a brand’s story, they also expect to be heard. Sometimes called “venture consumers,” millennials want to contribute both creatively and ﬁnancially to brands they believe in. And this is true not only for small brands but for international brands as well. “They think of themselves as consultants,” says Pedraza. “It’s not a one-way conversation. As a result, we’re seeing that millennials are far more willing to share data with you.” Millennials look for ways to have a say in what a brand makes or does. Therefore, they have high expectations from brands. They don’t consider an email from a brand to be spam as long as it is relevant—which puts the onus on brands and retailers to do the analytical work

to customize offers. “If they’re going to spend their money on a product, they’re investing in the brand,” says Gutfreund. “They want to be treated like a shareholder, and they have a stake in the outcome.” Gabriel & Co., a fine jewelry house in New York City, is helping independent retailers keep up with Gen Y’s digital tendencies with a host of initiatives, including its new Engaged eShop, proprietary software that can be embedded within a retailer’s website. The software allows users to search the brand’s inventory by materials, styles, and collection; offers 360-degree views of products; and provides real-time pricing info. Using eShop, retailers can offer their customers a complete online shopping experience without the need or expense of carrying physical inventory in the store. “We had to fight and to give the power back to the retailer,” says founder and CEO Jack Gabriel. “It’s very powerful to combine brick-andmortar with a professional website. [A program like eShop] would require hundreds of thousands of dollars in investment.” Businesses that reach millennials through multiple channels—brick-and-mortar, online, and mobile—will be the most effective. Just keep in mind that transparency works both ways. “They have an enforcement system on Facebook and YouTube—you’ll be famous very quickly if you screw the millennials,” says Pedraza. “You need to deliver what you promise.” As technology increases our social isolation, this generation responds extremely well to personal contact at the brick-and-mortar level. Baby boomers do research online and then go to a physical retail presence to buy the item. Millennials do the reverse. They will head to a store for an experience—for example, Urban Outfitters flagship in New York City has made shopping fun for millennials by populating the store with chatty salespeople, and adding places to peruse retro cameras and a photo booth that lets them post images on Instagram. But don’t be surprised if they walk out of a store and purchase the goods online. “Fundamentally human needs have not changed,” Pedraza says. “The way people go after them has changed. Human beings matter a lot, and relationships matter more than ever.” ■

5 HOW AND GEN Y Capture the millennial consumer in ﬁve easy steps:

Even if they’re not buying it, they’re coveting—and pinning—it. This Bulgari amethyst, rubellite, and diamond necklace ($79,000; bulgari. com) represents the ultimate aspiration jewel.

Brick-and-mortar needs to be unique.

1 Tell your story, and be authentic and transparent.

2 Create a unique brick-andmortar experience; ensure that it is sensory and relevant.

3 Provide plenty of information (in ﬁne jewelry, there’s tremendous room in for education) and avenues for feedback; you will be rewarded with vast amounts of consumer data.

4 Do the analytical work to personalize offers and services.

5 Build relationships and foster person-to-person contact.

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GILTY PLEASURES

’TIS THE SEASON TO BREAK OUT YOUR BIGGEST, BEST, AND MOST COMPLETELY DAZZLING JEWELS. WITH CHROMATIC COCKTAIL RINGS AND GLEAMING DIAMOND BRACELETS, YOU’LL BE THE LIFE—AND THE ENVY—OF EVERY PARTY.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TED MORRISON

PRIMP & POLISH

STYLING BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI

Fragrance: Cartier La Panthère Eau de Parfum, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb; lipstick: Chanel; pocket mirror: Boucheron. Ring in 18k gold with pink tourmaline and diamonds, $7,645, Erica Molinari, NYC, 212-741-7098, ericamolinari.com; Jane en Tremblant hair ornament in resin and steel with 22k gold-washed silver and white topaz over foil, $2,900, Larkspur & Hawk at LUXE Intelligence, NYC, 212-398-9700, larkspurandhawk.com; necklace in 18k gold with rock crystal in 22k gold bezels, $5,500, Madhuri Parson, NYC, 917-740-3391, madhuriparson.com; ring in platinum with 18k gold and brownish-pink and colorless diamonds, bracelet in platinum and 18k gold with diamonds, prices on request, David Mor, Great Neck, N.Y., 800-344-7847, brandon@davidmorny.com

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Red lips and ﬁngertips provide a perfect backdrop.

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GIFT RAPT Deciding which brand-new bling to wearâ&#x20AC;Ś Phoenix bracelet in 18k gold with orange sapphires and yellow diamonds, $12,900, Mimi So, NYC, 212-300-8620, mimiso.com; ring in 18k gold with moonstone, tsavorite, and diamonds, $5,500, Temple St. Clair, NYC, 212-219-8664, templestclair.com; ring in 18k gold with pink tourmaline and sapphires, $19,600, V. Tse, Pasadena, Calif., 626-5779288, angie@victoriatse.com; Starburst earrings in 14k gold with pink tourmaline and green and blue sapphires, $6,200, Madhuri Parson, NYC, 917740-3391, madhuriparson.com

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MYSTERY DATE Who is she? And did you see those jewels? Bella Starburst earrings in 18k gold with white quartz over foil and gray pearls, $5,000, Larkspur & Hawk at LUXE Intelligence, NYC, 212-3989700, larkspurandhawk.com; ring in 18k gold with pink tourmaline and diamonds, $13,500, Anahita at LUXE Intelligence, NYC, 212-3989700, anahitajewelry.com

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DRINK IT IN Mix scotch on the rocks with a stack of ice. Glass: Baccarat. Hampton cable bracelet in silver with gray diamonds, blue sapphires, and lavender spinel, $4,700, David Yurman, NYC, 212-752-4255, davidyurman.com; bracelet in platinum and 18k yellow gold with emeralds and yellow and colorless diamonds, $124,000, David Mor, Great Neck, N.Y., 800-344-7847, brandon@davidmorny.com; vintage Mauboussin bracelet in platinum and 18k gold with diamonds, price on request, Siegelson, NYC, 212-832-2666, siegelson. com; Three Graces singledouble convertible ring in 18k gold with rubellite and diamonds, $40,000, Madstone Design at LUXE Intelligence, NYC, 212-3989700, madstonedesign.com

