This is Dublin

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CONTENTS

09 WELCOME

This wonderful city draws visitors back like a magnet year after year.

10 DAYS OUT

Dublin offers an abundance of things to do with days out and top attractions for the whole family to enjoy.

22 TOP PICKS

Our top things to see and do when visiting delightful this cosmopolitan city.

24 SHOPPING

Shopaholics will love Dublin for its eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, high-street staples and quirky independents.

32 EATING OUT

Dublin is a foodie’s paradise with a host of fantastic restaurants, cafés and pubs – so make sure you bring a healthy appetite.

42 WEEKENDER

Only here for the weekend? Here are some ideas for a memorable short break to Dublin.

44 ARTS & CULTURE

Culture vultures assemble! This city offers the perfect mix of galleries, museums, exhibitions and festivals.

50 AFTER DARK

The nightlife in Dublin is thriving, packed with clubs, pubs, bars and live music venues.

57 BEYOND DUBLIN

Although this city has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure.

WELCOME TO DUBLIN

THIS WONDERFUL CITY DRAWS VISITORS BACK LIKE A MAGNET YEAR AFTER YEAR

Whether it’s a weekend break to visit Georgian architectural elegance, days out with the children at museums, a taste sensation at one of the city’s splendid restaurants or a trip to the famous Guinness Storehouse, Dublin has got it all.

Shopaholics will rejoice with a trip down Grafton Street, the centre of the city’s main shopping district, just make sure to explore the smaller streets just west of it too.

Dublin is a city of mouthwatering culinary delights, with a wide array of restaurants, cafés and gastropubs enlivened with fresh Irish produce. Get a taste for high-quality fine dining at one of the city’s superb Michelinstarred restaurants.

If it’s culture you’re looking for, then look no further than the historic National Gallery of Ireland – the jewel in Dublin’s cultural crown. It’s located just off Merrion Square, at the heart of the city’s government and museum district. Dublin is packed full of historical interest with castles and cathedrals galore but, as you’ll see, it’s also a thriving city and a gateway to some stunningly rich countryside. So get those walking boots on and take in the spectacular sights as you hike.

Whether you’re visiting for business or pleasure, you can always be assured of finding something exciting to do, tasty to eat or interesting to explore. So whatever you do during your visit to one of the great European cities, please enjoy – and come back soon!

“DUBLIN IS PACKED FULL OF HISTORIC CASTLES AND CATHEDRALS GALORE, BUT IT’S ALSO A THRIVING CITY AND A GATEWAY TO SOME STUNNING COUNTRYSIDE”

TRINITY COLLEGE

GREAT DAYS OUT IN DUBLIN

DUBLIN OFFERS AN ABUNDANCE OF THINGS TO DO WITH DAYS OUT AND TOP ATTRACTIONS FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY TO ENJOY

Dublin is synonymous with the black stuff, and we don’t mean the dark waters that gave the city its name. We’re talking about porter. Invented in London in 1721, since 1776 porter has become a speciality of Irish brewers based at St James’s Gate in Dublin. You may know it as stout – Guinness stout, to be exact.

Today, the Guinness Storehouse is the country’s most popular tourist attraction and includes a tasting experience and the chance to learn how to pour your own pint. Tours end with a sup at the iconic Gravity Bar, affording opulent views across the growing city.

From there, you can see the green expanse of Phoenix Park, the largest enclosed urban park in Europe. It’s home to a range of public buildings, including Áras an Uachtaráin, the official residence of the President of Ireland; Farmleigh House, the State Guest House; and Dublin Zoo – one of the oldest in the world.

The park is also home to roaming herds of wild fallow deer and a succession of beautiful tree-lined avenues. There are also two monuments – the Papal Cross to

commemorate the Pope’s visit in 1979; and the Wellington Monument, an obelisk built to mark the victories of the famous Dublin-born Duke, who beat Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.

Ireland has been producing whiskey since around 1400, nearly one hundred years before Scotland, and any self-respecting connoisseur will enjoy Dublin’s whiskey heritage. A great place to start is The Dublin Liberties Distillery, a stunning state-of-the-art working distillery housed in a 400-year-old building in the heart of the city.

GUIDED TOURS

Visitors can take a guided tour of the distillery to see first-hand how whiskey is made, get up close and personal with the beautiful copper pot stills, and hear the stories from the vibrant Liberties area that inspire the whiskeys. The tour ends with a tasting in the impressive distillery bar, where guests are welcome to stay on and enjoy some perfectly crafted cocktails as they overlook the Still House. The ground floor is also home to a café and a whiskey shop.

Discover over 800 years of history and awaken your senses at Dublin’s only boutique distillery. Winner of the Irish Tourism Industry Award for Dublin’s Best Visitor Experience 2019, Pearse Lyons Distillery offers visitors a unique blend of Irish history, culture and whiskey in a working distillery in Dublin’s historic Liberties. Meet the team, and taste some of the finest whiskey Ireland has to offer.

The city is surrounded by nature. Hop on a bike (or the DART) and take the short trip out to Sandymount Strand, the most famous beach in fiction. The strand’s vast size at ebb tide is immortalised in Ulysses, where Stephen Dedalus wanders “into eternity”. It’s also the location for an infamous passage involving Leopold Bloom, which led to the book being banned in several countries.

There is birdlife galore around the beach and in the nearby Irishtown Nature Park, which leads on to the gloriously remote Poolbeg Lighthouse. Walk the 1km sea wall, take in the seals and cormorants, and savour the solitude of being so central in the city, and yet so far away.

“THE GUINNESS STOREHOUSE IS THE COUNTRY’S MOST POPULAR TOURIST ATTRACTION — AND INCLUDES A TASTING EXPERIENCE PLUS THE CHANCE TO LEARN HOW TO POUR YOUR OWN PINT”

There are two other attractions with a maritime connection worth visiting. EPIC – The Irish Emigration Museum – was named Europe’s Leading Tourist Attraction in 2019, 2020 and 2021. It charts the struggles and achievements of the Irish diaspora, from the scientists, statesmen and scribes Ireland bequeathed to other nations, to the generals, outlaws and priests who made the rest of the world their home.

A modern museum experience offering a particular thrill to the young and inquisitive, it provides a fitting tenant for the beautiful CHQ Building on Custom House Quay, just down the road from the magnificent Custom House. For an overview of the city, try the quirky The Little Museum of Dublin for a 30-minute award-winning trip through the story of Dublin.

NERVE CENTRE

Dublin Castle, meanwhile, was long the bastion of British rule in Ireland, and describes itself as the ‘nerve centre’ of historical power in Ireland. Built in the 13th century on the site of Viking ruins, it has engaging displays of artworks, stories – and archives, not least about the ‘first’ Bloody Sunday in 1920. If you’ve got any interest in archaeology, the main draw is the National Museum of Ireland –Archaeology, on Kildare Street.

For day trips outside Dublin,make your first stop Glendalough. An hour’s drive or bus ride away, the Valley of The Two Lakes has an old monastery, varied woodland and some excellent hiking. If driving, take the scenic route home via the Sally Gap, and gaze at the vast emptiness of the Wicklow Mountain blanket bogs stretching out to the horizon.

OPPOSITE PAGE EXPLORE THE FAMOUS GUINNESS STOREHOUSE; TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT PEARSE LYONS DISTILLERY; DUBLIN CASTLE

©ALVARO SANCHEZ/UNSPLASH; DONAL MURPHY PHOTOGRAPHY/PEARSE LYONS DISTILLERY; DUBLIN CASTLE/PIXABAY; GUINNESS STOREHOUSE

The Button Factory

Nestled in the heart of Temple Bar, The Button Factory is home to one of Dublin’s premier live music venues, along with a nightclub and entertainment hub. The iconic venue seamlessly blends historic charm with a cutting-edge atmosphere.

The Button Factory invites you to press play and join the rhythm of Dublin’s cultural heartbeat.

Curved St, Temple Bar, Dublin

My Bike or Hike offers both public and personalized private tours with a qualified local guide. You can choose between walking, hiking and cycling activities in off the beaten path locations in and around Dublin.

These active experiences are ideal for families and small groups.

If you’re planning your next trip, or you want some reminders of this one, view our full portfolio of visitor guides to the UK and Ireland at

“THERE’S A 200-ACRE PARK TO ROAM AT RUSSBOROUGH, WHICH TAKES FULL ADVANTAGE OF SPECTACULAR VIEWS TO THE BLESSINGTON LAKES AND THE WICKLOW MOUNTAINS BEYOND”

Take the DART railway line from the city, and visit the coastal village of Blackrock, the port town of Dún Laoghaire (pronounced Doon Leera), or the beautifully quiet coastal village of Dalkey, home to Bono’s local pub.

From Dalkey, the DART swoops past Sorrento Point, before emerging on cliffs to startling views of Killiney Bay, one of the finest public-transport views in Europe. Unfortunately, the most accessible beach by train is Killiney Strand, which, although it offers a great walk all the way to Ballybrack, is not quite as sandy as Whitrock.

Next, you come to Bray, a classic seaside town, like a miniature Brighton. It has a lovely seafront park with pubs and restaurants, and Bray Head, where you can raise the blood pressure with a short, steep stroll to the top, which

is rewarded with stunning views over South Dublin and North Wicklow, including neighbouring mountains like the Great Sugar Loaf.

If you’re staying in Bray, take the circular Slí De Buitléar, or the De Buitléar Way, which will bring you back to Crab Rock at the start of Bray beach.

If you fancy venturing out into County Wicklow, make sure a trip to Russborough House and Park is on your itinerary. Filled with hidden treasures from the Renaissance to the 20th century, Russborough is one of Ireland’s most beautiful Georgian houses. Admire its wonderful, richly decorated interiors and enjoy its world-class private collection of art, fine and decorative arts.

DAY OUT IN NATURE

Meanwhile, there’s a 200-acre park to roam around too, which takes full advantage of spectacular views to the Blessington Lakes and the Wicklow Mountains beyond. For a full day out in nature, with plenty of entertainment and food opportunities at the start and the end, walk the 7.5km remote coastal path between Bray and Greystones, and drink in the scenery, plant life and sea life.

Some like to get the train to Greystones and walk to Bray, but given Greystones’ reputation as a growing gastronomic hub, the Bray-Greystones route tends to be more

WICKLOW MOUNTAINS

The National Wax Museum Plus

The National Wax Museum Plus is a popular tourist attraction located in the heart of Dublin, Ireland. It is a unique museum that showcases an extensive collection of wax figures, interactive exhibits, and immersive experiences, providing visitors with an entertaining and educational journey through Irish history, culture, and popular culture.

