edible Orange County
A Member of Edible Communities
Harvest 2015 No. 18
The Art of Making MISO
Miso
HARVEST 2015 NO. 18
GMO Labeling
Top 8 Healthy Food Trends
Digging Carrots
Aged balsamics Gourmet condiments Kitchen linens&aprons Bird’s-eye maple cutting boards Slate cheese serving boards Original paintings Cookbooks
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Contents harvest 2015
12
26 In Each Issue
6
Editor’s Note
By Gina Mullins Cohen
8 Contributors
10
In Season
32
The Fit FoodieÂŽ
38
Our Advertisers
Features
By Gina Mullins Cohen
By Mareya Ibrahim
12 Miso
by Nancy Singleton Hachisu Photos Courtesy of Author
20
The Current State of GMO Labeling
26
Digging Carrots
by Michele Jacobson
by Eugenia Bone Photos by Ben Fink Cover Photo courtesy of Nancy Singleton Hachisu
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Recipe Box
From the book Preserving the Japanese Way By Nancy Singleton Hachisu
16
Homemade Brown Rice Miso
19
Miso Squid
From the book The Kitchen Eco System By Eugenia Bone
29 Carrot Sweet Marinara Sauce 30
Braised Carrots
31
Carrot Top Pesto
31
Flank Steak with Carrot Top Pesto
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Editor’s Note edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year
The Giving Tree As we approach this season, in these profound and troubling times, I often think back to the Shel Silverstein book, The Giving Tree, which I read as a child. The book is about a boy and a tree – an apple tree. Throughout the book, which travels the lifespan of the boy, the tree loves the boy unconditionally and as a child, the boy loves the tree unconditionally, as well. The story, however, moves from the innocence of childhood to the greed of conditional needs that stalk one throughout the adult years of life. As a child the boy plays with the tree and they are friends, but as he grows older, he asks a great deal of the tree. The tree’s love does not change and the tree gives unconditionally to the boy, but the boy keeps asking and taking. As the boy grows in to a teen, he seeks money and the tree says, “Pick my apples and sell them.” The boy does this. And the tree was happy. Later in the boy’s life, he wants a boat and the tree says “Chop off my branches and make a boat.” The boy does this. And the tree was happy. When the boy is an old man he goes to the tree and tree says, “I have nothing more to give you, I am just a stump.” The boy looks at the tree and says, “I am tired, all I need is a place to sit.” The boy rests upon the stump. And the tree was happy. The book is considered provocative because of the story’s underlying meaning. Some people believe the boy’s requests and behavior are abusive, especially since the tree never denies the boy’s requests. Others liken the story to the relationship between parent and child, Mother Nature and humankind and some claim the story echoes the Christian belief of unconditional love. This issue of Edible Orange County speaks to the unconditional love of family, of the passion to educate the public on what is in their food, and of the simple pleasure of thrusting your hands in the brown earth to pick carrots. There are challenges this year, but through the unconditional love of family and friends, those problems seem somewhat manageable and the world not a bad place, but a loving, giving place. This season as you sit with your loved ones, remember the importance of loving and giving – unconditionally. And as the year draws to a close, remember to eat good food, laugh a lot and choose to be happy.
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Orange County® Published by Eclipse Media Partners, LLC 108 Hermitage Blvd. Berryville, VA 22611 Editorial Staff Gina Mullins-Cohen Editor gina@edibleoc.com 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 Bill Cohen Editor: Arts and Culture 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 info@edibleoc.com Robert D. Mullins Investigative Reporter Editor info@edibleoc.com 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 Vi Paynich Editor: Fashion and Design Vi@edibleoc.com 714-504-1825 Kim Lewis Creative By Design Creative Director klewis@creativebydesign.net 951-226-5617 Moe Goode Web Master info@edibleoc.com Ben Marchbanks Alcemy, Inc. Digital Magazine Producer Ben@magazooms.com Advertising Gina Mullins-Cohen Publisher gina@edibleoc.com 310-721-3093 | 949-315-6445 Jennifer Sakurai jennifer@edibleoc.com 310-721-3093 No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher ©2015. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
–Gina Mullins Cohen 6 Harvest 2015
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COMMU N IT Y TABLE DINNER SERIES
The Ecology Center presents a series of special farm-to-table dinners featuring renowned chefs and local farmers. For dates and tickets, visit TheEcologyCenter.org. 32701 Alipaz Street, San Juan Capistrano, California 92675
Contributors Eugenia Bone is a cook and author whose stories and recipes have appeared in newspapers and magazines across the country including The New York Times Magazine to Saveur, Food & Wine, Gourmet, Fine Cooking, The Wine Enthusiast, Martha Stewart Living, and The Wall Street Journal, among many others. She is the author of 5 books, among them Italian Family Dining, and Well Preserved: Recipes and Techniques for Putting Up Small Batches of Seasonal Food (nominated for a James Beard award); Mycophilia: Revelations from the Weird World of Mushrooms, and The Kitchen Ecosystem: Integrating Recipes to Create Delicious Meals. Visit Eugenia’s blog, TheKitchenEcosystem.com . Bill Cohen is a writer, musician, cartoonist and humorist. He has a graduate degree from the University of California, Los Angeles. Bill has worked for The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, The Getty Museum in Los Angeles and Universal Music Group. Bill spends his free time playing classical guitar, bicycling and studying Turkish. Bill learned to eat under the direction of his mom. Gina Mullins-Cohen became fascinated with nutrition, as a teenager, when she discovered the benefits of organic food. Throughout her 20year career in publishing she has successfully co-launched several domestic and international magazines, as well as two media companies. Gina is the owner of Edible Orange County and spends her time between Orange County, California and Loudoun County, Virginia where she is Vice President of Marketing, Communications and Publications at National Recreation and Park Association. NRPA is dedicated to Conservation, Health & Wellness and Social Equity.