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LEAVING LADY On to the next fete! Ah, the life of luxuryâ&#x20AC;Ś Hat: H&M; clutch: Badgley Mischka; jumpsuit: Electric Feathers. Necklace in 14k gold with tanzanite and diamonds, $122,398, Le Vian, Great Neck, N.Y., 877-253-8426, levian. com; ring in 14k gold with citrine and diamonds, $2,700, Estenza, San Francisco, 855-378-3692, estenza.com; bracelet in 18k gold with pink spinel and diamonds, $16,350, Bavna, Los Angeles, 213489-1170, bavna.com; ring in 18k gold with amethyst, $2,500, Goshwara at LUXE Intelligence, NYC, 212-3989700, goshwara.com

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■ THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

SHOWBIZ Miami Heat

Jewelers International Showcase hits Miami Beach

HOLIDAY HELPER

BY JENNIFER HEEBNER

Just in time for last-minute holiday purchases, the JA Special Delivery show takes place Oct. 26–28 at New York City’s Javits Center.

It’s no secret that vendors heading to the JIS Miami Beach Show at the Miami Beach Convention Center Oct. 11–14 go largely to meet with their Caribbean and Latin American retail customers. But color-savvy buyers from all regions would do well to check out the longstanding show’s exhibitors, many of whom excel in the gemstone space. San Francisco–based Belle Étoile is returning for the eighth year, both for the Latin American shoppers, who appreciate the firm’s colorful silver and enamel styles, and for the show, which they describe as very well organized. “The Caribbean loves all of our color and floral- and fauna-style pieces,” says Belle Étoile executive vice president Carolyn Thamkul. “JIS is actually our number-two show after JCK Las Vegas.” Thamkul is bringing a special collection of styles with enamel colors including brown, black, champagne, and ivory, plus several reds and greens. Patterns will be abstract or woven, with a few wacky looks—Canadian geese, for instance—in the mix. “It’s a very winter-oriented holiday collection,” says Thamkul, who’s also taking stackable bangles, rings, and hoop earrings to the show. New JIS vendor Bhansali, which debuted to the trade at this year’s LUXURY show in Las Vegas, is going to JIS as well. The company, whose jewelry appeared on the cover of JCK’s “Best in Show” July–August issue, already has seven retail accounts, and is hoping to acquire more. Codesigner Anar Bhansali, who runs the Los Angeles firm with her brother Tej, is bringing 18k gold pieces with diamonds set into gemstones, double-sided gem-set bangles, and pearls inset with stones. “We’ll bring our three collections—One, Hope, and Soul—as well as our one-of-a-kind Couture collection,” Anar says. “We have heard that a lot of South American buyers like color.” ■

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Earrings in 18k gold and silver with chrome diopside and diamonds; $6,938; ZDNY & Co., Huntington, N.Y.; 631-673-9844; zdnyco.com

2 Corset ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.22 ct. t.w. diamonds; $449; World Trade Jewelers, NYC; 212-983-0412; worldtradejewelers.com

3 Bangle in stainless steel with black enamel and crystals; $219; Quality Gold, Fairﬁeld, Ohio; 800-354-9833; qgold.com Yin yang bracelet in 18k white gold with 1.5 cts. t.w. diamonds set into black onyx and white quartz; $7,650; Bhansali Jewelry, Los Angeles; 213-623-8483; bhansalijewelry.com

Pendant necklace in 18k gold with white topaz over charcoalgray hematite with diamonds and black rhodium; $1,450; Doves by Doron Paloma, Great Neck, N.Y.; 888-6636837; dovesjewelry.com

5 Starburst bracelet

➔

JCKONLINE.COM FOR THE LATEST GLOBAL SHOW COVERAGE

in 14k yellow gold with moonstone, clear topaz, and diamonds; $3,650; Anzie, Montreal; 888-3412604; anzie.com

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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■ THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

THEVAULT SWEET IDEAS The earrings, says Gulati, “embody the Mirari essence: contemporary, classic, and with great attention to detail.” The designer says she’s perennially inspired by nature, history, and royalty “for their classic trends, beauty, and mysterious personas. You will see a lot of Mughal inspiration in my collection.”

AWESOME BLOSSOMS The 18k pink gold earrings (each just 6 cm long!) feature 2.65 cts. t.w. diamonds and 33.17 cts. t.w. Mozambique rubies, pink and orange sapphires, and Zambian emeralds. Each diamondbordered ﬂower is inlaid with orange and pink sapphires and rubies. At the center of each is a hexagonshape Mozambican ruby, surrounded by fancy-cut diamonds. The plump cherries are studded in rubies, and the twigs inlaid with Zambian emeralds.

JUICY FRUIT Gulati expanded on her delectable motif in a matching necklace, also for Gemﬁelds, which boasts a double strand of ruby-wrapped cherries with bigger, more intricate blossoms and foliage. “Creating the parure was a labor of love,” she says. “Several artisans contributed…and it is entirely handcrafted.”

Cherries Jubilee FROM MINE TO STORE

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When Gemfields, the renowned producer of ethically sourced rare colored gemstones, asked Mira Gulati to create a piece of jewelry inspired by the notion of blossoming—for an auction that raises funds for quality education for 2,000 young girls—she immediately thought of cherry blossoms. The delicate, short-lived flowers “bring hope and dreams of greater things to come,” says New Delhi– based Gulati, one of 10 fine jewelry designers from India invited to participate in Gemfields’ Project Blossoming initiative. The pale pink flowers “resonate with the innocence and charm of little girls,” says Gulati, the founder of the Mirari atelier. “Little girls bring smiles to all, just as a blooming flower does. And the flower eventually turns into fruit—nature’s way of giving. Our contribution comes with a similar idea: watching a girl go through a significant stage in life.” —Emili Vesilind

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BRIDAL

THEVAULT NEWS, STATS, SALES

Raising the Bar Pin

HELLO YELLOW!