The National Wax Museum Plus offers a diverse range of exhibits that cater to various interests. Visitors can explore different themed areas, each with its own distinct atmosphere and set of wax figures. These include the Chamber of Horrors, The Mythical Forest and The Time Vaults where you can encounter infamous characters from history and mythology. The Children’s Fantasy World section provides a family-friendly environment with interactive displays and beloved characters from fairy tales, movies, and cartoons.

In addition to the wax figures, the museum also features interactive exhibits that engage visitors in a hands-on experience. You can take part in virtual reality adventures, solve puzzles in the Murder Mystery tour, or explore the Science and Discovery Zone, where you can learn about scientific principles in a fun and engaging way.

The National Wax Museum Plus aims to provide an entertaining and educational experience for visitors of all ages. It offers a unique opportunity to learn about Irish history, culture, and global icons in an interactive and immersive setting. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a pop culture fan, or simply looking for a fun-filled activity in Dublin, The Wax Museum is sure to captivate and entertain you.

MURDER MYSTERY

Get ready to put your detective skills to the test! The Murder Mystery in Dublin’s Wax Museum is an immersive experience where you have to solve the crime by piecing together clues and evidence. No spoilers here though! - you’ll have to figure it out on your own! Do you have what it takes to crack the case?

Irish Rock n Roll Museum Experience

The Irish Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum Experience is a captivating journey through the rich history of Ireland’s vibrant rock and roll scene. Located in the heart of Dublin, this immersive museum offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore the country’s musical heritage and the impact of rock and roll on Irish culture.

Step into the world of legendary Irish musicians who have left an indelible mark on the global music stage. Learn about your favourite Irish Rock bands from Thin Lizzy and U2 to the solo legends such as Rory Gallagher and Sinead O’Connor. The museum showcases a diverse collection of artifacts, memorabilia, and interactive exhibits, providing a dynamic and engaging experience for music enthusiasts of all ages, through a guided tour led by our passionate tour guides. From iconic instruments to rare photographs and multimedia displays, the museum brings to life the evolution of Irish rock ‘n’ roll.

Visitors can relive the electrifying performances and pivotal moments that defined Ireland’s music landscape. The museum’s curated displays pay homage to influential artists, bands, and movements, celebrating the creativity and resilience that have shaped the nation’s rock scene.

Beyond the exhibits, the Irish Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum Experience offers a guided tour, gives visitors an opportunity to Jam out in our rehearsal rooms and allows guests to delve deeper into the stories behind the music.

Whether you’re a devoted fan or a casual listener, this immersive journey promises a memorable exploration of Ireland’s rock and roll legacy. It’s a must-visit destination for those eager to connect with the rebellious spirit that define the Irish contribution to the global rock music tapestry.

Six trips per day | Fun for all ages

Scenic train journey beside the River Suir

popular. Church Road in Greystones has several eateries just a few minutes’ walk from the DART station.

On the other side of Dublin – Dublin Bay North – lies Howth Head. Take the H3 bus to Howth Summit, and gently descend to the lovely fishing village of Howth, which has a great range of seafood – and some incredibly confident grey seals.

From there, take a ferry to the tiny island of Ireland’s Eye. The birdlife here is something to behold – gannets (reintroduced there in the 1980s), guillemots, razorbills, fulmars and – a rarity in these parts – puffins. Once known as Eria’s Island, or Inis Faithlenn, today Ireland’s Eye is also home to a Martello Tower – a line of defensive fortifications built to repel Napoleon.

The northern part of Dublin city also has rich pickings for days out, not least The National Botanic Gardens of Ireland in Glasnevin, on the banks of the River Tolka. There are 20,000 living plants and millions of specimens. The Gardens themselves are a sylvan haven, and the excellent restaurant makes it well worth a day out – not least for its proximity to the nearby historic cemetery.

Ireland’s necropolis, Glasnevin Cemetery, has been the resting place for 1.5 million Dubliners since it was established in 1832. There is also a Joyce connection here – the cemetery forms the setting for the “Hades” episode in Ulysses. From the outside, it looks a little like a barracks, or a fort – high walls and watchtowers surround the

cemetery, originally built to deter body snatchers in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The heroes of Ireland’s struggle for independence are buried here, although the grave of Michael Collins – ‘the man who won the war’ – is surprisingly modest, due to post-Civil War politics. His great rival, Éamon De Valera, is also buried at Glasnevin, but Michael Collins’ grave is among the most visited.

GLASNEVIN

Glasnevin also saw the funerals of writer Christy Brown, balladeer Luke Kelly of the Dubliners – and the ‘Liberator’, Daniel O’Connell, whose struggle for the rights of downtrodden Irish Catholics under British rule helped to establish the Cemetery following the repeal of the sectarian Penal Laws at Westminster. Today, O’Connell’s grave is marked by a traditional Round Tower, a monument partly damaged by an Ulster Unionist bomb in the 1970s.

Nearby, you’ll find the grave for that other great 19thcentury Irish political figure, Charles Stewart Parnell – the Uncrowned King of Ireland. Unlike O’Connell, however, Parnell’s grave comprises a simple monument, built on top of a former cholera pit.

The simple monument is telling – Parnell’s political career (and, soon after, his life) ended after he earned the wrath of Catholic intolerance by falling in love with a married woman. Overall, Glasnevin is spellbinding. The crosses

ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT GREAT SUGAR LOAF MOUNTAIN, WICKLOW; THE PALM HOUSE AT THE NATIONAL BOTANIC GARDENS OF IRELAND; GLASNEVIN CEMETERY

©AITORMMFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; GLASNEVIN TRUST; POWERSCOURT ESTATE; ZILVERGOLF/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Take inspiration from Ireland’s earliest visitors and explore the ancient Cooley Peninsula and mystical mountains of Mourne by ferry. Carlingford Lough is the perfect destination for a scenic day trip, for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and hikers and bikers.

UP TO 30 sailings per day during summer months

Visit carlingfordferry.com for up to date sailing times

www.johnstowncastle.ie

So Grand So Gorgeous

Discover a history that dates back more than 800 years...

Experience the Gothic Revival castle with its rare 86 metre servants’ tunnel, explore the Irish Agricultural Museum and its extensive collection of exhibitions and machinery from rural life in Ireland. Then take some time to enjoy the lake walks and relax in the romantic ornamental gardens.

Wexford, Ireland

Step back in time and explore

Rothe House & Garden – Kilkenny’s magnificent 16th-century Merchant townhouse.

Rothe House, once the home of wealthy merchant John Rothe, is a testament to Kilkenny’s most prosperous era. Built between 1594 and 1610, delve into the rich history of Kilkenny while exploring the three interconnected houses and cobbled courtyards. The crowning glory is the restored walled garden, an oasis of calm nestled away from the busy city streets.

Browse in the Merchant Shop, each item a celebration of Irish craft and design.

Guided Tours  I  Genealogy  I  Exhibitions  I  Events

OPENING HOURS

April – October

Monday – Sunday 10.00 – 18.00 (last admission 17.00)

November – March

Tuesday to Sunday 10.00 – 17.00 (last admission 16.00)

16 Parliament Street, Kilkenny, Ireland R95 P89C

+353 (0)56 772 2893 reception@rothehouse.com

www.rothehouse.com

erected during the Celtic Revival (roughly 1860-1960) are particularly impressive.

Across the Northside lies another monument to Ireland’s Celtic Revival – the Gaelic Athletic Association. The GAA are headquartered at Croke Park, a sporting cathedral and the third largest stadium in Europe.

Hurling has been played for 3,000 years, and remains the fastest field sport in the world, while Gaelic football has been dated back to 1308 AD. What is especially captivating about a big match in either sport at Croke Park is that none of the 30 players on the pitch are paid. All have second jobs, and yet are frequently cheered on by 80,000 fans.

It has been described as a ‘bastion of humility’, a world away from the celebrity soap opera you find in other countries. In fact, the CNN has listed the final of the All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship as number two in the ‘10 sporting events you have to see live’. Hurling and Gaelic football (men and women’s) are played throughout the year, with the most popular and exciting games happening from May to October.

Dublin fans – the Dubs – are known for their tribal fanaticism, but there is no hooliganism, and supporters intermingle. If it’s not matchday, take the Skyline Tour over Croke Park for great views of the city’s changing skyline, and visit the GAA Museum Hall of Fame.

Elsewhere, there are days out to be had at St Patrick’s Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral, or walking tours across the city run by the James Joyce Centre. You can also take yourself on a tour of north inner-city architecture, from the Casino at Marino to Dublin City Gallery, The Hugh Lane; the Gate Theatre (alma mater of Orson Welles) to the macabre St. Michan’s Church; and, finally, to the National Museum of Ireland (Collins Barracks), near Heuston Station.

In the north inner city lie two other famous buildings worth visiting, both used as battlegrounds during the Irish Revolution 100 years ago. Today, the GPO’s seminal role in the 1916 Rising is commemorated in the GPO Museum.

ICONIC LANDMARKS

The Four Courts, meanwhile, was badly damaged in 1922, when the ammunition of anti-Treaty IRA forces ignited –destroying a thousand years of archives. Today, with the lucrative professions of barristers and solicitors still protected by archaic monopolies, the James Gandon-built complex – which offers free admission to the public – is known as the Four Goldmines, mirroring the transformation of modern Ireland from land of war and strife to the home of the capitalist. Teeming with history, arts and literary associations, home to Ireland’s ancient national sports, and surrounded by mountains and sea, Dublin has a variety of days out for everyone.

ABOVE

©DUDLAJZOV/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; MARK LAWSON/UNSPLASH

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

OUR TOP THINGS TO SEE AND DO WHEN VISITING THIS EXCITING CITY

 CATHEDRALS & CHURCHES

Formerly home to Jonathan Swift of Gulliver’s Travel fame, St Patrick’s remains the only cathedral in Ireland with daily sung services. Christ Church, meanwhile, is home to the tomb of the Norman Lord Strongbow, who began 800 years of British domination of Ireland in 1170. The cathedral’s Medieval Crypt contains mummified cats and rats, trapped in the organ in the 1860s.

 DUBLIN VILLAGE

Dublin is a city with a population of around 550,000 – 1.8 million if you include the surrounding area – but the city centre is like a large village. Apart from far-flung destinations like the The National Botanic Gardens of Ireland, Glasnevin Cemetery and Phoenix Park, you can walk almost everywhere, and cycle pretty much everywhere else.

 TAKE A STEP BACK IN TIME

Built in the 13th century on the site of Viking ruins, the magnificent Dublin Castle has engaging displays of artworks, stories and archives. As you wander though the gardens of the castle you will find the Chester Beatty, which houses some of Europe’s foremost religious artefacts.