Lauren de la Fuente runs Pearl Street Marketing. She has worked with Nike, E!, MTV, and currently leads the communications and public relations divisions for Edible OC. Her diverse expertise includes launching brands, forging strategic alliances, developing on-target positioning and strategy, and producing award-winning creative. Pearl Street Marketing handles B2B and B2C marketing for a variety of clients in the sustainable industry and is based in Santa Monica, CA. www.pearlstreetmarketing.com. Nancy Singleton Hichisu, a native Californian, has lived with her Japanese organic farmer husband and three sons in their traditional Japanese farmhouse for the last 25 years. Hachisu has taught home cooking to Japanese housewives for over two decades and is the leader of a local Slow Food convivium. Mareya Ibrahim – The Fit Foodie – began her career in the natural products industry as the national marketing director for Wild Oats Market before it became Whole Foods. She experienced the natural products industry from all angles including food and marketing, retail, and all avenues including being a consumer of whole foods. Ibrahim is also the founder of Eat Cleaner products which have been featured on OVC. She has a pod cast and speaks regularly on the benefits of healthy eating.
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DISCOVER EXCELLENT WINE ONLINE! Kim Lewis is the owner and creative director of Creative By Design, a full-service creative agency located in Corona, California. Creative By Design provides award-winning design for titles such as Parks & Recreation Magazine and Elearning! Magazine as well as city and chamber guides accross the country. Kim has received over 50 awards for magazine design, from the Western Publication Association, Folio and other industry associations during her 24-year tenure as a creative professional. www.creativebydesign.net. Robert (Bob) David Mullins is a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist. He is the only journalist ever awarded the esteemed Amicus Curiae Award, presented by the state Judicial Council. The prestigious Robert D. Mullins Excellence in Reporting Award, named in his honor, is bestowed annually to journalists considered outstanding in their ethical efforts to report the news. Mullins was also awarded the Bronze Star for his courageous, life-saving efforts during WWII.
The most delicious wines you’ve probably never heard of are just a click away
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from Robert Parker
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from Wine Spectator
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Vitisia Paynich grew up in Orange County. She has been an editor and writer for more than 20 years. Vitisia co-launched both international and domestic business publications. She has interviewed celebrities, as well as several other high-profile figures throughout her career. 91 POINTS
Jennifer Sakurai has been a writer and editor for more than two decades. Several magazines under her direction have won Maggie Awards and both regional and national awards from the American Society of Business Publications. She has also earned an MBA with a marketing concentration. Jennifer loves both cooking and baking despite having been “the world’s pickiest eater.”
from Antonio Galloni’s Vinous
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In Season
Harvest By Gina Mullins-Cohen
Apples Artichokes Asparagus Basil Beans Beets Broccoli Brussels Sprout Cabbage Carambola Carrots Cauliflower Celery Chard Cherimoyas Chili Pepper Grapefruits
Lemons Collards Corn Cucumber Eggplant Grapes Kale Kiwi Kohlrabi Lettuce Mushroom Mustard Okra Onions Passion Fruit Peaches Peas
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Peppers Persimmons Pomegranates Potatoes Raspberries Sapote Spinach Squash Tangelos/ Tangerines Tomatillos Tomatoes Turnips Valencia Oranges Yams
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MIS Making miso is simple, not time consuming, except for the fact that it takes a winter, spring, and summer to ferment so 6 to 12 months minimum. It’s almost fool-proof and is highly do-able for amateurs as well as experienced cooks. The method, as written is long, but  the thing about making your own miso, is that, if you live outside of Japan you should really make your own miso. Even the best commercial available organic miso varieties will not be anywhere near as tasty.
by Nancy Singleton Hachisu I first arrived in Japan in the summer of 1988. I had eaten miso soup, but otherwise really had no idea of how to use miso or what exactly miso was. Each trip to the supermarket was like a bewildering excursion through unknown territory. What were all those strange packaged foods? In the United States we have whole walls of shelves dedicated to breakfast cereal or soft drinks. In 1988 Japan, rice held a prominent wall, as did miso. I remember shelves of plastic containers and bags of miso. I was convinced that those containers held peanut butter, not miso. That shows you how insular I was despite my so-called worldly outlook. Over the years, ironically I lost the taste for peanut butter but developed one for miso with a vengeance— the strange has become commonplace and vice versa.
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Making miso as a community effort gave me self-confidence and a feeling of personal power.
Miso has been so intertwined with our culinary life that I never gave it much thought. In the early years, my mother-in-law was still making her own miso, so we always had some of her homemade miso in the fridge. But our stock miso was Yamaki Jozo’s inaka miso (literally “country miso”). Inaka miso is made from white rice koji, so it is light in color but has the full flavor of a two-year fermentation that Kyotostyle white miso does not. In our house, miso was just miso; we never talked varieties and never used the term “red” miso. In fact, it was not until I started thinking about and writing about Japanese farm food that I began to delve beneath the surface of the hows and whys of traditional Japanese foods. I used to take things at face value: Knowing something was well made was enough; I didn’t need to obsess about exactly how it
was made. That point of view has changed, though. Many Japanese have lost touch with how traditional foods are made. Consequently, my current mission is to visit the producers of artisanal Japanese foods and share their stories with the Japanese public through my periodic Fuji TV segments. I also realized that it was simply not enough to gather information. I had to participate in the making of as many of these traditional foods as possible—for the sake of passing on the preservation practices to my sons and future daughters-in-law, and to develop a deeper understanding of the processes. Making miso as a community effort gave me selfconfidence and a feeling of personal power. “You can do it!” is a litany I often say to my preschool kids (and to myself ). And it is what I want to say to all of you reading this: You can do it! You can make miso. Pre-WWII most agrarian families made their own miso from the rice and soybeans they grew. The koji was obtained from the local koji maker and the salt from the vendor who sold staples that were not produced at home, such as konbu, katsuobushi, vinegar, and salt. The Kansai area (Kyoto/Osaka) prides itself on a lighter, more delicate cuisine; mountainous and northern areas such as Gifu and Tohoku favor dark misos and deeply flavored foods; whereas Greater Kanto (Tokyo) tends toward a midrange
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RECIPE homemade brown rice miso <RST>TEZUKURI GENMAI MISO
Although tackling making miso may seem intimidating, it is really much simpler than you may imagine. I encourage you to take the plunge because when you end up with a vat of homemade miso that has your own taste, the sense of accomplishment is unrivaled. Mitoku organic brown rice koji and barley koji can be ordered through the Natural Import Company, an excellent source for top-quality Japanese ingredients, and white rice koji is available online at South River in Massachusetts or Cold Mountain Miso. This method follows the one used at the Yamaki Jozo miso-making workshop. The large percentage of koji results in a full-flavored, almost sweet miso. Good-quality dried soybeans are readily found in the bulk organic section of your best organic shop. Though I use Japanese sea salt, just use a good-quality local or even Italian white sea salt, preferably naturally dried. Make miso in the cool months from late November through early March to give it time to rest before the fermentation arc starts to climb as the weather warms in the spring and summer.