About five years ago, Julie Bergstein Romanenko, the designer behind the Just Jules line, bought a vintage bar pin because she loved the locket attached to it. She ended up keeping the pin because of its pretty scrolling vines and floral motif. But she sat with the flea market find for two years, unsure of what, if anything, to do with it. Then inspiration hit. “I thought it would make a killer ring,” Romanenko tells JCK. So she started collecting more vintage bar pins (so far, she has eight, all with varying types of flowers and vines). She plans to cast them, and carve waxes to make a series of unique Art Nouveau reproductions for a bridal jewelry line in 14k gold. The Scottsdale, Ariz.–based designer unveiled 15 floral SKUs as part of her new bridal jewelry collection at this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, with suggested retail prices ranging from $880 for a band to $1,500 for a semi-mount. A couple of cuffs are also available. “I love that floral and vine pattern,” she says. “For me, everything has to be about texture. Plus, vintage jewelry tells a story, and if you can re-create a story by taking something old and making something new out of it, then that piece will also have a connection.” —Jennifer Heebner

If you needed any further proof that yellow gold is back in bridal, behold the Tacori Gold line. The collection was unveiled at LUXURY in Las Vegas— a followup to its 2013 Pretty in Pink collection of rose gold bridal rings. For Tacori Gold, the company studied the brand archives and selected key styles to remake in a proprietary yellow gold alloy that “shines and sparkles in a distinctive way, similar to Chanel White,” says Michelle Adorjan Chila, senior vice president of marketing and public relations. To date, there are 12 SKUs in the 18k gold line, including engagement rings, wedding bands, diamond earrings, and pendants. “Almost 100 retail partners have purchased Tacori Gold since our launch,” adds Chila. Of course, shoppers have always been able to special-order pieces in yellow and rose gold. “Having other metal colors available in-store showcases an ability to personalize to the customer’s taste,” explains Chila, “which we’ve found is something that consumers—especially millennials—demand.” —JH

Vine band in 14k yellow gold; $880; Just Jules, Scottsdale, Ariz.; 480-860-6211; justjules.com

Semi-mount in 18k yellow gold with 1.28 cts. t.w. diamonds; $9,590; Tacori, Glendale, Calif.; 800-421-9844; tacori.com

Just Jules ﬂoral band in 14k yellow gold with 1.5 ct. rose-cut diamond and 0.15 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds; $3,520

“We don’t sell halos or solitaires as much—we’re selling everything in between. Complete diamond engagement rings tend to sell for an average of $5,000 to $7,000, and the settings are still pretty much all white. We’re also not ﬁnancing that much, as couples seem to have the money. Rings from A. Jaffe and Levy out of Chicago sell best.” —JERRY MILLER, OWNER-PRESIDENT, WINK’S FINE JEWELRY, BROOKINGS, S.D.

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JCKONLINE.COM FOR THE LATEST I DO! NEWS

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GOLD

THEVAULT NEWS, STATS, SALES

King cuff and Queen cuff in 14k gold, Pawn cuff in 14k gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. rubies and a turquoise accent, $1,517–$2,850, Michelle Fantaci at MUSE, NYC; 866-301-6873; michellefantaci.com

Pawn Star Michelle Fantaci’s new Chess Queen collection shines the light on girl power in a brainy and understated way. The 20-SKU collection made in 14k gold is, not surprisingly, inspired by the game—and by the queen, in particular. “The queen piece has the most power and ﬂexibility, and is the king’s protector,” explains the New York City–based jewelry designer. “So I wanted the pieces to demonstrate a toughness that is feminine and doesn’t have to announce itself, in the same way that the queen doesn’t have to prove she is the most powerful player—she just is.” To capture the dynamics and movement of the game, Fantaci created nesting cuffs with game piece silhouettes like King, Queen, and Pawn that can spoon together or touch end to end for a wider statement across the arm, while her Checkmate pinky ring—the most literal representation—bears an intaglio of the queen. “Most pieces are more abstract and emotive,” Fantaci adds. “The scalloped edges that appear throughout the collection are inspired by the queen’s

Michelle Fantaci Checkmate pinky ring in 14k gold with 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,350

WINGING IT Brazilian jeweler H.Stern’s latest collection celebrates birds and butterﬂies with a decidedly urban spin. Rock Season features winged creatures with spiked details in various shades of gold, including rose gold as well as the retailer’s proprietary Noble and darkened Noble Golds—all of which provide a fetching contrast to the Victorian- and natureinspired rings, earrings, pendants, and bracelets. The shading of the gold also suggests the changing of the seasons, while morganite, emeralds, and colorless and brown diamonds evoke the earth’s variable temperatures. The collection comprises 23 SKUs to date, retailing from $1,700 to $282,000. —JH

crown, and the King, Queen, and Pawn rings and cuffs represent each game piece.” To a lesser extent, Queen Elizabeth I—at 44 years, her reign made her the longest-ruling queen in England’s history—was another source of inspiration. Chess Queen debuted at Couture 2014, and seven retailers have placed orders thus far. Fantaci introduced 12 more SKUs, including delicate pendant necklaces, during the recent Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Retail prices for pieces with a variety of gemstones—from rubies to pink sapphires to moonstone and Russian demantoid—range from $800 to $6,000. —Jennifer Heebner

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JCKONLINE.COM FOR THE HOTTEST GOLD NEWS

“In gold fashion, cable design bangles—both hard and ﬂex—have been really popular in 14 karat yellow, white, and rose gold. We merchandise them all together because we think it looks great, and the best-selling price points in that category are $400 to $600.”

Rock Season earrings in 18k Noble Gold with 1.41 cts. t.w. diamonds; $2,700; H.Stern, NYC; 212-688-0300; hstern.net

—RYAN BLUMENTHAL, PRESIDENT, CORINNE JEWELERS, TOMS RIVER, N.J.

