AppĂŠtit November 2020
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“Cooking is at once child’s play and adult joy. And cooking done with care is an act of love.” — Craig Claiborne
CONTENTS
Why do we eat turkey at Christmas? Britain’s yuletide roast explained
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urkeys were first brought into Britain in the 1520s. At that time, people would eat boar’s head, goose or even peacock at Christmas; it has been claimed that Henry VIII was the first person in Britain to eat turkey for his Christmas meal. When did we first start eating turkeys at Christmas? By 1573, farmer Thomas Tusser noted that turkeys had started being served at English Christmas dinners, but that goose and capon - a castrated rooster - remained the roast of choice at the festive season for some considerable time. In 1615 turkey appears as a meat used in English households in Gervase Markham’s book The English Housewife. The London Poulters’ Guild records note that in the 1680s they began to give the company clerk a turkey as a Christmas gift. But weren’t turkeys were the main Christmas food in Victorian times? Even during Queen Victoria’s reign, turkey was not the most popular Christmas roast as it remained more expensive than the alternatives. In northern England, roast beef was the traditional choice while in the south, goose was still favoured – though poorer families often made do with rabbit. Eating turkey at Christmas was popularised further by the likes of Charles Dickens – in A Christmas Carol, published in 1843, Scrooge sends Bob Cratchit a huge turkey on Christmas Day to replace his goose – and then again by King Edward VII, who chose them for his festive feast.
So when did turkey become our main choice of Christmas dinner? Research shows that today, you only need to work for 1.7 hours to afford one, but as recently as the 1930s, a turkey would cost the average person a week’s wages to buy. It wasn’t until after World War II that turkey overtook goose as the most popular Christmas roast – partly due to the widespread adoption of the fridge in family homes. Strangely, it’s only really here and in the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand that turkey is the main festive meal of choice; while it is sometimes eaten in plenty of other countries, including many in south and central America, it is very rarely eaten at Christmas across the rest of Europe. Written by Lacey Baier
Roasted potatoes rich in flavor, history
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he atmosphere of Dublin might seem down right slow to a visitor accustomed to much larger and more bustling cities. Coming from a smaller urban area myself, the relaxed attitude didn’t bother me a bit. Within days I was head over heels in love with the Fair City. One of my favorite things about Dublin was the size of its business and shopping core. It was not at all unusual for me to walk out of my apartment and wander through the entire city center in just a few hours. I ambled up and down narrow lanes discovering nooks and crannies the average tourist might never see. Many unassuming buildings had small plaques noting their significance in Irish history. Once I began to notice these signs the closeness of history buzzed around me. At any moment you might read words like these next to a door frame or below a lamp post: Author James Joyce walked here, Revolutionary Robert Emmet was hung and died here, a barely honored and long forgotten treaty was signed here. Perhaps this is why I was so comfortable. The presence of history, both terrible and beautiful, was palpable in a way I had never known before. It was hard to feel alone surrounded by all those ghosts. In a city full of new money, new cars, new business and new residents, it was a comfort to find reminders of the past quietly hanging on. The devastation of The Great Famine took an emotional toll on the people in Ireland that continues to be a part of the modern cultural tapestry. Fortunately, potatoes remain a staple within the canon of traditional Irish food. By Rose McAvoy
Inventing a Thanksgiving Favorite By: Brigit Katz, Smithsonian Magazine
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ord came last month that Dorcas Reilly had died at the age of 92. Reilly was the home economist at Campbell’s Soup Co. who in 1955 created a dish that became an overnight American classic: green-bean-andmushroom casserole. The news was especially poignant for me because, a couple of years ago, I happened upon materials that made me wonder about the originality of her fabulously successful recipe. Did she really create the green-bean-and-mushroom casserole all by herself, or was she perhaps inspired by a similar recipe once served on a now extinct railroad’s fleet of dining cars? The birth of the green-bean-and-mushroom casserole was one of the happiest moments in the nation’s postwar drive toward industrialized domesticity. Campbell’s marketing people had sensed a popular yearning for a new Thanksgiving side dish. The test kitchens charged Reilly with developing a recipe calling for a Campbell’s product as a key ingredient. Though Reilly was asked to create a new dish, she understood that it couldn’t be too new. Thanksgiving is the only American holiday expressly dedicated to the maintenance of national tradition, an essential function if the culture of a young country is to endure. Reilly was sailing very close to the wind as she embarked on her experiments in 1955: Her recipe had to taste new but seem old.