 EXPLORE THIS LITERARY CITY

Reminders of Dublin’s storied past are absolutely everywhere, from museums and exhibitions to buildings and statues. Make sure you keep an eye out for the ubiquitous plaques on the walls of low-key houses, denoting the famous previous occupants.

 THE GUINNESS STOREHOUSE

Ireland’s most visited attraction. Quite a legacy considering Arthur Guinness was a lifelong British unionist and opponent of Irish home rule. Located in the heart of the legendary St James’s Gate Brewery, this production site has been home to the Guinness Brewery since 1759. The Guinness Storehouse building dates back to 1904 and is built in the style of the Chicago School of Architecture. It was once the fermentation plant of the brewery and is now a seven-storey visitor experience dedicated to the history of the making of this worldfamous beer.

 CELEBRATE ST PATRICK’S DAY

The original day-long parade has expanded into a three-day celebration of all things Irish, with a plethora of events to suit all tastes. Celebrated on the Continent since the ninth century, in the last

100 years Ireland’s national day has mushroomed to become a unifying international celebration. Half a million people flood the streets of Dublin alone for the parade. Whatever you do, don’t call it “St Patty’s”.

 WATCH SOME HURLING

More a way of life than a sport, no other capital city plays host to such an exhilarating sight as the “clash of the ash” in front of 80,000 GAA fans. It’s almost impossible to emphasise how important the GAA is as a social and cultural force in everyday Irish life, for male and female fans, and players alike.

 CYCLE THROUGH PHOENIX PARK

Europe’s largest enclosed urban park is the perfect place for an afternoon’s cycle. Walk down the furry glen, stalk the herds of fallow deer in the long grass (feed them apples, if you’re discreet enough), or sit and have a picnic in the shadow of the oak groves that dot the park’s many acres and gaze at the shadow of Áras An Uachtaráin.

 WHISKEY BUSINESS

Irish whiskey has legions of fans scattered across the globe. But visitors may be surprised to discover that Ireland has actually been producing whiskey since around 1400, nearly one hundred years before Scotland. Any self-respecting connoisseur will thoroughly enjoy Dublin’s fascinating whiskey heritage and both The Dublin Liberties Distillery and the Pearse Lyons Distillery are well worth a visit.

 HIKE THE HEADLAND AT HOWTH

If you travel a little further, just north of Dublin, you’ll find Howth Head. Take the bus to Howth Summit and enjoy spectacular views as you gently descend into the lovely fishing village of Howth. Here you can reward yourself with a sumptuous meal at one of the village’s many excellent seafood restaurants.

OPPOSITE PAGE TOP TO BOTTOM THE FAMOUS GUINNESS BREWERY; TAKE A TOUR OF GLASNEVIN CEMETERY; ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL; HOWTH HEAD; SEE THE WELLINGTON MONUMENT AT PHOENIX PARK; ST PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL ©ANTON_IVANOV/MR. SERGEY OLEGOVICH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; BRIAN MORRISON/TOURISM IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; CHRIST CHURCH/PIXABAY; GABRIEL/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; GLASNEVIN TRUST

SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP

SHOPAHOLICS WILL LOVE DUBLIN FOR ITS ECLECTIC MIX OF BOHO-CHIC BOUTIQUES, HIGH-STREET STAPLES AND QUIRKY INDEPENDENTS

Dublin is a plum shopping destination, catering to increasingly choosy consumers in fashion, homeware and design. There’s the classic glamour of the department store, the usual array of high-street brands, and an increasing coterie of independent boutiques catering for the smart set.

While Grafton Street is at the centre of the main Dublin shopping district, the prevalence of chain stores means many shoppers flock to the smaller streets just west of it –Drury Street, Clarendon Street and South William Street, as well as the combination of originality and wonderful tackiness which marks shopping around the Temple Bar tourist district.

Walking down Grafton Street from the famous Fusiliers Arch – the elegant Victorian façade of Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre to your left – you’ll come across the expensive but intriguing Disney Store, menswear and womenswear staples at Benetton, classic denim at Levi’s –and enough jewellers to return to the Gold Standard.

On Grafton Street alone, you’ll find R&C McCormack Celtic Jewellers, Boodles, John Brereton, Weir & Sons,

Tiffany & Co, Rocks Jewellers, and Fields – although the streets off Grafton Street are also teeming, including Paul Sheeran, Gray’s, Loulerie and ESL Jewellery.

The Westbury Mall also has some interesting nooks –relax with high tea in The Westbury Hotel afterwards. There was a time after the 2008 economic collapse when parts of the city were full of shops buying gold. Those days are gone.

LUXURY AND BEAUTY

Over 160 years since first opening in the last year of the Great Famine as a haberdashers and drapers, Brown Thomas remains the epitome of high chic. Famous for its Christmas window displays, it has been synonymous with luxury and beauty in clothing and cosmetics.

Here, you’ll find Bobbi Brown and Chanel side by side with Tiffany & Co and Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Celine. The store is split over four levels, and specialises in prêt-à-porter and haute couture clothing and accessories.

Known as ‘BTS’ to Dubliners, the Irish chain also operated a BT2 outlet on the other side of Grafton Street,

now changed to a Victoria’s Secret store (for similar offerings, see Peaches & Cream Lingerie, on King Street South).

A BT2 outlet remains on the city’s western outskirts at Blanchardstown Shopping Centre. It’s an excellent base to explore the rest of Grafton Street, where you’ll find top UK chains such as River Island and Marks and Spencer. Take in a rooftop view of the city from Marks and Spencer’s top-floor café, or nab a window table at the famous Bewley’s Café, overlooking the heart of the street.

SURPRISES IN STORE

Shop-wise, it’s in the alleys and byways around Grafton Street that the real surprises are in store. For homeware, go to Muji on Chatham Street or Stock Design on South King Street.

Around the corner lies the innovative lifestyle store Industry & Co, which has become a bastion of homeware and cutting-edge design from its base on Drury Street. Partly based on the New Nordic style, it offers compellingly artistic lighting fixtures. It’s run by the sibling team of Marcus and Vanessa Mac Innes, and offers an in-store café and bakery. Outside the city, a new opening, The Triggerfish Cookshop, in Blackrock, is a favourite destination for home cookers and bakers across South Dublin.

Cross the quiet street and visit the small but lovely Irish Design Shop, and – if your senses are not already sated –pop along to the revered flower shop, The Garden, at the entrance to the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre – a thoroughly opulent shopping centre featuring some 40 shops and restaurants.

At the heart of the Dublin design boom, it also hosts exhibitions, design nights and concerts. The Design Centre is the place to head for pieces by both new and established Irish designers, and the Atrium concept store showcases fabulous Irish fashion and jewellery.

Making its mark in Temple Bar is Scout. Described as all killer and no filler, it’s the must-visit store for vintage fashion and homeware. Around the corner on Exchequer Street, there’s a hot favourite – Designer Exchange, described as the only preloved designer handbag and accessories store in Ireland.

Architecturally, Powerscourt is unique in showing the transition from Rococo to neoclassical design in one roof. Formerly home to Richard Wingfield, 3rd Viscount Powerscourt (1730-1788) and his wife, Lady Amelia, it was designed to entertain guests during Parliament season, and, in terms of Dublin mansions, is surpassed in regal splendour only by Charlemont House and Leinster House (today’s Irish Parliament). What a backdrop for a spot of shopping!

Today, it styles itself as a modern commune for the style-conscious, featuring quality high-street brands, like AllSaints and French Connection, as well as independent shops, and stylish sellers of bijou goods. With its services including dress hiring, it is the spiritual home for many Dublin shoppers.

Dublin is also the showcase for the best in Irish produce. Aside from Industry, check out Avoca – a sort of design institution among Dubliners, with branches on Suffolk Street in the city centre, as well as just outside the city in Ballsbridge, Monkstown, Malahide, Rathcoole, Dunboyne, Co Meath – and in County Wicklow, at Kilmacanogue,

OPPOSITE PAGE BROWSE THE WIDE RANGE OF SHOPS ON OFFER AT THE STEPHEN’S GREEN SHOPPING CENTRE >>

©BURGESS MILNER/JUHO LUOMALA/UNSPLASH; MOUSTACHEGIRL/SYDA PRODUCTIONS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

and in the actual Powerscourt country estate, near Enniskerry. Also on Suffolk Street is the newly opened Aran Store, with an array of luxurious traditional Irish knitwear, homeware and Solvar Jewellery.

Carrolls Irish Gifts shops are an easy source of tourist souvenirs, but, for the proper full Irish, Nassau Street is the best bet. There, you’ll find The Sweater Shop, an independent family-owned business specialising in Aran sweaters, traditional and modern – and run by some of the nicest people in Dublin. The Donegal Shop, at Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, is also worth checking out.

If you’re looking for a quieter shopping experience, go no further than the Royal Hibernian Way, a small pedestrian arcade tucked away between Grafton and Dawson Streets. Enjoy the timeless quality of Monaghans Cashmere fashion outlet, an old-style haberdashery with modern luxury, selling top-quality cashmere sweaters and fine-quality pyjamas.

For other fashion, visit April and the Bear, which has moved to Rathmines. Eco-friendly clothing outlet Fresh

Cuts Clothing, on South William Street, meanwhile, is a pop-up store that has stood the test of time. Nearby, Costume, on Castle Market, has offerings from Isabel Marant, and the French brand Soeur, specialising in bohemian androgynous tailoring.

Indigo & Cloth, in Temple Bar, is a source of great clothes and accessories for men. For suits, meanwhile, go to Costume, or Louis Copeland & Sons, a sort of one-man Saville Row since 1933. A Dublin institution, it sits on Capel Street, just north of the Liffey, but it also has branches on Wicklow Street, Pembroke Street and in Dundrum.

This is the start of the Northside’s own shopping area, stretching from Capel Street, on to Mary Street, Henry Street – its centre – and down across O’Connell Street.

This area is known for everyday, affordable fashion found in the Ilac and Jervis shopping centres. Yet there are also some classy department stores, not least Arnotts –a sister shop to Brown Thomas, and Ireland’s oldest and largest department store. Diesel has a store in the Jervis Shopping Centre, joining New Look, Timberland and Bershka.

Clerys, sadly, is a distant memory, closing in 2015, but it is, at time of writing, undergoing redevelopment as part of a new Clerys Quarter scheme due to open in 2023. A new H&M will occupy half of the flagship premises, alongside US premium chain Flannels. A glamorous rooftop restaurant will round out the offering.