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JIS MIAMI SHOW OCTOBER 11-14 BOOTH #915

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COLORED STONES Cycles semi-mount in recycled 18k yellow gold with 0.34 ct. t.w. diamonds in organic vegetable ivory; $4,700; Irthly Jewelled Adornments, Los Angeles; 949478-4591; irthly.com

HOW DO YOU

Irthly Jewelled Adornments Fontaine pendant in recycled 18k rose gold with 1.39 cts. t.w. blue sapphire briolettes and 0.05 ct. t.w. diamonds in organic vegetable ivory; $3,000

Ivory Hour

“JCK MAGAZINE helps me understand what is going on in the industry, what directions are best for my business, and what vendors are up-and-coming.” — Quote from Retailer, Harvey Research JCK Subscriber Study

On a 2002 trip to Ecuador, David Alvarado, the designer behind Irthly Jewelled Adornments, saw vegetable ivory—a solid, creamy-white substance found inside tagua nuts throughout the Amazon— for the ﬁrst time. Alvarado, the son of a bench jeweler, was earning his master’s degree in Chinese and European comparative philosophy at San Diego State University, but the sight of the tagua seeds’ elephant ivory-like material, made into craft jewelry at Ecuadorian markets, stayed with him. While working on his thesis, Alvarado and his wife were expecting their ﬁrst child. The time seemed right to pursue the simmering idea of jewelry design as a profession. A teaching from a favorite Chinese philosopher, Laozi, cinched the deal, Alvarado says: “In order to be wise, you have to return to the foundation or seed of things.” After earning his graduate degree in 2005, Alvarado shelved his teaching career and started working on his line with the help of his father. He obtained his business license in October 2012 and set up headquarters in Los Angeles.

Today, Alvarado, one of the 2014 JCK Las Vegas show’s Rising Stars, has 10 retail accounts, including Goldworks in Half Moon Bay, Calif., and The Mexican Shack in Somers, N.Y. Suggested retail prices for his Art Deco–inspired jewels start at $1,800 for recycled 18k gold with conﬂict-free diamonds, fair trade gems, and fair trade vegetable ivory. Next year he’ll debut an organic material from the honey bee’s ecosystem, a nod to the value of interconnectivity. “My brand is not just focused on the seed,” he says. “The point is to elevate other elements of our world that are just as precious as ﬁne jewelry.” —Jennifer Heebner

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JCKONLINE.COM FOR MORE COLORFUL GEMSTONE TALK

“Clients love pendants, especially paired with Tahitian pearls, and rings from Vanna K. Their variety of colors is hard to beat, and their price points aren’t intimidating for clients who are new to colored stones.” —REBECCA SHUKAN, OWNER, REBECCA SHUKAN JEWELRY, LOS ANGELES JCK MAGAZINE

JCK SHOWS

JCK MARKETPLACE

W W W. J C KO N L I N E .CO M

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE Midas Chain 50 McDermott Place Bergenﬁeld, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com

GN Diamond 800 Chestnut St. Philadelphia, PA 19107 Tel: 800-724-8810 Fax: 215-925-0217 Email: sales@gndiamond.com Website: gndiamond.com

This LightZ Supreme collection of sparkling and highly polished sterling silver is absolutely breathtaking. The image does not even begin to show the ﬁery and shimmering effect that they exude live. MSRP: $470

Fancy this hot new style from GN Diamond. The 4.3 ct. square fancy deep yellow emerald is set in a handmade platinum/18k yellow gold mounting with 1 ct. t.w. kite-shape diamonds on the sides.

Hoover & Strong 10700 Trade Road Richmond, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com Incomparable quality and ﬂawless precision describe our wide selection of machineset bands. Most orders delivered in ﬁve business days, and all are manufactured using 100 percent recycled Harmony Metals.

KC Designs 64 W. 48th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-921-9270 Fax: 212-768-9073 Email: info@kcdesignsnyc.com Website: kcdesignsnyc.com Keep it simple. KC Designs introduces a new collection of gold and diamond jewelry inspired by the simplicity and elegance of geometric shapes.

Super Bell Jewelry 606 S. Olive St., 20th Floor Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-362-2773 Fax: 213-612-4404 Email: info@sbjonline.com Website: sbjonline.com Exquisite designs mimic the stackable look. These in-trend pieces in rose gold capture the hearts of all. We’re showcasing at these upcoming shows: JIS Miami, Booth 421-524, and JA SD, Booth 1814-1915.

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Gabriel & Co. 545 W. 45th St., 3rd Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-886-5422 Fax: 646-273-1611 Email: marketing@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Our signature Byblos collection features an array of stunning bangles inspired by the ancient Mediterranean Phoenician city. Glistening with white sapphires, purple jade, and rock crystal stones, these look perfect for any occasion.

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE

Effy Jewelry 15 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 855-ASK-EFFY Email: inquiries@effyjewlery.com Website: effyjewelry.com From Effy’s Nature collection, this butterﬂy pendant in 14k rose gold features diamonds and tsavorites (11.2 cts. t.w. gemstones). Available by special order.

Southern Gates® Collection P.O. Box 239 Charleston, SC 29402 Tel: 800-845-6964 Fax: 843-722-1377 Email: info@southerngatesjewelry.com Website: southerngatesjewelry.com Our new link bracelet from the best-selling Southern Gates collection is inspired by historic wrought iron gates. This ﬁne collection of sterling silver has become a fan favorite in jewelry stores nationwide. Shop the fall collection online.

Frank Reubel Designs

Rahaminov Diamonds

733 Beville Road South Daytona, FL 32119 Tel: 386-761-6945 Fax: 386-761-5729 Email: frd1000@aol.com Website: frankreubeldesigns.com

550 S. Hill St., Suite 1015 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: jamie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com

Welcome fall with warm-colored styles from Frank Reubel Designs. This ring (style MR4101R/C/MCIT) has a 1 ct. Madeira citrine and 0.40 ct. t.w. diamonds. View more designs online, or contact us to request a visit from our sales representatives!

