Cotton Half-Slips By Rina Abzug I've always considered my most successful project to be one that no one but me will ever see! I'm talking about cotton slips, of course. Nancy Zieman, in her book, The Best of Sewing with Nancy, gives good, clear directions for making a tricot half-slip. (Tricot is thin, knit fabric that is typically used for women’s lingerie.) Nevertheless, tricot half-slips can be found in practically any store. It’s much more difficult to find cotton slips, which are cooler in the summer and more comfortable then hot, sticky tricot. Using Nancy for inspiration, I adopted a few of her techniques to make a comfortable slip that would be great in the summertime. (Standard disclaimers. I do not work for Nancy’s Notions, but I love their products and books). Below are the directions for making a cotton slip: Materials • For fabric, I use standard white batiste. I found it at the local Minnesota Fabrics. It costs around $2.20 per yard, 45". You will need approximately 2 yards. • The elastic I use is 1/4" lingerie white elastic at .20 per yard. (This is standard elastic and comes in many colors.) You will need approximately one yard. • The last material you will need is lace. The lace was what put everything together and make the slip pretty. It was 5/8" lingerie lace, straight on one side and scalloped on the other. I bought it from Nancy's Notions for .40 per yard. (www.nancysnotions.com) You will need approximately 2.5 yards. NOTE: Yardage may vary depending on your size. The yardage listed above is for a medium sized cotton slip. Instructions 1.
First you need to find the width and length of the slip. To find the correct width, measure your hips, and add six inches. (Confession: The first time I tried this, I measured my waist by mistake. Obviously, this doesn't work. Be sure to measure your hips or the slip will not be wide enough.) Make the length however long you want the slip to be. (Isn't sewing wonderful?) Then, take some wax paper and draw the pattern.
33+6=39” Width 21” Length
2.
Your slip will need a slit, so you must build one into the pattern. You can do this by folding the pattern in half. Measure ten inches from the bottom of the length of the skirt. (NOTE: be sure you don’t make the slit on the fold.) Measure again two inches from the corner of the width of your slip. Once you have both of these points marked, make a little curve between the marks, connecting them. Cut out this curve through both sides of the wax paper.
Fold 10 Inches
3.
You pattern is now complete. Take your fabric and lay the pattern diagonally on the fabric. You need to lay it diagonally on the fabric in order to cut it on the bias. This is important if you want your slip to comfortable and have enough “give” to it. (Tricot is a knit and therefore does not need to be cut on the bias. When you use a weave, such as cotton batiste, cutting on the bias will ensure proper fit and comfort.)
Slip Pattern Batiste fabric
4.
Next you will need to insert the lace. There’s a special trick for inserting the lace. Place the lace on top of the fabric by the fabric edge. Don’t just lay the tip of the lace on the edge of the fabric. Put the lace on the fabric. You will later trim away the fabric from under the lace. The lace goes along on the entire bottom of the slip, including the slit. (See diagrams)
Zig Zag Here Lace lying on top of slip
Lace lying on edge of slip
Using a tiny zig-zag stitch and a small needle (size 9 worked best for me), zig-zag the lace to the fabric. I was surprised how inconspicuous the stitching was. I use a regular, all-purpose foot and just eye-ball everything, but the slips always look great! Once the lace is sewn, turn to the wrong side of the slip and cut away the excess batiste fabric from under the lace, cutting close to your stitching. 5.
Sew the side seam being sure not to sew down the slit.
Sew Seam
6.
The last step in making this slip is to insert the elastic. Cut the elastic ~5 inches shorter than your waist. Sew the ends together. Divide the elastic into fourths. Next, divide the slip into fourths, marking them both with an erasable fabric marker or pin. Then, use the same trick you used for the lace. Line the elastic up with the edge of the fabric and with tiny stitches, zig-zag the elastic to the fabric. Be sure to match your Âź inch markings from the elastic to the slip. Once this is done, turn to the underside of the slip and cut away the excess material from under the elastic, cutting close to your stitching.
Congratulations! You have just completed your slip. For more information, please visit http://www.gl.umbc.edu/~rabzug1