ENTHRALLING VINTAGE SHOPS

In Skerries, North Dublin, there is the wildly popular Venezuela Boutique, selling specially selected international clothing brands, from Derhy to The Line Project.

Temple Bar, the city’s most tourist-minded area, has a mind-boggling array of shops selling the weird and wonderful. As well as hosting enthralling vintage shops, like Nine Crows, it’s also the centre of the markets movement.

In recent years, Dublin has done its very best to ignore its relative proximity to the Irish Sea – and the weather it brings. These days, you can’t turn a corner without seeing a Continental-style market, and the city centre is all the more vibrant for it.

Temple Bar sees its fair share, including the Temple Bar Book Market, the Cow’s Lane Designer Mart on Saturdays, the Temple Bar Food Market on Saturdays, and – near Henry Street – the traditional Moore Street Market, site of some of the last fighting in the 1916 Rising.

Just outside Dublin, in the quaint fishing village of Howth, the Howth Market sells everything from organic food to antiques to clothing, pulling in both tourists and locals every Saturday and Sunday to browse and soak up the lively atmosphere.

DISAPPEARING DUBLIN

Near the Powerscourt Centre lies the Victorian-era George’s Street Arcade, with its quaint collection of bookshops, accessory stalls, independent record stores and vintage shops. It once shared Newmarket Square with The Green Door Market, but, since the redevelopment of that site, The Green Door has relocated to Old Naas Road – well worth a little trip into the suburbs for some fine food from local producers.

In Blackpitts, near Newmarket Square, you’ll find a relocated favourite – Hen’s Teeth, offering prints and clothing, plus coffee and sweet treats.

Nearby lies one of Dublin’s most intriguing areas –Meath Street and Thomas Street, the shopping district of the historic Liberties area. With onstreet markets, bazaars, traditional greengrocers, fishmongers, chicken shops, and enough family butchers to feed a zoo, Meath Street is a last remnant of a disappearing Dublin.

The Sheep

Shop & Studio

Home of ‘The Sheep, Hand Crafted in Galway’ – all our sheep are hand crafted in house and exclusively available in store and online.

You will also find a selection of beautiful Irish made wool scarves, hats, gloves and throws by Foxford Woollen Mills, Mc Connell Woollen Mills and The Inis Méain Knitting Company, Irish sheepskin products and art by local Galway artists.

Visit our Shop & Workshop at The Sheep, 4 Mainguard Street, Galway H91 K099 @thesheepgalway

www.thesheep.ie

While you won’t get high fashion or the latest design trends, it’s a glimpse into the sort of area that used to serve working-class communities all over Dublin until the advent of suburbs, shopping centres and the Internet.

Take a stroll up through Brabazon Place for an afternoon’s mini adventure – you can return to the city centre via Dublinia, an excellent Viking and Medieval museum – and catch a glimpse of the many cathedrals and ancient churches on the two streets, as well as the National College of Art and Design, which draws many artists to the area.

BOOKS AND ANTIQUES

For a great selection of books – and for a sneak peek into the world of Sally Rooney and the rest of the Dublin literary galaxy – visit Books Upstairs, on Westmoreland Street. Or you could head around the corner to The Secret Book and Record Store, for new and second-hand books as well as vinyl. And, in Dublin 8, there’s a community favourite – Marrowbone Books.

Dublin is also an antique hub, centred on the stately Francis Street, and, with it, the largest collection of antique, rug and art shops in Ireland, as well as photographers, galleries and a wool and linen shop. Cross the junction to explore Bohemia Vintage shop, followed by a stop at the Cathedral Café.

Some of the most exciting design and fashion shops are popping up in Dublin 8. Independent concept store Seven Wood is now located in the Millennium Centre, in Dolphin’s Barn, after a lengthy run as a pop-up store on Dawson Street and in Portobello.

If browsing charity shops is your thing, there’s a bonanza in store. Cross the junction of Kevin and Clanbrassil Street (once known as the Four Corners of Hell), and walk to the bottom of Wexford Street, turning right. Should you now keep walking for 20 minutes until you reach Rathmines crossroads, you’ll pass enough charity shops to keep you in second-hand books, clothes and music for a decade.

You’ll also walk along one of Dublin’s old tram lines (yet to be restored here, sadly) and past some notable architecture, not least the dome of Rathmines church, the civic buildings of Rathmines college and library, and the dubious modernist Kodak building.

Rathmines has the bustling feel of an English town centre, with a beautifully restored, old-fashioned cinema, Stella Cinema. Don’t miss the revamped Swan Shopping Centre, which has a Carraig Donn shop for homeware as well as a modern Omniplex cinema.

From there, you can catch the 44 bus and rock up in Dundrum Town Centre, the suburban mecca of Dublin shopping. This huge suburban shopping site – just down the Luas Green Line from Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre and Ranelagh – is bright, airy and absolutely massive. Dundrum has become the country’s foremost shopping destination. You’ll find 120 stores including Brown Thomas and Harvey Nichols, covering 140,000m² of retail space. Pop in on Sunday morning, and bask in quiet hour, from 10am to 11am.

From vintage fashion to shopping centre glamour and everything in between – Dublin’s got it all.

ABOVE BROWN THOMAS IS HOME TO A RANGE OF TOP DESIGNER BRANDS

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EXPERIENCE A TASTE SENSATION IN DUBLIN

DUBLIN IS A FOODIE’S PARADISE WITH A HOST OF FANTASTIC RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS AND PUBS – SO MAKE SURE YOU BRING A HEALTHY APPETITE

As befitting a city where one in every five citizens is an immigrant, Dublin is a city full of culinary delights, with a wide array of restaurants, cafés and gastropubs enlivened with fresh Irish produce.

Although Cork and Kinsale vie for the title of culinary capital of Ireland, the facts speak for themselves. Dublin has five restaurants with Michelin stars when going to press –Variety Jones, Patrick Guilbaud, Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, Bastible, and Glovers Alley, with many more of similar standard.

For years, the best dining in Dublin has been French/ Irish fusion. With two Michelin stars, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud is the crème de la crème, and steeped in culinary expression, if occasionally overly fussy.

Set in Dublin’s Fitzwilliam Hotel, Michelin-starred Glovers Alley serves up seasonal dishes with a French twist, created by superstar chef Andy McFadden. Stylish and modern Bastible has recently been awarded its first

star. It specialises in pared back, beautifully presented set menus featuring the best Irish ingredients. The tiny, Michelin-starred Variety Jones in the Liberties, features original dishes often cooked over an open fire.

Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, meanwhile, is a French-inspired moving work of culinary art. It currently has two Michelin stars – but is tipped to become Ireland’s first three-starred restaurant in time.

FINE DINING

In Coombe, Spitalfields has been given a Bib Gourmand for its traditional offering, joining the likes of Richmond Restaurant, in Dublin 2; Pichet, on Trinity Street; and Mediterranean restaurant Uno Mas, in the city.

Back in the Georges Street-Grafton Street belt, you’ll find yourself spoiled for choice when it comes to fine dining. L’Gueuleton offers reliably excellent French fusion, although there are a raft of others – The Green Hen, on Exchequer

“FOR THOSE MOURNING THE DEMISE OF JOBURGER, BUJO IS A NEIGHBOURHOOD BURGER PLACE THAT HAS POPPED UP ON SANDYMOUNT GREEN”

Street; and Irish-European fusion Trocadero, on Andrew Street (where you’ll be met by the best maître d’ in Dublin). For more fine dining why not try Mae Restaurant in Ballsbridge which prides itself on its modern, seasonal dishes with superb wine pairings to match?

For dinner before visiting the National Concert Hall, you can’t go wrong with the elegant Dax Restaurant – or Pearl Brasserie, on nearby Merrion Street Upper. Forest Avenue on Sussex Terrace, meanwhile, is a simple neighbourhood dining room serving inventive modern menus with an emphasis on seasonality.

For Michelin-star standard at non-Michelin prices, visit two restaurants near the Grand Canal – Locks Restaurant, in Portobello, which has returned to being one of the best in Dublin; and Craft Restaurant, in Harold’s Cross, a champion of modern Irish cuisine, with an excellent five-course tasting menu.

A spinoff from Bastible, in the eastern part of Dublin 8 –which is rapidly becoming Dublin’s most interesting area –Clanbrassil House offers à la carte during the week and set menus at the weekend, including top-notch vegetarian options.

BISTROS TO BURGERS

For 20-somethings, the hottest new name in the city centre at the minute is Roberta’s, in Temple Bar. From the outside, it looks something akin to a disco. Inside, the ambience is much more regal, like something out of the 1920s, with booths and period décor. Roofed with a glass ceiling, it’s a spacious bistro catering for reasonably priced dining. They also do brunch.

Also located in Temple Bar, The Shack Restaurant offers an expansive, wholesome, and nourishing, while its roots are still firmly embedded in its Irish heritage.

Along the popular Camden Street, Delahunt is a restaurant dining room, cocktail sitting room and café in one, fusing Victorian decadence and smart, modern Irish dining from local producers in one atmospheric setting.

Dublin remains in the grip of a burger boom. And the finest specimen can also be had in Temple Bar – Bunsen, a small Dublin chain, also with branches at South Anne Street, Wexford Street, Dame Street and Baggot Street. Running a close second is Wowburger – a burger bar with a 50s feel that’s perfect for a pre-cinema dinner. It has 11 branches in Dublin, including on Wexford Street, Parnell Street and Wicklow Street. Bóbó’s now has three locations – Dame Street, Wexford Street and Abbey Street, and offers pork and lamb burgers as well as veggie and vegan options. For those mourning the demise of Joburger, BuJo is a neighbourhood burger place that has popped up on Sandymount Green, near Seamus Heaney’s old home.

The best Italian restaurant, meanwhile, is Manifesto, in Rathmines, where you can choose a regular, wholemeal, black vegetable or gluten free base. Also for pizza, check out Paulie’s Pizza, and Gaillot et Gray. For wider Italian options, see classy Irish chain Dunne and Crescenzi, who now have three branches across the city. For cuisine from across the Mediterranean basin, head down Leeson Street and visit House Dublin, a bar with an excellent, if small, selection of main courses and tapas.

Tapas is everywhere now, and reflects modern Dubliners’ tastes much more than coddle, a traditional stew made up of leftovers from various dishes that is native to the capital. In Temple Bar, Pinxto dishes up plenty of tapas classics, alongside excellent Spanish wines, while the cavernous Market Bar on Fade Street offers more casual dining, specialising in groups. For other tapas options, try Las Tapas de Lolas, The French Paradox – or any place you happen to be passing.