Two gorgeous green-blue tourmalines weighing 9.17 cts. t.w. are the focus of these elegant dangle earrings (style CS-1234). There are four larger round diamonds, all accented by white diamond melee set in 18k white gold.

Elisa Ilana Jewelry

Jewelex New York Ltd.

13132 Davenport St. Omaha, NE 68154 Tel: 402-926-3479 Fax: 413-328-6111 Email: tgullyes@elisailana.com Website: elisailana.com

529 Fifth Ave., 18th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 800-208-9999 Email: jewelry.us@jewelexgroup.com Website: jewelexgroup.com

Elisa Ilana’s Highborn ruby bracelet features a pretty white topaz accent set in 22k gold-clad silver. SKU: 347684. MSRP: $280

From the Oriana® Lace collection, this timeless platinum semi-mounting features round and baguette diamonds with raised lace scroll details set with diamonds. It’s a vision of pure elegance.

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE

Platini 23 W. 47th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-764-7845 Fax: 212-768-1142 Email: platini18k@aol.com Website: platinijewelry.com Lustrous 18k white, yellow, and rose gold rings with diamonds accents and stylish adornments. Affordable elegance for day and night. From $1,000 keystone.

CadBlu 37 W. 28th St., 9th Floor New York, NY 10001 Tel: 212-481-8700 Fax: 212-481-8737 Email: info@cadblu.com Website: cadblu.com We have a full line of CAD/CAM software, 3D printers, and great support and service. Our new desktop 3D printer is available for under $5,000. Awarded best equipment, tool, and services vendor by JCK.

ASHI Diamonds 18 E. 48th St., 14th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 800-622-2744 Website: ashidiamonds.com

Stuller Inc.

Experience love this holiday season with ASHI’s exquisite bridal collection and fashion jewelry. Our marketing program incorporates print to digital marketing, e-commerce, and merchandising strategies essential for establishing your store as the jewelry destination in your market.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com With quality showcases, in-case and overhead lighting, wall coverings, and signage, Interiors by Stuller will help you create the store you’ve always wanted. Visit stuller. com/interiors to learn more.

Rembrandt Charms Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company 24 Jewelers Park Drive P.O. Box 468 Neenah, WI 54957-0468 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: yourinsuranceexpert@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Founded by jewelers for jewelers, Jewelers Mutual is the only insurance company dedicated solely to the jewelry industry in the United States and Canada.

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370 S. Youngs Road Williamsville, NY 14221 Tel: 800-828-7840 Fax: 800-828-7811 Email: rqc@rembrandtcharms.com Website: rembrandtcharms.com The Symbols & Expressions® collection from Rembrandt Charms™ allows your customers to create their own expression by choosing charms that deﬁne them. This collection is available in sterling silver.

JCK OCTOBER 2014 jckonline.com

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE

Alliance Corporation

Artistry Ltd.

402 Brookletts Ave. Easton, MD 21601 Tel: 877-770-8494 Email: mweller@scratchfreepackaging.com Website: scratchfreepackaging.com

8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com

Customize our nonabrasive pouches with your image to create a special presentation with each delivery. Attain scratch-free and anti-tarnish protection for your products while they are in transit and storage.

Captivating mosaic of blue topaz gems and diamonds in 14k white gold. Adjustable 18-inch necklace, $660; earrings, $880; ring, $770 (MSRP). Same-day shipping. Call for a catalog.

Fanous Jewelers Inc. 14160 N. Dallas Parkway, Suite 110 Dallas, TX 75254 Tel: 800-527-6938 Fax: 214-265-8807 Email: sales@fanous.com Website: fanous.com

TGS Jewelers 36-16 30th Ave. Astoria, NY 11103 Tel: 347-832-0123 Email: support@tgsbands.com Website: tgsbands.com

With over 40 years of experience, we are proud to introduce you to the ﬁrst place, award-winning True Romance diamond ring, handcrafted in ﬁne metal and highlighted by precious stones.

Introducing our machine-manufactured diamond wedding bands, which are in stock and ready to ship in 24 hours. Thousands of designs in multiple diamond qualities, metals, and sizes. Made in USA.

Royal Chain Group Herco 26 O’Farrell St., Suite 600 San Francisco, CA 94108 Tel: 415-543-1580 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com 18k yellow gold horse head cuff bangle.

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Website: angelicacollection.com Introducing A Christmas Story™ from the Angelica collection. Exclusively licensed from Turner Entertainment Co., this bracelet is available in silver and gold tones and is easily adjustable. Manufactured in the USA from recycled materials. Angelica bracelets make great holiday gifts.

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE

ArtCarved 154 West 14th St. New York, NY 10011 Tel: 800-221-3232 Fax: 800-332-9344 Email: artcarvedsales@fgoldman.com Website: artcarvedbridal.com Since 1850, ArtCarved has handcrafted high-quality, elegant, and timeless engagement rings and wedding bands for your customers to wear every day, forever.

Elisa Ilana Jewelry 13132 Davenport St. Omaha, NE 68154 Tel: 402-926-3479 Fax: 413-328-6111 Email: tgullyes@elisailana.com Website: elisailana.com Elisa Ilana’s Beneath the Moon tourmaline necklace features a Galatea carved South Sea pearl. SKU: 348525. MSRP: $300

Roman + Jules by First Image Design 98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 231 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-498-8282 Email: shawn@ﬁrstimagedesign.com Website: romanandjules.com With the perfect combination of yellow, rose, and white gold, this ring showcases three yellow diamonds, each set in its own halo. Pink and yellow pavé-set diamonds adorn the shank. Something for everyone to love! MSRP: $7,475

White Pine Trading 535 Fifth Ave., 18th Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 646-798-4825 Fax: 212-869-3032 Email: jewelry@whitepinediamonds.com Website: whitepinediamonds.com White Pine has a huge and constantly changing inventory of branded, estate, antique, and ﬁne jewelry at strong values. Contact us today to view our new and exciting product collections in all price ranges.