The woman invented green bean casserole.
It’s a retro recipe. It has been served for more than 60 years. It can be traced back to a woman named Dorcas Reilly. She died in October last year. Dorcas worked as a supervisor. She worked in a home economics department. It was at Campbell’s test kitchen. That is in Camden, New Jersey. That was in 1955. She was tasked with creating a recipe. It was for a feature. It would appear in the Associated Press. The recipe had to be based on simple ingredients. Any home cook would have them on hand. It also had to include Campbell’s mushroom soup. And it had to have green beans. Dorcas earned a degree in home economics. It was from Drexel University.
Gravy de story
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ow, the French don’t know much about gravy, similar - the second gravy is perhaps slightly thinner, but I that’s been established. But, in its short entry on could have solved this by whisking in more roux. Method-wise, this culinary curiosity from across the Channel, however, the first is clearly superior for the home cook. There’s Larousse Gastronomique observes there are two no need to use an extra pan to prepare the roux, which is a main schools of gravy making – those who add flour to the godsend when you’re cooking a Sunday roast, and it’s much roasting tin to make a roux – a thickening agent made of flour easier to stir liquid into a roux than the other way around – to and fat – with the dripping and juices produced my shame, I spot a couple of lumps in my second by the joint, and those who deglaze the tin with effort. Plus it makes use of the little fat which will GRAVY. The term inevitably still be in the roasting tin after you’ve alcohol or a little stock before adding more liquid. After roasting two joints of beef, I take "gravy" first appears drained most of it off, rather than adding more; the meat out of the tins, tip away most of the fat so it almost counts as healthy. Michael Roux by tilting the tin away from me and spooning off in Middle English Jr makes chicken gravy using the vegetables the hot dripping from the top, leaving as much which have roasted with the bird. He’s basically as gravé and is of the juice as possible in both, and put them in French though, which forbids me from trying his presumed to derive turn on a medium-high heat. I add 2tbsp plain recipe out - but you don’t get much more pukka flour to the first, and stir frantically, scraping from French, since than old Jamie, and he uses the same method all the lovely crusty roasty bits off the bottom, the word may be for his “consistently good gravy”. “There are two and mixing the flour into the remaining fat and things that make a good gravy,” he claims in his found in numerous juice. When the flour has browned slightly, I Ministry of Food: “a vegetable trivet, which is the stir in 600ml good-quality beef stock, a little at medieval French layer of vegetables in the bottom of your roasting a time, season, and reduce for a few minutes tray that your meat sits on; and the juices from cookbooks until the gravy reaches that thick, opaque dark a roasted piece of good-quality meat”. I agree caramel which I consider the crowning glory of with the latter, but the first is news to me - I often a roast dinner. It’s a little gloopy though, suggesting I may chuck some cloves of garlic and a few sprigs of thyme into have overdone it on the flour. The other needs a little more the tin with a chicken, for example, but I always take them advance preparation – I tip a couple of tablespoons of the out along with the meat. Jamie, however, suggests resting beef fat from the joint into a small pan, heat, and then add the joint on a veritable vegetable medley – carrots, onion, the same amount of flour and continue stirring and cooking celery, garlic – and then mashing them up with the flour and for two or three minutes, until it has just started to colour. I meat juices once the meat is cooked. (If you’re cooking quite then tip a little of my beef stock into the hot roasting tin, and a small joint, I’d advise cutting the veg up relatively small: I scrape to dislodge any of the caramelised meat juices at can tell you from bitter experience that hard carrots are devils the bottom, before adding the rest and bringing to the boil. to mash, especially in a hot pan.) I then add a small glass of Once simmering, I whisk in a little of the roux mixture to red wine, stir everything around well, bring it to the boil, and thicken it, season, and compare the two. They taste pretty tip in a litre of beef stock.