Makes 6 Pounds (3.5 Kg)
INGREDIENTS 2 pounds (1 kg) best-quality non-GMO dried soybeans 2 teaspoons best-quality organic miso (or previous yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s homemade) to use as seed miso for the new batch 2 pounds (1 kg) brown rice koji 14 ounces (400 g) fine white sea salt DIRECTIONS 1. Soak the soybeans for 18 hours in a large pot of cold filtered water. Drain the beans, return them to the pot, and refill the pot to about 5 inches (10 cm) above the beans. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower to a simmer, and cook for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours, uncovered, until the beans are soft. The idea here is to simmer the beans in just enough liquid so they cook well but eventually most of the liquid is boiled away by the time the beans are cooked. Traditionally, the beans are steamed for 1 1/2 hours in wooden steaming boxes stacked over a large cauldron set over a very hot wood fire. The beans can also be
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2.
3.
4.
5.
cooked in batches in a pressure cooker for about 20 minutes over high heat. (N.B.: If you steam the beans you will need to double the amount of seed miso and water that you add to the mash with the koji and salt.) While the beans are cooking, slowly whisk 1/2 cup (125 cc) of hot water into the 2 teaspoons seed miso and cool to room temperature (the solution should be like a very thin miso soup in consistency). Drain the cooked beans and start mashing them to a coarse consistency. I like to grind them roughly in batches in the Japanese grinding bowl (suribachi). Alternatively, you could run the cooked soybeans through a sterilized meat grinder. Or you can opt for the low-tech squeeze between your thumb and index finger method. When the beans are smashed to your satisfaction (chunky or smooth), they will also be cooled enough to measure in the koji—they should be just off warm at the most (too hot and it kills the spores). Sprinkle in about 80% of the salt along with the seed miso (miso thinned with water). Knead well to distribute the koji and salt with the mashed beans. Form tennis ball—sized spheres of bean mash and throw them into a large crockery pot, small wooden barrel, or food-grade plastic vat with all of your might. Whack! Splot! The container should be set on the floor, and it probably makes sense to have a piece of plastic sheeting underneath the container to catch any misthrows. You are looking for a satisfying splat that sounds like thunk rather than a weak glurp. Or (if you are lazy like me, with stunningly bad aim), you might mash the balls in with your fist and the heel of your hand to ensure that all air pockets have been filled. The bean mash should only fill the container about half full. Pat down the surface of the mash with the flat of your palm and sprinkle with the remaining 20% portion of salt. Smooth a clean muslin cloth across the surface of the mash and let it drape down over the sides of the container to keep out flying leaves or other debris. Place a wooden or plastic drop lid on top of the cloth-covered mash surface and weight evenly with rocks or heavy objects that equal at least the weight of the mash. Cover with one more large muslin cloth and wind some twine a couple of times around the circumference of the barrel to tie the cloth in place. The cloth will act as a mold barrier and will become scarily dusted with green mold spores, so don’t skip or replace with plastic. Carefully remove to wash when you stir the miso. Let the young miso sit undisturbed in a shaded area outside until the weather warms. From May, start stirring the miso about once a month to avoid mold as the fermentation arc
starts to ramp up. During the hottest period, you should probably stir the miso (from the bottom up) every 2 weeks to avoid mold forming. Ideally the weather should become muggy, and the temperatures should rise to about 100°F (38°C) at the height of the summer. But avoid direct sunlight. If you see any mold on the surface, carefully scrape it off. Clean the inside surface walls of the container with a vodka- or shochu-soaked cloth to deter mold. If you are feeling particularly adventurous, you could smooth a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of sake lees across the surface of the miso in June or July to seal and inhibit mold produced by oxidization. In this case, you really want to completely cover the surface to make a homogeneous layer (you still need to use the cloth, drop lid, weights, and outside cloth cover). Peel off the sake lees when the weather turns cool in the late fall, and recycle the lees as an instant pickling bed. 6. If you have not sealed the miso with sake lees, check the miso after the summer to see if it has mellowed to your liking. At this point, you can refrigerate it or just leave the miso in its fermenting container until you start your next batch in the coming winter. No need for weights once the miso is done— you can leave it outside if the weather is cool; otherwise store it in the fridge. VARIATIONS I have heard of people using different beans such as chickpeas or azuki; I would not. In Japan miso is always made from soybeans. Also it is fine to use white rice koji instead of the brown rice koji.