For other lighter food options, check out the threestorey Fallon & Byrne food emporium, with a basement

One of Dublin’s most stylish café-bars, Café 1920 is the kind of place you will lose yourself in and forget the pressures of city life. A huge range of food choices available from brunch to dinner.

Why not share a charcuterie and cheese board over a bottle of wine or start with the Dublin Bay seafood chowder followed by a smoked pancetta linguini and finish off with the Fleet chocolate and nut terrine. There are vegetarian and vegan options as well as an alfresco terrace menu.

The Fleet Street Hotel is perfectly positioned at the quieter end of the renowned Temple Bar, yet only moments away from the hustle and bustle. The Fleet Hotel Temple Bar, 19-20 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, Ireland

www.fleethoteltemplebar.com

“IF ONE PICO IS FULLY BOOKED, POP INTO THE IVY, ON DAWSON STREET, FOR CLASSIC BRITISH AND EUROPEAN COOKING IN ELEGANT SURROUNDINGS”

wine bar, a ground-floor deli and an excellent restaurant on the first floor. On Merrion Row, there’s also a new opening, Etto, serving light European dining in a casual setting.

For more modern Irish fine dining, visit Richmond Restaurant – between Wexford Street and Rathmines –where you’ll be blown away by the presentation, and the transformation of the old Gigs Place, a traditional post-clubbing haunt that closed in 2012. The mix of French and Irish dining in One Pico, meanwhile, will have you staying for afters. Try the passion fruit soufflé – a dessert from heaven.

If One Pico is fully booked, pop into The Ivy, on Dawson Street, for classic British and European cooking in elegant surroundings; or Ely Wine Bar, just off St. Stephen’s Green on Ely Place. North of the Liffey, there’s The Winding Stair, a charming, classy restaurant serving up old-fashioned Irish food with all the class and none of the fuss of some more expensive eateries. It’s based on the upper floor of a famous old bookshop, and looks out onto the iconic Ha’penny Bridge.

Also based in the popular Dawson Street and St. Stephen’s Green vicinity, FIRE Steakhouse & Bar prides itself on creating menus that focus on utilising fresh, in-season

produce to create dishes bursting with a multitude of flavours. The restaurant is firmly committed to supporting sustainable local Irish produce and only serves the finest selection of award-winning meats and produce that Ireland has to offer.

By far the biggest culinary trend in Dublin remains coffee and light dining. The city swims in caffeine, and brunch spots are everywhere. The Fumbally, the stylish warehouse that sparked a food revolution, is at the forefront of this. Around the corner is The Cheeky Piglet – a tapas and coffee bar. Elsewhere, there is the idiosyncratic Press Café, wonderfully located in a greenhouse at the National Print Museum, on Haddington Road.

COFFEE, CAKES & BREAKFAST

On the other side of the Liffey, meanwhile, Capel Street has plenty of interesting and ever-changing offerings. Brother Hubbard serves excellent coffee, cakes and breakfast, while snacks and cakes are on offer at artsy Mish.Mash, including plenty of vegan options and wines by the glass. At Café Lisboa, just off the main drag on Mary Street Little, you can find pasteis de nata to rival those found in Lisbon.

The Morning – named after a Bob Dylan tune – is unpretentious in its excellence, and is worth popping off the main Camden Street drag for its unusual coffee combinations. Little Bird, on South Circular Road, is also great for a post-yoga sandwich, as is Wall and Keogh. Closer to town, you’ll find Simon’s Place, and Camden Kitchen, a welcoming neighbourhood bistro. Avoca Café, on Suffolk Street, is perfect for a post-shopping natter.

Although still catching up with London, Dublin’s ethnic food range is a world away from where it was 20 years

ABOVE FOR WINE AND LIGHTER FOOD OPTIONS, CHECK OUT THE FALLON & BYRNE AT DUBLIN

ago. A fabulous option is Gursha, an Ethiopian restaurant on Poolbeg Street open Wednesday to Sunday. Try their vegan truck trio.

For Korean and Japanese fusion, Dubliners of all ages flock across the river to Parnell Street for the formidable offerings at Kimchi Hophouse. Try the excellent bulgogi, served on a sizzling pan, followed by some Korean beer.

Yamamori South City, on the Southside, near George’s Street, offers cool, casual Japanese dining, while Banyi Japanese Dining offers a traditional menu (and traditional surrounds) with excellent sushi.

FORMAL ATMOSPHERE

The availability of South East Asian street food has improved dramatically over the last decade, partly in response to the thousands of Irish people who have toured South East Asia, and now want the taste of massaman or pad Thai back in the auld sod. Neon, on Camden Street – or one of the Saba branches – are favourites among young creatives, while for a slightly more formal atmosphere, try Thai Spice, tucked away between BusÁras and Talbot Street.

There are high-quality Indian and South Asian restaurants everywhere, but one particular favourite is Kinara Kitchen, in Ranelagh – serving mainly Pakistani cuisine. For fantastic, fresh Indian street

ABOVE RIGHT THE FUMBALLY INCLUDES A WIDE RANGE OF THOUGHTFULLY-MADE DISHES

food in buzzing surroundings, try Kerala Kitchen, on Baggot Street. Their weekend brunch is particularly good, and there’s a second branch in Stoneybatter.

The expansion of Dublin’s small Muslim community has brought diverse dining. For top-quality Moroccan food, experience the distinctly traditional ambience of El Bahia, on Wicklow Street. Dada, on South William Street – as befits its location – is more suited to the pre-clubbing crowd. There are a growing number of Middle Eastern offerings around Camden Street, too.

Also on South William Street is Pink – a restaurant specialising in afternoon tea and colourful offerings, including a pink prawn cocktail and wagyu burgers.

As befitting the capital of a country supplying the purest, healthiest beef in the world, Dublin does a great grill. The Chophouse, in Beggars Bush, is a firm favourite – and is handy for a rugby or soccer match at the nearby Lansdowne Road. Cleaver East, Butcher Grill, Bison Bar & BBQ, and The Pig’s Ear all offer excellent steaks, meanwhile.

On St. Stephen’s Green, you’re spoiled for choice. A particular favourite is Shanahan’s on the Green, an authentic, American-style steakhouse and seafood restaurant. If you’re seeking a more straightforward taste of American barbecue, visit Pitt Bros BBQ, on George’s Street. Nearby is the effortlessly hip 777,

Flanagans

A family-run business since 1980, we offer a warm welcome, excellent hospitality and great food at exceptional prices. Our main floor is home to our beautiful, Art Deco-inspired dining room, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Our outdoor seating offers Dublin’s premier spot to people watch on O’Connell Street with a cup of our outstanding artisan coffee.

Speakeasy Lounge

The lounge at Flanagans is an ode to the speakeasies of the Art Deco era. With a private bar, jazz piano, intimate tables and lighting, it’s home to many of our events including jazz nights, match games, and private functions.

Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl

Experience Dublin’s:

• traditional music • great pubs

• Irish dancing • songs & stories

We run two crawls per night:

• The Musical Pub Crawl Dinner Show (starting at 6.00pm)

• The Musical Pub Crawl (starting at 7.30pm)

Book online www.musicalpubcrawl.com

Or call (01) 475 8345

For reservations

bookings@flanagansrestaurant.ie

+353 1 873 1388

Flanagans Restauarnt, 61 O’connell Street Upper, Dublin 1, Ireland

www.flanagansrestaurant.ie

The Shack Restaurant opened its doors in 1996 in the heart of Temple Bar when the area was young and undeveloped. Now, more than 25 years later, the Shack Restaurant continues to welcome guests from around the world, offering the best of Irish cuisine.

Situated across the road from the famous Temple Bar Pub, in the heart of the bustling Temple Bar area, which has a well-deserved reputation as the cultural heart of Dublin. Covering just a few blocks on the south bank of the River Liffey, the area comprises the best that the Irish capital has to offer –from top class restaurants, lively bars to theatres and world-renowned art galleries. With its cobbled alleyways, quirky boutiques and street performers, the atmosphere is homely and nostalgic.

The restaurant seats 55 guests, with a small outdoor terrace for those who like to dine “taobh amuigh”. The Shack Restaurant offers a modern twist on something that is quintessentially Irish. The menu is wholesome and nourishing, while its roots are still firmly grounded in its Irish heritage. Some of the dishes are old favourites with a twist, while others are our own creations.

specialising in Mexican dishes. You’ll find burrito bars everywhere, and, for more serious Mexican dining, try the fiesta cavern that is Xico, on Baggot Street.

If you’ve had the turf, try the surf. Dublin is a seafood city. In the inner city, Fish Shop, on Benburb Street – an area increasingly abuzz with new eateries – brings a modern twist to the ancient staple of fish and chips. Downriver, in Temple Bar, try The Seafood Café for platters of oysters, lobster and prawns. Leo Burdock’s, meanwhile, is a safe bet for great traditional chips (chunky fries to American visitors) to go.

SOLE Seafood & Grill is another unmissable Dublin restaurant. Each day its culinary team prepare the very best of products with great passion and care to enhance their pure flavours; among them are fresh oysters from Ireland’s coastal waters, top-quality Irish beef that is carefully dry-aged in-house by SOLE’s own chefs, delicately smoked salmon from Howth and the finest Irish lobsters.

But the seafood centre of excellence remains, undisputedly, Howth. Pop into Aqua Restaurant for a glorious Sunday lunch, where you’ll be inundated with large helpings of steak lobster amid superb views of Lambay Island via the floor-to-ceiling windows. The whole of Howth’s West Quay is brimming with seafood wonders, and The Oar House offers huge variety, and al-fresco dining in summer. On West Pier, The Brass Monkey is famed for its sharing seafood platters and seafood chowder.

And then, there’s an exciting new arrival in Howth –Mamó. It offers fine dining in an intimate setting right by

the sea. Their menu is seasonal so changes regularly, but you’ll find gems such as grilled razor clams with garlic and herb butter and dry-aged Thornhill duck pie with girolles. They source all their lobster, meat and veg from the surrounding North Dublin countryside – and even list their suppliers on their website.

A popular haunt for seafood fans is Cavistons Seafood Restaurant, which showcases the freshest fish and shellfish in Dublin, and sits beside their impressive food hall. Menus, selected by head chef Noel Cusack, change daily depending on the fresh catch from the Irish fishing fleets. Inside the award-winning restaurant, the décor is intimate and chic, with wooden tables and sea-themed art.