Getana & Co. 47-09 30th St., Annex Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 718-786-2900 Fax: 718-361-2148 Email: getanausa@aol.com Getana & Co. presents a new handcrafted collection of precious gemstones in 18k gold. Inspired by love and passion.

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Le Vian Chocolatier® Tel: 877-2LEVIAN, 516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Discover the latest innovative designs from Le Vian Chocolatier®, including this 14k Strawberry Gold® Sinuous Swirls™ ring centered and banded with Chocolate Diamonds®, exclusively by Le Vian®, and accented with swirls of Vanilla Diamonds®.

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE Unique Settings of New York 31-00 47th Ave., 2nd Floor Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 718-247-4500 Fax: 718-425-9953 Email: info@uniquesettings.com Website: uniquesettings.com

Rahaminov Diamonds 550 S. Hill St., Suite 1015 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: jamie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com

This elegant diamond tennis bracelet (style TBR118) shines with incredible brilliance. The round brilliant-cut diamonds (7.5 cts. t.w.) are placed in a prong setting to create a magniﬁcent classic style. MSRP: $27,450

This colorful and enchanting oval-shape paraiba cabochon pendant (style CS-1269) is a stunning 16.65 cts., completely surrounded by white diamond melee, all set in 18k yellow gold.

Charles & Colvard 170 Southport Drive Morrisville, NC 27560 Tel: 919-468-0399 Fax: 919-468-0486 Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Website: charlesandcolvard.com

TD Retail Card Services 1000 MacArthur Blvd. Mahwah, NJ 07430 Tel: 201-818-4000 Fax: 201-818-6457 Email: john.piotrowsky@td.com Website: tdrcs.com/jck

Forever Brilliant®, our ﬁnest moissanite, is now available in emerald cuts. The large surface area of this shape is ideal for moissanite, since clarity tends to be its deﬁning feature.

The right choice: TD Retail Card Services’ L.J.C. card is a full-featured, revolving private-label credit card specially created for independent retailers of jewelry and other luxury products.

Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com One thousand pages of all the jewelry Stuller has to offer: our most up-to-date, comprehensive assortment of product available. It’s our Jewelry 2015–2016 catalog, and it’s coming to your store October 15.

Sarine Technologies Email: info@sarineus.com Website: sarine.com Sarine Light™ is a scientiﬁc light performance measuring method and grading standard, directly measuring brilliance, sparkle, ﬁre, and light symmetry without manual interpretation, calculating the total light performance grade.

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE

Ande Jewelry Inc. Guertin Brothers 1420 Coulter Drive, NW Roanoke, VA 24012 Tel: 540-362-4164 Email: sales@guertinbrothers.com Website: guertinbrothers.com Our ring (style FY212) is both bold and elegant. The gold two-tone band is 8 mm wide and made with 14k white and yellow gold. Every ring is completely unique as each band is hand-ﬁnished. Available in sizes 4–12½.

S.P.B. Gems/ S.P.B. Creations

503 Wando Park Blvd., Suite 205 Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 Tel: 800-347-1500 Fax: 843-881-3387 Email: info@silvermanconsultants.com Website: silvermanconsultants.com

Announcing our 2014 gemstone catalog featuring glittering diamonds, bold colored stones, mesmerizing beads, and vibrant cabochons. We focus on satisfying customers by offering quality gemstones at great prices. Visit us at JIS Miami, Booth 656 and JA New York, Booth 1280.

House of Baguettes 580 Fifth Ave., Suite Mezz-B New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-840-0042 Fax: 212-840-0228 Email: jsengul@aol.com Website: houseofbaguettes.com We’ve been dealing with diamond jewelry for generations, and our creations are based on craftsmanship and artistry. The result is an exquisite and extensive collection of bridal and fashion jewelry.

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Brand-name quality at affordable prices. Ande is the best manufacturer for your colored stone jewelry.

Silverman Consultants

15 W. 47th St., Suite 709 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-719-5170 Fax: 212-391-0062 Email: info@spbgems.com Website: spbgems.com

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510 W. Sixth St., Suite 728 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-239-6767 Fax: 213-239-6768 Email: sales@andejewelry.com Website: andejewelry.com

An industry leader in sales strategies and promotions for jewelers. We’ve been providing guidance since 1945 to store owners seeking to turn around a business, sell off unwanted inventory, or liquidate an entire store.

Earstuds USA 5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com For customers craving individuality and style, these pear-shape diamond drop earrings are perfect. Diamonds (8.22 cts. t.w.) are mounted in 18k white gold with a halo of round brilliants and matching oval diamonds (2.14 cts. t.w.) on top. JIS Miami Booth 915.

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JCK CLASSIFIEDS THE #1 MAGAZINE IN THE INDUSTRY â&#x2013; AFFORDABLE â&#x2013; EFFECTIVE CAREER OPPORTUNITIES JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES The Nation's Largest Restyle Event 6XFFHVVIXO UHVW\OH FRPSDQ\ VHHNV H[SHUL Company SeeksVDOHV Experienced Jewelry Sales HQFHG MHZHOU\ UHSUHVHQWDWLYHV DQG Representatives and Bench Jewelers who EHQFK MHZHOHUV 6DODU\ SOXV FRPPLVVLRQV are free to travel and ready for the financial . . VFKHGXOH QR successWR that working3UH VHW for a great company FROG ZHHNV SHU \HDU WUDYHO offers.FDOOV Salary plus commissions $60K to $100K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 UHTXLUHG VHFXULW\ SURYLGHG %HQHILWV weeks per year travel required, security LQFOXGH ERQXVHV N DQG SURILW VKDU provided. bonuses, 401K LQJ SODQV Benefits GHQWDO include SDLG KHDOWK DQG OLIH and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health LQVXUDQFH FRPPXWLQJ DOORZDQFH SDLG and life insurance, commuting allowance, WUDYHO H[SHQVHV DQG YDFDWLRQ paid travel expenses and vacation.