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Misos are named for the area they come from (i.e., Saikyo or Hatcho) or the grain used to incubate the koji (brown rice, barley, or soybean).
salty palate. In Kyushu, the southern island of Japan, the cuisine is characterized by very fresh fish and, inexplicably, sweetened soy sauce (not to my taste). Seaside areas use less miso than mountainous areas; instead, several abundant varieties of fish are fermented to make fish sauce (shottsuru, ishiri, ishiru) as the condiment of choice (besides soy sauce). Misos are named for the area they come from (i.e., Saikyo or Hatcho) or the grain used to incubate the koji (brown rice, barley, or soybean). All miso is made from soybeans, koji-inoculated grain, salt, and bit of seed miso (the previous yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s miso diluted in hot water). Inaka miso (country miso) is made from white rice koji and is perhaps named as such because it is the most-used miso in farm cooking. Town people and restaurants tend to use white miso. We have never bought white miso because our local miso company makes 2-year fermented organic misos, and white miso only requires a 30-day to maximum 3-month ferment. As for selecting miso outside of Japan, there is good news and bad. The good news is that miso is widely available at all supermarkets, not just organic shops or Japanese markets. The bad news is that most of the miso I have come across is oxidized, or in any case darker than its Japanese equivalent. For instance, inaka miso is as dark as the brown rice miso sold in Japan, and the brown rice miso can be as dark as the dark chocolate brown soybean miso (mame miso). For this reason (and because it is so doable), I encourage you to make your own! Excerpted from Preserving the Japanese Way: Traditions of Salting, Fermenting, and Pickling for the Modern Kitchen, by Nancy Singleton Hachisu/Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC
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RECIPE Miso Squid – Ika No Misozuke
Serves 6
We are fortunate to have a constant supply of very fresh squid in Japan. If you have any doubts about the freshness of your squid, you might want to perform a boiling water–ice bath operation a couple of times by pouring a stream of boiling water over the squid for 10 seconds, then plunging in a bowl of ice water to refresh (yudoshi). Also squid is one sea creature that does not suffer much from freezing, so frozen squid is an alternative to fresh. Miso tends to burn, thus low-ember coals or far away from the broiler is best. Squid stands up to the miso and the long, slow cook more than fish, as its surface is naturally taut and becomes slightly caramelized. Utterly delectable as a beforedinner snack or appetizer. Also excellent cold the following day. INGREDIENTS 5 small fresh squid (about ⅓ pound/150 g each) ½ teaspoon fine sea salt 1 tablespoon sake 4 tablespoons brown rice or barley miso 1 to 2 small dried red chiles, sliced into fine rings DIRECTIONS 1. Position a cutting board immediately to the left of the kitchen sink. Set the bag of squid directly behind the board and a wire-mesh strainer in the sink itself. Remove the squid from the bag and lay them on the board. Gently dislodge the inner gastric sacs from the bodies by running your finger around the perimeter of the inside body walls and pull the sac out in one piece. Reserve the sacs and some of the meat for making shiokara, if you like, otherwise, toss into the strainer for later composting. Stick your finger inside the body and
pull out the plastic-like stick, called the gladius and set the bodies in the sink to wash. 2. Pat the squid bodies well with a clean dish towel. Drape across a dinner plate, and sprinkle all sides with the salt. Stash in the fridge for 1 to 2 hours uncovered. 3. Muddle the sake into the miso and spread over both surfaces of the squid bodies with a small rubber scraper; smooth around the tentacles (still attached at the top) with your fingers. Return the squid to the refrigerator for 2 or 3 hours more for a deep, dark taste. Grill slowly over low-ember coals or on a rack set in the third slot from the top of an oven broiler for about 5 minutes on each side. Julienne and eat as is for a before-dinner snack. VARIATION: The laconic gentleman who hid behind dark glasses at the Wajima air-dried fish place parted with his favorite way to make squid: Marinate in soy sauce for 30 minutes and grill. Simple. I like to serve it with a squeeze of yuzu or Meyer lemon. From Preserving the Japanese Way: Traditions of Salting, Fermenting, and Pickling for the Modern Kitchen, by Nancy Singleton Hachisu/Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC
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GM THE CURRENT STATE OF
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MO By Michele Jacobson
If you live in America you cannot have escaped the ongoing GMO debate. While many hold the strong opinion that genetically engineered foods are unsafe, unhealthy and downright evil, there are others who believe they are the way to feed an ever-growing world population. This is, after all, America, and it is our right to have divergent points of view. However, over the past few years the public battle over genetically engineered food has become more confusing and contentious, with the biotech seed industry and Big Food on one side of the divide, and the 90% of Americans who want to see GMOs labeled on the other. It could be argued that the “GMO issue“ has become less about the science, and more about the consumers’ right to know what is in our food.
LABELING
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With no federal laws requiring the testing or labeling of genetically engineered foods, American citizens, largely via grassroots efforts, have had to speak up for themselves on this matter. There are currently eight GMOfree zones in the U.S: Trinity, Santa Cruz, Marin, Mendocino and Humboldt counties, all in California; Jackson and Jefferson counties in Oregon, and Maui, Hawaii. The states that have passed mandatory labeling laws are Connecticut, Maine and Vermont. Alaska has required labeling of any genetically-modified salmon sold in the state since 2005. These have been hard fought and won pieces of legislation by the people and for the people. There is additional legislation for mandatory GMO labeling pending in 35 states. Shockingly, all of these hard earned laws and regulations are in danger of being overturned. In July, the House of Representatives passed The Safe and Accurate Food Labeling Act of 2015, legislation that opponents coined The DARK Act, which is an acronym for Deny Americans the Right to Know. This bill, if voted into law, would actually block states from labeling foods as having genetically engineered ingredients, and even negate any GMO labeling laws that have already been passed. In fact, “The preemption language in the bill would nullify over a hundred local laws that, directly or indirectly, regulate genetically engineered crops.”(1)
In July, the House of Representatives passed The Safe and Accurate Food Labeling Act of 2015, legislation that opponents coined The DARK Act, which is an acronym for Deny Americans the Right to Know.