VEGAN & VEGETARIAN CAFÉS

Then, there’s vegan and vegetarian Dublin, a rapidly growing sector. The very reasonably priced Cornucopia, on Wicklow Street, is the most beloved veggie restaurant, combining contemporary and art nouveau styles over two floors. For cheaper animal-friendly plates, head to Govinda’s, on Middle Abbey Street.

Vegan and vegetarian cafés have sprung up since the pandemic. Reflecting the popularity of Phibsborough, most are in nearby districts. Veginity, on Dorset Street, has a seasonal menu providing healthy and imaginative offerings, such as pretend chorizo, a Buddha bowl with smokey tofu and a classic vegan bangers and mash. They are geniuses.

Kale and Coco is a great vegan place on the Northside, albeit in Grangegorman, which specialises in smoothie

ABOVE RIGHT CAVISTONS IS A CONTEMPORARY, FAMILY-RUN RESTAURANT SERVING FRESH FISH & SEAFOOD FOR BOTH LUNCH & DINNER

©CAVISTONS; ING IMAGE; JOE GOUGH/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“DUBLIN BOASTS A COLLECTION OF MOSTLY VEGETARIAN OR VEGGIEFRIENDLY PLACES, LIKE TWO PUPS, RUSTIC STONE, UMI FALAFEL, AND THE PALEO SPECIALISTS, STAPLE FOODS”

bowls. In nearby Stoneybatter, V-Face offers ‘lethal burgers with no killing’. POG café, meanwhile, has grown to five outlets, with hip cafés on Tara Street and Bachelors Walk in the city centre, as well as in Malahide, Clontarf and a full restaurant out in Howth. They specialise in pancakes and vegan afternoon tea, and offer a beautiful superfood salad.

Salad is a growing trend. Sprout & Co – an Irish chain –is the best of the bunch, and has several branches across the city. Blazing Salads, on Drury Street, provides stiff competition, and wins the award for the best-named eatery in Ireland. Sova Vegan Butcher mimics meat dishes in imaginative, vegetarian ways.

The Dublin Food Co-op now operates in Kilmainham, due to the ongoing intense development of the Liberties area. Kilmainham is up there with Phibsborough for Dublin’s most up-and-coming district, and three minutes from Kilmainham Gaol is Cool Hand Coffee Roasters.

There is also a collection of mostly vegetarian or veggie-friendly places, like Two Pups, Rustic Stone, Umi Falafel, and the paleo specialists, Staple Foods. Umi Falafel is going from strength to strength, with five outlets in the city.

Given that many visitors come to taste the city’s most famous export, Guinness, the city is thankfully overflowing with amazing brunch places to ease into the morning after the night before. For an old-fashioned ‘greasy spoon’ – more of a British than an Irish tradition – visit Beanhive Coffee,

on Dawson Street. There’s also Café Sofia, on Wexford Street; Brendan’s Café, on Mary’s Lane, on the Northside; and Keoghs Café, bang in the middle, on Trinity Street, just off Grafton Street. For a fry-up with tasty home-made bread, go for Catherine’s Bakery, on Meath Street. Or try Sophie’s at The Dean, which offers panoramic views across South Dublin city.

Dillinger’s, in Ranelagh, offers heaps of comfort food, cilled staff and a great selection of drinks of the alcoholic and non-alcoholic variety. For a bottomless brunch, pop over to Thundercut Alley, in Smithfield.

COMFORTABLE DINING

The list of brunch spots is endless. Try Platform 61, on South William Street; Angelina’s Restaurant on Percy Place; Cleaver East, in Temple Bar; or, for those slightly out of the city centre, Two Boys Brew in Phibsborough or The Revolution, in Rathgar. For comfortable dining in the quiet part of Temple Bar, meanwhile, try Queen of Tarts, on Cow’s Lane. Cafés are replacing pubs as the natural habitat for many Dubliners, and you’ll see digital nomads hanging out at Cloud Picker Café on Pearse Street or the pet-friendly Soren & Son, on Dean Street.

From Michelin stars to vegan hangouts to coffee-drinkers’ paradise – as the locals in Phibsborough might say – sure where would you get it?

LIVING FOR THE WEEKEND

ONLY HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? HERE ARE SOME IDEAS FOR A MEMORABLE SHORT BREAK TO DUBLIN

Start with a wander through Stephen’s Green, before ambling past the buskers and performers of Grafton Street to Trinity College, where – depending on queues – a visit to the Long Room and the Book of Kells is a must.

From Trinity, walk through Suffolk Street to Andrew’s Street, and explore the shops on Exchequer, Wicklow and South William Streets – including the stylish Powerscourt Centre – before walking past St Patrick’s Cathedral for a spot of organic lunch at The Fumbally.

Taking a couple of flapjacks to go, visiting Dublin Castle and the wonderful Chester Beatty is but the work of a moment – or rather 10 minutes, via Dame Street. From there, walk back to Temple Bar for a Dublin-style Irish beef burger at Bunsen, or Wowburger. Or, for veggies, head to Cornucopia on Wicklow Street.

After a quick post-dinner pint at P. Mac’s, round off the night with some traditional music at The Temple Bar – or craft beers at Porterhouse – before moving on to Copper Face Jacks on Harcourt Street.

If you’re like most visitors to Dublin, your might need a gentle second day. Pop in for tea at the Queen of Tarts on Lovers Lane, or a classy breakfast at Dublin institution Bewley’s on Grafton Street. Right, you’ve had your Barry’s Tea – now it’s time for a gentle stroll around one of Dublin’s many galleries, starting with the National Gallery near Merrion Square, or the nearby National Museum and National Library.

“TAKE A GENTLE STROLL AROUND ONE OF THE CITY’S MANY GALLERIES, STARTING WITH THE NATIONAL GALLERY NEAR MERRION SQUARE, OR THE NEARBY NATIONAL MUSEUM”

On the western side of the city centre, nestling in leafy Kilmainham, lies the Irish Museum of Modern Art – an amazing mix of landscaped gardens, cutting-edge art and a getaway from the noise of the city. After all this culture, it’s time to get a bird’s eye view of the city – and some stout, at the Guinness Storehouse, where the last admission is 5pm.

If the weather is fine, you might prefer a selection of parks in which to take a breather. Merrion Square, or Fitzwilliam Square are near the National Gallery but – on the other side of the city centre – there is Phoenix Park, the largest enclosed urban park in Europe, containing herds of fallow deer, well-managed natural forest, Dublin Zoo, the impressive Farmleigh House, and Áras an Uachtaráin, the official residence of the Irish President.

For dinner, depending on location, try Kimchi Hophouse on Parnell Street, Fade Street Social on Fade Street, or enjoy sublime Thai food from Neon.

For the evening, explore north of the Liffey and have a pint at The Cobblestone before ending at the Workman’s Club on the quays.

DAY 1 

DAY 2 

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DISCOVER A HIVE OF CULTURE AND CREATIVITY

CULTURE VULTURES ASSEMBLE! THIS CITY OFFERS THE PERFECT MIX OF GALLERIES, MUSEUMS, EXHIBITIONS AND FESTIVALS

Pound for pound, word per person, it is doubtful any city can match Dublin for literary output over the years. From Jonathan Swift to Oscar Wilde, WB Yeats to James Joyce, George Bernard Shaw to Samuel Beckett, Flann O’Brien to Patrick Kavanagh, Brendan Behan and Frank O’Connor to Seamus Heaney, the city has been either home to or birthplace of some of the titans of literature.

Just walking the city is retracing the steps of Leopold Bloom, the Jewish anti-hero of Joyce’s epic Ulysses. And, each year, Joyceans celebrate Bloomsday in his honour, revisiting the city as it was when the modern Odysseus strolled around Dublin. The city’s literary heritage drips from its every pore, and Irish literature remains as vital as ever.

On the northern side of Parnell Square, you’ll find Dublin City Gallery, The Hugh Lane. Although not everyone is enamoured by the emphasis placed on the studio of Francis Bacon, the rest of the gallery – named after a Corkman who returned to Dublin after striking it

big in London – is stupendous. Here, you’ll find Renoir, Manet, Morisot and Pissarro – and, a highlight, the Stained Glass Room. There is also a small newer section devoted to the controversial Irish abstract painter Sean Scully, who draws heavily from Rothko.

Further east, along the north side at Spencer Dock, lies the Green On Red Gallery, on Park Lane, representing some of the finest new and contemporary art on the market. Look out for their thought-provoking thematic exhibitions.

AN ARTISTIC GEM

If that’s not enough, pop over to the jewel in the crown –the National Gallery of Ireland, off Merrion Square, at the heart of the city’s government and museum district. The gallery is home to a celebrated Caravaggio, The Taking of Christ. It’s a perfect example of the artist’s use of the sfumato and chiaroscuro modes, which partly came about due to Caravaggio’s habit of spending his money on alcohol

rather than on brighter, more expensive colours. The artist sends himself up in the painting, with a self-portrait, holding a lantern to the right of the main subject.

Also here is Van Gogh, Van Dyck, Titian, Tintoretto, Fra Angelico and a supremely naturalistic Vermeer, A Lady Writing a Letter, which has been stolen twice – once in 1974 and once in 1986 – before being recovered in 1993.

Although including some supreme examples of European art from the 14th to the 20th centuries, the museum specialises in Irish works. Here, you’ll find a whole room dedicated to the most famous Irish painter, Jack B Yeats. An Olympic medallist and the brother of William Butler, the lesser-known Yeats painted in an impressionist style, which finds full expression in The Liffey Swim, The Singing Horseman and Men of Destiny

The gallery also houses paintings by Picasso, Monet, Degas and Delacroix, as well as paintings from Goya, El Greco and the British artists Gainsborough and Hogarth. There are 13,000 artworks all told, including some outstanding prints and drawings, featuring Irish and British artists, like Hugh Douglas Hamilton, John Robert Cozens,

“THE JEWEL IN DUBLIN’S CROWN IS THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND, OFF MERRION SQUARE, AT THE HEART OF THE CITY’S MUSEUM DISTRICT.”

William Orpen and Paul Henry, as well as continental European names, like Paul Cézanne and Emil Nolde.

Look out for some exciting exhibitions in 2023, including major shows by Lavinia Fontana and John Lavery.

The Chester Beatty is a treasure often overlooked by visitors and Dubliners alike. It houses some of Europe’s foremost religious artefacts in a splendid setting in the Clock Tower in Dublin Castle’s gardens. Founded by a New Yorker industrialist, the library houses displays from Western, Islamic and East Asian civilisations.

Tourists who will queue up all day to see the Book of Kells (housed at The Library of Trinity College) are missing out –the calligraphy on display here is spellbinding, as are the Qur’an collections and New Testament scrolls made from papyrus. Don’t miss the magnificent Zen rooftop terrace, a counterpart to the landscaped gardens at ground level.