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Dunkinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diamonds Sales & Managers SW Florida & Ohio Jewelry Sales Background Flexible Hours, FT Top pay, excellent beneďŹ ts 401k, Pd vac. 239-822-1022 Email resume to hr@dunkins.net

Seeking a highly motivated, responsible & professional sales representative to join our sales team onboard a Luxury Cruise line. The ideal candidate must have a proven experience with high-end jewelry sales and a ďŹ&#x201A;exible schedule to be away for up to three months at a time. Please submit your resume to karen@hubertgem.com

Seeking joint venture/business partner experienced in Sales & Digital Marketing for start-up e-commerce. www.palladora.com is turnkey, fully customized with on-the-ďŹ&#x201A;y technology for Admin/Public rights. All jewelry is CAD/CAM designed & manufactured in-house. Contact: rolandhe2014@gmail.com

R E P S WA N T E D

Jewelry Appraisers Join the Nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Largest Appraisal Event Company We are seeking GIA Graduate Gemologist Appraisers that must be willing to travel. Several Territories available on the East and West coast.

49 SUCCESSFUL YEARS Elegant, unique estate pieces. Victorian to todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s treasures. All price categories â&#x20AC;&#x201C; on consignment. Pick your passion. Frank Axelrod P.O. Box 1821, Philadelphia PA 19105 (215) 735-6749 Fax: (215) 546-4344

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Luxury Watch and Fine Jewelry Sales Associate Arizonaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading destination for Fine Jewelry and Luxury Watches is continually enhancing our team of dedicated professionals. We are currently seeking Luxury Watch and Fine Jewelry Sales Associates. Please visit hamra.com for further details (on our homepage under careers) or email directly to info@hamra.com

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DROP-SHIPPING RETAILERS WANTED Manufacturer and distributor of high-quality magnetic and germanium jewelry in titanium and surgical steel. Visit us at www.divotiusa.com/dropship to learn more.

COSTAR Imports is hiring experienced sales reps to represent our Bridal Line. Most Territories Available. Delivery Goods, Loose Diamonds & Credit Terms available. Generous commissions with incentives! Send resumes to costarimportsinc@gmail.com or call Avi/Ram at 888-726-7827. www.costarimports.com

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JCK ADVERTISING INDEX AGTA pg. 71

Elisa Ilana pg. 13

K.K. Gem Investments pg. 50

Silverman Consultants pg. 121

Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162

Website: elisailana.com Email: customerservice@elisailana.com Phone: 402-926-3479

Website: facebook.com/kkgigem Email: kkgi@sbcglobal.net Toll-Free: 800-332-2289 Fax: 213-622-1132

Website: silvermanconsultants.com Toll-Free: 800-347-1500

Allison-Kaufman Company pg. 91 Website: allison-kaufman.com Email: info@allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150

Fremada pg. 73 Website: fremada.com Email: info@fremada.com Toll-Free: 800-822-1213

KC Designs pg. 43

America’s Silver Collection pg. 37

Future Designs Lighting pg. 38

Le Vian Corporation pg. Inside Front Cover

Website: kcdesignsnyc.com Toll-Free: 800-552-3790

SPB Gems pg. 36 Website: spbgems.com Email: info@spbgems.com Phone: 212-719-5170

Sterling Reputation pg. 75 Website: asc925.com Email: sales@asc925.com Phone: 713-773-4111 Fax: 713-773-4112

Ande Jewelry Inc. pg. 21 Website: andejewelry.com Email: sales@andejewelry.com Phone: 213-239-6767 Fax: 213-239-6768

ArtCarved pg. Back Cover

Website: futuredesigns.us Email: futuredesigns1@hotmail.com Phone: 305-871-8774 Toll-Free: 800-326-4256 Fax: 305-871-8786

Gabriel & Co. pg. 67 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 646-273-1644 Toll-Free: 800-886-5422

Getana & Co.™ pg. 72

Email: artcarvedbridalsales@fgoldman.com Toll-Free: 800-221-3232

Email: mr-wle@earthlink.net Phone: 718-786-2900 Fax: 718-361-2148

Artistry, Ltd. pg. 26

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover

Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208

Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Fax: 760-603-4080

Website: levian.com Email: customerservice@levian.com Phone: 516-466-7200 Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN Fax: 516-466-7201

MARS pg. 77 Website: marsjewelry.com Toll-Free: 888-592-MARS

Miami Antique Jewelry & Watch Show pg. 45 Website: antiquejewelrymiami.com Email: show.info@usantiqueshows.com Phone: 239-732-6642

Midas pg. 25 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Ashi Diamonds pg. 63

Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Toll-Free: 866-845-0140

Stuller, Inc. pg. 2–3 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Phone: 337-262-7700 Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Toll-Free Fax: 800-444-4741

Super Bell Jewelry pg. 81 Website: sbjonline.com Phone: 213-362-2773 Fax: 213-612-4404

Sylvie Collection pg. 28 Website: sylviecollection.com

Synchrony Financial (formerly GE Capital) pg. 29, 34 Website: synchronybusiness.com/luxury Toll-Free: 855-433-3772

Website: ashidiamonds.com Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Phone: 212-319-8391 Toll-Free: 800-622-ASHI Fax: 212-319-4341

GN Diamond pg. 17

Nelson pg. 48L5

Website: gndiamond.com Email: sales@gndiamond.com Toll-Free: 800-724-8810 Fax: 215-925-0217

Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

TD Retail Card Services pg. 40

Belair Time Corporation pg. 24

Guertin Brothers pg. 9

Platini Jewelry pg. 1

TGS Jewelers pg. 54

Website: beltime.com Email: belair@beltime.com Phone: 732-905-0100 Toll-Free: 800-223-1654 Fax: 732-367-3215

Website: guertinbrothers.com Email: sales@guertinbrothers.com Toll-Free: 800-225-3141

Website: platinijewelry.com Email: platini18k@aol.com Phone: 212-764-7845

Website: tgsbands.com Phone: 347-832-0123

BELLARRI pg. 19 Website: bellarri.com Email: customerservice@bellarri.com Toll-Free: 800-255-0192