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This is because federal law trumps a law below it, such as a state or local law. The timing of this federal bill is suspect, at best. It arrived on the heels of Vermont’s GMO labeling law, which is slated go into effect July, 2016, and would require labels for all foods containing genetically engineered ingredients. When industry groups were unable to block the Vermont ruling at the state level, this federal bill was a savvy political response. If passed into law it would serve to quash any GMO legislation arising across the county completely. It seems like a subversion of democracy when the federal government takes action in opposition to the clear message that its citizens have sent. The question of a GMO labeling law is now under review in the Senate, which has not addressed the topic in over a decade. A Senate committee held a hearing this past October in anticipation of an upcoming Senate version of The Safe and Accurate Food Labeling Act, to widespread complaint that the speaker lineup did not contain a consumer representative and was heavily stacked against labeling. Gary Hirshberg, Chairman of the group Just Label It, was the only speaker there in favor of mandatory GMO labeling. He stated, “This change in our entire food system has happened in less than a generation with no citizen or consumer input. 64 other nations have solved this problem with mandatory www.edibleorangecounty.com
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disclosure. The FDA has the authority under the Federal Food and Drug Cosmetic Act to implement mandatory labeling just as they have with many other foods.” (2) However, the FDA’s position is that “the use of genetic engineering in the development of a food is and of itself not material information,” stated Susan Mayne, director of the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition at the FDA. According to Steven M. Druker, public interest attorney and the author of Altered Genes, Twisted Truth(3), the fact that GE foods are even on the market is in violation of federal law. “These foods are all on the U.S. market illegally,” says Druker. “If federal food safety law were properly enforced all GE foods would need to be recalled and then required to have their safety confirmed through rigorous testing via the formal food additive petition process. Genetically engineered foods should be regarded as high risk foods that have been inadequately tested. Their developers have shunned the type of rigorous scientific experimentation that is necessary in order to demonstrate that they are safe.” Opponents of mandatory GMO labeling argue that individual state laws would create a “patchwork effect” throughout the country, confusing to the consumer
We cannot accept it as “politics as usual” when our federal government pushes legislation in the opposite direction of the will of its citizens, especially not when it is our food system at stake.
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and costly for food manufacturers. This, however, is untrue. According to Mr. Druker, “The various states which have already drafted laws for mandatory GMO labeling have established similar requirements that are comparable from state to state.” Furthermore, label-changing is routinely done by the food industry for new flavors, ingredients or a variety of other marketing reasons. The food industry uses higher food costs as a scare tactic in an effort to manipulate the consumer against GMO labeling. Absence of a mandatory GMO labeling system has also had an adverse effect on international trade. More than 60 countries around the world, including Australia, Japan, and the entire European Union, either require labeling or have imposed bans on the production and sale of GMOs. Lack of action on the part of the U.S. has created import and export problems with those countries. There have been instances when foods, or products containing nonapproved crops, are refused entry at international ports for being in violation of the receiving countries’ laws.(4)
Is Our Right To Know Endangered? It is widely known that the strong majority of Americans favor labeling of genetically engineered foods, and support for labeling is growing.(5) We cannot accept it www.edibleorangecounty.com
as “politics as usual” when our federal government pushes legislation in the opposite direction of the will of its citizens, especially not when it is our food system at stake. Should Washington cater to its constituents, or the lobbyists who represent the corporate interest? What do we vote for, after all? The definition of food sovereignty is the right of all citizens to not only have healthy food, but to also be able to define their own food and agriculture systems. The question we need to ask ourselves - no matter what we believe when when it comes to GMOs - is shouldn’t we be able to make a choice when it comes to what we eat? While our
The question we need to ask ourselves - no matter what we believe when when it comes to GMOs - is shouldn’t we be able to make a choice when it comes to what we eat?
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reason for wanting to know what’s in our food may be as different as our culture or the state in which we live, what should unify us all is the belief that it’s our basic right to know. Democracy is on the line.
What You Can Do: Call or write your Senator and request support for mandatory GMO labeling. Also, remember that the most effective tool you have is in your wallet! You can change our food system by making your preferences known at the cash register. Always buy non-GMO food!
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CARROTS DIGGING By Eugenia Bone
For years I was trapped in the mentality that carrots’ primary role in my kitchen was as part of the tripod upon which many Italian dishes stand: carrots, onions, and garlic. These aromatics are known as a battuto (which can include other ingredients as well, like celery and parsley; once cooked, the combo is called a soffritto). But then my local farmer’s market started selling beautiful carrots, bound by a piece of twine and topped with a head of feathery greens that cooked up impossibly tender and sweet: Hardly the working horse carrots that I used to buy in the grocery store. It didn’t take long for me to move beyond the notion that carrots were supporting players in the kitchen and realize that they can, and should be the stars. And not just the root but also the glorious greens as well.
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Carrots were cultivated as long ago as the 8th century B.C., in Babylon, but Alan Davidson, author of the Oxford Companion to Food guesses they were cultivated not for the root but for the herby greens. (It is member of the parsley family.) Which is ironic, because today, most people toss the greens. Not only are carrot greens edible, they’re delicious.
EQUIVALENCIES 1 pound of fresh carrots, or 5 to 7 medium-sized carrots, equals about 2 cups of shredded or sliced carrots. Since there is little shrinkage, 2 cups of shredded carrots equals about 2 cups of cooked carrots. One 6-inch carrot produces about 70 ml of juice.
CARROTS AND EYE SIGHT The reason why it is said that carrots are good for your eyes is based on World War II propaganda released by the British Royal Air Force which published a story saying that one of its fighter pilots could see so well in the dark due to his diet of carrots. Eating carrots won’t cure your myopia but they do contain beta-carotene (it’s what colors carrots orange), which we metabolized into vitamin A, an important nutrient for eye health.