VARIED COLLECTIONS

For a broader look at the natural and crafted treasures of Ireland’s varied history, see the National Museum of Ireland’s four branches – Archaeology, Decorative Arts and History, Natural History and Country Life – which are all free of charge. Visitors can enjoy collections that span Irish history from prehistoric times to the present day, and discover more about the country’s heritage, culture and traditions. There are also displays from other ancient cultures of the world, providing a unique insight into how these people lived and died.

For an exposition of more modern Irish artistry, look no further than Irish film, a growing source of cultural pride for Dubliners. It’s been a heady few years for Irish film, including sundry Academy Award nominations in 2016 and 2019, multiple Golden Globe nods, and Academy Award and Golden Globe wins in 2022. Not to mention box-office hits for films such as Brooklyn, Room, Sing Street, Young Offenders and The Banshees of Inisherin. Animation is a

particular growth area, with an Oscar nomination for Wolfwalkers, an Apple streaming production made in Kilkenny.

The spiritual home of Irish arthouse cinema remains the Irish Film Institute (IFI), in Temple Bar, which doubles as a cinema and restaurant. The Lighthouse Cinema, across the Liffey, in Smithfield – quirky and bigger – is also making a name for itself, with curated ‘event cinema’ and the annual Dublin International Film Festival in February and March.

Theatre is still important. Over a century ago, WB Yeats, Lady Gregory and the other leading lights of the Celtic Revival founded the Abbey Theatre – the cinema of its day. Though no longer the main pastime of the average Dubliner compared to a century ago, the Abbey still remains vibrant, and together with the Gate Theatre, The 3Olympia Theatre, the Mill Theatre in Dundrum and the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, it means there’s always a good selection of live shows on offer.

As befits a nation that has music in its blood, Dublin specialises in live music seven nights of the week. Whelan’s remains the spiritual home of independent music, although The Grand Social and The Workman’s Club will often have more up-to-date acts, especially up-and-coming bands. The Academy, on nearby Middle Abbey Street, has a strong line-up of visiting live acts, and specialises in indie and urban acts, with prices usually between €10 and €30.

“THE DUBLIN THEATRE FESTIVAL – THE OLDEST IN EUROPE –TAKES PLACE IN SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER. SEPTEMBER ALSO SEES DUBLIN FRINGE FESTIVAL”

The Dublin Theatre Festival – the oldest in Europe –takes place in September and October. September also sees Dublin Fringe Festival, a curated arts shindig showing off the cutting-edge and emerging artists in theatre, music, live arts, dance and spectacle. The Project Arts Centre, in Temple Bar, is the hub for this throughout the year. Of course, for a lot of locals and tourists alike, the Irish pub will be at the centre of their cultural diet.

Just by the Ha’penny Bridge, there are another two good live venues, for bigger shows – music and theatre. The Bord Gáis Energy Theatre is a fine venue in a newly elegant location, overlooking Silicon Docks. The Ha’penny Bridge Inn also has a wide variety of blues, comedy and traditional music.

Dublin is the city of the musical open mic, with notable nights at Sin É and Whelan’s. Although modernday folk musicians in Dublin seem more intent on recreating the sound of Bob Dylan and Woody Guthrie than of Dublin singer Luke Kelly, traditional Irish-style folk music remains a big draw in Temple Bar, where you’ll find establishments like Oliver St. John Gogarty’s, The Temple Bar, Merchant’s Arch and The Old Storehouse knocking out rousing rebel tunes and soulful ballads.

Temple Bar TradFest sees the best traditional instrumental musicians come together as January draws to a close, but throughout the year there are fine traditional

ABOVE CATCH STUNNING PERFORMANCES SUCH AS LOST LEAR AT DUBLIN THEATRE FESTIVAL

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musicians on show throughout the city, including the famous O’Donoghue’s Bar on Merrion Row; The Cobblestone, in Smithfield; Pipers Corner, on Marlborough Street; Devitt’s, on Camden Street; and Peadar Kearney’s, on Dame Street.

For a more mindful musical experience, try the National Concert Hall for classical and operatic music. For decades after independence, classical music was tainted by not being obviously Irish in origin, playing second fiddle (or violin) to ballads, then to the traditional boom in the 1960s, then the rock showband era, and then to the pop/rock bands like Thin Lizzy and U2.

Yet, despite limited demand and a lack of an operatic or classical tradition (bar Count John McCormack), Ireland’s Dublin-based national broadcaster RTÉ still manages to support two orchestras, a string quartet and two choirs. There is also the Dublin Philharmonic Orchestra.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT

The best venue to listen to orchestral, classical and world music remains the National Concert Hall, on Earlsfort Terrace, near St Stephen’s Green – the site of the historic Treaty debates, which decided Ireland’s independence (and led to the Civil War, 1921-23).

As well as a full programme of events there, in August, Dublin City Council also holds Opera in The Open in the city’s parks. There are also operas at the Gaiety and Bord Gáis Energy Theatres throughout the year. The latter –due to the presence of Google, Facebook et al – is also the usual spot for the best touring West End musicals.

The biggest touring bands, meanwhile, normally play at 3Arena and Aviva Stadium, with the occasional super gig at Croke Park.

Contrary to the cliché, not all Irish people spend their free time guzzling Guinness, and with nightclubs on the way out due to strict licensing laws, there is an increasing movement towards enjoying artistic pursuits without alcohol, led by mental health-conscious festivals, like First Fortnight; alcohol-free drinking den The Virgin Mary; or the bingo raves of Bingo Loco.

In September, meanwhile, Culture Night brings the city alive, with events happening at locations as diverse as the Goethe-Institut and the Dublin Buddhist Centre, on James Joyce Street. It’s all a far cry from the Dublin of Leopold Bloom.

ABOVE VISIT DUBLIN’S WONDERFUL NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM; BELOW A PITCHSIDE VIEW OF AVIVA STADIUM ©BOULENGER XAVIER/PAVEL

WELCOME TO THE NIGHT

THE NIGHTLIFE IN DUBLIN IS THRIVING, PACKED WITH CLUBS, PUBS, BARS AND LIVE MUSIC VENUES

Dublin is a city of over 1,000 pubs. There are ‘old man’ pubs of the silent variety; loud, brash ‘superpubs’; hipster hangouts; music pubs (most of them are music pubs); wine bars; cocktail bars; gastropubs; café bars; sports bars; poser hangouts; hook-up clubs; upmarket members’ clubs and – of course – tourist traps cheerfully selling paddywhackery by the 568ml glass.

PUBS & CLUBS

Although the times of elderly punters spending their days in the local boozer appear to be dying off amid rising pre-drinking at home, you’ll still find pubs and clubs busy every night of the week. Unlike on the continent, where alcohol is served in a ‘demi’ (250ml) or ‘grande’ (500ml), most Dubliners will have a pint (568ml) or a 330ml bottle of beer or stout – with some still going for a half-pint.

Although Temple Bar is known far and wide, most Dubliners are happy to leave the streets between Dame

Street and the river to the tourists, and congregate instead in the streets around George’s Street, Grafton Street and out to Baggot Street and Rathmines.

There is no shortage of variety. You could spend a whole evening going from pub to pub on the tiny Fade Street alone. The Market Bar usually has room for groups and families, while Hogans is popular with the after-work crowd. A few doors down is the Bar With No Name, on Fade Street, with a low-key entrance opening onto three large Victorian townhouse rooms and a large patio area. Across George’s Street, The Long Hall is lavishly decorated, and tends to have few tourists, but can get extremely crowded after work.

On the same street, you’ll find The George – a delightfully decorated nightclub and a mainstay of the Dublin LGBTQ+ scene. Across the street, plush J.T Pim’s offers cocktails, craft beer and a basement gin and rum bar.

You’ve also got a range of nightclubs all around the George’s Street/Temple Bar area, from the very cool Mezz,

ABOVE DISCOVER TEMPLE BAR’S DIVERSE RANGE OF NIGHTLIFE, FROM TRADITIONAL PUBS TO QUIRKY BARS

to Vintage Cocktail Club and Izakaya, set in the basement of a Japanese restaurant.

On nearby Lower Stephen Street, pop into hipster hangout P. Mac’s, nicely hidden and decorated like a Victorian curiosity shop. The vast array of craft beers and decent setlist make up for its vague air of smugness. If the over-coiffured clientele get too much for you, The Hairy Lemon down the street is a solid pub to watch a match in, while one block over lies South William Street, with a variety of pubs and nightclubs of varying degrees of quality and trendiness.

As evening draws in, the area becomes crowded with revellers – but remains curiously open to cars, due to the demands of the Brown Thomas multi-storey carpark. Here, you’ll find the famous and gloriously down-to-earth Grogan’s. Get your drink, take a seat outside, and watch the well-heeled saunter into the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre across the way.

There, teenagers and those in their early 20s congregate outside the busy Pygmalion. Across the street, Dakota goes for the more classic American-style bar.

For drinks and dancing in Art Deco opulence, head to Farrier and Draper, which has a mixture of elegant spaces spread over three floors, serving cocktails, pints and food.

On the corner, at the junction of South William, Exchequer, Wicklow and St Andrew’s Streets, sits a Dublin institution – The International Bar, a hub for comedy, as well as live music. Depending on the night, you could find

blues bands upstairs, traditional sessions in the main bar, excellent live cover bands, or spoken-word poetry.

If you fancy something a bit more upmarket with food, The Green Hen is a European-style bistro with an excellent wine list. On summer nights, nearby Dame Court and Dame Lane provide a natural amphitheatre for people socialising inside and outside of a whole host of excellent pubs –notably the Stag’s Head, a period house popular with young poets; and The Dame Tavern, quiet and relaxing during the week, but full to bursting otherwise. You’ll also find the more clubbish 4 Dame Lane and the musical Mercantile Hotel & Bar.

VINTAGE STYLE

Sadly, the legendary Sweeney’s – a three-storey extravaganza of music and interesting smoking-area aromas – is now gone. It has been replaced by Mulligan and Haines, a new cocktail bar designed in vintage style, for more upmarket clients than its predecessor.

For old-fashioned entertainment, it’s worth popping into The Bankers Bar, at the end of Dame Lane – they regularly have open mics for music and comedy downstairs.

Another nightlife area beloved of Dublin locals comprises the streets to either side of Grafton Street. Here, Kehoe’s stands apart from the crowd. Kehoe’s is run the way almost all bars in Dublin used to be run – no trouble, no trendiness, a grand carpet, and a good pint. You can watch the after-work crowd, catch some sport, play some piano, >> p53

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or – when the weather allows of an evening – pour onto South Anne Street, sit on the kerb, and enjoy the genial atmosphere.