It took me a while to come to that realization.
As for most of my life there was either no gravy or only the jarred stuff. I just regret that I did not start making it sooner. I’ll be the first to admit that the process can be a bit anxiety-inducing, especially if you’re juggling many other dishes. But I’m here to help explain things. Here are my tips, plus great advice from chef Marjorie MeekBradley of Washington’s St. Anselm restaurant. Work ahead. Face it, you’re going to be doing enough on the big day itself. Why rush the gravy? Gravy, or a gravy base, can typically be refrigerated up to a week in advance. If you do a base, all you have to do is stir in turkey drippings as it reheats over low heat on the stove top. If you take the gravy from start to finish before Thanksgiving, just reheat and served. It sounds like a fancy French thing that only chefs can do. In reality, it’s just a mix of fat (often butter) and flour that helps thicken sauces, including gravy, or dishes such as gumbo. The fat and flour are added in equal, or very close to equal, amounts. A few things to keep in mind: You want the flour and butter to form a completely smooth paste. Some recipes will have you add the flour all at once, others gradually.
Season at the end.
Meek-Bradley likes to add some salt (and fresh sage) to her from-scratch stock, but she leaves most of her seasoning until she’s done. This is especially helpful because the flavors will concentrate as the gravy cooks, and you’ll be adding drippings of unknown saltiness. When you’re done, taste the gravy and add some salt, pepper and fresh herbs to suit. Meek-Bradley will often add a splash of lemon juice, too. Serve smartly. Gravy is best served warm, of course. Reheat on the stove top, if needed, and keep it warm on low until you’re ready to eat. To give the gravy an extra chance at staying warm throughout the meal, consider this tip from Bonnie: Fill your gravy boat or vessel of choice with boiling water and let it sit for a few minutes, covered. Pour out the water, dry and pour in the gravy. Don’t worry about … turkey. Meat-free eaters don’t have to feel left out. If you’re making a vegan gravy, go for umami-heavy ingredients that give you rich savory flavor. Mushrooms are a no-brainer, and they pack a real punch when combined with miso. A lentil-miso gravy is a different experience but satisfying nonetheless.
What’s the Difference Between Stuffing and Dressing? Stuffing vs. Drestsing
It’s often said that the country can be divided into two camps: Those who stuff and those who hold firmly to the tradition of baking dressing outside the bird. Stuffing on the inside, dressing out. But there’s a wrinkle. While Southerners are fond of calling the essential side dish of Thanksgiving dressing, sometimes, they stuff dressing inside Mr. Tom Turkey. So, just because it’s called a dressing doesn’t mean it’s baked like a casserole. It all comes down to the recipe and traditions. Don’t get hung up on whether it’s labeled stuffing or dressing, it’s all basically the same beast. When stuffing a turkey, it’s essential to stick to instructed cooking times for food safety’s sake. To be extra cautious, use a kitchen thermometer to measure the temperature of the stuffing.
Bread Dressings and Stuffings
Bread dressings and stuffings were invented as a delicious way to recycle day-old bread. Up your stuffing/dressing game with these easy tips: Use rustic European-style bread, sourdough or a hearty rye bread instead of a soft sandwich loaf. Leave the crust on for a fuller flavor and more interesting texture. Cut the bread into 1/2-inch cubes, knowing that they won’t be exactly uniform and air-dry overnigt. If you add vegetables, fruit or meat to your dressing, be sure those ingredients are roughly the same size as the bread cubes to ensure proper cooking. Saute vegetables lightly in butter or olive oil and season with herbs and spices from the recipe to add more character. Add enough liquid to keep the dressing moist but not so much that it’s soggy.