CARROT PRESERVING Carrots have a pH between 5.88 and 6.40, way too alkaline for water bath processing unless you acidify. But honestly, there is nothing you can’t do with carrots. They make great pickles, which you can process in a water bath. http:// nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/pickled_carrots.html You can preserve them in water in a pressure canner. http:// nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_04/carrots_sliced.html You can freeze carrots by peeling and blanching in boiling water for 2 to 5 minutes depending on whether you are freezing pieces or whole carrots, and then pack into freezer bags. You can root cellar carrots (don’t wash: remove the greens but leave a stub a couple of inches long and pack in straw or moist sand). At 32ºF they will keep for about 6 months. And you can dry carrots. Boil for 4 minutes, and then dry at 135°F in your dehydrator until brittle.
Small, immature carrots are less flavorful than mature carrots, but slender, young carrots are best. Since, like beet greens, carrot greens pull moisture from the root, as soon as I get them in the kitchen I separate the greens from the root. When buying carrots with their greens look for bright, moist leaves. Avoid carrots that are rubbery or wrinkly. They should be very firm and smooth (bumpy is okay). Small, immature carrots are less flavorful than mature carrots, but slender, young carrots are best. Since, like beet greens, carrot greens pull moisture from the root, as soon as I get them in the kitchen I separate the greens from the root. The greens can be processed into Carrot Pesto right away, to be served with a piece of grilled meat, poultry, or fish, and the carrots stored in a plastic bag in the fridge (but away from apples, which emit a chemical that can cause off flavors in the carrots). If your carrots get soft or limp you can resuscitate them in cold water; and remove the cores of the old ones, which can be tough. Lately I have been braising carrots in a little homemade chicken or vegetable stock, white wine, and butter, which is divine, and making an addicting marinara sauce that is super sweet because of all the carrots in it. Indeed, carrots are excellent in deserty recipes. I make a sweet and sour carrot jam that is fantastic on a mozzarella sandwich, and often add shredded carrots to muffin batters for flavor and texture. And that’s just getting started. I pressure can carrots to have on hand for quick soufflés, make clean tasting slaws with shredded carrots and feta cheese, cook veal stew with nubby “Paris Market” cultivars that are the same size as the hunks of meat, whip up creamy carrot soup, and of course, every once in a while, a glorious carrot cake, redolent with the spices carrots love: ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Now, when I go to the market I don’t buy carrots to make dinner.
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RECIPE Carrot-Sweet Marinara Sauce This is the best marinara sauce: It has a soft consistency, is naturally sweet, and foolproof. Plus it only takes about 30 minutes to make. The sauce freezes well. Makes 4 cups INGREDIENTS Ÿ cup olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 large garlic cloves, chopped 4 cups fresh or canned tomatoes that have been pushed through a food mill to remove skin and seeds 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil 1 teaspoon dried oregano Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
DIRECTIONS 1. In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, carrots, and garlic. Cook until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. 2. Add the tomato puree and cook for 15 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling. Do not overboil or the sauce will get too thick. Turn down the heat if you have to. 3. Push the sauce through a food mill or puree the vegetables in a blender or with an immersion blender. 4. Return the sauce to the heat, add the basil and oregano, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the herbs become fragrant, another 15 minutes. Add the butter, stir until it is melted, and serve.
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RECIPE Braised Carrots This recipe is adapted from Mallman On Fire, (Artisen, 2014), one of my favorite cookbooks from last year. Save the greens for Carrot Top Pesto (below). Serves 4 to 6 INGREDIENTS 2 pounds young carrots, trimmed, leaving a bit of the green, washed 3 cups vegetable or meat stock (homemade is always best) 1 cup dry white wine 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 4 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 6 black peppercorns Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Extra virgin olive oil for garnish
DIRECTIONS 1. Heat the oven to 375°F. 2. If some carrots are thicker than others, then halve them so they will cook evenly. Lay them in a single layer in a small roasting pan. Add the stock, wine, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns and sprinkle with salt to taste. Cover with foil and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the carrots are very tender. Transfer the carrots to a serving dish and keep warm. 3. With the back of a fork crush the garlic and thyme into the cooking liquid. Set the roasting pan over medium heat for a minute or two, stirring to concentrate the flavor; adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and strain. 4. Spoon the liquid over the carrots, drizzle with oil and serve.
RECIPE carrot jam This recipe is adapted from Putting Food By. I’ve altered the flavorings to make the jam less spicy. Carrot jam is wonderful with cheeses and great on a mozzarella sandwich. I macerate the carrots overnight in the fridge, which helps shorten the cooking time, though you don’t have to. Save the greens for Carrot Top Pesto (below). Makes 2 half-pints INGREDIENTS 1 pound carrots, coarsely grated (about 2½ cups) 1½ cups sugar 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon salt One 3-inch cinnamon stick 8 whole cloves ½ cup water Pinch of grated nutmeg DIRECTIONS 1. In a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pan, stir together the carrots, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt. Tie up the whole spices in a piece of cheesecloth and add to
the carrots. (You can put the spices in loose, but you will need to fish them out before canning, so if you do, count those cloves!) Cover and let rest in the fridge to macerate overnight. 2. The next day, add the water and nutmeg to the carrot mixture. Bring to a boil over medium heat and boil the jam, stirring often to prevent scorching, until the syrup has mostly evaporated and is thickened and orange, and the carrots are glossy, 20 to 30 minutes. If you boil the carrots too long they will become gluey. It’s not the end of the world. Go ahead and process them, but loosen them up a bit with some warm water before serving. 3. Have ready 2 clean half-pint jars and bands, and new lids that have been simmered in hot water to soften the rubberizedflange. Remove the spices, then pour the carrot mixture into the jars leaving ¼ inch of headroom. Wipe the rims, place on the lids, and screw on the bands fingertip tight. 4. Process the jars in a water bath for 10 minutes at sea level. Process the jars for an additional 1 minute for every 1,000 feet altitude. Remove from the water, let the jars rest for 24 hours, and then check the seals. Store in a cool, dark place for up to a year.