Belle Étoile pg. 65 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728

Herco pg. 10 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Phone: 415-543-1580 Fax: 415-398-3699

Heritage Gold Collection pg. 4–5 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Hoover & Strong pg. 41

Website: cadblu.com Email: info@cadblu.com Phone: 212-481-8700

Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 Toll-Free Fax: 800-616-9997

Charles & Colvard Ltd. pg. 32, 35

House of Baguettes pg. 69, 70

Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Phone: 919-468-0399 Fax: 919-468-0486

Website: houseofbaguettes.com Toll-Free: 800-603-1550

CadBlu pg. 47

Cicada Jewelry pg. 48L3

JCK Events pg. 6–7, 42 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Website: cicadajewelry.com

Dora International pg. 31 Website: dorarings.com Phone: 973-244-1344

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company pg. 57

Earstuds USA pg. 119

Website: jewelersmutual.com Email: yourinsuranceexpert@jminsure.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401

Website: earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-EAR-STUD

Jewelex Group pg. 79, 80 Website: jewelexgroup.com

Effy pg. 59 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY

Jye’s International pg. 48L1 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescrop@yahoo.com Phone: 415-621-8880

Website: tdrcs.com/jck Toll-Free: 866-729-7072 ext 3008

Tycoon pg. 48L8 Rembrandt Charms pg. 85 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7840

Rio Tinto Diamonds NV pg. 23 Website: riotintodiamonds.com Email: rtd.info@riotinto.com Phone: 32 3 303 68 00 Fax: 32 3 303 69 00

RJO pg. 58 Website: rjomembers.com Toll-Free: 800-247-1774

Roman + Jules by First Image Design pg. 115 Website: romanandjules.com Email: info@romanandjules.com

Royal India USA, Inc. pg. 83 Website: royalindiausa.com Email: sales@royalindiausa.com Phone: 212-616-7661 Toll-Free: 888-53-ROYAL Fax: 212-616-7666

Website: tycooncut.com Email: info@tycooncut.com Toll-Free: 800-258-7454 Fax: 818-548-1109

Unique Settings of New York® pg. 53 Website: uniquesettings.com Email: info@uniquesettings.com Phone: 718-247-4500 Toll-Free: 800-466-4900 Fax: 718-425-9953 Toll-Free Fax: 866-328-2167

Washington Diamonds pg. 39 Website: washingtondiamondscorp.com Email: info@washingtondiamondcorp.com Phone: 827-588-6018

White Pine Diamonds pg. 55 Website: whitepinediamonds.com/jewelry Email: jck@whitepinediamonds.com Phone: 646-798-4825

Wilkerson pg. 27 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949–1333

Sarine Technologies pg. 51 Website: sarine.com Phone: 646-727-4286

Ziva Jewels pg. 11 Website: zivajewels.com Email: sales@zivajewels.com Toll-Free: 800-227-2464

JCK (ISSN 1070-0242) is published monthly except combined issues in July/August and December/January, by MCMURRY/TMG LLC on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 228 East 45th Street, 7th Floor, New York, NY 10017. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK® is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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Brilliant BEDAZZLING SALE OF THE SEASON

$000,000 SOLD FOR $17,882,669

HeadTK Corsage à Trois

Pudi blaces siti ario vernam, offici sinctorem volorrum aut accus qui od etur? Qui dolupic teniet ut et accuptatus, odi aut velictur sant During the Belle Époque, decorated alibust otation resequi veleswomen doles dolut resethe their dresses with devant-deriambodices quiamof que num iduci dolum exerum corsage thisvolorum version by Cartier is licipsuntbrooches, porehentand autem volorum animpost masterpiece the form. Diamond magnate istionsofenienducitis que moditiorem. Solomon Joel commissioned At apic te Barnato omni corecusto consequi re,the sepiece quam with stones—a 34.08 ct. pear shape, a sant, three simusap erorum re ipsuntusam ut autem 23.55 ct.ptatur oval shape, andmin a 6.51 shape— nulloru sint ipid esemarquise ernatis expligfrom his own South African mines, and Cartier nam rerorepellab imagnimpore, erit, totatquam master Picq added lily-ofrernamcraftsman que officiisHenri eligendam aut arum sunt. Et the-valley links and heet verum volumqui ut pavé-set re namuspalms molorwhen aborro completed therectibus piece inmo 1912. Little wonder a doluptatur ipienditem rest, the quis brooch sold at Christie’s Geneva simaxim for $17.9 million. anditis consend icturen debitas ra adig“Our buyersvent are collectors, and true nat uscillut voles nus, investors, conecum quat. Vitem connoisseurs,” saysaut Rahul que estrupt inctur adisKadakia, sin numinternational eum hillupt head of jewelry at Christie’s. “When they see a aturecatem autem aut laborias et aut untius, masterpiece like this…they don’t want to miss an opportunity. How much are you ready to give for a unique work of art?” —Logan Sachon 132

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“Its near-perfect condition added to its rarity and appeal.”

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SOLD FOR

Et volorro te prorere sseque dendit aceaque porecerum qui con re doloris sequame Belle Époque Cartier platinum pendantbrooch with pear-, oval-, marquiseshape, circular-cut, and pavé-set oldcut diamonds

JCK OCTOBER SEPTEMBER 2014 2014 jckonline.com jckonline.com

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Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman. Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my ﬁrst interview with the company.

Ok. Deﬁnitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and ﬁve years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.

Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exempliﬁed in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.

Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

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l a e r r u o Watch e h t r o f e v i couples L ! s e i r e s o e d i v s t n e m Mo Visit facebook.com/artcarvedbridal

See how we are driving customers to your store with our ArtCarved Put A Ring On It Contest (from Sep. 1-Oct. 31). Go to ArtCarvedBridal.com/PutARingOnIt for details on how your customers can enter to win their dream ArtCarved Engagement Ring or pair of Wedding Bands. Call 1-800-221-3232 Email artcarvedbridalsales@fgoldman.com

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www.artcarvedbridal.com

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