Further down, off Grafton Street, on Duke Street, The Duke provides a similar atmosphere. On the other side of Grafton Street sit two twin pubs – Bruxelles and McDaids. They’re polar opposites in many ways.

McDaids is typical of the ‘old man’ pub – a designation meant as a compliment. Like most good pubs of its type, it keeps the noise low. There isn’t blaring music or piped TV to distract the clientele from the very important business of social interaction. It’s a pub to be present in, to respect the atmosphere – and, of course, to laugh along with the locals.

MULTI-FACETED MUSIC HUB

On the same street stands a statue of Phil Lynnot, the late Crumlin bassist behind Thin Lizzy’s hits. Beside him is Bruxelles (pronounced with a hard ‘x’), a multi-faceted music hub. Unlike McDaids, it’s loud, it’s hopping – and it’s often great craic, a sort of living room and disco rolled into one.

Around the corner, meanwhile, lies Neary’s Bar & Lounge – a pub popular for discreet dates due to its nooks and crannies. Neary’s is also popular among the acting crowd, and its links with famous patrons, like Flann O’Brien and the Dubliners’ Ronnie Drew, have earned its title as a UNESCO City of Literature Bar.

For more upmarket pints near Stephen’s Green, the Horseshoe Bar, in The Shelbourne Hotel, is an old institution, once beloved of the old rogues of official and unofficial Ireland. Or, for a bit of excitement, try a

>> p54

“MCDAIDS IS TYPICAL OF THE ‘OLD MAN’ PUB – A DESIGNATION MEANT AS A COMPLIMENT. LIKE MOST GOOD PUBS OF ITS TYPE, IT KEEPS THE NOISE LOW”

TOP TREAT YOURSELF TO A COCKTAIL AT THE PALACE BAR; BOTTOM RIGHT TO ENJOY THE GENIAL ATMOSPHERE HEAD TO SOUTH ANNE STREET

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secret bar, like the Blind Pig, or – the most difficult to enter – the Hacienda Bar, in Smithfield.

Around the corner from The Shelbourne is Café en Seine, which has a certain faded grandeur which draws customers of a certain age. With its palm trees and slightly gaudy décor, it’s often best experienced during the day, when they do a fine food menu.

Outside the city, a new addition is Little Mike’s, in Mount Merrion, serving wine and seafood, with a nice little snug, and walk-ins welcome.

EXCELLENT CRAFT BEERS

For late-night high jinks in the city, Copper Face Jacks is a Dublin institution – in every sense of the word. This Georgian building is, from 10.30pm or so, the haunt of young nurses and Guards (policemen and women) from every corner of rural Ireland. Serving until some unspecific hour between 1am and 3.30am, ‘Coppers’ is a great introduction to how clubbing works in the rest of Ireland outside the cities of Cork and Dublin. There are cheesy tunes, and lots of drink taken.

The Coppers crowd will often turn up earlier in the evening at Flannery’s Bar, on Camden Street, a GAA hotspot. A few doors down, Against the Grain, on Wexford Street, serves excellent craft beers, while across the street, Whelan’s is great for live music and late-evening carousing.

The Bleeding Horse, meanwhile, is an excellent pub, although a bit of a labyrinth. Legend has it that it was so named due to the dishevelled condition of passing horses by the time they reached that part of Dublin’s suburbs. The best bar on Camden Street, however, is Anseo, with its excellent music, wonderfully laconic bar staff and decidedly unpretentious air.

Dublin’s drinkers are getting more self-consciously fashionable, a phenomenon you can experience at hipster hangout The Bernard Shaw (located in Drumcondra) and its long-lost cousin, Blackbird, in Rathmines. Yet, down at Rathmines crossroads itself, there’s a fine bar with a nice snug and great staff –Slattery’s.

Outside the Grafton-Rathmines nexus, there is, of course, Temple Bar, with excellent balladeers at the Auld Dubliner, The Temple Bar and Oliver St. John Gogarty’s. Locals will prefer The Palace Bar (a fine whiskey bar), The Porterhouse, or head across the river to Sin É or the Grand Social, a lively music and events venue. One interesting new addition is The Wild Duck theatre bar, on Sycamore Street, in Temple Bar, around the corner from 3Olympia Theatre. There are also plenty of upmarket pubs for those with deep pockets, not least 9 Below, on St Stephen’s Green, or The Octagon Bar in the Clarence Hotel, owned by U2.

ABOVE WHISKEY ENTHUSIASTS CAN INDULGE THEIR PASSION AT THE DUBLIN LIBERTIES DISTILLERY; OPPOSITE PAGE TOP THE HORSESHOE BAR AT THE SHELBOURNE HOTEL

“AN INTERESTING NEW ADDITION TO DUBLIN’S NIGHTLIFE IS THE WILD DUCK THEATRE BAR ON SYCAMORE STREET IN TEMPLE BAR, AROUND THE CORNER FROM 3OLYMPIA THEATRE”

Whiskey enthusiasts can indulge their passion at city favourites The Dingle Whiskey Bar, on Nassau Street, and The Dublin Liberties Distillery, on Mill Street.

But Dubliners of all stripes prefer a down-to-earth pub to a swanky bar. Far from the madding crowd – and slightly off the beaten track, down Poolbeg Street – lies a pub called Mulligan’s, famous for its characters. Down the red Luas line, meanwhile, The Cobblestone vies with laidback gastropub Bonobo for the honour of the best pub in Smithfield.

Dublin also has a roaring alcohol-free nightlife, with new spaces proliferating, and established cafés extending their opening hours. Pop in to Le Petit Perroquet, on Wicklow Street. There’s also Lemon Jelly Café, in the Italian Quarter, on the Millennium Walkway.

The suburbs are where some of the best late-night cafés are, really – Bread and Butter, in Drumcondra; Nick’s Coffee, in Ranelagh; and Tasty 8, on Meath Street. For daytime lounging, try The Fumbally café in The Liberties; The Morning, in Portobello; or Two Boys Brew in Phibsborough, where you can have hearty lunches and breakfasts alongside your coffee.

MUSIC AND ARTS

The Music Café, on Wellington Quay, meanwhile, stays open until 10.30pm, and a chilled music venue turns into a nice wine bar in the evening. There’s also an increasing supply of conscious nights out, from booze free drinking and wellbeing at The Virgin Mary Bar on Capel Street –Ireland’s first alcohol-free pub – to the Dublin Buddhist Centre’s drop-in meditation, film screenings and writing workshops, to sound baths, dark moon circles and breathwork at The Space Between, on Fenian Street.

There are also a variety of offerings centred around the Dublin City Council’s arts space, the LAB Gallery. Anywhere you are in Dublin, you’re not far from a new gallery or funky installation.

And then, there’s Escape Dublin, whereby you and friends can work out how to solve puzzles and get out of a mock prison within a certain timeframe. The Escape Boats, at Grand Canal Dock, were early pioneers of this worldwide phenomenon, while Escape, on Aungier Street, is quite popular too.

‘A Pint Of Plain Is Your Only Man’ wrote Myles na gCopaleen, and for most people, visiting a Dublin pub is part of the Irish experience. Yet, at the risk of outparodying Alan Partridge, there’s more to Ireland than that these days, with coffee, arts and even meditation to explore. See you out there!

READY TO EXPLORE A LITTLE FURTHER?

ALTHOUGH DUBLIN HAS MORE THAN ENOUGH TO KEEP YOU BUSY, A JOURNEY FURTHER AFIELD CAN MAKE FOR AN EXCITING NEW ADVENTURE

With the Irish Sea coast stretching in either direction, mountains merging with the city’s southern suburbs, and historic centres just a short train or motorway trip away, Dublin makes the perfect base for exploring Ireland’s Ancient East.

Aside from Glendalough, Wicklow also has Powerscourt Gardens and waterfall, and excellent climbing in the Wicklow Mountains National Park. The historic centre of Kilkenny city, with its magnificent Norman castle, city walls and cathedrals, is a historic treasure trove. Don’t miss a trip to Rothe House and Garden where you are invited to wander and explore at your leisure; view the magnificent architecture, step through cobbled courtyards and take in the relaxed atmosphere of the restored walled garden.

Of course, to get the full taste of Ireland outside Dublin, make a beeline for Cork. The capital of the rebel county is the starting point for those wishing to explore West Cork and Kerry and Ireland’s most breathtaking scenery.

To the northwest of Dublin stands a marvel: Newgrange. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Neothilic monument comprises a large cairn of earth and stone, topped with grass and walled with large cobbles and flat white quartz stone.

THE GREAT PYRAMID

At 5,000 years old, it’s older the Great Pyramid of Giza. The exterior restoration work has not pleased all archaeologists, however, with one commentator describing it as “kind of like Stalin does the Stone Age”. The interior is nevertheless worth the visit.

Newgrange inner chamber is designed to light up via natural light only on the dawn of the winter solstice (December 21). Tickets on this date are like gold dust. On busy summer days, get there early – if you drive yourself, you will need to join an official guided tour in order to gain entry to the passage tomb.

Newgrange is just one part of the Brú na Boinne complex of Boyne Valley tombs, with over 90 monuments littering the landscape in an archaeological ensemble. Knowth and Dowth, the next two most famous, are well worth a visit.

The area’s prehistoric significance is palpable. Just 25km from Newgrange lies the Hill of Tara, ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland – and possible a seat of power for the pre-Milesian Tuatha Dé Danann. It is more accessible than Newgrange and contains the magical Stone of Destiny.

The Mound of Hostages has a short passage aligned with sunrise on these cross-quarter days (solstices and equinoxes), marked by ancient annual festivals in olden times.

“THE CAPITAL OF THE REBEL COUNTY IS THE STARTING POINT FOR THOSE WISHING TO EXPLORE WEST CORK AND KERRY AND IRELAND’S MOST BREATHTAKING SCENERY”

To complete the history tour of Meath, visit Trim Castle, site of many a Braveheart scene, and, for something different, Emerald Park – amusements and wildlife in one place. Slightly south lies the horse country of Kildare, home of the K Club hotel, Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre, Kildare Village designer shopping outlet and Donadea Forest Park.

If you want to experience wild Ireland, meanwhile, board a bus for the Cliffs of Moher, far on Ireland’s western Atlantic shoreline. Many tourists return on the same day, much to the bemusement of Dubliners. Clare is beautiful, and worth thorough exploration, not least of the Burren, its limestone moonscape and the many surfing beaches along its edge.