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RECIPE carrot top pesto I’ve never bought carrots without the greens since I discovered how to make this (you have to blanch the greens first or the pesto is too grassy). Be sure you separate the greens as soon as you get them home as they pull moisture out of the carrots. Save the carrot stems for stock. Makes about ½ cup INGREDIENTS Greens from 1 medium bunch of carrots 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon pine nuts 2 garlic cloves Squirt of fresh lemon juice Salt DIRECTIONS 1. Pull the feathery leaves off the stems. You should have about 2 loosely packed cups of leaves. Bring a small pot of water to a boil and drop in the carrot leaves. Cook for 1 or 2 minutes to blanch, and then drain. The greens will reduce to about 1/2 cup.
2. Transfer the greens to a food processer or blender and add the oil, pine nuts, garlic cloves, lemon juice, and salt to taste. Blend to a puree. Refrigerate the pesto for up to a week (it does ferment) or freeze.
RECIPE flank steak with carrot top pesto This is a simple, fabulous dinner: I just have to buy steak, carrots with the greens, and some fresh thyme. The other stuff I usually have on hand. I like to marinate the steak in the morning or the night before, but if you only get in 1 hour of marinating, that’s fine, too. You can substitute skirt steak for the flank steak if you’d like. This is great accompanied by Braised Carrots (above). Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 1½ pounds flank steak 3 tablespoons olive oil Small bunch of fresh thyme 4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled Juice from ½ lemon (about 2 tablespoons) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons safflower oil Carrot Top Pesto (above)
DIRECTIONS 1. Pound the steak with a mallet to tenderize. 2. Place the steak, olive oil, thyme, garlic, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste in a sturdy plastic food storage bag and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to overnight. 3. About 1 hour before you are ready to start cooking, take the bag out of the fridge and let the meat come to room temperature. 4. In a grill pan or heavy skillet, heat the safflower oil over high heat. Remove the steak from the bag. Don’t worry if there is garlic or thyme stuck to it. Place in the pan and cook for about 10 minutes, searing both sides, for medium-rare. 5. Remove the meat and let it rest for 5 minutes. Slice the meat against the grain and on an angle, and serve with the carrot pesto. You can serve this dish at room temperature or warm, both are good.
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The Fit Foodie®
THE TOP 8 HEALTHY FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016 BY CELEBRITY CHEF AND INDUSTRY EXPERT MAREYA IBRAHIM, THE FIT FOODIE Mareya Ibrahim is The Fit Foodie. She is the creator of EAT CLEANER® and the Cleaner Plate Club, teaching families how to enjoy cleaner, safer, longer lasting fresh food. She is also a featured chef on “Everyday Health’s Recipe Rehab” and hosts “Fit Foodie” Fridays on Channel 6 San Diego. This time of year, she can’t get enough of golden beets, butternut squash and Branzino.
For the fourth consecutive year, I’m releasing my Top 8 Healthy Food Trends Report for 2016 that will dominate the plate. In 2015, my predictions included nutrient-dense cold pressed juices, cold brew coffee, convincing meat-less meat and products fueled by cricket powder - which captured shelf space and menus everywhere, helping food service break through the clutter with unique items that customers want, driving sales and interest. And now, what do I see in my crystal ball? Let’s get to the meat…
1
INSPIRALIZED VEGGIES
How do you get more veggies onto their plates? A secret weapon for the health-conscious cook, spiralizing transforms your favorite vegetables into pasta-like noodles. Delicious raw and crunchy in a salad or cooked and covered with a hot sauce or marinated in a dressing, this technique is sure to grow in popularity in 2016. By making noodles out of vegetables like zucchini, squash and kohlrabi, you’re
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imitating foods that families love but replacing them with gluten-free, nutrient dense options. These grain-free noodle substitutions offers brilliant texture without compromising flavor, and can be integrated into a number of dishes, from traditional Italian to Asian, served hot or cold, offering great appeal for different dietary needs. By substituting spiralized veggies for traditional pasta, you can save yourself upwards of 180 calories and roughly 35 carbs in a single serving. Gluten-free is here to stay, so appealing to customers with veggie options is a smart way to go, because it can be marketed as ‘fresh’ pasta. You can also get inspiralized at eatcleaner.com.
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‘Globowls,’ a nutrient-packed, internationally influenced and customizable offering that goes beyond chicken, rice and broccoli – will get hot in 2016.
2DIY GLOBOWLS
There is no doubt that the popularity of ethnic foods among U.S. consumers has been skyrocketing over the past few years, and your kids demonstrate that variety of backgrounds. These include fiery and authentic flavors offered by Latin, Asian, African, Middle Eastern and Indian cuisines. Bowls can be a universal, one dish, offering that’s portable and gives consumers a macronutrient-balanced meal. I coined the term ‘Globowls,’ a nutrient-packed, internationally influenced and customizable offering that goes beyond chicken, rice and broccoli – will get hot in 2016. By incorporating different combinations of varying ethnic influences, people can make their own global bowl to suit their taste du jour. By offering options such as farro, kamut, millet, couscous, black rice or noodles layered with Southeast Asian, Mediterranean and regional American-influenced proteins and a variety of sauces and toppings set up in a salad bar, consumers can come up with endless combinations that keep their interest and keep them coming back for more. Take a trip around the globowl, no passport required.