INGREDIENTS
Way to cook Stuffing
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, divided 1 pound day-old white French bread, diced into 1/2-inch cubes and dried 1 extra-large (about 2 1/2 cups) sweet Vidalia or yellow onion, diced small 1 1/2 cups celery, diced small 2/3 cup Italian flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely minced 1/4 cup fresh sage leaves, finely minced 3 tablespoons fresh rosemary (sticks discarded), finely minced 2 tablespoons fresh thyme (sticks discarded), finely minced 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste 1 teaspoon pepper, or to taste 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth, divided 2 large eggs
INSTRUCTIONS oven to 250F. Place 1 Preheat cubed bread on a baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until dried out, about 45 minutes. You must begin with very dry bread or it’ll turn to mush. To save time on the day of, bake and dry out the bread the night before and leave uncovered on the counter uncovered until the morning you’re ready to make the stuffing.
you’re ready to make 2 When the stuffing, transfer bread to a very large bowl; set aside.
oven to 350F and spray 3 Preheat a 9×13-inch pan or 3-quart baking dish with cooking spray; set aside.
a large skillet, add 3/4 cup 4 To (1/2 sticks) butter and heat over medium-high heat to melt.
the onions, celery, and 5 Add cook until vegetables have
softened and are just beginning to lightly brown, about 10 minutes. Stir frequently. Transfer vegetables to bowl with bread.
the parsley, sage, 6 Add rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper,
1 1/4 cups chicken broth, and toss well to combine; set aside. Note about salt – the saltiness level of low-sodium chicken broth varies, and so do personal preferences, so salt to taste.
a small bowl, add the 7 To rtemaining 1 1/4 cups chicken
broth, 2 eggs, and whisk to combine. Pour mixture over bread and toss well to combine. Turn mixture out into prepared baking dish.
the remaining 1/4 cup (half 8 Dice of 1 stick) butter into 8 to 10
pieces and evenly dot the butter over the top of the stuffing. Cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Uncover and bake for an additional 40 to 45 minutes, or until top is as lightly golden browned as desired. Serve immediately. Stuffing is best warm and fresh but will keep airtight in the fridge for up to 5 days. Reheat gently as desired.
The Yule log cake is a rolled Genoise sponge cake, filled with buttercream and decorated with chocolate frosting or ganache, which is combed with a fork to create a barklike texture. Woodsy decorations are a must. Crushed pistachio moss, marzipan mushrooms, and holly garnishes give the impression that these cakes were lifted from the forest floor.
Yule Log Cake The first known Yule log cake recipe was published in 1895 by French pastry chef Pierre Lacan in Le Mémorial Historique et Géographique de la Pâtisserie. Francophone countries most avidly consume Yule log cakes, although they’re common in many countries that celebrate Christmas. Modern recipes have added eggnog and gingerbread frostings to the mix. By the time of Lacan’s recipe, the Yule log tradition was fading. Stoves replaced massive stone hearths, and city life made carrying giant logs out of the woods difficult. Instead, in an ode to provincial life, citydwellers enjoyed bûche de Noël cakes … and unwittingly paid homage to an ancient ritual.
Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and line a baking tray with baking parchment. Sieve the flour, salt, bicarb, ginger and cinnamon into a large bowl. Heat the butter, sugar and syrup until dissolved. Leave the sugar mixture to cool slightly, then mix into the dry ingredients to form a dough. Chill the dough in the fridge for 30 mins.
Snowflake with cream
Bunch of Gingerbread mens
Reindeer
On a surface lightly dusted with flour, roll out the dough to a Âź-inch thickness. Stamp out the gingerbread men shapes with a cutter, then re-roll any off-cuts and repeat. Place your gingerbread shapes on the lined trays, allowing space for them to spread. Cook for 10-15 mins, then remove from the oven and leave to cool.
Snowman
Snowflake cookie
Christmas pine
Sometimes other Christian meanings are giving to the parts of the canes. The ‘J’ can also mean Jesus. The white of the cane can represent the purity of Jesus Christ and the red stripes are for the blood he shed when he died on the cross. The peppermint flavor can represent the hyssop plant that was used for purifying in the Bible. However, all of these meanings were added to Candy Canes after they had become popular.
Pumpkin pie may reign supreme on Thanksgiving, but the true hero of the dessert table is pecan pie. Unlike its gourd-based friend that falls out of favor after the holiday season, pecan pie remains a popular dessert year-round. The American-born dessert’s origins date back to the late 19th century, and the recipe has remained largely unchanged since its creation. Here’s a look into the origins of pecan pie and how it’s climbed to a position of prominence on Thanksgiving tables across the country.