3
BRINNER
Breakfast is arguably the most important meal of the day…so why not indulge in it at night, too? Brinner entitles you to enjoy breakfast for dinner, you the flexibility to serve up their favorite meals more often. From scrambled egg waffle tacos and acai bowls to egg, bacon and spinach ‘muffins’, breakfast foods enjoyed at dinner also allow you to get economical meals to the table, quick. In
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The Fit Foodie
a recent national survey, nine out of ten Americans say they eat breakfast for dinner, with 56 percent doing so once a month or more often. For families, the trend is even more prevalent as 67 percent of respondents with children in the household say they have breakfast for dinner once a month or more. A variety of factors contribute to the rising popularity of breakfast for dinner, with the main appeal being ease of preparation versus a traditional dinner meal (43 percent). For families especially, it’s also “a fun way to break up the monotony of weekly dinner night” cited by 44 percent. Brinner also offers creative ideas for inexpensive, allergyfriendly requirements. Foods like eggs, pancakes and yogurt are a great form of inexpensive protein and fat that appeal to a wide range of dietary allowances, including gluten, dairy and meat-free.
4
MUFFIN-PAN MANIA
As fast food restaurants continue to supersize their meals, it is becoming increasingly important to exercise portion control at home. Preparing food in a muffin tray is a surefire way to scale back super-sized portions, helping to control calorie intake, less restaurant waste and offer an interesting presentation. Mini muffin-sizes servings make for an easily packable lunch both for adults and children alike. You can bake up a batch of almost anything in a muffin pan, from mini meatloaves to lasagna to pizza bites. The same goes for breakfast, and what’s great is, they are easy to freeze, heat and eat so making a double batched portion becomes a snap. By offering an egg muffin filled with shredded veggies, feta and turkey bacon is a great, portable and gluten-free take on the current veggie sandwich that’s been popping up on quick serve restaurant menus everywhere. From breakfast to dessert, these portion-sized finger foods provide just the right amount of food in a way that’s fun to eat for the kiddos.
5
SPROUTED GRAINS
Let’s admit. It’s nearly impossible to deny a bowl of potato chips. Lucky for you, you no longer have to. Sprouted grains are starting to flood the grocery store shelves in an assortment of categories, from tortillas to bread to pizza crusts to chips. Some brands, such as Way Better Snacks and Angelic Bakery have already caught on to this upcoming trend. Sprouted grains provide the optimal level of nutrition, as this process produces higher fiber and micronutrients. Not to mention, individuals avoiding gluten will find that many sprouted grain products are gluten-free to boot. These sprouted grains may also offer a lower glycemic index, as well as less
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carbohydrates and starch. Importantly, their flavor profiles are often exceptionally good, which is important for your discerning customers. From tortillas to crackers and other foods otherwise known for their ‘empty carbs,’ sprouted grains can promise heightened nutritional value, great taste and decreased guilt. “With the spotlight shining on the food industry brighter than ever, driven by consumer demand for transparency, many are turning to sprouted grain products not only because they are nutritionally superior, but also minimally processed. While sprouted grains are not new, astute shoppers find that they fill a void in their diets left by traditional flour based breads that are typically heavily processed and full of junk.
NEXT NEW SUPER 6THE FOOD: MACA ROOT
stamina and energy. We’re seeing maca often combined with chocolate, which makes for a fantastic alternative to semi-sweet chocolate chips in a cookie, for example. It also works beautifully in smoothies, breads and bars as its forms are diverse. Maca is very mild tasting with a subtle earthy flavor, and can bolster nutrient density in a variety of foods from baked goods to soups. Maca root is available in a powder, chips and bar forms. Add maca to your next dish and let it do its magic.
Kohlrabi, is an even better source of vitamin C than oranges and is also a very good source of Dietary Fiber, Potassium, Vitamin B6, Copper and Manganese.
Maca. It’s not the sound a parrot makes. Maca is a root native to the Andes Mountains and a member of the radish family. Until recently, has been widely overlooked but this remarkable, vegan super food fueled the Inca culture and was known as the ‘food of the gods’ for improving general health, balancing mood,
NEXT ‘IT’ VEGGIE: 7THE KOHLRABI
It might have a funny look and name, but this ‘versatile veggie’ will take over the reigns as the next King of veggies, enjoyed raw and cooked, from sticks to tortilla shells, noodles and everything in between. A member of the cabbage family, Kohlrabi, is an even better source of vitamin C than oranges and is also a very good source of Dietary Fiber, Potassium, Vitamin B6, Copper and Manganese. With only 27 calories per 100 g, Kohlrabi has high water content, very low sodium, no cholesterol and a subtle, sweet flavor with a pleasing texture. I adore kohlrabi because it’s got infi-
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The Fit Foodie
nite possibilities. I’ve used it in soups, mashes, hashes and served it in crunchy sticks, as a substitute for noodles (koodles) and as a replacement for croutons. My absolute favorite way to enjoy it is slice it thin and use it instead of a corn or flour tortilla, filled with anything from shrimp ceviche to beans and mushrooms. Kohlrabi can be eaten raw or, just like a potato, easily roasted, steamed, braised, baked, boiled, pureed or mashed – it integrates seamlessly into many different dishes. This is the vegetable taking center stage.
8
HAVE A BALL
Last but definitely not least, you can expect to see an array of healthful ‘ballin’ goodies in the upcoming year. From snacks to desserts to mealtime, I anticipate a year full of nutrient dense bites in the shape of a bite-sized ball. This follows the portion-sized approach of the muffin pan, where consumers feel they can enjoy what they love in a smaller sized package. My Fit Foodie Bites are the antidote to expensive protein bars. These “Protein Power Balls” contain the perfect balance of good fats, protein and slow burning carbs to help stabilize blood sugar. Instead of a whole bar, a consumer can enjoy one bite before a workout and get just the
right amount of energy. My kids can’t get enough of these, and I don’t them indulging. They’re raw food energy, packed with oats, flax, protein powder, unsweetened cocoa, pumpkin and nut butter, without any refined sugar. It’s like healthy cookie dough! You can get the recipe at www.eatcleaner.com. Now that’s a powerball you can bank on.
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